PC Build thread, I come to you with a question that will hopefully be easily answerable.
My puny 500 GB SSD has become nearly-full, so I got a 1 TB SSD to upgrade to.
I've downloaded the Samsung Data Migration tool and successfully cloned the 500 GB contents to the 1 TB SSD.
However, I am unable to get the 1 TB SSD to boot successfully. Getting it set to be the primary boot option (or overriding to boot from it) just gives me the message you get when you don't have anything proper to boot with.
I've used the Samsung migration software a number of times, I typically clone the drive as normal and then shut everything down and disconnect all the drives but the freshly cloned one, to make sure it boots up okay. If something didn't take, then I'd consider formatting the drive and just trying again? There really isn't anything special to the cloning process, just source disk -> target disk... Should be just as easy as that!
This.
Two things that could cause this:
1) motherboard is confused because both drives have MBRs and are therefore competing to boot
2) target drive was not initially formatted as MBR and therefore the clone didn't work properly (MBR should be one of the options when you format the drive in Disk Management Tools in Windows).
So I've got all my parts, will probably put it together this weekend. Also dealing with a cold now.
Any reccommended build order? I imagine mounting the motherboard first, the m.2 drive may as well go in there early on. The cpu. Ram.
I guess the only part I'm not sure on is the liquid cooler vs the video card. Probably doesn't matter but that will probably the part that gets a little awkward as far as getting in each others space.
Looks like the cool did come with the update AM4 bracket.
Everyone has their own order. I would install the CPU, RAM, M.2, and other board components prior to installing the board.
It probably doesn't matter if you need to install the backplate for the cooler, assuming the mobo tray in the case has a cutout for it. If it doesn't, put that on.
The AIO probably goes next. Then any peripherals, and the GPU. Then wire it all up. Again, depending on case, you can run power before the mobo but it generally isn't required.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Anything you install on the mobo outside of PCIe parts is just easier to do before installing the board itself.
Some components may obscure mobo screws to the standoff so be cognizant of that.
Definitely don't install the CPU after installing the board into the case, tho.
+5
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OrcaAlso known as EspressosaurusWrexRegistered Userregular
Ram, cpu, heatsink, into the case, power supply, everything else
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BouwsTWanna come to a super soft birthday party?Registered Userregular
edited February 2019
I've always been a fan of (on the MOBO box) RAM, CPU, M.2, GPU, plug it all in and see if the thing POSTS. If it POSTS, shutt'er down, remove the GPU and continue with:
Told myself I'd hold off until the weekend since I'm feeling kind of crummy, but I'm slowly working my way through it now. Just taking my time.
So far the most complex element seems to be the liquid cooler. The idea of taking stuff off the motherboard and adding our bracket instead is a new one.
Also I feel I little bit disappointed I won't be using the included cpu fan/heatsink because compared to the last computer I built that heatsink and fan are HUGE. That thing is easily 2-3 times the size of the one in my current machine. I also enjoy fun things like, ok there are 4 ram slots, I'm only using two. What would make sense for which two to use. The first two? No. It's the second and the fourth slots.
PC Build thread, I come to you with a question that will hopefully be easily answerable.
My puny 500 GB SSD has become nearly-full, so I got a 1 TB SSD to upgrade to.
I've downloaded the Samsung Data Migration tool and successfully cloned the 500 GB contents to the 1 TB SSD.
However, I am unable to get the 1 TB SSD to boot successfully. Getting it set to be the primary boot option (or overriding to boot from it) just gives me the message you get when you don't have anything proper to boot with.
I've used the Samsung migration software a number of times, I typically clone the drive as normal and then shut everything down and disconnect all the drives but the freshly cloned one, to make sure it boots up okay. If something didn't take, then I'd consider formatting the drive and just trying again? There really isn't anything special to the cloning process, just source disk -> target disk... Should be just as easy as that!
This.
Two things that could cause this:
1) motherboard is confused because both drives have MBRs and are therefore competing to boot
2) target drive was not initially formatted as MBR and therefore the clone didn't work properly (MBR should be one of the options when you format the drive in Disk Management Tools in Windows).
The option to convert to Dynamic disk is available, but the option to convert to MBR is greyed out. I reformatted the 1 TB drive, but even as a fresh format the MBR option is greyed out.
I'm trying to add on a new SSD to my current system, otherwise I would have done it before having everything wired up.
Unplugging my 500 GB drive had the 1 TB drive boot up just fine. I plugged the 500 GB one back in and trying to re-arrange the boot sequence gave me the error message again... but I can manually select to boot from the 1 TB drive just fine.
Guessing I have to wipe the 500 GB drive so there aren't two SSDs with Windows on it to avoid the boot problem?
Hmm, but then I unplugged the 500 GB again and when I set the 1 TB drive to be the first selection in the boot sequence it gave me that error again (but again, let me manually select to boot from it).
Not going to mess with it any more tonight, I've got the 1 TB functioning so I can try and suss it out tomorrow.
So far so good.Figuring out the right angle to approach things with the cables and the radiator and fans to the top was a little messy at first. I also spent way too long perplexed at how to mount the regular ssd drive to the rails. The screws go through the rubber bumpers. The picture vaguely showed that, but it just didn't seem like it'd work, nothing was lining up right. Anyway. I think I'm pretty much done. Everything is in there and plugged I believe. I powered it up sans monitor and everything look ok. Going to do some cleanup on mu existing machine, finish making some backups and then give the new one a go.
@akajaybay for the future, you can literally put the SSD anywhere if you've got some double sided tape. It's essentially a super fast, super large USB drive that stays plugged in. No moving parts so it can go wherever you like.
The rubber grommets are there for noise reduction on spinning drives. Don't feel like you're forced to use them.
Yeah that was some bad terminology mixing up on my part. It was the regular storage disk drive with a SATA connector, not a SSD drive.
The full test will have to wait until tomorrow. Need to hit up the store and get a adapter for my monitor connection. My current one is dual link dvi only and the new card does not have one of those.
I did like how this case had a nice backstage area to route all the cabling through. Usually my builds are just a web of wires going wherever they need to get to without much mind for window looking.
So my current monitor only has a dvi dual link connection which seems to have gone out of favor. The new video card doesn’t have that. Figured I’d just run out to the store today and grab a cable to connect the two. No such luck at local stores. So will have to wait for an online order for that.
But I wanted to figure out how the build went and start installing this so I’m borrowing my wife’s monitor for now. Since it’s never perfect my hitch this time was the m2 drive was not being recognized. So I had to crack it open and take the graphic card out to get at it. I installed it in the 2nd m2 slot instead so it won’t be as buried by the gpu. Getting that m2 screw back in place with everything down in the case was a bit of a struggle but got that in, set the pc back up and it’s sees it now. Working on the windows install.
did a bit of overclocking to help me run anthem a bit better.
GPU:
+450mhz on the memory
+175mhz on the core clock
CPU:
All core overclock to 5Ghz (9600k is 3.7Ghz with 4.6 turbo)
All on air cooling.
Temps hovering in the mid 50's (Seems like I have good airflow!)
FPS went from 60's-70's to high 80's - 100+
edit:
I used the asus ez-tune or whatever for this and only after an hour noticed it was pushing 1.48v through the CPU core which is just ridiculous and probably dangerous for it.
I set a max cap of 1.35 and it's still stable and actually only pulling 1.264v at max so that's much much better.
I mention this in case anyone else goes to use the "automatic" overclocking utilities in their bios. Make sure it's not going mental with the voltage.
Aridhol on
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ChaosHatHop, hop, hop, HA!Trick of the lightRegistered Userregular
Quick question. Woke up this morning and went downstairs to take the dog out, found the PC had booted itself into BIOS overnight. Boot drive doesn't show up anymore, other two drives do. I change the SATA connection the boot drive is using to an unused one, finds drive, everything seems fine. Buuuuut, should the fact that one of the ports is broken mean I should start saving for a new MOBO?
Thoughts on the 1660 Ti? I was kind of super stoked for this card, only to see it come in at 1070ish level performance, but $280. I was really hoping nVidia would have kept the price in the $250 range the 1060 was in. The custom cards are already starting to come in in the $300 range, which for me makes this a $400 CAD card.
I just hate hate hate the trend of the prices creeping up.
Thoughts on the 1660 Ti? I was kind of super stoked for this card, only to see it come in at 1070ish level performance, but $280. I was really hoping nVidia would have kept the price in the $250 range the 1060 was in. The custom cards are already starting to come in in the $300 range, which for me makes this a $400 CAD card.
I just hate hate hate the trend of the prices creeping up.
I thi think for a 1080p gaming build its a good option. For 1440p though I'd save the extra 50 bucks and get a 2060 though.
I dunno, it's a weird card to release honestly.
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jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
Apparently the performance to price difference between the 1660ti and 2060 is linear.
The newest drivers have really done some good stability work, so I'm not so trigger shy about recommending a 2060. It's a great card that absolutely fills in an X70 role as we're used to.
Oof. Trying to play the game of "will this motherboard support RGB RAM?" and it seems like the only answer ever is buy it and cross your fingers.
Or not using RGB but then why even have a computer.
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
So the fact that my existing monitor only has a dual link dvi connection is really biting me in the ass, Wishing I'd noticed that when video card shopping.
There are no easy adapter options for this problem, There are for regular dvi or for signals to a max of 1080p, but if you want to use the 1440p then you're looking at a $100 powered thing to translate the signal which I have to imagine is also going to add some latency to the mix.
No great options at the moment.
So the fact that my existing monitor only has a dual link dvi connection is really biting me in the ass, Wishing I'd noticed that when video card shopping.
There are no easy adapter options for this problem, There are for regular dvi or for signals to a max of 1080p, but if you want to use the 1440p then you're looking at a $100 powered thing to translate the signal which I have to imagine is also going to add some latency to the mix.
No great options at the moment.
Having a similar experience with the RTX 2060 I put into my new machine. With zero DVI ports, I need to get some HDMI cables for my monitors.
Black lives matter.
Law and Order ≠ Justice
ACNH Island Isla Cero: DA-3082-2045-4142
Captain of the SES Comptroller of the State
@akajaybay are you US? I may have one of those adapters still kicking around if you want to give it a go. Just pay for shipping. Shoot me a PM
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Theodore Flooseveltproud parent of eight beautiful girls and shalmelodorne (which is currently being ruled by a woman (awesome role model for my daughters)) #dornedadRegistered Userregular
hey gang! so i ordered all the parts to my first pc build, but the motherboard is on backorder... with no real indicator of how long it'll be til it's back in stock. I'd ideally like to move forward on this build ASAP (if it were a week or two i'd probably wait, but i don't really wanna wait indefinitely), so I'm looking at two options for alternatives--anyone have any advice on substitutes?
being as this is my first build and i'm really going off of advice from here and elsewhere, i'm not 100% on what i may be losing/gaining through different options
I happen really like Asus's bios so I'd consider the ROG Strix B450-F Gaming or the TUF B450-Plus Gaming. Something like the GIGABYTE B450 AORUS Elite is also worth taking a look at.
Is there a specific (e.g. driver) related issue as to why certain video inputs on my computer wouldn't work? I've got DVI (GPU), HDMI (both to my Mobo and GPU) and VGA (GPU), but I only seem to get a signal from my GPU HDMI connector. It's not a big issue as I only plan to use one monitor with my computer, but I just thought it odd.
the ports on the motherboard are for if you're using integrated graphics. in many cases, hey won't work when you have a GPU.
for other ports on the GPU, it's possible your monitor doesn't auto-switch inputs if you have something else plugged in, in which case you'd have to change it on the monitor manually.
hey gang! so i ordered all the parts to my first pc build, but the motherboard is on backorder... with no real indicator of how long it'll be til it's back in stock. I'd ideally like to move forward on this build ASAP (if it were a week or two i'd probably wait, but i don't really wanna wait indefinitely), so I'm looking at two options for alternatives--anyone have any advice on substitutes?
being as this is my first build and i'm really going off of advice from here and elsewhere, i'm not 100% on what i may be losing/gaining through different options
I have am having difficulty figuring which monitor I should buy. I am looking for a:
1) Flat monitor
2) 1080p resolution
3)~2ms response time / 144Hz refresh rate
5) Any size 20" or over
4) Would prefer a monitor under $200
5) Planning to buy nvidia rtx 2060
I have been reading about G-sync, but the monitors that support it are well above what I would like to pay. Does anyone have experience with G-sync?
hey gang! so i ordered all the parts to my first pc build, but the motherboard is on backorder... with no real indicator of how long it'll be til it's back in stock. I'd ideally like to move forward on this build ASAP (if it were a week or two i'd probably wait, but i don't really wanna wait indefinitely), so I'm looking at two options for alternatives--anyone have any advice on substitutes?
being as this is my first build and i'm really going off of advice from here and elsewhere, i'm not 100% on what i may be losing/gaining through different options
I would go with the tomahawk.
I have the B450 Tomahawk and it's been a really solid board. No complaints here.
hey gang! so i ordered all the parts to my first pc build, but the motherboard is on backorder... with no real indicator of how long it'll be til it's back in stock. I'd ideally like to move forward on this build ASAP (if it were a week or two i'd probably wait, but i don't really wanna wait indefinitely), so I'm looking at two options for alternatives--anyone have any advice on substitutes?
being as this is my first build and i'm really going off of advice from here and elsewhere, i'm not 100% on what i may be losing/gaining through different options
I would go with the tomahawk.
I have the B450 Tomahawk and it's been a really solid board. No complaints here.
I was going to get that board but found a good deal on the x470 and I like my usb ports
So the fact that my existing monitor only has a dual link dvi connection is really biting me in the ass, Wishing I'd noticed that when video card shopping.
There are no easy adapter options for this problem, There are for regular dvi or for signals to a max of 1080p, but if you want to use the 1440p then you're looking at a $100 powered thing to translate the signal which I have to imagine is also going to add some latency to the mix.
No great options at the moment.
One workaround could be to route the graphic card output to the integrated graphic (given that it has an onboard dual-link DVI port). - Thats how people got freesync working before nvidia officially supported it. Its doable within Windows without external programs:
Yeah my PC is just shutting down (directly to black screen) with the fan going into overdrive when trying to run benchmark tests (Furmark and Memtest). New sticks of RAM and tried a few different DIMM slots so unless I messed up the slots something big I don't think it's that. I checked the BIOS to ensure enough voltage is being output to the RAM, but I don't know if there are other interfering BIOS settings and will be checking the power connections today.
I'm going to bring in my PC into the shop to see if it's PSU related. I tried plugging it directly into the outlet so I don't think it's a problem with my surge protector, and a 550W PSU should definitely be pushing out enough power for my build.
I should've followed advice here and ran benchmark tests before mounting to verify the health of the parts.
Posts
This.
Two things that could cause this:
1) motherboard is confused because both drives have MBRs and are therefore competing to boot
2) target drive was not initially formatted as MBR and therefore the clone didn't work properly (MBR should be one of the options when you format the drive in Disk Management Tools in Windows).
Any reccommended build order? I imagine mounting the motherboard first, the m.2 drive may as well go in there early on. The cpu. Ram.
I guess the only part I'm not sure on is the liquid cooler vs the video card. Probably doesn't matter but that will probably the part that gets a little awkward as far as getting in each others space.
Looks like the cool did come with the update AM4 bracket.
It probably doesn't matter if you need to install the backplate for the cooler, assuming the mobo tray in the case has a cutout for it. If it doesn't, put that on.
The AIO probably goes next. Then any peripherals, and the GPU. Then wire it all up. Again, depending on case, you can run power before the mobo but it generally isn't required.
Some components may obscure mobo screws to the standoff so be cognizant of that.
Definitely don't install the CPU after installing the board into the case, tho.
Edit: Also, never forget the BLOOD
So far the most complex element seems to be the liquid cooler. The idea of taking stuff off the motherboard and adding our bracket instead is a new one.
Also I feel I little bit disappointed I won't be using the included cpu fan/heatsink because compared to the last computer I built that heatsink and fan are HUGE. That thing is easily 2-3 times the size of the one in my current machine. I also enjoy fun things like, ok there are 4 ram slots, I'm only using two. What would make sense for which two to use. The first two? No. It's the second and the fourth slots.
The option to convert to Dynamic disk is available, but the option to convert to MBR is greyed out. I reformatted the 1 TB drive, but even as a fresh format the MBR option is greyed out.
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
Unplugging my 500 GB drive had the 1 TB drive boot up just fine. I plugged the 500 GB one back in and trying to re-arrange the boot sequence gave me the error message again... but I can manually select to boot from the 1 TB drive just fine.
Guessing I have to wipe the 500 GB drive so there aren't two SSDs with Windows on it to avoid the boot problem?
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
Not going to mess with it any more tonight, I've got the 1 TB functioning so I can try and suss it out tomorrow.
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
The rubber grommets are there for noise reduction on spinning drives. Don't feel like you're forced to use them.
The full test will have to wait until tomorrow. Need to hit up the store and get a adapter for my monitor connection. My current one is dual link dvi only and the new card does not have one of those.
I did like how this case had a nice backstage area to route all the cabling through. Usually my builds are just a web of wires going wherever they need to get to without much mind for window looking.
But I wanted to figure out how the build went and start installing this so I’m borrowing my wife’s monitor for now. Since it’s never perfect my hitch this time was the m2 drive was not being recognized. So I had to crack it open and take the graphic card out to get at it. I installed it in the 2nd m2 slot instead so it won’t be as buried by the gpu. Getting that m2 screw back in place with everything down in the case was a bit of a struggle but got that in, set the pc back up and it’s sees it now. Working on the windows install.
GPU:
+450mhz on the memory
+175mhz on the core clock
CPU:
All core overclock to 5Ghz (9600k is 3.7Ghz with 4.6 turbo)
All on air cooling.
Temps hovering in the mid 50's (Seems like I have good airflow!)
FPS went from 60's-70's to high 80's - 100+
edit:
I used the asus ez-tune or whatever for this and only after an hour noticed it was pushing 1.48v through the CPU core which is just ridiculous and probably dangerous for it.
I set a max cap of 1.35 and it's still stable and actually only pulling 1.264v at max so that's much much better.
I mention this in case anyone else goes to use the "automatic" overclocking utilities in their bios. Make sure it's not going mental with the voltage.
I just hate hate hate the trend of the prices creeping up.
I thi think for a 1080p gaming build its a good option. For 1440p though I'd save the extra 50 bucks and get a 2060 though.
I dunno, it's a weird card to release honestly.
The newest drivers have really done some good stability work, so I'm not so trigger shy about recommending a 2060. It's a great card that absolutely fills in an X70 role as we're used to.
Or not using RGB but then why even have a computer.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
There are no easy adapter options for this problem, There are for regular dvi or for signals to a max of 1080p, but if you want to use the 1440p then you're looking at a $100 powered thing to translate the signal which I have to imagine is also going to add some latency to the mix.
No great options at the moment.
Having a similar experience with the RTX 2060 I put into my new machine. With zero DVI ports, I need to get some HDMI cables for my monitors.
Law and Order ≠ Justice
ACNH Island Isla Cero: DA-3082-2045-4142
Captain of the SES Comptroller of the State
here's the build as-is:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8cV9Hh
and here are what seem to be the two closest-ish alternatives (if i'm not seeing a better option, please, feel free to say so):
tomahawk
gaming plus
being as this is my first build and i'm really going off of advice from here and elsewhere, i'm not 100% on what i may be losing/gaining through different options
Steam: CavilatRest
for other ports on the GPU, it's possible your monitor doesn't auto-switch inputs if you have something else plugged in, in which case you'd have to change it on the monitor manually.
I would go with the tomahawk.
I have am having difficulty figuring which monitor I should buy. I am looking for a:
1) Flat monitor
2) 1080p resolution
3)~2ms response time / 144Hz refresh rate
5) Any size 20" or over
4) Would prefer a monitor under $200
5) Planning to buy nvidia rtx 2060
I have been reading about G-sync, but the monitors that support it are well above what I would like to pay. Does anyone have experience with G-sync?
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/msi-optix-mag240vc-23-6-led-curved-fhd-freesync-monitor-black/6303794.p?skuId=6303794
I have the B450 Tomahawk and it's been a really solid board. No complaints here.
I was going to get that board but found a good deal on the x470 and I like my usb ports
Just need some curtains, flooring and window trim.
This is my "battlestation"
http://imgur.com/gallery/NcXKXDE
Not seen behind the bookshelf is my Linux machine that drives the rightmost monitor.
One workaround could be to route the graphic card output to the integrated graphic (given that it has an onboard dual-link DVI port). - Thats how people got freesync working before nvidia officially supported it. Its doable within Windows without external programs:
I'm going to bring in my PC into the shop to see if it's PSU related. I tried plugging it directly into the outlet so I don't think it's a problem with my surge protector, and a 550W PSU should definitely be pushing out enough power for my build.
I should've followed advice here and ran benchmark tests before mounting to verify the health of the parts.
Steam: CavilatRest