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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    You want all that crazy colour to pop though, so I would just very thin edge highlight with silver. I think pinwashing the panel lines is just as, if not more important, than highlighting for these kinds of metalics.

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    honovereKhraulExtreaminatuswebguy20
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Mithril silver will work great on the gold and purple, boltgun could work on the blue, and maybe a 50/50 mix of those reds and greens with mithril silver on the rest.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited December 7
    Badablack wrote: »
    Mithril silver will work great on the gold and purple, boltgun could work on the blue, and maybe a 50/50 mix of those reds and greens with mithril silver on the rest.

    I'm not seeing mithril or boltgun under the GW paints.

    Do you mean mix the color shift paint with mithril silver 50/50?
    McGibs wrote: »
    You want all that crazy colour to pop though, so I would just very thin edge highlight with silver. I think pinwashing the panel lines is just as, if not more important, than highlighting for these kinds of metalics.

    I will give a try after watching more videos, I've never pin washed before.

    Edit: would I be doing the pin wash with the highlight color?

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Yeah mithril silver and boltgun don’t exist anymore I meant stormhost silver and leadbelcher. A light silver and a dark iron.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Ok thread, I need some help. I have forever and a day had trouble with gloss coating my kits, and to paint up a kit how I want, I need to be able to get a good gloss coat on them. I recently attempted painting up a Zaku II in some custom colors, but when I went to use enamel paint to panel line, the airbrushed gloss I had applied wouldn't let it flow into the corners properly. I tried using my scribing tool to re-etch the corners, but that ripped the paint off even with a very light tough. I also tried using my hobby knife and it kinda worked, but the groove cut is just too thin to allow for much coloring.

    Here's how I painted this:

    1) Cleaned all parts and assembled.
    2) Primed with Vallejo primer. For the chrome/metallic parts I primed with Spazstix gloss black.
    3) Used Vallejo Air and Reaper Master Series paints to paint the model. For the chrome/metallic parts I used Molotow Chrome for the bright parts and Spazstix Chrome for the darker parts.
    4) Glossed the acrylic painted parts with Liquitex Gloss.

    The parts are somewhat glossy, but it isn't even and definitely has an orange peel texture. Additionally, I think it went on too thick. And the model has a slightly tacky feeling where I have glossed. I have also tried other products in the past like Future Floor Polish and have the same issues.

    I'm spraying indoors and I live in Houston, TX.

    DQn6uwW.png

    P.S. Next attempt I am going to use a medium tone green instead of the LIME GREEN that just screams at you. I've given up working on this model, but ultimately I want to do a good two-tone red/green as my custom suit.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Badablack wrote: »
    Yeah mithril silver and boltgun don’t exist anymore I meant stormhost silver and leadbelcher. A light silver and a dark iron.

    Oh, alright. I got those. Need to get to finishing thes T'au up. Kind of want to paint the guns different from the color shift but I feel like it would mess with the look.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Edit: would I be doing the pin wash with the highlight color?
    Good lord, no. Pinwashing is to make the recesses darker!

  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    What is pinwashing?

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
  • MaydayMayday generation three hybrid Registered User regular
    Pinwashing is the process of carefully applying a wash to a small part of a surface, like a recess or a raised detail.

  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited December 7
    A different, worse colour
    One of my local clubrunners made a pretty good tutorial about pinwashing using taimia panel liner (which i really need to try out).


    But the general idea behind pinwashing is using an oil-based wash ontop of a glosscoat to get the wash JUST in the recessed lines. You use oil because you can wipe away any excess before it dries.
    Or, like Mayday said, you can be a crazy person with a tiny (pin sized, even?) brush to paint in regular acrylic washes just in the recessed areas, but that's really difficult and time consuming.

    McGibs on
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    ArcticLancer
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    edited December 7
    Purple
    Thanks, McGibs. That's exactly what I need to do for my Dropfleet Stuff~

    ArcticLancer on
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    McGibs wrote: »
    One of my local clubrunners made a pretty good tutorial about pinwashing using taimia panel liner (which i really need to try out).


    But the general idea behind pinwashing is using an oil-based wash ontop of a glosscoat to get the wash JUST in the recessed lines. You use oil because you can wipe away any excess before it dries.
    Or, like Mayday said, you can be a crazy person with a tiny (pin sized, even?) brush to paint in regular acrylic washes just in the recessed areas, but that's really difficult and time consuming.

    Oh, so using like nuln oil wouldn't be ideal. I wonder if my LGS has oil based paints.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    Tamiya Panel Line is an enamel paint. And the thinner used can cause certain types of plastic (like Gundam) to become brittle and fail at joints.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    A bunch of filthy xenomorph cultists.
    payJsFp.jpg

    I’ll stop posting neophyte now. Onward to Aberrants and Abberant-related paraphernalia.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    H3KnucklesAuralynxBetsuniSharp101MaydayWatcherNipsDraevenitalianranmaOrogogusvalhalla130DayspringGnomeTankElvenshaeCustom SpecialHeffling
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    Those look super sharp bada.

    I need to add more oranges to my collection of paints at home.

    How did you get the cream armor (forearm guards, etc)

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    That’s just army painter strong tone applied over a light bone basecoat (in this case P3 Menoth White Highlight). Strong Tone is kinda like a softer version of Agrax Earthshade that tints more than shades.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    KhraulAuralynxDraeven
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    Badablack wrote: »
    That’s just army painter strong tone applied over a light bone basecoat (in this case P3 Menoth White Highlight). Strong Tone is kinda like a softer version of Agrax Earthshade that tints more than shades.

    That's fantastic, I'll add it to my shopping list.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • DraevenDraeven Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    those are great, so is that base coat everything the color you want ? hit with that wash and pick out highlights ? cause thats hella nice out come for not alot of effort.

    Morskitter wrote "Spikes, choppas, tentacles, magic? Can't hold a candle to Sergeant Pimp here."

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Purple
    McGibs wrote: »
    One of my local clubrunners made a pretty good tutorial about pinwashing using taimia panel liner (which i really need to try out).


    But the general idea behind pinwashing is using an oil-based wash ontop of a glosscoat to get the wash JUST in the recessed lines. You use oil because you can wipe away any excess before it dries.
    Or, like Mayday said, you can be a crazy person with a tiny (pin sized, even?) brush to paint in regular acrylic washes just in the recessed areas, but that's really difficult and time consuming.

    How did this man make a video that is a HALF HOUR LONG on pin washing. Jesus.

    What is this I don't even.
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Draeven wrote: »
    those are great, so is that base coat everything the color you want ? hit with that wash and pick out highlights ? cause thats hella nice out come for not alot of effort.

    It’s specifically as low effort as possible, given that I’m running a hundred of the damn things and would like to get them done before 9th edition rolls around. It’s all just the white base, a red wash on metals, an orange wash on the ribbed panels, brown wash on anything that’s not skin or bandages, sepia wash for skin, then color the rest in with whatever seems appropriate. It’s coloring in the lines with fluids.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    Nips
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    Badablack wrote: »
    Draeven wrote: »
    those are great, so is that base coat everything the color you want ? hit with that wash and pick out highlights ? cause thats hella nice out come for not alot of effort.

    It’s specifically as low effort as possible, given that I’m running a hundred of the damn things and would like to get them done before 9th edition rolls around. It’s all just the white base, a red wash on metals, an orange wash on the ribbed panels, brown wash on anything that’s not skin or bandages, sepia wash for skin, then color the rest in with whatever seems appropriate. It’s coloring in the lines with fluids.

    This technique is Slaanesh approved

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
    Nipsvalhalla130Burnagewebguy20
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    edited December 8
    Purple
    I bought a whole bunch of those Space Marine Heroes. The only one I don't have is the grenade guy.

    What can I do with these? I already have all the mini-Marines I need for a chapter of IF, and their bases are different than what I went with on my main army.

    If I did start a brand new army, I'd probably go all Primaris. So I feel.like I bought all these boxes for nothing. Even though they are neat models.

    Edit: if I were to make a new army, are there bases that match these?

    valhalla130 on
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    You could just make a small diorama out of them. Are any of the parts actually built into the base such that you couldn't just re-base them otherwise? I feel like "start a new army" is maybe overcomplicating this purchase. :P

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Could always use them for Kill Team.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    italianranmaH3KnucklesBrainleech
  • RenzoRenzo Registered User regular
    If you got Brother-Captain Thassarius, one thing you can do is sell him on eBay for a good chunk of change.

    Kill Team is definitely an option. Re-basing would be tough. Some of them include the feet.

    Khraulvalhalla130Brainleech
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    If basing is a concern I'm sure you could smear enough basing material on them to just make it look like they're on broken terrain... rubble covered by snow, etc

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • RenzoRenzo Registered User regular
    I'm hoping someone can clear this up for me.

    Why are these seemingly identical listings for minis so different in price? And while we're at it, why are there two listings at all?

    https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/mousling/latest/77290

    https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/mousling/latest/03744

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Local shop was running a Kill Team tourney, got some pictures of my board in the wild.
    1ytykGJ.jpg
    o3PjGlo.jpg
    GJXARRV.jpg

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
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  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Purple
    Renzo wrote: »
    I'm hoping someone can clear this up for me.

    Why are these seemingly identical listings for minis so different in price? And while we're at it, why are there two listings at all?

    https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/mousling/latest/77290

    https://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/mousling/latest/03744

    The "bones" range is a much softer plastic. The other listing would be metal.

    ArcticLancerRenzoElvenshaeNips
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    Bones material is softer, less detailed, and with a lot of difficult to remove moldlines. However it’s much cheaper, great to practice painting with, and practically indestructible.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    Extreaminatus
  • RenzoRenzo Registered User regular
    Ah OK, I didn't realize one was Bones and one was metal. That makes sense. I saw the Bones one at a local hobby shop for $7.49 and was shocked. Seems like it might be labeled wrong.

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I thought skitarii were a bit fiddly to clean up. Naive me hadn't tried to remove the mold lines from corpuscarii priests yet.

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Purple
    I'm thinking about getting the wife an airbrush. We'd have to use it in the yard. She's remarkably good with normal brush work but has never used an air brush before. I imagine she'd use it for base coating, maybe first round highlights, and large models. Can anyone recommend models and also what sorts of features I should be considering?

    Possibly important note, she's really comfortable and familiar with the GW color range.

    What is this I don't even.
    italianranma
  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    A cheap masters airbrush is probably best for your first. It’s around $20 and let’s you get the hang of use, cleaning, disassembly and all that and will basecoat just fine.

    Gravity feed (cup on top) is better for miniature work, dual action (not just a constant on/off stream) and you want an air compressor with a tank and a moisture trap so it doesn’t overheat or spray water on your minis.

    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    KhraulNipsDarkewolfe
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    Hey Darkewolfe, I just bought one myself as a total neophyte. Let me share with you. I bought the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS in this bundle on Amazon, which comes with a low-power "low noise" portable compressor. I'm really happy with it so far, but there were a few growing pains with the compressor. It caps out at 20 PSI, and while it's adjustable, there's no readout on it. 20 PSI is fine though for miniatures, so I just keep it at full blast. The description said it was quiet, but because there's no tank it runs continuously and it's still pretty loud, so I wear noise-cancelling headphones and listen to music while I'm using it. I believe the tip is a .3mm, which is sort of on the medium size for airbrushes (w/.5mm being the larger standard for simple base coating), but I haven't had any problems with its coverage, though I've yet to base coat a vehicle. I decided on getting an airbrush primarily so I could prime and basecoat indoors though, and to help with that effort I bought this Master Airbrush Spray Booth, and I love it so far. I couldn't set up the hose with my room constraints, but using it without it works plenty fine: I haven't found any airbrush particulates outside of the booth yet. I also bought a [url="http://a.co/d/3mDeO7r "]robust cleaning kit[/url], and followed this videos advice for dissembly and reassembly. I watched a few videos on cleaning during painting sessions and then for thorough cleaning afterwards, but I haven't bought any additional tools from what I already linked other than a cheap sport water bottle for my distilled water, and some microfiber cotton towels.

    If I had to do it all over again, I might consider looking for a different compressor than one I linked specifically looking at the ability to see my PSI, but size and portability are very important to me, so I might still have purchased the same thing. I'm also considering getting a moisture trap, but even in humid North Carolina I haven't had a problem yet.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
    Darkewolfe
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    A spray pot is pretty much essential if you are going to use an airbrush. I have the same Iwata Eclipse and it's pretty great. I second the note about disassembly and cleaning. Get comfortable stripping it down and getting it back together. First couple of times I did mine I thought I had "broken" it, but that's actually exceedingly hard to do. Also don't be me and accidentally drop the needle cone in to your garbage disposal and have to fish it out. Not pleasant.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
    italianranmaDarkewolfe
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    Oh, I totally forgot to talk about paints. I've been using the [url="http://a.co/d/90HHuw1 "]Iwata-Medea cleaner[/url] as it seems pretty cheap, and a little goes a long way. I've also been using the [url="http://a.co/d/7rGdcaQ "]Vallejo primers[/url] straight from the bottle, though they seem a little thick. I tried thinning them a bit with [url="http://a.co/d/hr1vpz7 "]Vellejo Thinner[/url], but I didn't like the result. I seem to be going through the primer very quickly, though I don't know if that's because of my technique and/or the lack of thinning, or if that's normal. Even though these are dropper bottles, there does always seem to be a bit of waste that's collected in the cap which doesn't help obviously. For painting I've been using the Citadel Air Paints straight from the pot. While it's an asinine design to keep them in those stupid pots, I've solved that problem by using these [url="http://a.co/d/ccrYe6q "]pipettes [/url]from chem lab. The secret technique to prevent almost all waste is to let the pipettes drain back into the pots after you've transferred your paint into the airbrush and put the lid on. Overall I'm really happy with the whole set up, and that I don't have try to match other colors to Citadel. That being said, I've heard that the golden ratio for Reaper Master Series Paints (if you happen to have those from say a Bones kickstarter) is a 1-to-1 with paint and thinner. I've yet to try it though.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
    GnomeTankDarkewolfe
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    GnomeTank wrote: »
    A spray pot is pretty much essential if you are going to use an airbrush. I have the same Iwata Eclipse and it's pretty great. I second the note about disassembly and cleaning. Get comfortable stripping it down and getting it back together. First couple of times I did mine I thought I had "broken" it, but that's actually exceedingly hard to do. Also don't be me and accidentally drop the needle cone in to your garbage disposal and have to fish it out. Not pleasant.

    My understanding is that even though the needle is made of stainless steel, it's actually quite fragile, and so I've been taking a lot of caution while disassembling it. Also it's very sharp. Also it's important to always pull the needle out and push it back in, keeping it in the same flow as the paint. Doing otherwise could mean dragging paint back into the airway, which adds some extra time and effort to clean-up.

    Guys, I'm so bored right now on this business trip. I'm cursing the fact I didn't bring any models to paint!

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
    KhraulDarkewolfe
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    edited 7:52PM
    Purple
    Yeah, I use Vallejo Surface Primer straight from the bottle. The one thing I would say about that is you'll probably want to do priming in big batches, because the airbrush requires a full cleaning after using primer. I've found that the primer, much more than paint, gums up the mechanisms of the airbrush.

    I also have been using Citadel Air straight from the pot (well after transferring to a paint dropper veil anyway). That said I highly recommend a bottle of acrylic air brush flow enhancer/airbrush medium (I use this). It does what it says it does, thins the paints, but you can use it for some other stuff, like creating glazes or thnning your washes to an absurd level for really good flow in to detail. It also turns any paint you happen to have in to airbrush paint.

    GnomeTank at
    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
    KhraulDarkewolfe
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Purple
    Oh, I have some of that stuff too! Would you mind sharing some of your techniques? I'm still mostly using my airbrush for basecoating, but I'd like to start expanding that a bit. I've got a lot of stuff to paint, so anything to save me some time and effort is appreciated.

    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
    Darkewolfe
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