GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I don't have three monitors because I use VR, but the rest is true. I have a full rig (Obottu Revolution) with a decently middle-high grade pedal and wheel set (Fanatec v2.5 ClubSport wheel base + Formula Carbon rim + v3 pedals with a load cell, yes it has a working clutch pedal). Also no H pattern shifter because I drive mostly high down force road cars where paddle shifting is way more efficient and realistic.
Here's my rig (with my flight gear also attached, it's detached most of the time):
Here's a video of me doing a lap in VR in the Ferrari 488 GTE:
As far as community, yeah it's pretty big. I mostly do iRacing because I enjoy the competitive multiplayer aspect of it and iRacing leads the way on that in spades. If you're more in to the physics model side of things there are sims like rFactor 2 that people swear by. Project Cars 2 is also pretty much a hardcore sim at this point and a lot of fun.
It's a ridiculously expensive hobby, of that there is no doubt.
Hey I didn't know! He's the only person I knew for certain went big into VR.
Now I'm curious about sim racing. Is there a community around it?
PC sim racing scene is some of the most hardcore shit around. People are fanatical.
They're the people who would do a minimum of three monitors and a custom-built seat rig to include a 6+R shifter and a working clutch pedal.
Dropping three monitors for a VR headset is the least crazy thing they'll do.
Yeah, and there's enough demand to support a cottage industry of stupid-expensive motion cockpits that you can buy specifically for home use if you want that next-level kind of simulation. Shit is bonkers serious.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited November 2017
To be fair, the full motion sim rig thing is way more than 99% of sim racers will ever do. Direct drive wheel base? Sure. High end pro grade pedals like Huskenveld's or Ricmotec? Sure. Full motion sim rig to the tune of 20+G's? Eh, most people won't got that far. Kudos to the ones that do though, I appreciate dedication to a hobby.
@GnomeTank is there stuff like that for flight sims too? My brother in law was really into flying planes and flight sims before he and my sister got pregnant. Now that the kid's a few years old, he has a little more free time, and I've been thinking he might like a VR setup like that (maybe something less extravagant at first) for flying. Are there even any flight sims compatible with the Vive/Rift?
GnomeTank is there stuff like that for flight sims too? My brother in law was really into flying planes and flight sims before he and my sister got pregnant. Now that the kid's a few years old, he has a little more free time, and I've been thinking he might like a VR setup like that (maybe something less extravagant at first) for flying. Are there even any flight sims compatible with the Vive/Rift?
Look at my picture in my post above. You'll see my flight stick and throttle mounted to my setup. Only annoyance is I have to remove my race pedals (which are bolted down) to put on my flight pedals, it takes about 5'ish minutes. Minor annoyance.
Yes, most of the big flight sims now are VR compatible. DCS World (combat) and XPlane 11 (mostly civilian) have VR support.
I've made progress! Got a surprise delivery of my 8700k yesterday, and the SF600 plus final fittings arrived so I spent the morning doing some stuff! Pics in the gallery, nothing running yet but working on bleeding the air out slowly. Very. Slowly. Also my fingers are SO SORE, fyi Phobya compression fittings suck!!
And for the comments of this page, I replaced my Gigabyte G1 Gaming 6gb GTX 1060 when I started this upgrade so I'll likely not be keeping it. If the person doing the build is interested send me a PM, it's in good working order I just wanted more for my new build
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Dhalphirdon't you open that trapdooryou're a fool if you dareRegistered Userregular
Interesting. Hm... Well I personally have a GTX 1060 (6GB) would that be enough? I guess my processor will be the bottleneck on my PC. It's an i5-3570K.
The 1060 will be fine. So will the processor. VR is no different to regular games in having minimum and recommended, but the mininums and recommended are closer together.
Of course you'll get a much better experience with a 1070 but if the money isn't there then VR will still be great.
If I'm never going beyond a resolution of 1080p for gaming, is there any advantage in going for a video card above a 1060 6gb? In my limited prior experience, I'd understood that a 'better' card would be good for a longer period of time (i.e. more time playing games before I need to upgrade to play current titles). But some of what I'm reading makes it sound like 1080p is now so easily handled that maybe it's only pressing beyond 1080p that necessitates a new card? Would I comfortably get two years out of a 1060 6GB if I never pushed to 1440 or 4K? If 1080p is as much as my monitor can handle, is it a waste to go any higher?
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Zxerolfor the smaller pieces, my shovel wouldn't doso i took off my boot and used my shoeRegistered Userregular
If I'm never going beyond a resolution of 1080p for gaming, is there any advantage in going for a video card above a 1060 6gb? In my limited prior experience, I'd understood that a 'better' card would be good for a longer period of time (i.e. more time playing games before I need to upgrade to play current titles). But some of what I'm reading makes it sound like 1080p is now so easily handled that maybe it's only pressing beyond 1080p that necessitates a new card? Would I comfortably get two years out of a 1060 6GB if I never pushed to 1440 or 4K? If 1080p is as much as my monitor can handle, is it a waste to go any higher?
If I'm never going beyond a resolution of 1080p for gaming, is there any advantage in going for a video card above a 1060 6gb? In my limited prior experience, I'd understood that a 'better' card would be good for a longer period of time (i.e. more time playing games before I need to upgrade to play current titles). But some of what I'm reading makes it sound like 1080p is now so easily handled that maybe it's only pressing beyond 1080p that necessitates a new card? Would I comfortably get two years out of a 1060 6GB if I never pushed to 1440 or 4K? If 1080p is as much as my monitor can handle, is it a waste to go any higher?
Depends entirely on your display and where games head from here. Currently a 1060 6GB should handle 1080p gaming fine, but if you have something like a high resfresh rate g-sync display, you're going to want to push higher frames for smoothness.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Real talk about thermal paste time: I'm going to be ordering the rest of my 8700K upgrade parts tonight and I'm getting the Deepcool Captain EX cooler which comes with some Deepcool paste pre-applied. Everything I've been reading is that for most people, this is more than fine. Only people really pushing the overclock should care about spending serious money on something like Thermal Grizzly. What's the group opinion here? Spend money on after market paste, or just use the stuff deep cool pre-applied?
Real talk about thermal paste time: I'm going to be ordering the rest of my 8700K upgrade parts tonight and I'm getting the Deepcool Captain EX cooler which comes with some Deepcool paste pre-applied. Everything I've been reading is that for most people, this is more than fine. Only people really pushing the overclock should care about spending serious money on something like Thermal Grizzly. What's the group opinion here? Spend money on after market paste, or just use the stuff deep cool pre-applied?
It's probably fine, but it does depend on what clock speed you're shooting for and where your individual 8700k falls in the bin lottery. A poor chip might need all the help it can get if you want 5.0ghz and it'll only do that at 1.4v, but a lottery winner that runs the same speed with 1.2v could be fine with bargain-basement everything.
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
Kryonaut is 19 bucks for the 1 gram tube, that's my only real issue. That's kind of spendy for something you'll apply likely once and never use again. I guess if I payed all this money for a delidded 8700K I should spring for the good stuff.
Yeah, don't do that imo. I'd say it's a strong case of diminishing returns right there. Personally I bought conductonaut for my die-heatspreader TIM but dropped back a tier and went with Noctua NT-H1 for the heatspreader-waterblock side.
I got mine running tonight and without overclocking/disabling multi-core enhancement I was around 60c loaded in Prime95. 4.7ghz with multicore turned on mine was feeding 1.4v+(!!!) and temps were around 85c in P95. I'm gonna have to set the OC myself to bring temps down as it seems the BIOS is a bit overzealous. Despite all that at idle I sit at around 28c on all cores with a 20c ambient.
(Note that I have not delidded yet, this is stock TIM)
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited November 2017
Hmm, I'll probably just grab some IC Diamond 7, which is what I used on this 4790K build. It's 1 degree difference between that and Kryonaut, for about half the price.
Kryonaut is 19 bucks for the 1 gram tube, that's my only real issue. That's kind of spendy for something you'll apply likely once and never use again. I guess if I payed all this money for a delidded 8700K I should spring for the good stuff.
I would reframe the situation: instead of using the tube only once, your computer uses the paste constantly and there happens to be some extra in the tube.
Is the expensive paste going to provide a meaningful benefit over the cheaper stuff? I have no idea, but if it does then you're going to reap that benefit for X years, and if not then obviously don't waste money.
Kryonaut is 19 bucks for the 1 gram tube, that's my only real issue. That's kind of spendy for something you'll apply likely once and never use again. I guess if I payed all this money for a delidded 8700K I should spring for the good stuff.
I would reframe the situation: instead of using the tube only once, your computer uses the paste constantly and there happens to be some extra in the tube.
Is the expensive paste going to provide a meaningful benefit over the cheaper stuff? I have no idea, but if it does then you're going to reap that benefit for X years, and if not then obviously don't waste money.
Also, doesn't the paste kinda degrade over time? I could have sworn I read here on these forums (among other places) that you should reapply thermal paste every two or three years or so.
| Origin/R*SC: Ein7919 | Battle.net: Erlkonig#1448 | XBL: Lexicanum | Steam: Der Erlkönig (the umlaut is important) |
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HeatwaveCome, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered Userregular
Hi all, I've been lurking for awhile and reading because I am doing the same thing as Incindium. I finally got my son to make his list. He used a New Egg flyer as a starting point and to help focus, then I showed him how to read the spec sheets, skim reviews and then use the Parts Picker to make the list. We also used the Logical Increments list to help sort out the various options, in this case- specifically for Overwatch.
We are building a basic machine so he can play Overwatch and also serve as a general family and entertainment box, hence the optical drive, replacing a 2007 iMac (movies, homework, etc). Would someone be willing to give some feedback on this list? I've replaced components before, but not built something from the motherboard up. The list covers what we think are the basics, but maybe there are more versatile options or steps up/down that make better sense.
Storage: Western Digital - Blue 3TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.39 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 3GB 3GB GAMING Video Card ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Rosewill - FBM-01 MicroATX Mini Tower Case ($24.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Rosewill - 450W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($33.99 @ Newegg) **
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.29 @ OutletPC)
The prices listed here is roughly the top of our budget, but the acutal cost may be less with the deals we saw in the Black Friday New Egg flyer.
Notes:
* The listed SSD is probably not the one we want, I think we need to have the drive in a bay rather than on the motherboard itself. There is a version that is 2.5" vs M.2 for about the same capacity/price
** Rereading about power supply, the Parts Picker says we are 301W, so we added a what seems to be a larger PSU. But the issues seems a little mysterious.
Overall this is what we want to do. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
(oh dear god, the iMac is so slooooow *cries every time I have to do something on it*)
About $34 more than the original list, but that's because I switched from the GTX 1060 3GB to the 6GB version, which should last you longer.
Biggest change was making it a Ryzen 1600 build. This CPU already comes with a cooler so you don't have to worry about getting one unless you want to overclock above 3.7GHz.
Also selected a faster HDD and a Corsair 550W PSU which is on sale at newegg for a pretty good price.
Was tempted to change the case to something like the Cooler Master N200 for easier cable management, but didn't want to make the build anymore expensive than it already is.
Kryonaut is 19 bucks for the 1 gram tube, that's my only real issue. That's kind of spendy for something you'll apply likely once and never use again. I guess if I payed all this money for a delidded 8700K I should spring for the good stuff.
I would reframe the situation: instead of using the tube only once, your computer uses the paste constantly and there happens to be some extra in the tube.
Is the expensive paste going to provide a meaningful benefit over the cheaper stuff? I have no idea, but if it does then you're going to reap that benefit for X years, and if not then obviously don't waste money.
Also, doesn't the paste kinda degrade over time? I could have sworn I read here on these forums (among other places) that you should reapply thermal paste every two or three years or so.
That is the consensus out there in the world. If you are the type to upgrade every few years, it doesn't matter much since you'll be redoing the paste.
The paste in the tube also degrades over time. I've seen three to five years. Meaning that unless you intend to use what you buy in significant quantities when you buy it, it may now be worthwhile to spend a bunch on something you'll probably only use once. Granted, it's not a cost you'd notice over time. But it still is a waste of money and product.
If your intent is to eke out every degree of cooling possible, you're probably spending so much it won't be a factor. Having said that, going a little cheaper for slightly degraded performance isn't going to hurt anything.
I think there's a lot of subjectivity here. For example, I haven't refreshed the thermal paste on my build in 5 years and I still have no problems. Granted, I am not OCing, but I'm not seeing a degredation, per se.
I haven't done the proper research, but the TIM in the tubes is essentially metallic material in a suspension (this is a generalization, so don't beat me up on this one item). To my knowledge, there is nothing volatile in the material compound that should degrade (i.e. "dry out") in the tube. Which means you should be able to take a tube of older TIM, squirt it onto a business card or piece of cardboard, and use a toothpick to reconstitute the suspension (bad example: you're doing the equivalent of shaking up a bottle of salad dressing that's been sitting for a while).
Is it messy? Yes. Is it ideal? No. Will it get the job done in a pinch? Most likely.
So then it comes down to the cost of buying a new tube of TIM vs. the time involved in recovering/refreshing the tube of TIM you have sitting on your desk. Which I think for 99% of users who handle TIM, they would just decide to order a new tube.
It's all speculation, really. The cost, even for high end paste, is generally considered negligible. You are more likely to lose the tube in the intervening years. Like most other choices involved with building a PC it comes down to personal preferences.
Lots of sites have done testing on different brands. After reading a few, I settled on the Noctua stuff as being both effective and relatively inexpensive. I also went with the pea-sized dollop and called it a day. My non-OC 6700k idles at ~21. I'm satisfied.
Don't be, I built my first PC in or around 2004. If my memory is correct I used Arctic Silver 5. I used the same tube on a wack of builds since then including my last reseat on my i5 about 2 or 3 years back and it was still ok.
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3cl1ps3I will build a labyrinth to house the cheeseRegistered Userregular
Posts
I run high end VR basically every day to sim race, I'm not talking about my butt when I'm talking about system requirements for VR, hehe.
Now I'm curious about sim racing. Is there a community around it?
PC sim racing scene is some of the most hardcore shit around. People are fanatical.
They're the people who would do a minimum of three monitors and a custom-built seat rig to include a 6+R shifter and a working clutch pedal.
Dropping three monitors for a VR headset is the least crazy thing they'll do.
Here's my rig (with my flight gear also attached, it's detached most of the time):
Here's a video of me doing a lap in VR in the Ferrari 488 GTE:
As far as community, yeah it's pretty big. I mostly do iRacing because I enjoy the competitive multiplayer aspect of it and iRacing leads the way on that in spades. If you're more in to the physics model side of things there are sims like rFactor 2 that people swear by. Project Cars 2 is also pretty much a hardcore sim at this point and a lot of fun.
It's a ridiculously expensive hobby, of that there is no doubt.
Yeah, and there's enough demand to support a cottage industry of stupid-expensive motion cockpits that you can buy specifically for home use if you want that next-level kind of simulation. Shit is bonkers serious.
Flight simmers do it occasionally. You're still looking at spending at least 6k in raw materials to do it.
Here's one that I contemplated building recently.
right above your post brother :-P
Look at my picture in my post above. You'll see my flight stick and throttle mounted to my setup. Only annoyance is I have to remove my race pedals (which are bolted down) to put on my flight pedals, it takes about 5'ish minutes. Minor annoyance.
Yes, most of the big flight sims now are VR compatible. DCS World (combat) and XPlane 11 (mostly civilian) have VR support.
What flight sims are in vogue that work with that sort of rig?
https://imgur.com/a/tnqcI
And for the comments of this page, I replaced my Gigabyte G1 Gaming 6gb GTX 1060 when I started this upgrade so I'll likely not be keeping it. If the person doing the build is interested send me a PM, it's in good working order I just wanted more for my new build
The 1060 will be fine. So will the processor. VR is no different to regular games in having minimum and recommended, but the mininums and recommended are closer together.
Of course you'll get a much better experience with a 1070 but if the money isn't there then VR will still be great.
high refreeeeeeeeeesh
http://a.co/1DwLbDU
Does that look good to everyone? Do you think anything from that list will get any price discounts for Black Friday/Cyber Monday?
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Just from a usability standpoint I wouldn't go for less than 8 gigs of memory.
Nintendo ID: Incindium
PSN: IncindiumX
Depends entirely on your display and where games head from here. Currently a 1060 6GB should handle 1080p gaming fine, but if you have something like a high resfresh rate g-sync display, you're going to want to push higher frames for smoothness.
It's probably fine, but it does depend on what clock speed you're shooting for and where your individual 8700k falls in the bin lottery. A poor chip might need all the help it can get if you want 5.0ghz and it'll only do that at 1.4v, but a lottery winner that runs the same speed with 1.2v could be fine with bargain-basement everything.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-comparison,5108.html
I got mine running tonight and without overclocking/disabling multi-core enhancement I was around 60c loaded in Prime95. 4.7ghz with multicore turned on mine was feeding 1.4v+(!!!) and temps were around 85c in P95. I'm gonna have to set the OC myself to bring temps down as it seems the BIOS is a bit overzealous. Despite all that at idle I sit at around 28c on all cores with a 20c ambient.
(Note that I have not delidded yet, this is stock TIM)
Is the expensive paste going to provide a meaningful benefit over the cheaper stuff? I have no idea, but if it does then you're going to reap that benefit for X years, and if not then obviously don't waste money.
Also, doesn't the paste kinda degrade over time? I could have sworn I read here on these forums (among other places) that you should reapply thermal paste every two or three years or so.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FMwCjc
About $34 more than the original list, but that's because I switched from the GTX 1060 3GB to the 6GB version, which should last you longer.
Biggest change was making it a Ryzen 1600 build. This CPU already comes with a cooler so you don't have to worry about getting one unless you want to overclock above 3.7GHz.
Also selected a faster HDD and a Corsair 550W PSU which is on sale at newegg for a pretty good price.
Was tempted to change the case to something like the Cooler Master N200 for easier cable management, but didn't want to make the build anymore expensive than it already is.
Steam / Origin & Wii U: Heatwave111 / FC: 4227-1965-3206 / Battle.net: Heatwave#11356
That is the consensus out there in the world. If you are the type to upgrade every few years, it doesn't matter much since you'll be redoing the paste.
The paste in the tube also degrades over time. I've seen three to five years. Meaning that unless you intend to use what you buy in significant quantities when you buy it, it may now be worthwhile to spend a bunch on something you'll probably only use once. Granted, it's not a cost you'd notice over time. But it still is a waste of money and product.
If your intent is to eke out every degree of cooling possible, you're probably spending so much it won't be a factor. Having said that, going a little cheaper for slightly degraded performance isn't going to hurt anything.
I haven't done the proper research, but the TIM in the tubes is essentially metallic material in a suspension (this is a generalization, so don't beat me up on this one item). To my knowledge, there is nothing volatile in the material compound that should degrade (i.e. "dry out") in the tube. Which means you should be able to take a tube of older TIM, squirt it onto a business card or piece of cardboard, and use a toothpick to reconstitute the suspension (bad example: you're doing the equivalent of shaking up a bottle of salad dressing that's been sitting for a while).
Is it messy? Yes. Is it ideal? No. Will it get the job done in a pinch? Most likely.
So then it comes down to the cost of buying a new tube of TIM vs. the time involved in recovering/refreshing the tube of TIM you have sitting on your desk. Which I think for 99% of users who handle TIM, they would just decide to order a new tube.
Lots of sites have done testing on different brands. After reading a few, I settled on the Noctua stuff as being both effective and relatively inexpensive. I also went with the pea-sized dollop and called it a day. My non-OC 6700k idles at ~21. I'm satisfied.
Shogun Streams Vidya
Metal colloids/suspensions should be stable for like, decades. I wouldn't worry about it.
The ceramic greases are more likely to go bad because their components will separate out eventually.