Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
Right but like, is there a reason it's not suitable for home use, or is it just saying that it's only rated to a certain level.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Right but like, is there a reason it's not suitable for home use, or is it just saying that it's only rated to a certain level.
It means some training is required. Basically if you don't do a proper mask fitting then it's next to useless - it might not be the right size/shape for your face.
And you need someone else to help you do that, as the vents make it trickier than just doing a scuba mask etc as you can't form a vacuum.
All they'll do is get you to look in different directions and breathe in and out whilst feeling for a leak (your face changes shape as you move your head), but obviously these things do fit most people it's just that 'most' people is no way near legally air tight for being actually air tight at the edges of the mask in all cases. Shouldn't be a problem unless you have stubble or a beard - even then you might be fine.
Tastyfish on
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
Hmm well, I hope it'll be fine with my beardy stubble. For the Airbrush thinner (I think Vallejo was recommended previously, I'll check that out) is it basically just Medium? I'm curious if there's anything extra in it. I know acrylics aren't generally toxic (not that I want to breathe them in) but is the thinner more or less the same thing as the acrylic medium?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
Hmm well, I hope it'll be fine with my beardy stubble. For the Airbrush thinner (I think Vallejo was recommended previously, I'll check that out) is it basically just Medium? I'm curious if there's anything extra in it. I know acrylics aren't generally toxic (not that I want to breathe them in) but is the thinner more or less the same thing as the acrylic medium?
It's actually a large.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Hmm well, I hope it'll be fine with my beardy stubble. For the Airbrush thinner (I think Vallejo was recommended previously, I'll check that out) is it basically just Medium? I'm curious if there's anything extra in it. I know acrylics aren't generally toxic (not that I want to breathe them in) but is the thinner more or less the same thing as the acrylic medium?
I recommend airflow improver over thinner. Thinner makes the paint dry faster which can cause clogs in the brush. Airflow improver has the opposite effect.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My friend plays a lot of DnD, and I've been out of doing proper mini painting for awhile. So I picked up an inexpensive rogue Reaper Bones. I have to say, this came out WAY better than I expected. Some of the pictures a little washed out.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
The problem I have with D&D minis is few of them I would just get to paint
Most of the tieflings are meh some are good some are horrible there are a few I would like but I don't know if they ever made them
The dragonborn are just as bad to far worse
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Hmm well, I hope it'll be fine with my beardy stubble. For the Airbrush thinner (I think Vallejo was recommended previously, I'll check that out) is it basically just Medium? I'm curious if there's anything extra in it. I know acrylics aren't generally toxic (not that I want to breathe them in) but is the thinner more or less the same thing as the acrylic medium?
I recommend airflow improver over thinner. Thinner makes the paint dry faster which can cause clogs in the brush. Airflow improver has the opposite effect.
Worth noting and I'll keep that in mind. I am still curious what's in both if anyone knows.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
The problem I have with D&D minis is few of them I would just get to paint
Most of the tieflings are meh some are good some are horrible there are a few I would like but I don't know if they ever made them
The dragonborn are just as bad to far worse
Working at a game store I've spent a lot of time looking at the dnd mini packs and I've become convinced that they purposefully pair every cool pose with a terrible one. This pack is one of the ones I used as an example while explaining my conspiracy theory to coworkers
I don't think it's a conspiracy more of deal with it
So it rained and though it did pick up my spirits later I still felt really down on myself {feelings of doom} I worked on my custom hive tyrant {hitting the point I need to get green stuff} I won't take pics of it yet as I am scared to do one part since it's a pain to get and kind of hard to do what I want to do without math
So I built a chaplain out of spare parts It's the old dark angels command kit I am somehow going to file down the hooded face and chop the back off a skull for his helm
+2
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Hmm well, I hope it'll be fine with my beardy stubble. For the Airbrush thinner (I think Vallejo was recommended previously, I'll check that out) is it basically just Medium? I'm curious if there's anything extra in it. I know acrylics aren't generally toxic (not that I want to breathe them in) but is the thinner more or less the same thing as the acrylic medium?
I recommend airflow improver over thinner. Thinner makes the paint dry faster which can cause clogs in the brush. Airflow improver has the opposite effect.
Worth noting and I'll keep that in mind. I am still curious what's in both if anyone knows.
From what I've found the vallejo airbrush thinner is distilled water, 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, acrylic flow improver, and acrylic flow retarder.
Vallejo flow improver just seems to be a medium.
Been trying to find video tutorials to get a good cell shaded look on minis and the more I watch the more I'm convincing myself that this is gonna be a big old nightmare to do on Tau infantry.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
If the flow improver is just medium it sort of begs the question of why not just use medium for the job, but there's probably a different balance, and I suppose it's cheaper for the amount most likely.
Whenever I get new brushes I can never tell if I've gotten all the water-soluble glue out.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Been watching any videos I could to try and figure out how to paint this cell shaded look from Borderlands for my Maliwan Tau and it seems like there is a lot more going than just painting the colors and then painting all the edges and recesses black.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited July 2019
Almost done with the first 3 models for my frostgrave warband. Mostly contrast.
Edit: I guess not almost done. I do want to try to do a glow effect for the eyes and mouth, gonna try object source lighting for the lantern, adding rust to the pickaxe, shovel, and lamp, and then I'm gonna try to add a spooky glow somewhat up the legs and around their feet on the base.
Also gonna do an agrax shade over most of the model and then a green shade on the gravestones.
Made more progress. Did the rust and washes. Gonna work on the base and spooky effect tonight, might also try the glow from the eyes and lamp but I might save that for tomorrow.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+3
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I'm still cracking away on this Keeper of Secrets, getting close to calling it done, I just want to do some freehand on the cape and then do all the (many, many) gemstones, and then finish up any rough patches (plus the base, obviously).
Progress on my Repulsecutioner. Decals on, waiting for pin washing.
EDIT: Oof, photo's real grey from rainy day outside. The lighter part is much much more "enamel green" then that.
McGibs on
+15
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I started the spooky glow and I like it so far but I did want to try and glaze the green up the legs. I'm not sure it is necessary though. I used hexwraith flame so I was thinking of just thinning it with a medium and glazing up the leg until I got a good color. I still need to dry brush the base a bit and I'm also trying to find good grass tufts to add.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Why is it so goddamn hard not to tip over paint pots? This is my Vietnam.
elastic band around 3 pots will make them stable and far less prone to tipping
or bluetac/postertac on the base
or 3d print a holder
or you could simply transfer the paint to dropper bottles instead of the default.
I'm trying blutac now. No accidents so far, but no cause for them, either. (I haven't bumped the pots yet.)
I personally really dislike dropper bottles. Right now I'm painting up the leather parts of my beastclaws. I need one drop of leather brown. I shake the bottle, and out comes, like always, an unstoppable flood, half of which ends up on the palette, and half of which permanently encrusts the bottle when I inevitably give up stopping the flood and just cork the bottle.
This is my Vietnam.
Sic transit gloria mundi.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I think I'm fairly done with the pumpkin minions. The lamp did not come out how I wanted, I kind of messed up the process. The mouth and eyes were too small to get a good glow but they don't look bad.
Just gonna buy some grass tufts, something dark this weekend and then I'll call them done.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+5
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Getting way more comfortable with using contrast paints. Painting is going a lot faster. Finished another model for the frostgrave warband. It feels a bit messy but I still like it.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
I think I'm about ready to call this Keeper of Secrets done, I may go back and do some touch-ups later on, and I think the base could do with some grass tuftys or something on it, but for now I'm more than happy with the finished piece, I think it might be the best thing I've ever painted, in fact, so, er, sorry for the upcoming barrage of pics...
I think I'm about ready to call this Keeper of Secrets done, I may go back and do some touch-ups later on, and I think the base could do with some grass tuftys or something on it, but for now I'm more than happy with the finished piece, I think it might be the best thing I've ever painted, in fact, so, er, sorry for the upcoming barrage of pics...
{snip}
I'm keenly interested in how you painted a couple of parts of this model, as I just grabbed one off a guy on reddit for like 50% of retail new on sprue.
Did you keep the cape off to paint separately or paint anything in else pre assembled?
I was like "this is good," then I got to the close-up of thigh and I started sweating. It was TOO good!
I really don't know what I'm doing. I've started painting mansions of madness investigator figs, primarily with contrast paints and it definitely feels a little like cheating but also it kind of feels like I'm just hitting them with the right colors off the reference chart and not really painting them or learning anything really. It's probably fine for what they are. The sculpts are trash with weird seams that I have to force the contrast paint out of, but it's the cheapest way to get the Arkham figures for use in the LCG and with them down on a table as player pawns any color is a giant step up from the character placement cards the game uses. But I think when I'm done with all of these I want to sit down with something I can really dive into for a while and feel like learning or honing of skill in involved
My only comment - and it feels gross to even mention this, given how good that piece is - is that the eyes seem oddly bleak, and blend in with the rest of the face. Is it just the angle, and the horns/headpiece are casting a shadow on them? I feel like making them either brighter or darker would make them stand out more and improve the presence of the model.
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
.I'm keenly interested in how you painted a couple of parts of this model, as I just grabbed one off a guy on reddit for like 50% of retail new on sprue.
Did you keep the cape off to paint separately or paint anything in else pre assembled?
Also what purples did you use on this one?
I left the cape, ponytail, and base off for the entirety of the painting process. The cape is actually kind of an annoying piece, it's pretty flimsy, with only small connections between the two halves, and I find painting big, smooth areas troublesome to begin with!
I also left the loincloth and dangly hip thingies off until I had finished the skin/tights and done the base coat on the sub-assemblies, just to make things a little easier.
For the purple skin I did a quick and cheap zenithal highlight base with Mechanicus Standard Grey spray from the bottom and Grey Seer from the top.
-Then an all over wash of Druchii Violet to show where the contours are, with an extra coat onto the shadowed areas.
-Genestealer Purple highlight onto the raised areas.
-Genestealer Purple/Pallid Wych Flesh as a further highlight.
-Then a glaze of Magos Purple to bring it all back together.
I may go back and do some further highlights at some point though.
The purple tights just start at Genestealer Purple and add progressively more Xereus Purple, and then progressively more Chaos Black, to darken the tone, with a final Magos Purple glaze at the end again, I don't have an airbrush or anything for smoother blending, so you can probably get a smoother result than I have with the proper tools.
My only comment - and it feels gross to even mention this, given how good that piece is - is that the eyes seem oddly bleak, and blend in with the rest of the face. Is it just the angle, and the horns/headpiece are casting a shadow on them? I feel like making them either brighter or darker would make them stand out more and improve the presence of the model.
My recommendation would be to not glue the headpiece thing on until after painting the face, it makes it quite tricky to dab anything onto the eyes!
Though to be fair I did intend them to appear fairly dark (it's the same gold recipe as the rest of the model but with a black sclera) these are soulless daemons bringing empty promises! It's part of the reason I'm using NMM on the daemons themselves but true metallics on the bases, with the idea being that the daemons are coming into this rusting Chamonite wasteland with shining gifts of impossible metal and wealth, so I do want the eyes to be quite sinister.
My only comment - and it feels gross to even mention this, given how good that piece is - is that the eyes seem oddly bleak, and blend in with the rest of the face. Is it just the angle, and the horns/headpiece are casting a shadow on them? I feel like making them either brighter or darker would make them stand out more and improve the presence of the model.
My recommendation would be to not glue the headpiece thing on until after painting the face, it makes it quite tricky to dab anything onto the eyes!
Though to be fair I did intend them to appear fairly dark (it's the same gold recipe as the rest of the model but with a black sclera) these are soulless daemons bringing empty promises! It's part of the reason I'm using NMM on the daemons themselves but true metallics on the bases, with the idea being that the daemons are coming into this rusting Chamonite wasteland with shining gifts of impossible metal and wealth, so I do want the eyes to be quite sinister.
Fair enough. I just felt like the eyes don't stand out enough, at least in that photo, but I imagine it's different when you see it in person!
I think I'm about ready to call this Keeper of Secrets done, I may go back and do some touch-ups later on, and I think the base could do with some grass tuftys or something on it, but for now I'm more than happy with the finished piece, I think it might be the best thing I've ever painted, in fact, so, er, sorry for the upcoming barrage of pics...
.I'm keenly interested in how you painted a couple of parts of this model, as I just grabbed one off a guy on reddit for like 50% of retail new on sprue.
Did you keep the cape off to paint separately or paint anything in else pre assembled?
Also what purples did you use on this one?
I left the cape, ponytail, and base off for the entirety of the painting process. The cape is actually kind of an annoying piece, it's pretty flimsy, with only small connections between the two halves, and I find painting big, smooth areas troublesome to begin with!
I also left the loincloth and dangly hip thingies off until I had finished the skin/tights and done the base coat on the sub-assemblies, just to make things a little easier.
For the purple skin I did a quick and cheap zenithal highlight base with Mechanicus Standard Grey spray from the bottom and Grey Seer from the top.
-Then an all over wash of Druchii Violet to show where the contours are, with an extra coat onto the shadowed areas.
-Genestealer Purple highlight onto the raised areas.
-Genestealer Purple/Pallid Wych Flesh as a further highlight.
-Then a glaze of Magos Purple to bring it all back together.
I may go back and do some further highlights at some point though.
The purple tights just start at Genestealer Purple and add progressively more Xereus Purple, and then progressively more Chaos Black, to darken the tone, with a final Magos Purple glaze at the end again, I don't have an airbrush or anything for smoother blending, so you can probably get a smoother result than I have with the proper tools.
My only comment - and it feels gross to even mention this, given how good that piece is - is that the eyes seem oddly bleak, and blend in with the rest of the face. Is it just the angle, and the horns/headpiece are casting a shadow on them? I feel like making them either brighter or darker would make them stand out more and improve the presence of the model.
My recommendation would be to not glue the headpiece thing on until after painting the face, it makes it quite tricky to dab anything onto the eyes!
Though to be fair I did intend them to appear fairly dark (it's the same gold recipe as the rest of the model but with a black sclera) these are soulless daemons bringing empty promises! It's part of the reason I'm using NMM on the daemons themselves but true metallics on the bases, with the idea being that the daemons are coming into this rusting Chamonite wasteland with shining gifts of impossible metal and wealth, so I do want the eyes to be quite sinister.
Once painted, do you just superglue the sub assemblies together? How well did that work with what looks like some very small contact points on the cape etc?
I have this weird thing about needing to use plastic glue for everything
Once painted, do you just superglue the sub assemblies together? How well did that work with what looks like some very small contact points on the cape etc?
I have this weird thing about needing to use plastic glue for everything
Just superglue, yes. The cape will attach quite securely at the shoulders, it's only the wrist connections that are tricky to glue. For the hip danglies and loincloth I glued them on after I had done the Balor Brown basecoat but before the highlights, but that was only so I could get the NMM looking okay across the whole model, you could paint them entirely separately if you prefer.
Oh, and I forgot to say that I also left the vampire collar off until the end too to leave access to the back of the head/shoulders free.
I got the Shapeshift transport bag a while back, and it's p awesome. I got two metal sheets to use for magnetized models, but didn't try them until now. Yep, liking this even more, so I ordered a pile of magnets and metal sheets for the rest of the trays.
I know what dense foam is and closed cel foam but Upholstery foam? as because I got the idea to get one of the plano larger containers to store all my eldar stuff but I was going to first try it out this theory with my tyranids but I would need to get the foam to store them and I need to get large sheets to cut down to fit the tub
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Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
This model sounds like a lot of work... I hope I can do it justice
I spent a lot of time on it cos it's really the centerpiece of the army (and a gorgeous sculpt aside). Though given Slaanesh's currently, er, I'll politely say 'skewed' summoning power in Age of Sigmar at present I'm probably going to need to paint at least a couple more at some point...
Posts
It means some training is required. Basically if you don't do a proper mask fitting then it's next to useless - it might not be the right size/shape for your face.
And you need someone else to help you do that, as the vents make it trickier than just doing a scuba mask etc as you can't form a vacuum.
All they'll do is get you to look in different directions and breathe in and out whilst feeling for a leak (your face changes shape as you move your head), but obviously these things do fit most people it's just that 'most' people is no way near legally air tight for being actually air tight at the edges of the mask in all cases. Shouldn't be a problem unless you have stubble or a beard - even then you might be fine.
It's actually a large.
I recommend airflow improver over thinner. Thinner makes the paint dry faster which can cause clogs in the brush. Airflow improver has the opposite effect.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Most of the tieflings are meh some are good some are horrible there are a few I would like but I don't know if they ever made them
The dragonborn are just as bad to far worse
Worth noting and I'll keep that in mind. I am still curious what's in both if anyone knows.
Working at a game store I've spent a lot of time looking at the dnd mini packs and I've become convinced that they purposefully pair every cool pose with a terrible one. This pack is one of the ones I used as an example while explaining my conspiracy theory to coworkers
So it rained and though it did pick up my spirits later I still felt really down on myself {feelings of doom} I worked on my custom hive tyrant {hitting the point I need to get green stuff} I won't take pics of it yet as I am scared to do one part since it's a pain to get and kind of hard to do what I want to do without math
So I built a chaplain out of spare parts
It's the old dark angels command kit I am somehow going to file down the hooded face and chop the back off a skull for his helm
From what I've found the vallejo airbrush thinner is distilled water, 99.9% isopropyl alcohol, acrylic flow improver, and acrylic flow retarder.
Vallejo flow improver just seems to be a medium.
Been trying to find video tutorials to get a good cell shaded look on minis and the more I watch the more I'm convincing myself that this is gonna be a big old nightmare to do on Tau infantry.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Whenever I get new brushes I can never tell if I've gotten all the water-soluble glue out.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Edit: I guess not almost done. I do want to try to do a glow effect for the eyes and mouth, gonna try object source lighting for the lantern, adding rust to the pickaxe, shovel, and lamp, and then I'm gonna try to add a spooky glow somewhat up the legs and around their feet on the base.
Also gonna do an agrax shade over most of the model and then a green shade on the gravestones.
Made more progress. Did the rust and washes. Gonna work on the base and spooky effect tonight, might also try the glow from the eyes and lamp but I might save that for tomorrow.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
elastic band around 3 pots will make them stable and far less prone to tipping
or bluetac/postertac on the base
or 3d print a holder
or you could simply transfer the paint to dropper bottles instead of the default.
Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
EDIT: Oof, photo's real grey from rainy day outside. The lighter part is much much more "enamel green" then that.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm trying blutac now. No accidents so far, but no cause for them, either. (I haven't bumped the pots yet.)
I personally really dislike dropper bottles. Right now I'm painting up the leather parts of my beastclaws. I need one drop of leather brown. I shake the bottle, and out comes, like always, an unstoppable flood, half of which ends up on the palette, and half of which permanently encrusts the bottle when I inevitably give up stopping the flood and just cork the bottle.
This is my Vietnam.
Just gonna buy some grass tufts, something dark this weekend and then I'll call them done.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm keenly interested in how you painted a couple of parts of this model, as I just grabbed one off a guy on reddit for like 50% of retail new on sprue.
Did you keep the cape off to paint separately or paint anything in else pre assembled?
Also what purples did you use on this one?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I really don't know what I'm doing. I've started painting mansions of madness investigator figs, primarily with contrast paints and it definitely feels a little like cheating but also it kind of feels like I'm just hitting them with the right colors off the reference chart and not really painting them or learning anything really. It's probably fine for what they are. The sculpts are trash with weird seams that I have to force the contrast paint out of, but it's the cheapest way to get the Arkham figures for use in the LCG and with them down on a table as player pawns any color is a giant step up from the character placement cards the game uses. But I think when I'm done with all of these I want to sit down with something I can really dive into for a while and feel like learning or honing of skill in involved
My only comment - and it feels gross to even mention this, given how good that piece is - is that the eyes seem oddly bleak, and blend in with the rest of the face. Is it just the angle, and the horns/headpiece are casting a shadow on them? I feel like making them either brighter or darker would make them stand out more and improve the presence of the model.
I left the cape, ponytail, and base off for the entirety of the painting process. The cape is actually kind of an annoying piece, it's pretty flimsy, with only small connections between the two halves, and I find painting big, smooth areas troublesome to begin with!
I also left the loincloth and dangly hip thingies off until I had finished the skin/tights and done the base coat on the sub-assemblies, just to make things a little easier.
For the purple skin I did a quick and cheap zenithal highlight base with Mechanicus Standard Grey spray from the bottom and Grey Seer from the top.
-Then an all over wash of Druchii Violet to show where the contours are, with an extra coat onto the shadowed areas.
-Genestealer Purple highlight onto the raised areas.
-Genestealer Purple/Pallid Wych Flesh as a further highlight.
-Then a glaze of Magos Purple to bring it all back together.
I may go back and do some further highlights at some point though.
The purple tights just start at Genestealer Purple and add progressively more Xereus Purple, and then progressively more Chaos Black, to darken the tone, with a final Magos Purple glaze at the end again, I don't have an airbrush or anything for smoother blending, so you can probably get a smoother result than I have with the proper tools.
My recommendation would be to not glue the headpiece thing on until after painting the face, it makes it quite tricky to dab anything onto the eyes!
Though to be fair I did intend them to appear fairly dark (it's the same gold recipe as the rest of the model but with a black sclera) these are soulless daemons bringing empty promises! It's part of the reason I'm using NMM on the daemons themselves but true metallics on the bases, with the idea being that the daemons are coming into this rusting Chamonite wasteland with shining gifts of impossible metal and wealth, so I do want the eyes to be quite sinister.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My Let's Play Channel: https://youtube.com/channel/UC2go70QLfwGq-hW4nvUqmog
Once painted, do you just superglue the sub assemblies together? How well did that work with what looks like some very small contact points on the cape etc?
I have this weird thing about needing to use plastic glue for everything
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Just superglue, yes. The cape will attach quite securely at the shoulders, it's only the wrist connections that are tricky to glue. For the hip danglies and loincloth I glued them on after I had done the Balor Brown basecoat but before the highlights, but that was only so I could get the NMM looking okay across the whole model, you could paint them entirely separately if you prefer.
Oh, and I forgot to say that I also left the vampire collar off until the end too to leave access to the back of the head/shoulders free.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I spent a lot of time on it cos it's really the centerpiece of the army (and a gorgeous sculpt aside). Though given Slaanesh's currently, er, I'll politely say 'skewed' summoning power in Age of Sigmar at present I'm probably going to need to paint at least a couple more at some point...