Homeowner/House Thread: It's going to cost how much, now?

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  • Mace1370Mace1370 Registered User regular
    So recently bought a house about a month ago. The house has an electric gate into the backyard that consists of two doors that swing inwards. After about a week of being in the house, I noticed that the two doors starts to scrape against the ground when they were fully opened. It became bad enough that they got stuck in the open positive and I had to physically dislodge each door while hitting the close button the remote.

    We hired a gate repair company to fix the issue. They offered us two options: install brace posts or redo the posts of the gate entirely. We went with the latter options. It was pricey, but would maintain the original look of the backyard and the gate. The repair was schedule to be done on two different days. One day one they would take out the old gate posts and dig new holes, put in new concrete with new posts, and let the concrete set. After the concrete set for about a week they came back and hooked up the two doors, which had been left leaning against the inside of our fence.

    Turns out that they didn't seal the gate operator box correctly and some water damage must have occurred, because upon putting the gate doors back up one of the doors did not operate. The contractor told me that it was likely the circuit board and that they would replace it at their cost (he told me it was roughly a $700 board). Several days later he comes out with a new board but that doesn't fix the problem. Upon inspection of the gate arm, the contractor told me that there is also electrical damage to the actuator. I receive a call from the manager of the gate repair company a few days later and am told that we will basically need to replace the entire right door gate operator to the tune of $3500. The manager implied that I should bear this cost. I explained to him that the gate functioned before they did the repairs and that I believed they should be responsible, since it was their error to not seal the operator box correctly. The manager stated that "there is no evidence we caused this problem and who knows if this part was operating correctly prior to our repair" and said that he would have to talk with his supervisor to see if they could cover it. I didn't get a chance to ask them if they carried insurance for this type of thing, but I will address it the next time I speak with them. The gate was opening and closing just fine before they got there and their contract even mentioned a week ago that he suspected he didn't seal the operator box correctly.

    Am I going to be screwed if they refuse to pay for this? It sounds like if they fight me on it I may have to take them to small claims court, which would be a new experience for me.

  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    SeñorAmor wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

    $55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.

    Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.

    Yeah, you want a spool of something like this:

    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103

    We're both looking at the same thing. I was just checking the 500' spools.

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  • chr1sh4ll3ttb3chr1sh4ll3ttb3 A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    The red circle is where any sane person would normally put the downspout, designed to drain onto the driveway.
    If you were desperate for another option, you could run a pipe over where the lime green is and connect that length of guttering to the downspout which is going to be there, but that's not going to look very good.

    if6gllosm6wz.jpg

    BullheadJimBobtheMonkey
  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    edited July 31
    The red circle is where any sane person would normally put the downspout, designed to drain onto the driveway.
    If you were desperate for another option, you could run a pipe over where the lime green is and connect that length of guttering to the downspout which is going to be there, but that's not going to look very good.
    if6gllosm6wz.jpg

    Yeah, red's where they're gonna put it. I was just worried about damage to the walkway because of the water from it, but I guess that's not an issue I need to worry about.

    Edit: I guess my wording wasn't very clear in my original post, my bad.

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  • BullheadBullhead Registered User regular
    edited July 31
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    Couldn't they run a piece across the front of the door arch there and down the left post? Seems like the better way to then let it drain into that gravel field.

    *edit* Was a page behind, Chris nailed what I was suggesting with his green box. I don't think it'd look that bad (especially if the gutter is white to match the other trim).

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  • chr1sh4ll3ttb3chr1sh4ll3ttb3 A dagger in the dark is worth a thousand swords in the morningRegistered User regular
    Bullhead wrote: »
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    Couldn't they run a piece across the front of the door arch there and down the left post? Seems like the better way to then let it drain into that gravel field.

    *edit* Was a page behind, Chris nailed what I was suggesting with his green box. I don't think it'd look that bad (especially if the gutter is white to match the other trim).

    A length of pipe there to connect the guttering up would have to have a "fall" (5-10 degrees downslope to encourage water flow) built into it, so there would be a piece of pipe fitted to the portico there that was slightly but obviously not level.

    Perhaps I just have an eye for that kind of thing, but it would be very visually jarring to me.

    To be perfectly honest, I don't understand why the builders didn't design that section of the roof to just be the same height as the part behind it, cantilever the little porch section, and not have that vertical column or the intermediate step down in the roof to the garage at all.

  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    You could easily run either a length of gutter or a length of downspout over that part of the porch and support it from the waves overhead.

    Bullhead
  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular

    Yeah, red's where they're gonna put it. I was just worried about damage to the walkway because of the water from it, but I guess that's not an issue I need to worry about.

    Edit: I guess my wording wasn't very clear in my original post, my bad.

    To be honest, I'd probably prefer the green solution to the red. With the location on the red your downspout will be dumping out a lot of water right in the path of potential foot traffic (either down your driveway in front of the sidewalk, or across the sidewalk into the decorative stone). I guess I just don't like the idea of having to force guests to either step into a wave of water, or jump over it risking a slip & fall on my property.

    BullheadJebus314
  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    It'd be a lot more labor but they could potentially run the drain under the sidewalk; usually that's best done before the sidewalk is poured but whether it is cutting a hole or slot there may be some ways to do it post-sidewalk.

  • The WolfmanThe Wolfman Registered User regular
    It's important to make sure it's properly flowing away and doesn't just sit and pool on the walk. But any scenario where the spout is shooting out a flow of water onto someone's ankles... is also one where water is plummeting on their heads from the sky.

    The perspective is kind of screwy on the picture. It looks like the right roof is sloping down towards the door. So I initially thought a downspout would have to be put next to the stairs. That would be something you'd want to avoid, and my suggestion would also have been to possibly go the "ugly" route with bridging it over the roof on the yellow line. But if it is flat, then the red spot is the best place. And if you're still paranoid about the water, then you could get fancy with running it underground.

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  • firewaterwordfirewaterword Satchitananda Pais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered User regular
    OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.

    I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated B) super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!

    Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited August 1
    OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.

    I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated B) super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!

    EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.

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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    If you ever want to figure out just how not square or plumb a room is, try installing beadboard on the walls. I seriously considered arson as an alternative about halfway through the job. It looks great, but it seriously took me four days to do a 30' x 11' rectangle room. And there are still two spots where I just said to hell with it and the lines are a bit diagonal. Never again.

    nibXTE7.png
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    That's what corners and baseboard are for!

    zagdrob
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    edited August 2
    webguy20 wrote: »
    OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.

    I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated B) super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!

    EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.

    Here's a current deal (Greenworks):

    https://slickdeals.net/f/14235557-greenworks-glm801601-21-inch-80v-cordless-push-lawn-mower-includes-two-2ah-batteries-and-charger-379

    Mugsley on
  • schussschuss Registered User regular
    If you ever want to figure out just how not square or plumb a room is, try installing beadboard on the walls. I seriously considered arson as an alternative about halfway through the job. It looks great, but it seriously took me four days to do a 30' x 11' rectangle room. And there are still two spots where I just said to hell with it and the lines are a bit diagonal. Never again.

    Try crown molding. Used probably twice the amount I should have.

    DoodmannElvenshae
  • firewaterwordfirewaterword Satchitananda Pais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    OK so I have like a hundred "oh my god what is happening" new homeowner stories already but since we're kind of in triage mode here, I need some quick recommendations on battery powered mowers.

    I initially wanted to stick with the dewalt ecosystem (got a ton of their XR stuff) but that mower is A) not super well rated B) super expensive C) will not arrive until I'll need a machete and a lifeline to navigate this lawn!

    EGO is the current popular wireless mower. There might be adapters to adapt XR batteries to the EGO connector. The Decent Battery Mowers are all expensive though.

    Here's a current deal (Greenworks):

    https://slickdeals.net/f/14235557-greenworks-glm801601-21-inch-80v-cordless-push-lawn-mower-includes-two-2ah-batteries-and-charger-379

    Yep, that's the one I ended up going with. Maybe a bit more than I need but sales.

    Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu
  • southwicksouthwick Registered User regular
    Treehouse interior completed
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/z66yUFCasXWPXAHM6

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  • HappylilElfHappylilElf Registered User regular
    southwick wrote: »

    Dear lord! What kind of lovecraftian nightmare have you constructed that it's able to warp reality?

    (No seriously though that looks amazing!)

    ShadowfireCarpyBullhead
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    southwick wrote: »

    So do I just put my suitcase over by the shelves, or...?

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  • southwicksouthwick Registered User regular
    I'll let you know when it's on air bnb

    Mugsley
  • firewaterwordfirewaterword Satchitananda Pais Vasco to San FranciscoRegistered User regular
    Going to have to dive into the horrible looking maw of automatic sprinkler repair...

    Rainbird system with what looks like 4 zones (well, 4 pipes anyway, 5 if you count the one that doesn't seem to go to any sprinkler heads, which I'm guessing is like a purge valve or something?) split between two boxes out front. Box one controls two zones (plus the purge((?)) valve) out front, box two has two for the back. There are also some drip lines connected, but it looks like only some of those work.

    The controller in the garage has power, and the flow is all working properly (I've been manually operating the system using the valves in the boxes every other day for the last week - not fun) but I'm guessing the wire from the controller might have been severed? Part of the sale involved the seller fixing a sewer line issue which involved a 11' deep trench out front, so I'm thinking that may have been involved.

    I found a tutorial online this morning which shows how to use 3 9v batteries to kick open the valves, which I may try if I can convince myself that I have a reasonable chance of not electrocuting myself. I'm sure I'll have to eventually get someone in, but I'm handing out checks left and right these days.

    Lokah Samastah Sukhino Bhavantu
  • BogartBogart Streetwise Hercules Fighting The Rising Odds Registered User, Moderator mod
    Someone tear down this dilapidated old deathtrap and build us up a new, shiny McMansion of a thread.

    Jebus314
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