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[PC Build Thread] It's a weird time in Hardwaretown

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  • H3KnucklesH3Knuckles Jack of all interests... ...master of noneRegistered User regular
    edited November 2018
    what are these ways that still exist of doing a free win7 to win10 upgrade?

    https://www.zdnet.com/article/heres-how-you-can-still-get-a-free-windows-10-upgrade/

    https://www.howtogeek.com/272201/all-the-ways-you-can-still-get-windows-10-for-free/

    Are two of the results I found when I searched it earlier.

    H3Knuckles on
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  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    I've done a fair number of upgrades on friends, family and my ownacjime and the only criteria I've noticed for the free win 7 upgrade is that you have to have a legit Windows 7 key.

    I. E. If you have been upgrading from xp - VISTA - 7 I don't know if you can go to 10 for free.

    If you had a pc that came with Windows 7 oem our you bought it then it's always worked for the free upgrade.


    You just install windows 10 and activate with the win 7 key.

    MugsleyJimbo
  • Zul the ConquerorZul the Conqueror regular Registered User regular
    I'm getting ready to upgrade my system. Here's what I'm currently running. It's mostly from a 2012 build:
    • i7-3930k
    • 4x4 GB DDR3-800
    • Asus P9X79LE
    • EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 (recent upgrade, got it for $650 refurbished direct from EVGA)
    • OCZ Vertex4 SATA III 512 GB SSD
    • Corsair 650W Bronze PSU
    • A couple of old HDDs totaling about 1.5 TB

    Here's the build I'm considering: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tvbnCb

    I'd appreciate opinions on a couple of things. First, is that a good choice of RAM? I've looked into faster/lower latency options, but they seem either unavailable or extremely expensive. I'm ok with spending a decent chunk of change, but I'm generally aiming for the 80% solution, not the money-no-object solution.

    Second, I'm toying with the idea of buying the ASRock Taichi x470 Ultimate motherboard instead of the Aorus. I am lucky enough to have 2 Gbit fiber to my home, so in theory I could benefit from the 10 Gbit ethernet port on the Taichi. However, I currently have a 1 Gbit router so it'd be purely futureproofing against the day that I get a 10 Gbit router (or preferably a 2.5 or 5 Gbit consumer option one of these days...). I'm unlikely to overclock or otherwise take advantage of the Taichi. On balance I think I'd be better off buying the cheaper Aorus and adding in a >1 Gbit NIC some day if I upgrade my router. Are there any pitfalls to adding in a NIC that I'm not aware of that should make me learn toward the Taichi? (E.g. it's going to consume PCIe lanes or something...?)

  • HeatwaveHeatwave regular Come, now, and walk the path of explosions with me!Registered User regular
    Off the top of my head, but isn't the regular Taichi X470 the same as the Ultimate? Just minus like one feature? Or is this feature the 10 Gbit ethernet port ?

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  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    I'm getting ready to upgrade my system. Here's what I'm currently running. It's mostly from a 2012 build:
    • i7-3930k
    • 4x4 GB DDR3-800
    • Asus P9X79LE
    • EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 (recent upgrade, got it for $650 refurbished direct from EVGA)
    • OCZ Vertex4 SATA III 512 GB SSD
    • Corsair 650W Bronze PSU
    • A couple of old HDDs totaling about 1.5 TB

    Here's the build I'm considering: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tvbnCb

    I'd appreciate opinions on a couple of things. First, is that a good choice of RAM? I've looked into faster/lower latency options, but they seem either unavailable or extremely expensive. I'm ok with spending a decent chunk of change, but I'm generally aiming for the 80% solution, not the money-no-object solution.

    Second, I'm toying with the idea of buying the ASRock Taichi x470 Ultimate motherboard instead of the Aorus. I am lucky enough to have 2 Gbit fiber to my home, so in theory I could benefit from the 10 Gbit ethernet port on the Taichi. However, I currently have a 1 Gbit router so it'd be purely futureproofing against the day that I get a 10 Gbit router (or preferably a 2.5 or 5 Gbit consumer option one of these days...). I'm unlikely to overclock or otherwise take advantage of the Taichi. On balance I think I'd be better off buying the cheaper Aorus and adding in a >1 Gbit NIC some day if I upgrade my router. Are there any pitfalls to adding in a NIC that I'm not aware of that should make me learn toward the Taichi? (E.g. it's going to consume PCIe lanes or something...?)

    My immediate questions are

    1. Why are you buying a sound card?
    2. What do you consume that would warrant a multi gigabit connection in this upgrade cycle.


    If the answer is because "it's the best" then we're just here to justify what you've already decided :)

    In that case, go for it.

    If that's not the answer then I would say neither of those things is worth the money. These would be 110% upgrades, not 80%.

  • RoyceSraphimRoyceSraphim regular Registered User regular
    https://pcpartpicker.com/list/MWj7dX

    Thoughts on this build?

    Any advice for legal ways to get discounted copies of windows 10?

    Still keeping old pc with 7 installed.

  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    If you're still using 7, then you'll need to buy a new key.

  • Zul the ConquerorZul the Conqueror regular Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    Aridhol wrote: »
    I'm getting ready to upgrade my system. Here's what I'm currently running. It's mostly from a 2012 build:
    • i7-3930k
    • 4x4 GB DDR3-800
    • Asus P9X79LE
    • EVGA 1080Ti FTW3 (recent upgrade, got it for $650 refurbished direct from EVGA)
    • OCZ Vertex4 SATA III 512 GB SSD
    • Corsair 650W Bronze PSU
    • A couple of old HDDs totaling about 1.5 TB

    Here's the build I'm considering: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tvbnCb

    I'd appreciate opinions on a couple of things. First, is that a good choice of RAM? I've looked into faster/lower latency options, but they seem either unavailable or extremely expensive. I'm ok with spending a decent chunk of change, but I'm generally aiming for the 80% solution, not the money-no-object solution.

    Second, I'm toying with the idea of buying the ASRock Taichi x470 Ultimate motherboard instead of the Aorus. I am lucky enough to have 2 Gbit fiber to my home, so in theory I could benefit from the 10 Gbit ethernet port on the Taichi. However, I currently have a 1 Gbit router so it'd be purely futureproofing against the day that I get a 10 Gbit router (or preferably a 2.5 or 5 Gbit consumer option one of these days...). I'm unlikely to overclock or otherwise take advantage of the Taichi. On balance I think I'd be better off buying the cheaper Aorus and adding in a >1 Gbit NIC some day if I upgrade my router. Are there any pitfalls to adding in a NIC that I'm not aware of that should make me learn toward the Taichi? (E.g. it's going to consume PCIe lanes or something...?)

    My immediate questions are

    1. Why are you buying a sound card?
    2. What do you consume that would warrant a multi gigabit connection in this upgrade cycle.


    If the answer is because "it's the best" then we're just here to justify what you've already decided :)

    In that case, go for it.

    If that's not the answer then I would say neither of those things is worth the money. These would be 110% upgrades, not 80%.

    I think I'll forgo the Taichi. I *don't* do anything today that would really benefit from the 10 Gbit connection. Buying it would be somewhere between futureproofing and but-it's-the-best, which while I'm always tempted to go that route I'd rather not.

    The sound card I'm not completely sold on. I haven't had one since before motherboards started having audio. I use a decent set of Sennheiser headphones, and my reading had led me to believe a sound card would drive headphones better. I do enjoy good sound, and the sound card is pretty cheap, so that might be somewhere that I would go a little above and beyond on. Has anyone here compared modern sound cards and motherboard audio? Is there a noticeable difference?

    Zul the Conqueror on
  • LD50LD50 regular Registered User regular
    If you are using headphones and want the best audio quality, get a USB DAC.

    MugsleyCampyCormacAridhol
  • CampyCampy regular Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    If you are using headphones and want the best audio quality, get a USB DAC.

    Bonus points if you get a portable one which you can then use with your phone for delicious sounds everywhere!

    chrishallett83
  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    If you are using headphones and want the best audio quality, get a USB DAC.

    This. I've got a pair of HD6XX from Massdrop and I use a Fiio DAC to help drive them.

  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    @RoyceSraphim if you already have an account, use 10minutemail or a similar service make a new gmail to create a burner account. 500GB 860 EVO for $60 US.

    https://slickdeals.net/f/12283417-google-express-new-customers-500gb-samsung-860-evo-solid-state-drive-59-99-free-s-h

    Mugsley on
  • Ed GrubermanEd Gruberman regular Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    I'm still trying to figure out what is causing my PC to reboot. The issue is getting worse and it's rebooting about 5 minutes after rebooting.

    I have:
    • run MemTest86 on the RAM and it came up clean
    • run CHKDSK on both the SSD and HDD with no bad sectors reported
    • tried to run System Rescue CD but my PC reboots on its own just before I get to the command line (I think)
    • used a PSU tester to check the PSU and it appears to be working (although I don't know if it would show variation)
    • used an ampmeter to calculate the actual draw of the whole PC under load and it's well below the max on my PSU (seasonic 550W)
    • switched from an r9280X to a 1060 6GB GPU and the problem persists
    • checked temperatures and they are within tolerance (CPU cores max out around 50C under load)
    • removed all overclocking

    Someone suggested it was probably the motherboard but I don't know how to confirm that short of eliminating everything else. I'm not dying to buy a new motherboard for this PC if it doesn't fix the problem. Right now I have this ASRock Z97 Anniversary motherboard. I'm tempted to order this one off of ebay but is there something else I should be doing before I jump on that?


    Ed Gruberman on
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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    Short of using another known-good board, the only way is to eliminate everything else. The only other steps:

    * Strip down to CPU/one stick RAM/drive and see if it still reboots. You can potentially keep GPU in of you feel the GPU is still good (since it should be).
    * Potentially check CPU socket for bent pins but that's a long shot.

    You could also use a IR camera or IR thermometer to check for hot spots, maybe.

    Edit: pull the power and reset switches and see if it still happens if you short the pins to start instead. It's a long shot, but a quick check.

    Mugsley on
    Aridhol
  • Ed GrubermanEd Gruberman regular Registered User regular
    The GPU should still be good. I guess I'll start pulling RAM next. I did open it up and tried jiggling everything and everything seems secure. I think I saw somewhere that it could be a CMOS battery so that should be an easy one to test/replace.

    Also, I realized that the tubing on my AIO cooler is right up against the first RAM stick. It doesn't seem to be displacing it at all but is it possible that that's the problem?
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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    Ehhhh. I know you're grasping at straws but that should be a non-issue if the RAM is fully seated. The contacts for the sticks are a "U" shape at the bottom of the slot, so any side pressure shouldn't cause the stick to not make good connection. Still, remove the 1,3 pair first and see what happens.

    Ed Gruberman
  • CormacCormac regular Registered User regular
    If the contact was causing a short the system wouldn't boot at all. As others have said keep removing things until you can isolate what the problem may be. I'm wonder if it's possible the CMOS battery might be dead. That would most likely cause it to not boot at all, but it's only like $5 for a new one to see if it makes any difference.

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  • XeddicusXeddicus regular Registered User regular
    May want to try another PSU and return it if you have to if it's not the problem. Could do the same thing with the motherboard, but that's more of a pain. Problems like this are annoying as hell, my sympathy.

    "For no one - no one in this world can you trust. Not men. Not women. Not beasts...this you can trust."
  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

  • Ed GrubermanEd Gruberman regular Registered User regular
    Aridhol wrote: »
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

    It used to be that I could leave it on for days with no issues. Then it started rebooting. Sometimes it even turns itself on. Now it can reboot after having just been turned on and idled for a few minutes. Launching FFXV seems to cause it to reboot pretty consistently. I haven't gotten more than 5 minutes into that game as a result.

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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    Worth.
    d7gkv482pme7.png

    HeatwaveElvenshaeIoloIanatorSlacker1913
  • LD50LD50 regular Registered User regular
    Aridhol wrote: »
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

    It used to be that I could leave it on for days with no issues. Then it started rebooting. Sometimes it even turns itself on. Now it can reboot after having just been turned on and idled for a few minutes. Launching FFXV seems to cause it to reboot pretty consistently. I haven't gotten more than 5 minutes into that game as a result.

    It's totally your motherboard. Do you have an asrock anniversary edition?

  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    Aridhol wrote: »
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

    It used to be that I could leave it on for days with no issues. Then it started rebooting. Sometimes it even turns itself on. Now it can reboot after having just been turned on and idled for a few minutes. Launching FFXV seems to cause it to reboot pretty consistently. I haven't gotten more than 5 minutes into that game as a result.

    My money is on the mobo, bad ram slot.
    Try the one stick in each of them and try the game each time, see if you see any differences.

    You have 4 sticks and 4 slots so that's 16 tests :)


  • LD50LD50 regular Registered User regular
    It's not the ram slots, it's the motherboard itself. It's an issue I've seen before with ASrock boards of a particular generation. The "Sometimes it even turns itself on." is the big indicator.

  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    It's not the ram slots, it's the motherboard itself. It's an issue I've seen before with ASrock boards of a particular generation. The "Sometimes it even turns itself on." is the big indicator.

    Yeah, he said earlier he's got a Asrock Anniversary

  • Ed GrubermanEd Gruberman regular Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    Aridhol wrote: »
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

    It used to be that I could leave it on for days with no issues. Then it started rebooting. Sometimes it even turns itself on. Now it can reboot after having just been turned on and idled for a few minutes. Launching FFXV seems to cause it to reboot pretty consistently. I haven't gotten more than 5 minutes into that game as a result.

    It's totally your motherboard. Do you have an asrock anniversary edition?

    Yeah that's the board. And now I see the board I was considering as a replacement only has 2 SATA ports and I'm currently using 3.

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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    Aridhol wrote: »
    PC's boot fine without a cmos battery.
    Its there to do clock (time) stuff and store settings that would lost when you remove the power cable (I. E. The bios settings).

    I would suspect as others have, that it's ram or probably motherboard.

    Its unlikely to be power as you get at least 5 minutes of the system functioning. Does it correspond with anything that could increase draw or will it reboot if you just boot and let it sit?

    I know it's super tedious but you can also try one stick of ram in all slots. It's possible to have a single slot bad.

    It used to be that I could leave it on for days with no issues. Then it started rebooting. Sometimes it even turns itself on. Now it can reboot after having just been turned on and idled for a few minutes. Launching FFXV seems to cause it to reboot pretty consistently. I haven't gotten more than 5 minutes into that game as a result.

    It's totally your motherboard. Do you have an asrock anniversary edition?

    Yeah that's the board. And now I see the board I was considering as a replacement only has 2 SATA ports and I'm currently using 3.

    See what you can find in an Asus board. They tend to run about 15% more expensive but should have more ports.

    Or, you buy a riser card.

  • AridholAridhol Daddliest Catch Registered User regular
    LD50 wrote: »
    It's not the ram slots, it's the motherboard itself. It's an issue I've seen before with ASrock boards of a particular generation. The "Sometimes it even turns itself on." is the big indicator.

    Ah, wasn't aware of that. Any idea what is actually wrong with em?

  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    I'm guessing either cheap caps, or FETs that go bad, if it's related to the power.

    LD50
  • SynthesisSynthesis Honda Today! Registered User regular

    That's my motherboard (with my old CPU socket).

    It's been very reliable so far, I have to say--for a few years I had reoccurring problems with my boot drive not being detected (and then later being disconnected only while playing Elite Dangerous), but those turned out to be SSD flaws, and not the motherboard.

    Orca wrote: »
    Synthesis wrote:
    Isn't "Your sarcasm makes me wet," the highest compliment an Abh can pay a human?

    Only if said Abh is a member of the nobility.
  • The_SpaniardThe_Spaniard regular Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    There are two things I want to get this holiday season for myself.

    One of these: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814932064

    And one of these: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1424893-REG/asus_pg27uq_27_rog_swift_4k.html?ap=y&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw5_fBRCSARIsAGodhk-l1j5y9hoVn2kMda9sPuX4_Er46Zt1GaozLzGC0M6qp0xktIX92roaAjbVEALw_wcB&smp=y

    If anybody sees anything even approaching the tiniest of deals on either item or equivalent item let me know.

    Outside of this I won't be spending any more big money on myself, except for possibly Valve's new VR headset that was leaked, for about about a year.
    Welp, I took the plunge and purchased on of these CRUSHINGLY expensive monitors to replace one of my 10 year old monitors, and also future-proof myself to a degree. I was helped with my decision by the fact that some outlets are reporting that the monitor will be on sale for Black Friday for about 20% off, which I can just price match on my credit card after the monitor arrives.

    Now all I need is a deal on the graphics card. If anybody sees any kind of deal for what I'm looking for let me know, so that I can spend the last of my money and then start eating crackers & peanut butter for the foreseeable future.

    Edit:
    While I'm posting, I have a close friend that's interested in a gaming PC, and I have my last PC still sitting around from when I built my latest one. He said he'd be interested in buying it off me and fixing it up to make it into a decent mid-range second-hand gaming PC, but I don't know what would be a fair price to charge him. If I throw some specs at you guys could I get some rough estimates on what a fair "friends" price would be?

    Old PC:
    CPU: i7-2600k
    GPU: GTX 980
    RAM 16gb
    HDD 1tb Western Digital Caviar Black
    Case: Corsair Graphite 600t
    Internal Drive: DVD read/write
    OS: Windows 7 Professional upgraded to 10

    Only things that it needs is a new heat sink for the CPU, because I salvaged it for my current rig, and a new PSU, BUT I had a box with an untouched 650w one in it, which I don't know if it works or not, but am willing to throw it in as a gimme just in case it does. Also I'd be willing to throw in one of my old monitors that I'm going to replace the new one with if it would decently increase the overall value of the package. That would be a 120hz 1080p 3D monitor with active shutter glasses.

    So with all that, and keeping in mind he'd need to give it a once over to clean it up and partially put it back together, what do you think a fair price would be for all that which I originally built around Dec of 2009?
    Note: I still have most of the original packaging for all the parts, and can provide more details if it helps, this was just all off the top of my head.
    Xeddicus wrote: »
    Around $400 I'd say, since he'd be able to build a decent one for that/a little more. Better the friend/more that it'll just collect dust the lower the price from there. My opinion, anyway.

    Any other quotes? Not that I don't trust Xeddicus, I just want to build a consensus before I quote my friend a price. Would it help if I gave exact part specs?

    Also while I'm posting anything approaching any kind of deal on 2080tis for BF? If I bought one at MSRP which should I get? Also I just ordered a testicle crushingly expensive 4k monitor, so while I was debating waiting maybe one more gen before upgrading from my GTX 980, I'm thinking that with a new 4k monitor sooner is better than later. Would I be better off with a stop gap 1080ti card for a couple years, or should I just go for it?

    The_Spaniard on
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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    I have zero faith in the 20XX so I'm going to tell you to get the 1080 Ti and fall in love with your display. Also considering the 2080 Ti released roughly 2-3 weeks ago, I can confidently say there won't be any sales beyond like $10-$20 off here or there.

    If you want to go down that road, you can potentially get up to $100 off via Samsung Pay "rebate" at Best Buy but it's a lot of hoops to jump

    $400 is reasonable for that build. The 980 is the main component holding value, though the 2600k still has some residual value.

  • The_SpaniardThe_Spaniard regular Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    I have zero faith in the 20XX so I'm going to tell you to get the 1080 Ti and fall in love with your display. Also considering the 2080 Ti released roughly 2-3 weeks ago, I can confidently say there won't be any sales beyond like $10-$20 off here or there.

    If you want to go down that road, you can potentially get up to $100 off via Samsung Pay "rebate" at Best Buy but it's a lot of hoops to jump

    $400 is reasonable for that build. The 980 is the main component holding value, though the 2600k still has some residual value.

    Just to be clear is $400 fair with or without the monitor?

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  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    If the shutter glasses are those janky Nvidia ones, that's your call. Try looking up the model of the monitor and see what it's doing on eBay then drop 10-20% off that.

    It's 1080p, so depending on model, maybe $50-70 on top. The 3D feature with the glasses isn't anything that's a commodity anymore

  • The_SpaniardThe_Spaniard regular Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    If the shutter glasses are those janky Nvidia ones, that's your call. Try looking up the model of the monitor and see what it's doing on eBay then drop 10-20% off that.

    It's 1080p, so depending on model, maybe $50-70 on top. The 3D feature with the glasses isn't anything that's a commodity anymore

    I checked before, the monitor is going for about 1-150 on eBay right now, but that doesn't answer my question. The $400 price point that you agreed was fair, was that including or not including the monitor in the evaluation?

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  • LD50LD50 regular Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    I'm guessing either cheap caps, or FETs that go bad, if it's related to the power.

    My money is on caps.

  • MugsleyMugsley regular Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    If the shutter glasses are those janky Nvidia ones, that's your call. Try looking up the model of the monitor and see what it's doing on eBay then drop 10-20% off that.

    It's 1080p, so depending on model, maybe $50-70 on top. The 3D feature with the glasses isn't anything that's a commodity anymore

    I checked before, the monitor is going for about 1-150 on eBay right now, but that doesn't answer my question. The $400 price point that you agreed was fair, was that including or not including the monitor in the evaluation?

    I would say no, normally.

  • The_SpaniardThe_Spaniard regular Registered User regular
    Well, I was seriously debating getting a GTX 1080ti to tide me over for one more generation, but prices are going back up again on them and they are now within a few hundred bucks of the 2080/tis. Might as well just spend the difference to get the luke-warm hotness. If I was buying one for BF what is the best 2080ti with the best price that I can get?

    Xbox 360/One Gamertag: SpanWolf - PS3/PS4 Gamertag: Span_Wolf
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    Steam: http://steamcommunity.com/id/Span_Wolf/ - Origin: Span_Wolf
  • EndaroEndaro regular Registered User regular
    Is this the right place to ask about monitors? I did a quick search and didn't see a better dedicated thread.

    I'm looking to replace my old monitor but am a bit overwhelmed by the options. It will be used for both work/internet browsing and gaming; the games themselves include shooters (Overwatch) and a lot of strategy games, indie games, and classics. Everyone seems to be in to 1440p 144hz ips monitors these days, but I'm currently running a 970 and am not confident I could run everything at 1440p. Also, there's a lot of talk about upscaling 1080p content to 1440 looking like crap, and I intend to keep playing games mostly at 1080.

    Unfortunately, there don't seem to be a lot of options in the 1080p range without sacrificing something, and I'm not sure what to cut. 144hz and Gsync seem like a great feature for my online shooters, but image quality boosts like resolution or ips screens seem like a great thing for everything else. There are a lot of 1440p monitors with high refresh rates, g sync, and nice image quality all together, but basically none down in the 1080p range.

    Is the upscaling issue much ado about nothing? Would I be better off getting everything in a 1440p package, or should I stick to 1080p tn's and just look to increase hz?

This discussion has been closed.