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[3D Printing] A toy to build toys...New to the hobby....

YotebethYotebeth CoyoteB'hamRegistered User regular
Hey all! I hope this is the right place to post, if not, my apologies!

Just got my first 3D printer for mybirthday, and I’m lovin’ it! Don’t really have any close friends who print, so I’m really winging it! This is def a case of fake it until you make it.

Machine:
Prusa iMk 2.5

Slicer:
Prusa control system and Cura...and so,Times mesh iced if I want to manually messup er...add supports.

Creation software:
Sculptris and tinkercad

I’m hoping to chat with other folks doing the 3D printing thing, any tips, advice, or images of your current and past builds would be great!

Cheers!

Full Time Artist. Rescuer of Reptiles. Engraver of Things. Occasional Coyote.
FeralKristmas KthulhuDisruptedCapitalistVirgil_Leads_You
«13

Posts

  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    I got a Monoprice Select Mini V1 shortly before Christmas and then got a V2 for Christmas.

    So I'm dual wielding right out of the gate.

    The thermistor seems to have died on my v1 already, but who needs a heated bed!

    Going to have to look at Sculptris, seems like there should be an easier way to modify a design, but maybe I just need to learn the ones I've looked at better (mmeshmixer, tinkerpad is basic but like just remove a part of an object is clunky.

    I just made a holster for when I'm using my phone as an music player around the house with headphones and no pockets, then I realized I also got some bluetooth headphones recently too and well, now I have a holster for something I guess!

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 2018
    Hi ya'll I'm new to the hobby too, and I've been experimenting with some downloaded models in Blender. Here's the weird thing though: The models I download have a ridiculous number of seemingly unnecessary vertices for otherwise simple shapes. I'm used to modeling things for video games where low polygon counts are important, but I would think modeling something like a small disc or wheel should be fairly simple work.

    Here's my wheel:
    qf8wui87yozq.png
    Nice. Neat. Symmetrical.

    Here's the downloaded wheel:
    dpn4omqa4gup.png
    Weird. Messy. Asymmetrical.

    I don't have access to a printer yet, but I'd like to avoid a lot of trouble when I start printing. Any idea why this is? I've seen the same thing in other downloaded shapes where they seem needlessly complicated when I simple polygon would do the same, but I feel like I'm missing something about 3d printing.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    I would assume it has something to do with geometry restrictions in re: printing.

    Though your symmetrical one looks less restrictive than that weird one.

    Maybe the person modeling it was just bad. A lot of them are free so probably not the best skillset to pull from.

    Ladies.
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 2018
    bowen wrote: »
    I would assume it has something to do with geometry restrictions in re: printing.

    Though your symmetrical one looks less restrictive than that weird one.

    Maybe the person modeling it was just bad. A lot of them are free so probably not the best skillset to pull from.

    Actually, researching it further, (hooo boy I'm such a newb) it seems like generally most people in the 3d printing business use NURBS and not polygon meshes for modeling because NURBS has smoother results which you when when making mechanical tools, etc. So I'm guessing the 3d model I downloaded was exported from a NURBS model to STL file, which means it was converted into a triangle polygon mesh where every polygon is approximated based on the curves.

    That said, it seems like there is no reason not to use mesh models for a beginner, especially if you're just making sculptures or whatever. But if you want your grommets to perfectly fit your widgets for your manufacturing process, you'll want to use some kind of CAD software like SolidWorks instead of Blender since it has better NURBS options than Blender.


    EDIT: And here's an example I found showing the difference between a STL file and CAD program using NURBS:

    The_differences_between_CAD_and_STL_Models.svg

    So you can see how the NURBS model will be more accurate especially for getting mechanical parts to fit together.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
    bowenVirgil_Leads_You
  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    I can see why the NURBS stuff is preferred for sure there.

    Ladies.
    DisruptedCapitalist
  • DisruptedCapitalistDisruptedCapitalist Registered User regular
    edited March 2018
    Ok, I'm starting to understand the difference now. It's not that Blender can't do NURBS, it's just that people don't think not really that reliable so why bother making a NURBS curve in Blender when you'll have to convert it into polygons for printing anyway? Professionals who do mechanical work are just more used to using CAD software which usually everything starts with NURBS. Sculptors will use Modbox or Scupltris. Modelers will used Maya, TinkerCAD or Blender (or whatever cuz there are dozens of them). Any of them are fine for printing, the main goal for printing is to have a high resolution whether you start with NURBS or with polygons. If you want accuracy you'll need to have a high resolution so when the print job start the printer will get close to what you want (within the limitations of the printer too, obviously.) And if you don't care about accuracy, like say you're just sculpting a simple model for a tabletop boardgame (ahem, me...!), you'll be fine with whatever.

    DisruptedCapitalist on
    bowenDevoutlyApathetic
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    I would think that a model for 3D printing would be optimized for using less plastic, but would also require an internal framework to keep it upright while printing so it doesn't just fall over onto the print bed halfway through the job.

    I know roughly dick about 3D printing, but I've been knocking around with the idea of picking a 3D printer up for making custom wargaming terrain, so I'm curious to see your results.

    73CQcJZ.png
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    Personally, I only worry if it'll fit on my build area/what'll happen if I make it fit. Plastic usage is whatever, 1 spool lasts ages. Though, that will depend on what you print how often, but with the print times you'll still get a lot of use out of a single spool.

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited May 2018
    So I find it really hard to troubleshoot my current problem. I think I know the issue, but I am really lost in the woods now.

    Recently, my prints just stop printing after like half an inch of layers. the head keeps moving, the extruder gear tries to pull the filament still I think, but the filament is defintiely stuck. It isnt a simple clog though(I think?).

    I thought it was the model I was printing at first, but it started happening on everything. I had 1-2 successful prints (after switching spools) so I figured the spool was bad, or the model was bad.

    At first it happened with some wood filament, so I figured it was clogs and bad filament. But forcing filament through cleared it out ok. It always cuts off in the /exact/ same way. I did a full tear down and put the nozzle in acetone for a few days, and it seemed pretty clear. I could probably use a new nozzle anyways, so I might pick a new one up. But it doesnt seem to be the issue.

    The only thing I can think of that is happening, is something is stuck in the nozzle, and the heat causes it to unlatch and fall into a spot where it blocks the nozzle in the time it takes to print that half inch of model. When I force more filament through, its doing something that temporarily knocks it out of the way. I thought maybe the heat was traveling up the filament to the gear that pushes it, which when soft no longer can be pushed. The filament is slightly warm up there, but it doesnt wrap itself around or eat away, it just doesnt push down. My gear was worn down, so I took it off and flipped it so let fresh teeth at it. No luck.

    I could just buy a new hotend for like $50, but I believe I would need calipers to realign everything once done and I am not looking forward to doing such a thing. It's a monoprice maker select, so a i3/prussa clone.

    DiannaoChong on
    steam_sig.png
  • KrathoonKrathoon Registered User regular
    Print kid Link from OoT.

  • DevoutlyApatheticDevoutlyApathetic Registered User regular
    So I find it really hard to troubleshoot my current problem. I think I know the issue, but I am really lost in the woods now.

    Recently, my prints just stop printing after like half an inch of layers. the head keeps moving, the extruder gear tries to pull the filament still I think, but the filament is defintiely stuck. It isnt a simple clog though(I think?).

    I thought it was the model I was printing at first, but it started happening on everything. I had 1-2 successful prints (after switching spools) so I figured the spool was bad, or the model was bad.

    At first it happened with some wood filament, so I figured it was clogs and bad filament. But forcing filament through cleared it out ok. It always cuts off in the /exact/ same way. I did a full tear down and put the nozzle in acetone for a few days, and it seemed pretty clear. I could probably use a new nozzle anyways, so I might pick a new one up. But it doesnt seem to be the issue.

    The only thing I can think of that is happening, is something is stuck in the nozzle, and the heat causes it to unlatch and fall into a spot where it blocks the nozzle in the time it takes to print that half inch of model. When I force more filament through, its doing something that temporarily knocks it out of the way. I thought maybe the heat was traveling up the filament to the gear that pushes it, which when soft no longer can be pushed. The filament is slightly warm up there, but it doesnt wrap itself around or eat away, it just doesnt push down. My gear was worn down, so I took it off and flipped it so let fresh teeth at it. No luck.

    I could just buy a new hotend for like $50, but I believe I would need calipers to realign everything once done and I am not looking forward to doing such a thing. It's a monoprice maker select, so a i3/prussa clone.

    This is just general "Hot plastic through a nozzle" thinking but it sounds like you're outfeeding your heating capacity. What keeps the nozzle nice and hot? It sounds like it may no longer be operating as well as it should. This works with your symptoms, when it preheats itself it builds up a thermal bank and as you push more plastic through it fails to put enough heat out to maintain the average temperature so it lowers until it is no longer enough to make the plastic flow.

    Virgil_Leads_You
  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    Somewhat related to 3d printing, but I got a Nomad 883 used on Craigslist a while ago. Been running it and have made a few things I've posted in the SE++ arts and crafts thread. I realized that I can machine parts out of aluminium out of things and have been considering making my own 3d printer. I'm not sure that it's a great idea, especially because it could get expensive pretty quick but it'd be fun.

    Also I have no idea what I'm doing. Maybe buying a cheaper 3d printer to start out with would be the better idea.

    Also if you guys aren't aware Thingiverse is the coolest of things.

    PSN: jfrofl
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    You can get a decent starter printer for ~$250 or little less. MP Select Mini. Way to go unless the fun part is worth the cost of all the parts you can't make.

    But now I kind of want a CNC machine...:P

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    I'm totally a shill at this point for the Carbide 3d team. Support has been amazing on this used machine that I bought. I also ended up picking up a cheap Shapeoko 3 that I'm realizing I dont have the work space for (thought I could get creative with an enclosed cabinet but it's too big.
    So I'm working on fixing that up (there were some broken parts), and then will likely sell.

    But even if you dont go with the carbide 3d line, CNC stuff is really amazing. I think the favorite project I've done so far has been this raspberry pi type case from a file on thingiverse:
    Radiation wrote: »
    Got the other side made up and finished. I may have to do some filling down of walls to make space for the board, but hoping that wont be required.

    apMnmpXnNz9mzfXsbyPz68G34duMCOB4z6qIJU0OKxC7wE7cMCGz_j2jbV8eGmCL4_LGHw_X8nXWHBpoV3kmR3a7WO4jbJrFZWYG0gTR9Y5pNLf58Y4uz4sgbz-D7t0yuvp_4uKkBtyRt1qRuwKDdrdGspXddQbUAfLdaBfvWSbrAY1iWwQnQaJ4melwy-Cknty6OnZn5QOpyy6XriGB44Mxsoe5H_V-xQSGmUcxP9NJWEk6ifOPH2bwVojh6jsyTsgGwLYpMqoe5pXmcHOAQJgQ7lUTLnJQq2xWyMd_2Q8fA_n5py2J-8m131ILhwFGkjGYB6qxLUShBPT7P_E5IvszD8L-n4CS-Dsydh_Ngya23ChTLTBYWJm4DfQ_1tkrxMQoRmBaLHCRUKYw_BKNZqax9NyQuEWJzVd0EOmTArQJMURu1a1AcnIuIHzmEWNQJCyneDMVPtWIzUFqdSpfLgAbdb2rS4p3aujQZFGNGZ_veyx710_hKn14oDA_4FpPNL1JYhtBMcHwG2QPDVT05IPtEsc6bpxTPxmIM5L0xlghhfDGLrQTDY7NtID-tCf88vEehTp6XibYgGfW2jS7AfSPA8DJVzV0gy_dvhJRxJ1kJAz6MIMSFg6YwkaeipFE7N8g9YtTkCDwSdljJva4bZxnHWp___8nezaBvP3ItQ5ZpSYekEW8W_Tl=w731-h974-no


    Also yeah, I've seen a few really good low level 3d printers and may hop on that first. I have access to a few, but it's always nice to have your own. There's a 3d printer meetup group here that I may just start chatting up. It's likely easier to chat in person about problems or feasibility of making my own. Someone likely has gone down that rabbit hole.

    PSN: jfrofl
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    So it seems I ordered a Creality Ender 3 Pro as a christmas present for myself and now I'm going down a very deep rabbit hole.

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Virgil_Leads_Youthatassemblyguy
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    Echo wrote: »
    So it seems I ordered a Creality Ender 3 Pro as a christmas present for myself and now I'm going down a very deep rabbit hole.

    Please leave torches and/or scrawled messages on the walls because I might be following you in about a month.

    73CQcJZ.png
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    Echo wrote: »
    So it seems I ordered a Creality Ender 3 Pro as a christmas present for myself and now I'm going down a very deep rabbit hole.

    Please leave torches and/or scrawled messages on the walls because I might be following you in about a month.

    4cu74bqonqpr.png

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    bowenSmokeStacks
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    I got one too! Sadly my bed is concave so I went ahead and purchased a glass panel. I want to get a bltouch but if I ho that route I might as well get a new controller board.

  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    Concave bed is less than ideal, yeah. I assume you didn't want to go through the hassle of a return so upgraded instead? Should at least complain so they...ignore you, but it could help!

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    I could make a big stink but the glass is like $10.

  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    edited January 4
    I've had some success with my 3D printer. Monoprice Maker Select Plus. (I3 Select Plus clone)

    I wanted a higher resolution though. Today I spent my day attempting to install and setup prints with a .3mm nozzle.
    I know folk say you can achieve awesome results with a .4 nozzle, but I wanna give longer and more detailed prints a shot.
    (Also have heard the argument that smaller nozzles and longer print times mean more heat and disruption on the print)

    I'm having trouble dialing in the settings for the .3mm nozzle in Cura.
    Spent about a day tinkering around with it, and I'm having fun, but not having much success.
    Feels like the filament isn't being extruded fast enough to contact to adhere to the bed. Like it's extruding the filament too far away.
    I know the bed is leveled, and I've relisted the machine's nozzle as .3 mm in the settings for Cura.
    I'm just wondering if there is something I'm missing in the slicer settings, some measurement I need to input, so that the filament successfully builds.

    Can def slow the speed down, but I'm worried I'm missing something about the vertical distance.
    I guess there could be a clog, or I need to adjust the heat too?

    I ran out of the starter pla that came with the machine, and I'm using esun's grey pla+.
    It requires more heat than regular pla, which I've have it set, and I suppose I might need to increase the heat more to accompany the smaller nozzle?

    Currently running it at 225 (max listed for the pla), but I'm hesitant to go higher.
    (could be that it's too hot right now too)
    I mainly don't wanna melt the little plastic tube in the hotend.

    Virgil_Leads_You on
    VayBJ4e.png
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    edited January 4
    Got my thingie today and assembled it in ~90 minutes.

    At first I thought the feet were uneven on it, but it turns out my desk is a bit crooked. Maybe I can print a new desk.

    Echo on
    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    It begins!

    XR0vpZX.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    SmokeStacksElvenshaeVirgil_Leads_YouCasually Hardcorewebguy20DisruptedCapitalist
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    I think I fixed my printer!
    I think the Z axis accidentally got shifted when I installed the new nozzle, so when I was leveling, the bed and nozzle was actually shifted in a dumb way.

    Test print on some gloomhaven cultists seem to be starting ok.
    I'm excited to see how the .3mm nozzle works. (.2mm seems like way too much work)

    VayBJ4e.png
  • XeddicusXeddicus Registered User regular
    Too late now probably, but I'd let to see some before and after shots of the same model.

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    Hard to tell while it's still printing, but this looks like pretty darn good quality for an entry-level 3D printer.

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • Casually HardcoreCasually Hardcore Once an Asshole. Trying to be better. Registered User regular
    Echo wrote: »
    It begins!

    XR0vpZX.jpg

    Tune to spend the next week printing upgrades, wondering why you didn’t just print a 3D printer to start.

    Echo
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    edited January 4
    Well I had some success!

    65in6huqj3l7.jpg

    Super stringy though, and I made the mistake of using "brim" with such a small layer hieght.
    I had turned off retraction and jerk and other settings, so I understand why the print had so much stringing.
    I'm figuring it out though.

    Link to the cultist.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3272098

    Virgil_Leads_You on
    VayBJ4e.png
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    4h39m later... this is a test model that came pre-loaded on the SD card that came with the printer. Using the small spool of filament I also got in the box.

    Aw7LAaC.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Virgil_Leads_You
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    If you are jumping into 3d printing, I really like the videos by the following youtubers.

    Thomas Sanladerer - Super informative videos on 3D printing in general.
    If you need to make some change to your machine, this guy has got you covered with well produced videos.



    ---

    In the Holiday forums, helpful folk turned me onto Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors.


    He gives technical information for tabletop 3d printing.

    I feel like his settings and stuff will work perfect for .4mm, and I don't have the same machine.
    You can go through the setting and adjust things as he goes over each individual bit of the process.

    I'm on the frontier on settings for my pla, printer, and nozzle at the moment, but he helped get me started.



    VayBJ4e.png
    Echo
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    I have a small list of mods I want to print and slap on my printer, but yeah, I'll give that a watch. :+1:

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    5h31m to print using stock settings.

    6DusYvQ.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Virgil_Leads_YouXeddicusCasually Hardcorewebguy20SmokeStacks
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    These guys turned out much better.
    Glad I'm dialing things back in.

    5r66t8as4g3b.jpg

    VayBJ4e.png
    webguy20GvzbgulSmokeStacks
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    Continuing the tradition of printing printer mods.

    lYLdfFP.jpg

    XQV1lX4.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Mr_RoseVirgil_Leads_YouXeddicusDisruptedCapitalistwebguy20thatassemblyguybowenElvenshae
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    The Esun PLA cult have summoned a barbed devil into existence.

    ku0saqm9tgip.jpg

    Is this the end of our party?

    VayBJ4e.png
    GvzbgulElvenshaeDisruptedCapitalist
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    Printing player trays for Terraforming Mars. Since I don't really care much about the quality here i'll experiment a bit with settings. This is 0.3mm layer height. For the next piece I'll try bumping printing speed from 40mm/s to 60mm/s.

    I think I need to level the bed again, that dark spot means the the front right corner is too high so the first layer is thinner there.

    wGKPvyi.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Virgil_Leads_YouGvzbgul
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    Heck ya, print your own broken token system!

    VayBJ4e.png
    EchoElvenshae
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    First little SNAFU. People say that 90% of failed prints happen on the first layer, and I can see why. It's the one that needs to stick to the print surface and everything else goes on top of.

    YZPNT3h.jpg

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    One player tile for Terraforming Mars printed. The print surface on the Ender 3 is ~5mm too small to print it in one piece, but I found a model split into two parts.

    DwQov9pWoAAOSTq.jpg:large

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    LD50SmokeStacksVirgil_Leads_YouElvenshaeXeddicusDisruptedCapitalist
  • Virgil_Leads_YouVirgil_Leads_You Not on Any Podcast or Affliated Don't Even Own a MikeRegistered User regular
    edited January 8
    I've been painting up some minis for some friends and one of them had a difficult request.
    Description was a very sunny and happy elf in a frilly sundress.

    So part of the reason I wanted to get a 3d printer was to practice modeling, so I decided to give it a shot.

    So i didn't learn to craft the mini from scratch, but I shaped it piece meal as a remix of several other creative commons designs on thingiverse.

    qfrfgrzsv5rm.jpg

    Lynn Minmay China Dress by Bluegazer
    Published on December 16, 2018
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:3290370

    Dress Planter by MakerBot
    Published on May 31, 2016
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:292921

    Commoner Collection! by mz4250
    Published on March 2, 2018
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:2812198

    NPC Collection 2 by mz4250
    Published on May 27, 2018
    www.thingiverse.com/thing:2932866

    A simple search of "dress" and "sundress" tended to come up wanting with regard to thingiverse and shapeways, so I went with Lynn Minmay China Dress by Bluegazer, as a start.
    Kinda got the impression this original design was intended to be a bit pervy, so I needed to make some adjustments to adjust it to be a DnD mini.
    Coincidentally, I found a skirt of a frilly dress published by MakerBot. It's a potted planter, but it looked like a good fit for the Frilly aspect of the project.

    I altered and fused the two designs in meshmixer, a free 3D design software. Lots of trimming and re sculpting the design to get things to fit.
    I scaled the combined model down and added some elf ears and a 1 inch mini base.

    I noticed the super thin legs and high heels would be difficult to print, and they honestly weren't very in line with medieval fashion.
    The face of the anime model was also a bit too subtle to print well on a mini, so that needed changing too.

    That's where I borrowed some boots and a face from mz4250 (they're famous for creating free mini designs of all the monsters in the Dnd monster manual, and npcs).
    They had a barmaid with a expressive face and a sturdy booted female alchemist, that I transplanted onto my mini design.

    I also moved one of the bowties from the potted planter skirt, up top where I had removed the Chinese Dress accents.

    Now normally this would be a impossible design to print, but I used the software from Autodesk, Netfabb, to run repair scripts and properly fuse these designs together.
    All of the design needs to be completely encapsulated and merged with no holes or any weird bits.

    I'm a college student so I had access to a 3 year free license for the professional version. I want to say that you can get access to a free basic version of the software though.
    It worked pretty well!

    Meshmixer has this functionality too, but often that program will just delete the added bits from the design as it's "repair".

    And now I've got a new model to try and print. It was a fun evening project as I wait for college classes to start back up!
    It's not a perfect design but I feel like it's pretty alright for a beginner.

    ks5fb2kdcjgi.jpg

    Virgil_Leads_You on
    VayBJ4e.png
    XeddicusElvenshae
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