Vive is like $1200, the Rift (just the headset) is $650ish.
I wanted to get one specifically for Elite Dangerous (edit: to clarify, I use a joystick for Elite, so don't need the motion controllers as yet), and then maybe pick up the rift controllers at a later date (which are only $139 or so). So basically price...
It always feels like vive is the superior headset though.
Plus it's not facebook backed so that's a bonus in my book.
Depends on the use case. As someone who spends 3-4 hours in his doing endurance racing, I'll keep my Rift. It does have a bit worse "god rays" (that frankly I don't notice anymore), and yeah, Facebook and lack of OpenVR support...but it's lighter and a lot more comfortable for long sessions than the Vive.
In fact, this thread helped me build my current gaming rig in 2009, which I still use and has served me well.
Recently I've been looking into buying a Oculus Rift when I realized my PC is pretty dang old and doesn't appear to meet the minimum requirements. I'd kind of forgotten how old it was given that, by upgrading my video card every once in a while, it still runs new games excellently.
Here's what I got:
Motherboard: ASUS P6T X58 Deluxe ATX LGA1366 DDR3 LGA1366 3PCI-E16 PCI-E4 CrossFire SLI SATA2 SAS Motherboard
At the very least I think I need to replace this, as it's only got USB2.0, and I believe VR needs 3.0. Alternatively I suppose I could buy a PCI USB3 card?
CPU: i7 920 Quad Core Processor LGA1366 2.66GHZ - This could be a big problem. It's served me well up until now though.
RAM: Aeneon Xtune AXH860UD20-16H-K-6G 6GB 3X2GB DDR3-1600 PC3-12800 CL9-9-9 240PIN Triple Channel Kit
Only 6GB, I've read you need at least 8? Also it's DDR3, so if I upgrade the Motherboard I may need to replace the whole thing
GPU: GTX 1060. 6GB onboard memory. I think I'm ok here.
Powersupply: Corsair TX750W 750W ATX 12V 60A 24PIN ATX - I suspect this is still alright and doesn't need to be upgraded?
Save me from making poor decisions, build thread!
You could replace the i7 920 with a used Xeon. You can get a hexacore X5680 for about $100. Make sure you have the latest BIOS and you should be fine.
You also need more RAM. But you can get a 6 GB kit for about $50 or a 12 GB kit for $90.
KingofMadCows on
0
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
It always feels like vive is the superior headset though.
Plus it's not facebook backed so that's a bonus in my book.
Depends on the use case. As someone who spends 3-4 hours in his doing endurance racing, I'll keep my Rift. It does have a bit worse "god rays" (that frankly I don't notice anymore), and yeah, Facebook and lack of OpenVR support...but it's lighter and a lot more comfortable for long sessions than the Vive.
I can't wait to see the 2nd generation of these devices.
not a doctor, not a lawyer, examples I use may not be fully researched so don't take out of context plz, don't @ me
When I turn it on, it starts up for 2 or 3 seconds with no beep from the mobo and no visual. Then it turns off. Then it cycles like that forever.
The fans on the video card don't turn, but all the others do. I switched out the video card for an ancient GTX 550 Ti, and the fans on that card turn, but otherwise the behavior is the same.
I'm thinking the power supply is bad, which is strange, since it was working just fine last week. It's an old part, but it pushes 750w, so it should be fine.
I built a PC that I was planning to use as a server. The problem is that the machine will randomly switch off while idle. I haven't even set it up as a server yet, it's doing nothing when shutting down.
I tried replacing the PSU, SSD, and testing the RAM. None of those things seem to work.
I built a PC that I was planning to use as a server. The problem is that the machine will randomly switch off while idle. I haven't even set it up as a server yet, it's doing nothing when shutting down.
I tried replacing the PSU, SSD, and testing the RAM. None of those things seem to work.
Is this possibly a motherboard/CPU issue?
Stupid question: does the mobo have a power profile in the BIOS that would cause this?
So, Pc Build thread, school me on ESD and static discharge prevention while building a rig.
I ordered my parts, and it has been years since I've built an entire system, so there's a certain amount of anxiety coming with it (along the excitement!).
I read conflicting information - I am neither a physicist, nor an electrician, mind you - and some stuff seems counterintuitive to me!
One of the things I read is to install the PSU, plug it in, leave it in the "off" position and then connect one of those antistatic wristbands to your case. I know, the PSU wouldn't be connected to the parts I'm putting in yet, but it seems weird! Plus, I would have to find a metal part (?) on the Fractal R5 to clip the thing to. Hrm.
Now another long text I read was about that even that is not exactly optimal, because of the charge difference between the case...and the parts...or something? So that it's not about you being grounded as in earth-ground, but grounded relative to the case/parts charge...? (sorry if I make people cringe)
Note: I'll build the thing in the kitchen, so no carpeting, and a wooden table.
So, Pc Build thread, school me on ESD and static discharge prevention while building a rig.
I ordered my parts, and it has been years since I've built an entire system, so there's a certain amount of anxiety coming with it (along the excitement!).
I read conflicting information - I am neither a physicist, nor an electrician, mind you - and some stuff seems counterintuitive to me!
One of the things I read is to install the PSU, plug it in, leave it in the "off" position and then connect one of those antistatic wristbands to your case. I know, the PSU wouldn't be connected to the parts I'm putting in yet, but it seems weird! Plus, I would have to find a metal part (?) on the Fractal R5 to clip the thing to. Hrm.
Now another long text I read was about that even that is not exactly optimal, because of the charge difference between the case...and the parts...or something? So that it's not about you being grounded as in earth-ground, but grounded relative to the case/parts charge...? (sorry if I make people cringe)
Note: I'll build the thing in the kitchen, so no carpeting, and a wooden table.
There is not much to worry about. I've never used an anti-static band - you can just put the PSU in, plug it in, and then touch the case every so often.
I guess my baseline would be, does your house usually have a static problem? Are you constantly shocking other people in your home, and yourself on doorknobs, etc? If not, then you probably won't have any static issues while building a PC.
+2
Casually HardcoreOnce an Asshole. Trying to be better.Registered Userregular
i5-7600
H270 motherboard
8 or 16GB of RAM depending on budget.
Nice to have:
i7-7700k
Z270 motherboard
16GB RAM
If you do heavily multithreaded things (i.e. you do a lot of video encoding, rendering, etc, also worth looking at the AMD Ryzen stuff. Ryzen sacrifices about 10-15% gaming performance but is a way better general purpose processor.
I've been a heathen and assembled more than one build on the floor in a carpeted room, without a strap. No problems.
If you're in the kitchen, just try to remember to touch the faucet or something else metallic if you walk away from the table. Otherwise, you should be fine. I do recommend the PSU suggestion as a safety measure. If your cord can't reach the receptacle, make sure you use a grounded (i.e. "three prong") extension cord.
+1
Donovan PuppyfuckerA dagger in the dark isworth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered Userregular
It happens to the best of us. Not me though, that would be embarrassing.
It didn't happen to me when I built this rig in 2012, because I had seen it happen somewhere near a dozen times in earlier build threads by that point, so I triple-checked every mobo cable and connection before I tried powering my system on for the first time.
I built a PC that I was planning to use as a server. The problem is that the machine will randomly switch off while idle. I haven't even set it up as a server yet, it's doing nothing when shutting down.
I tried replacing the PSU, SSD, and testing the RAM. None of those things seem to work.
Is this possibly a motherboard/CPU issue?
Stupid question: does the mobo have a power profile in the BIOS that would cause this?
It's never been over clocked. Should i try resetting to default settings?
So, did the first cleanup of the new computer. Dust was pretty manageable, though the main intake dust filter was definitely doing its job. I also moved the AIO header plug from CPU_FAN to AIO_PUMP (the AIO is managed via USB anyways, so that's not a problem.)
connect the wrist thing to a metal part of the case, or touch said part occasionally
stop worrying and build the machine
?
Pretty much. Without getting into lots of electrical engineering, the outside of the PSU is connected to the ground that comes on the third prong of your power plug. That way if there's a short somewhere to the PSU's exterior, any electricity will flow straight to the ground and will a) trip the circuit breaker and b) keep you from shocking yourself if you touch it. You can use this same attribute to dissipate any static buildup on your person by touching the PSU exterior, or anything metal that would conduct to it, which will release any stored static to ground.
I built a PC that I was planning to use as a server. The problem is that the machine will randomly switch off while idle. I haven't even set it up as a server yet, it's doing nothing when shutting down.
I tried replacing the PSU, SSD, and testing the RAM. None of those things seem to work.
Is this possibly a motherboard/CPU issue?
Stupid question: does the mobo have a power profile in the BIOS that would cause this?
It's never been over clocked. Should i try resetting to default settings?
It's probably worth poking around at least. I've seen BIOSes in the past that have sleep/power off/extended sleep state settings and timers in there; over and above the power settings in the OS. It's a bit of a shot in the dark, but worth the simple check.
I don't think it's overheating, especially if you don't have it set up yet. Poke around the hardware for anything else obvious: cable connections loose (check the PSU connection, too, if it's modular), loose/crooked heatsinks or fans, reseat (again) the RAM and triple check that it's in all the way (also check the RAM slots to make sure nothing fell into them), move SATA cables to other connectors (especially if you have more than one SATA controller on the board).
The only other thing to do is to pick one or more of the components you suspect and move them into a known-good system.
0
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
connect the wrist thing to a metal part of the case, or touch said part occasionally
stop worrying and build the machine
?
You can just skip the wrist thing. As long as you aren't dragging your socked feet across carpet, or rubbing a balloon on your head, you're not going to generate enough static to pop a modern PC part. Just keep the PSU grounded, with the switch in the off position, and touch something metallic every so often to release any built up static.
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founders Edition Video Card
Case: Corsair - 750D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - Gaming 800W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-15 13:13 EDT-0400
Do I need extra fans or anything? It has been a while since I've put a computer together.
Don't get a Founders Edition GPU. Reference coolers are not as good as aftermarket coolers. They're for cases that don't have very good airflow. Since you're getting a nice big case with great airflow, get a card with an aftermarket cooler.
That thermal paste actually costs $5 at Newegg, the $11 is actually for a much bigger tube, which you don't need.
Trying to future proof too much is kind of pointless. We don't even know how long Intel will support the LGA 1151 socket. So don't spend too much more than what you need.
+3
Orphanerivers of redthat run to seaRegistered Userregular
edited May 2017
Hey all.
First time shopper actually looking to get a rig that can flex on all my current games and look good doing it. For various reasons, I didn't want to personally put a computer together, so a friend of mine who is more savvy hashed out a potential build with me from ibuypower:
First time shopper actually looking to get a rig that can flex on all my current games and look good doing it. For various reasons, I didn't want to personally put a computer together, so a friend of mine who is more savvy hashed out a potential build with me from ibuypower:
First time shopper actually looking to get a rig that can flex on all my current games and look good doing it. For various reasons, I didn't want to personally put a computer together, so a friend of mine who is more savvy hashed out a potential build with me from ibuypower:
Posts
Sadly, he's underestimating when you do it in Canuck funbux which he works in. Especially, once you work in the 13% sales tax.
EDIT CDN$1,149 + 13% tax = CDN$1,298
SteamID: edgruberman GOG Galaxy: EdGruberman
Plus it's not facebook backed so that's a bonus in my book.
well i'll just use this to complain about the shit cad to usd exchange rate atm.
Yeah if they were closer in price, I'd be more inclined to go for the Vive.
It's all moot anyways as I'm at least $600 CAD funbux away from being able to run either of them.
Which I guess is better than Trump Dumps we have here
Depends on the use case. As someone who spends 3-4 hours in his doing endurance racing, I'll keep my Rift. It does have a bit worse "god rays" (that frankly I don't notice anymore), and yeah, Facebook and lack of OpenVR support...but it's lighter and a lot more comfortable for long sessions than the Vive.
You could replace the i7 920 with a used Xeon. You can get a hexacore X5680 for about $100. Make sure you have the latest BIOS and you should be fine.
You also need more RAM. But you can get a 6 GB kit for about $50 or a 12 GB kit for $90.
I tell you what, I'll swap you my GTX680 for a 1080Ti, how's that?
I can't wait to see the 2nd generation of these devices.
When I turn it on, it starts up for 2 or 3 seconds with no beep from the mobo and no visual. Then it turns off. Then it cycles like that forever.
The fans on the video card don't turn, but all the others do. I switched out the video card for an ancient GTX 550 Ti, and the fans on that card turn, but otherwise the behavior is the same.
I'm thinking the power supply is bad, which is strange, since it was working just fine last week. It's an old part, but it pushes 750w, so it should be fine.
Any thoughts?
Is your ram seated down completely?
I tried replacing the PSU, SSD, and testing the RAM. None of those things seem to work.
Is this possibly a motherboard/CPU issue?
Oh my god, there is an aux cpu power cable.
That was it! Thank you so much!
That exact thing was just mentioned last page too. :P
It's been in the name of the thread before!
Your avatar fits perfectlt with this post.
Stupid question: does the mobo have a power profile in the BIOS that would cause this?
I ordered my parts, and it has been years since I've built an entire system, so there's a certain amount of anxiety coming with it (along the excitement!).
I read conflicting information - I am neither a physicist, nor an electrician, mind you - and some stuff seems counterintuitive to me!
One of the things I read is to install the PSU, plug it in, leave it in the "off" position and then connect one of those antistatic wristbands to your case. I know, the PSU wouldn't be connected to the parts I'm putting in yet, but it seems weird! Plus, I would have to find a metal part (?) on the Fractal R5 to clip the thing to. Hrm.
Now another long text I read was about that even that is not exactly optimal, because of the charge difference between the case...and the parts...or something? So that it's not about you being grounded as in earth-ground, but grounded relative to the case/parts charge...? (sorry if I make people cringe)
Note: I'll build the thing in the kitchen, so no carpeting, and a wooden table.
There is not much to worry about. I've never used an anti-static band - you can just put the PSU in, plug it in, and then touch the case every so often.
I guess my baseline would be, does your house usually have a static problem? Are you constantly shocking other people in your home, and yourself on doorknobs, etc? If not, then you probably won't have any static issues while building a PC.
Not to mention that plug is way the fuck up there and probably hidden underneath the heatsink.
I've got an H170 and it seems to be fine.
Also, an i5 6500.
If you're in the kitchen, just try to remember to touch the faucet or something else metallic if you walk away from the table. Otherwise, you should be fine. I do recommend the PSU suggestion as a safety measure. If your cord can't reach the receptacle, make sure you use a grounded (i.e. "three prong") extension cord.
It didn't happen to me when I built this rig in 2012, because I had seen it happen somewhere near a dozen times in earlier build threads by that point, so I triple-checked every mobo cable and connection before I tried powering my system on for the first time.
It's never been over clocked. Should i try resetting to default settings?
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wz3dwV/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard: Asus - STRIX Z270-E GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-2666 Memory
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB Founders Edition Video Card
Case: Corsair - 750D ATX Full Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - Gaming 800W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-05-15 13:13 EDT-0400
Do I need extra fans or anything? It has been a while since I've put a computer together.
So checklist is basically:
- put in the PSU
- plug it in, leave the switch on "off"
- connect the wrist thing to a metal part of the case, or touch said part occasionally
- stop worrying and build the machine
?Pretty much. Without getting into lots of electrical engineering, the outside of the PSU is connected to the ground that comes on the third prong of your power plug. That way if there's a short somewhere to the PSU's exterior, any electricity will flow straight to the ground and will a) trip the circuit breaker and b) keep you from shocking yourself if you touch it. You can use this same attribute to dissipate any static buildup on your person by touching the PSU exterior, or anything metal that would conduct to it, which will release any stored static to ground.
It's probably worth poking around at least. I've seen BIOSes in the past that have sleep/power off/extended sleep state settings and timers in there; over and above the power settings in the OS. It's a bit of a shot in the dark, but worth the simple check.
I don't think it's overheating, especially if you don't have it set up yet. Poke around the hardware for anything else obvious: cable connections loose (check the PSU connection, too, if it's modular), loose/crooked heatsinks or fans, reseat (again) the RAM and triple check that it's in all the way (also check the RAM slots to make sure nothing fell into them), move SATA cables to other connectors (especially if you have more than one SATA controller on the board).
The only other thing to do is to pick one or more of the components you suspect and move them into a known-good system.
You can just skip the wrist thing. As long as you aren't dragging your socked feet across carpet, or rubbing a balloon on your head, you're not going to generate enough static to pop a modern PC part. Just keep the PSU grounded, with the switch in the off position, and touch something metallic every so often to release any built up static.
Don't get a Founders Edition GPU. Reference coolers are not as good as aftermarket coolers. They're for cases that don't have very good airflow. Since you're getting a nice big case with great airflow, get a card with an aftermarket cooler.
That thermal paste actually costs $5 at Newegg, the $11 is actually for a much bigger tube, which you don't need.
Trying to future proof too much is kind of pointless. We don't even know how long Intel will support the LGA 1151 socket. So don't spend too much more than what you need.
First time shopper actually looking to get a rig that can flex on all my current games and look good doing it. For various reasons, I didn't want to personally put a computer together, so a friend of mine who is more savvy hashed out a potential build with me from ibuypower:
http://www.ibuypower.com/Store/Intel-Z270-i5-eSports-Daily-Special/W/389949
Thoughts, advice, constructive criticism? My initial budget was around $1000-1250.
Get the 6gb 1060 gpu, not the 3gb one.
done:
http://www.ibuypower.com/Store/Intel-Z270-i5-eSports-Daily-Special/W/389952
this is approaching my upper limit for what I'm comfortable paying with my current financial status, though.
You don't need a liquid cooler. A $30 air cooler is fine.
You don't need an NVMe SSD. You can get a 500GB SATA SSD for that price.
You can go for a cheaper motherboard too.