The new forums will be named Coin Return (based on the most recent vote)! You can check on the status and timeline of the transition to the new forums here.
The Guiding Principles and New Rules document is now in effect.

Help me choose a new bike

psyck0psyck0 Registered User regular
Hello,

I'm in the market for a new bike. It will primarIly be used for city commuting of 15-45 minute rides with panniers, but I would like the option to go on rougher terrain if needed. My budget is $2000-3000 CDN. I have had my eye on one at MEC. I think I would need to get different wheels and tires for city riding, though. Does anyone have suggestions?

Thanks

Play Smash Bros 3DS with me! 4399-1034-5444
steam_sig.png

Posts

  • SerpentSerpent Sometimes Vancouver, BC, sometimes Brisbane, QLDRegistered User regular
    edited November 2018
    I am a Canadian but living in Australia. I picked up cycling here so keep that in mind to caveat my advice/opinions. I have a good Canadian friend who is big into cycling that I'll ask this about to get a 2nd opinion. Might take me a day or two.

    That seems incredibly expensive for what you get. Typically I expect bikes in Australia to be far more expensive than Canada but I am telling you that would be a total ripoff bike in Australia.

    Part of this is the brand. I personally wouldn't consider MEC gear to be 'high end'. It's usually decent quality at a decent price. But you're paying a decent chunk of cash here. It might be worth going to a dedicated bike shop and asking their opinion, whether it be a random bike shop or whether it be a dedicated dealer of Specialised, Giant, Trek, etc. I'm just thinking of when I went bike shopping here about 4 months ago and I found far better Specialised and Trek bikes at similar price points, and specialised and trek are not cheap brands.

    In my experience Giant give you some of the best bang for your buck from a brand perspective, as they're the biggest manufacturer of bikes in the world and even manufacture bikes for some of the other big brands.

    Other than that, I think you've got your eye on the right idea. 105 groupset is very good and probably the right 'minimum' with that budget.
    Disc brakes are the way to go espescially with inclement weather. I think though at that price point you could get a better brand and potentially fully carbon. I also think if you're doing almost purely city riding I think you'd be better off getting a real road bike rather than a gravel bike. You'll be compromising 90% of your riding just for a bit of flexibility.

    Serpent on
  • psyck0psyck0 Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    Is fully carbon actually better? I have no experience with carbon bikes, this will be my first good purchase.

    I should add I will frequently be pulling my two kids in a chariot behind me on weekends.

    psyck0 on
    Play Smash Bros 3DS with me! 4399-1034-5444
    steam_sig.png
  • SerpentSerpent Sometimes Vancouver, BC, sometimes Brisbane, QLDRegistered User regular
    Fully carbon is generally considered better. There are some opinions to the contrary.

    The issue is that this is priced like a fully carbon bike to my wrong country, wrong currency eye. Alloy is typically cheaper except for the very few brands that still produce high end alloy bikes.

  • SerpentSerpent Sometimes Vancouver, BC, sometimes Brisbane, QLDRegistered User regular
    Just as an idea. And I'm not sure if this bike supports paniers and all that. It is a gravel bike.

    https://giant-bicycles.com/ca/bikes-anyroad-advanced-2019

    Similar price, much bigger brand, fully carbon, same groupset, disc brakes. I haven't tested this bike, don't own it, and haven't researched it -- but it's probably where I would start.

  • Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    edited November 2018
    For example, if you leaned more towards road riding (whilst still being capable of hitting hard pack dirt if you needed to), a bike like this gets you full carbon and hydraulic(omg so much better than cable it's not even funny) disc brakes with the drivetrain you're after: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/fastroad-advanced-1-2019
    You should be able to fit panniers to it, they'll just be the style that clamps on to the bottom of the seat stay instead of bolting into the dropout.
    It's got 28mm 700c tubeless tyres, so riding on pavement will be noticeably easier and faster than on 650x42 off-road tyres, but sand and loose gravel would be a no-go.

    Donovan Puppyfucker on
  • Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    There's also bikes like this, which is a touch more expensive, but also good to go offroad properly with 700x40 tubeless tyres factory fitted from the get-go, and capable of up to 700x45 tyres and fenders, with full carbon and hydraulic disc brakes: https://www.giant-bicycles.com/ca/revolt-advanced-2-2019

  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    Mec bikes are probably rebranded big names. I have a novara bike which is rei's brand and it's high quality

    camo_sig.png
  • djmitchelladjmitchella Registered User regular
    My current bike has 1.9" (=48mm) tires and they're just fine for city riding; they have enough knobbliness to ride across snow/ice/dirt/roots/gravel okay, but somehow manage to avoid being really draggy-feeling on tarmac. (Kenda small block 8). That said, I've also ridden on rooty singletrack (dry, though) on 25mm slicks and that was fine as well, so it's definitely possible to get tires that will work in a lot of circumstances.

    Agreed with all the other suggestions to look beyond MEC, though -- that much money will get you quite a lot of bike, and at that price point you probably want to make sure it fits the way you expect. I'm on the no-to-carbon front myself, but that's because I lock my bike up/drop it on to all sorts of things so it's always getting dinged up, and I don't want to have to worry about unexpected failure because of scuffs/scrapes.

    (oh, and SE++ has a bike thread that you could ask in, as well.)

  • schussschuss Registered User regular
    For your use, either go with the carbon suggestions so far or go something like surly/salsa that's steel. There's a weight penalty, but they ride nice and are more resilient to damage and UV.

  • psyck0psyck0 Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    So I was able to try out the MEC bike and discovered that it is too upright for me. The reach (? I think that is the term) is too short. I guess that means looking more at a traditional road bike. Seems like the Giant Fastroad is probably more like what I want? Although it might be a bit upright too. And has the wrong handlebars, but those can be changed.

    psyck0 on
    Play Smash Bros 3DS with me! 4399-1034-5444
    steam_sig.png
  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    You might want to check out city bikes. Not sure if that is a universal class but it's what rei called the bike I got. It has the geometry of a slightly relaxed road bike but more solid frame of a mountain or hybrid

    camo_sig.png
  • psyck0psyck0 Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    Currently my top two finds are a carbon touring bike for $2750 (https://www.opusbike.com/en/product/adventure/254-horizon-1.html?CouleurId=277) and a steel/carbon bike for $2100 (https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5059-558/Provincial-Road-222-Bicycle). This is a different bike from before. Is the price difference worth it? Should I avoid the opus just because the color scheme is absolute ass? (I mean who in their right mind would run with camo handlebars...)

    The opus is 1.5 kg lighter too.

    psyck0 on
    Play Smash Bros 3DS with me! 4399-1034-5444
    steam_sig.png
  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    That is certainly a choice they made on that Opus. Christ, pick one color from the camo and make the handlebars a solid color.

    Or make the whole bike camo.

  • Donovan PuppyfuckerDonovan Puppyfucker A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    I'm leaning towards the Opus. You could ask the store to wrap the bars in plain black instead of the camo when you order it.

  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    edited November 2018
    You mentioned that you are going to be using this for commuting. Does your workplace have secure bike-storage? Does every other place that you cycle (grocery store, tavern, etc) have secure bike storage? That is literally the only way I'd consider going full carbon or that expensive with a commuting bike. If you'll be locking it up outside, a full carbon bike is just waaaay too tempting a target for bike thieves. And don't kid yourself with expensive locks. Locks are there to prevent crimes of opportunity and dumb/unprepared thieves. Dedicated bike thieves who regularly see an expensive carbon bike in a certain spot can get through any lock on the market within 60-90 seconds with a portable grinder.

    As was mentioned earlier, I'd look at a steel Salsa, Surly or All-City. Surlys are heavy, but there's a lot of very light Salsa frames out there that would fit you. A lot steel frames are within a 1 or 2 lbs of carbon frames these days. Don't pay so much attention to the weight of the frame, the components and wheels are where most of your weight is coming from. I dare someone to tell me they feel a significant difference between an 18lb full carbon bike and a 20lb All-City. (For full reference, I own a full carbon Spesh Roubaix, but I bought it less for the weight and more for the frame stiffness/flex performance since it's only used for riding fast during workouts, not as applicable to commuting).

    Seriously, commuting bikes get beat to shit, don't spend that much on one, you want a tank, not a Ferrari.

    Simpsonia on
  • kaliyamakaliyama Left to find less-moderated fora Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    You mentioned that you are going to be using this for commuting. Does your workplace have secure bike-storage? Does every other place that you cycle (grocery store, tavern, etc) have secure bike storage? That is literally the only way I'd consider going full carbon or that expensive with a commuting bike. If you'll be locking it up outside, a full carbon bike is just waaaay too tempting a target for bike thieves. And don't kid yourself with expensive locks. Locks are there to prevent crimes of opportunity and dumb/unprepared thieves. Dedicated bike thieves who regularly see an expensive carbon bike in a certain spot can get through any lock on the market within 60-90 seconds with a portable grinder.

    As was mentioned earlier, I'd look at a steel Salsa, Surly or All-City. Surlys are heavy, but there's a lot of very light Salsa frames out there that would fit you. A lot steel frames are within a 1 or 2 lbs of carbon frames these days. Don't pay so much attention to the weight of the frame, the components and wheels are where most of your weight is coming from. I dare someone to tell me they feel a significant difference between an 18lb full carbon bike and a 20lb All-City. (For full reference, I own a full carbon Spesh Roubaix, but I bought it less for the weight and more for the frame stiffness/flex performance since it's only used for riding fast during workouts, not as applicable to commuting).

    Seriously, commuting bikes get beat to shit, don't spend that much on one, you want a tank, not a Ferrari.

    I'd agree with this - i'd suggest getting a cheaper more expendible commuter bike and then go carbon and fancy for a weekender. for 15-45 minute city rides you don't need max performance and won't be heartbroken if it gets stolen.

    fwKS7.png?1
  • SerpentSerpent Sometimes Vancouver, BC, sometimes Brisbane, QLDRegistered User regular
    I agree with others. I can't be sure, of course, but based on what you said you want your bike for, you are spending too much cash. The amount of cash you are spending will get you a good entry level bike for 'serious cycling'... ie go for 4+ hour rides with it. It's what I bought. But that doesn't fit your needs. I'd go much cheaper.

  • djmitchelladjmitchella Registered User regular
    (cross-quoting from the bike thread, because this one is more active, emphasis mine):
    psyck0 wrote: »
    Want a rain weather commuter, unlikely to be much snow, that can pull a bike trailer with kids and still be fun to get out on my own.

    It's worth bearing in mind that the Opus has a rear 12mm through axle, which means that you'll have to get some sort of adapter to hook up a trailer to it; the MEC bike has a regular QR, and as far as I can tell Chariot (Thule nowadays)'s bike attachment kit still just comes with a long skewer -- so you'd have to get extra parts to get a trailer attached to the Opus.

    (and later on, both of those have carbon seatposts, so you'll want to replace that before fixing a trail-a-bike to it. As far as I can tell, the extra load from pulling a trailer isn't a problem with carbon frames in general, though I'd suggest trying to double-check with Opus first just to be on the safe side, if they have some sort of contact address)

  • mtsmts Dr. Robot King Registered User regular
    not all trailers connect to the seat post, ours connects to the rear rail with a clamp. not the same as a trail bike

    camo_sig.png
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Also, if fitness is one of the reasons you want this, you honestly won't hurt yourself with a heavier bike. They're all super rideable, and you'll get more of a workout. Full carbon is for racing.

    What is this I don't even.
  • WiseManTobesWiseManTobes Registered User regular
    What province if i may ask, rough terrain means very different things in the Rockies vs the Prairies

    Steam! Battlenet:Wisemantobes#1508
  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    As Tobes mentions, terrain also matters. If you regularly ride where there's little to no elevation change (like I do in the midwest), a little heavier bike is actually better because it maintains momentum and resists cross-winds better than ultra-light bikes. Light bikes are really meant for when you are climbing elevation or constantly changing speed and are constantly accelerating (racing), but if you are maintaining speed, weight is actually better.

    Just to dive back into the frame material question, the main reason people go carbon, as I did for my weekender, is more about feel of the frame. Steel frames are very forgiving. They smooth out a ride really well, but they are heavier and can have some frame flex under acceleration. Aluminum bikes are lighter and stiffer than steel, don't have that frame flex, but often have a harsh ride quality, which is why they are often paired with a carbon fork. Full carbon frames are the best of both worlds in that they are incredibly lightweight, stiff under acceleration (they feel like they just go when you jump on the pedals), but also really dampen road noise to create a ride that's not as harsh as aluminum frames. The downside is their expense and relative fragility. Carbon is incredibly strong, until it's not. One unseen crack can catastrophically fail mid-ride. This isn't common, but it happens enough that there's an entire subreddit designated just for carbon fails. This is why carbon bikes are usually reserved for weekend bikes that you baby, not a commuter.

Sign In or Register to comment.