Welp, no sooner had I mentioned my Kobra Neo working well than it up and decided to fuck up. Z-axis is slipping while printing. It's done this before but the usual methods of making sure the wheel screws are tight aren't working.
Basically, if I send a command to raise it it works fine. If I raise it manually it works fine but while printing it either barely moves or doesn't move on layer changes. There's a loud click and it just smashes the next layer into the previous one.
Whatever. Bambu A1 combo is in the mail. If I can fix the Neo then bully for me but I'm not gonna sweat it. Super excited for this A1.
I don't know your motor and lead screw specs to tell you the exact number, but could your layer height be set less than the minimum step size the motors are capable of? That would lead to the motors failing to change position when commanded. The fact you can successfully do a continuous raise with the motors without issue would lead me to think the problem is not slippage of the clamps.
This happens printing at 0.2mm which is well over the minimum for this motor which I believe is 0.04.
I've been printing largely successfully for 2+ years at 0.2mm. But who knows, I've been running it almost constantly the whole time I've had it, I'm sure something needs to be replaced. I have a few things left to try.
Mostly I'd like to fix it so it will be in working order so I can give it to someone who wants to get into printing. Giving someone a non-functional printer would be a dick move - unless I charge hundreds of dollars for the privilege like most printer manufacturers!
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited June 30
I think I've found the issue. The shaft coupler that ensures that the z-axis rod rotates when the stepper motor turns was slipping at the lower connection (that connects to the motor). This would explain why manually turning the coupler to raise/lower the gantry worked fine.
Oddly, when the motion was smooth (like sending some gcode to raise 10mm) there was no issue, it was only when there was a "hop" upwards like a layer change that the motor would step but the coupler would not turn leading to layers being smashed into each other.
I replaced the coupler and it seems to be working now. Fingers crossed!
EDIT: Update - I was still getting about 4 slips per print of a test cube after my "fix" so I trammed the x-gantry again but the slips remained. What I ended up doing was flashing the stock firmware (I hadn't changed anything, so I had nothing to lose) and no more slips on the test cube. Weird but I'll take it. I just started a Benchy and so far it looks flawless.
That first new print after you've figured out a nagging problem is glorious
+4
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
From left to right, general "does it print at all?" cube, filament flow rate test, Benchy
Aside from some minor stringing because it's a DC summer and I used shit filament that I hate that's a damn nice Benchy if you ask me! I'm calling this one fixed.
Going to be printing PETG for the first time this week, any tips or things likely to trip me up coming from pla?
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
Also depending on your printer bed you'll want to use glue, not for bed adhesion, the opposite really, PETG can bond so well to glass that it'll rip pieces out of your bed trying to remove it, a layer of glue acts as a barrier to stop it sticking too well.
Also depending on your printer bed you'll want to use glue, not for bed adhesion, the opposite really, PETG can bond so well to glass that it'll rip pieces out of your bed trying to remove it, a layer of glue acts as a barrier to stop it sticking too well.
Just got a flexible magnetic bed but will keep this in mind.
Going to be printing PETG for the first time this week, any tips or things likely to trip me up coming from pla?
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
Man i was hoping to hear it could go faster not slower. Guess i will have to dial it in.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Also depending on your printer bed you'll want to use glue, not for bed adhesion, the opposite really, PETG can bond so well to glass that it'll rip pieces out of your bed trying to remove it, a layer of glue acts as a barrier to stop it sticking too well.
Just got a flexible magnetic bed but will keep this in mind.
Going to be printing PETG for the first time this week, any tips or things likely to trip me up coming from pla?
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
Man i was hoping to hear it could go faster not slower. Guess i will have to dial it in.
I also just remembered - run your part cooling fan way lower. Like 60% tops after like layer 5. I mostly do it at 30-50%. I feel like lower cooling requirements should allow for faster speeds so fuck it, try running a test print faster. What have you got to lose?
Also depending on your printer bed you'll want to use glue, not for bed adhesion, the opposite really, PETG can bond so well to glass that it'll rip pieces out of your bed trying to remove it, a layer of glue acts as a barrier to stop it sticking too well.
Just got a flexible magnetic bed but will keep this in mind.
Going to be printing PETG for the first time this week, any tips or things likely to trip me up coming from pla?
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
Man i was hoping to hear it could go faster not slower. Guess i will have to dial it in.
I also just remembered - run your part cooling fan way lower. Like 60% tops after like layer 5. I mostly do it at 30-50%. I feel like lower cooling requirements should allow for faster speeds so fuck it, try running a test print faster. What have you got to lose?
I am not sure how to set that in cura on a per layer basis. Or should i just watch it and set it myself.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Also depending on your printer bed you'll want to use glue, not for bed adhesion, the opposite really, PETG can bond so well to glass that it'll rip pieces out of your bed trying to remove it, a layer of glue acts as a barrier to stop it sticking too well.
Just got a flexible magnetic bed but will keep this in mind.
Going to be printing PETG for the first time this week, any tips or things likely to trip me up coming from pla?
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
Man i was hoping to hear it could go faster not slower. Guess i will have to dial it in.
I also just remembered - run your part cooling fan way lower. Like 60% tops after like layer 5. I mostly do it at 30-50%. I feel like lower cooling requirements should allow for faster speeds so fuck it, try running a test print faster. What have you got to lose?
I am not sure how to set that in cura on a per layer basis. Or should i just watch it and set it myself.
All slicers I've used let you set an initial fan speed and tell it which layer to have the fan at working speed.
For example, my PLA profile has the fan off for later 1 and ramps up to 100% by layer 3.
Looks like cooling > initial fan speed 0%, then set regular fan speed at layer to 5 or whatever and set regular fan speed to 30-50%. All under cooling I think. It will handle the math for those initial layers.
I haven't used Cura in a while, once I got my head around PrusaSlicer I can't go back.
For printing PETG, I have to switch to Prusa's ''textured' flexible surface, because it sticks to the 'smooth' plate too well otherwise. (which only happened once and I got things apart okay, but it was pretty nerve-wracking until I did).
This P1S is a fucking dream machine. So extremely happy.
Pretty sure it's overkill for what I will use it for and a P1 (whichever is the enclosed one) would do, but yes, the X1C is quite awesome.
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
I kind of regret getting the A1 (which is scheduled to be delivered tomorrow!) over the P1S even though I will only print PLA and PETG and maybe one day TPU.
It just seemed that the A1, being newer, had more QOL stuff. If we get a P2S or whatever in the next year+ I'm all over it.
minor incidentexpert in a dying fieldnjRegistered Userregular
I always feel the most amazed by 3D printing when I print some boring, simple thing in 10 minutes instead of having to run to a hardware store. Done a lot of custom sized washers, shim for installing cabinets and countertops, cable management clip, chip clips, stuff like that.
Today I'm working on repairing a dead cassette deck, and after replacing some caps and re-soldering the power cable, it was turning on but not moving. Turns out there was a motor belt that needed replacing. With no hope of tracking down the appropriate belt without hunting something down on ebay I decided to try digging out some 2 year old TPU and printing my own.
Print took like 5 minutes, and on the second try I got the length perfect, and it works.
Ah, it stinks, it sucks, it's anthropologically unjust
Designing stuff is the one aspect i have not really touched yet. I have followed a few tutorials in Tinkercad and i have blender installed but they are both pretty intimidating. Also my first PETG print was fucking perfect. Thanks for the tips everyone! It is a trophy for the hot dog eating contest this Saturday.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
+7
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
edited July 3
I designed a handle for holding minis while I paint them. I went all out and created threaded attachments to hold different size bases or small parts. So satisfying.
Designing and printing a functional item that would have been a trip and purchase is just the most amazing feeling and a large part of the reason I can envision a future when an FDM printer is as common a household appliance as a microwave. The leaps we've seen in usability and reliability in the last few years has been crazy.
Resin less so. The ease of setup is there nowadays but unless we see a water-washable actually non-toxic resin that can be rinsed down the drain I just don't see it being anything more than niche.
In other news my A1 arrived and is running through the calibrations now!
I designed a handle for holding minis while I paint them. I went all out and created threaded attachments to hold different size bases or small parts. So satisfying.
Designing and printing a functional item that would have been a trip and purchase is just the most amazing feeling and a large part of the reason I can envision a future when an FDM printer is as common a household appliance as a microwave. The leaps we've seen in usability and reliability in the last few years has been crazy.
Resin less so. The ease of setup is there nowadays but unless we see a water-washable actually non-toxic resin that can be rinsed down the drain I just don't see it being anything more than niche.
In other news my A1 arrived and is running through the calibrations now!
EDIT: Uh this thing fast yall
By my estimation my buddies A1 mini is literally 6 times faster than my Ender3v2 clone. 6 times. Which is both a testament to how fast it is and an indictment of how slow mine is lol.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Benchy:
- Kobra Neo: 1h30m
- A1: 15m
So yeah literally 6x faster for me. Also the whole 'just works' thing is ... really something.
No each color was printed separately. It only took a few hours though as opposed to days like when I made a Megatron on my old printer.
One downside is that the dimensional accuracy is so good on the A1 that the joints are pretty loose. Optimus when right together, Megatron required a ton of sanding and force.
Well i had a huge issue when i woke up this morning. Z axis doing pretty much exactly what Dr_Keenbean's printer was doing. Going to try and tighten my grub screws when I get home and see if that fixes it. Somehow it managed to get the nozzle out of the print head. I am really fucking hoping it somehow just unscrewed it and didn't rip it out and fuck up the threads.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Well i had a huge issue when i woke up this morning. Z axis doing pretty much exactly what Dr_Keenbean's printer was doing. Going to try and tighten my grub screws when I get home and see if that fixes it. Somehow it managed to get the nozzle out of the print head. I am really fucking hoping it somehow just unscrewed it and didn't rip it out and fuck up the threads.
I'm making a Gridfinity tray for some hex drivers. I've got things located, now I want to cut the drivers plus ~1mm of extra space around them out of the tray. How do?
I've figured out how to do the actual cut, but not how to add the extra spacing first. I made a rough model of the drivers themselves, not the volume I want to cut.
Well i had a huge issue when i woke up this morning. Z axis doing pretty much exactly what Dr_Keenbean's printer was doing. Going to try and tighten my grub screws when I get home and see if that fixes it. Somehow it managed to get the nozzle out of the print head. I am really fucking hoping it somehow just unscrewed it and didn't rip it out and fuck up the threads.
It ripped the nozzle out? Yikes that sounds bad.
So the nozzle was not ripped out. Somehow it managed to unscrew it. Got it back up and running now. Pretty sure it was bad g-code somehow. Also the head of the camp i am volunteering at just dropped off an Orion gantry printer. Not sure i can troubleshoot two printers at once lol.
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
Well i had a huge issue when i woke up this morning. Z axis doing pretty much exactly what Dr_Keenbean's printer was doing. Going to try and tighten my grub screws when I get home and see if that fixes it. Somehow it managed to get the nozzle out of the print head. I am really fucking hoping it somehow just unscrewed it and didn't rip it out and fuck up the threads.
It ripped the nozzle out? Yikes that sounds bad.
So the nozzle was not ripped out. Somehow it managed to unscrew it. Got it back up and running now. Pretty sure it was bad g-code somehow. Also the head of the camp i am volunteering at just dropped off an Orion gantry printer. Not sure i can troubleshoot two printers at once lol.
It's funny you mention bad gcode. I have come to the conclusion that my issue was caused by the gcode that OrcaSlicer produces, even with the same known good settings I use on other slicers. Similarly, I had always had very mild under-extrusion issues when I used to use Cura that went away once I switched to PrusaSlicer. I chalk that up to ignorance though, since I was pretty new at this back then.
Correlation is not causation but it's pretty damning when I can make the sporadic z-smush issue happen 100% of the time by printing a file sliced in OrcaSlicer then printing a file sliced in something else and then it goes away completely once I flash the firmware again.
OK, this is actually super neat. The Bambu Lab slicer (and presumably Orca Slicer) is aware of the infill, so it starts to print the bottom layers appropriately aligned to the infill.
Ug now my printer keeps giving me thermal runaway errors. Two PID tunes with 10 cycles each for the hotend and the bed and it keeps doing it. I guess the thermister might have been damaged somehow but i would think it would fail during the PID tune. Going to try reseating the wires into the block and hope that fixes it.
Could you add in a bit of extra depth under the back third(maybe?) of the handles, so you could push down on the end and it'd pivot up to make it easier to grab?
Good news: The screw in thermistor is working like a dream.
Bad news: The Orion printer my camp counselor gave me had a blocked hot end, blocked nozzle, needed to be completely recalibrated, and the menu screens suck ass.
I did eventually get it printing but i absolutely see why corexy replaced pretty much all delta printers. I thought my printer was finicky but holy shit. And the UI is some hot garbage. Pretty much requires you to connect it to a PC to work. Despite all that it is still faster than mine though .
furlion on
Gamertag: KL Retribution
PSN:Furlion
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
We're about 2 weeks in to my switch to Bambu. I've spent nearly 100% of my time printing cool shit and not tinkering. Really happy with my decision.
Posts
This happens printing at 0.2mm which is well over the minimum for this motor which I believe is 0.04.
I've been printing largely successfully for 2+ years at 0.2mm. But who knows, I've been running it almost constantly the whole time I've had it, I'm sure something needs to be replaced. I have a few things left to try.
Mostly I'd like to fix it so it will be in working order so I can give it to someone who wants to get into printing. Giving someone a non-functional printer would be a dick move - unless I charge hundreds of dollars for the privilege like most printer manufacturers!
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Oddly, when the motion was smooth (like sending some gcode to raise 10mm) there was no issue, it was only when there was a "hop" upwards like a layer change that the motor would step but the coupler would not turn leading to layers being smashed into each other.
I replaced the coupler and it seems to be working now. Fingers crossed!
EDIT: Update - I was still getting about 4 slips per print of a test cube after my "fix" so I trammed the x-gantry again but the slips remained. What I ended up doing was flashing the stock firmware (I hadn't changed anything, so I had nothing to lose) and no more slips on the test cube. Weird but I'll take it. I just started a Benchy and so far it looks flawless.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Aside from some minor stringing because it's a DC summer and I used shit filament that I hate that's a damn nice Benchy if you ask me! I'm calling this one fixed.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
PSN:Furlion
I've only used PETG a bit but my takeaways so far:
- Be ready for lots of stringing
- Don't smash the first layer, PLA likes that, PETG doesn't
- Temperature and retraction tuning are a must
- Print slower than you would PLA
- I'm not kidding about the stringing
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Just got a flexible magnetic bed but will keep this in mind.
Man i was hoping to hear it could go faster not slower. Guess i will have to dial it in.
PSN:Furlion
I also just remembered - run your part cooling fan way lower. Like 60% tops after like layer 5. I mostly do it at 30-50%. I feel like lower cooling requirements should allow for faster speeds so fuck it, try running a test print faster. What have you got to lose?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I am not sure how to set that in cura on a per layer basis. Or should i just watch it and set it myself.
PSN:Furlion
All slicers I've used let you set an initial fan speed and tell it which layer to have the fan at working speed.
For example, my PLA profile has the fan off for later 1 and ramps up to 100% by layer 3.
Looks like cooling > initial fan speed 0%, then set regular fan speed at layer to 5 or whatever and set regular fan speed to 30-50%. All under cooling I think. It will handle the math for those initial layers.
I haven't used Cura in a while, once I got my head around PrusaSlicer I can't go back.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Pretty sure it's overkill for what I will use it for and a P1 (whichever is the enclosed one) would do, but yes, the X1C is quite awesome.
It just seemed that the A1, being newer, had more QOL stuff. If we get a P2S or whatever in the next year+ I'm all over it.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Today I'm working on repairing a dead cassette deck, and after replacing some caps and re-soldering the power cable, it was turning on but not moving. Turns out there was a motor belt that needed replacing. With no hope of tracking down the appropriate belt without hunting something down on ebay I decided to try digging out some 2 year old TPU and printing my own.
Print took like 5 minutes, and on the second try I got the length perfect, and it works.
PSN:Furlion
Designing and printing a functional item that would have been a trip and purchase is just the most amazing feeling and a large part of the reason I can envision a future when an FDM printer is as common a household appliance as a microwave. The leaps we've seen in usability and reliability in the last few years has been crazy.
Resin less so. The ease of setup is there nowadays but unless we see a water-washable actually non-toxic resin that can be rinsed down the drain I just don't see it being anything more than niche.
In other news my A1 arrived and is running through the calibrations now!
EDIT: Uh this thing fast yall
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
By my estimation my buddies A1 mini is literally 6 times faster than my Ender3v2 clone. 6 times. Which is both a testament to how fast it is and an indictment of how slow mine is lol.
PSN:Furlion
- Kobra Neo: 1h30m
- A1: 15m
So yeah literally 6x faster for me. Also the whole 'just works' thing is ... really something.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
It's not quite "as simple as a microwave" level of household appliance... but we're getting there.
We're definitely not there yet, but compared to 5 years ago? Holy shit. I can definitely see that future in my lifetime.
Day 3 of my A1 experience and I'm in love. I printed an Optimus Prime figure for my nephew and it printed beautifully and crazy fast.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
No each color was printed separately. It only took a few hours though as opposed to days like when I made a Megatron on my old printer.
One downside is that the dimensional accuracy is so good on the A1 that the joints are pretty loose. Optimus when right together, Megatron required a ton of sanding and force.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I can recommend his channel if you're into nerdy home workshop things.
PSN:Furlion
It ripped the nozzle out? Yikes that sounds bad.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
I'm making a Gridfinity tray for some hex drivers. I've got things located, now I want to cut the drivers plus ~1mm of extra space around them out of the tray. How do?
I've figured out how to do the actual cut, but not how to add the extra spacing first. I made a rough model of the drivers themselves, not the volume I want to cut.
So the nozzle was not ripped out. Somehow it managed to unscrew it. Got it back up and running now. Pretty sure it was bad g-code somehow. Also the head of the camp i am volunteering at just dropped off an Orion gantry printer. Not sure i can troubleshoot two printers at once lol.
PSN:Furlion
It's funny you mention bad gcode. I have come to the conclusion that my issue was caused by the gcode that OrcaSlicer produces, even with the same known good settings I use on other slicers. Similarly, I had always had very mild under-extrusion issues when I used to use Cura that went away once I switched to PrusaSlicer. I chalk that up to ignorance though, since I was pretty new at this back then.
Correlation is not causation but it's pretty damning when I can make the sporadic z-smush issue happen 100% of the time by printing a file sliced in OrcaSlicer then printing a file sliced in something else and then it goes away completely once I flash the firmware again.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
PSN:Furlion
Considered adding finger cutouts, but they're still easy to pick up.
PSN:Furlion
Bad news: The Orion printer my camp counselor gave me had a blocked hot end, blocked nozzle, needed to be completely recalibrated, and the menu screens suck ass.
I did eventually get it printing but i absolutely see why corexy replaced pretty much all delta printers. I thought my printer was finicky but holy shit. And the UI is some hot garbage. Pretty much requires you to connect it to a PC to work. Despite all that it is still faster than mine though
PSN:Furlion
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Even nicer when the AMS switches over to the next spool of the same filament automatically.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705