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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?
I recently got into Kill Team through a friend of mine which also means me painting models after something like a 20 years break. Not my first model - I got a full 20 model Astra Militarum roster painted up that I feel is painted ok but nothing to write home about, but I am kinda proud of myself with this one. Also I figured the superior colour choice would earn me some internet brownie points in this thread. My first finished AdMech guy:
The film is kinda messy near the bottom of the coat, that is because I gave up in shame after being unable to paint a not-shit staight line in white and painted it over after admitting defeat. Wanted to have some of that checkered AdMech trim but I figure I'm not ready for that yet
+20
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Thanks, it's not like I just picked a mini up and went at it. YouTube tutorials-making people are to thank here mostly. That and some patience, me as a kid would have just rushed through it. This one was me taking it slow for like 3 evenings, I want to say around 6-7 hours total? Turns out its very relaxing to sit down and focus on something small for a time. I can see myself doing this some more in the future.
Also, as my friend told me - shade pots are liquid talent, you don't need your own Praise be to the Nuln Oil/ Agrax duo.
Well I primed my first few minis today with an airbrush. I've went with a mid-range model Iwata Eclipse and Ninja air compressor along with a portable booth. For paint I'm using Vallejo Black primer straight out of the bottle. Comparing my results against some rattlecan'd minis it's clear I put on too much primer. I wasn't sure what pressure to set it too or how far back to pull the trigger, so I settle on something like two twists away from full pressure (there's no graduated range on the compressor, just a nob) and just enough trigger to see some paint come out. I'm used to seeing good and quick coverage from a rattlecan which almost always dries on contact, and I know to stop when it appears wet. Priming with the airbrush it seemed like the coverage was very light, and even when I went heavy or pulled the trigger too hard I didn't get good coverage (I could still see the plastic beneath) but the paint appeared wet and took a while to dry. I've attached these pictures which also show a little experimentation I was doing on some plasticard to test the various pressures and trigger pulls.
Any advice for me thread? Any recommended videos? I watched a few (focusing mainly on the cleaning, which I did part-way through my 20 minute session and also thoroughly at the end) but I didn't get a good sense of what I was seeing from those I found.
Make sure you shake the shit out of that primer bottle, bad consistency could just be all the pigment settled at the bottom. Put a fishing weight or something in to agitate the paint.
You’d be better off thinning the primer and lowering the brush pressure, too high and it’ll definitely goop up the mini.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
I know it came up a few years ago when I was getting started with my airbrush, someone else had had similar experience and would take a skewer and stir the bottle after shaking it for a minute to make sure the bottom wasn't collecting. They would they shake it some more afterwards. I definitely did this at some point for the first bottle I had, but haven't had to with the one I have now. Really can't understate that shaking it for a solid minute is a really good idea. An agitator as suggested above is also a good idea if you've got something suitable.
Otherwise, like you've picked up on, it's really not the same as spraying with a rattle can, so you're just going to need to practice a bit. Much like (most) rattle cans, you shouldn't expect an immediate result - you lay down a short pass to get your tack coat going, then layer back to build up the colour. It's rare you're going to be able to just spray an area and have it "good and done" in one pass. Mount the model to something (like the top of an old paint pot, using poster tack) and rotate around as you spray so you don't focus on one area too much. As things start to fill in and you're left with some problem areas, you can focus on them a bit more, but try not to get to that point of wetness. At the end of the day, there are spots you just might not be able to get with the airbrush, and should expect to fill in with a paintbrush afterwards.
I didn't realize that the compressor I have maxes out at 20 psi. I think that should be ok, but depending one what guide I read I've seen anywhere from 10-60psi recommended. Based off a popular reddit guide who uses a very similar set up it sounds like I need to thin the primer slightly and work at around 18psi. I'll give it another shot soon.
Now I found my hand flamer spray gun
Since all I plan on doing with it is priming what would be a good compressor for it? or should I just get one of the bundles that has an airbrush with it?
0
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
There's a big difference between an airbrush and a spraygun, with the latter's name pretty much summing it up. It sprays paint. You can use it for priming, a full model base coat, or spraying something big, but it has none of the capability for painting that an airbrush has.
Is there a better alternative, for gluing metal models, than superglue?
Like can I use JBweld or another two part epoxy and get better results?
Like, maybe, but I don't think you're going to find something that is more simple for its effectiveness. Why are you looking for an alternative? Do you definitely know the ins-and-outs of cyanoacrylate, including its shelf life?
Is there a better alternative, for gluing metal models, than superglue?
Like can I use JBweld or another two part epoxy and get better results?
Like, maybe, but I don't think you're going to find something that is more simple for its effectiveness. Why are you looking for an alternative? Do you definitely know the ins-and-outs of cyanoacrylate, including its shelf life?
More just curiosity than anything else. From various repair jobs around the house I have six different kinds of adhesive kicking around. Wasn't sure if they might be better alternatives.
ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
At that point if you have some models you could spare, feel free to test and see if something works out for you. I'm not going to tell you you won't find better strictly on adhesive quality. With metal though the biggest factor tends to be "Did you pin it?"
Has anyone here ever painted a Hero Forge model, and do you have an opinion on it?
I've painted a premium plastic model and it was no different than other plastic models from other companies, if a bit more fragile. Washed it in a gentle solution of dish soap to remove any leftover residue from the printing process, let it dry, removed any sprues then primed.
The print lines were so fine that after priming and basecoating they were gone. This may differ based on pose though. Ive heard a nail file will do good on print lines if they are bad.
There's a big difference between an airbrush and a spraygun, with the latter's name pretty much summing it up. It sprays paint. You can use it for priming, a full model base coat, or spraying something big, but it has none of the capability for painting that an airbrush has.
I am just getting an airbrush to prime with since it's been too hot to prime for months
0
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Is there a better alternative, for gluing metal models, than superglue?
Like can I use JBweld or another two part epoxy and get better results?
I use JB Kwik and liberal pinning with all my metal models, and I've never been disappointed. You just have to be judicious about how much you use, and make sure you dry-fit everything. Fortunately, if you overdo it, it's usually pretty easy to shave overflow down a bit with a sharp Xacto blade.
Have begun work on the first Reaver. I think I need to really push those highlights and transition more, and then let a glaze after smooth it all out.
With the actual head blending against the torso & arm due to just having the basecoat, I keep seeing the missile turret on top as the head, like some giant Imperium version of Bastion's recon mode.
I remember as a kid, a friend told me that a good way to strengthen the glue bond in big metal models is to put a piece of tissue paper between the parts before glueing both sides, and that the paper would make a cement to hold them together.
As it turns out, superglue applied to tissue paper causes it to spontaneously combust into flames and give off toxic fumes. Good times.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
+1
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
I remember as a kid, a friend told me that a good way to strengthen the glue bond in big metal models is to put a piece of tissue paper between the parts before glueing both sides, and that the paper would make a cement to hold them together.
As it turns out, superglue applied to tissue paper causes it to spontaneously combust into flames and give off toxic fumes. Good times.
It wasn't _bad_ advice - a little bit of tissue, papertowel, or the like gives a rough surface for the two sides to bond to. The fact that it's an unattached intermediary contact means it's not going to be the best hold ever, but it helps with smooth metal on smooth metal. I'd recommend green stuff personally, but it works.
On the other hand, cyanoacrylate does have an exothermic reaction to natural fibers. While using a tiny corner of tissue to secure an arm isn't going to cause a problem... well, I've told the story several times about how I set my jeans on fire when I accidentally upended a brush-on bottle of loctite onto my leg. If you're using a patch that's more than a couple square mm of material, things are probably going to get interesting.
Has anyone here ever painted a Hero Forge model, and do you have an opinion on it?
I bought a couple three years ago, it what was then called 'ultra detail' and seems to now be the premium plastic. I was quite satisfied with the quality of the models.
To increase the bond between metal parts with super glue, must use a file to rough up both of the contract points. It does the same thing you guys are mentioning, gives better contact surfaces than smooth metal.
What is this I don't even.
+3
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
To increase the bond between metal parts with super glue, must use a file to rough up both of the contract points. It does the same thing you guys are mentioning, gives better contact surfaces than smooth metal.
I also do this with JB Kwik.
It's my hope that my miniatures' joints outlast my own by several hundred years.
Grabbing a couple things off Amazon and stumbled across a vallejo black metal airpaint, for which I have zero applications or projects I'd need it for presently...
Grabbing a couple things off Amazon and stumbled across a vallejo black metal airpaint, for which I have zero applications or projects I'd need it for presently...
Bought it immediately
I've been staring at their Burnt Iron after an earlier conversation, but I just can't justify spending so much on something I'll use on a total of four models.
But that's how paint racks fill themselves, right?
+2
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Damn, between the cape, weapon and pose I've purchased a Hero Forge Mini that is damn hard to paint in places. I think it's going to turn out decent but certainly something to think about next time, and to anyone else who buys one.
H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
edited October 2018
A different, worse colour
I'm just having a blast making characters with the designer tool. Gonna have to start screen-capping some of them cause there ain't no way I could afford all of these. Kind of wish there was a way to do paint scheme mock-ups with it.
I'm just having a blast making characters with the designer tool. Gonna have to start screen-capping some of them cause there ain't no way I could afford all of these. Kind of wish there was a way to do paint scheme mock-ups with it.
That would be so cool. You could even do a basic wash and highlight pass too.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited October 2018
So the arms and heads or my Tau models are coming off in the green stuff. Figured it would happen since most of them were primer to primer glued. I can at least glue them properly this time.
Edit: the brushes I'm using seem too soft, not much is coming off till I scratch the primer with my finger nail. Also the arms coming off is a pain because no I need to figure out which other arm they go with.
Editedit: never gonna clean off models like this again. Just gonna buy new ones from now on.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
0
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited October 2018
They did not come as clean as I wanted. I'm not sure this will go well with painting.
Should I clean them again or just move forward? I'm kind of stressing about the cleaning.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Yeah, you're just stressing over the cleaning. Once they're primed and base-coated, no one is going to know they weren't scrubbed down to bare plastic.
This is why unless it's something really exceptional or an amazing deal, I just don't find it worth it to get models to strip. Having a fresh kit to work with and not spending the extra time is more than worth it for me.
Posts
The film is kinda messy near the bottom of the coat, that is because I gave up in shame after being unable to paint a not-shit staight line in white and painted it over after admitting defeat. Wanted to have some of that checkered AdMech trim but I figure I'm not ready for that yet
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Thanks, it's not like I just picked a mini up and went at it. YouTube tutorials-making people are to thank here mostly. That and some patience, me as a kid would have just rushed through it. This one was me taking it slow for like 3 evenings, I want to say around 6-7 hours total? Turns out its very relaxing to sit down and focus on something small for a time. I can see myself doing this some more in the future.
Also, as my friend told me - shade pots are liquid talent, you don't need your own
Any advice for me thread? Any recommended videos? I watched a few (focusing mainly on the cleaning, which I did part-way through my 20 minute session and also thoroughly at the end) but I didn't get a good sense of what I was seeing from those I found.
pictures, spoiled for scrolling:
You’d be better off thinning the primer and lowering the brush pressure, too high and it’ll definitely goop up the mini.
Otherwise, like you've picked up on, it's really not the same as spraying with a rattle can, so you're just going to need to practice a bit. Much like (most) rattle cans, you shouldn't expect an immediate result - you lay down a short pass to get your tack coat going, then layer back to build up the colour. It's rare you're going to be able to just spray an area and have it "good and done" in one pass. Mount the model to something (like the top of an old paint pot, using poster tack) and rotate around as you spray so you don't focus on one area too much. As things start to fill in and you're left with some problem areas, you can focus on them a bit more, but try not to get to that point of wetness. At the end of the day, there are spots you just might not be able to get with the airbrush, and should expect to fill in with a paintbrush afterwards.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
Since all I plan on doing with it is priming what would be a good compressor for it? or should I just get one of the bundles that has an airbrush with it?
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
There's a big difference between an airbrush and a spraygun, with the latter's name pretty much summing it up. It sprays paint. You can use it for priming, a full model base coat, or spraying something big, but it has none of the capability for painting that an airbrush has.
Like can I use JBweld or another two part epoxy and get better results?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
More just curiosity than anything else. From various repair jobs around the house I have six different kinds of adhesive kicking around. Wasn't sure if they might be better alternatives.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I've painted a premium plastic model and it was no different than other plastic models from other companies, if a bit more fragile. Washed it in a gentle solution of dish soap to remove any leftover residue from the printing process, let it dry, removed any sprues then primed.
The print lines were so fine that after priming and basecoating they were gone. This may differ based on pose though. Ive heard a nail file will do good on print lines if they are bad.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
A friend got one for me before the premium plastic option was available and it was...not good. If you're getting one, spring for the premium plastic.
I am just getting an airbrush to prime with since it's been too hot to prime for months
I use JB Kwik and liberal pinning with all my metal models, and I've never been disappointed. You just have to be judicious about how much you use, and make sure you dry-fit everything. Fortunately, if you overdo it, it's usually pretty easy to shave overflow down a bit with a sharp Xacto blade.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
With the actual head blending against the torso & arm due to just having the basecoat, I keep seeing the missile turret on top as the head, like some giant Imperium version of Bastion's recon mode.
So he's from Philly?
As it turns out, superglue applied to tissue paper causes it to spontaneously combust into flames and give off toxic fumes. Good times.
WTF was wrong with him?
On the other hand, cyanoacrylate does have an exothermic reaction to natural fibers. While using a tiny corner of tissue to secure an arm isn't going to cause a problem... well, I've told the story several times about how I set my jeans on fire when I accidentally upended a brush-on bottle of loctite onto my leg. If you're using a patch that's more than a couple square mm of material, things are probably going to get interesting.
I bought a couple three years ago, it what was then called 'ultra detail' and seems to now be the premium plastic. I was quite satisfied with the quality of the models.
I also do this with JB Kwik.
It's my hope that my miniatures' joints outlast my own by several hundred years.
Bought it immediately
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I've been staring at their Burnt Iron after an earlier conversation, but I just can't justify spending so much on something I'll use on a total of four models.
But that's how paint racks fill themselves, right?
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
That would be so cool. You could even do a basic wash and highlight pass too.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Edit: the brushes I'm using seem too soft, not much is coming off till I scratch the primer with my finger nail. Also the arms coming off is a pain because no I need to figure out which other arm they go with.
Editedit: never gonna clean off models like this again. Just gonna buy new ones from now on.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Should I clean them again or just move forward? I'm kind of stressing about the cleaning.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
This is why unless it's something really exceptional or an amazing deal, I just don't find it worth it to get models to strip. Having a fresh kit to work with and not spending the extra time is more than worth it for me.
Yep, 32mm wide.