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We're three times as fast in the 3rd [Gunpla] & Plastic models thread

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Posts

  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited October 2018
    Hah, I didn't notice it before Athenor's latest post, but I like how that zoid has a gun on the... beak? nose? ...like it has a cigar sticking out of one side of its mouth.

    H3Knuckles on
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  • InquisitorInquisitor Registered User regular
    Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar.

    Other times, it is a machinegun.

    H3Knuckles
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    H3Knuckles wrote: »
    Hah, I didn't notice it before Athenor's latest post, but I like how that zoid has a gun on the... beak? nose? ...like it has a cigar sticking out of one side of its mouth.

    I don't know if it is a small cannon or not. The early zoids all had a similar, swappable cockpit design - you can see the same design on the snake Zoid too. Anyways, they all have that little jutting out part. In fact, you can just make it out on the original model.

    That little sucker is the piece I'll most likely need to glue in. It wants to fall out all the time if I apply even the lightest pressure to it.

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
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  • KelorKelor Registered User regular
    H3Knuckles wrote: »
    Hah, I didn't notice it before Athenor's latest post, but I like how that zoid has a gun on the... beak? nose? ...like it has a cigar sticking out of one side of its mouth.

    IIRC from the GBA game by default it was an energy weapon but you could swap it out for other things.

  • TheSmackerTheSmacker Registered User regular
    Was out to lunch with my wife yesterday when I noticed my local hobby shop was having a 20% off sale. "I wonder if they have any gunpla?"
    N2515nZ.jpg?1

    Oh good, the two kits I had wanted to do next. Alright, well that's a pretty good haul. Oh look there's an open box here that's marked down even more, let's see what it is....
    Vda3bs5.jpg?1

    Oh no please send help

    3DS: 1006-0138-4662
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  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    Hooooollllyyyy...

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  • TonkkaTonkka Some one in the club tonight Has stolen my ideas.Registered User regular
    Cello wrote: »
    jgeis wrote: »
    Who makes the best spray paints for gunpla? I got a kit for my birthday (an Endless Waltz Altron) and wanted to try laying down the base colors with spray paints.

    I don't know about Gunpla specifically, but Tamiya spray paints and acrylics are amaaaaaazing for plastics in general

    Oh god dammit.

    Now I have the Tamiya US site open and oh nooooooooo I want all of this.

    But yest their acrylics are fantastic, and I can only assume their spraycans are incredible as well.

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  • LanzLanz Registered User regular
    TheSmacker wrote: »
    Was out to lunch with my wife yesterday when I noticed my local hobby shop was having a 20% off sale. "I wonder if they have any gunpla?"
    N2515nZ.jpg?1

    Oh good, the two kits I had wanted to do next. Alright, well that's a pretty good haul. Oh look there's an open box here that's marked down even more, let's see what it is....
    Vda3bs5.jpg?1

    Oh no please send help

    My advice: Get a UV light for your Banshee

    waNkm4k.jpg?1
    Dark Raven XHeffling
  • LanzLanz Registered User regular
    Also like, use it sparingly cause like... yeah you're not leaving it out in the sun but it's still UV light so probably not best for the health of the plastic to constantly light it

    waNkm4k.jpg?1
    Mysst
  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular


    Hmm
    Like the videos I posted earlier I am curious about it
    The link

  • 143999143999 Tellin' ya not askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered User regular
    Lanz wrote: »
    Also like, use it sparingly cause like... yeah you're not leaving it out in the sun but it's still UV light so probably not best for the health of the plastic to constantly light it

    Or light it all the time and mimic the inescapable grip of entropy. You know, eventually.

    8aVThp6.png
  • 143999143999 Tellin' ya not askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered User regular
    Speaking of lighting, I’d very much like to find a way to install tiny LEDs or something similar that doesn’t involve tiny batteries with short lives.

    8aVThp6.png
  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    143999 wrote: »
    Speaking of lighting, I’d very much like to find a way to install tiny LEDs or something similar that doesn’t involve tiny batteries with short lives.

    I know as long ago I thought I could light up my Necron Monolith just to light up behind the portal have it seep out the vents on the side and light up the crystal on top
    Just I ran into how can I change the battery or make it turn on and off so I ran into a lot of problems and theory.
    It was the same problem I ran into with a stompa as I wanted it to play a song so I looked at train sound effects and found out how they did it {also finding out how to rerecord the sounds in greeting cards and how you get around the block they put into it}
    But how to change the battery is still the problem

  • BahamutZEROBahamutZERO Registered User regular
    yeah you need some sort of opening or disguised panel you can take off to change the battery in those setups
    I don't know how they do it in gunpla designed with light-up features in mind, maybe they design in a place to access the battery?

    BahamutZERO.gif
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    Given that kickstarter for wireless lego lights above a baseplate, I am surprised no one has done similar for gundam.

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
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  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    yeah you need some sort of opening or disguised panel you can take off to change the battery in those setups
    I don't know how they do it in gunpla designed with light-up features in mind, maybe they design in a place to access the battery?

    That was the idea but the monolith really doesn't lend itself to having a slot for the battery

  • LanzLanz Registered User regular
    yeah you need some sort of opening or disguised panel you can take off to change the battery in those setups
    I don't know how they do it in gunpla designed with light-up features in mind, maybe they design in a place to access the battery?

    depends on the type

    Things like the MG RX-78-2 (I think the 2.0, 3.0 and Origin types) have the torso and head designed so you can slide the head off and pop a small self-contained LED unit in there; just pop off the backpack, back armor and slide the head/neck assembly off it's slot and slide in the LED.

    Things like perfect grades like the Unicorn or the Exia use integrated LEDs you have to wire in yourself, and then use a base to provide power once connected, I think. The 00 has self-contained LED units in its GN Drives though

    waNkm4k.jpg?1
  • chrishallett83chrishallett83 Hi! Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »


    Hmm
    Like the videos I posted earlier I am curious about it
    The link

    Bruh, 25 months at $65/month? So you've gotta wait over two years just to get all the parts, and you pay $1625 all up?

    Bandai do a nice 1:48 model (over 10 inches long) for a hundo, and Revell do a 1:29 model (over 17 inches long!) that is aimed at a younger crowd but still looks nicely painted and detailed for ~50 UK pounds.

    BahamutZEROH3Knuckles
  • see317see317 Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »


    Hmm
    Like the videos I posted earlier I am curious about it
    The link

    Bruh, 25 months at $65/month? So you've gotta wait over two years just to get all the parts, and you pay $1625 all up?

    Bandai do a nice 1:48 model (over 10 inches long) for a hundo, and Revell do a 1:29 model (over 17 inches long!) that is aimed at a younger crowd but still looks nicely painted and detailed for ~50 UK pounds.

    Yeah, it's expensive, and time consuming, but the amount of detail in these kits is insane.
    If you're super into modeling, and super into Star Wars, and desperately need a hobby for the next two years, $65 a month isn't too much.

    It's not for me, I don't have the painting chops or the patience to do a kit like this justice. But for someone who does? Sure.

    Ringo wrote: »
    Well except what see317 said. That guy's always wrong.
  • Bluedude152Bluedude152 Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Inquisitor wrote: »
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    I’m getting the urge to branch out from purely mecha kits into other types of modeling. The World War Toon tanks and some very pretty automata kits are calling my name...

    If I ever branched out from mecha I would probably go for for some Maschinen Krieger

    Dang pricey though.

    A lot of them are garage kits when i get home i will give a link/instructions to build one of them it's ping pong balls a field kitchen and a bell helicopter model

    @Brainleech dont leave me hanging!!

    p0a2ody6sqnt.jpg
  • miscellaneousinsanitymiscellaneousinsanity grass grows, birds fly, sun shines, and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered User regular
    yeah, the deagostini millennium falcon was posted last thread i think, the detail on that thing (and the results the person modeling it were able to achieve) is absolutely bonkers

  • LogicReasonLogicReason Registered User regular
    Does Lego count in this thread? What about if there's a gunpla in the picture? I just wanted to show the scale of this thing.. it's approx 1/110 scale.. so close to a MG.
    In work:
    2shdqlbhacb9.jpg
    Finished!
    zwy34764mgs5.jpg

    Dark Raven XHefflingMegaMekNobodymiscellaneousinsanityCorporal CarlMidnitechrishallett83StiltsCurly_BraceIronKnuckle's GhostTonkkaIloveslimesH3Knucklesironsizide
  • Corporal CarlCorporal Carl Registered User regular
    Wow, amazing model! :eek:

    But like an UCS Star Destroyer, it’s one of those where-am-I-going-to-display-that models :lol:

    Concerning LED lighting without wiring, I noticed my “local online shop” has that X-Base lighting set, which allows LEDs to emit light via induction, without wire, but it is expensive!

    The display base (with 10 white leds) is 180€, and a box of 10 LEDs (either 10 blue, red, green or yellow) are available is 35€!
    But no wiring required :snap:

    It sure looks nice for for that price I could buy a PG and a few other kits...

    Of course, if you’re swimming in money, AND you don’t want to add anything to the building backlog, well :lol:

    PSN (PS4-Europe): Carolus-Billius
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    I suspect that the $1650 model costs more than what LucasFilm and ILM spent on the original X-wing model. :D


    Anyways, we do have a Lego thread over in D&D if you wanna gush there too. :) The Saturn V is an amazing kit. And yes, finding some place to display it's a bit of a bear.

    (pics were not focused on the Saturn V directly - the last one is much older than the other two)

    szTz0wAh.jpg

    STTICEOh.jpg

    eZkFcmbh.jpg


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  • IronKnuckle's GhostIronKnuckle's Ghost Registered User regular
    Psst @LogicReason throw your trash away.

  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    You really don't want to see my place when it comes to trash, then. :( I know the feeling. Building, building, and so on and then being like "oh crap, I need to clean up"...

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  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    You really don't want to see my place when it comes to trash, then. :( I know the feeling. Building, building, and so on and then being like "oh crap, I need to clean up"...

    I keep a trash can next to my work space for just this reason.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • 143999143999 Tellin' ya not askin' ya, not pleadin' with yaRegistered User regular
    edited October 2018
    I'm not so much interested in wireless lighting per say as I am in a way to drop a light or two in an MG without much trouble and plug it into a power source with a switch that doesn't involve me having to screw with batteries if I leave it on for more than an hour or so.

    My first build was the MG RX-78-2 The Origin version, and it has a cavity for the Bandai Gundam LED unit, which is functional but is also the origin (sigh) of my battery complaints. Conceptually, I could see an easy way to fit a light with a small wire that leads to a flush, external-facing AC adapter-style plug on the back of the MG in that cavity, and then...something...involving an AC adapter, a power switch, and whatever you need to step down the incoming power to manageable levels. Maybe build it into a central thing with multiple outputs that can run out to multiple endpoints, and some fun effects options for pulsing or blinking or whatever.

    I imagine you could customize something light that, but the fact that I described most of the inner workings as "...something..." leads me to believe that I shouldn't fool around with it.

    143999 on
    8aVThp6.png
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    That powerful of an LED would make the plastic glow. Which, mind you, would be a cool effect! :)

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
    "Brevity is the soul of getting your shit read." - Tube
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  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    That powerful of an LED would make the plastic glow. Which, mind you, would be a cool effect! :)

    Yeah, but I was just showing it off as an example of a USB powered LED that could be installed into a Gunpla.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    Holy cow.

    So at Gunpla club this month, a lady came down from the Chicagoland area... and built a 1/100 scale Zaku that.. well...

    66emc8Kh.jpg

    TNxwrbTh.jpg


    She runs an instagram account and promotes female gunpla and model building and such. She also showed me a REALLY amazing portable lightbox setup that I have to get now.

    She arrived after me... and built that entire model in the same time it took me to build the head of my Dibison.

    1JdV2WTh.jpg


    LqJxslth.jpg

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  • StiltsStilts Registered User regular
    That's a gorgeous Zaku. I love the shine on it.

    IKknkhU.gif
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    It CAME like that. With the painting of the shoulderpads and shield and everything. She didn't say how expensive it was, but it's a set from 2007 and apparently incredibly rare.

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  • MidniteMidnite Down by the bonfireRegistered User regular
    https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Warrior-Concert-Destiny/dp/B0007WG3RK

    I'm guessing the metallic version is a p-bandai/lucky draw kind of deal.

  • BrainleechBrainleech Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Inquisitor wrote: »
    GR_Zombie wrote: »
    I’m getting the urge to branch out from purely mecha kits into other types of modeling. The World War Toon tanks and some very pretty automata kits are calling my name...

    If I ever branched out from mecha I would probably go for for some Maschinen Krieger

    Dang pricey though.

    A lot of them are garage kits when i get home i will give a link/instructions to build one of them it's ping pong balls a field kitchen and a bell helicopter model

    @Brainleech dont leave me hanging!!

    fw0sotavcmoq.png
    Brainleech wrote: »


    Hmm
    Like the videos I posted earlier I am curious about it
    The link

    Bruh, 25 months at $65/month? So you've gotta wait over two years just to get all the parts, and you pay $1625 all up?

    Bandai do a nice 1:48 model (over 10 inches long) for a hundo, and Revell do a 1:29 model (over 17 inches long!) that is aimed at a younger crowd but still looks nicely painted and detailed for ~50 UK pounds.

    I showed it to my brother who is a big X wing fan as we talked about it he was logging on to see it and I mentioned it's only Red 5 to which he said Nope and passed on
    Seriously I know Luke is a show runner but put out a kit of the other X wings rather than spend the time moding Luke's to be Bigg's or Wedge's

    H3Knuckles
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist Registered User regular
    edited October 2018
    Midnite wrote: »
    https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Warrior-Concert-Destiny/dp/B0007WG3RK

    I'm guessing the metallic version is a p-bandai/lucky draw kind of deal.



    That one is also hg 1/144. The metallic one was 1/100 and technically not rated.

    Edit: Found a reddit post about it. It's from the C3 Chara Hobby Expo 2007, originally sold for 4,500 Yen. Apparently super rare but also not in high demand, but as this was a completely new kit I'm sure it went for more to find.

    Athenor on
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  • DaypigeonDaypigeon Registered User regular
    that zaku exudes a powerful energy

    Corporal CarlDark Raven XHefflingStiltsTonkka
  • Dark Raven XDark Raven X Laugh hard, run fast, be kindRegistered User regular
    Lil' Barbatos update, here's the seamlines removal! The shoulders are the only part of the kit I'm removing the seamlines on. The frame has a few that might look good, but I'm concerned about how much detail needs to be painted while it's unassembled, and fusing stuff together might make it too hard. The shoulders are that right level of convenient and noticeable to make it worth doing, IMO!

    PvVKBpsl.jpg

    So here they are yesterday, I fused the parts together using model cement, that melts the plastic a little to get a solid connection. Then comes Mr Dissolved Putty! This stuff is great, like every other Mr Colour product I've used. It goes on goopy, dries pretty quick and then is hard as plastic 24 hours later.

    KPfehUIl.jpg

    The one on the left has been sanded down already, the one on the right is how the putty looks after drying. Used a nail file to grind it down a little, and then Tamiya Finishing Abrasives 1000 and 2000 to get it smooth with the plastic. There is not much room to grind down on these pieces, though! The ledges at the bottom are less than a mm each.

    Might need another pass to get the tiny little seams on the bottom ledge, but I think I'll prime these first, see if Mr Surfacer 1200 will take care of it.

    Oh brilliant
    BahamutZEROTonkka
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    The putty is basically just plastic cement mixed with plastic, so when you're done you have a plastic bond. I have the same stuff except Tamiya branded.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
    Dark Raven XCurly_Brace
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