In case y’all were wondering 9mm 124+p does have enough STOPPIN POWAH to hunt gophers in the yard
But I would have preferred to use my .22 victory cause that shit was loud
Drinking coffee on the porch and I start seeing grass be disturbed and eventually a little head breaches and then I had to stalk the sow for two hours. Very successful hunt.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
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Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
What? That can't be right! Big 9mm paying you off, are they? The internet says you NEED 45-70 if you're hunting anything bigger than a flea!
You make good choices. I picked up an rmr to put on mine. It's a stupid amount of fun
I’ve got a GSSF coupon I want to use on a 34 MOS and would like to put an RMR or delta point on and basically saving for that and trying to decide which would be best for me.
Reviews got me all confused with type 1 and type 2 and shit
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
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[Paragon]I'm a real doctor, for pretend!North DakotaRegistered Userregular
Dat galil tho. Handguard has to go, the rail covers on it move around too much. Going to order the Midwest Industries M-Lok handguard and call it good. Only got to put about a mag through. Good iron sights, very soft recoil. Trigger was nice out of the box. Everything ran great.
I was very tempted to get one of the old Galil kits that came up on gundeals last month but I had to save money for Christmas.
Also changed my mind on the Cerakote for the LAR308, I'm going with red for the upper and M-LOK Rail and black for the lower because I plan on building a second rifle in a couple of months on the lower I have now and doing a different lower for the upper I have now.
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WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
edited January 2019
Hello, PA gun thread.
I was both an 11B and 13B back in the day(1998-2003), but when I got out after Afghanistan and a back injury, unlike lots of vets(in my experience), I considered my time bearing arms to be over, and have never owned a firearm since. Well, drug related crime finally hit me personally too many times when my new apartment building that I moved to back in July in a safer, out of the way neighborhood got broken into and vehicles and storage closets raided. Our apartment, being on the ground floor, with windows that could be easily forced, was the kicker.
So I bought a gun.
But even when I was in the army, I was never a gun enthusiast. I knew what I needed to know about what was in our inventory, I was fantastic on the M4(with/without M203), M249(shoulder, slung, and prone fire, I carried this more than anything else), MK-19, and OK on the M2 and M240B. Was never issued a pistol, but in the field I used to borrow the medics 9mm Berettas to practice breaking down, didn't like them much. So when I decided to buy a pistol for home defense(no I don't want a shotgun shut up) I wanted something mechanically simple, cheap, and just big enough to do the job.
So yeah it's a Rock Island Armory, M200, 4-inch barrel .38 SP.
Been cleaning all of the excess shipping oil off and out of it, swabbing chambers and the barrel, and there was a moment where I was sitting on the floor just running swabs where I was like "Yep, just like old times." It's got a nice weight, the sight, while simple, is easy to snap to. The cylinder release is tight, but from what I've read it loosens up after a spell. Got a box of that mostly hollow home defense ammo, and a box of FMJ.
Coworker of mine has offered to buy me a box of target ammo and take me to the range, so yeah, that's on the schedule. Currently, it's unloaded, locked cable though a chamber, cased, tucked away in a separate spot from the ammo.
If you plan to actually use it for defense you're better off getting a small pistol safe with a bio metric lock and storing it loaded (or with the chamber under the hammer empty). If you actually have to use it it's unlikely you'll be able to unlock it, load it, and bring it into action in a timely manner. Even more so if you store it in a separate area from the ammunition.
Also the most important thing about a firearm for defensive use, more important than type of action or cartridge, is actually training with it. You are starting off right by going to the range with your coworker, but you need to also go yourself as often as you reasonably can. Even more importantly (you should know this as an 11B but this is also for the benefit of anyone else reading the thread and interested) you need to be putting in work outside of a static range shooting from the bench. You shouldn't believe the fudd lore that "revolvers don't jam", they absolutely can malfunction either from damage to parts or restriction of the hammer or cylinder (on clothing, hands etc.). You should also try to find defensive ammunition you like and train with it as well. That doesn't mean you need to fire off $200 worth of ammunition every time you go to the range, but you need to be familiar with your ammunition of choice beyond just basic marksmanship. Cheap target ammunition is going to be different than defensive ammunition in velocity therefore in felt recoil.
You also need to make sure you're training to proficiently reload quickly.
As far as choice for defensive use: a revolver in .38 isn't a bad choice. There are defensive loadings available and shot placement is more important than the cartridge (for the most part). But you're losing out on the many advantages of semi-auto pistols (higher magazine capacity, box magazines, consistent single action trigger after the initial double action shot if you're not using a striker fired pistol, more variety of cartridge choices, more variety of manufacturers, after market parts). In the last 5 or so years there have been new manufacturers like Canik (and Kel-Tec, but they've been around much longer) moving into the market to fill the exact need you have: a defensive pistol which is better in quality than a Jennings, Bryco, Raven, or Hi-Point but isn't quite as expensive as a non-blue label or police trade in Glock, Beretta, or S&W. Even the older mainstays like Ruger and S&W have released semi-auto pistols in 9x19, .40, and .45 in the $200-350 range relatively recently.
Though since you've already made your purchase now the first priority should be training. As I wrote before, it's more than just going to a static in door range and shooting at a paper target. You should also take in information about how defensive shootings actually happen, what your interaction with the law will possibly be following a defensive shooting, read the actual laws of your state regarding self defense and home defense (questions you should be asking are: does my state have Castle Doctrine? Does my state have a duty to retreat? Does my state have a duty to retreat in the home? Under what circumstances in my home can I actually fire at an assailant? If my state has Castle Doctrine or SYG when does my defensive use of lethal force become unlawful?). I would also recommend talking to a lawyer with experience in self-defense cases, many offer free consultations and may be able to tell you what to expect in the case you need to use your firearm.
So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
Personally, I'm more inclined to look into speedloaders such as HKS or similar rather than storing a pistol loaded. No offense intended and nothing personal meant, but I think suicide tends to be a more realistic danger with handguns. To each their own however, storing firearms safely rates higher to me than quick access. It sounds like you're doing as well as is reasonable for the moment.
I agree that practice and training is important if you're serious about firing guns in a defensive situation. There's a lot of mythology in self-defense culture, from the reading I've done. Actually going out and practicing with intention, looking into the legal stuff, should help alleviate some of that. I'm no expert though.
Personally, I'm more inclined to look into speedloaders such as HKS or similar rather than storing a pistol loaded. No offense intended and nothing personal meant, but I think suicide tends to be a more realistic danger with handguns. To each their own however, storing firearms safely rates higher to me than quick access. It sounds like you're doing as well as is reasonable for the moment.
I agree that practice and training is important if you're serious about firing guns in a defensive situation. There's a lot of mythology in self-defense culture, from the reading I've done. Actually going out and practicing with intention, looking into the legal stuff, should help alleviate some of that. I'm no expert though.
Looks like a reasonable little revolver.
From the statistics I've seen I think it far more likely they would be burglarized while at home than commit suicide with a firearm they didn't purchase expressly to do so with. I'll look through my bookmarks later but IIRC according to the FBI ~100k burglaries with at least one resident present during compared to 20k suicides by firearm with something like 500k attempts by all methods per year.
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WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
A biometric lockbox is on the list of things to get, it's actually required(some sort of locked storage) here now. Once I have that I'll store it loaded or with a speedloader of some sort. Just got it yesterday, so loading/firing practice etc. are all on the list of things to take care of. Also thinking of marking the front sight, maybe something visible in low light? Any suggestions on that?
A biometric lockbox is on the list of things to get, it's actually required(some sort of locked storage) here now. Once I have that I'll store it loaded or with a speedloader of some sort. Just got it yesterday, so loading/firing practice etc. are all on the list of things to take care of. Also thinking of marking the front sight, maybe something visible in low light? Any suggestions on that?
For marking a front sight post, you can go low-tech and just stick some glint tape on the front or a little higher tech and get some paint (like this). If you’re going to practice and want to save some cash you could google ‘shooting pits’ and there are bound to be some free spots around if you’re willing to make the trek with some pallets and targets. Here in WA there’s a nice one down in Olympia I typically go to for example.
A biometric lockbox is on the list of things to get, it's actually required(some sort of locked storage) here now. Once I have that I'll store it loaded or with a speedloader of some sort. Just got it yesterday, so loading/firing practice etc. are all on the list of things to take care of. Also thinking of marking the front sight, maybe something visible in low light? Any suggestions on that?
I would say you likely don't need it but if it makes you feel more comfortable training with it it doesn't hurt at all. So it's really a no lose choice. As far as what to mark it with I would go with an extremely contrasting color.
So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
A biometric lockbox is on the list of things to get, it's actually required(some sort of locked storage) here now. Once I have that I'll store it loaded or with a speedloader of some sort. Just got it yesterday, so loading/firing practice etc. are all on the list of things to take care of. Also thinking of marking the front sight, maybe something visible in low light? Any suggestions on that?
Laser and snapcaps are great for practicing trigger pull. You should be able to get a bore laser for little money, and snapcaps are super cheap. Helped me correct my tendency to pull left when squeezing the trigger.
FairchildRabbit used short words that were easy to understand, like "Hello Pooh, how about Lunch ?"Registered Userregular
Also the most important thing about a firearm for defensive use, more important than type of action or cartridge, is actually training with it. You are starting off right by going to the range with your coworker,
Agreed, but that won't be news to him as former Infantry. The longer DA pull of a revolver takes some getting used to if you've never trained with one before.
FairchildRabbit used short words that were easy to understand, like "Hello Pooh, how about Lunch ?"Registered Userregular
Does that revolver handle .38 Special +P ? That's basically the same as .357 Magnum but without all of the Magnum recoil and is highly regarded as a self-defense round.
Also the most important thing about a firearm for defensive use, more important than type of action or cartridge, is actually training with it. You are starting off right by going to the range with your coworker,
Agreed, but that won't be news to him as former Infantry. The longer DA pull of a revolver takes some getting used to if you've never trained with one before.
In my experience even combat arms types aren't guaranteed to know much about shooting and firearms aside from the 7-8 and how to field strip their issued weapon, and maybe a given crew served gun if they're a gunner on their truck. It's also helpful to point out for lurkers.
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
I don't really buy into the purist mindset on firearms so a non .45ACP 1911 is cool. I've been looking at some too contemplating getting one in 9x19 and one in .45 or 10mm.
I wasn't able to finish the lr308 before I have to go back to Texas unfortunately, the guy cerakoting for me has been deathly ill for more than a week and every body out at the port (he works with my best friend of 20ish years) have been getting sick.
I decided on a different color scheme than all burnt bronze. The upper, lower, and free float tube will be a deep red, the stock, pistol grip, safety selector, mag release, Bolt release, and pins will be black, and the barrel is a stainless steel fluted bull barrel.
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FairchildRabbit used short words that were easy to understand, like "Hello Pooh, how about Lunch ?"Registered Userregular
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
.45 is already more kick and expense than I want to deal with regularly. 10mm only enters the picture if I find myself in need of an anti-bear handgun.
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
.45 is already more kick and expense than I want to deal with regularly. 10mm only enters the picture if I find myself in need of an anti-bear handgun.
Recoil in a full sized steel frame gun isn’t going to be harsh, I’ll grant you the cost is definitely prohibitive.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
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amateurhourOne day I'll be professionalhourThe woods somewhere in TennesseeRegistered Userregular
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
.45 is already more kick and expense than I want to deal with regularly. 10mm only enters the picture if I find myself in need of an anti-bear handgun.
Recoil in a full sized steel frame gun isn’t going to be harsh, I’ll grant you the cost is definitely prohibitive.
A rock island .45 1911 doesn't have any kick to me, personally.
Now on the flip side of that a budget level plastic .40 like the Smith SDVE I can't group to save my life.
So we get stiff once in a while. So we have a little fun. What’s wrong with that? This is a free country, isn’t it? I can take my panda any place I want to. And if I wanna buy it a drink, that’s my business.
Recoil can be weird. I’ve rented 2 .45 1911’s, both full size steel guns. A Springfield TRP that was a soft shooter that I could shoot all day. The other was a S&W that began to sting my hands after a couple magazines.
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
.45 is already more kick and expense than I want to deal with regularly. 10mm only enters the picture if I find myself in need of an anti-bear handgun.
Recoil in a full sized steel frame gun isn’t going to be harsh, I’ll grant you the cost is definitely prohibitive.
A rock island .45 1911 doesn't have any kick to me, personally.
Now on the flip side of that a budget level plastic .40 like the Smith SDVE I can't group to save my life.
My SP2022 in .40 takes a magazine to remember how to shoot it properly.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
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amateurhourOne day I'll be professionalhourThe woods somewhere in TennesseeRegistered Userregular
My new job is giving me a sign-on bonus, so I figure what better to spend it on than a new gun.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
.45 is already more kick and expense than I want to deal with regularly. 10mm only enters the picture if I find myself in need of an anti-bear handgun.
Recoil in a full sized steel frame gun isn’t going to be harsh, I’ll grant you the cost is definitely prohibitive.
A rock island .45 1911 doesn't have any kick to me, personally.
Now on the flip side of that a budget level plastic .40 like the Smith SDVE I can't group to save my life.
My SP2022 in .40 takes a magazine to remember how to shoot it properly.
Honestly I think .40 was invented just to make it harder for criminals to hit what they were aiming at.
The lr308 was finished last night, finally. I will have pictures shortly. There are only two extremely minor parts issues that I need to fix but other than that it looks great. Hopefully next time I'm home I can get it out to the range.
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[Paragon]I'm a real doctor, for pretend!North DakotaRegistered Userregular
So um...I bought these, and I don't care what anyone says I love them. The He-Mag (their words not mine, I'm not that clever is my favorite) makes me smile every time I see it.
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But I would have preferred to use my .22 victory cause that shit was loud
Drinking coffee on the porch and I start seeing grass be disturbed and eventually a little head breaches and then I had to stalk the sow for two hours. Very successful hunt.
FYI, gun Jesus will bless us on Christmas Day with his G11 video.
I’ve got a GSSF coupon I want to use on a 34 MOS and would like to put an RMR or delta point on and basically saving for that and trying to decide which would be best for me.
Reviews got me all confused with type 1 and type 2 and shit
Dat galil tho. Handguard has to go, the rail covers on it move around too much. Going to order the Midwest Industries M-Lok handguard and call it good. Only got to put about a mag through. Good iron sights, very soft recoil. Trigger was nice out of the box. Everything ran great.
I really need to shoot a 7.62 (x39 and x51)
Also changed my mind on the Cerakote for the LAR308, I'm going with red for the upper and M-LOK Rail and black for the lower because I plan on building a second rifle in a couple of months on the lower I have now and doing a different lower for the upper I have now.
I was both an 11B and 13B back in the day(1998-2003), but when I got out after Afghanistan and a back injury, unlike lots of vets(in my experience), I considered my time bearing arms to be over, and have never owned a firearm since. Well, drug related crime finally hit me personally too many times when my new apartment building that I moved to back in July in a safer, out of the way neighborhood got broken into and vehicles and storage closets raided. Our apartment, being on the ground floor, with windows that could be easily forced, was the kicker.
So I bought a gun.
But even when I was in the army, I was never a gun enthusiast. I knew what I needed to know about what was in our inventory, I was fantastic on the M4(with/without M203), M249(shoulder, slung, and prone fire, I carried this more than anything else), MK-19, and OK on the M2 and M240B. Was never issued a pistol, but in the field I used to borrow the medics 9mm Berettas to practice breaking down, didn't like them much. So when I decided to buy a pistol for home defense(no I don't want a shotgun shut up) I wanted something mechanically simple, cheap, and just big enough to do the job.
So yeah it's a Rock Island Armory, M200, 4-inch barrel .38 SP.
Been cleaning all of the excess shipping oil off and out of it, swabbing chambers and the barrel, and there was a moment where I was sitting on the floor just running swabs where I was like "Yep, just like old times." It's got a nice weight, the sight, while simple, is easy to snap to. The cylinder release is tight, but from what I've read it loosens up after a spell. Got a box of that mostly hollow home defense ammo, and a box of FMJ.
Coworker of mine has offered to buy me a box of target ammo and take me to the range, so yeah, that's on the schedule. Currently, it's unloaded, locked cable though a chamber, cased, tucked away in a separate spot from the ammo.
Also the most important thing about a firearm for defensive use, more important than type of action or cartridge, is actually training with it. You are starting off right by going to the range with your coworker, but you need to also go yourself as often as you reasonably can. Even more importantly (you should know this as an 11B but this is also for the benefit of anyone else reading the thread and interested) you need to be putting in work outside of a static range shooting from the bench. You shouldn't believe the fudd lore that "revolvers don't jam", they absolutely can malfunction either from damage to parts or restriction of the hammer or cylinder (on clothing, hands etc.). You should also try to find defensive ammunition you like and train with it as well. That doesn't mean you need to fire off $200 worth of ammunition every time you go to the range, but you need to be familiar with your ammunition of choice beyond just basic marksmanship. Cheap target ammunition is going to be different than defensive ammunition in velocity therefore in felt recoil.
You also need to make sure you're training to proficiently reload quickly.
As far as choice for defensive use: a revolver in .38 isn't a bad choice. There are defensive loadings available and shot placement is more important than the cartridge (for the most part). But you're losing out on the many advantages of semi-auto pistols (higher magazine capacity, box magazines, consistent single action trigger after the initial double action shot if you're not using a striker fired pistol, more variety of cartridge choices, more variety of manufacturers, after market parts). In the last 5 or so years there have been new manufacturers like Canik (and Kel-Tec, but they've been around much longer) moving into the market to fill the exact need you have: a defensive pistol which is better in quality than a Jennings, Bryco, Raven, or Hi-Point but isn't quite as expensive as a non-blue label or police trade in Glock, Beretta, or S&W. Even the older mainstays like Ruger and S&W have released semi-auto pistols in 9x19, .40, and .45 in the $200-350 range relatively recently.
Though since you've already made your purchase now the first priority should be training. As I wrote before, it's more than just going to a static in door range and shooting at a paper target. You should also take in information about how defensive shootings actually happen, what your interaction with the law will possibly be following a defensive shooting, read the actual laws of your state regarding self defense and home defense (questions you should be asking are: does my state have Castle Doctrine? Does my state have a duty to retreat? Does my state have a duty to retreat in the home? Under what circumstances in my home can I actually fire at an assailant? If my state has Castle Doctrine or SYG when does my defensive use of lethal force become unlawful?). I would also recommend talking to a lawyer with experience in self-defense cases, many offer free consultations and may be able to tell you what to expect in the case you need to use your firearm.
I agree that practice and training is important if you're serious about firing guns in a defensive situation. There's a lot of mythology in self-defense culture, from the reading I've done. Actually going out and practicing with intention, looking into the legal stuff, should help alleviate some of that. I'm no expert though.
Looks like a reasonable little revolver.
From the statistics I've seen I think it far more likely they would be burglarized while at home than commit suicide with a firearm they didn't purchase expressly to do so with. I'll look through my bookmarks later but IIRC according to the FBI ~100k burglaries with at least one resident present during compared to 20k suicides by firearm with something like 500k attempts by all methods per year.
For marking a front sight post, you can go low-tech and just stick some glint tape on the front or a little higher tech and get some paint (like this). If you’re going to practice and want to save some cash you could google ‘shooting pits’ and there are bound to be some free spots around if you’re willing to make the trek with some pallets and targets. Here in WA there’s a nice one down in Olympia I typically go to for example.
I would say you likely don't need it but if it makes you feel more comfortable training with it it doesn't hurt at all. So it's really a no lose choice. As far as what to mark it with I would go with an extremely contrasting color.
Laser and snapcaps are great for practicing trigger pull. You should be able to get a bore laser for little money, and snapcaps are super cheap. Helped me correct my tendency to pull left when squeezing the trigger.
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Agreed, but that won't be news to him as former Infantry. The longer DA pull of a revolver takes some getting used to if you've never trained with one before.
In my experience even combat arms types aren't guaranteed to know much about shooting and firearms aside from the 7-8 and how to field strip their issued weapon, and maybe a given crew served gun if they're a gunner on their truck. It's also helpful to point out for lurkers.
I’ve got a couple polymer guns already, so I want something a little different. I’m leaning towards a 1911. I’ve rented one before and it was kind of neat, though I’m not a big fan of .45 caliber. So I’m probably gonna go for a 9mm. (I know, blasphemy.) I’m not looking at spending Wilson Combat or Nighthawk money, but that still leaves a lot of options.
Anyone got any experience with 1911’s that have any advice?
I mean, you’ve got 10mm right there. Also no experience with 1911. But I would eventually get one to round out the TWO WORLD WARS BORTHER collection
I wasn't able to finish the lr308 before I have to go back to Texas unfortunately, the guy cerakoting for me has been deathly ill for more than a week and every body out at the port (he works with my best friend of 20ish years) have been getting sick.
I decided on a different color scheme than all burnt bronze. The upper, lower, and free float tube will be a deep red, the stock, pistol grip, safety selector, mag release, Bolt release, and pins will be black, and the barrel is a stainless steel fluted bull barrel.
I have one of these: https://www.springfield-armory.com/products/1911-mil-spec-45-acp/
Very happy with it, the only gun that I've paid to be tricked out with after-market springs, guide rods, and such.
Go here: https://www.youtube.com/user/hickok45
and do a search for 1911. It it exists, Hickok has a video about it.
I traded a .308 rifle for a custom Polymer 80 19 frame with a 17 slide, silencerCo threaded barrel, and extended mag release.
Also I may have put a flashlight on it.
You went from building your own blunderbuss... to a Glock with a light. I thought I knew you, man...
Recoil in a full sized steel frame gun isn’t going to be harsh, I’ll grant you the cost is definitely prohibitive.
I did just put the finishing touches on a new .54 cal percussion rifle like five minutes ago, and ordered a new stock for the blunderbuss.
They just also share a wall with the glock and an 18.5 inch barrel adjustable ar style stock pump action 12 guage with a heat shield and ghost rings.
A rock island .45 1911 doesn't have any kick to me, personally.
Now on the flip side of that a budget level plastic .40 like the Smith SDVE I can't group to save my life.
My SP2022 in .40 takes a magazine to remember how to shoot it properly.
Honestly I think .40 was invented just to make it harder for criminals to hit what they were aiming at.