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[Painting Miniatures] vs the unending tide of grey plastic

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Posts

  • ArthilArthil Registered User regular
    You'd just use greenstuff to patch up the gaps when doing pose conversions, yeah?

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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Arthil wrote: »
    You'd just use greenstuff to patch up the gaps when doing pose conversions, yeah?

    Yeah... cutting through some of the spots means I'd have to sculpt bits of armor, which is way out of my skill zone.

    As it is, the cuts I've made don't really have any serious gaps.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    They won't snag me a golden demon or anything, but I'm pretty proud of my first Squad of Pallid Hand marines. First mini's I've finished since getting back into the hobby.

    (And now I notice I missed a horn on the champion :lol: )

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    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Now I need to learn how to base them.

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  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    You actually painted them, which makes them better than at least half the other armies out there.

    - IMPORTANT ALERT -

    If you have a bunch of your painted work saved on an iPhone with the ‘memories’ function under photos, click that thing immediately. It does a big musical sweeping vignette of your painting history. It’s pretty great!

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    KhraulElvenshae
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Now I need to learn how to base them.

    Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!

    Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.

    A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.

    Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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  • KetBraKetBra FISTS OF JUST ICE! Registered User regular
    Hey so my plan is to snag my old space marine army from my parents house the next time I see them.

    However, I painted that army when I was like 13, so I would like to redo it all. What are the best/easiest ways to strip paint off of models. Also, are there any good non-spray primers? I live in an apartment and spray-painting in the middle of winter when I can't open windows much seems like a bad idea.

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    Steam Bnet:KetBra#1692
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    For stripping, I hear Simple Green is the US equivalent to Dettol, soak the models in it for a few hours and then give it a scrub with an old toothbrush.

    I've found that methylated spirits are more effective, cheaper, produces less of a pervasive smell and cleans up with the same toothbrush method.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    I use isopropyl alcohol
    It does strip a lot better than I thought and works on plastic models
    I use a toothbrush to clean up after still like I said I was surprised it stripped an Aeldari autarch caked in paint {it was gross}

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    KetBra
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    Kneel wrote: »
    A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.

    Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.

    ...STATIC grass?
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    DocSamsonArcticLancerElvenshaeKhraulNipsSmokeStacksLanlaornKneelIanatorwebguy20
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    The tip I heard ages ago (and used to good effect) was to blow on it afterwards to help it stand up. This might be a more effective tactic for bases where rubbing a balloon would be difficult. :p

  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Kneel wrote: »
    Khraul wrote: »
    Now I need to learn how to base them.

    Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!

    Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.

    A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.

    Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.

    I wondered how people did that... I just imagined tweezers and a lot of patience

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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    Elvenshae
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Kneel wrote: »
    Khraul wrote: »
    Now I need to learn how to base them.

    Basing is ridiculously easy once you start. Chunks/sheets of cork and/or basing ballast can be glued on and drybrushed, then you can add patches of tuft grass or static grass. Or both!

    Honestly, there's very little 'learning' for straightforward, Citadel Box Art-level basing. It's quick, easy and requires only that you pick up a few cheap supplies. It might also be helpful to have the miniature either loosely attached to the intended base, or pinned to cork, so you can work on the base separately.

    A tip for static grass: once you've put down some PVA and placed a wad of grass on it, rub an inflated balloon on your shirt and hold it above the grass (repeat a few times) to get the grass to stand up straight.

    Or invest in one of those charged dispenser thingies.

    I wondered how people did that... I just imagined tweezers and a lot of patience

    I'm trying to picture that and it's hilarious.

    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
    3EnCIQg.jpg
    ElvenshaeNipsKhraul
  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    I saw a video clip on Instagram a day or two ago of someone trimming the static grass on the base of a bloodbowl player with nail scissors, i think
    Gotta get that regulation pitch length!

    ElvenshaeKhraulNipsArthilstopgap
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    edited March 10
    Just bought the Primaris half of DM, and one of the Inceptor jump packs, the vanes were folded over. Folding them back will break them completely.

    Any ideas how to repair them?

    valhalla130 on
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    You can bend and reconfigure plastic using the hot/cold water trick that’s done with resin, it just takes a little longer.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Unnnh, they're pretty much broken in half and hanging by a thread. There is no bending these back. Right at the point where the vanes joins the jump pack.

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Probably have to just snap them off, file down the jagged ends for a clean fit, and plastic glue then back on then.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
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  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Forgive what is almost a duplicate post, but updated turnaround~

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    BetsuniKhraulNipsInquisitorKetBrahonovereWatcherIanatorElvenshaeDayspringDiannaoChongTheColonelTacoForcestopgap
  • webguy20webguy20 Registered User regular
    Oh yea that looks a lot better. That model is just amazing all around.

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  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    Probably have to just snap them off, file down the jagged ends for a clean fit, and plastic glue then back on then.

    You can also obtain plastic rod of a suitable diameter from a hobby shop to re-create the hinges if you want. It would need some careful filing work to “bury” them in the join enough but nothing too arduous.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Tried out gw leadbelcher airpaint today...

    ...s'pretty good

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • TIFunkaliciousTIFunkalicious Kicking back in NebraskaRegistered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Tried out gw leadbelcher airpaint today...

    ...s'pretty good

    That's good to hear because I bought some about 2 hours ago. I was starting on some Iron Warriors tanks this weekend

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    I had to hairbrush a bunch of Iron Warriors awhile back, and yeah airbrush type metallics no question. Thinning regular chunky metals is a pain without the right mediums on hand.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Is there a reasonable way to get the plaguespitters and fans off my foetid bloat drones without breaking them and in such a way I can reattach them?

    I build these bad boys so I could play with them ASAP, but having gotten an airbrush since I'm regretting not being able to spray individual components during assembly.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Tried out gw leadbelcher airpaint today...

    ...s'pretty good

    That's good to hear because I bought some about 2 hours ago. I was starting on some Iron Warriors tanks this weekend

    It was still just a tiny bit cloggy and I ended up thinning it a bit more. Only a couple of drops of thinner and it ran pretty smooth.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • MazzyxMazzyx I can dig it. Registered User regular
    Started painting my Tzeentch army for AoS (with cross over to 40k).

    Test Tzaangors....

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    And my test Chaos Warrior using the Robot's Thousand Son style of painting.

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    ElvenshaeNytewarriorKhraulBetsuniNipsDiannaoChong
  • KneelKneel Registered User regular
    Finished up on Friday, but didn't get around to breaking the lightbox out until half an hour ago.

    AM Leman Russ and GSC Leman Russ/Chimera done.

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    Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
    Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
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  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    The new Morathi kit is really cool, though the big monster version looks a little more annoying to paint, I hate big wings...

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    Not too sold on the basing yet, probably need to put some more work into that.



    ArthilNipsNytewarriorBetsuniBadablackArcticLancerMazzyxDiannaoChongWatcherDayspringIanatorFroThulhuBurnageElvenshaeTheColonelKoregTacoForce
  • NipsNips In constant existential crisis.Registered User regular
    That model is amazing, but maybe this is my newfound feminism showing:

    High heels? Really?

    I wouldn't have even noticed, had you not said something about the base. X_x

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
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  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    In all fairness a cult of acrobatic murder elves obsessed with knives? What else would they wear but stilettos.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
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  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    Most of the Witch Aelves are actually in flats, though, granted, they are flat-heeled thigh-high boots, so not exactly ideal. Only Morathi and the Slaughter Queens get heels I think. On the flip side they are pretty killer heels, and it's not exactly against her character to go for impractical aesthetic appeal (plus this form is just a diplomatic glamour/illusion, and her true form definitely doesn't have heels on, on account of being a giant snake lady).



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  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    I always forget how spoiled I am by GW plastics until I work on a random pewter model again:

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    Now for it to stop raining so I can prime him.

    NipsDiannaoChongArthilElvenshaeBetsuniKhraul
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    that looks like a fucking nightmare to assemble. Pins for days?

    Elvenshaehonovere
  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    J wrote: »
    that looks like a fucking nightmare to assemble. Pins for days?

    Pins, super glue and two part epoxy strong enough to attach metal electrical boxes to concrete.

    This is why when your friend says “hey you can paint a lich for our DnD game yeah?” You should ask to see the model before you say yes.

    That said those flowing robes should be really fun to paint.

    DiannaoChongNips
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    Inquisitor wrote: »
    J wrote: »
    that looks like a fucking nightmare to assemble. Pins for days?

    Pins, super glue and two part epoxy strong enough to attach metal electrical boxes to concrete.

    This is why when your friend says “hey you can paint a lich for our DnD game yeah?” You should ask to see the model before you say yes.

    That said those flowing robes should be really fun to paint.

    Just show up with one of these and say you upgraded him.

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  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    It’s funny to me that Nagash probably would have been easier to build because modern GW plastics.

  • MagicPrimeMagicPrime FiresideWizard Registered User regular
    Can anyone PM me a link to a good 'starter' set for paints and stuff to try getting into this?

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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Reaper's Learn to Paint kit is a good bet: minis, paints, brushes, and instructions.

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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    MagicPrime wrote: »
    Can anyone PM me a link to a good 'starter' set for paints and stuff to try getting into this?

    I'm currently trying to get a friend into the hobby so I was looking at options:
    GW makes a kit that includes sprue cutters (If you cut things from sprues, you need this). It runs around 30$ and comes with micro paint containers of a wide selection of colors. However I think a lot of people here don't like those because they could be dried out when you get them?

    Reaper learn to paint's are about 30$ on amazon, come with a paintbrush(meh) and mini(meh), and a good set of paints to use. I like reaper paints, but they come out matte, and I dislike their metallics. It also comes with a carrying case, I store extra bottles in mine, its nice but not a reason to buy it unless you are going to be transporting paint a lot?

    Some other stuff to think about getting:
    -brushes, I'll let someone more versed talk about brushes. You don't need anything hyper expensive to start, but I recommend finding something besides cheap craft store brushes. "Miniature brush" on amazon will just get you brushes with shorter handles(beware). In general sizes, you should at least have a size 2 and 0 acrylic brush, there are a lot of brands to choose from for the hobby that are reasonable.
    -I would get a wet or dry pallet (dont paint straight from the pot, you need to thin the paints)
    -get a sprue cutter if the line of mini's uses sprues
    -hobby knife for cleaning minis, mold lines, and cutting. Dont sprue cut with these. It's just harder and more dangerous, just please get the sprue cutter.
    -have a crappy set of brushes for things like glue or other 'dirty' work if you need
    -get brush soap a 6$ container will last years of serious painting, the priority here is iffy, but its a solid investment, especially if you really start buying more brushes
    -primer is important, you can start with just a matte black/white spray paint(1$ at walmart). You can also get brush on, or model specific primer spray paints that are outrageously priced but are pretty good.
    -Wash/shade Paint kits generally don't include these, they cost about the same as a container of paint usually, and will really help up your game painting wise. Getting both a black and a brown wash can carry you for a long time
    -medium/drying retardant I consider this low priority, you can use this to thin paints, but if you get a bottle of filtered water that will work mostly fine. It has multiple uses but you do not need it to start out.

    Paint can really put a hurt on you cost wise to start. If you are painting something super specific, I'd recommend you just try and grab the paints you need, and build up your range over time to ease the burden. If you have friends who paint, empty dropper bottles and funnels and doing a 'paint trade/swap' might be the right route to go. I'd rather a friend get into the hobby and use some of my paint, rather than balk at needing 70$ of paint to paint his incomplete $200 army. The paint will last a lot longer than just those models, but it just gets very pricey up front IMO.

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