Can someone explain what the concept behind Ploymer 80s are? Like, where would you get the rest of the pistol? And isn't the frame the part that is legally the firearm in the US? So you have to technically manufacture it and cant trade it away?
The rest of the functioning firearm would be sourced from the normal array of replacement or aftermarket parts (or if you're really handy with a machine shop you could make them yourself).
Which part is legally the firearm depends on the model, basically wherever the legal inscriptions are placed. For most that will be the frame but some have it on the barrel/slide like Ruger .22 pistols.
And yes, once the frame is finished on these you can't trade that part though disassembling it and selling all the other bits would be legal.
I just didnt know there was a aftermarket for pistol parts. Well, I knew there was for like triggers and mags but not slides. I once looked at replacing my XDm slide and barrel with a shorter version but there were not a lot of options. I guess Glocks offer more after market options?
Generally home manufacture of a firearm for personal use, and not for commercial sale, is completely legal and always has been. The caveat to that is that the BATFE gets to arbitrarily decide what "in the business of manufacturing" is as there is no statutory law stating X amount of firearms per Y period is "in the business".
Polymer 80 (brand) 80% frames are based on the Glock 3rd generation handguns which are no longer patent protected. Just like any other 80% receiver, you finish the manufacture yourself and install the internal parts.
Now you can sell finished 80% firearms but they have to be serialized before you do (it's only sort of a grey area because BATFE won't explicitly state otherwise, GCA requires a serial) and you can't have manufactured for the purpose of sale i.e. "be in the business". YMMV by state whether they must be serialized when you finish them or only before you sell them.
I just didnt know there was a aftermarket for pistol parts. Well, I knew there was for like triggers and mags but not slides. I once looked at replacing my XDm slide and barrel with a shorter version but there were not a lot of options. I guess Glocks offer more after market options?
In theory, the Sig P320 was supposed to be a nearly fully modular pistol that could be instantly converted using swappable parts (only the trigger group was the regulated part because that's where the serial number was stamped) using the different grip modules, slides, and barrels. Now, I say it was modular "in theory" because nobody really bought some of the different calibers so Sig stopped making them (notably, the .45cal conversion kits).
Also, if you were a sucker and bought the P320 with a manual safety, you were pretty much SOL in terms of any modularity.
I know this because I'm a sucker.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Wooo just got my shipping confirmation. It'll be here next week so I'll be able to get my background check going sooner than later which is nice.
WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
The magazine carrier I ordered that specifically said it was for M14/M1A magazines came in and is way too small and cannot in fact fit a .308 mag in it.
Me: Don't need a new gun. Got enough calibers to worry about
Store: Hey, we got a Ruger 57 in stock.
Ughhhhhhhhh
I picked up mine a couple days ago. Considering its overall size, I was shocked at how light it is. The slide is considerably narrower than any of my other handguns (9mm, 10mm, .40), and it just feels good. Haven't taken it to the range yet...about the only thing I did was break it down and get the manufacturer grease off it. Takedown process was a bit more involved than my non-1911 handguns, but not by much (takedown lever requires a punch of some kind or tip of a .308 snapcap, and the slide isn't removed like any of my other semi-autos).
All in all, pre-range time: 8/10, would most likely buy again.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
Me: Don't need a new gun. Got enough calibers to worry about
Store: Hey, we got a Ruger 57 in stock.
Ughhhhhhhhh
I picked up mine a couple days ago. Considering its overall size, I was shocked at how light it is. The slide is considerably narrower than any of my other handguns (9mm, 10mm, .40), and it just feels good. Haven't taken it to the range yet...about the only thing I did was break it down and get the manufacturer grease off it. Takedown process was a bit more involved than my non-1911 handguns, but not by much (takedown lever requires a punch of some kind or tip of a .308 snapcap, and the slide isn't removed like any of my other semi-autos).
All in all, pre-range time: 8/10, would most likely buy again.
Have you tried using the base/foot of the mag to push the little button that frees up the takedown lever?
Me: Don't need a new gun. Got enough calibers to worry about
Store: Hey, we got a Ruger 57 in stock.
Ughhhhhhhhh
I picked up mine a couple days ago. Considering its overall size, I was shocked at how light it is. The slide is considerably narrower than any of my other handguns (9mm, 10mm, .40), and it just feels good. Haven't taken it to the range yet...about the only thing I did was break it down and get the manufacturer grease off it. Takedown process was a bit more involved than my non-1911 handguns, but not by much (takedown lever requires a punch of some kind or tip of a .308 snapcap, and the slide isn't removed like any of my other semi-autos).
All in all, pre-range time: 8/10, would most likely buy again.
Have you tried using the base/foot of the mag to push the little button that frees up the takedown lever?
I tried to figure out how to do it the way the manual said (which is the base of the magazine). The problem is that the push-in side of the takedown lever is flush with the frame. So unless you apply lateral force on the baseplate of the magazine (which I don't want to do), you're just pushing against the frame.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
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SummaryJudgmentGrab the hottest iron you can find, stride in the Tower’s front doorRegistered Userregular
edited June 2020
FN has been charging criminal prices for the FiveseveN so good on Ruger
afaik Kel-Tec's .22 WMR pistol is the one to beat though
SummaryJudgment on
Some days Blue wonders why anyone ever bothered making numbers so small; other days she supposes even infinity needs to start somewhere.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
I recall one acquaintance suggesting covering a nondescript case with stickers proclaiming how much one loves fishing over the things like instrument cases as fishing rods draw far less curiosity and attention.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
I also recommend using desiccants for ammo (and gun) storage.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
Yep I'm currently tearing down a 1911 pistol that has surface rust to to improper storage by a family member. luckily though it is widespread, it is not deep. I'll probably just take a brass pad, scrub everything down then repaint with bluing solution.
Don't make this mistake! though I am learning how to 100% tear down this gun, and will probably replace all the pins and springs while I'm in there.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
Yep I'm currently tearing down a 1911 pistol that has surface rust to to improper storage by a family member. luckily though it is widespread, it is not deep. I'll probably just take a brass pad, scrub everything down then repaint with bluing solution.
Don't make this mistake! though I am learning how to 100% tear down this gun, and will probably replace all the pins and springs while I'm in there.
It's not really a 1911 until you've done at least some minor gunsmithing on the kitchen table IMO.
The AR I ordered for $579 eight days ago is now selling for $689 from the same website. Jesus.
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
Yep I'm currently tearing down a 1911 pistol that has surface rust to to improper storage by a family member. luckily though it is widespread, it is not deep. I'll probably just take a brass pad, scrub everything down then repaint with bluing solution.
Don't make this mistake! though I am learning how to 100% tear down this gun, and will probably replace all the pins and springs while I'm in there.
It's not really a 1911 until you've done at least some minor gunsmithing on the kitchen table IMO.
The biggest challenge is it's an Italian Tanfoglio Witness so trying to find replacement parts, especially a kit, is challenging in the US.
Went to FLGS yesterday to see if they even had anything on the shelves and I finally pulled the trigger on a KelTec Sub2000
Got the 9mm Glock 17/22 mag variant. I've been wanting to build a Polymer 80 glock for a while now so this gave me the excuse.
Also looking at that black aces tactical 12 gauge lever action shotgun they've got out now. It looks fun.
I have a first gen Sub2000 I have had since 2011. It's a great little pcc.
I've also built three P80 Glock 19 size frames so far. They are great builds and building them helps you learn how the Glock (and a lot of other handguns) functions. I haven't had any major issues with mine but what I see most often is a failure to remove enough material from the guide rod channel.
I would also suggest using hand tools for the vast majority of work. You need a drill of course to drill the pins but I wouldn't use it or a dremel to try and clean out the channel completely. I used end snips to remove the tabs, drilled out a little material in the channel to get started then used a razor and files to remove the rest. Then finished everything with a high grit file and sandpaper.
A downside to P80s though is the lack of readily available holsters. You can get some good custom kydex holsters but you probably won't find a ready to ship holster from e.g. Safariland for a P80 frame.
Thanks for the info! I'm not too concerned with the construction part of it. I do a lot of fine wood and metal working so I've got the equipment (motorized and hand tools) and experience, it's mostly the horror stories. I got to reading about all of the issues with the aftermarket triggers and how they cheat the safety and I'm just not sure if I want to mess with that. If I do build one it'll probably be a mostly vanilla lower with a custom barrel and slide.
Right now I think I'm going to sell either the pre safety marlin gold trigger in 35 remington or the henry big boy in 357 and when they become available again I'm going to get a G17 gen 5 MOS and just go with a flared magwell, a taran tactical mag extension, laser stippling, a light, and RMR sights and just call it a day.
That will cover my pistol and "rifle" needs (the G17 and the sub2K) and then I just need to settle on a shotgun. I really did like that KelTec KS7. I think it was the doofy carry handle but it just feels like you're holding the Pulse Rifle from Aliens and that feels good.
j/k lol we just sent the package info to UPS so we could make a label and they could generate a tracking number, we haven't actually shipped it yet
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited June 2020
Anybody have any tips and tricks for re-bluing a pistol? I'm doing the slide and frame. Should I completely tear down the gun, then strip all the old blue off of it and then dunk in the new liquid? Or should I just sand clean the effected parts (about 25% of each part) of the surface rust and then brush on the new blue? Will it match up with the old stuff or look funny?
I have an old hand held harbor freight sand blaster that I could use to strip both parts easily once disassembled. The insides of both parts are not rusty at all and are in good shape.
Also once it's done, can I save that liquid that is leftover (if I use the dunking method), or is it contaminated?
Anybody have any tips and tricks for re-bluing a pistol? I'm doing the slide and frame. Should I completely tear down the gun, then strip all the old blue off of it and then dunk in the new liquid? Or should I just sand clean the effected parts (about 25% of each part) of the surface rust and then brush on the new blue? Will it match up with the old stuff or look funny?
I have an old hand held harbor freight sand blaster that I could use to strip both parts easily once disassembled. The insides of both parts are not rusty at all and are in good shape.
Also once it's done, can I save that liquid that is leftover (if I use the dunking method), or is it contaminated?
Don't blue it! Get it hard chrome plated, and also fit some pearl grips. And a 24k gold-plated trigger and hammer!
I scrolled past the name really quick before I read that and said, "That sounds like something Chrishallette83 would say." And low and behold 😂
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WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
Picking up the M1A after work today!
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
I think I'm going to to do a total tear down, soak the frame and slide in white vinegar, scrub down, neutralize the vinegar, heat up the steel then cold blue both parts.
WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
edited June 2020
Right? Been wanting one for almost four years. Also, had to go with an old style reproduction sling.
edit: Also it came with a reprint of the old 1963 army tech manual for the M14!
Weaver on
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WeaverWho are you?What do you want?Registered Userregular
edited June 2020
Looks like some there're some DNR spots out on the peninsula that are good for target shooting, so I'll probably be heading out there in a couple of weeks.
Weaver on
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Looks like some theirs some DNR spots out on the peninsula that are good for target shooting, so I'll probably be heading out there in a couple of weeks.
If you're ever down Oregon way and all this pandemic shit blows over you're welcome to come out to the property to shoot. Get some PA gunclub going.
I also pulled the trigger and bought one of my first frivolous gun purchases. A drum mag for the AR15. The Magpul version, which is highly regarded.
ThegreatcowLord of All BaconsWashington State - It's Wet up here innit? Registered Userregular
Got a reloading question if anyone does any of that. It's a bit on the nebulous end, and sadly I won't be able to do any more testing until I can get to a proper range for more work but here it is. Ok so I'm currently loading up rounds for a Sig716 .308 rifle. I lucked out and got a bunch of factory-second 175gr Sierra Match Kings so I started up loading up rounds with them based on some recipes recommended to me by folks.
The issue I'm running into is the following:
While the rounds shoot accurately enough, I'm getting CONSTANT failure to feeds with the rounds. Like without fail after 1-2 shots, the following round feeds about half way into the chamber and then gets stuck so hard I have to use a cleaning rod or bang the butt of the rifle on the ground to loosen it from the chamber. After several incidents of this, I went back through my batch of rounds to try and figure out what's going on.
I purchased a case gauge to make sure the round drops freely in and out of it so in theory it should pass the chamber properly. I went through all of my reloads and all pass the chamber gauge.
I should note that the 147gr and 168gr rounds chamber, feed and shoot just fine. They also all pass the chamber gauge.
I was using magpul 10 round .308 mags. The rounds were seating fine although a bit tight.
I haven't measured the OAL for them yet, but I'm thinking it's either that or the mags. Magpul mags have worked great for everything else in the past so I'm honestly not sure. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Another re-bluing question. Would it be good to spray a couple coats of matte clear coat over the finish? I've read that cold bluing isn't the most durable and I figure some matte clear might help the situation a bit. .
Based on what I know about reloading, it seems that you are on the right track.
I would assume OAL would be the culprit. Have you tried single loading? Not ideal but if you can get through more than two rounds without mortaring it that would be an indication.
I’d try current mags downloaded to half capacity. I’d try a new mag half and full capacity. I’d try loading one at a time and see if any hangups occur. And I’d measure OAL.
diablo III - beardsnbeer#1508 Mechwarrior Online - Rusty Bock
Another re-bluing question. Would it be good to spray a couple coats of matte clear coat over the finish? I've read that cold bluing isn't the most durable and I figure some matte clear might help the situation a bit. .
You'd need something that is oil, solvent and heat resistant if you do. Because it will encounter all three of those in significant amounts through normal use of the gun. Something like Brownell's aluma-hyde matte clear.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Another re-bluing question. Would it be good to spray a couple coats of matte clear coat over the finish? I've read that cold bluing isn't the most durable and I figure some matte clear might help the situation a bit. .
You'd need something that is oil, solvent and heat resistant if you do. Because it will encounter all three of those in significant amounts through normal use of the gun. Something like Brownell's aluma-hyde matte clear.
Yea I was thinking of something like a spray clear meant for automotive engine applications. I'll look into Brownell's.
Another re-bluing question. Would it be good to spray a couple coats of matte clear coat over the finish? I've read that cold bluing isn't the most durable and I figure some matte clear might help the situation a bit. .
You'd need something that is oil, solvent and heat resistant if you do. Because it will encounter all three of those in significant amounts through normal use of the gun. Something like Brownell's aluma-hyde matte clear.
Yea I was thinking of something like a spray clear meant for automotive engine applications. I'll look into Brownell's.
So I've blued or browned pretty much all of my blackpowder stuff in the past, to the point where now I just keep it at a dull bare metal and keep it routinely oiled until it builds up a patina on its own, that I sometimes hurry with homemade Peracetic acid for a unique "antiqued" look
The biggest thing about the bluing is having the right prep. You need to sand and then wet sand all the old bluing off if you want to reblue properly, and then rub the barrel down with alcohol and give it the white glove treatment.
I personally like using a garden hose with cool water to wash off the bluing after it sits for 60 seconds or so because it causes a neat ripple effect that I personally like, but to each their own there.
I don't use any kind of clear coat, just gun oil or for my primitive rifles I use lamb tallow and bees wax and/or bacon grease, which has the added effect of my first few shots out of a .54 cal muzzleloader smelling like an IHOP breakfast.
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The rest of the functioning firearm would be sourced from the normal array of replacement or aftermarket parts (or if you're really handy with a machine shop you could make them yourself).
Which part is legally the firearm depends on the model, basically wherever the legal inscriptions are placed. For most that will be the frame but some have it on the barrel/slide like Ruger .22 pistols.
And yes, once the frame is finished on these you can't trade that part though disassembling it and selling all the other bits would be legal.
Steam Profile
3DS: 3454-0268-5595 Battle.net: SteelAngel#1772
Polymer 80 (brand) 80% frames are based on the Glock 3rd generation handguns which are no longer patent protected. Just like any other 80% receiver, you finish the manufacture yourself and install the internal parts.
Now you can sell finished 80% firearms but they have to be serialized before you do (it's only sort of a grey area because BATFE won't explicitly state otherwise, GCA requires a serial) and you can't have manufactured for the purpose of sale i.e. "be in the business". YMMV by state whether they must be serialized when you finish them or only before you sell them.
In theory, the Sig P320 was supposed to be a nearly fully modular pistol that could be instantly converted using swappable parts (only the trigger group was the regulated part because that's where the serial number was stamped) using the different grip modules, slides, and barrels. Now, I say it was modular "in theory" because nobody really bought some of the different calibers so Sig stopped making them (notably, the .45cal conversion kits).
Also, if you were a sucker and bought the P320 with a manual safety, you were pretty much SOL in terms of any modularity.
I know this because I'm a sucker.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Store: Hey, we got a Ruger 57 in stock.
Ughhhhhhhhh
Selling Board Games for Medical Bills
I picked up mine a couple days ago. Considering its overall size, I was shocked at how light it is. The slide is considerably narrower than any of my other handguns (9mm, 10mm, .40), and it just feels good. Haven't taken it to the range yet...about the only thing I did was break it down and get the manufacturer grease off it. Takedown process was a bit more involved than my non-1911 handguns, but not by much (takedown lever requires a punch of some kind or tip of a .308 snapcap, and the slide isn't removed like any of my other semi-autos).
All in all, pre-range time: 8/10, would most likely buy again.
Have you tried using the base/foot of the mag to push the little button that frees up the takedown lever?
I tried to figure out how to do it the way the manual said (which is the base of the magazine). The problem is that the push-in side of the takedown lever is flush with the frame. So unless you apply lateral force on the baseplate of the magazine (which I don't want to do), you're just pushing against the frame.
afaik Kel-Tec's .22 WMR pistol is the one to beat though
Do you guys have any recommendations for cases? There are no children in my house, but just on principle something that doesn't scream "GUN INSIDE" would be ideal.
Tennis racquet cases or instrument cases are great for incognito transport. I don’t particularly care for advertising firearm ownership when I’m transporting them either.
Important note: don’t store firearms in leather holsters or soft cases (especially with foam) long term as that will absorb humidity and cause rust. By long term I mean more than three days is my rule.
I recall one acquaintance suggesting covering a nondescript case with stickers proclaiming how much one loves fishing over the things like instrument cases as fishing rods draw far less curiosity and attention.
Steam Profile
3DS: 3454-0268-5595 Battle.net: SteelAngel#1772
I also recommend using desiccants for ammo (and gun) storage.
Selling Board Games for Medical Bills
Yep I'm currently tearing down a 1911 pistol that has surface rust to to improper storage by a family member. luckily though it is widespread, it is not deep. I'll probably just take a brass pad, scrub everything down then repaint with bluing solution.
Don't make this mistake! though I am learning how to 100% tear down this gun, and will probably replace all the pins and springs while I'm in there.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
It's not really a 1911 until you've done at least some minor gunsmithing on the kitchen table IMO.
Steam Profile
3DS: 3454-0268-5595 Battle.net: SteelAngel#1772
The biggest challenge is it's an Italian Tanfoglio Witness so trying to find replacement parts, especially a kit, is challenging in the US.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Thanks for the info! I'm not too concerned with the construction part of it. I do a lot of fine wood and metal working so I've got the equipment (motorized and hand tools) and experience, it's mostly the horror stories. I got to reading about all of the issues with the aftermarket triggers and how they cheat the safety and I'm just not sure if I want to mess with that. If I do build one it'll probably be a mostly vanilla lower with a custom barrel and slide.
Right now I think I'm going to sell either the pre safety marlin gold trigger in 35 remington or the henry big boy in 357 and when they become available again I'm going to get a G17 gen 5 MOS and just go with a flared magwell, a taran tactical mag extension, laser stippling, a light, and RMR sights and just call it a day.
That will cover my pistol and "rifle" needs (the G17 and the sub2K) and then I just need to settle on a shotgun. I really did like that KelTec KS7. I think it was the doofy carry handle but it just feels like you're holding the Pulse Rifle from Aliens and that feels good.
I have an old hand held harbor freight sand blaster that I could use to strip both parts easily once disassembled. The insides of both parts are not rusty at all and are in good shape.
Also once it's done, can I save that liquid that is leftover (if I use the dunking method), or is it contaminated?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Don't blue it! Get it hard chrome plated, and also fit some pearl grips. And a 24k gold-plated trigger and hammer!
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The guy said that there were around 2100 people in line for background checks, so odds are I won't be walking out with it for a couple days.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
edit: Also it came with a reprint of the old 1963 army tech manual for the M14!
If you're ever down Oregon way and all this pandemic shit blows over you're welcome to come out to the property to shoot. Get some PA gunclub going.
I also pulled the trigger and bought one of my first frivolous gun purchases. A drum mag for the AR15. The Magpul version, which is highly regarded.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
The issue I'm running into is the following:
While the rounds shoot accurately enough, I'm getting CONSTANT failure to feeds with the rounds. Like without fail after 1-2 shots, the following round feeds about half way into the chamber and then gets stuck so hard I have to use a cleaning rod or bang the butt of the rifle on the ground to loosen it from the chamber. After several incidents of this, I went back through my batch of rounds to try and figure out what's going on.
I purchased a case gauge to make sure the round drops freely in and out of it so in theory it should pass the chamber properly. I went through all of my reloads and all pass the chamber gauge.
I should note that the 147gr and 168gr rounds chamber, feed and shoot just fine. They also all pass the chamber gauge.
I was using magpul 10 round .308 mags. The rounds were seating fine although a bit tight.
I haven't measured the OAL for them yet, but I'm thinking it's either that or the mags. Magpul mags have worked great for everything else in the past so I'm honestly not sure. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?
Wud yoo laek to lern aboot meatz? Look here!
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I would assume OAL would be the culprit. Have you tried single loading? Not ideal but if you can get through more than two rounds without mortaring it that would be an indication.
I’d try current mags downloaded to half capacity. I’d try a new mag half and full capacity. I’d try loading one at a time and see if any hangups occur. And I’d measure OAL.
You'd need something that is oil, solvent and heat resistant if you do. Because it will encounter all three of those in significant amounts through normal use of the gun. Something like Brownell's aluma-hyde matte clear.
Yea I was thinking of something like a spray clear meant for automotive engine applications. I'll look into Brownell's.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
So I've blued or browned pretty much all of my blackpowder stuff in the past, to the point where now I just keep it at a dull bare metal and keep it routinely oiled until it builds up a patina on its own, that I sometimes hurry with homemade Peracetic acid for a unique "antiqued" look
The biggest thing about the bluing is having the right prep. You need to sand and then wet sand all the old bluing off if you want to reblue properly, and then rub the barrel down with alcohol and give it the white glove treatment.
I personally like using a garden hose with cool water to wash off the bluing after it sits for 60 seconds or so because it causes a neat ripple effect that I personally like, but to each their own there.
I don't use any kind of clear coat, just gun oil or for my primitive rifles I use lamb tallow and bees wax and/or bacon grease, which has the added effect of my first few shots out of a .54 cal muzzleloader smelling like an IHOP breakfast.