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Homeowner/House Thread: It's going to cost how much, now?

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  • Steel AngelSteel Angel Registered User regular
    bowen wrote: »
    there's also leaf blowers that reverse to a vacuum and into a mulching bag

    I ordered one of those over the weekend. My townhouse doesn't have a lawn and instead has vinca planted as ground cover. I'm almost certain this will work better than trying to rake around the plants.

    Big Dookie wrote: »
    I found that tilting it doesn't work very well, and once I started jerking it, I got much better results.

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  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    So, we will be doing a reno on the house we bought which involves a bunch of work being done on the garage, partly because of a rotten post and partly because it was originally a car port that got enclosed without permits.

    It's got a functional garage door opener right now, but are smart-garage door openers a thing? Thinking about something where we could check remotely through an app if it was left open, close it remotely, etc.

    :so_raven:
  • MortiousMortious The Nightmare Begins Move to New ZealandRegistered User regular
    Corvus wrote: »
    So, we will be doing a reno on the house we bought which involves a bunch of work being done on the garage, partly because of a rotten post and partly because it was originally a car port that got enclosed without permits.

    It's got a functional garage door opener right now, but are smart-garage door openers a thing? Thinking about something where we could check remotely through an app if it was left open, close it remotely, etc.

    They exist, though I personally didn't see the point so I haven't looked into them.

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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    edited November 4
    Chamberlain makes several "smart" garage doors that work through the MyQ app. Genie makes them that work with Alexa/Google Home. You can also get an external hub to use with non-smart doors, ours is a Craftsman from 1993 so about as "dumb" as possible, the hub wires into where the wall button is, it has a tilt sensor that attaches to the door, and I can control it through Wink.

    matt has a problem on
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  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Corvus wrote: »
    So, we will be doing a reno on the house we bought which involves a bunch of work being done on the garage, partly because of a rotten post and partly because it was originally a car port that got enclosed without permits.

    It's got a functional garage door opener right now, but are smart-garage door openers a thing? Thinking about something where we could check remotely through an app if it was left open, close it remotely, etc.

    They are. The Chamberlain MyQ is the only one I'm familiar with. It's finicky, but works well once it's finally set up.

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  • Knight_Knight_ Dead Dead Dead Registered User regular
    my garage is one of the myq enabled ones. it's useful. i mostly use it to make sure the door is closed when i leave because i don't always remember hitting the button. saves me the trip back to avoid the mental anguish.

    you gotta pay to hook it up to the various smart services though which is stupid.

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  • SeñorAmorSeñorAmor !!! Registered User regular
    That’s a 30” tall (uncompressed) leaf pile

    Mulching via mower has been tried many times and does not work, and was maybe even more physically taxing (walk behind mower) than blowing/shoveling

    Well, yes, but only because you raked it into said pile.

    Either un-rake it or don't rake it in the first place and hit it with your mower instead. :)

    Captain Inertia
  • Satanic JesusSatanic Jesus Hi, I'm Liam! Registered User regular
    After a week with a leaky pipe, and having to keep the water off unless we needed it like to shower or wash clothes/dishes, etc., I have finally, maybe, got in touch with a plumber who isn't on holiday or extremely busy. Now to hope he actually shows up tomorrow, unlike the other plumber who only told me why when I called him a couple days later.

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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    edited November 5
    I bought this faucet because it was advertised as fitting 4" to 6" centers.

    BVRF5IP.jpg

    4.75" isn't 4"...

    Oh the instructions are helpful...

    G9UlBCE.jpg

    "Fits 4" centers if you cut pieces off it."

    matt has a problem on
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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    edited November 5
    This is what it's replacing. Someone, likely in the late 80s or early 90s, took the original slantback faucet off and replaced it with this piece of crap that isn't made for the sink at all.

    yifV1i1.jpg

    They used the appropriate amount of plumber's putty too.

    eR5hD42.jpg

    Vintage slantback faucets go for $300-600+ these days. After doing a lot of work on this house over the past 10 years it's become apparent that someone "remodeled" it at some point and stripped off everything that was worth anything in the house and replaced it all with cheap garbage. Fortunately Central Brass is now making modern replacements that only cost $100.

    matt has a problem on
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    Shadowfire
  • GorkGork Registered User regular
    Ugh ugh ugh. According to my contractor bro in law, the gasket in my outdoor faucet shutoff valve has failed. His plumber says it’s easy to fix but requires shutting off the house water. The complicating factors are that I have a week old baby, a wife recovering from surgery and sleep deprivation. Somebody convince me I shouldn’t just call a plumber in the morning.

  • That_GuyThat_Guy I don't wanna be that guy Registered User regular
    Call a plumber and spend some time with your family.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    If you can swing it, one night in a hotel may do you some good as well. It'll at least give you a chance to take a deep breath.

    chrishallett83
  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    Get some jugs of distilled water and call a plumber.

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
    Aegis
  • webguy20webguy20 Spends too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    I bought this faucet because it was advertised as fitting 4" to 6" centers.

    BVRF5IP.jpg

    4.75" isn't 4"...

    Oh the instructions are helpful...

    G9UlBCE.jpg

    "Fits 4" centers if you cut pieces off it."

    This isn't uncommon for this kind of stuff. The expectation is that if you can do the work to install the fixture, taking a bit off won't be a big deal.

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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    uLz52bH.jpg

    It even looks happier than the old faucet.

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  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    That looks much better.

    Assume the middle hole is to feed the power for the temp-based LEDs?

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    I think it's where the chain on the old style drop-in drain plug would've passed through. It's just open to the under side of the sink, the front lip has the overflow drain holes in it.

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    N1tSt4lker
  • SyngyneSyngyne Registered User regular
    Anyone have experience with exposed tendon anchors on post-tension foundations? The concrete has flaked off a couple of anchors in my foundation, and I’m wondering if I should just clean and patch it myself, or if it’s something that warrants calling a professional in. The foundation did have some work done on it years ago and I haven’t had any issues, but I also have never dealt with a post-tension foundation before and don’t know if you need to call someone as soon as you see an anchor or what.

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  • SatanIsMyMotorSatanIsMyMotor Registered User regular
    If it's just the tendon and not the hairpin rebar I think you'd be fine to just grout the end back in.
    Granted I've got no personal experience with that kind of foundation.

  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    RedTide wrote: »
    Anyone here have anything good to say about Nest thermostats?

    Ease of installation/use?

    Easy to install, even easier to use. I replaced what was probably the original Honeywell thermostat (40 years old in that case) and now have a nice little programable thermostat I can access remotely.

    That's everything I wanted out of it.

    Extreaminatus
  • AegisAegis Not Quite TorontoRegistered User regular
    I think it's where the chain on the old style drop-in drain plug would've passed through. It's just open to the under side of the sink, the front lip has the overflow drain holes in it.

    So that's what those holes are for.

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  • OptyOpty Registered User regular
    For something heavy like a medicine cabinet (vs like a towel rack) how important is it that you attach it to a stud? I want to put one up in my master bath on the short wall next to the sink but the stud placement on that wall isn't such that I could use a stud when hanging it up. Will drywall anchors be enough or should I get some additional wood that I connect perpendicular to the stud and then attach the cabinet to that?

  • KruiteKruite Registered User regular
    Opty wrote: »
    For something heavy like a medicine cabinet (vs like a towel rack) how important is it that you attach it to a stud? I want to put one up in my master bath on the short wall next to the sink but the stud placement on that wall isn't such that I could use a stud when hanging it up. Will drywall anchors be enough or should I get some additional wood that I connect perpendicular to the stud and then attach the cabinet to that?

    How heavy is the medicine cabinet? if it's a light aluminum thing I wouldn't be too worried about finding the stud.

    If it's heavier, then you should do the latter; joust a piece of wood between the studs and use it to anchor the cabinet in place.

  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    edited November 6
    Get a prescription for a weight loss drug.

    Or just use some big anchors. I've gone with a couple of 50lbers and never had an issue.

    MichaelLC on
    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    The originals in our house (~1972) are built to fit between the studs and side-screw (bolt?) into the studs on each side.


    Can you build a cleat that anchors to both studs but is covered by the cabinet?

    HappylilElfbowendjmitchella
  • Jebus314Jebus314 Registered User regular
    Dry wall anchors have weight ratings on them. Put the medicine cabinet on a scale, add say 20 lbs to be on the safe side (for what goes into it), then find an anchor rated for that much weight. Or that much weight divided by two if you are using two anchors.

    They make anchors that are rated for like 150 lbs, so I am sure you could find what you need.

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  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    I use these for hanging soundbars at jobs because they never hit studs if you're centering them below a TV. They're great for drywall and plaster.

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  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    The best method is getting a recessed cabinet so you can open the wall and build a frame for it to sit inside the wall. The second best method is using some sort of strapping either actual strapping or a big chunk of plywood screwed into the studs.

    I'd open the wall. Drywall and paint are cheap and you want to avoid using anchors in rooms that have lots of moisture because it will weaken the drywall over time and in 5 or so years that thing will rip itself off the wall even with only band aids in it.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, don't @ me
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  • AbsoluteZeroAbsoluteZero The new film by Quentin Koopantino Registered User regular
    So I gots me a leaky turlet. Discovered drips in the basement whenever we flush it. I suspect the wax seal is toast, but the flange could be busted too for all I know. Additionally, I have no idea how long this has been going on for so I'm hoping the subfloor isn't fucked. Is this more a DIY situation or is it best to call a plumber?

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  • bowenbowen How you doin'? Registered User regular
    I mean you can try to do the wax seal yourself, that's an easy $5 fix and it might solve it.

    But if it's the flange or a joint in the pipe just get a plumber at that point.

    not a doctor, not a lawyer, don't @ me
    AbsoluteZeroMugsley
  • electricitylikesmeelectricitylikesme Registered User regular
    Got the bathroom silicone'd up. Ultimately it needs to come out, but that can wait till the other bathroom...exists.

    Xandar
  • AbsoluteZeroAbsoluteZero The new film by Quentin Koopantino Registered User regular
    Ok so I replaced the wax seal on my leaky turlet. That was thoroughly disgusting. That old wax is a supreme pain in the butt to clean off the flange and the bottom of the toilet. It's so sticky and soaked in urine and turd water from the leaks. I actually opted for a wax free gasket so at least if I have to do this again I won't need to deal with that nasty wax. Setting the toilet and lining it up just right with the drain is hard enough on its own.

    The subfloor seemed ok except in some spots right up against the flange and drain pipe. But the flange and pipe seemed pretty solid. It's all cast iron, a little surface rust but otherwise ok. I discovered the true problem though. The flange is not level with the floor, leading to toilet wobble and eventual gasket failure. My plan is to shim the toilet to stop the wobbles. Hopefully that will be the end of it. So far so good though, the basement drips seem to have stopped.

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    Senna1
  • webguy20webguy20 Spends too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Ok so I replaced the wax seal on my leaky turlet. That was thoroughly disgusting. That old wax is a supreme pain in the butt to clean off the flange and the bottom of the toilet. It's so sticky and soaked in urine and turd water from the leaks. I actually opted for a wax free gasket so at least if I have to do this again I won't need to deal with that nasty wax. Setting the toilet and lining it up just right with the drain is hard enough on its own.

    The subfloor seemed ok except in some spots right up against the flange and drain pipe. But the flange and pipe seemed pretty solid. It's all cast iron, a little surface rust but otherwise ok. I discovered the true problem though. The flange is not level with the floor, leading to toilet wobble and eventual gasket failure. My plan is to shim the toilet to stop the wobbles. Hopefully that will be the end of it. So far so good though, the basement drips seem to have stopped.

    As long as the subfloor wasn't actually rotten, it will all dry out and be fine. Even if it is a bit rotten, it will still all dry out.

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  • schussschuss Registered User regular
    Installed a new toilet downstairs, so nice not having to plunge every poop.

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  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    Spent all day re-framing my garage roof. Old owner removed a bunch of joists to install the garage door opener track. Which, of course, lead to the rafters kicking out the top plate and wall where the joist was acting as a rafter tie. Re-installed new joists, and turned the existing joists into trusses so that I could safely remove another part of one of the joists so I could create a golf hitting station in my garage for the 6 months a year it's too cold to swing outside.

    My step-dad, a retired contractor was on hand to give all the expertise, but couldn't really do much work anymore due to arthritis, so I pretty much did it all. Apparently, being a professional desk jockey does not prepare one for construction work. Using a pro-grade pneumatic nailgun for 7 hours straight has left me unable to lift my arms...

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  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    Anyone have recommendations for an indoor window herb garden? I live in an apt and would like occasional fresh herbs.

  • OneAngryPossumOneAngryPossum Registered User regular
    edited November 10
    Weird issue, first time replacing electrical outlets.

    The kitchen outlets are all in a series, and I’m installing a gfci outlet at the first outlet. Got it in fine, flipped the breaker back on, and now I’m getting power at the downstream outlets, but not the new GFCI outlet. Did I mix up a wire somewhere, or is this possibly an issue with the GFCI outlet itself? I’ve tried resetting/testing with no luck.

    I’m about to uninstall the outlet and use a multimeter to make sure I’ve got the right wires in the right place (next time I’ll be sure to do this the first time), but again, first time doing this, so it’s possible I’m on the wrong track.

    Edit: Right wires, outlet installed upside down. Ugh.

    Edit edit: Nope. Now no power anywhere on the line.

    Huh.

    OneAngryPossum on
  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Cauld wrote: »
    Anyone have recommendations for an indoor window herb garden? I live in an apt and would like occasional fresh herbs.

    I don't think a window will give enough light for herbs to grow? At least from cursory googling.

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  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    Cauld wrote: »
    Anyone have recommendations for an indoor window herb garden? I live in an apt and would like occasional fresh herbs.

    I don't think a window will give enough light for herbs to grow? At least from cursory googling.

    Is it a light filtering thing? My windows get a lot of light. They're east facing, but it remains bright most of the day.

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