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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Chrysis wrote: »
    Maybe airbrushed too close then. It looks like it's pooling.

    Would it help to do another light coat in those areas?

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    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Coming from some one who started painting minis before fancy primer cane about. I can confirm that abandon black works just fine.

    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    edited October 30
    You really gotta use a bunch of Agrellan Earth to have some good cracks don't you? The texture paints are not going to go far. (Maybe)

    Also, I can't get the damn magnets to stick on my Titan's arm. Guess I'll rough up the surface. Is greenstuff needed to form a gem setting type thing?

    bobAkirafett on
    akirasig.jpg
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    my local GW mentioned mixing in a little PVA glue to help with the cracking. I however cannot vouch for this method.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • VikingViking Registered User regular
    Purple
    You really gotta use a bunch of Agrellan Earth to have some good cracks don't you? The texture paints are not going to go far. (Maybe)

    Also, I can't get the damn magnets to stick on my Titan's arm. Guess I'll rough up the surface. Is greenstuff needed to form a gem setting type thing?
    you have to go real thick with the crackle paints, 3mm - 5mm (3/32 - 3/16 inch) thick seems about right to me if you want nice cracks with base showing underneath.
    which does mean that yeah you are going to go through a lot of it basing an army

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  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    You don’t really want to do a whole base in crackle, just a spot here and there. It goes a lot further with just a blob per base.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • NorgothNorgoth Registered User regular
    Purple
    Anyone got a reccomendation for a daylight bulb/lamps?

    Painting my tau in olive drab is fine and all except it’s gotten dark in the uk and I can’t see shit under a normal bulb.

  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Purple
    You can do entire bases in crackle, I've done it for all of my AoS Death units and it looks pretty good after painting them up.

    Depending on how many bases you're doing though, you may want to grab more than one pot.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    For my Ork BB team and Kataphrons i used the structure paint and then blobs of crackle paint on top and then some drybrush/pigment. I'm happy with the effect.

    8gHHvIy.jpg

    ExtreaminatusDiannaoChongTheColonelNorgothElbasunuKhraulLanlaornTIFunkaliciousVikingvalhalla130mildlymorbidJustTeeH3Knuckles
  • NorgothNorgoth Registered User regular
    Purple
    Work in progress on my Riptide. Need to put a glaze over the center torso to smoother the edges on the highlights, then it’s finishing the grey and brass elements.

    wz5SJE9.jpg
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    En16Gi3.jpg

    VikingBrainleechIanatorArcticLancerBetsuniTheColonelKhrauloverride367WatcherJustTeeElvenshaeH3Knucklesvalhalla130
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    edited October 31
    2ldjag.jpg

    Mayday on
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  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    Norgoth wrote: »
    Anyone got a reccomendation for a daylight bulb/lamps?

    Painting my tau in olive drab is fine and all except it’s gotten dark in the uk and I can’t see shit under a normal bulb.

    Try a pet store in the reptile stuff

  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    Norgoth wrote: »
    Anyone got a reccomendation for a daylight bulb/lamps?

    Painting my tau in olive drab is fine and all except it’s gotten dark in the uk and I can’t see shit under a normal bulb.

    I picked up this one and I really like it. I'm not sure about a 220 volt version...

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUTAFR8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    There's a store locally that either sells Japanese or Korean products that are all very inexpensive and seem to be fairly good quality... It's called miniso

    Grabbed a very similar lamp to what italianranma posted for $14 CAD.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    edited November 2
    Purple
    Seeing as there appears to be cheap alternatives for just about everything in this hobby, does anyone know of an inexpensive source of foam I could buy to make my own battlefoam?

    I already have a Pelican case and another hardcase that would be perfect for miniature transport, I just need to make some foam inserts for them.

    Khraul on
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  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Have you looked into generic pluck foam from, e.g., Amazon?

    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
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  • WatcherWatcher Registered User regular
    I buy foam from fabric stores. It is not pluck foam, you'll have to cut it, but, it can all be custom size. You can cut it to fit any container.

  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Seeing as there appears to be cheap alternatives for just about everything in this hobby, does anyone know of an inexpensive source of foam I could buy to make my own battlefoam?

    I already have a Pelican case and another hardcase that would be perfect for miniature transport, I just need to make some foam inserts for them.

    If I remember to tomorrow, I'll make a tutorial on how I make my lame ass case. Someone remind me somehow.

    akirasig.jpg
    Khraul
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    So I have a Knight Castallan coming from amazon this weekend. I have my plan for painting it mostly together, but I'm curious how people paint the checker boarding, like this:

    99120108003_ImperialKnightNEW01.jpg

    I was thinking the best way would be to use small strips of painter tape to block it off? I don't have the skill to paint it by hand.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    edited November 2
    Purple
    @GnomeTank I saw a tutorial on that somewhere. I'll see if I can find it.

    Alternatively there's a couple of sites that sell miniature stencils if you have an airbrush

    Edit - http://www.fallouthobbies.com/stencils/

    Khraul on
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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    I did look at pluck foam on Amazon, and it's priced fairly well, but you can tell it's still marked up for miniatures. $20usd for a 12*9*4 piece of foam is still pretty high.

    I hadn't thought to check fabric stores, I'll try that on my next day off.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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    PSN - Razide6
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    edited November 2
    For checker patterns on a large flat surface like that you get a micron pen and draw a grid pattern, then just color in the lines. It still takes some decent brush control but it’s not that difficult. It’s when you’re put checkers on something tiny with lots of uneven surfaces like orks or harlequins that you really have to take your time.

    Badablack on
    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    This reminds me that I still need to finish my knight. I want to put it completely together but I feel like that will make it a nightmare to paint but I also suck at painting and just want to use it.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    The only part you really want off to reach stuff is the top carapace, and that doesn’t even need to be glued in.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    For those of you who complete some of the more elaborate bases I've seen in here, do you complete the bases then attach the mini's? And if so, how? Just leave gaps so you can glue the mini down afterwards?

    Or do you just work around the miniature and base as a last step?

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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    PSN - Razide6
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Khraul wrote: »
    For those of you who complete some of the more elaborate bases I've seen in here, do you complete the bases then attach the mini's? And if so, how? Just leave gaps so you can glue the mini down afterwards?

    Or do you just work around the miniature and base as a last step?

    I feel like this is strongly an "It depends" thing.
    It depends both on the project in question, and the preferences of the person. I believe most people will paint the mini and base separately. I almost always attach a mini to the base first because I'm some sort of heathen. :D But I prefer the more natural fit I can get building them into the base from the get-go rather than just pasting them on top at the end. There was also that time I cut Eiryss2 off her gargoyle head and had to sculpt a new cloak - someone much better at that could probably have done so without attaching the mini, but it was sure part of the base by the time I was done with it. :P But the Crisis Suit I did in this past year had to go on afterwards because flying models and whatnot.

    Khraul
  • TastyfishTastyfish Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Badablack wrote: »
    For checker patterns on a large flat surface like that you get a micron pen and draw a grid pattern, then just color in the lines. It still takes some decent brush control but it’s not that difficult. It’s when you’re put checkers on something tiny with lots of uneven surfaces like orks or harlequins that you really have to take your time.

    This has always driven me crazy when I've seen guides on how to paint cheques or the harlequin patterns, when the simple guide turn out to be to "paint the cheques and harlequin pattern". Just drawing the lines seems intimidating enough, on a curved surface or uneven fabric.

    H3Knuckles
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited November 2
    Purple
    .
    Khraul wrote: »
    Seeing as there appears to be cheap alternatives for just about everything in this hobby, does anyone know of an inexpensive source of foam I could buy to make my own battlefoam?

    I already have a Pelican case and another hardcase that would be perfect for miniature transport, I just need to make some foam inserts for them.

    As someone that is literally looking into this now, and is probably three button clicks away from some purchase, here's what I've found:

    www.foambymail.com

    Search for Charcoal; that's what a lot of higher-quality packing houses use for semi-permanent packaging. This place offers it in Regular and Firm, in a whole bunch of different thicknesses. For reference, an entire sheet 1"-thick sized 80"x72" only costs $30.99.

    I'm probably going to pick up a sheet of 1/8" ($7.99) for interstitial layers, and 1/2" ($15.99) for layers to cut holes in for minis, and then use my laser cutter to (hopefully) custom cut the stuff to fit the miniatures and the cases I'm packing.

    And to stay on topic, I painted some things. Some very tiny things, painted as fast as humanly possible.
    D3ARsFTh.jpg

    Ground Zero Games produced Mini Bugs, in 6 mm scale for my convention game in February. Sadly, this is only the first third of the whole swarm. And like, 5% of the total minis count I need to get ready. The con's not until late February, and I already feel like I'm not ready. x_x

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    KhraulElvenshaeH3Knuckles
  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    edited November 2
    Ok, so I bought some bankers boxes, poly foam, and some small foam sheets.

    Each banker's box can hold 9 trays with a codex or two on top, or 10 trays with a little bit of smush. Cut the foam roll and sheets into 15"x12" sections. Then I used two tray prinouts that KR Multicase provides to make a grid on the foam roll. Cut out about a billion squares with a snap knife blade/boxcutter that I got from the dollar store. Using just the blade so I can kinda saw through. Then white glued the 15x12 cut foam sheet to the roughest side of the foam roll to complete a tray. You can use 3 of the foam sheet cut offs to make another bottom for the foam rolls.

    Basically followed this tutorial, except with a larger size and the KR Multicase tray printouts.

    After having cut all the damn squares out, I might recommend the pluck foam, but you can get custom sizes yourself, and you can use the cut offs to build a haggard tank tray.

    This site and this one were recommended to get your foam from when I went searching for DIY solutions. There ARE premade trays that are smaller, but every premade tray seems to run at least $10+. You can use BattleFoam's custom tray creator to make one with the outlines of tanks or what not, screenshot it, then print to size on paper, and use a few layers of the foam roll to make one for vehicles and unwieldy figures.

    The 1" thick foam only works with 20-25mm bases, larger and you'd need the 2". Tanks are 3-4" tall/thick.


    Here's the whole "case."



    bobAkirafett on
    akirasig.jpg
    KhraulH3Knuckles
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Khraul wrote: »
    For those of you who complete some of the more elaborate bases I've seen in here, do you complete the bases then attach the mini's? And if so, how? Just leave gaps so you can glue the mini down afterwards?

    Or do you just work around the miniature and base as a last step?

    I feel like this is strongly an "It depends" thing.
    It depends both on the project in question, and the preferences of the person. I believe most people will paint the mini and base separately. I almost always attach a mini to the base first because I'm some sort of heathen. :D But I prefer the more natural fit I can get building them into the base from the get-go rather than just pasting them on top at the end. There was also that time I cut Eiryss2 off her gargoyle head and had to sculpt a new cloak - someone much better at that could probably have done so without attaching the mini, but it was sure part of the base by the time I was done with it. :P But the Crisis Suit I did in this past year had to go on afterwards because flying models and whatnot.

    I drybrush my bases, so the base and the model are always painted separately. I use a lot of texture paint, so if I glue the model down first and then put the texture down it looks like the model is "sinking into" the base a tiny bit. Some people fix this by gluing tiny pieces of plasticard or something under the feet of the model so it's raised a tiny bit from the base, but I'm too lazy to do that.

    73CQcJZ.png
    KhraulNought
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    The only part you really want off to reach stuff is the top carapace, and that doesn’t even need to be glued in.

    Yea, I think I can see why that might be the only part that is really a pain. I kind of want to at least do a prime, base, and wash on the skeleton and then start putting it together. I have these awesome shape ways 3D printed pieces and I really need to put them to use finally.

    I am also running into an issue with my T'au. Now that I have them based I want to do a gloss varnish and then for the units I want to do a matte black with grey highlights for any cloth areas but I have no idea what highlights to use on the armor and if I should leave the guns with the color shift or paint them different as well.

    I also like the look of T'au drones with the outer ring painted different but I don't know what color to use.
    NAxF33U.jpg
    Something like that.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Khraul wrote: »
    For those of you who complete some of the more elaborate bases I've seen in here, do you complete the bases then attach the mini's? And if so, how? Just leave gaps so you can glue the mini down afterwards?

    Or do you just work around the miniature and base as a last step?

    I feel like this is strongly an "It depends" thing.
    It depends both on the project in question, and the preferences of the person. I believe most people will paint the mini and base separately. I almost always attach a mini to the base first because I'm some sort of heathen. :D But I prefer the more natural fit I can get building them into the base from the get-go rather than just pasting them on top at the end. There was also that time I cut Eiryss2 off her gargoyle head and had to sculpt a new cloak - someone much better at that could probably have done so without attaching the mini, but it was sure part of the base by the time I was done with it. :P But the Crisis Suit I did in this past year had to go on afterwards because flying models and whatnot.

    I drybrush my bases, so the base and the model are always painted separately. I use a lot of texture paint, so if I glue the model down first and then put the texture down it looks like the model is "sinking into" the base a tiny bit. Some people fix this by gluing tiny pieces of plasticard or something under the feet of the model so it's raised a tiny bit from the base, but I'm too lazy to do that.

    Sure, but this still feels like exactly what I stated to begin with.
    Depending on the surface you were creating you might want to attach the model right after applying the texture paint so that it's somewhat sunk into it instead of resting comfortably on top (like sand or mud or a bog). When you attach the two is directly related to the effect you're trying to create~

  • webguy20webguy20 Registered User regular
    So for bigger minis do people pin them to the base at all? Im doing a huge sized fire giant that will go on a 3” base and im worried that glue wont be enough.

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  • see317see317 Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    webguy20 wrote: »
    So for bigger minis do people pin them to the base at all? Im doing a huge sized fire giant that will go on a 3” base and im worried that glue wont be enough.

    I think it would depend on the mini and how much surface area it has on the base.
    I'd think for something like a fire giant, unless it's got a really dynamic pose, the surface area for the feet should be sufficient to keep it attached with just glue.
    Of course, it never hurts to pin if you've got the time and patience.

    Ringo wrote: »
    Well except what see317 said. That guy's always wrong.
    ElvenshaeArcticLancer
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    I was kinda hoping to get this spooky bunch done for Halloween, but close enough I guess.

    UfbupsV.jpg?1
    cvIsXSC.jpg?1
    uWD55yi.jpg?1
    smMACAn.jpg?1
    FjtdJrk.jpg?1

    Nighthaunt are very fiddly models, I do not think I would like to collect an army of them, as impressive as the sculpts are!



    H3KnuckleshonovereBetsuniwebguy20ExtreaminatusCustom SpecialKhraulNorgothstopgapElvenshaeMaydaydavidsdurionsvalhalla130
  • NorgothNorgoth Registered User regular
    edited November 4
    Purple
    Finished up my riptide, got some custom decals for it that I haven’t printed yet, and the base to do but the major work is done.

    nK40vuP.jpg
    hP0y98o.jpg
    1VJ1K1D.jpg
    qM64obL.jpg
    uQJvbNU.jpg

    Norgoth on
    BetsuniArcticLancerOrogogusKhraulNipsWatcherCustom SpecialIanatorstopgapwebguy20H3KnucklesElvenshaeMaydayExtreaminatusdavidsdurionsDelduwathTheColonelNechriahvalhalla130
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Good job, Norgoth, I'm already filled with rage at the mere sight of it!

    Work continues slowly on my Monobelisk:
    50Gf882.jpg

    NorgothBetsuniVikingOrogogusKhraulNipsCustom SpecialIanatorBurnagestopgapH3KnucklesElvenshaemildlymorbiddavidsdurionsElbasunuDelduwathTheColonelNechriahDraevenvalhalla130FroThulhu
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    That's a good use of spare gunpla beam sabres. XD

    GR_ZombieKhraulIanatorsee317H3KnucklesElvenshae
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    @Mayday

    How do you get those orbs to look that bright and glowy? They're positively fluorescent

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    @Mayday
    How do you get those orbs to look that bright and glowy? They're positively fluorescent

    They are! I'm using VMC Green Fluo, highlighted with a mix of Green Fluo and yellow.

    NipsKhraulH3KnucklesElvenshaeTheColonel
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