We're three times as fast in the 3rd [Gunpla] & Plastic models thread

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  • TNTrooperTNTrooper Registered User regular
    edited January 23
    What did you expect when the first 3 characters that talk were named Slender, Denim, and Gene?

    TNTrooper on
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  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited January 23
    H3Knuckles wrote: »
    What is it with Tomino and putting future societies in turn of the century (19th/20th) clothing?
    TNTrooper wrote: »
    What did you expect when the first 3 characters that talk were named Slender, Denim, and Gene?

    Not 1970's stuff. In that short, people are dressed in Victorian-Edwardian (or Belle Époque for our continental European readers) clothing, as was Turn A's Earth. I'm blanking on what it is, but I could swear he's done it in another (non-Gundam) series too.

    H3Knuckles on
    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
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  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    H3Knuckles wrote: »
    What is it with Tomino and putting future societies in turn of the century (19th/20th) clothing?

    All fashion becomes cool again as it becomes retro.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
    turtleantMidnite
  • Grey GhostGrey Ghost Registered User regular
    Just waiting on my G40
    Any old day now

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    PSN: GrahamCR | Switch Friend Code: SW-7440-9863-2027
    miscellaneousinsanityRenzoMidnite
  • KandenKanden Registered User regular
    Where do y'all buy your kits from? We don't really have a hobby store nearby so just wondering if there's something better than amazon

  • TNTrooperTNTrooper Registered User regular
    USAGundamstore or GundamPlanet are your best not Amazon options.

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    Athenor
  • turtleantturtleant Gunpla Dad is the best.Registered User regular
    I've had great luck with Gundam Planet. But also I'm only a state away (they're out of New Jersey, I'm in Pennsylvania).

    I get everything in like, 3 days tops, it's great.

    For old stuff Amazon is often the best option though, unfortunately. Just make sure to check out the other sellers page.

    OH, also I don't know if they still do it, but someone on Amazon sells gundam kits with a "bonus" trading card for a huge price hike. Avoid those.

    X22wmuF.jpg
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    I use Amazon for almost all of my kits.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • KandenKanden Registered User regular
    edited January 26
    Uh oh, I found a hobby store 2 towns over.
    t6yqn7xrv5ta.jpg

    Having never seen an episode of Gundam I tried to choose ones that seemed ugly and depressed. How close was I?

    Kanden on
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  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited January 26
    I'd say Doms are pretty massively popular as one of the 'core trio' of bad guy mass production designs from the original series, Z'gok's a pretty big staple too (it's the standard bad guy amphibious unit from the original series, and the red one is the custom paint job of the main antagonist). Acguy is perennially popular because of its ugly-cuteness. Asshimar doesn't get a ton of attention because it came from the second tv series and didn't stick around for long on the show, but people seem to like it okay.

    H3Knuckles on
    If you're curious about my icon; it's an update of the early Lego Castle theme's "Black Falcons" faction.
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  • miscellaneousinsanitymiscellaneousinsanity grass grows, birds fly, sun shines, and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered User regular
    amphibious zeon suits are all adorable and pure

    gustav karl is depressed because it's the biggest jobber in the federation

    H3KnucklesNaphtaliCorporal Carl
  • turtleantturtleant Gunpla Dad is the best.Registered User regular
    Listen depending on the show everybody ugly and depressed

    X22wmuF.jpg
    Kanden
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
    "Brevity is the soul of getting your shit read." - Tube
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  • TNTrooperTNTrooper Registered User regular
    Would sticking a bit of poster putty in there help?

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  • initiatefailureinitiatefailure Registered User regular
    turtleant wrote: »
    Listen depending on the show everybody ugly and depressed

    As opposed to beautiful and depressed

    I Do Design | I PSN- Subtle_Ties | 3DS: 3840-5210-2008 (Subtle)
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.

    If these are Bandai polycaps I almost certainly have extras at this point. If you send me a picture I will dig through them.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    Heffling wrote: »
    Athenor wrote: »
    I've probably asked this before - has anyone had any luck in repairing polycaps? Google's not really helping, and there are a couple split polycaps in my models that I really want to get more friction in there.

    If these are Bandai polycaps I almost certainly have extras at this point. If you send me a picture I will dig through them.

    They aren't, naturally. :)

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
    "Brevity is the soul of getting your shit read." - Tube
    Rarely-updated Collecting blog
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  • Corporal CarlCorporal Carl Registered User regular
    Ooh, you've got an Acguy! I haven't managed to obtain one here in Belgium because from the US or Japan there are big shipping costs and import taxes :-/

    The Zock is fantastic, I only have Z'Goks in HG (1/144) and the Asshimar actually has quite a neat transform method, and has a great colour scheme when in robot-mode.

    The LBXDEQ00 is a really cute beginner kit, that doesn't even need nippers, and all the items on the runners are marked as "Arm 3" or "Leg 4" or "Torso 2"; and you can split the runners in 4 and put all parts of the same body part together. It's really intuitive.

    You might need some clear nail polish to put on some joints as they can be a bit weak (for example when the arms always flop down).

    I think the build order of complexness starts with the very easy LBDEX00, then the Acguy, Hi-Mock, Zock, MG Z'Gok, and the rest.

    Just remember, the Zock is a really big 1/144 boy.

    And you seem to have enough kits to already have a nice backlog :lol:

    Have fun!

    PSN (PS4-Europe): Carolus-Billius
    Kanden
  • KandenKanden Registered User regular
    I've got a question about panel liners, Ive just been using a Gundam marker, but I wanted to try to Tamiya panel liners, the ones that come in like the glass bottle that you paint on. I ordered some of those and some Tamiya x-20 thinner for cleanup. I think I understand the applying and cleaning up part, but I'm kinda confused on the coating part? I guess the panel liners, and especially the thinner will just eat through the unpainted plastic so it needs a glossy coat, then the liners then a matte coat? Is that true? If it is what do y'all recommend for coating them with? I'm not really interested in full on painting them yet, but just wanna make sure not to chew up the plastic too badly.

  • TNTrooperTNTrooper Registered User regular
    Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)

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  • miscellaneousinsanitymiscellaneousinsanity grass grows, birds fly, sun shines, and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered User regular
    the gloss coat is specifically because it helps the liner flow better, you can topcoat with either matte or gloss afterward depending on your preference

  • initiatefailureinitiatefailure Registered User regular
    Oh yeah I definitely didn't notice the large warning label at first.

    As far as I can tell it's not currently and actively melting plastic but when I went to clean off a panel after applying it the force of rubbing away excess broke a chunk off a panel that was not thin or something I worried about being delicate prior to

    I Do Design | I PSN- Subtle_Ties | 3DS: 3840-5210-2008 (Subtle)
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    edited January 28
    Chubbybots (of Lego mecha) is working on a Gojulas-inspired build, so that encouraged me to finally take my Gojulas imgur gallery public. You know, if you don't want to scroll through like 10 pages of this thread. :)

    https://imgur.com/gallery/VnEQLcE

    Edit: Fixed the name.

    Athenor on
    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
    "Brevity is the soul of getting your shit read." - Tube
    Rarely-updated Collecting blog
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    H3Knuckles
  • DelduwathDelduwath Registered User regular
    419 photos?!? Gosh, I really appreciate the work you put in for our entertainment, Athenor! (I realize it was for you as much as for us.)

    (Also, the guy's name is Chubbybots.)

    Dark Raven Xsee317H3Knuckles
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Oh yeah I definitely didn't notice the large warning label at first.

    As far as I can tell it's not currently and actively melting plastic but when I went to clean off a panel after applying it the force of rubbing away excess broke a chunk off a panel that was not thin or something I worried about being delicate prior to

    Yep, it makes the plastic brittle.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • KandenKanden Registered User regular
    edited January 28
    Just wanna make sure I've got the order of operations right, so build - spray gloss - lining/decals - spray matte.

    Should I spray on the sprues or would it be better to do kinda like a halfsies build and separate the parts I want to line after that's done? When I'm doing the matte pass should I keep em separated or put em back together? If I don't need to take them apart pre-spray should I like tape up the exposed joints? How long should I wait between spray/lining/spray?

    Sorry for so many questions, waiting on them to get here so just trying to chew through how I should do it. Want all my ducks in a row.

    Kanden on
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Correct. Check your spray cans for recommended curing time.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • KandenKanden Registered User regular
    TNTrooper wrote: »
    Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)

    If the hobby store doesn't have those specific ones what should I look for in a replacement? Like acrylic lacquer or something?

  • DelduwathDelduwath Registered User regular
    Kanden wrote: »
    Should I spray on the sprues or would it be better to do kinda like a halfsies build and separate the parts I want to line after that's done?
    I don't think you want to spray on the sprues. All models I've worked with have at least some pieces where some sprue connections are on a visible surface. If you spray such a piece while it's on the sprue, that spot won't get covered; when you cut it off the sprue, that spot won't match the rest of the surface. Also, it might be harder to clean up the spot where you cut the sprue if there's lacquer around that spot. (I guess this is not a big deal if you do a final top-coat finish with the piece off the sprue)

    I think people who do the spray thing usually
    - find all the pieces they plan to spray
    - remove them from the sprues
    - optionally, do a test fit to see how things come together, but then take it apart after
    - attach them to convenient sticks with putty, tape-wrapped alligator clips or whatever, and stick them in foam, OR hang them from a string
    - spray them with whatever
    - after all your spraying is done, assemble the model

    I've never done anything like that, though.

  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Kanden wrote: »
    TNTrooper wrote: »
    Yeah Tamiya panel liners have warning labels not to put it on uncovered plastic. Their spray can stuff is fine and usually a buck or 2 cheaper then the Mr. Hobby stuff so just get a can of their gloss clear(TS-13) and flat clear(TS-80)

    If the hobby store doesn't have those specific ones what should I look for in a replacement? Like acrylic lacquer or something?

    I've used Krylon Krystal Clear from Wal-Mart with good success.

    To Delduwath's point, if you use the panel line pens, you can panel line on the sprue without issue. If you use the Tamiya Panel Liner (or similar thinned out enamel paints), you want the parts off of the sprue first. This is because the enamel panel liners will follow any panel lines or other features and will pool up where the sprue connects. And these can be a bit messy to work with, so you could easily end up with some unsightly marks.

    I would also caution you to note that even if you spray a model, be careful when using the Tamiya Panel Liner because it will wick into gaps between parts, and can make the connection points brittle. The Skygrasper I painted and posted previously actually had the cannon ends on both of the side cannons split because of this, but thankfully they were easy to glue on. Had it been a critical moving piece, I could have been in trouble.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    Huh. I hadn't thought about the wicking elements with spraying/painting before.

    Is the recommendation, then, to maybe use plastic cement to seal up everything before priming?

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
    "Brevity is the soul of getting your shit read." - Tube
    Rarely-updated Collecting blog
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  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Yes, or just don't let the fluid get into those joints.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • RenzoRenzo Registered User regular
    Going to recommend a wash instead of panel liner again because there is no danger of damaging the plastic and you don't have to spray the model first. It's very lazy modeler-friendly.

    This was weathered and panel lined at the same time. Almost entirely with a wash.



    But if you use stickers, it might be a good idea to apply stickers on bare plastic, then gloss coat, then panel line/wash. That way the wash doesn't collect around the edges of the stickers.

    BahamutZEROGroveTonkkaMegaMekH3KnucklesDark Raven XHexDex
  • Descendant XDescendant X Hank Facepunch Registered User regular
    Renzo wrote: »
    Going to recommend a wash instead of panel liner again because there is no danger of damaging the plastic and you don't have to spray the model first. It's very lazy modeler-friendly.

    This was weathered and panel lined at the same time. Almost entirely with a wash.



    But if you use stickers, it might be a good idea to apply stickers on bare plastic, then gloss coat, then panel line/wash. That way the wash doesn't collect around the edges of the stickers.

    When you say wash, do you mean the Tamiya liquid liner or something more along the lines of GW’s inks?

    Something used to be here. It's gone now.
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    A wash is a thinned out ink, oil, or acrylic paint. GW washes are an example of this. You can also make your own with acrylic paint using acrylic mixing medium or Future!(r) Floor Polish or certain ways with oils (I haven't tried these). The Gundam Pour Markers use a thinned out oil paint. Oil paints have one advantage that you can clean up any residue with propyl alcohol.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • RenzoRenzo Registered User regular
    Specifically I mean Vallejo Grey or Dark Grey Model Wash. It's a thinned out acrylic paint. Even days after it dries, you can use water and some cotton balls or qtips to move it around or sop most of it up. But it will tint the plastic at least a little.

    Descendant X
  • AthenorAthenor Battle Hardened Optimist The Skies of HiigaraRegistered User regular
    I won't lie, I've considered using Army Painter's instant wash / dipping stuff before. :) I dunno if that is acryllic or enamel, though.

    Official member of the Grilling Gentry
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  • Dark Raven XDark Raven X Laugh hard, run fast, be kindRegistered User regular
    A9YkYX6l.jpg

    Smashyboi complete.

    No decals yet, because I'm still entertaining the idea of painting him. Some panel lining though!

    This a good ass Gundam. He can indeed hold his weapons no problem. Everything feels nice and tight. Front right skirt is loose as heck tho, maybe I trimmed it wrong.

    Oh brilliant
    AthenorHefflingBetsuniDescendant XMegaMekMidniteTonkkaH3KnucklesHexDex
  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Athenor wrote: »
    I won't lie, I've considered using Army Painter's instant wash / dipping stuff before. :) I dunno if that is acryllic or enamel, though.

    It's a polyurethane acrylic.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
  • IronKnuckle's GhostIronKnuckle's Ghost Registered User regular
    Hang on, Patlabor kits exist?

    chrishallett83ironsizide
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