Shop around, there are a lot of PC builders. And they can actually build a computer for very close to the price of building one yourself.
For a $1000 to $1250 build. I'd expect something like this:
CPU - $240 for an i5 7600k, $220 for a Ryzen 1600, or $190 for a Ryzen 1500X
Cooler - $30 air cooler, or stock cooler for Ryzen
Motherboard - between $90 to $130 for a name brand
RAM - between $90 to $130 for 16 GB of a name brand
SSD - $150 for 500 GB
HD - $75 for 2 TB
Video card - $220 to $260 for a GTX 1060 6gb or RX 580 8gb, or $380 to $420 for a GTX 1070
Power Supply - between $60 to $100 for a 500 to 650 watt name brand
Case - $50 to $100
Windows 10 - $100
connect the wrist thing to a metal part of the case, or touch said part occasionally
stop worrying and build the machine
?
You can just skip the wrist thing. As long as you aren't dragging your socked feet across carpet, or rubbing a balloon on your head, you're not going to generate enough static to pop a modern PC part. Just keep the PSU grounded, with the switch in the off position, and touch something metallic every so often to release any built up static.
Well that's kind of what I do!
thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it. The case came today (before the rest!), and man, that R5 sure is beautiful
0
3cl1ps3I will build a labyrinth to house the cheeseRegistered Userregular
I'm going for 16GB of DDR4 in my new rig. My understanding is:
8gb-not enough
16gb-just right
32gb-overkill if you're just gaming.
DISCUSS
That sounds about right to me. 8 GB was really struggling for things like ME:A, 16 GB gives you plenty and loads of headspace, 32GB you're not going to use to play games right now.
Would it be worth making a few builds and posting them in the OP for prospective builders? Seems like we get enough questions here about basic builds that it might be worthwhile.
I'd be happy to take a whack at it, if people agree.
Shop around, there are a lot of PC builders. And they can actually build a computer for very close to the price of building one yourself.
For a $1000 to $1250 build. I'd expect something like this:
CPU - $240 for an i5 7600k, $220 for a Ryzen 1600, or $190 for a Ryzen 1500X
Cooler - $30 air cooler, or stock cooler for Ryzen
Motherboard - between $90 to $130 for a name brand
RAM - between $90 to $130 for 16 GB of a name brand
SSD - $150 for 500 GB
HD - $75 for 2 TB
Video card - $220 to $260 for a GTX 1060 6gb or RX 580 8gb, or $380 to $420 for a GTX 1070
Power Supply - between $60 to $100 for a 500 to 650 watt name brand
Case - $50 to $100
Windows 10 - $100
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited May 2017
I've been experiencing some audio stuttering. Noticed it for the first time last night while playing a blu ray and today while watching a youtube video. It's not constant, but it happens every few minutes.
Could this be my headset or motherboard, or just a driver or settings issue that can be fixed easily. I've so far just tried different usb ports for my headset and made sure audio enhancements were disabled. I really don't want to buy new hardware at the moment, so any tips would be welcome.
EDIT: After checking the youtube video I had watched earlier, I think it was the video itself with the audio stuttering. If that's the case then maybe this isn't that big a problem. I'll check some other videos and music later on my pc to see if there's stuttering.
Mine does that when I'm loading a web page and listening to music or watching a video. My 9800+ is likely to blame since the rest of the system is still high quality. If it continues with other sources, it could be lowered system resources somewhere.
HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
edited May 2017
Just tested out a few videos both online and on my hard drive. Not getting the stutter.
I'm guessing with the blu ray I played last night maybe it was either the disk or the software. I'm not too fussed about it anymore though, since it seems like an isolated problem.
I did also check my audio drivers just to make sure though and they were up to date.
I'm looking into 1080p monitors for my 1060 right now. Probably can't do 144hz consistently, but is it a bad idea to get a 144hz monitor for the future? It won't be worse running lower FPS will it?
I'm looking into 1080p monitors for my 1060 right now. Probably can't do 144hz consistently, but is it a bad idea to get a 144hz monitor for the future? It won't be worse running lower FPS will it?
Not any more worse than running less than 60 on a 60hz display.
I'm looking into 1080p monitors for my 1060 right now. Probably can't do 144hz consistently, but is it a bad idea to get a 144hz monitor for the future? It won't be worse running lower FPS will it?
Not any more worse than running less than 60 on a 60hz display.
High refresh screens are dope.
Any IPS 144hz 1080p monitors to recommend? There's a whole lot of options and not a ton of resources explaining them. Looking for around 150ish to 200ish.
edit: apparently IPS and those other two things is difficult to find. IPS or 144hz more worthwhile? Looked at something like this maybe?
So, my motherboard failed. Got home, and computer was unresponsive. Looked at motherboard, and it was displaying code 55 (memory error). A few hours of reseating everything, and a call to the manufacturer, and I got told "well, you need to send it in." Cue another hour of disassembly and placing all the components back in their packaging, and getting the motherboard extracted.
(sigh)
It's still under warranty (otherwise I'd have a replacement ordered), but it was a long, frustrating evening.
My hardware arrived today. Going to build the system tomorrow, but I'd like to put in the HDD in my current pc and shovel stuff onto it. Before I do though, is there a reliable way to test this new hard drive for problems? Never used stuff like SMART and the like. I know that if it makes terrible clicking noises, things are bad, but otherwise I'm a bit clueless I'm afraid
So, my motherboard failed. Got home, and computer was unresponsive. Looked at motherboard, and it was displaying code 55 (memory error). A few hours of reseating everything, and a call to the manufacturer, and I got told "well, you need to send it in." Cue another hour of disassembly and placing all the components back in their packaging, and getting the motherboard extracted.
(sigh)
It's still under warranty (otherwise I'd have a replacement ordered), but it was a long, frustrating evening.
That sucks, but I have to say, manufacturer's warranties are one of the best things about building your own PC.
So, my motherboard failed. Got home, and computer was unresponsive. Looked at motherboard, and it was displaying code 55 (memory error). A few hours of reseating everything, and a call to the manufacturer, and I got told "well, you need to send it in." Cue another hour of disassembly and placing all the components back in their packaging, and getting the motherboard extracted.
(sigh)
It's still under warranty (otherwise I'd have a replacement ordered), but it was a long, frustrating evening.
That sucks, but I have to say, manufacturer's warranties are one of the best things about building your own PC.
It gave me a chance to do some fixes to bits on the computer, like get the AM4 cooler bracket set up (I've had it for a few weeks now, but haven't had a reason to set it up until now), and redo the wiring on my AIO by threading the fan cables behind the fan screws, making the cabling much neater. I also may look into EVGA's "upgrade in place" policy for my video card, since I'm going to be out of commission for two weeks.
One of these years there will be an ultrawide monitor at 144hz with G-Sync that doesn't cost two Texa$es.
I'd love to have a monitor higher than 60hz and with G-Sync, but after switching ultrawide (especially for gaming), you can pry that from my cold dead hands.
I've dealt with a decent amount of warranty/rma stuff over the years, and the manufacturers are by and large easier to deal with than actualfact pc vendors. Not only that, but you'll be hard pressed to find good quality pc parts that have warranties that are less than 3 years long. Hell, I've never bought ram that had less than a lifetime warranty. Whereas, it's pretty hard to find a gaming pc builder that have more than 90 day/1 year warranties, and extended support warranties cost money and are still usually less than pc part manufacturer's warranties. It's a bit of a sham when you consider that the boutique builders are buying the same parts we are and they can't be fucked to even match the warranties that the hardware actually has out of the factory.
I just have a Samsung S34E790C - 34-Inch Curved, which is one of the more budget but decent quality ultrawide monitor at $700, and is only 60hz (through display port).
Higher refresh rates and G-Sync on larger ultrawide are currently stupid fucking expensive.
Edit: It looks like some have come out more recently in the $1000-1200 price range.
Edit 2: All higher hz and/or widescreen and/or 4k monitors require display port connections. HDMI doesn't have the bandwith.
Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
edited May 2017
HDMI 2.0 can drive 4K at 60Hz and 1.4 can do it at 30Hz (for UHD 2160p; DCI 4K goes to 24Hz). There's theoretically enough bandwidth for high refresh rate depending on the res, but it's not standardized.
HDMI 2.0 can drive 4K at 60Hz and 1.4 can do it at 30Hz (for UHD 2160p; DCI 4K goes to 24Hz). There's theoretically enough bandwidth for high refresh rate depending on the res, but it's not standardized.
DVI can also do 4K at 60Hz, though I strongly recommend double-checking the cable you buy for that.
So I ran that CrystalDiskInfo that ppl recommended, and I get this for the new drive:
I...think that's bad? It's bad, isn't it. Freshly plugged in and formatted
e: on another page I found (again, I'm out of my depth here) recommended the following cmd prompt:
wmic diskdrive get status
which returned "OK" for all drives
e2: these are the CrystalDiskMark values I got before launching CrystalDiskInfo:
So, my motherboard failed. Got home, and computer was unresponsive. Looked at motherboard, and it was displaying code 55 (memory error). A few hours of reseating everything, and a call to the manufacturer, and I got told "well, you need to send it in." Cue another hour of disassembly and placing all the components back in their packaging, and getting the motherboard extracted.
(sigh)
It's still under warranty (otherwise I'd have a replacement ordered), but it was a long, frustrating evening.
That sucks, but I have to say, manufacturer's warranties are one of the best things about building your own PC.
It gave me a chance to do some fixes to bits on the computer, like get the AM4 cooler bracket set up (I've had it for a few weeks now, but haven't had a reason to set it up until now), and redo the wiring on my AIO by threading the fan cables behind the fan screws, making the cabling much neater. I also may look into EVGA's "upgrade in place" policy for my video card, since I'm going to be out of commission for two weeks.
So, some silver linings to this particular cloud.
So, the good news is that, if I want, I can upgrade my card from a 1070 to a 1080Ti for the difference.
The bad news:
* Said upgrade difference is about the same as what I paid for the card.
* EVGA doesn't do cross shipment, so I have to send them the card first. Which wouldn't be a problem (remember, computer is out of commission until I get the mobo back, hence why I'm looking into this), except...
* The card is backordered, so I could get the "send it back" request months from now. In which case, I'd probably have to get a cheap temporary card, pull the ancient one from my old machine, or another less than palatable solution.
the only "caution" out of that was that it says it had 100 sectors it's had to "reallocate" which probably means bad sectors. When you consider that on a 4TB drive it likely uses jumbo sectors, which are a whopping 4kb in size each, that means that it's identified 400kb that's gone bad out of a 4TB drive.
Yea... it's fine. it's a test to run every so often and check on, but don't worry too much.
Platter drives used to ship with errors out of the box within a margin of error (no idea if this is the case past the year 2000)
try a checkdisk and see if that fixes it
I unplugged it for now, and goodness, that thing was running hot
I'll assemble the new rig tomorrow (main storage is a SSD, so the HDD is not potential point of failure) and run it in there. I am already annoyed though. Oh well, we'll see I guess
the only "caution" out of that was that it says it had 100 sectors it's had to "reallocate" which probably means bad sectors. When you consider that on a 4TB drive it likely uses jumbo sectors, which are a whopping 4kb in size each, that means that it's identified 400kb that's gone bad out of a 4TB drive.
Yea... it's fine. it's a test to run every so often and check on, but don't worry too much.
That's more assuring
BUT
before I formatted it, the sound from that drive...man, it sounded like a dot matrix printer, like a warning signal. Never heard that before (stopped after driver installation and format) Given how hot that thing was though....Well, I'll see tomorrow I'll guess
I've dealt with a decent amount of warranty/rma stuff over the years, and the manufacturers are by and large easier to deal with than actualfact pc vendors. Not only that, but you'll be hard pressed to find good quality pc parts that have warranties that are less than 3 years long. Hell, I've never bought ram that had less than a lifetime warranty. Whereas, it's pretty hard to find a gaming pc builder that have more than 90 day/1 year warranties, and extended support warranties cost money and are still usually less than pc part manufacturer's warranties. It's a bit of a sham when you consider that the boutique builders are buying the same parts we are and they can't be fucked to even match the warranties that the hardware actually has out of the factory.
To be eligible for the upgrade program, I had to buy the extended warranty on the video card...at $20 for 2 additional years.
Yeah, that's pretty reasonable. (Plus it will transfer to the new card.)
Due to remodeling where I live, I've been shifted into a temporary new room. I decided to take advantage of a better placed HDTV and connect the PC to it.
Definitely not as sharp as my monitor. I think I'll dig out my second monitor cable and run dual screen so I can still monitor other programs I may be running and watch whatever on the TV. Definitely not ideal, but it should only be for two or three weeks.
The plus side is I connected my 360 to the TV and I'm thrilled to have the larger screen.
Posts
most of these were offered as free upgrades from the default, so I took them because hey, free upgrades!
I'll take another look at the SSD.
For a $1000 to $1250 build. I'd expect something like this:
CPU - $240 for an i5 7600k, $220 for a Ryzen 1600, or $190 for a Ryzen 1500X
Cooler - $30 air cooler, or stock cooler for Ryzen
Motherboard - between $90 to $130 for a name brand
RAM - between $90 to $130 for 16 GB of a name brand
SSD - $150 for 500 GB
HD - $75 for 2 TB
Video card - $220 to $260 for a GTX 1060 6gb or RX 580 8gb, or $380 to $420 for a GTX 1070
Power Supply - between $60 to $100 for a 500 to 650 watt name brand
Case - $50 to $100
Windows 10 - $100
This is all before taxes.
Well that's kind of what I do!
thanks for the advice guys, I appreciate it. The case came today (before the rest!), and man, that R5 sure is beautiful
It definitely isn't anymore for graphics intensive games.
8gb-not enough
16gb-just right
32gb-overkill if you're just gaming.
DISCUSS
That sounds about right to me. 8 GB was really struggling for things like ME:A, 16 GB gives you plenty and loads of headspace, 32GB you're not going to use to play games right now.
I'd be happy to take a whack at it, if people agree.
NCIX will assemble and test and even install your OS for you for $50.
It may take a little maintenance, but we'd only have to update it maybe every 3-6 months.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/93pGYr
Could this be my headset or motherboard, or just a driver or settings issue that can be fixed easily. I've so far just tried different usb ports for my headset and made sure audio enhancements were disabled. I really don't want to buy new hardware at the moment, so any tips would be welcome.
EDIT: After checking the youtube video I had watched earlier, I think it was the video itself with the audio stuttering. If that's the case then maybe this isn't that big a problem. I'll check some other videos and music later on my pc to see if there's stuttering.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
I'm guessing with the blu ray I played last night maybe it was either the disk or the software. I'm not too fussed about it anymore though, since it seems like an isolated problem.
I did also check my audio drivers just to make sure though and they were up to date.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
SniperGuyGaming on PSN / SniperGuy710 on Xbone Live
Not any more worse than running less than 60 on a 60hz display.
High refresh screens are dope.
Any IPS 144hz 1080p monitors to recommend? There's a whole lot of options and not a ton of resources explaining them. Looking for around 150ish to 200ish.
edit: apparently IPS and those other two things is difficult to find. IPS or 144hz more worthwhile? Looked at something like this maybe?
This one is a little pricier, but a little better? Displayport worth using?
SniperGuyGaming on PSN / SniperGuy710 on Xbone Live
Edit: a quick check of N-Vidia's G-Sync FAQ says Displayport is required.
SniperGuyGaming on PSN / SniperGuy710 on Xbone Live
(sigh)
It's still under warranty (otherwise I'd have a replacement ordered), but it was a long, frustrating evening.
That sucks, but I have to say, manufacturer's warranties are one of the best things about building your own PC.
It gave me a chance to do some fixes to bits on the computer, like get the AM4 cooler bracket set up (I've had it for a few weeks now, but haven't had a reason to set it up until now), and redo the wiring on my AIO by threading the fan cables behind the fan screws, making the cabling much neater. I also may look into EVGA's "upgrade in place" policy for my video card, since I'm going to be out of commission for two weeks.
So, some silver linings to this particular cloud.
I'd love to have a monitor higher than 60hz and with G-Sync, but after switching ultrawide (especially for gaming), you can pry that from my cold dead hands.
// Switch: SW-5306-0651-6424 //
Near elimination of screen tear, while also reducing things like input lag.
// Switch: SW-5306-0651-6424 //
Higher refresh rates and G-Sync on larger ultrawide are currently stupid fucking expensive.
Edit: It looks like some have come out more recently in the $1000-1200 price range.
Edit 2: All higher hz and/or widescreen and/or 4k monitors require display port connections. HDMI doesn't have the bandwith.
// Switch: SW-5306-0651-6424 //
DVI can also do 4K at 60Hz, though I strongly recommend double-checking the cable you buy for that.
I...think that's bad? It's bad, isn't it. Freshly plugged in and formatted
e: on another page I found (again, I'm out of my depth here) recommended the following cmd prompt:
wmic diskdrive get status
which returned "OK" for all drives
e2: these are the CrystalDiskMark values I got before launching CrystalDiskInfo:
Platter drives used to ship with errors out of the box within a margin of error (no idea if this is the case past the year 2000)
try a checkdisk and see if that fixes it
So, the good news is that, if I want, I can upgrade my card from a 1070 to a 1080Ti for the difference.
The bad news:
* Said upgrade difference is about the same as what I paid for the card.
* EVGA doesn't do cross shipment, so I have to send them the card first. Which wouldn't be a problem (remember, computer is out of commission until I get the mobo back, hence why I'm looking into this), except...
* The card is backordered, so I could get the "send it back" request months from now. In which case, I'd probably have to get a cheap temporary card, pull the ancient one from my old machine, or another less than palatable solution.
Yea... it's fine. it's a test to run every so often and check on, but don't worry too much.
I unplugged it for now, and goodness, that thing was running hot
I'll assemble the new rig tomorrow (main storage is a SSD, so the HDD is not potential point of failure) and run it in there. I am already annoyed though. Oh well, we'll see I guess
That's more assuring
BUT
before I formatted it, the sound from that drive...man, it sounded like a dot matrix printer, like a warning signal. Never heard that before (stopped after driver installation and format) Given how hot that thing was though....Well, I'll see tomorrow I'll guess
To be eligible for the upgrade program, I had to buy the extended warranty on the video card...at $20 for 2 additional years.
Yeah, that's pretty reasonable. (Plus it will transfer to the new card.)
Definitely not as sharp as my monitor. I think I'll dig out my second monitor cable and run dual screen so I can still monitor other programs I may be running and watch whatever on the TV. Definitely not ideal, but it should only be for two or three weeks.
The plus side is I connected my 360 to the TV and I'm thrilled to have the larger screen.