Printed a set of these feet for the printer, and that actually helped a lot! It's a bit quieter in general, but mainly the entire sound signature changed now that most of the vibrations aren't going down into my desk.
These feet seem like they would be helpful to print ^
I don't know yet if I'll need the fan housing or the spool holder, so I guess I'll ask for those as needed when I actually get the thing delivered.
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
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mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
BTW Echo you are a 3D criminal for talking about your mods to your printer without posting a link to data files so I can print them too! Though granted what you did for the Ender 3 might not work with the Ender 5.
Oh i should probably print one of those. I solved this problem by getting an extension cable for the slot, thinking that I'd probably try to relocate the box to the back of the printer anyway - so having an extender seemed like the better idea at the time.
...six months later and the box hasnt moved soo yeah.
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CambiataCommander ShepardThe likes of which even GAWD has never seenRegistered Userregular
I modeled my first part using this guy's videos! I was even able to troubleshoot why I was getting an error and the cut-through wasn't working. I'm way more excited about modeling a plastic box than is probably normal!
"If you divide the whole world into just enemies and friends, you'll end up destroying everything" --Nausicaa of the Valley of Wind
Not sure if thingiverse just sucks or if they actually limited showing my bookmarked to 21 things, but either way, can't get the exact link. Think it was this one. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2913473
Also Creality stepping up their game for the new Ender 3 model, actually shipping with TMC stepper drivers so they're nice and quiet out of the box, generally looking like a more finished product that needs less tinkering.
I'm thinking I'm gonna do a partial tear down of my IIIP. Still have the worst time with bed leveling/adhesion. Bed was always a little off (one side level screw way up one side way down). After I moved it's been a lot worse. I can't barely print anything with a base bigger than 2"sq
If there a markedly superior N95 ear saver print anyone has seen? My wifes niece works at the local hospital and was talking about how bad it is wearing masks all day.
I whipped up a batch of ear savers of a couple types to see if her and her coworkers can benefit from them but I'm game if there's a better model out there before I start printing hundreds of the things.
mightyjongyoSour CrrmEast Bay, CaliforniaRegistered Userregular
How were the fumes for you/how is yours set up?
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
Meanwhile, I designed a set of BATTLETECH movement tokens. My local friend with an Artillery X1 wanted to print a set if I made a few changes.
He wanted the print to pause partway through so he could swap filaments but the printer didn't do it. Fortunately a few minutes with a Sharpie worked fine.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
Well I set mine up in our basement which is petty big and the table with the printer is between two windows. Opened both windows up and I can only smell fumes when I'm right on top of the machine
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Oooh, let me know how that goes. I'd felt exactly the same thing about the print times being completely unrealistic, but I had no idea what the root might've been.
Holy crap, I don't think I've ever seen my printer work this fast. First off, I realized I still had my Cura profile speed at 40mm/s, so I upped it to the default 60. So far it's looking to be right on target for the print time, and Octoprint still has control of the print even though the data comes from the sd card. Only thing that won't work is Octolapse, but that makes sense because it messes with the Gcode.
I'll print up another one tomorrow from the Octoprint directly, just so I have hard numbers.
Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Printed a pair of belt tensioners for my Ender 3, looks cool! Spent several hours installing it and it broke immediately. Oops! Gotta spend tomorrow installing the metal stuff again.
Oh brilliant
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I have a dumb question! On the Ender 3, should the build plate be truly centered?
Like it isn't a real problem where it is, I guess. Just wondering if I'm losing print space with it where it is.
Oh brilliant
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Man, that was no end of struggle for me, though ultimately it was the Z that was my biggest problem. Wound up having to cut the little bar that holds the stopper and manually fiddle with it for an hour until it was at the right height for 0. I think X/Y is more a matter of the motor being out of alignment or something, but I'll leave that to better educated heads than mine (also I fixed this a few months ago now and genuinely don't have a great recollection :P ).
I have a dumb question! On the Ender 3, should the build plate be truly centered?
Like it isn't a real problem where it is, I guess. Just wondering if I'm losing print space with it where it is.
It doesn't need to be centered, but I would have the x/y limits adjusted and have the print area in the slicer software set so you don't print right up to the edge of the build plate like that. Based on the location of the initial wipe strip, I think your x limit switch is fine, but I think you might want to move the y limit switch forward so the bed doesn't stop so far back (so it starts printing away from the front edge of the plate). And that's because I would think you would also want some clips to hold the glass build plate to the bed so it doesn't accidentally shift during a print. However, as those clips take up space along the edge, and you definitely don't want the print head running into them, you want that y limit moved far enough to avoid the clips along the front edge of the build plate. Once that's done, then you adjust the size of the build area in the slicer so you define the top and right edges of the build area that also avoids any edge clips you have. Since you will know the exact position of 0,0 when you tell it to home, you can just measure the size you need from that point without needing trial and error or risking damage.
Also, assuming that's a default test pattern off the included sd card, that file would no longer be safe to use if you find you do need to shrink the safe print area since that object has not been run through your slicer with your updated, safe print area settings. You would need to modify it, download a different one, or create your own test pattern file and slice it so it knows where the new limits are.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
What's the easiest/simplest way to split a model in two?
I'm trying to print a proxy 40k tank in parts so that my printer doesn't have to run 48 hours straight and largely unsupervised (It's never had an issue but I still don't trust it that much as far as fire hazards go)
I've tried doing it with meshmixer but I just cannot get it to work properly. It either discards half of the cut when it's set to keep both or it doesn't plane cut properly.
I'm totally game to try other software cuz meshmixer is frustrating as hell.
I'm thinking I'm gonna do a partial tear down of my IIIP. Still have the worst time with bed leveling/adhesion. Bed was always a little off (one side level screw way up one side way down). After I moved it's been a lot worse. I can't barely print anything with a base bigger than 2"sq
I'm having this issue now too after a few years. I wonder if it needs a tune up/move to a different surface. Also $200 gets you a nice replacement printer these days...
I'm thinking I'm gonna do a partial tear down of my IIIP. Still have the worst time with bed leveling/adhesion. Bed was always a little off (one side level screw way up one side way down). After I moved it's been a lot worse. I can't barely print anything with a base bigger than 2"sq
I'm having this issue now too after a few years. I wonder if it needs a tune up/move to a different surface. Also $200 gets you a nice replacement printer these days...
Turned out my son, having seen me previously use a glue stick on painters tape as my printing surface, had rubbed glue sticks straight on the build surface. Once I cleaned it all off with rubbing alcohol all my adhesion problems cleared.
I'm thinking I'm gonna do a partial tear down of my IIIP. Still have the worst time with bed leveling/adhesion. Bed was always a little off (one side level screw way up one side way down). After I moved it's been a lot worse. I can't barely print anything with a base bigger than 2"sq
I'm having this issue now too after a few years. I wonder if it needs a tune up/move to a different surface. Also $200 gets you a nice replacement printer these days...
Turned out my son, having seen me previously use a glue stick on painters tape as my printing surface, had rubbed glue sticks straight on the build surface. Once I cleaned it all off with rubbing alcohol all my adhesion problems cleared.
Also I added an idiot cheat sheet for myself.
*snip*
I completely forgot that I wasn't using anything on my build surface before now and had bought some glue sticks specifically to finally give those a try. You just reminded me. I have this horrible cycle:
1. I tend to run my printer endlessly for days/weeks
2. It breaks down(which I get, im not even mad, this is generally a fun hobby)
3. sometimes I can't fix it in 20 minutes
4. I brood for 3-6 months and forget its in the closet
5. I realize the answer/replace a part and fix it in 21 minutes
6. goto 1
My collection of ominous phallic objects is growing!
The thumb fits well on the pinky as well - the longer finger was pretty hard to move when on the pinky, so might go for the short finger on the thumb and pinky.
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited May 2020
I designed a printable stand for mecha models! 3mm peg for HG and SD Gundams and 30MM kits. Pylon just snaps into the base to make a single rigid item, no fancy swivels or anything.
If anyone wants to try printing it out you can download the .STL here. I'd really like to know if there's any obvious problems so I can iterate on it. I also anticipate having to adjust the snap points slightly to fit together better.
Ianator on
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
Decided to print a second thumb at 95% scale for the pinky, wearing the full-sized finger on the pinky was quite the workout and a very loose fit. Two more full-size fingers and I have a fist! Going to do those in the final fancy filament though and then reprint these in that.
Posts
These feet seem like they would be helpful to print ^
I don't know yet if I'll need the fan housing or the spool holder, so I guess I'll ask for those as needed when I actually get the thing delivered.
Oh i should probably print one of those. I solved this problem by getting an extension cable for the slot, thinking that I'd probably try to relocate the box to the back of the printer anyway - so having an extender seemed like the better idea at the time.
...six months later and the box hasnt moved soo yeah.
I modeled my first part using this guy's videos! I was even able to troubleshoot why I was getting an error and the cut-through wasn't working. I'm way more excited about modeling a plastic box than is probably normal!
Also Creality stepping up their game for the new Ender 3 model, actually shipping with TMC stepper drivers so they're nice and quiet out of the box, generally looking like a more finished product that needs less tinkering.
Steam ID: Good Life
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
...so I went and found a model I can print.
I whipped up a batch of ear savers of a couple types to see if her and her coworkers can benefit from them but I'm game if there's a better model out there before I start printing hundreds of the things.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I found set up to be easy. I'll be printing more this week so I'll post more photos
He wanted the print to pause partway through so he could swap filaments but the printer didn't do it. Fortunately a few minutes with a Sharpie worked fine.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
Well I set mine up in our basement which is petty big and the table with the printer is between two windows. Opened both windows up and I can only smell fumes when I'm right on top of the machine
Steam ID: Good Life
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Steam ID: Good Life
https://3dprint.nih.gov/collections/covid-19-response
I'll print up another one tomorrow from the Octoprint directly, just so I have hard numbers.
Steam ID: Good Life
But this was a more boxy print than my last very round prints. Interest into see for that factors in.
I wonder if the gcode manipulation from Octolapse she things down even more.
Need more data, need more tests.
Edit: a previously 24 hour print clocked 9:30. I feel like after 6 months I've finally really doing things right.
Steam ID: Good Life
Like it isn't a real problem where it is, I guess. Just wondering if I'm losing print space with it where it is.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
It doesn't need to be centered, but I would have the x/y limits adjusted and have the print area in the slicer software set so you don't print right up to the edge of the build plate like that. Based on the location of the initial wipe strip, I think your x limit switch is fine, but I think you might want to move the y limit switch forward so the bed doesn't stop so far back (so it starts printing away from the front edge of the plate). And that's because I would think you would also want some clips to hold the glass build plate to the bed so it doesn't accidentally shift during a print. However, as those clips take up space along the edge, and you definitely don't want the print head running into them, you want that y limit moved far enough to avoid the clips along the front edge of the build plate. Once that's done, then you adjust the size of the build area in the slicer so you define the top and right edges of the build area that also avoids any edge clips you have. Since you will know the exact position of 0,0 when you tell it to home, you can just measure the size you need from that point without needing trial and error or risking damage.
Also, assuming that's a default test pattern off the included sd card, that file would no longer be safe to use if you find you do need to shrink the safe print area since that object has not been run through your slicer with your updated, safe print area settings. You would need to modify it, download a different one, or create your own test pattern file and slice it so it knows where the new limits are.
I'm trying to print a proxy 40k tank in parts so that my printer doesn't have to run 48 hours straight and largely unsupervised (It's never had an issue but I still don't trust it that much as far as fire hazards go)
I've tried doing it with meshmixer but I just cannot get it to work properly. It either discards half of the cut when it's set to keep both or it doesn't plane cut properly.
I'm totally game to try other software cuz meshmixer is frustrating as hell.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Thanks very much, that was dead easy with prusaslicer.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Pretty neat things in there, and I may have to try a few things on the CNC
I'm having this issue now too after a few years. I wonder if it needs a tune up/move to a different surface. Also $200 gets you a nice replacement printer these days...
Saturday:
Thinking I'll buy some fancier-looking dark gray filament and work on an actual Halloween outfit for this year.
Had to wear it on a glove because this was designed for sausage fingers and I have Slenderman fingers.
Turned out my son, having seen me previously use a glue stick on painters tape as my printing surface, had rubbed glue sticks straight on the build surface. Once I cleaned it all off with rubbing alcohol all my adhesion problems cleared.
Also I added an idiot cheat sheet for myself.
Steam ID: Good Life
I completely forgot that I wasn't using anything on my build surface before now and had bought some glue sticks specifically to finally give those a try. You just reminded me. I have this horrible cycle:
1. I tend to run my printer endlessly for days/weeks
2. It breaks down(which I get, im not even mad, this is generally a fun hobby)
3. sometimes I can't fix it in 20 minutes
4. I brood for 3-6 months and forget its in the closet
5. I realize the answer/replace a part and fix it in 21 minutes
6. goto 1
The thumb fits well on the pinky as well - the longer finger was pretty hard to move when on the pinky, so might go for the short finger on the thumb and pinky.
I designed a printable stand for mecha models! 3mm peg for HG and SD Gundams and 30MM kits. Pylon just snaps into the base to make a single rigid item, no fancy swivels or anything.
If anyone wants to try printing it out you can download the .STL here. I'd really like to know if there's any obvious problems so I can iterate on it. I also anticipate having to adjust the snap points slightly to fit together better.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List