What about spraying with what you’ve got and then painting over it with a brown glaze? Alternatively you could try using a matching tool like Reaper has on their website.
Speaking of making glazes, I'd like to make a small Alpha Legion Kill Team, and I really like that metallic blue-green scheme of the Alpha Legion. I watched this tutorial, and I'd like to recreate it without buying additional paints. To create the metallic color, the painter base coat with a steel color (I've got leadbelcher air already), and Tamiya Clear Blue and Clear Green thinned down with Airbrush Medium. Can I create that same effect with the Citadel Air Paints and airbrush medium or with one of their regular paints and thinner/medium? My understanding is the Citadel technical gemstone paints are meant to be brushed over a metallic base. I wonder how difficult it would be to thin those down with the medium.
The follow up question is that once I've done that awesome bit of airbrushing, should I consider putting a bit of hardcoat on it? My fear is that while I do the rest of the details in a bright silver that cleaning up mistakes would not be very easy, so I'd hope that I could wipe mistakes off of hardcoat more easily.
Speaking from my experience doing a similar scheme with my Word Bearers: Leadbelcher isn't going to be bright enough. Prime black, hot the model with Leadbelcher, then drybrush Runefang Steel (or get some Rub n Buff if you can) all over so the edges and what not really stand out.
Once your tiny Alpha Legion dudes look like proto-Iron Warriors, buy some Minitaire Plasma Fluid Ghost Tint and hit them with that. It's the perfect color for Alpha Legion and it's airbrush ready so you don't have fiddle with thinning the gemstone paints.
Now that they look like Alpha Legion dudes, spray some Testors Dullcote on them if you want and then get to work on details!
I placed an order for the Ghost Tint set since those are my jam. Tell me more about using Dullcote. I've got a pot of GW 'ardcoat, is that similar? I haven't really used any sort of coating on any of my models yet: the GW store manager who's taught me how to paint didn't really recommend it for anything other that a few specific circumstances, such as prepping a Space Marine shoulder pad for transfers. With 'ardcoat or Dullcote can I easily wipe off paint mistakes, and if that's the case I imagine I'd probably want to hand apply it just to specific areas so that I can do the rest of the detailing.
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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valhalla13013 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered Userregular
Purple
'Ardcoat is a gloss coat finish that is fairly thick and protective.
Testor's Dullcote is a very thin spray that dulls down your painted model and gives it a matte finish.
For my IF, I've been giving them a xoat of 'ardcoat, then hitting that with dullcote to tone don the gloss. It doesn't give a complete matte finish that way, but its way better, and I get the protection of the glosscoat.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
So plans have been accelerated. The 4 pack of tamiya panel accent paints got here today. I ordered it on 12/9 with a delivery date of 12/14 to 12/19 so it being super early is awesome but I haven't hit my Tau with the gloss varnish yet.
Probably gonna start doing it Thursday before work. I'd do it tomorrow but I have a dentist appointment.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Speaking of making glazes, I'd like to make a small Alpha Legion Kill Team, and I really like that metallic blue-green scheme of the Alpha Legion. I watched this tutorial, and I'd like to recreate it without buying additional paints. To create the metallic color, the painter base coat with a steel color (I've got leadbelcher air already), and Tamiya Clear Blue and Clear Green thinned down with Airbrush Medium. Can I create that same effect with the Citadel Air Paints and airbrush medium or with one of their regular paints and thinner/medium? My understanding is the Citadel technical gemstone paints are meant to be brushed over a metallic base. I wonder how difficult it would be to thin those down with the medium.
The follow up question is that once I've done that awesome bit of airbrushing, should I consider putting a bit of hardcoat on it? My fear is that while I do the rest of the details in a bright silver that cleaning up mistakes would not be very easy, so I'd hope that I could wipe mistakes off of hardcoat more easily.
Speaking from my experience doing a similar scheme with my Word Bearers: Leadbelcher isn't going to be bright enough. Prime black, hot the model with Leadbelcher, then drybrush Runefang Steel (or get some Rub n Buff if you can) all over so the edges and what not really stand out.
Once your tiny Alpha Legion dudes look like proto-Iron Warriors, buy some Minitaire Plasma Fluid Ghost Tint and hit them with that. It's the perfect color for Alpha Legion and it's airbrush ready so you don't have fiddle with thinning the gemstone paints.
Now that they look like Alpha Legion dudes, spray some Testors Dullcote on them if you want and then get to work on details!
I placed an order for the Ghost Tint set since those are my jam. Tell me more about using Dullcote. I've got a pot of GW 'ardcoat, is that similar? I haven't really used any sort of coating on any of my models yet: the GW store manager who's taught me how to paint didn't really recommend it for anything other that a few specific circumstances, such as prepping a Space Marine shoulder pad for transfers. With 'ardcoat or Dullcote can I easily wipe off paint mistakes, and if that's the case I imagine I'd probably want to hand apply it just to specific areas so that I can do the rest of the detailing.
If you're using the 40k Chaos Space Mans, you can use 'Ardcoat for protection and not lose allot of detail, but you're going to get real shiny dudes.
Like @valhalla130 said, Dullcote give a dull finish and protects what's under it but it doesn't protect as well as a gloss varnish. I've never used anything other than a layer Dullcote and my minis have been well protected from normal wear and tear.
'Ardcoat is a gloss coat finish that is fairly thick and protective.
Testor's Dullcote is a very thin spray that dulls down your painted model and gives it a matte finish.
For my IF, I've been giving them a xoat of 'ardcoat, then hitting that with dullcote to tone don the gloss. It doesn't give a complete matte finish that way, but its way better, and I get the protection of the glosscoat.
I do this, but replace 'ardcoat with Vallejo Gloss Varnish through my airbrush.
This might be a potentially silly / dumb question. But I have a bunch of minis from KDM that I want to re-base. I've only primed them (some aren't even primed), but they are fully assembled and glued to the base. Is my only / best option cutting them off the base with an exacto knife? I honestly can't remember if I used super glue or plastic cement glue for the basing...does that influence the decision any?
Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
I don’t think I’m doing a good job explaining my question. Does ‘Ardcoat or similar make it easier to wipe off paint? The intent would be to make mistake cleaning easier while adding to that car paint sheen. Understandably I can always paint over mistakes, but I think they would be highly visible due to the nature of Ghost Tint. Am I mistaken in that?
if it was superglue you could throw them in the freezer until the glue goes brittle and just snap them off the base.
if it wasn't superglue this process wont harm anything unless you are too violent with your snap. if it does not snap then odds are it wasn't superglue and you are stuck with the knife option.
Plastic cement wouldn’t do anything on Kingdom death minis since they aren’t plastic, so it’s probablt superglue. Put a new blade on your exacto and wedge it under the join, saw a bit then angle the blade up and it should pop right off.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
I don’t think I’m doing a good job explaining my question. Does ‘Ardcoat or similar make it easier to wipe off paint? The intent would be to make mistake cleaning easier while adding to that car paint sheen. Understandably I can always paint over mistakes, but I think they would be highly visible due to the nature of Ghost Tint. Am I mistaken in that?
It makes so that cleaning mistakes after they're dry doesn't ruin the paint job underneath what you've already sealed. Like, if you seal the mini and then make a mistake doing detail work, you can reasonably use some thinner or rub harder than you normally would without damaging the work you've already done.
If you catch it right away, wiping or using a damp brush to remove the mistake it is going to work about as well using either method in my experience. Also, if you seal before you start doing detail work, you're not going to accidentally smudge off your previous work if you touch the mini.
Plastic cement wouldn’t do anything on Kingdom death minis since they aren’t plastic, so it’s probablt superglue. Put a new blade on your exacto and wedge it under the join, saw a bit then angle the blade up and it should pop right off.
Um, KD minis are totes plastic. And if isn’t plastic cement holding mine together then it must be magic.
Plastic cement wouldn’t do anything on Kingdom death minis since they aren’t plastic, so it’s probablt superglue. Put a new blade on your exacto and wedge it under the join, saw a bit then angle the blade up and it should pop right off.
Um, KD minis are totes plastic. And if isn’t plastic cement holding mine together then it must be magic.
I have some of the resin KDM minis as well, but yeah, the base game stuff is deffo plastic. I'm starting to get that winter painting itch again, so I might start bombarding this thread with my terrible paintings, looking for some C&C
Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
I don’t think I’m doing a good job explaining my question. Does ‘Ardcoat or similar make it easier to wipe off paint? The intent would be to make mistake cleaning easier while adding to that car paint sheen. Understandably I can always paint over mistakes, but I think they would be highly visible due to the nature of Ghost Tint. Am I mistaken in that?
It makes so that cleaning mistakes after they're dry doesn't ruin the paint job underneath what you've already sealed. Like, if you seal the mini and then make a mistake doing detail work, you can reasonably use some thinner or rub harder than you normally would without damaging the work you've already done.
If you catch it right away, wiping or using a damp brush to remove the mistake it is going to work about as well using either method in my experience. Also, if you seal before you start doing detail work, you're not going to accidentally smudge off your previous work if you touch the mini.
I try to keep a wet brush on hand for mistakes, but even when I’m quick I always seem to have some paint that dries where it shouldn’t. I think I’m wetting my paint enough. In fact I think I was wetting my layers too much. My house interior may be really dry...
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
Purple
Sometimes paint just sticks really fast. I've always tried to get to my mistakes before they dry, but I usually just paint over my detailing mistakes. My models also like poop from a butt, so you should probably find a process you're comfortable with!
I seem to be having a problem with brush priming. I've tried Citadel's black primer, and Vallejo's white, grey, and black primers. And with all of them, they seem to be a little too thick out of the bottle for going straight on plastic. So I add a little water from the brush tip. Then the primer doesn't seem to stick as well or cover as well. But I'm afraid that I'll fill in detail if I don't thin it a little.
I still end up giving the model at least a thin, almost translucent coat of primer (it's especially noticeable on lighter-colored plastic if I'm priming black, or darker plastic if I'm priming white), but I'd like for it to look as close to Kneel's pic above.
Me, amateur converter, bored - "I wonder if I can convert that DI primaris lieutenant into a smash captain with some of the DW bits my buddy gave me?".....
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
snip
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
snip
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
If you’ve painted stuff, the recommendation is to use super glue.
Even if you scrap paint off it’ll still get messy using plastic glue.
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
snip
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
If you’ve painted stuff, the recommendation is to use super glue.
Even if you scrap paint off it’ll still get messy using plastic glue.
This. Superglue. The sub assemblies for the Snazzwagon are simply because of the insane angles I'd otherwise have to manipulate a brush into.
Kneel on
Want to see more of Kneel's slapdash slatherings?
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
snip
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
If you’ve painted stuff, the recommendation is to use super glue.
Even if you scrap paint off it’ll still get messy using plastic glue.
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
snip
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
If you’ve painted stuff, the recommendation is to use super glue.
Even if you scrap paint off it’ll still get messy using plastic glue.
This. Superglue. The sub assemblies for the Snazzwagon are simply because of the insane angles I'd otherwise have to manipulate a brush into.
This is good to know... I plan on grabbing speedfreaks on boxing day at my local game shop and I'm curious to see how other people are doing the assemblies.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
Hmm, I don't know if anyone here might be able to help me out with this. I'm planning on experimenting with adding Khinerai Lifetakers to my Daughters of Khaine lists, potentially in quite large numbers, but I do not trust all those spindly models not to break! I want to source some pillars/terrain-y bits that will fit on their 40mm bases that I can then attach them too more securely than using just their skinny tails, ideally something which is similar to the pillar on Morathi's base, does anyone know of where I might be able to find bits like that?
Hmm, I don't know if anyone here might be able to help me out with this. I'm planning on experimenting with adding Khinerai Lifetakers to my Daughters of Khaine lists, potentially in quite large numbers, but I do not trust all those spindly models not to break! I want to source some pillars/terrain-y bits that will fit on their 40mm bases that I can then attach them too more securely than using just their skinny tails, ideally something which is similar to the pillar on Morathi's base, does anyone know of where I might be able to find bits like that?
I found some plastic Greek Pillars that were pretty cheap, I think I got them at a craft store like Michael's. They're used to decorate wedding cakes, and they're hollow. I cut them into sections and filled them in with a little bit of epoxy and some Styrofoam bits to make them look like they're broken and strewn across the terrain. For other options you could probably use wine bottle corks or twist a few wires together to make tree trunks.
If you know anyone that plays Sylvaneth then they probably have a ton of leftover dryad sprues full of branches and bushes you could use to prop up your dainty dudes.
FC: 1435-5383-0883
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Need some help - not happy with the "exposed metal" colour I've chosen for my fleet, and colour theory seems to be aggressively throwing what I know about mixing back in my face. Could one of you who has done a really nice black-tinted-with-blue chime in with the recipe for the that? @Dr_Keenbean is the only person I can think of offhand who may have done one? But if you're one of the ones that did you should know what I'm talking about.
I seem to be having a problem with brush priming. I've tried Citadel's black primer, and Vallejo's white, grey, and black primers. And with all of them, they seem to be a little too thick out of the bottle for going straight on plastic. So I add a little water from the brush tip. Then the primer doesn't seem to stick as well or cover as well. But I'm afraid that I'll fill in detail if I don't thin it a little.
I still end up giving the model at least a thin, almost translucent coat of primer (it's especially noticeable on lighter-colored plastic if I'm priming black, or darker plastic if I'm priming white), but I'd like for it to look as close to Kneel's pic above.
Is this something I should be concerned about?
I had the same initial experience using Vallejo's brush on primer. I ended up grabbing a couple of reaper goblins to test with, and if you brush on straight from the bottle, it does indeed look like you'll lose detail / over cover the bits. However, the primer seems to dry tight, and no detail gets lost.
I still ended up getting an airbrush set up for priming, but when I just have 1 model to prime, I still use the brush on method. Use it out of the bottle, and just give it a bit of time to dry and cure. Test it on a model you don't care about if you don't trust my word (which I'd understand), but yeah, definitely works fine.
Diagnosed with AML on 6/1/12. Read about it: www.effleukemia.com
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Purple
I've got that exact compressor and brush, and can happily endorse it for priming and broad detail work.
However
I have found that the brush requires frequent breakdown cleanings, now that I've used it for a couple years. It's less of an issue if you're using airbrush-ready paints instead of guesswork-thinning other kinds of paint. I think I try to make things work sometimes that aren't the best mix, and then it's back to the scrub & clean routine.
Posts
Edit: is this color what you're looking for?
skip to 3:25 for the "Golden Yellow" demonstration.
I placed an order for the Ghost Tint set since those are my jam. Tell me more about using Dullcote. I've got a pot of GW 'ardcoat, is that similar? I haven't really used any sort of coating on any of my models yet: the GW store manager who's taught me how to paint didn't really recommend it for anything other that a few specific circumstances, such as prepping a Space Marine shoulder pad for transfers. With 'ardcoat or Dullcote can I easily wipe off paint mistakes, and if that's the case I imagine I'd probably want to hand apply it just to specific areas so that I can do the rest of the detailing.
Testor's Dullcote is a very thin spray that dulls down your painted model and gives it a matte finish.
For my IF, I've been giving them a xoat of 'ardcoat, then hitting that with dullcote to tone don the gloss. It doesn't give a complete matte finish that way, but its way better, and I get the protection of the glosscoat.
Probably gonna start doing it Thursday before work. I'd do it tomorrow but I have a dentist appointment.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
If you're using the 40k Chaos Space Mans, you can use 'Ardcoat for protection and not lose allot of detail, but you're going to get real shiny dudes.
Like @valhalla130 said, Dullcote give a dull finish and protects what's under it but it doesn't protect as well as a gloss varnish. I've never used anything other than a layer Dullcote and my minis have been well protected from normal wear and tear.
I do this, but replace 'ardcoat with Vallejo Gloss Varnish through my airbrush.
Then don't! If you mess up and get some silver paint on the ghost tint, you can just brush some ghost tint over it and it'll still look fine.
if it wasn't superglue this process wont harm anything unless you are too violent with your snap. if it does not snap then odds are it wasn't superglue and you are stuck with the knife option.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
It makes so that cleaning mistakes after they're dry doesn't ruin the paint job underneath what you've already sealed. Like, if you seal the mini and then make a mistake doing detail work, you can reasonably use some thinner or rub harder than you normally would without damaging the work you've already done.
If you catch it right away, wiping or using a damp brush to remove the mistake it is going to work about as well using either method in my experience. Also, if you seal before you start doing detail work, you're not going to accidentally smudge off your previous work if you touch the mini.
Um, KD minis are totes plastic. And if isn’t plastic cement holding mine together then it must be magic.
I have some of the resin KDM minis as well, but yeah, the base game stuff is deffo plastic. I'm starting to get that winter painting itch again, so I might start bombarding this thread with my terrible paintings, looking for some C&C
I try to keep a wet brush on hand for mistakes, but even when I’m quick I always seem to have some paint that dries where it shouldn’t. I think I’m wetting my paint enough. In fact I think I was wetting my layers too much. My house interior may be really dry...
Megatrakk Scrapjet: very little sub-assembling.
Defkilla Wartrike: moderate sub-assemblies.
Boomdakka Snazzwagon: DEAR GOD SO MANY SUB-ASSEMBLIES.
But hey-ho, it's all primed.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
I still end up giving the model at least a thin, almost translucent coat of primer (it's especially noticeable on lighter-colored plastic if I'm priming black, or darker plastic if I'm priming white), but I'd like for it to look as close to Kneel's pic above.
Is this something I should be concerned about?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I notice you prime everything.. to glue it all together after you've painted the subassemblies, do you use super glue or scrape off paint to use plastic glue?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I hope they make some jump-pack Primaris marines in the future. The jump-pack assault guys just look so cool: inceptors got nothin' on them IMO.
If you’ve painted stuff, the recommendation is to use super glue.
Even if you scrap paint off it’ll still get messy using plastic glue.
This. Superglue. The sub assemblies for the Snazzwagon are simply because of the insane angles I'd otherwise have to manipulate a brush into.
Visit him at Monstrous Pigments' Instagram and Facebook pages!
This is good to know... I plan on grabbing speedfreaks on boxing day at my local game shop and I'm curious to see how other people are doing the assemblies.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I found some plastic Greek Pillars that were pretty cheap, I think I got them at a craft store like Michael's. They're used to decorate wedding cakes, and they're hollow. I cut them into sections and filled them in with a little bit of epoxy and some Styrofoam bits to make them look like they're broken and strewn across the terrain. For other options you could probably use wine bottle corks or twist a few wires together to make tree trunks.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
I had the same initial experience using Vallejo's brush on primer. I ended up grabbing a couple of reaper goblins to test with, and if you brush on straight from the bottle, it does indeed look like you'll lose detail / over cover the bits. However, the primer seems to dry tight, and no detail gets lost.
I still ended up getting an airbrush set up for priming, but when I just have 1 model to prime, I still use the brush on method. Use it out of the bottle, and just give it a bit of time to dry and cure. Test it on a model you don't care about if you don't trust my word (which I'd understand), but yeah, definitely works fine.
It also makes priming super easy
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Which?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
However
I have found that the brush requires frequent breakdown cleanings, now that I've used it for a couple years. It's less of an issue if you're using airbrush-ready paints instead of guesswork-thinning other kinds of paint. I think I try to make things work sometimes that aren't the best mix, and then it's back to the scrub & clean routine.
Even still, it's pretty good for the cost.