I have a dog, and photographing him has kind of turned into somewhat of a hobby now. Normally I use my phone for that, but I'm starting to reach a point where I could probably get much better shots if I had a "real" camera. Maybe it's because my phone's about three years old and starting to slow down, but it takes long enough to take a photo that often times my dog has stopped doing the cute thing, blinked, or moved just enough that the picture's blurry.
Also, we kind of do this thing where I stick a some treats in a bunch of cardboard boxes, hide the boxes in other cardboard boxes, and he spends like 20 minutes opening and shredding everything. It's adorable, but every video I take of it kind of sucks because I can't get high enough to film that without moving back and forward constantly.
So basically, I'm looking for something with a lens I can adjust to get some quick shutter speed while also letting in a lot of light, that I can attach to a tripod and use to take decent video. From what I read, that sounds like a DSLR camera, but there's way too much information for me to sift through online to figure out what I should get and most of it's about vlogging.
I can afford to spend $1000 on this, but I'd prefer to not to go over $800 if possible. (This would be a birthday/Christmas/graduation gift from my grandfather. He always tells me to buy something I want, but it has to be a physical object and not an "experience" like a trip, lessons, show, dinner, etc. My grandma was really into photography and DSLR cameras last/are fixable, so this is also like, his ideal gift to give me.)
Is that doable? What kind of cameras should I be looking at?
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I shoot on a nikon 5300 body, which can be picked up for around $400 (throw in another $200 or so and you can get two kit lenses as well). For fast motion outdoors animal stuff, I like to use a fixed 35mm lens, since it lets a ton of light in.
Don't discount fixed lens bodies though. I played around with a fujifilm X100 recently and it took some incredible pictures. As it should, for over a grand. But you don't need to worry about buying and switching lenses that way.
One other recommendation is to get a good strap/sling for whatever you buy. I use a Blackrapid Breathe Curve, and love it. It's a bit pricey for a strap, but it's fantastic, and I don't think I could ever go back to using a normal strap.
Main advantage of mirrorless is comparable quality in smaller body, so if that's not a concern then yeah, a slightly older good DSLR is your best bet.
Here you want a fast shutter release. I'm not sure if mirrored edges out mirrorless or vice versa. I haven't been impressed with the mirrorless models I've tried (regarding shutter release speed\lag), but you should be able to get a good feel by going to a local camera store and playing with them. You will have to play with the settings to optimize this as in-cam processing will inform shot-to-shot times.
Here you need faster glass/lenses ($$$) or less processing in camera.
Zooming and composing with your feet is like the 1st thing you have to learn/practice in traditional photography. If you want fast glass with zoom you will pay $Texas for it. Kit lenses give you a very usuable zoom range. But low f prime will give you a lot more flexibility with available light shooting (no flash) or non-ideal conditions (your subject won't sit still), but that means you have to zoom/compose with your feet and not the lens.
Not sure how you're shooting your video, but that sounds like you need zoom? A tripod will give you another half to full (or more) stop over hand holding.
I would suggest buying a used Canon (probably Rebel line) and a plastic fantastic (50mm prime). And once you've become comfortable with manual shooting you still have enough in your budget for a decent used "normal" zoom. I'm sure there are equivalents in the Nikon line, I just don't know Nikon.
Keep in mind that different bodies have different sensor crops, and unless you're spending a ton on a full frame, you'll probably get an APS-C, which effectively means your 50mm lens gives a field of view equivalent to that of a 75mm lens, due to the 1.5x crop factor.
Add a tripod http://a.co/2KEcutL
And a fixed lens after you get familiar with the equipment, mentioned above I believe http://a.co/bHtqzwY
Or this one, if your budget can take it and you are wanting to shoot in darker places: http://a.co/f0oz4R8
Only because you want to do video, did I not recommend getting what I still shoot with, which is a Canon XSi. It's pushing 10 years old now and you can find them for like $100 used. But it doesn't do video. There are equivalents with Nikon, so it's worth it to ask your grandfather if there are lenses lying around, as that'd determine which company you want to go with since their lenses are not swappable between each other.
DSLR’s give you a lot of creative power, but you have to make knowledgeable choices based on your environment and subject in order to get the specific shot you are going for. For example, a “fast lens” has a low f-stop (big aperature), which means you can use a faster shutter speed for the same exposure as a slower lens. This can be good for photographing children and pets. However, they also have a very narrow depth of field, meaning that only a small range of distance will be in focus. This can be a nice effect when intentional (bokeh), but when trying to photograph fast moving subjects (again: children and pets) it can result in the subject moving out of focus and you getting a bunch of blurry pictures. A lot of terminology is being thrown around in this thread, but even basic camera functions may seem like Greek if you are coming from an iPhone (f-stop, ISO, Av, Tv, depth of field, etc).
If you don’t want to spend time learning such things, you may be disappointed with the pictures you take with a DSLR.
What you may be much happier with is a high-end “point and shoot.” They are designed to require minimal input to make the best shot prediction. And they are really good. Scary good.
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-PowerShot-Digital-Camera-Sensor/dp/B01BV14OXA/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1513839030&sr=1-3&keywords=canon+g7x+mark+ii
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-Cyber-shot-DSC-RX100-Digital-Camera/dp/B01MCRBY4X/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1513839130&sr=1-5&keywords=sony+rx100
Most importantly, there is a saying that the best camera is the one you use. A smaller pocket camera may be a much more frequently used camera than a large DSLR.
That being said, if you are excited about learning how to take better pictures (regardless of what camera your decide on), I can’t overstate the value of taking some classes. A lot of community art centers have single-day introductory digital photography course. They are awesome for learning about your new camera and getting some creative feedback on your pictures.
So what's going through my head right now:
With those things in mind, I think either a Canon EOS Rebel SL2 with a fixed lens or a Canon PowerShot G7 X Mark II might make the most sense. I'm leaning to the Rebel because I feel like I might drop the Powershot.
I would recommend the DSLR over the Powershot, especially since it is cheaper and offer nearly unlimited upgradeability. It has an EF mount for lenses, so you have a broad range of lenses you can buy should you ever want to expand your collection. If you have something like a Best Buy nearby, I do recommend going and picking up a few cameras to get a feel for each. Hold a regular Canon DSLR in the same price range as the SL2 and see how each feels. Maybe even feel a couple of Nikon models to compare and contrast.
Also, get yourself a carrying case. Other accessories that might be nice would be a timer, a tripod and maybe a couple of nice microfiber cloths. Amazon sells most of this and it is quite inexpensive. You'll maybe spend $75 for all the accessories I listed.
Stuff like filters are lens specific and you need to make sure that the lens has the correct size filter like 52 mm, 58 mm, etc., so you don't want to buy these until you are sure of what your lens will support.
My thinking with the Rebel EOS was that it seemed like would kind of cover everybody's concerns regarding the learning curve vs. usability. It's a DSLR, but supposed to be very good for beginners. I could use a fixed lens to start with, which I think would be more like what I already deal with using my phone. So I could focus on learning what aperture settings and shutter speed do.
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Also, I just want to note, my hesitance to go to a physical store has nothing to do with being lazy/not believing you guys. I injured my foot right before I was supposed to dog-sit. So it actually is tricky to get to a physical store at the moment.
I really appreciate the advice and intend to implement it if possible.
Are you planning on doing indoor video with the camera stationary? If so, be aware that wide angle fast primes or zooms can be particularly expensive; and that may be the type of lenses you need to capture indoor video of moving subjects. The crop factor on an APS-C "zooms" lenses by about 60% over their 35mm rating. That's a bit of an oversimplification, but shouldn't be important until you've had a good bit of experience using your equipment.
So if you have some specific types of pictures or recordings you want to take, that makes it even more important to put your hands on it, put your eye to it, swap out lenses, so you can compose your expected shots before you buy.
And regarding dropping, any decent camera (P&S or DSLR) will have a lanyard ring. You can get a lanyard that fits like a necklace instead of a bracelet. There are more involved strap systems as well as many pros have more than one rig on them.
Maybe? My thinking was, if I stuck the camera on a tripod and had the camera up high enough, I could get my entire living room in the shot and not have to move the camera. Would that need a wide-angle lens?
And actually, I have dropped cameras while wearing the wristlet. I've never work the necklace-type things (not sure how that'll work, given that purely synthetic fibers make me itch.) But the problem is that I have really sensitive skin. I can't wear a watch because the band will rub until it hurts and there's a bright red ring around my wrist (even if it's loose.)
When I'm using a camera lanyard I loosen the strap once it starts hurting, (or loosen it because I fiddle with things constantly.) Then the camera slips out of my fingers while my arm's down, and while I'm trying to catch it the strap comes off my wrist and I drop it. Luckily I've only done that with cheaper cameras, but the point is, I'm not good at stopping myself from doing stupid shit with cameras and I'd like to take that into account when I purchase one.
You can buy straps that work across the body. Think seat belt instead of necklace, so the only things it really touches is your hip and shoulder. With larger/longer straps you can put a sensitive seat belt fabric over them as well, or make your own sleeve with cutting up an old t-shirt or something. I don't have experience with cameras but I've had to do it with duffel/gym bag straps.
Mine has a locking carabiner, for example.
Having the camera's weight balanced on the hip and shoulder is way way more comfortable - especially when you're talking heavy zoom lenses.
Yup -- if you had the camera right in the very farthest part of the corner pointing towards the rest of the room, you'd need a 90 degree field of view to get the entire room in view, which is a 12mm lens on the nikon/canon cameras people are mentioning. That's certainly possible, but don't forget that if the camera's taking a photo of the entire room, the part of the image that actually contains your dog is going to be pretty small. (also, a lens that'll zoom out that wide won't zoom in enough to take photos of just your dog from the same position, so you'd probably need two lenses, not just one)
Honestly, you're trying to take pretty much the most technically difficult type of shot there is, because your subject and environment are both making things difficult:
(a "fast" lens (large aperture -> lets lots of light in) will let more light into the camera so it can focus more easily with less light, and it will let you take shorter exposures so you get less motion blur. But the more light that comes in, the more of that light is "out of focus light", so the less of your final image is in focus, so you have a better chance of your dog having moved out of the range that's in focus. I have made this mistake many times when taking photos of kids running around. Also, fast lenses cost more.)
In an ideal world, you'd get the same setup that people doing, say, basketball photography have, because you're trying basically the same sort of thing, ie taking photos of moving things that are happening very rapidly while indoors -- but that is expensive.
Alternative 2:
Get a 360 degree camera. Or at least 180. But I think with your desire to catch good shots of your dog, it makes a lot of sense. Then instead of focusing your attention on your fancy camera, you can focus it on, y'know, enjoying playing with your dog. Just try to face vaguely in the direction of the cam, and when you're picking out the best moments later, you can also unhurriedly decide on how to frame the shot.
Well within your budget too: https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-360-degree-camera/
I think you will need a wide angle for getting the whole living room and not having to move the camera. Interior shots in rental/real estate industry require a wide angle lens to get the whole room in view. As you seem to prefer canon I think you should check out the canon 24mm STM with whatever body (at a store) you are interested in. It's affordable for what you get, but it's not really "wide". It's on the shorter edge of "normal perspective" but it may get you what you need in your price range. However, since it is a prime (fixed focal length) it doesn't have near the flexibility as a kit lens or a faster normal zoom would have. To get a fast zoom that goes down further may set you back more than the camera body.
You can get cross body straps or various harnesses that allow you to drop the camera and not have the fabric contact your wrist or neck. It can get expensive fast, but usually there are cheaper alternatives to the premier brands.
I like the Canon EOS Rebel SL2 a lot. It's like the happy medium as far as size/weight go. Small enough that my tiny baby hands can handle it comfortably, but not as small and sleek as a point-and-shoot.
Cross body straps sound way better than a lanyard. (The collar idea would work great in theory but I don't own any shirts with collars.)
It sounds like my best option right now is to get a fixed-lens for video and a zoom for still photography. My apartment has a floor-to-ceiling sliding glass door to the balcony over the dumpsters, and is a great source of natural light. Which might help me work around the more depth of field more light problem.
So unless this is a terrible idea I should be immediately talked out of, I think I'm going to go for the Canon EOS Rebel SL2 with a kit lens plus the EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM Lens that was recommended. Then I'll figure out the tripod/strap situation.
Thank you again for all your help. I really appreciate it!
Instead, consider Op/Tech or something that attaches to the camera's own strap lugs, not the tripod mount.
Like I said earlier, I have some idea of what makes an image interesting. But extra tips, and advice on how to fully take advantage of the camera would be awesome.
Is there a community college near you that hosts photography classes?
I usually use it on my belt and with a hand strap as well, it feels and has been super secure. I can even ride my bike with it on my belt with no worries about it falling and I’m not having to lug around a camera bag all the time. There are other companies that make similar systems but Peak Design seems to do a great job in my experience.
As for a neck strap, I very much prefer the sliding, single anchor type that goes across chest and shoulder to hip. Way less stress on neck and back and I’ve never had trouble taking camera off to put on tripod. The one I use and love was a Kickstarter that doesn’t appear to exist anymore as a product you can buy. But it’s pretty much a simpler version of this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XA9LL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DkKyAbVW1AB6N
Anyway, these are my favorite photos I've taken so far (resized and edited.)
I don't want to overload the thread with photos, so as a comparison, here's an album of photos I took of my dog with my phone. Pretty sure the ones with the camera are just all around better. But at the very least, getting the photos *with* the camera were way easier so it still solved my first problem.
Also, here's an album of unedited photos I took that turned out okay.
And here are the big versions of the photos I color corrected.
Photos where my dog is lying down, asleep were taken with the zoom lens. Everything else was with the fixed lens. Most photos were taken with REALLY lousy lighting. (Especially the ones where the dog's asleep. Under a table. At night.)
I have a long way to go. But I'm enjoying learning how the camera and lenses work, and what needs to be done to get the kind of shot I want.
Thank you again for all your help! You made this way easier for me.