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[Painting Miniatures] What colour is the best colour to paint your miniatures?

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Posts

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    GnomeTank wrote: »
    Khraul wrote: »
    As excited as I am for Contrast, I'm less excited for using their primer. You can't ship GW aerosol cans via Canada post so my local game shop can't get them in, meaning driving an hour and a half to get to a GW shop that carries their aerosols, or paying a ton of shipping each time I need a can.

    Hopefully the internet hive mind finds a cheap airbrush friendly alternative quickly, cuz I neeeeeed those contrast paints.

    Just grab a regular jar and thin it down with airbrush flow improver? I doubt there will be colors that are spray can only, unless I missed an announcement.

    The system requires a "magic" primer (only in rattlecan) + the actual paint (only in pots). So no color is spray only (or, indeed, spray at all), but you have to use a spray.

    The primer also comes in paint pots and I'm not sure how necessary it really is. I've seen some pictures from someone who says he used the special primer just for zethal highlighting over black primer and then used contrast paints over the whole model and it looked really good.

  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    Ah, I didn't realize it was a whole special system. Well hopefully the primer/spray side gets Air jars soon.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited May 13
    This was the tweet I saw


    Also more example, including conrast red over gold primer


    edit: list of paints
    Iyanden Yellow
    Blood Angel Red
    Volopus Pink
    Magos Purple
    Akhelian Green
    Gryph-hound Orange
    Flesh Tearers Red
    Shyish Purple
    Leviadon Blue
    Dark Angels Green
    Nazdreg Yellow
    Creed Camo (Pale Green)
    Aggaros Dunes (Sandy Cream)
    Snakebite Leather (Light Brown)
    Cygor Brown
    Ork Flesh (Green)
    Militarum Green
    Skeleton Horde (Ivory White)
    Gore-Grunta Fur (Red-Brown)
    Wyldwood (Dark Brown)
    Fyreslayer Flesh (Dark Skin Pink)
    Darkoath Flesh (Light Skin Pink)
    Space Wolves Grey (Blue-Grey)
    Black Templar (Black)
    Warp Lightning (Green)
    Guilliman Flesh (Midtone Skin Pink)
    Gryph-Charger Grey (Pale Blue-Grey)
    Basilicanum Grey
    Talassar Blue
    Aethermatic Blue
    Plaguebearer Flesh (Pale Green)
    Ultramarines Blue
    Terradon Turquoise
    Apothecary White

    I really want to see the effect of Apothecary White.

    honovere on
    Brainleech
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Purple
    I was under the impression that the "magic" primer was both necessary and only in rattlecans. (I mean, of course you can put contrast over whatever, but I understood that it would only give the expected effect over the "magic" primer.)

    But I am happy that I was mistaken.

    (Incidentally, I tried nighthaunt gloom over mid-tone gray (vallejo) over black primer (GW) instead of the recommended gloom over white primer, and I did not get the expected results. Darker as expected, obviously, but also it didn't quite flow the way I thought it would.)

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
    Dr_Keenbean
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Purple
    I wonder if it's all hands on deck at Vallejo HQ after this news broke.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
    Khraul
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Purple
    Admittedly, I've been trying to follow this thread, but whatever the product is still completely confuses me. I get that it's some kind of paint that emulates talent for the laymen, but that's as far as I've gotten. :P

    Elvenshae
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Purple
    It's a heavily-pigmented wash/glaze hybrid. It tints the area where applied fading to darker as it moves closer to recessed areas.

    It's like a goopy shading wash that doesn't leave tide marks.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
    GnomeTankDiannaoChong
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    No metallic colors though, which I mostly understand...but I'd love a gold/leadbelcher one for quickly getting my Stormcast Eternals done. My Ultramarines are already so far along that switching to contrast for them now would probably not work out.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I want to try them at least, because those Tau in that tweet with their large flat surfaces show like no pooling anywhere. That seems impressive.

    GnomeTankDraeven
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    That painter tweeted that it required good brush control though, so it may pool in the hands of a lesser painter.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Purple
    I'd think it'd pool in anyone's hands. That's what liquids do when you try to hold them.
    I know where the door is. I'll see myself out.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    BloodySlothStraginthonovereGnomeTankBetsuniH3KnucklesDarkewolfeNipsArcticLancerSmokeStacksElvenshae
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    I have heard that it does not pool/tide mark nearly so readily as your standard citadel wash does, but it will still do so over large, flat areas if you're not careful.
    It looks like the primer is not necessary for the paints to work, it's just providing the 'contrast' for it to show up against (I did hear somewhere that there are actually two contrast primers in the range, the bone one and a darker grey-ish one? But I can't find confirmation of that anywhere), seems like you can use them over other basecoats, but the final colour will be change, they won't work very well over black primer, for instance.



  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    That is what I am curious about is it a specific primer or can I just use the current range? as the only pics I saw of it looked the same with a new graphic talking about the contrast paint.

  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    edited May 13
    Purple
    Lots of these questions answered in this video

    Dr_Keenbean on
    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
    H3KnucklesExtreaminatusElbasunuElvenshaeDraeven
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    GnomeTank wrote: »
    No metallic colors though, which I mostly understand...but I'd love a gold/leadbelcher one for quickly getting my Stormcast Eternals done. My Ultramarines are already so far along that switching to contrast for them now would probably not work out.

    They work well enough over metallic undercoats to effectively make coloured metallics, at least according to that guy in that tweet that brought his gold-primed enginseer along to test with.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
    GnomeTankH3KnucklesElvenshae
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I was planning on trying fleshy-schemed tyranids with primarily washes and glazes, so these contrast paints have me excited for that. Tyranids got lots of bumpy surfaces that should lend itself nicely, and with some medium, blending multiple colours together.

    website_header.jpg
    BloodySlothH3KnucklesElvenshae
  • DelduwathDelduwath Registered User regular
    Lots of these questions answered in this video

    This looks very impressive.

    H3KnucklesBurnageElvenshaeDraeven
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Purple
    It really does look impressive. I was very skeptical at first, but seeing it in action, these could be a game changer, especially when painting big units of chaff models.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
    Mazzyx
  • DelduwathDelduwath Registered User regular
    Poor Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, and all they others; they're about to lose the title of Talent-In-A-Jar.

    Extreaminatus
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    Can confirm: P3 Morrow White is probably the best commonly-available white paint.

    @Badablack 's suggestion of thinning with white artist's ink is a good one too. They are shocking opaque.

    No P3 at the local store, what about something by Reaper or Army Painter?

  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Purple
    It looks like an amazingly fast way to get lower tabletop quality minis out. Which is awesome, but I don't see myself adding it to my painting so far.

    What is this I don't even.
  • MazzyxMazzyx Comedy Gold Registered User regular
    Purple
    GnomeTank wrote: »
    It really does look impressive. I was very skeptical at first, but seeing it in action, these could be a game changer, especially when painting big units of chaff models.

    I think I am going to try them out on bloodletters.

    03x29di.png
    Draeven
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    Can confirm: P3 Morrow White is probably the best commonly-available white paint.

    @Badablack 's suggestion of thinning with white artist's ink is a good one too. They are shocking opaque.

    No P3 at the local store, what about something by Reaper or Army Painter?

    Sadly, no Reaper either. Maybe I'll just order some P3 Morrow White.

  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Purple
    Choosing how to base my minis is just..... The hardest choice.

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    Khraul wrote: »
    Choosing how to base my minis is just..... The hardest choice.

    for some yes for others no.
    it's the heroic bases they offer I might use but it's ones from the 40k and aos.

    I am thinking about the turret for either my custom hive tyrant [just have not had the time or energy for it] or my carnifex. the tree from aos for either the shadowseer or solitaire and so on. I have used parts from bits boxes to do gaps {when there is a gap between their foot and the base. Because I set the models pose differently for various reasons. I used some of the immortal spure parts for my orcs and tyranids

  • DocSamsonDocSamson Registered User regular
    Working on a Titanicus paint scheme and I know I want it to have purple with gold trim but not be just straight Xestobiax. Pardon the test job, right now leaning towards this purple and grey combo, with white just being used for the head and maybe the occasional other armour piece (knee or crest etc).
    wNlpW8G.jpg

    Would a lighter grey maybe suit it better?

    Also settled on a quick 30 minute paint scheme to bang out the scenery, pretty happy with how quick this turns around:
    e18AOYo.jpg

    NipsH3KnucklesCalica
  • BloodySlothBloodySloth Registered User regular
    Purple
    Last post about my Tomb Kings team for a while. I started work on some peripheral minis like the coach and some star players and have kind of burned out; my group's league is starting up this week and I'm hoping that will give me some momentum to keep making progress.

    These are my Tomb Guardians! It took me a long time to settle on what I wanted to use to build these guys; I wanted them to look something like a combination of a reanimated, mummified corpse, and a magical construct. I ended up using converted Necron Lychguard, with a bunch of WHFB Tomb Guard bits and some conversion bits from Puppets War. A lot of disparate pieces that I think came together really well. The Lychguard come with a big extra spinal column on their backs that starts nowhere and ends nowhere. I ended up using those as their main spines by clipping out the main lumbar bit of the necron. The result I think makes more aesthetic sense, helps blur the line for me between construct and skeleton, and gives the Guardians some needed height to sell the 5 Strength.

    There's more angles in the spoiler, alongside some group shots and my most recent WIPS: the Star Player Hack Enslash; a guy I'm going to use as a Wizard (I originally ordered him off the internet to make a big 5 Strength Star Player out of, but he's way smaller than I thought); and my coach. I'm still trying to decide if I want to try cast light on my Wizard. It's something I've never done before, and I really like the way his skin turned out, but if I can get the cast light from the fire to look right I think it'd be really cool.


    yduznxnx9gun.jpg

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    xlxrzw7h09u8.jpg

    fy8t5q4b2xb8.jpg

    plmjywbfqva1.jpg

    6s41kttdemk4.jpg

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    3gtw39nzx2fh.jpg

    gopkxcuo5bfw.jpg

    DelduwathArcticLancerhonovereNipsRiusStragintBetsunivalhalla130DiannaoChongVikingH3KnucklesCalicaIanatorWatcherLord_Asmodeusmanji
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    I love that chainsword skellie!

    website_header.jpg
    honovereBloodySloth
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Purple
    I just finished my new intro box Battletech miniatures, plus a couple extras! Yay!! My goal with this entire batch was to get them done as quickly as possible, which meant minimizing the number of steps I needed to take. Tabletop Quality, as it were. Not that I can do anything but.

    Here's Team Yellow versus Team Purple:
    BwNJejIh.jpg

    Team Yellow: White Primer, Yellow Basecoat, then panel line with Casandora Yellow wash (amazing, but a little fiddly), detail, then topcoat and base. The panel lining took approximately forever, and is a little inconsistent across all six figs, but I'm happy with how it turned out. It looks much more orange in person, which really makes the figs pop.
    mTQ0e0El.jpgfOMQwNVl.jpg
    icsoKTzl.jpg

    Team Purple: White Primer, Purple Basecoat, then drybrush with Lucius Lilac (amazing drybrush paint, full stop), detail, topcoat and base. These six figures took about 1/4 the time as Team Yellow, because drybrushing is infinitely faster than panel-lining to bring out the detail.
    zOhTJsAl.jpgCnZWznHl.jpg
    Q5zd8w8l.jpg

    I'm really happy with how these came out in the end, and now it's lit a fire under me to keep painting and keep up the momentum. I'm already halfway done with another lance, and hope to have it done in a week or so; combined this is already four or five times the progress I made compared to all of last year.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    StragintRiusBloodySlothArcticLancerH3KnucklesCalicaIanatorWatcherLord_AsmodeusTheColonel
  • BloodySlothBloodySloth Registered User regular
    Purple
    I love that purple. And I love tying the two together by alternating their armor and windshield colors.

  • DelduwathDelduwath Registered User regular
    This just came up in my Twitter timeline:


    So like... what. Also, how.

    H3KnucklesNipsDraevenRiusArcticLancerCalicaSmokeStacksvalhalla130IanatorLord_AsmodeusDiannaoChongBurnagestopgap
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    I finally finished a Primaris. I'm not sure how I feel about the Nurgle's Rot on the base, though.
    oYihSFx.jpg
    O63Od4o.jpg

    H3KnucklesBrainleechWatcherBetsuniGnomeTankIanator
  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    I am curious what did you use as a primer? white? black? zandari dust?

  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Purple
    Averland Sunset

  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    JustTee wrote: »
    So I set up my airbrush last night and primed some new Gloomhaven minis, and said Eff It, and primed the other KDM monsters I had assembled. I think I'm improving with live troubleshooting of airbrushing, as I had a couple separate and different issues last night that I was able to work through. I think I *probably* should be using an airbrush with a bigger nozzle for priming, but I got through 5 gloomhaven minis and 8 KDM boss monsters with only minor issues.

    One thing was clogging. I was zenithal priming, but the base coat of black meant that I had to do ~13 minis all fully coated, which meant a lot of black primer. I did a small bowl twice, then got cocky/stupid and did a large bowl of primer. However, I finally figured out how to backblow (I think that's the term), and that seemed to make a huge deal in terms of being able to mix the airflow improver and the primer. So, I had one clog here with the black primer, but after figuring out the back blow, no more clogs for the rest of the session.

    The next issue I was having was that I was getting some splatter on the minis when I was first pressing the trigger down (airflow only, no paint). I couldn't really figure out why (I was cleaning the front of the airbrush regularly), but an easy enough solution was to depress the trigger with the brush facing my hand first, move it to the model, then send paint. Super duper obvious, but took me several minis to work through it.


    I have a few questions though:
    First - I use a ventilation paint station and a mask with filters. I don't have the ventilation station venting *into* anything. Is that kosher? Or should I rig it to vent into a bag or something?
    You're still venting particles. I used to have my station with the vent hose up against a window screen, and when I finally moved it, I had a perfect circle painted on the screen, even with the labrynthine air path and filter liner. These days, I have an old sock over the vent with a ziplock bag around it.

    It means painting doesn't put little particles in the air that will settle over the gaming area.

    H3Knuckles
  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    edited May 15
    Purple
    I picked up my first Finecast minis, Eldar Rangers, and I think I can understand the complaints: their rifles all curve to the side. I know some women say they don’t mind, but I’m very self conscious about it. So how do I fix them? Do I put them in near boiling water for a minute and gently bend them straight?

    Edit: also any other things I should be aware of when working with finecast?

    italianranma on
    飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
    H3Knuckles
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Near boiling isn’t necessary. As hot as your tap can make it should be enough. The real trick, however, is having ice water handy to cool it down fast after unbending and ‘lock’ the new structure in.
    Also, even with that, it will still try to return to its base form a little, so you should over-correct the problem before setting it.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
    italianranmaBurnageBloodySloth
  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    A different, worse colour
    FJbBCNa.jpg

    Painting a viney lass. I'm not so big on the ethereal sort scheme. Keep em fleshy, y'know.

    DelduwathBetsuniIanatorNipsvalhalla130BurnageBloodySlothDiannaoChongH3KnucklesStragintRiusVikingWatcherArcticLancerElvenshaeLord_Asmodeus
  • BurnageBurnage Registered User regular
    Purple
    I picked up my first Finecast minis, Eldar Rangers, and I think I can understand the complaints: their rifles all curve to the side. I know some women say they don’t mind, but I’m very self conscious about it. So how do I fix them? Do I put them in near boiling water for a minute and gently bend them straight?

    Edit: also any other things I should be aware of when working with finecast?

    Finecast is brittle as fuck compared to plastic or metal. Expect those ranger rifles to snap off just when you're handling them - a few of the ones on mine did.

  • CalicaCalica Registered User regular
    These replies just keep getting funnier :razz:

    Jedoc wrote: »
    The GOP cares about babies until they're born, soldiers until they're in need of care, and families until they interfere with stockholder dividends.
    SmokeStacks
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