Ok guys, I need a sanity check. I've been waiting almost a week for the weather to break enough to Dullcote spray some models I've been working on for a very long time. It looks like over the next several days it'll be a few degrees over 70*F and a few percent over 60% humidity...which are the stated maximums on the Dullcote can. I'm getting antsy, I want to finish these figs.
Do I chance it? Maybe spray a separate test model first? But then how long so I wait to know it's going on clear?
I really don't want to fuck this up.
I'd wait. Every time it's even moderately humid when I spray a dull coat, it gets foggy
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Purple
My test model came out clean, so the Real Deal got their dullcote. Less than twenty minutes later, these Stompybots are flat and sexy!
I like the vallejo varnishes. I vanished those models for my frostgrave army with vallejo flat and I've vanished Space Wolves models with vallejo gloss so I could pin wash and then vallejo flat to dull them down. They came out really well.
I think I'm gonna varnish all my knights, armor and all in vallejo satin varnish.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My method is to airbrush Vallejo Gloss Varnish in two coats over two days, then once the second coat is cured to hit it with Dullcote. I might try just using their Matt varnish next time, since I have it, and see if it makes a difference on some models I'm less in love with. Otherwise this has worked so well for me, and I can't imagine doing something different at this point. So long as the weather cooperates!
My only advice would be to drop a few drops of airbrush thinner or thinner medium into the bottle and make sure it's shaken vigorously and thoroughly. Vallejo's varnish doesn't spray as readily as say, airbrush-specific paint, and so I find it needs a tiny bit of cutting to flow well.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Does dullcote need to go overtop another varnish or can you use it on it's own?
And to answer your question more directly: I think you could just use Dullcote, but you might want a couple of coats to make sure your figs are protected. This is why I do the two Vallejo varnish passes first and one pass of Dullcoat; I know for sure the figures have a solid varnish coat, and then the Dullcoat knocks the gloss off of them.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
While I wait to be able to finish my knights I was thinking of painting up my AdMech KT/Rusty 17 battalion. I am gonna paint them up in Stygies 8 colors but green instead of red.
Is there any where that has a list to help with replacing one color with another color of a similar brightness? Kind of weird thing to look for.
Basically if I would have used mephiston red for the first color on the armor what color in green is comparable? I'm really bad at this sort of thing. I think it is why I suck at doing glow effects with non standard colors.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
So is there any general advice for how to paint different varying skin tones? I'm going to be doing my Untamed Beasts soon and I plan to have like 3 or 4 tones I'll use somewhat randomly.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
So is there any general advice for how to paint different varying skin tones? I'm going to be doing my Untamed Beasts soon and I plan to have like 3 or 4 tones I'll use somewhat randomly.
What kind of flesh are you looking to do? As the guides are vast and varied
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
Purple
Uh, regular human skin tones, I guess?
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
This is about as complicated a question as you want it to be. The simplest answer is to follow the guidelines in the Citadel paint app and Warhammer TV videos. That’s worked well for me so far.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Would it be better to prime my AdMech models for the Stygies colors with the chaos black spray primer or to prime black with vallejo surface primer in an airbrush?
Kind of feeling the rattle can since I got so frustrated last time I primed with my airbrush.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
My first time priming with an airbrush was a bit thick too. Eventually I figured out how much thinner to mix, and how to judge how much paint I was applying. Like any other skill it takes practice. That being said since you already bought the can you may as well finish using it. I like the buypainted guy’s philosophy of getting cheap eBay minis to practice new skills on. You may want to do that or use some other less favorite minis next time you try airbrush priming.
飛べねぇ豚はただの豚だ。
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
My first time priming with an airbrush was a bit thick too. Eventually I figured out how much thinner to mix, and how to judge how much paint I was applying. Like any other skill it takes practice. That being said since you already bought the can you may as well finish using it. I like the buypainted guy’s philosophy of getting cheap eBay minis to practice new skills on. You may want to do that or use some other less favorite minis next time you try airbrush priming.
It wasn't so much the paint going on think buy more that my brush clogged 4 or 5 times. The finish was nice but the clogging frustrated me a lot. My previous airbrush didn't have that issue.
But yea, I might as well finish off the chaos black rattle can, I've had it sitting around for quite a while now.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Haven't painted in ages, so I figured I'd pick up a brush this week. Knocked out an exalted flamer real quick today. Felt good to get something painted.
I need to figure out how to base my daemons now....
To set it apart? As I am debating now because of the new SM codex of making them now Sons of Horus genestock instead of Night Lords because I got stuck on a icon and highlight
The helm could be a trophy as it kind of looks like a mark 4 helm. Still I am kind of stuck on a icon for them as I just don't know
Part of me just wants to strip him and start all over but it's just a helm so I can still pretend it never happened and move on but looking at the Dark Imperium one I feel he fits more of the look I want
While digging for something else I found my Eldar ranger from Inquisitor
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Worked on a small painting project tonight that I had been wanting to try. I think for a first attempt it came out pretty solid.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What do people use to tack sub assemblies to cork? I've been working on a more complex model and have it subassembled and want to paint the pieces before gluing it together.
If, if Reagan played disco He'd shoot it to shit You can't disco in Jackboots
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ArcticLancerBest served chilled.Registered Userregular
Purple
Between World of Warships and the occasional odd YouTube recommendation, I've been faced with an overwhelming desire recently to get better at scale model stuff. I just really, really want to.
So yesterday at my monthly Gundam meetup I ordered an 1/700 scale USN Cleveland kit. I then spent a bunch of time looking at brass etch details parts, and spent $50 ordering the applicable bits for that model.
Guys, I swear, if you've never seen what it looks like to work with 1/700 scale brass etch parts, you have no idea how fucked I am. XD I can't wait.
Between World of Warships and the occasional odd YouTube recommendation, I've been faced with an overwhelming desire recently to get better at scale model stuff. I just really, really want to.
So yesterday at my monthly Gundam meetup I ordered an 1/700 scale USN Cleveland kit. I then spent a bunch of time looking at brass etch details parts, and spent $50 ordering the applicable bits for that model.
Guys, I swear, if you've never seen what it looks like to work with 1/700 scale brass etch parts, you have no idea how fucked I am. XD I can't wait.
As someone that has lusted after brass-etched parts in their application in 1:285 scale, I've got some idea.
Good luck and godspeed, fellow scale modeler! Don't forget your tweezers and zap-a-gap!
Well I have a backlog of models I have never done I have this
I got it an epoch ago and have not put it together partly because I did not have the space to do so
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Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
edited August 2019
Purple
Well, the blue of all my other Iron Golems didn't turn out quite like my first one, which is a bit of a shame, but overall I'm happy with the final product of the completed paint job. Here are some crappy pictures and links to the full size (and still kind of crappy) pictures, and I'll try and get some better pictures at some point. Now I'm moving on to the Untamed Beasts
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Organized my paints finally.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The top of the sword looks great to me. Are you planning on doing anything more to the 3d molding lower down? If I'd have anything constructive to suggest, it would be that. The swirly bit kind of looks like it's pretending to not be there. I think the whole sword is beautiful, though.
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ExtreaminatusGo forth and amplify,the Noise Marines are here!Registered Userregular
What do people use to tack sub assemblies to cork? I've been working on a more complex model and have it subassembled and want to paint the pieces before gluing it together.
Models just don’t stick to cork very well. When I use it it’s because I’m pinning the feat of a model to a base I’m painting separately, and in that case I give myself a bout 3/4” or so of pin, and I make sure there are two pins at least. Just one and it rotates while I paint it.
Posts
Test model
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
I'd wait. Every time it's even moderately humid when I spray a dull coat, it gets foggy
Goddamn Dullcote is amazing.
Why would you want to varnish your airbrush?
Used the mecha satin one too and I can confirm. Satin.
I like the vallejo varnishes. I vanished those models for my frostgrave army with vallejo flat and I've vanished Space Wolves models with vallejo gloss so I could pin wash and then vallejo flat to dull them down. They came out really well.
I think I'm gonna varnish all my knights, armor and all in vallejo satin varnish.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
My method is to airbrush Vallejo Gloss Varnish in two coats over two days, then once the second coat is cured to hit it with Dullcote. I might try just using their Matt varnish next time, since I have it, and see if it makes a difference on some models I'm less in love with. Otherwise this has worked so well for me, and I can't imagine doing something different at this point. So long as the weather cooperates!
My only advice would be to drop a few drops of airbrush thinner or thinner medium into the bottle and make sure it's shaken vigorously and thoroughly. Vallejo's varnish doesn't spray as readily as say, airbrush-specific paint, and so I find it needs a tiny bit of cutting to flow well.
And to answer your question more directly: I think you could just use Dullcote, but you might want a couple of coats to make sure your figs are protected. This is why I do the two Vallejo varnish passes first and one pass of Dullcoat; I know for sure the figures have a solid varnish coat, and then the Dullcoat knocks the gloss off of them.
Is there any where that has a list to help with replacing one color with another color of a similar brightness? Kind of weird thing to look for.
Basically if I would have used mephiston red for the first color on the armor what color in green is comparable? I'm really bad at this sort of thing. I think it is why I suck at doing glow effects with non standard colors.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What kind of flesh are you looking to do? As the guides are vast and varied
A non-GW video that uses a variety of paints and techniques including airbrushing:
Kind of feeling the rattle can since I got so frustrated last time I primed with my airbrush.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
It wasn't so much the paint going on think buy more that my brush clogged 4 or 5 times. The finish was nice but the clogging frustrated me a lot. My previous airbrush didn't have that issue.
But yea, I might as well finish off the chaos black rattle can, I've had it sitting around for quite a while now.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I need to figure out how to base my daemons now....
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I could do the ultramarine strips or do it blue like the rest of the squad or a different red than the pads?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
To set it apart? As I am debating now because of the new SM codex of making them now Sons of Horus genestock instead of Night Lords because I got stuck on a icon and highlight
The helm could be a trophy as it kind of looks like a mark 4 helm. Still I am kind of stuck on a icon for them as I just don't know
Part of me just wants to strip him and start all over but it's just a helm so I can still pretend it never happened and move on but looking at the Dark Imperium one I feel he fits more of the look I want
While digging for something else I found my Eldar ranger from Inquisitor
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
So yesterday at my monthly Gundam meetup I ordered an 1/700 scale USN Cleveland kit. I then spent a bunch of time looking at brass etch details parts, and spent $50 ordering the applicable bits for that model.
Guys, I swear, if you've never seen what it looks like to work with 1/700 scale brass etch parts, you have no idea how fucked I am. XD
I can't wait.
Perhaps I can interest you in my meager selection of pins?
As someone that has lusted after brass-etched parts in their application in 1:285 scale, I've got some idea.
Good luck and godspeed, fellow scale modeler! Don't forget your tweezers and zap-a-gap!
I got it an epoch ago and have not put it together partly because I did not have the space to do so
https://i.imgur.com/mXinAFb.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o2AdYkY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/2GnsUlZ.jpg
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I feel like the top part of the sword just doesn't look right.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Models just don’t stick to cork very well. When I use it it’s because I’m pinning the feat of a model to a base I’m painting separately, and in that case I give myself a bout 3/4” or so of pin, and I make sure there are two pins at least. Just one and it rotates while I paint it.
Here’s the 1000 word equivalent:
Please teach me the secrets of Grey!