Rick Dias is an excellent choice too, though you should also check out the Dom R35 from build fighters
@Bluedude152 Wait, you need it to be bigger than 1/144th to add an eye-light, correct? If stuff like HGUC is viable, then there's all sorts of Doms and Dias' you could pick from (R35 from Build fighters is pretty neat), I was just assuming you'd want a Master Grade or something of similar scale (1/100th).
I think I want to try lighting up a Dom, any suggestions of a model? There are like 15 variants
Dom Funf/Tropen for the win!
Edit: It looks like there are only MG kits for the basic Dom, and the Rick Dom in standard or Char color schemes (plus some special release versions with slightly different colors), so I guess the questions you need to decide are how you feel about rose red vs violet, and whether you want a ground-pounder or a space-case?
Just get both. You can't go wrong with the best Zeon grunt suit.
Amazon’s Gunpla prices have gone up quite a bit this year
It's cyclical. Amazon themselves don't carry a lot of Gunpla, so it's mostly third parties. You'll see huge variations in price, especially right after a kit is reprinted.
They also tend to be marked up a whole lot right after release, especially once the first batch the third party sellers get sells out.
The A-Z gundam was going for $30 last time I looked.
They get marked up until 6 weeks after release, which coincidentally is the amount of time it takes to ship something by seat from Japan to the US (and clear customs).
Alternatively, Hobbylink Japan is an english-language exporter based in Japan that I had great experiences with back when I could afford to go ham on buying gunpla. They've got it in stock and on sale for about US$10 (~$16 normally).
There are ones on ebay for like double the cost tho
@Bluedude152 the seller Toy Shop Japan Hobbyone on Amazon has some for $17. It's who I use and I've never had trouble with them. They get stuff to me from Japan standard shipping in like a week and a half.
I can give a +1 for Toy Shop Hobby Japan, I've bought around a dozen kits from them. Delivery has always been at or under the predicted date. I bought the MG Psycho Gundam from them on a Monday and had it that Friday.
TonkkaSome one in the club tonightHas stolen my ideas.Registered Userregular
I'm already seeing what mistakes I've made so far, and how to correct them not only in the future, but as I work on the Astaroth. I am so very happy that i took my time and made sure I was prepared to start with instead of just jumping in headfirst and then quitting when my lack of foresight made things too frustrating.
I like the first Dom picture, because big spiky shields on robots is a good look.
+1
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
Gonna have to vote Tropen, here. Love the shield on the bazooka, and the extra magazine. Plus, the external turbine intakes for the hover-jets is a little bit of real-robot detail I always really appreciated.
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Minor question:
Does anyone here glue together their kits? If so, what kind of glue do you use?
As I'm cleaning/organizing my overall collection (see the D&D Chat thread for my woes with that), I want to go back through my high-end models and glue them finally, maybe even paint them. I definitely want to improve their overall durability. But I don't know if there is a specific type of glue I should be using.
Back when I did modeling as a kid, I used plastic cement. For my more recent miniatures, I picked up a bottle of loctite squeezable gel super glue, that seems to work pretty well. I just don't know if any one type is better than another.
Does anyone here glue together their kits? If so, what kind of glue do you use?
As I'm cleaning/organizing my overall collection (see the D&D Chat thread for my woes with that), I want to go back through my high-end models and glue them finally, maybe even paint them. I definitely want to improve their overall durability. But I don't know if there is a specific type of glue I should be using.
Back when I did modeling as a kid, I used plastic cement. For my more recent miniatures, I picked up a bottle of loctite squeezable gel super glue, that seems to work pretty well. I just don't know if any one type is better than another.
I've only used glue very in frequently and only on very small pieces that popped of frequently. Also on plastic ball joints. I'd put a very thin layer of glue onto the ball and let it try to tighten up some joints.
Does anyone here glue together their kits? If so, what kind of glue do you use?
As I'm cleaning/organizing my overall collection (see the D&D Chat thread for my woes with that), I want to go back through my high-end models and glue them finally, maybe even paint them. I definitely want to improve their overall durability. But I don't know if there is a specific type of glue I should be using.
Back when I did modeling as a kid, I used plastic cement. For my more recent miniatures, I picked up a bottle of loctite squeezable gel super glue, that seems to work pretty well. I just don't know if any one type is better than another.
I don't lock down entire kits, but I'll use tamiya thin cement on some parts if things aren't staying put like they should.
I glue everything, using different types of glue depending on the application.
Plastic cement is what I use nearly 98% of time. Think of this stuff as welding pieces together, because it briefly breaks up the chemical bonds of the plastic, and as it dries the pieces become one single piece. I primarily use this inside parts, doing a light application where "female" and "male" parts meet. (Side note: are there better terms than these?) Some folks will line the edges of parts together to make them appear more seamless, for example where the left and right sides of a lower arm join. I consider this too tricky to do in most cases, as it's very easy to put too much cement in there and have it spill out when joining. One word of caution: as the plastic melts together, pay particular attention to thin parts, and especially to joining two parts of different colors. I've had the red coloring of a chin piece bleed through a face plate before.
Other glues include cyanoacrylate (CA, "super glue") which bonds nearly instantly, though tends to be brittle, and epoxies, which are way overkill for gunpla and are really intended to support far heavier loads. I basically never use CA on gunpla at all.
I glue everything, using different types of glue depending on the application.
Plastic cement is what I use nearly 98% of time. Think of this stuff as welding pieces together, because it briefly breaks up the chemical bonds of the plastic, and as it dries the pieces become one single piece. I primarily use this inside parts, doing a light application where "female" and "male" parts meet. (Side note: are there better terms than these?) Some folks will line the edges of parts together to make them appear more seamless, for example where the left and right sides of a lower arm join. I consider this too tricky to do in most cases, as it's very easy to put too much cement in there and have it spill out when joining. One word of caution: as the plastic melts together, pay particular attention to thin parts, and especially to joining two parts of different colors. I've had the red coloring of a chin piece bleed through a face plate before.
Other glues include cyanoacrylate (CA, "super glue") which bonds nearly instantly, though tends to be brittle, and epoxies, which are way overkill for gunpla and are really intended to support far heavier loads. I basically never use CA on gunpla at all.
Do you have a brand of plastic cement you prefer? I was looking at supplies today and I saw Citadel has a brand of plastic glue, but I don't know if it is the same time. I also saw people talking about other brands, and thickness, and such like that.
I glue everything, using different types of glue depending on the application.
Plastic cement is what I use nearly 98% of time. Think of this stuff as welding pieces together, because it briefly breaks up the chemical bonds of the plastic, and as it dries the pieces become one single piece. I primarily use this inside parts, doing a light application where "female" and "male" parts meet. (Side note: are there better terms than these?) Some folks will line the edges of parts together to make them appear more seamless, for example where the left and right sides of a lower arm join. I consider this too tricky to do in most cases, as it's very easy to put too much cement in there and have it spill out when joining. One word of caution: as the plastic melts together, pay particular attention to thin parts, and especially to joining two parts of different colors. I've had the red coloring of a chin piece bleed through a face plate before.
Other glues include cyanoacrylate (CA, "super glue") which bonds nearly instantly, though tends to be brittle, and epoxies, which are way overkill for gunpla and are really intended to support far heavier loads. I basically never use CA on gunpla at all.
Do you have a brand of plastic cement you prefer? I was looking at supplies today and I saw Citadel has a brand of plastic glue, but I don't know if it is the same time. I also saw people talking about other brands, and thickness, and such like that.
Tamiya Extra Think Cement. About $4 a bottle at Hobby Lobby.
0
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
... Extra Thin, you mean?
Cool.
Now I just need to find a good source of transforming Macross models.
Posts
@Bluedude152 Wait, you need it to be bigger than 1/144th to add an eye-light, correct? If stuff like HGUC is viable, then there's all sorts of Doms and Dias' you could pick from (R35 from Build fighters is pretty neat), I was just assuming you'd want a Master Grade or something of similar scale (1/100th).
Just get both. You can't go wrong with the best Zeon grunt suit.
What do people do with their gunpla
Im uh
Running out of room in my shelf
Should I just out the boring ones in storage?
More shelving.
Why is Dom r35 hard to find
There doesnt seem to be any american sellers
There are ones on ebay for like double the cost tho
Based on comments from the previous page, it sounds like if you wait a bit that might go back down?
Alternatively, Hobbylink Japan is an english-language exporter based in Japan that I had great experiences with back when I could afford to go ham on buying gunpla. They've got it in stock and on sale for about US$10 (~$16 normally).
@Bluedude152 the seller Toy Shop Japan Hobbyone on Amazon has some for $17. It's who I use and I've never had trouble with them. They get stuff to me from Japan standard shipping in like a week and a half.
Edit: Lol what do you know they have a cheap one, its just the one thats even older than the 2001 one
Do I get
RICK DIAS
DOM r35 painted in regular dom colors
DOM TROPEN
Dreissen
I have this mental distinction between "gunpla where the shoulder pegs are part of the torso" and "gunpla with full polycap shoulders"
Steam
Does anyone here glue together their kits? If so, what kind of glue do you use?
As I'm cleaning/organizing my overall collection (see the D&D Chat thread for my woes with that), I want to go back through my high-end models and glue them finally, maybe even paint them. I definitely want to improve their overall durability. But I don't know if there is a specific type of glue I should be using.
Back when I did modeling as a kid, I used plastic cement. For my more recent miniatures, I picked up a bottle of loctite squeezable gel super glue, that seems to work pretty well. I just don't know if any one type is better than another.
me in five years
I've only used glue very in frequently and only on very small pieces that popped of frequently. Also on plastic ball joints. I'd put a very thin layer of glue onto the ball and let it try to tighten up some joints.
Now I just use gorilla super glue.
I don't lock down entire kits, but I'll use tamiya thin cement on some parts if things aren't staying put like they should.
Plastic cement is what I use nearly 98% of time. Think of this stuff as welding pieces together, because it briefly breaks up the chemical bonds of the plastic, and as it dries the pieces become one single piece. I primarily use this inside parts, doing a light application where "female" and "male" parts meet. (Side note: are there better terms than these?) Some folks will line the edges of parts together to make them appear more seamless, for example where the left and right sides of a lower arm join. I consider this too tricky to do in most cases, as it's very easy to put too much cement in there and have it spill out when joining. One word of caution: as the plastic melts together, pay particular attention to thin parts, and especially to joining two parts of different colors. I've had the red coloring of a chin piece bleed through a face plate before.
Other glues include cyanoacrylate (CA, "super glue") which bonds nearly instantly, though tends to be brittle, and epoxies, which are way overkill for gunpla and are really intended to support far heavier loads. I basically never use CA on gunpla at all.
Ive been doing some research because I want to do some heavy modding
Have a guide for a movable monoeye!
EDIT: Welp, now I am watching videos on how to do that.
The light should travel right up that shaft
:winky:
Do you have a brand of plastic cement you prefer? I was looking at supplies today and I saw Citadel has a brand of plastic glue, but I don't know if it is the same time. I also saw people talking about other brands, and thickness, and such like that.
Tamiya Extra Think Cement. About $4 a bottle at Hobby Lobby.
Cool.
Now I just need to find a good source of transforming Macross models.
You and me both. Good luck with that.