Homeowner/House Thread: It's going to cost how much, now?

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  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    edited January 14
    So I have a patio/deck conundrum. My back yard is pretty small, maybe 25ftx20ft. The back fence buts up right against the alley. Just on my side of the fence is a large oak tree. It's nice that it provides shade for my whole building from the east, and I'd like to keep it alive and around as long as possible. I'd also like to have useable backyard space like a patio or deck where I could put an outdoor dining area, grill, etc. Now with the oak tree on the alley, almost 180 degrees of its roots are covered by asphalt from the alley, meaning it probably gets all of its water from my meager back yard, the drip line being directly over where I'd want my patio/deck.

    That makes a stone/brick paver patio out of the question, since they use compacted watertight base. The other option is a floating (not attached to the house) deck. Unfortunately, my city has some pretty stringent codes, and I can't make heads or tales whether a unattached floating deck on a concrete pier block system is even up to code, or whether everything needs to be in buried concrete footings (42" deep in my climate zone). If I have to go so deep, I might run into a root and risk killing the tree that way. Also no a fan of going from a ground level back door and back sidewalk and having the deck 7-8" above that.

    The next thing I discovered was wood deck tiles. These are pretty interesting, and manufacturers say they can be installed anywhere, even bare ground, as long as it's flat. I've looked at permeable base solutions, and that all seems a mixed bag. Pea gravel isn't very compactable, so doesn't make a stable base, even if it is good for drainage. At this point I'm wondering if my only option is to just dig down about an inch and a half and compact and level the dirt, throw down some geotextile barrier and lay the wood deck tiles directly on top of that. Frost heave will almost certainly make things uneven every year, but I guess I could just pull up the tile and try to tamp things down again flat. Anyone have any experience/ideas here?

    Edit: picture here: https://imgur.com/a/OJWc3aV

    Simpsonia on
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    I'm in the midst of some refinancing and it seems like everything is approved and good to go..

    Is there anything I should be aware of here?

    Like it seems solidly like a bunch of great upsides with no reason not to. (shorter term, lower rate, technically slightly lower payments, and an overall savings of pretty damn huge over the lifetime of the loan)

    And maybe that is the case! But whenever something seems to be this good for so little effort when I don't know too much about it I become mildly wary.

    Nope - as long as you aren't rolling a bunch of money from closing costs into your loan (and sometimes even if you are), refinancing tends to be all upside (or you wouldn't go through with it).

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  • DemonStaceyDemonStacey TTODewback's Daughter In love with the TaySwayRegistered User regular
    Elvenshae wrote: »
    I'm in the midst of some refinancing and it seems like everything is approved and good to go..

    Is there anything I should be aware of here?

    Like it seems solidly like a bunch of great upsides with no reason not to. (shorter term, lower rate, technically slightly lower payments, and an overall savings of pretty damn huge over the lifetime of the loan)

    And maybe that is the case! But whenever something seems to be this good for so little effort when I don't know too much about it I become mildly wary.

    Nope - as long as you aren't rolling a bunch of money from closing costs into your loan (and sometimes even if you are), refinancing tends to be all upside (or you wouldn't go through with it).

    Awesome to have confirmation on that!

    And yea the payments still come out lower with all the closing stuff rolled into it.

    desc wrote: »
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  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Anyone have experience with changing cable companies? We have Comcast coming Saturday and previously were with Verizon but they are being bitchy about pricing.

    I'm likely going to keep the Verizon service through this month as overlap. Any tips for hopping between them?

    (Just bought a good cable modem so I'm not sure what the Comcast dude is going to do when he shows up, that I couldn't do)

    We're using this to move fully over to streaming.

    Should be fine. Call Comcast and check if your model is ok, or if it has a Comcast/Xfinity logo on the box it's probably good.

    I don't know if you can use both at once unless you have separate equipment? Otherwise just have Comcast set up your network with the same SSID & passwords and should be seamless with devices.

    I switched over to a Netgear with my existing Comcast no problem except that I needed an extra router for the security system. Still need to call about that.

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
  • evilmrhenryevilmrhenry Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    So I have a patio/deck conundrum. My back yard is pretty small, maybe 25ftx20ft. The back fence buts up right against the alley. Just on my side of the fence is a large oak tree. It's nice that it provides shade for my whole building from the east, and I'd like to keep it alive and around as long as possible. I'd also like to have useable backyard space like a patio or deck where I could put an outdoor dining area, grill, etc. Now with the oak tree on the alley, almost 180 degrees of its roots are covered by asphalt from the alley, meaning it probably gets all of its water from my meager back yard, the drip line being directly over where I'd want my patio/deck.

    That makes a stone/brick paver patio out of the question, since they use compacted watertight base. The other option is a floating (not attached to the house) deck. Unfortunately, my city has some pretty stringent codes, and I can't make heads or tales whether a unattached floating deck on a concrete pier block system is even up to code, or whether everything needs to be in buried concrete footings (42" deep in my climate zone). If I have to go so deep, I might run into a root and risk killing the tree that way. Also no a fan of going from a ground level back door and back sidewalk and having the deck 7-8" above that.

    The next thing I discovered was wood deck tiles. These are pretty interesting, and manufacturers say they can be installed anywhere, even bare ground, as long as it's flat. I've looked at permeable base solutions, and that all seems a mixed bag. Pea gravel isn't very compactable, so doesn't make a stable base, even if it is good for drainage. At this point I'm wondering if my only option is to just dig down about an inch and a half and compact and level the dirt, throw down some geotextile barrier and lay the wood deck tiles directly on top of that. Frost heave will almost certainly make things uneven every year, but I guess I could just pull up the tile and try to tamp things down again flat. Anyone have any experience/ideas here?

    I'm not sure that stone/brick paver patios require a watertight base. Honestly, that sounds like a recipe for puddles on your patio, and frost damage every year. I think you should get a second opinion there.

  • CptHamiltonCptHamilton Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    So I have a patio/deck conundrum. My back yard is pretty small, maybe 25ftx20ft. The back fence buts up right against the alley. Just on my side of the fence is a large oak tree. It's nice that it provides shade for my whole building from the east, and I'd like to keep it alive and around as long as possible. I'd also like to have useable backyard space like a patio or deck where I could put an outdoor dining area, grill, etc. Now with the oak tree on the alley, almost 180 degrees of its roots are covered by asphalt from the alley, meaning it probably gets all of its water from my meager back yard, the drip line being directly over where I'd want my patio/deck.

    That makes a stone/brick paver patio out of the question, since they use compacted watertight base. The other option is a floating (not attached to the house) deck. Unfortunately, my city has some pretty stringent codes, and I can't make heads or tales whether a unattached floating deck on a concrete pier block system is even up to code, or whether everything needs to be in buried concrete footings (42" deep in my climate zone). If I have to go so deep, I might run into a root and risk killing the tree that way. Also no a fan of going from a ground level back door and back sidewalk and having the deck 7-8" above that.

    The next thing I discovered was wood deck tiles. These are pretty interesting, and manufacturers say they can be installed anywhere, even bare ground, as long as it's flat. I've looked at permeable base solutions, and that all seems a mixed bag. Pea gravel isn't very compactable, so doesn't make a stable base, even if it is good for drainage. At this point I'm wondering if my only option is to just dig down about an inch and a half and compact and level the dirt, throw down some geotextile barrier and lay the wood deck tiles directly on top of that. Frost heave will almost certainly make things uneven every year, but I guess I could just pull up the tile and try to tamp things down again flat. Anyone have any experience/ideas here?

    If you do any kind of paver/tile deal without a waterproof barrier under it you're likely going to end up with grass/weeds growing in the cracks pretty quickly.

    If you think a floating deck would work but just aren't sure if it's legally an option you could find a contractor and ask them to come out and give you a quote. They should know the codes in your area and whether what you want to do is legal.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    edited January 14
    MichaelLC wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Anyone have experience with changing cable companies? We have Comcast coming Saturday and previously were with Verizon but they are being bitchy about pricing.

    I'm likely going to keep the Verizon service through this month as overlap. Any tips for hopping between them?

    (Just bought a good cable modem so I'm not sure what the Comcast dude is going to do when he shows up, that I couldn't do)

    We're using this to move fully over to streaming.

    Should be fine. Call Comcast and check if your model is ok, or if it has a Comcast/Xfinity logo on the box it's probably good.

    I don't know if you can use both at once unless you have separate equipment? Otherwise just have Comcast set up your network with the same SSID & passwords and should be seamless with devices.

    I switched over to a Netgear with my existing Comcast no problem except that I needed an extra router for the security system. Still need to call about that.

    I don't want to go into details much, but I have the network setup specifically so that the Modem connects to a switch, and everything connects to the switch; including my wifi router/AP. So even now, I have the FiOS wifi shut off and I'm using it as a gateway + DHCP.

    I'll have the cable disconnected from the FiOS gateway before the tech arrives, since I don't even use it now anyway.

    The modem I bought was one of the models listed as compatible on the Xfinity website, but I'll make sure the tech confirms (Netgear CM1000)

    Mugsley on
  • Jebus314Jebus314 Registered User regular
    Today I am annoyed. We closed on our house late November of last year. One of the conditions was that we service our ductless splits, so obviously we did so. At the time the technician said everything was fine though there was some work that could eventually get done on the units in the form of a new cover and potentially a new motor for one of the units down the road. I tell him I'm not interested so long as the units are in working order now as we're selling the house.

    Today we get a call from our agent who tells us he got a call from our buyer's agent saying they're coming after us because one of the ductless splits has broken. They sent along a report from the folks who cleaned and maintained the unit when we were selling that we never received. I did see the report as I signed it on the bottom but it's clear that after the technician left the house he added the line "Owner is selling the house and does not want to fix anything. New buyers may want to." - this is after I signed the report.

    I'm at a loss. I feel we held up our end of the agreement by getting the units maintained and providing the associated invoice. Now I'm receiving this mysterious report with info that wasn't on it when I signed it. I honestly don't even know how the new owners got the report.

    It's probably talk to a lawyer time. Because so long as you met the requirement of the sale, it doesn't matter one lick what the technician says was or was not required. So if the sale says you have to get them "serviced" (not inspected or repaired) and you got them serviced, then the buyers can fuck off with any claims. You met the conditions of the agreement, and it was on the buyers to not accept sale if they felt additional work was required from inspection or service reports they received.

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  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    I'll post a picture another time, but finally cleaned up the garage a little and it's SO much better.

    Previously it was wire shelves above a Rubbermaid-type shelf thing with doors, and it was impossible to get anything or of the unit, and the shelves were too narrow with stuff falling off.

    So using some IKEA credit, I got a bunch of their white plastic boxes and also a deep plastic shelf unit from Amazon. Moved some of the other stuff around, drilled a few hooks into the cinderblock, and just tidied up.

    So much better, but best is the $13 motion sensor I plugged the overhead light into so now when I open the side door the light turns on instead of walking to the main door and flipping the switch.

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
    KetarMugsley
  • AbbalahAbbalah Registered User regular
    Elvenshae wrote: »
    I'm in the midst of some refinancing and it seems like everything is approved and good to go..

    Is there anything I should be aware of here?

    Like it seems solidly like a bunch of great upsides with no reason not to. (shorter term, lower rate, technically slightly lower payments, and an overall savings of pretty damn huge over the lifetime of the loan)

    And maybe that is the case! But whenever something seems to be this good for so little effort when I don't know too much about it I become mildly wary.

    Nope - as long as you aren't rolling a bunch of money from closing costs into your loan (and sometimes even if you are), refinancing tends to be all upside (or you wouldn't go through with it).

    Awesome to have confirmation on that!

    And yea the payments still come out lower with all the closing stuff rolled into it.

    Generally the only time you end up 'losing' on a refi is if you sell the house before the accumulated savings from the refi become larger than the closing costs you incur by doing it. Obviously the time before you break even varies based on both the terms of the refi and the terms of your previous mortgage, but it usually takes in the neighborhood of 1-3 years. If you know you're gonna stay in your house longer than that, it's probably free money. If you move next year, you can end up losing on the transaction. That's basically where the risk is (but even then, your exposure is pretty much limited to the amount of the closing costs at most).

  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    MichaelLC wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Anyone have experience with changing cable companies? We have Comcast coming Saturday and previously were with Verizon but they are being bitchy about pricing.

    I'm likely going to keep the Verizon service through this month as overlap. Any tips for hopping between them?

    (Just bought a good cable modem so I'm not sure what the Comcast dude is going to do when he shows up, that I couldn't do)

    We're using this to move fully over to streaming.

    Should be fine. Call Comcast and check if your model is ok, or if it has a Comcast/Xfinity logo on the box it's probably good.

    I don't know if you can use both at once unless you have separate equipment? Otherwise just have Comcast set up your network with the same SSID & passwords and should be seamless with devices.

    I switched over to a Netgear with my existing Comcast no problem except that I needed an extra router for the security system. Still need to call about that.

    I don't want to go into details much, but I have the network setup specifically so that the Modem connects to a switch, and everything connects to the switch; including my wifi router/AP. So even now, I have the FiOS wifi shut off and I'm using it as a gateway + DHCP.

    I'll have the cable disconnected from the FiOS gateway before the tech arrives, since I don't even use it now anyway.

    The modem I bought was one of the models listed as compatible on the Xfinity website, but I'll make sure the tech confirms (Netgear CM1000)

    That's the modem I have with Comcast, it should work absolutely fine.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • SatanIsMyMotorSatanIsMyMotor Registered User regular
    edited January 15
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Today I am annoyed. We closed on our house late November of last year. One of the conditions was that we service our ductless splits, so obviously we did so. At the time the technician said everything was fine though there was some work that could eventually get done on the units in the form of a new cover and potentially a new motor for one of the units down the road. I tell him I'm not interested so long as the units are in working order now as we're selling the house.

    Today we get a call from our agent who tells us he got a call from our buyer's agent saying they're coming after us because one of the ductless splits has broken. They sent along a report from the folks who cleaned and maintained the unit when we were selling that we never received. I did see the report as I signed it on the bottom but it's clear that after the technician left the house he added the line "Owner is selling the house and does not want to fix anything. New buyers may want to." - this is after I signed the report.

    I'm at a loss. I feel we held up our end of the agreement by getting the units maintained and providing the associated invoice. Now I'm receiving this mysterious report with info that wasn't on it when I signed it. I honestly don't even know how the new owners got the report.

    It's probably talk to a lawyer time. Because so long as you met the requirement of the sale, it doesn't matter one lick what the technician says was or was not required. So if the sale says you have to get them "serviced" (not inspected or repaired) and you got them serviced, then the buyers can fuck off with any claims. You met the conditions of the agreement, and it was on the buyers to not accept sale if they felt additional work was required from inspection or service reports they received.

    Yeah I agree. I work with contracts all the time so I'm incredibly comfortable with how we approached the situation. I've told my agent to tell theirs that they can pound sand or take me to small claims court but that they can expect to have a counter-claim for my lost wages if I have to show up in court.

    We're two months out from the sale of that house now and we're talking about a piece of equipment that sees 24/7 use that sits outside in the middle of a Canadian winter. There's no way I'm responsible for this. These are first time home buyers and this is likely them not understanding that there's no warranty on an old house and I'm not their landlord.

    SatanIsMyMotor on
    Jebus314HappylilElfMaguano
  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    So I have a patio/deck conundrum. My back yard is pretty small, maybe 25ftx20ft. The back fence buts up right against the alley. Just on my side of the fence is a large oak tree. It's nice that it provides shade for my whole building from the east, and I'd like to keep it alive and around as long as possible. I'd also like to have useable backyard space like a patio or deck where I could put an outdoor dining area, grill, etc. Now with the oak tree on the alley, almost 180 degrees of its roots are covered by asphalt from the alley, meaning it probably gets all of its water from my meager back yard, the drip line being directly over where I'd want my patio/deck.

    That makes a stone/brick paver patio out of the question, since they use compacted watertight base. The other option is a floating (not attached to the house) deck. Unfortunately, my city has some pretty stringent codes, and I can't make heads or tales whether a unattached floating deck on a concrete pier block system is even up to code, or whether everything needs to be in buried concrete footings (42" deep in my climate zone). If I have to go so deep, I might run into a root and risk killing the tree that way. Also no a fan of going from a ground level back door and back sidewalk and having the deck 7-8" above that.

    The next thing I discovered was wood deck tiles. These are pretty interesting, and manufacturers say they can be installed anywhere, even bare ground, as long as it's flat. I've looked at permeable base solutions, and that all seems a mixed bag. Pea gravel isn't very compactable, so doesn't make a stable base, even if it is good for drainage. At this point I'm wondering if my only option is to just dig down about an inch and a half and compact and level the dirt, throw down some geotextile barrier and lay the wood deck tiles directly on top of that. Frost heave will almost certainly make things uneven every year, but I guess I could just pull up the tile and try to tamp things down again flat. Anyone have any experience/ideas here?

    If you do any kind of paver/tile deal without a waterproof barrier under it you're likely going to end up with grass/weeds growing in the cracks pretty quickly.

    If you think a floating deck would work but just aren't sure if it's legally an option you could find a contractor and ask them to come out and give you a quote. They should know the codes in your area and whether what you want to do is legal.

    Yeah, that's what the geotextile is, a non-woven fabric barrier. It's mostly preferred to landscaping fabric now because it actually allows good drainage through it, but prevents anything else from coming up. Expensive stuff though. As for the deck quote, I might just have to do that. Extensive googling and reading of the actual building code has found me nothing, so I might just have to call someone for a quote and then copy their plan.

  • Jebus314Jebus314 Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    MichaelLC wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Anyone have experience with changing cable companies? We have Comcast coming Saturday and previously were with Verizon but they are being bitchy about pricing.

    I'm likely going to keep the Verizon service through this month as overlap. Any tips for hopping between them?

    (Just bought a good cable modem so I'm not sure what the Comcast dude is going to do when he shows up, that I couldn't do)

    We're using this to move fully over to streaming.

    Should be fine. Call Comcast and check if your model is ok, or if it has a Comcast/Xfinity logo on the box it's probably good.

    I don't know if you can use both at once unless you have separate equipment? Otherwise just have Comcast set up your network with the same SSID & passwords and should be seamless with devices.

    I switched over to a Netgear with my existing Comcast no problem except that I needed an extra router for the security system. Still need to call about that.

    I don't want to go into details much, but I have the network setup specifically so that the Modem connects to a switch, and everything connects to the switch; including my wifi router/AP. So even now, I have the FiOS wifi shut off and I'm using it as a gateway + DHCP.

    I'll have the cable disconnected from the FiOS gateway before the tech arrives, since I don't even use it now anyway.

    The modem I bought was one of the models listed as compatible on the Xfinity website, but I'll make sure the tech confirms (Netgear CM1000)

    That's the modem I have with Comcast, it should work absolutely fine.

    Just an FYI for @shadowfire and @mugsley, apparently that modem (and probably most modems) has a pretty significant vulnerability. Not sure if there is a patch yet. Cross post from the security thread:
    Today in network security news: A wide variety of cable modems are vulnerable to a newly disclosed remote access exploit. Not the router, but the actual cable modem.
    Hundreds of millions of cable modems are vulnerable to critical takeover attacks by hackers halfway around the world, researchers said.

    The attacks work by luring vulnerable users to websites that serve malicious JavaScript code that's surreptitiously hosted on the site or hidden inside of malicious ads, researchers from Denmark-based security firm Lyrebirds said in a report and accompanying website. The JavaScript then opens a websocket connection to the vulnerable cable modem and exploits a buffer overflow vulnerability in the spectrum analyzer, a small server that detects interference and other connectivity problems in a host of modems from various makers. From there, remote attackers can gain complete control over the modems, allowing them to change DNS settings, make the modem part of a botnet, and carry out a variety of other nefarious actions.

    Cable Haunt, as the researchers have named their proof-of-concept exploit, is known to work on various firmware versions of the following cable modems:

    Seems like this attack is being served up via JavaScript, which means it can be delivered to your computer via ads even on trusted websites. It's unclear if having your own router between you and the modem makes a difference.

    I'm hoping JavaScript whitelisting and ad blocking are sufficient, because my cable modem is on the list, and there are NO firmware updates available for my cable modem.

    Edit The Cable Haunt website has a much more exhaustive list of vulnerable modems that include other brands than those listed in the Ars article. I recommend checking the Cable Haunt site to see if you are impacted.

    Notably, Arris Surfboard modems appear vulnerable.

    The cable haunt website has a more extensive lists which indicates the CM1000 is vulnerable for up to the latest patch (V6.01.02), although it was a community verification rather than verified by the guys who found the original exploit.

    "The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Yep. At this point it's pretty much all the cables modems. I'm keeping an eye out for updates.

    evilmrhenryJebus314
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    @Jebus314 apparently cable modem updates have to be sent down by the ISP. :rotate:

    JFC they don't want us to do anything on our own.

    MichaelLCShadowfireAbsoluteZero
  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    @Jebus314 apparently cable modem updates have to be sent down by the ISP. :rotate:

    JFC they don't want us to do anything on our own.

    for 99% of the people who have cable modems, this is probably the preferred state.

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  • SatanIsMyMotorSatanIsMyMotor Registered User regular
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Today I am annoyed. We closed on our house late November of last year. One of the conditions was that we service our ductless splits, so obviously we did so. At the time the technician said everything was fine though there was some work that could eventually get done on the units in the form of a new cover and potentially a new motor for one of the units down the road. I tell him I'm not interested so long as the units are in working order now as we're selling the house.

    Today we get a call from our agent who tells us he got a call from our buyer's agent saying they're coming after us because one of the ductless splits has broken. They sent along a report from the folks who cleaned and maintained the unit when we were selling that we never received. I did see the report as I signed it on the bottom but it's clear that after the technician left the house he added the line "Owner is selling the house and does not want to fix anything. New buyers may want to." - this is after I signed the report.

    I'm at a loss. I feel we held up our end of the agreement by getting the units maintained and providing the associated invoice. Now I'm receiving this mysterious report with info that wasn't on it when I signed it. I honestly don't even know how the new owners got the report.

    It's probably talk to a lawyer time. Because so long as you met the requirement of the sale, it doesn't matter one lick what the technician says was or was not required. So if the sale says you have to get them "serviced" (not inspected or repaired) and you got them serviced, then the buyers can fuck off with any claims. You met the conditions of the agreement, and it was on the buyers to not accept sale if they felt additional work was required from inspection or service reports they received.

    Yeah I agree. I work with contracts all the time so I'm incredibly comfortable with how we approached the situation. I've told my agent to tell theirs that they can pound sand or take me to small claims court but that they can expect to have a counter-claim for my lost wages if I have to show up in court.

    We're two months out from the sale of that house now and we're talking about a piece of equipment that sees 24/7 use that sits outside in the middle of a Canadian winter. There's no way I'm responsible for this. These are first time home buyers and this is likely them not understanding that there's no warranty on an old house and I'm not their landlord.

    The plot thickens with this. Turns out this is all happening because the company that serviced our ductless splits provided the buyers of our old home with a document absent any context saying I refused a bunch of repairs (when in fact they were all presented to me as optional things that could be fixed down the line as a means for them to sell me a maintenance plan). This document also contains a bunch of personal information including my name, email, and phone number.

    So I'm pretty fucking pissed. I'm in Canada so this is looking like a violation of PIPEDA and as such I've filed a complaint with the privacy commissioner. I've also requested a sit down meeting with the owner of the company that did the servicing so I can understand how often the perform this practice, and frankly, so I can give him a piece of my mind.

    ElvenshaeBanzai5150CarpyDaenrisN1tSt4lkerwebguy20Out Of Context
  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Do you guys have any advice on blinds or shades? Ideally something that can block out light and isn't too expensive. I've got 3x 3' by 5' window cutouts, 6x 4' by 5' window cutouts, and a 5' by 6'8" sliding glass door that I need to cover somehow. Checked out the wirecutter recommended blinds and it was like $880 plus tax for just the windows, plus $275 plus tax for the door. Are blinds just hella expensive or should I look around some more?

    For reference, the ones I was looking at:

    Window blinds:
    https://www.selectblinds.com/cellularshades/9-16-inch-cordless-blackout-shade.html

    Door blinds:
    https://www.selectblinds.com/verticalblinds/designer-panel-track-collection-for-sliding-doors.html

    SijLqhH.png
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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Yes, blinds are hella expensive.

    Another option is to buy fabric at a fabric store and ask a local dry cleaners to run hems and pockets for you.

    EncDoodmannCauldJebus314
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    I'll second blinds being expensive - it cost us a couple thousand to have blinds installed in our home. But it's worth it, as they can increase the insulation of the house, as well as allowing us to black out our master bedroom (my wife has issues with migraines, so this is essential.)

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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Any color recommendations? Classic white? I was looking at greys. All the walls and windows are white for what it's worth.

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  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    Depends on the look you're going for and their width - how many windows they're covering. If it's not like a full bay window, you can go for a subtle pattern if most of the other furnishings are solid colors.

    We also have two sheers for each window in the middle with pattern curtains on the ends. Let's you diffuse light during the day, then close up at night. We also have some cell shades from Lowes that are good and not super expensive.

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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Washer, dryer, and fridge arrived! Everything's mostly set up, other than I'll probably need to switch the door hinges on the fridge the other way. Also, I'm having trouble figuring out the drain cover in the wall for the washing machine. I guess there were tabs on it originally but they appear to have broken off. I have no idea how to open it or remove it or whatever for the washing machine drain hose.

    KGsphr2.jpg?1

    Any ideas? Should I just call a plumber?

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  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    It should be able to be knocked out, or just pulled off. I've never seen one that was vertical like that though, usually the drain is in between the hot and cold. Try getting a flat screwdriver around the edge of it, see if you can find a gap and pry it off?

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  • redfield85redfield85 Registered User regular
    We are looking to buy our first house and are going to view some places tomorrow. Yay, nervous!

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  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    redfield85 wrote: »
    We are looking to buy our first house and are going to view some places tomorrow. Yay, nervous!

    If you haven't already, talk over what is Required vs. Nice to Have vs Bonus. It's a business decision, but of courses a lot of emotions are often involved. Think about if you want a place ready to move in or if you want a place that needs some work. Pros and cons to both.

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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Woo, move in complete! Still got a couple of boxes worth of books and the food in the fridge/freezer to take over, but everything else is here! I have no idea where I'm gonna put all my kitchen stuff. It's a nightmare. So much stuff, so many cabinets, it's paralyzing.

    Also, the movers I'm pretty sure lost the power cable to my TV :| They're gonna check the truck on Monday, but I'm debating whether I should order another cable now just in case they don't find it. They said they brought it downstairs and it was by a box, but I've checked everything multiple times and can't find it :|

    Also want to reverse the doors on my fridge, though i'm debating whether it's actually worth the work or if I can just deal with opening the door into the kitchen instead of against the wall.

    Also need to install knobs on like a billion different cabinet doors. That's probably gonna be one of my days next weekend.

    Everything is so much work >.<

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    edited January 19
    Major tip: spend the ~$10-20 and get a template at HD/Lowe's for the cabinet hardware. That way everything lines up without you having to think about it.

    Also if it bothers you now, it'll likely always bother you, so take the time and change your fridge door before it's full of food.

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  • redfield85redfield85 Registered User regular
    edited January 19
    MichaelLC wrote: »
    redfield85 wrote: »
    We are looking to buy our first house and are going to view some places tomorrow. Yay, nervous!

    If you haven't already, talk over what is Required vs. Nice to Have vs Bonus. It's a business decision, but of courses a lot of emotions are often involved. Think about if you want a place ready to move in or if you want a place that needs some work. Pros and cons to both.

    Yea, we definitely have gone over that. Parking and 1.5 bathrooms are a must. Our place right now is HORRIBLE with parking and we only have one bathroom. And definitely move in ready.

    I think our current issue is we saw 3 houses yesterday. Only 1 was suitable for us and we liked it. We are also going on a week long cruise starting this Friday and the following Thurs-Sun I am gone on a trip just myself. We don't know if we should just go in for this house or look at others since we've only seen three. But if we do that, then we might miss out on the current only one we liked. But we also don't want to just jump at it because it is there and we are leaving on a trip soon.

    This house has also been on the market for 100+ days and the price seems to keep dropping, so I think our realtor is gonna find out why. That and knowing the situation with the neighbor's pool (do they have kids and will them being loud and obnoxious annoy us) are the only real issues we have with it honestly.

    edit: Oh, and I'm sure it is on both of our minds that we just want to get the fuck out of here because of our neighbors, but we obviously don't want to take a place just to leave immediately. But yea, that is definitely something that I am sure influences us to move quickly.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Don't get into the buyer's remorse/sunk cost head game. A house is just a house and there are hundreds of others.

    Also if you want "true" move in ready, expect a higher price point for the same offering and a bunch more competition.

    Speaking from my own experience, there is a lot you can do yourself with some research; and dealing with something for a few weeks or months won't matter if you're living there for years.

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  • redfield85redfield85 Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Don't get into the buyer's remorse/sunk cost head game. A house is just a house and there are hundreds of others.

    Also if you want "true" move in ready, expect a higher price point for the same offering and a bunch more competition.

    Speaking from my own experience, there is a lot you can do yourself with some research; and dealing with something for a few weeks or months won't matter if you're living there for years.

    When I say move in ready, I mean we might want to add a second sink in the bathroom or paint stuff and those kind of things. But they would be fine how they are until we would get around to it. I don't mean things are perfect and we won't have to fix anything. Heh.

    I think we are definitely aware of those head games and are kind of battling them, but are trying not to get too wrapped up in that for sure. I like this house, but I feel like I am supposed to get that overwhelming feeling of THIS IS IT that everybody says happens and I didn't immediately have that I think? I wouldn't be mad about getting this place. I already picture us living there. WHY IS THIS SO HARD?

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Ah, ok. So basically you don't want a full Property Brothers rehab project. Which; I don't blame you.

  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    You may never feel that. Same with partners; perfection is over rated.

    Yeah, move in ready varies. We looked at one places that the kitchen was in need of immediate demolition. Another was kind of dated but certainly livable as we updated each room.

    Varies by market and financials, but generally if you're looking at a place to live in many years, you'll want to find somewhere that meets your immediate/futyre needs and seems like a good growing community because you will likely want to sell at some point.

    The more you can tell your agent, the more they can help. Take a look at different styles of homes; colonial, Tudor, Cape Cod, etc, and see if some call out to you over others. As everything, market dependent; there may be only one style available around you.

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  • HeirHeir Registered User regular
    My wife and I are in the process of making an offer on a new home while trying to sell our current home. Also keeping a house staged with two young kids is super fun.

    I'm truly in hell.

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  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Aside from buying a shitload of humidifiers, anyone have a good way to make the house not so damn dry? The pellet stove is drying us right out and I feel terrible for my cats since I'm shocking them every time I pet them.

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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Richland, WARegistered User regular
    Welp, did a bunch more stuff this weekend. Started getting my kitchen sorted. Attempted to switch the door opening on the fridge, but we couldn't get the central hinge pin out (both my friend and I tried and got a lot of force on it, but any more and we were worried we'd rip the screws holding the whole hinge in place out). Ended up having to put it back on how it was before. Also mounted my tv on the wall, but it ended up being a couple inches higher than I probably would've liked. But fixing it would be another 2 holes in my wall, so I think I'll just live with it for now. It still looks good and if anything makes it easier for the 2nd row couch to see it. Called a plumber about the washer drain cap in the wall and they couldn't come yesterday but could potentially come today. Called em back to postpone it til Friday when I'm off. Then this weekend I can finish cleaning everything in the apartment so it's ready to turn back over, move the rest of the books I have there into my house, and finally mount the knobs on all my cabinets. I'll hit up Ace hardware and see if they have a template then, too. Should probably also pick up a fire extinguisher, since I just realized there isn't one in the house (so used to there already being one there).

    Also, first time doing showers and brushing teeth and whatnot in the house and realized that it takes like a full minute to get hot water to my bathroom. Kind of annoying but not really something I can do anything about any time soon.

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  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    Heir wrote: »
    My wife and I are in the process of making an offer on a new home while trying to sell our current home. Also keeping a house staged with two young kids is super fun.

    I'm truly in hell.

    Putting a bunch of stuff in temporary storage was our solution to this. Still, sucks though. And having to get out of the house for open houses and showings sucks.

    :so_raven:
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  • StormwatcherStormwatcher Blegh BlughRegistered User regular
    hi thread, so me and my wife been through the whole amazing roller coaster of emotions that is buying your home for the first time.
    After looking at a bunch of "almost ready to move" apartments and a ton of stories and some drama, we settled on a fixer upper, 47 year old apartment that was never remodeled or got any real maintenance.

    Of course we had our share of surprises; brazilian apartments are all brick and mortar, no drywalls or stuff like that. I'll post some pictures of the work later.

    We're having to rebuild all the pipes, wiring and resurface the parquet floors. Oh, and we're also replacing the old shitty wooden guillotine windows with aluminum. Right now we're at that excruciating phase; the big work is done, walls and pipes and wire passages, they're finishing all the kitchen and bathroom tiling and fixtures; painter is gonna go in and do some heavy work; we got the parquet guy and the kitchen/bathroom bespoke furniture guy on hold waiting for their turn. Money is running dangerously short, tho, but we can't really cut anything; everything we're doing can't really be done later after we move in.

    I honestly kinda wish we would keep being renters for a while, but hey, gotta rip that bandaid, and i'm pretty sure we're gonna do fine after everything is in the past.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Aside from buying a shitload of humidifiers, anyone have a good way to make the house not so damn dry? The pellet stove is drying us right out and I feel terrible for my cats since I'm shocking them every time I pet them.

    Your other option is a whole-house unit; though I'm not sure if you can tie one in to a pellet stove or if the hot air is too hot for a typical humidifier.


    @Stabbity Style have you checked YT or potentially the OEM's site for instructions on how to swap the door? They should also be able to tell you if swapping the door is even possible with that particular model.

    Heir
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