A friend of mine is having me help him search for a late 80's Bronco as his second car.
Anyone have any experience with these, or know what to look out for generally speaking?
Tip:1 Avoid a Bronco from a beachside area, that saltwater will have worsened their usual minor rustiness.
Tip:2 If you can find one, get the '88 or later EFI 351 cube V8, skip the other two engine options.
Tip:3 Always check the glovebox for bloodied gloves.
4. Don't buy one that's already been lifted. They did it wrong. You will roll and die.
5. Save money for the transmission rebuild. The E4OD (I think that's what it is?) is a POS.
No rebuild. Swap it out for a Super Magnum. If you manage to bust one of those with a stock 351, it's you not the gearbox. 6 speeds and it's rated to 700 ft/lb input torque.
+1
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
This is an episode I've been waiting for.. cos I had no real idea what the numbers he was spouting meant, especially since he's using weird fractional American units for lift.
Don't even bother with centrifugal superchargers unless you are extremely limited in budget and time and a cheap Vortech bolt-on kit is all you can stretch to. They feature all the worst parts of turbocharging combined with all the worst parts of supercharging! You get the parasitic drag on the crankshaft of a positive displacement blower with all the lack of low-down torque of a large turbocharger!
Fit a modern correctly-sized turbocharger (or two if need be) for maximum efficiency, or a real mean positive-displacement supercharger for ridiculous torque and throttle response. You'll get better fuel economy and likely slightly higher peak horsepower for the same boost level with the turbo, or much more instantaneous boost response and a fatter torque curve with the positive-displacement blower.
0
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Don't even bother with centrifugal superchargers unless you are extremely limited in budget and time and a cheap Vortech bolt-on kit is all you can stretch to. They feature all the worst parts of turbocharging combined with all the worst parts of supercharging! You get the parasitic drag on the crankshaft of a positive displacement blower with all the lack of low-down torque of a large turbocharger!
Fit a modern correctly-sized turbocharger (or two if need be) for maximum efficiency, or a real mean positive-displacement supercharger for ridiculous torque and throttle response. You'll get better fuel economy and likely slightly higher peak horsepower for the same boost level with the turbo, or much more instantaneous boost response and a fatter torque curve with the positive-displacement blower.
Plus the sound of a positive-displacement supercharger paired with a big v8 is just sex on wheels right there. I know turbos nowadays are usually the better option, but there is something special about a big ol' supercharger.
Don't even bother with centrifugal superchargers unless you are extremely limited in budget and time and a cheap Vortech bolt-on kit is all you can stretch to. They feature all the worst parts of turbocharging combined with all the worst parts of supercharging! You get the parasitic drag on the crankshaft of a positive displacement blower with all the lack of low-down torque of a large turbocharger!
Fit a modern correctly-sized turbocharger (or two if need be) for maximum efficiency, or a real mean positive-displacement supercharger for ridiculous torque and throttle response. You'll get better fuel economy and likely slightly higher peak horsepower for the same boost level with the turbo, or much more instantaneous boost response and a fatter torque curve with the positive-displacement blower.
Plus the sound of a positive-displacement supercharger paired with a big v8 is just sex on wheels right there. I know turbos nowadays are usually the better option, but there is something special about a big ol' supercharger.
Especially when the exhaust is a bit muted so all you hear is engine and supercharger whine! Soooooo sex!
Don't even bother with centrifugal superchargers unless you are extremely limited in budget and time and a cheap Vortech bolt-on kit is all you can stretch to. They feature all the worst parts of turbocharging combined with all the worst parts of supercharging! You get the parasitic drag on the crankshaft of a positive displacement blower with all the lack of low-down torque of a large turbocharger!
Fit a modern correctly-sized turbocharger (or two if need be) for maximum efficiency, or a real mean positive-displacement supercharger for ridiculous torque and throttle response. You'll get better fuel economy and likely slightly higher peak horsepower for the same boost level with the turbo, or much more instantaneous boost response and a fatter torque curve with the positive-displacement blower.
Yeah that's what I was thinking based on googling them. I don't have any real world experience with a centrifugal supercharger, so figured I'd ask here
A guy at work was selling his and I didn't know a thing about it and figured there must be a reason people get them besides price. But apparently not
Thanks guys
0
Options
L Ron HowardThe duckMinnesotaRegistered Userregular
Like turbochargers, do supercharges not want/like/other adjective there to be no backpressure in the exhaust?
0
Options
BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
Supercharges operate independently of the exhaust, so the less restriction the better as far as I know.
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
0
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Like turbochargers, do supercharges not want/like/other adjective there to be no backpressure in the exhaust?
A traditional Roots-type supercharger straight doesn't give a fuck if your exhaust is restrictive or not, it's gonna pump that air in no matter what the exhaust has to say on the matter. Centrifugals are similar, but to a lesser extent, because their compressor turbine is not a positive displacement design like the Roots type, but they are belt driven from the crank too so when the engine spins up, so does the blower. So they'll turn just as hard as they would exhaust blockage or no, but the compressor design means that if it is REALLY bad, you won't be getting quite the boost levels you are supposed to. Probably not actually relevant to anyone who isn't running so much boost that they simply run zoomies, but hey, the possibility is technically there.
A turbocharger on the other hand relies on getting as much flow through the exhaust housing as possible at all times to give response and make boost, so if there is any exhaust restriction it will affect the performance of your turbo and thus your engine. Hence why one of the most common mods for any modern Japanese turbo car of the last 20 years is a drainpipe-sized exhaust. Swapping out the stock exhaust from the dump-pipe back with a properly-designed and tuned quality aftermarket exhaust can have SIGNIFICANT effects on both the boost response and the output power level of an otherwise factory stock motor like an SR20. In fact, with a JDM S15 Silvia turbo it is possible to gain an easy 25-33% increase in power on a healthy otherwise stock low-mileage motor simply by replacing the exhaust as I have already mentioned (from the dump back), fitting a good free-flowing intake and filter, and a good aftermarket front mount intercooler setup. With a boost tweak, some injectors, and a retune, you can get close to a 75% power increase at the wheels. ~300 horsepower at the wheels is no laughing matter from an internally stock SR20DET notchtop with the ball-bearing T28 factory turbo.
Obviously from that point you're looking at a VET headswap, a stroker kit, and a bigger turbo like a GTX3071R to really crank out some good streetable horsepower (like, 450 at the wheels with a nice fat torque curve), or if you're insane you go back to the S13 redtop donk, fully build the motor with stock capacity but throw a T51R Kai turbo on it and shoot for 700+ wheel horsepower.
A supercharger works on the intake, so on the exhaust side, you'd still apply all the rules for merged exhaust design (scavenging) and proper sizing that you do for a normally aspirated motor, it'll just generally be a larger diameter to account for the additional air flow through the engine the supercharger provides. While a supercharger certainly makes the engine less dependent on scavenging, if you ignore this and just stick a ginormous exhaust on the thing, you're giving up performance for no reason.
With a turbo, the turbo itself is a blockage in the exhaust, so in typical setups you can't get any low-pressure scavenging pulses pulling the exhaust gasses out of the cylinders that you get from a proper merged exhaust, instead you get high-pressure pulses reflecting off the turbine pushing the exhaust back into the cylinders. This is why twin-scroll housings work better, they separate the exhaust pipes, keeping those high-pressure pulses from affecting other cylinders thus improving efficiency. Additionally, the greater the pressure differential you can have between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the greater the efficiency of the turbo. This is why you put very large post-turbo exhaust pipes on, because the large pipe produces a larger pressure drop across the turbo than a small pipe. And because you cannot take advantage of scavenging, there is no need for small-diameter pipes to keep the exhaust velocity high either. The size of exhaust post-turbo is really a question of packaging (how big can you reasonably fit?).
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
+3
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
There are a couple of minor caveats to that:
Even on a naturally aspirated engine, exhaust design after the header collector flange has almost zero effect on cylinder scavenging. Flow restriction is the #1 bug to squash. Even then it is less important on positive displacement supercharged engines, simply because the blower is going to help push that air through whether it wants to or not. In extreme cases there really isn't even any point bothering with a collector, hence zoomies on most dragsters in the 2000+ horsepower range.
As for the pressure differential before and after the turbine wheel on a turbocharged application, that is entirely dependent on minimising flow restriction after the exhaust housing, the more restriction there is, the greater "backpressure" there is in the exhaust at that point. Every pound of boost you want the turbo to make adds at least the same amount (most modern turbos have somewhere around 74-76% efficiency) of restriction through the turbine wheel, which is why even 'header-style' (as opposed to log-style) turbo manifolds are designed with the focus much more on flow over pulse timing - you are correct that exhaust pulse scavenging really doesn't work going into a turbine wheel. Twin scroll exhaust turbine housings allow turbo manifold designers to seperate exhaust pulses that may otherwise clash in a non tuned-length manifold design to prevent restriction and cavitation before the turbo, which can in many cases significantly improve turbo performance.
Chevy's going to be offering an RST package for the Tahoe and Suburban. It's an appearance package, but it will also allow you to order a Borla exhaust and Brembo brakes on either truck.
But what's really crazy is that the Tahoe RST will also be available with the 6.2L L86 V8, which makes 430hp/460tq with the Borla exhaust. The 6.2L Tahoe RST also comes with a 10-speed auto, optional AWD, and standard magnetorheological dampers. 0-60mph comes up in 5.7s.
I generally dislike SUVs as a rule, but I have a soft spot for performance SUVs because they're so ridiculous.
0
Options
Captain Marcusnow arrives the hour of actionRegistered Userregular
edited April 2017
Car thread! I pretty much have this exact car (Saturn SC2), except with the '97 instead of the '99.
in the exact same "old people gold" color
I got it very cheaply at 80k miles and it's got about 120k on it right now. Still runs great, but on the outside it looks a lot worse than that car. I try to take it to the car wash once a month or so and that helps a bit.
Two questions-
Since the outside panels are entirely plastic, will buying the fancy paint restoration stuff and clay bars help? Or are they not going to do anything?
And is there anything I should be on the lookout for as far as things failing? I've already replaced the fluids and gotten a new valve cover/gasket and air conditioner. I'm not sure what's common for older cars, like do I need to ask my mechanic to replace all the hoses or something?
Captain Marcus on
0
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
The plastic panels are still painted with car paint, so typical car paint products will work on that paint. Just be extra careful not to overheat the panels while working on them with a polisher.
Car thread! I pretty much have this exact car (Saturn SC2), except with the '97 instead of the '99.
in the exact same "old people gold" color
I got it very cheaply at 80k miles and it's got about 120k on it right now. Still runs great, but on the outside it looks a lot worse than that car. I try to take it to the car wash once a month or so and that helps a bit.
Two questions-
Since the outside panels are entirely plastic, will buying the fancy paint restoration stuff and clay bars help? Or are they not going to do anything?
And is there anything I should be on the lookout for as far as things failing? I've already replaced the fluids and gotten a new valve cover/gasket and air conditioner. I'm not sure what's common for older cars, like do I need to ask my mechanic to replace all the hoses or something?
I have a purple 98 SL2 as a winter beater, with over 200k miles. 4 door version of the same car. They are pretty resilient little things, and parts are cheap. The only issue I've really seen to be on the lookout for is oil consumption, so check the oil every couple fill ups to make sure it's on good shape.
You don't have to replace any of this stuff, but some basic things to check:
- do the brake pads still have material?
- the radiator is mostly plastic. Check for any wet areas, especially near the transmission cooler hoses on the driver side. While you're at it, yes, check the coolant hoses and make sure they're in good shape
- check the trans fluid if it's an auto, should be pink and not brown.
- Spark plugs and wires are probably due
- Serpentine belt, if it's squeaking
Saturn S series engines have timing chains instead of timing belts, so you don't usually have to worry about changing that either.
Saturn S series engines have timing chains instead of timing belts, so you don't usually have to worry about changing that either.
I've replaced the brakes, the serpentine belt, and the spark plugs too so I guess I'm fine then. Thank you!
By the by, does that engine additive stuff you put in your gas tank or oil work? I had a friend run some Seafoam through the air intake and it ran a lot smoother, so I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do.
Captain Marcus on
0
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
edited April 2017
Seafoam does help, but with only 120k on a regularly driven vehicle I wouldn't worry about it. As long as you are doing your part in getting everything maintained and fluids changed in a timely manner it should be fine. I find seafoam usually works best on vehicles with carburetors. If the car had sat for a long time when I bought one I would probably run a seafoam treatment through the oil/gas/intake systems but otherwise nah. Regular maintenance is SO much more important in keeping a car running smooth.
I will say it worked great on my carbed ATV that had sat for a year between start ups. That was my bad right there though.
Saturn S series engines have timing chains instead of timing belts, so you don't usually have to worry about changing that either.
I've replaced the brakes, the serpentine belt, and the spark plugs too so I guess I'm fine then. Thank you!
By the by, does that engine additive stuff you put in your gas tank or oil work? I had a friend run some Seafoam through the air intake and it ran a lot smoother, so I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do.
Depends on what you want to accomplish. Some products do wondrous things, some are just snake oil.
We have Seafoam here in the shop for cleaning intakes and fuel systems, as well as a fuel stabilizer. We also have some BG products which we're fond of. I did a hot-oil flush on my wife's 2005 Murano, and it cut my oil consumption in half, and greatly reduced the timing chain rattle (timing chain tensioner is hydraulically operated by oil pressure, so they're prone to plugging with sludge).
Bottom line is, if there's a job you want to do, there's likely a product that can help, and about 10 products that will CLAIM to help (but does nothing but drain your wallet).
Between you and me, Peggy, I smoked this Juul and it did UNTHINKABLE things to my mind and body...
I've run Techron through my fueling system and carbs about a thousand miles ago, plus an emergency dash of seafoam the time that there was some nasty sludge from ethanolized gas in my tank that clogged the fuel filter
I also keep fuel treatment on hand if I need to make an emergency stop for gas at an ethanolized pump (useful for in-city driving since there are no Pure Gas pumps in the DC metro area)
car's run perfectly since so yeah no harm in the occasional fuel treatment, especially with carbs
I've run Techron through my fueling system and carbs about a thousand miles ago, plus an emergency dash of seafoam the time that there was some nasty sludge from ethanolized gas in my tank that clogged the fuel filter
I also keep fuel treatment on hand if I need to make an emergency stop for gas at an ethanolized pump (useful for in-city driving since there are no Pure Gas pumps in the DC metro area)
car's run perfectly since so yeah no harm in the occasional fuel treatment, especially with carbs
Oh yea ethanol gas and carbs are a match made in hell right there. They'll gum up so damn fast. We run premium clear (no ethanol) in all of our ATVs, lawn mowers, and anything with a small engine/2 stroke. Otherwise you're going to have the thing in the shop all the damn time getting the carbs worked on and fuel system flushed.
I do love using sea foam as a fuel stabilizer. Put it in during the last fuel up of the year and fire up the motors once every couple months until regular use and the engines will run like new.
Most quality gasoline has enough detergent/additives to keep the fuel system/valvetrain (unless it's direct injected, then the valves don't really get the benefits) of a car clean under normal use. If you're buying gas from Chevron, Shell, or another big-name gas company you're probably fine.
I've run about 4oz of Seafoam through the oil before an oil change before on my older cars and it seemed to help clean shit out of the engine. Just poured it in and ran the car for about 100 miles, then changed the oil. Putting it in the air intake can help clean out the valves and throttle body too.
0
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Most quality gasoline has enough detergent/additives to keep the fuel system/valvetrain (unless it's direct injected, then the valves don't really get the benefits) of a car clean under normal use. If you're buying gas from Chevron, Shell, or another big-name gas company you're probably fine.
I've run about 4oz of Seafoam through the oil before an oil change before on my older cars and it seemed to help clean shit out of the engine. Just poured it in and ran the car for about 100 miles, then changed the oil. Putting it in the air intake can help clean out the valves and throttle body too.
Gotta be REAL careful with air intake cleaning though so you don't accidentally hydrolock the engine. It makes an awesome smoke cloud though!
Most quality gasoline has enough detergent/additives to keep the fuel system/valvetrain (unless it's direct injected, then the valves don't really get the benefits) of a car clean under normal use. If you're buying gas from Chevron, Shell, or another big-name gas company you're probably fine.
I've run about 4oz of Seafoam through the oil before an oil change before on my older cars and it seemed to help clean shit out of the engine. Just poured it in and ran the car for about 100 miles, then changed the oil. Putting it in the air intake can help clean out the valves and throttle body too.
I just use diesel as an oil flush. Warm up your engine, stop it, add about a cup of diesel to your oil, start the motor again and run it just above idle (so like 1000 rpm) for about a minute, stop the motor, drain the oil. Replace the filter and fill with fresh oil. Job done.
I've spent too much time in fluid mechanics classes. I'm going to have to just close this thread for the moment and walk away because I know this stuff works and people do it all the time but HOLY SHIT thinking about it makes my teeth itch.
First really nice sunny day of the year, and I have the keys to a friend's NC Miata today. This thing is just silly fun. Not really "fast," but plenty entertaining enough at sub legal speeds. It's a neat change of pace from the Vette, which gets to "go directly to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200" speeds way too quickly for really spirited street use.
I don't think I'd be willing to give up the Vette for one, but I'd love to grab one as an extra toy someday. Happiest thing I've driven since my old Wrangler.
First really nice sunny day of the year, and I have the keys to a friend's NC Miata today. This thing is just silly fun. Not really "fast," but plenty entertaining enough at sub legal speeds. It's a neat change of pace from the Vette, which gets to "go directly to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200" speeds way too quickly for really spirited street use.
I don't think I'd be willing to give up the Vette for one, but I'd love to grab one as an extra toy someday. Happiest thing I've driven since my old Wrangler.
Combine the two.
0
Options
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
Leaving for a road trip to Boston Thursday night, 1500 miles or so round trip. So naturally, I came home last night to find a puddle of coolant under the Tahoe.
I'm a little baffled because the coolant is dripping from the back of the block, but I think it's the water pump, and the coolant is just running along the block to the back before dripping down. The good news at least is that the parts are available at every AutoZone nationwide because LS life.
First really nice sunny day of the year, and I have the keys to a friend's NC Miata today. This thing is just silly fun. Not really "fast," but plenty entertaining enough at sub legal speeds. It's a neat change of pace from the Vette, which gets to "go directly to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200" speeds way too quickly for really spirited street use.
I don't think I'd be willing to give up the Vette for one, but I'd love to grab one as an extra toy someday. Happiest thing I've driven since my old Wrangler.
Combine the two.
Nah, the whole charm of the Miata was it being a kind of laid back happy go lucky roadster. If I want something stupid fast I'd rather stick with the Vette than build a Miata.
Leaving for a road trip to Boston Thursday night, 1500 miles or so round trip. So naturally, I came home last night to find a puddle of coolant under the Tahoe.
I'm a little baffled because the coolant is dripping from the back of the block, but I think it's the water pump, and the coolant is just running along the block to the back before dripping down. The good news at least is that the parts are available at every AutoZone nationwide because LS life.
First really nice sunny day of the year, and I have the keys to a friend's NC Miata today. This thing is just silly fun. Not really "fast," but plenty entertaining enough at sub legal speeds. It's a neat change of pace from the Vette, which gets to "go directly to jail, do not pass go, do not collect $200" speeds way too quickly for really spirited street use.
I don't think I'd be willing to give up the Vette for one, but I'd love to grab one as an extra toy someday. Happiest thing I've driven since my old Wrangler.
Combine the two.
Nah, the whole charm of the Miata was it being a kind of laid back happy go lucky roadster. If I want something stupid fast I'd rather stick with the Vette than build a Miata.
An LS-swapped Miata is just a Miata with 3-4 times the original power output:
Posts
No rebuild. Swap it out for a Super Magnum. If you manage to bust one of those with a stock 351, it's you not the gearbox. 6 speeds and it's rated to 700 ft/lb input torque.
That's fucking sexy. Good work! (I despise Panhard bars)
Thoughts? Opinions?
I don't think that's legal!
Really just looking for a list of pros/cons, but alright
Let's go with 4.6L 3v / 5.0 Coyote Mustang, and autocross / road course
Don't even bother with centrifugal superchargers unless you are extremely limited in budget and time and a cheap Vortech bolt-on kit is all you can stretch to. They feature all the worst parts of turbocharging combined with all the worst parts of supercharging! You get the parasitic drag on the crankshaft of a positive displacement blower with all the lack of low-down torque of a large turbocharger!
Fit a modern correctly-sized turbocharger (or two if need be) for maximum efficiency, or a real mean positive-displacement supercharger for ridiculous torque and throttle response. You'll get better fuel economy and likely slightly higher peak horsepower for the same boost level with the turbo, or much more instantaneous boost response and a fatter torque curve with the positive-displacement blower.
Plus the sound of a positive-displacement supercharger paired with a big v8 is just sex on wheels right there. I know turbos nowadays are usually the better option, but there is something special about a big ol' supercharger.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Especially when the exhaust is a bit muted so all you hear is engine and supercharger whine! Soooooo sex!
God does that thing sound like Satan's vacuum.
I never finish anyth
Why supercharge a shitty Chevy V8 when you can instead rep M-division N/A V10 for totally reasonable dollars nowadays?
Yeah that's what I was thinking based on googling them. I don't have any real world experience with a centrifugal supercharger, so figured I'd ask here
A guy at work was selling his and I didn't know a thing about it and figured there must be a reason people get them besides price. But apparently not
Thanks guys
A traditional Roots-type supercharger straight doesn't give a fuck if your exhaust is restrictive or not, it's gonna pump that air in no matter what the exhaust has to say on the matter. Centrifugals are similar, but to a lesser extent, because their compressor turbine is not a positive displacement design like the Roots type, but they are belt driven from the crank too so when the engine spins up, so does the blower. So they'll turn just as hard as they would exhaust blockage or no, but the compressor design means that if it is REALLY bad, you won't be getting quite the boost levels you are supposed to. Probably not actually relevant to anyone who isn't running so much boost that they simply run zoomies, but hey, the possibility is technically there.
A turbocharger on the other hand relies on getting as much flow through the exhaust housing as possible at all times to give response and make boost, so if there is any exhaust restriction it will affect the performance of your turbo and thus your engine. Hence why one of the most common mods for any modern Japanese turbo car of the last 20 years is a drainpipe-sized exhaust. Swapping out the stock exhaust from the dump-pipe back with a properly-designed and tuned quality aftermarket exhaust can have SIGNIFICANT effects on both the boost response and the output power level of an otherwise factory stock motor like an SR20. In fact, with a JDM S15 Silvia turbo it is possible to gain an easy 25-33% increase in power on a healthy otherwise stock low-mileage motor simply by replacing the exhaust as I have already mentioned (from the dump back), fitting a good free-flowing intake and filter, and a good aftermarket front mount intercooler setup. With a boost tweak, some injectors, and a retune, you can get close to a 75% power increase at the wheels. ~300 horsepower at the wheels is no laughing matter from an internally stock SR20DET notchtop with the ball-bearing T28 factory turbo.
Obviously from that point you're looking at a VET headswap, a stroker kit, and a bigger turbo like a GTX3071R to really crank out some good streetable horsepower (like, 450 at the wheels with a nice fat torque curve), or if you're insane you go back to the S13 redtop donk, fully build the motor with stock capacity but throw a T51R Kai turbo on it and shoot for 700+ wheel horsepower.
With a turbo, the turbo itself is a blockage in the exhaust, so in typical setups you can't get any low-pressure scavenging pulses pulling the exhaust gasses out of the cylinders that you get from a proper merged exhaust, instead you get high-pressure pulses reflecting off the turbine pushing the exhaust back into the cylinders. This is why twin-scroll housings work better, they separate the exhaust pipes, keeping those high-pressure pulses from affecting other cylinders thus improving efficiency. Additionally, the greater the pressure differential you can have between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the greater the efficiency of the turbo. This is why you put very large post-turbo exhaust pipes on, because the large pipe produces a larger pressure drop across the turbo than a small pipe. And because you cannot take advantage of scavenging, there is no need for small-diameter pipes to keep the exhaust velocity high either. The size of exhaust post-turbo is really a question of packaging (how big can you reasonably fit?).
Even on a naturally aspirated engine, exhaust design after the header collector flange has almost zero effect on cylinder scavenging. Flow restriction is the #1 bug to squash. Even then it is less important on positive displacement supercharged engines, simply because the blower is going to help push that air through whether it wants to or not. In extreme cases there really isn't even any point bothering with a collector, hence zoomies on most dragsters in the 2000+ horsepower range.
As for the pressure differential before and after the turbine wheel on a turbocharged application, that is entirely dependent on minimising flow restriction after the exhaust housing, the more restriction there is, the greater "backpressure" there is in the exhaust at that point. Every pound of boost you want the turbo to make adds at least the same amount (most modern turbos have somewhere around 74-76% efficiency) of restriction through the turbine wheel, which is why even 'header-style' (as opposed to log-style) turbo manifolds are designed with the focus much more on flow over pulse timing - you are correct that exhaust pulse scavenging really doesn't work going into a turbine wheel. Twin scroll exhaust turbine housings allow turbo manifold designers to seperate exhaust pulses that may otherwise clash in a non tuned-length manifold design to prevent restriction and cavitation before the turbo, which can in many cases significantly improve turbo performance.
But what's really crazy is that the Tahoe RST will also be available with the 6.2L L86 V8, which makes 430hp/460tq with the Borla exhaust. The 6.2L Tahoe RST also comes with a 10-speed auto, optional AWD, and standard magnetorheological dampers. 0-60mph comes up in 5.7s.
I generally dislike SUVs as a rule, but I have a soft spot for performance SUVs because they're so ridiculous.
in the exact same "old people gold" color
I got it very cheaply at 80k miles and it's got about 120k on it right now. Still runs great, but on the outside it looks a lot worse than that car. I try to take it to the car wash once a month or so and that helps a bit.
Two questions-
Since the outside panels are entirely plastic, will buying the fancy paint restoration stuff and clay bars help? Or are they not going to do anything?
And is there anything I should be on the lookout for as far as things failing? I've already replaced the fluids and gotten a new valve cover/gasket and air conditioner. I'm not sure what's common for older cars, like do I need to ask my mechanic to replace all the hoses or something?
After a moment of panic, I realised what had happened: I'd parked my car at ASDA the day before, done my shopping... and walked home.
I don't think my brain has fully processed that I drive now.
I have a purple 98 SL2 as a winter beater, with over 200k miles. 4 door version of the same car. They are pretty resilient little things, and parts are cheap. The only issue I've really seen to be on the lookout for is oil consumption, so check the oil every couple fill ups to make sure it's on good shape.
You don't have to replace any of this stuff, but some basic things to check:
- do the brake pads still have material?
- the radiator is mostly plastic. Check for any wet areas, especially near the transmission cooler hoses on the driver side. While you're at it, yes, check the coolant hoses and make sure they're in good shape
- check the trans fluid if it's an auto, should be pink and not brown.
- Spark plugs and wires are probably due
- Serpentine belt, if it's squeaking
Saturn S series engines have timing chains instead of timing belts, so you don't usually have to worry about changing that either.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
By the by, does that engine additive stuff you put in your gas tank or oil work? I had a friend run some Seafoam through the air intake and it ran a lot smoother, so I'm wondering if there's anything else I can do.
I will say it worked great on my carbed ATV that had sat for a year between start ups. That was my bad right there though.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Depends on what you want to accomplish. Some products do wondrous things, some are just snake oil.
We have Seafoam here in the shop for cleaning intakes and fuel systems, as well as a fuel stabilizer. We also have some BG products which we're fond of. I did a hot-oil flush on my wife's 2005 Murano, and it cut my oil consumption in half, and greatly reduced the timing chain rattle (timing chain tensioner is hydraulically operated by oil pressure, so they're prone to plugging with sludge).
Bottom line is, if there's a job you want to do, there's likely a product that can help, and about 10 products that will CLAIM to help (but does nothing but drain your wallet).
I also keep fuel treatment on hand if I need to make an emergency stop for gas at an ethanolized pump (useful for in-city driving since there are no Pure Gas pumps in the DC metro area)
car's run perfectly since so yeah no harm in the occasional fuel treatment, especially with carbs
Oh yea ethanol gas and carbs are a match made in hell right there. They'll gum up so damn fast. We run premium clear (no ethanol) in all of our ATVs, lawn mowers, and anything with a small engine/2 stroke. Otherwise you're going to have the thing in the shop all the damn time getting the carbs worked on and fuel system flushed.
I do love using sea foam as a fuel stabilizer. Put it in during the last fuel up of the year and fire up the motors once every couple months until regular use and the engines will run like new.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I've run about 4oz of Seafoam through the oil before an oil change before on my older cars and it seemed to help clean shit out of the engine. Just poured it in and ran the car for about 100 miles, then changed the oil. Putting it in the air intake can help clean out the valves and throttle body too.
Gotta be REAL careful with air intake cleaning though so you don't accidentally hydrolock the engine. It makes an awesome smoke cloud though!
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I just use diesel as an oil flush. Warm up your engine, stop it, add about a cup of diesel to your oil, start the motor again and run it just above idle (so like 1000 rpm) for about a minute, stop the motor, drain the oil. Replace the filter and fill with fresh oil. Job done.
I don't think I'd be willing to give up the Vette for one, but I'd love to grab one as an extra toy someday. Happiest thing I've driven since my old Wrangler.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
Combine the two.
If you could get a roadworthy MX-5 here for the same kind of prices you can in the US, I'd probably have at least two of them.
I'm a little baffled because the coolant is dripping from the back of the block, but I think it's the water pump, and the coolant is just running along the block to the back before dripping down. The good news at least is that the parts are available at every AutoZone nationwide because LS life.
EDIT:
Nah, the whole charm of the Miata was it being a kind of laid back happy go lucky roadster. If I want something stupid fast I'd rather stick with the Vette than build a Miata.
You can't give someone a pirate ship in one game, and then take it back in the next game. It's rude.
An LS-swapped Miata is just a Miata with 3-4 times the original power output: