[3D Printing] A toy to build toys...New to the hobby....

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  • GvzbgulGvzbgul Ask me about my scrotalist agenda Registered User regular
    edited June 17
    Since I got it working I've been printing nonstop (minus the times when it finishes a print before I wake up/get home from work). Curgently printing the skulls from Devil Daggers. I did the basic skull a few years back and had meant to get around to the rest of the mobs but just didn't. So I'm fixing that now.

    Size?
    r0n64b5psl5i.jpg

    Working my way up the skulls to give me time to figure out the multipart spawners and spiders. Spiders aren't so hard, I need to pose them and arrange the limbs. But I havent found an arrangement that I'm happy with yet. It just looks so different when they arent towering over you.

    The spawners are an easy print but I need to work out how to model the tentacles.

    Edit- still getting branches. But they've mostly gone away.

    Gvzbgul on
  • KleinKlein Registered User regular
    I just bought my first FDM 3D printer, a Prusa Mini, and I am happy with it. The quality is excellent, and after some experimenting with nozzle temperature settings, my prints look great. I really enjoy that the setup and cleanup of the printer is so easy. For my old job, I worked on the formulation of resins for resin-based printing and I can still recall the smells. I kind of miss dealing with the chemistry behind the resins, and the resolution was incredible (50 microns!), but I think this printer will hold me over.

  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    edited June 21
    Stepper motors typically go down to 0.04mm, aka 40 microns.

    Have fun waiting on that print though.

    Echo on
    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • KleinKlein Registered User regular
    I'm looking for some advice on nozzle printing temperatures with PLA. Is there anything else I can look at to stop stringing and blobbing besides adjusting the nozzle temperature? When I tried printing with prusament filament at 210 C, it came out fine. However, when using a 3rd party filament I experienced a ton of stringing and blobbing. To fix this, I kept lowering the nozzle temperature down to 175 C and the blobs are gone and I see minimal stringing. Does this seem unusual? I am aware layer adhesion could be an issue, but I'm printing for looks, not strength. I would love to see if there is a difference in the molecular mass between these filaments.

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    While I haven't gotten Cura configured on my computer yet, it's still on my old one, so I did a bit of file jumping last night, dusted off the 3D printer and let it rip. Working on a board game insert I made, though I think the infill setting might have been high. I even adjusted the layer height to be 0.12, but it seems to have made no difference in the "boy these take longer than expected" respect. 42% after 9:48. There's definitely something incorrect about my configuration somewhere. Ah well. Cross fingers that the print is at least good. ;P

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited June 26
    Update: Heh, a few "darn it"s.
    - My infil was definitely way too high. I needlessly made a block of plastic. I need to revisit my settings on the next attempt.
    - Several of my measurements aren't holding up. I was working within mms though, so this feels like a case of the material shrinking a bit more than I anticipated. I'll go back and compensate in the source.
    - I dropped something and accidentally punched the forward Y-arm of the Ender when I reflexively tried to grab it. I have bruised my knuckle and caused the print to skew slightly to one side. Good thing I had to abandon it anyway. XD

    On the plus side, I'm feeling good about the printer's setup basically having held up and not needing any adjustment. My bed adhesion was also totally fine, and the fillament doesn't seem to be suffering for having sat out for months. Printy-printy~ :D

    [Edit]
    Boy, temperamental today. I turned it on after making my file adjustments, and the fan was locked down to 39% speed. For no reason. I turned it off and turned it on again and everything is fine. Sure. :P
    Cura says 8 hours for the new print. Lets see what the printer has to say ...

    ArcticLancer on
    Elvenshae
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited June 27
    Conclusion: 3D printing is still baller~
    pbhyr8nlrp8l.jpg
    hf7mrkjxwg9h.jpg
    i6on7zzabfto.jpg
    szh75u6zp50t.jpg
    Cura estimated somewhere just over 8 hours for each, and the two halves took 9 and change a piece, so it was certainly a lot closer than other estimates I've gotten.

    I didn't realize there was an error with my mesh after my corrections, which resulted in the connectors I had built into the two halves not existing and the rails ending at right angles. This lead to a 5 minute job of making a set of connectors, and they honestly probably work better than my original idea. =_= Kind of annoying since I have fixed the mesh, so I can't really replicate that now, and thus the original idea remains untested. Welp, that's only a problem if I distribute the files later I guess. :P

    I could absolutely refine this, but I don't feel the need. It was a great exercise and I'm happy with the result. Plenty of other things I should think about 3D printing anyway. Might be time to revisit the brush holder I'd made to work on those improvements I always wanted to make ... :D

    ArcticLancer on
    IanatorTomantaKhraultsmvengy
  • IanatorIanator Delightfully mediocre! Registered User regular
    Good news: I finally got my Gundam model stands printed!
    GLztZLw.jpg

    ...Bad news: I really need to adjust some of the measurements.
    4rBoQEc.jpg
    G1mkyvi.jpg
    sun0Z2K.jpg

    The arm doesn't sit flush with the base. That keeps the clip from hooking onto the bottom which means it fits very loose. These aren't able to display anything without long enough legs to stand themselves up (like the Portanova above). I will probably have to lengthen (and probably thicken) the clips and/or widen the slot on the base.

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  • GvzbgulGvzbgul Ask me about my scrotalist agenda Registered User regular
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3906053

    Most stuff on the main page is useless knick-knacks. But every so often something comes along that I need to print.

    RadiationEchoElvenshae
  • djmitchelladjmitchella Registered User regular
    Finally printed out something useful, rather than just fun; clips to hold a bit of window blind in place, because the existing ones had mostly snapped with age. Original on the left, replacements on the right. (via this thingiverse model)

    IMkfpgq.jpg

    IanatorbloodatonementRadiationBucketman
  • bloodatonementbloodatonement Registered User regular
    I did the opposite. Took a break from making useful stuff to make something fun.
    cjpu7jssdgsk.jpg

    Zdy0pmg.jpg
    Steam ID: Good Life
    GvzbgulArcticLancerRadiationElvenshaeBucketman
  • IanatorIanator Delightfully mediocre! Registered User regular
    Just got another couple of stands printed. My friend was having quite a few "failures", though he didn't elaborate on exactly how, but one of the final bases is warped a bit. The pieces also seem to be curving? shrinking? a bit on the side attached to the build plate. What are these symptoms of, and how can we prevent this from happening in future prints? He has an Artillery Sidewinder X1 I believe.

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  • RadiationRadiation Registered User regular
    Could be the filament is cooling too quickly? Is the bed heated?

    PSN: jfrofl
  • bloodatonementbloodatonement Registered User regular
    I had that problem. I fixed it with the combination of increasing the build plate temperature, more precise leveling and making sure to use a bed adhesive each print.

    Zdy0pmg.jpg
    Steam ID: Good Life
  • GvzbgulGvzbgul Ask me about my scrotalist agenda Registered User regular
    Any tips for finding a bad connection in a wire? My wires to my heater in the nozzle aren't working. I thought it was near the nozzle at first, as jiggling the wires could turn it on and off. But now I'm thinking it might be at the circuit end? I don't feel like buying a new element as the element still works. I'm gonna go over it with a multimeter tonight.

  • EchoEcho Moderator mod

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
    Elvenshae
  • GvzbgulGvzbgul Ask me about my scrotalist agenda Registered User regular
    Alright. I need some help finding the issue with my printer. I've done some replacement parts after a few bits broke and now I'm having a heating issue.

    The hotend is capping out at about 157-160c. Initially I thought I'd bought a 24v cartridge (my printer is 12v). However, I've bought a 12v cartridge and I'm still having the same issue.

    I also replaced my thermistor. However the thermistor ran for a week with no issues before my heater cartridge wiring broke. So I doubt that is the issue.

    I have also replaced the aluminum block and it is a slightly different style. However all the bits fit it and it's a block of aluminum. Seems like that is no big deal.

    I'm gonna borrow my work's infrared camera tonight and see if there's an issue with the thermistor getting improper readings. It'll hopefully let me see which parts are or aren't heating.

    Has anyone had a similar problem problem?

  • EchoEcho Moderator mod
    There are different types of thermistors, you may need to tweak your firmware to match the thermistor type so it gets accurate readings.

    Echo wrote: »
    Let they who have not posted about their balls in the wrong thread cast the first stone.
  • GvzbgulGvzbgul Ask me about my scrotalist agenda Registered User regular
    I've run a check with the IR camera and my thermistor is giving the right readings. Still capping out at about 150. Could be a wiring issue, although its not the heater cartridge cables because they're band new. So maybe it is in the chip board? The heater runs continuously. Some other people have had a similar problem with heating that was linked to the heater turning off prematurely, but the red light for mine is on continuously so in theory it is attempting to heat all the time but can't get over 150ish. I'll take my board apart and see if there is a loose connection, maybe in the attachment point for the wires.

  • bloodatonementbloodatonement Registered User regular
    edited August 9
    Left: Printed with the Cura settings I had messed with over the last couple months
    Right: default profile with a doubled top and bottom layer size. And was nearly twice as fast.

    I need to not mess with my settings so much.
    8zeg46byd7rd.jpg

    bloodatonement on
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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Feel like I need to keep playing with my settings. I downloaded an STL from Hero Forge, and I just didn't get the detail I'd like from my print. It's not bad, it's just not getting some of that fine detail

  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Hey thread.

    I've been considering a 3d printer for a while, but specifically want a resin printer for high-detail work. I see that Anycubic has the Photon up for sale at a price that's super-reachable for me.

    As a first-time 3d printer duder, what are some things I should consider before I invest in this? I'm already aware of the time (setup, learning curve, education on 3d tool programs) and space (room to place it, cleanup area, ventilation) investments, in addition to the toxicity issue of resin (planning to get low-tox resins where I can) and post-print work (light curing and washing of uncured resin). Anything I'm missing or should be aware of?

    For reference, I'm a modeling and wargame hobbyist and have owned and operated a Glowforge laser machine for two years now. None of the above is particularly frightful to me, but I want to be sure I'm going in 100% eyes open before I invest in another hobby.

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  • mightyjongyomightyjongyo Registered User regular
    I think you got the major points. I would maybe look at reviews to see how easy the printers you're looking at are to maintain - leveling the bed, cleaning, updating firmware, installing custom mods (though I think this is far less common on resin printers?) - some of these points may be nonstarters depending on how much time you want to spend tweaking your printer.

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