Homeowner/House Thread: It's going to cost how much, now?

1636466686975

Posts

  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Myiagros wrote: »
    Hello again house thread! I'm going back on the market for a new house at some point this year after 9+ years improving my farm. Not really something I want to do but broken relationships end up here.

    Positives - My original purchase at $220,000 is now in the appraisal range of $750,000-800,000 which means after sale and paying the bank back I should have close to $200K to start fresh and pay off my loans. When I bought the place all I had was debts so that will be a good change. I'll also be buying something closer to work which will cut down at least an hour of travel each day if I get in the right area.

    Negatives - Feeling like I wasn't even close to having this place where I wanted it to be before I was done here, having to give up on my grand plans really sucks. I'll also be going out into a sellers market, the cheapest place I can find is in the $350K range and that's for a townhouse or semi-detached. I might just sit on the sale money and rent for a while to see where the market goes, at 2% interest I'd bank $3-4K a year.

    Congratulations! Get paid! Also that sucks I'm sorry.

    With 200k down shouldn't you be looking in the 450-500k range? or are local taxes enough to keep you from doing that?

    Also don't time the market.

    Also it's becoming a buyers market in my estimation, start lowballing people on stuff that's been on the market for 1-3 months.

    Congrats! Sounds like you've done well! Make sure you account for capital gains tax. I believe single people have a 250k exemption, and you can also deduct the costs of improvements you've made... but still something to consider.

  • DoodmannDoodmann Registered User regular
    Cauld wrote: »
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Myiagros wrote: »
    Hello again house thread! I'm going back on the market for a new house at some point this year after 9+ years improving my farm. Not really something I want to do but broken relationships end up here.

    Positives - My original purchase at $220,000 is now in the appraisal range of $750,000-800,000 which means after sale and paying the bank back I should have close to $200K to start fresh and pay off my loans. When I bought the place all I had was debts so that will be a good change. I'll also be buying something closer to work which will cut down at least an hour of travel each day if I get in the right area.

    Negatives - Feeling like I wasn't even close to having this place where I wanted it to be before I was done here, having to give up on my grand plans really sucks. I'll also be going out into a sellers market, the cheapest place I can find is in the $350K range and that's for a townhouse or semi-detached. I might just sit on the sale money and rent for a while to see where the market goes, at 2% interest I'd bank $3-4K a year.

    Congratulations! Get paid! Also that sucks I'm sorry.

    With 200k down shouldn't you be looking in the 450-500k range? or are local taxes enough to keep you from doing that?

    Also don't time the market.

    Also it's becoming a buyers market in my estimation, start lowballing people on stuff that's been on the market for 1-3 months.

    Congrats! Sounds like you've done well! Make sure you account for capital gains tax. I believe single people have a 250k exemption, and you can also deduct the costs of improvements you've made... but still something to consider.

    I thought Capital Gains only kicks in over 500k and if you did not live in it as your primary residence or for under 2 years, but that might be a California thing.

    Whippy wrote: »
    nope nope nope nope abort abort talk about anime
    Torchlight | Steam | ART
  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    edited February 19
    So, my board gaming table is kind of tucked in the corner of my large basement and doesn't really have good lighting. There's a ceiling boob light a couple feet away from one of the corners of the table, so it's not like, dark, but it is kinda dim and less than ideal. I'm trying to think of some good ways to light it. Obviously, installing some sort of drop down light from the ceiling over the middle of the table is an option (though probably more expensive and permanent than I'm thinking for the meantime), but I also wanna avoid direct lighting on the table to prevent glare and whatnot. I was thinking I could get a floor lamp that points up and use that reflected/indirect light, but I don't know if that's my best option. Plus, I think most floor lamps that throw light at the ceiling are kinda ugly. Another option is maybe some China balls strung from the ceiling and plugged into an outlet somewhere? I don't know how effective they'd be at lighting, though, and I'd need to figure out mounting, running the wire, and finding LED's that are spaced properly between the balls (unless I got something that came wired together already, I guess). I wanna strike that balance between a harsh, overly bright light and something that doesn't really help light at all.

    Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions?

    Stabbity Style on
    SijLqhH.png
    Steam: stabbitystyle | uPlay: stabbitystyle | b.net: Stabbity#1528 | XBL: Stabbity Style | PSN: Stabbity_Style | Twitch: stabbitystyle
  • evilmrhenryevilmrhenry Registered User regular
    So, my board gaming table is kind of tucked in the corner of my large basement and doesn't really have good lighting. There's a ceiling boob light a couple feet away from one of the corners of the table, so it's not like, dark, but it is kinda dim and less than ideal. I'm trying to think of some good ways to light it. Obviously, installing some sort of drop down light from the ceiling over the middle of the table is an option (though probably more expensive and permanent than I'm thinking for the meantime), but I also wanna avoid direct lighting on the table to prevent glare and whatnot. I was thinking I could get a floor lamp that points up and use that reflected/indirect light, but I don't know if that's my best option. Plus, I think most floor lamps that throw light at the ceiling are kinda ugly. Another option is maybe some China balls strung from the ceiling and plugged into an outlet somewhere? I don't know how effective they'd be at lighting, though, and I'd need to figure out mounting, running the wire, and finding LED's that are spaced properly between the balls (unless I got something that came wired together already, I guess). I wanna strike that balance between a harsh, overly bright light and something that doesn't really help light at all.

    Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions?

    I'd see what bulbs you have installed in the ceiling light. We live in a age of really powerful lightbulbs, so you might be able to get a noticeable increase in light just by heading down to the store and seeing what's available with high lumens. Also, if the ceiling fixture only has 1-2 bulbs, you could replace it with something that has space for 3. Replacing a ceiling light fixture isn't that hard.

    ElvenshaeJebus314MichaelLCAbsoluteZero
  • MyiagrosMyiagros Registered User regular
    Cauld wrote: »
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Myiagros wrote: »
    Hello again house thread! I'm going back on the market for a new house at some point this year after 9+ years improving my farm. Not really something I want to do but broken relationships end up here.

    Positives - My original purchase at $220,000 is now in the appraisal range of $750,000-800,000 which means after sale and paying the bank back I should have close to $200K to start fresh and pay off my loans. When I bought the place all I had was debts so that will be a good change. I'll also be buying something closer to work which will cut down at least an hour of travel each day if I get in the right area.

    Negatives - Feeling like I wasn't even close to having this place where I wanted it to be before I was done here, having to give up on my grand plans really sucks. I'll also be going out into a sellers market, the cheapest place I can find is in the $350K range and that's for a townhouse or semi-detached. I might just sit on the sale money and rent for a while to see where the market goes, at 2% interest I'd bank $3-4K a year.

    Congratulations! Get paid! Also that sucks I'm sorry.

    With 200k down shouldn't you be looking in the 450-500k range? or are local taxes enough to keep you from doing that?

    Also don't time the market.

    Also it's becoming a buyers market in my estimation, start lowballing people on stuff that's been on the market for 1-3 months.

    Congrats! Sounds like you've done well! Make sure you account for capital gains tax. I believe single people have a 250k exemption, and you can also deduct the costs of improvements you've made... but still something to consider.

    I don't mind having a small place and while I could afford a mortgage in the $1200-1500 monthly range the lower the better. I'd likely only drop $75-100K on the down payment anyway to leave myself some emergency cash, maybe finally take a damn trip that I've been wanting to do for years!

    iRevert wrote: »
    Because if you're going to attempt to squeeze that big black monster into your slot you will need to be able to take at least 12 inches or else you're going to have a bad time...
    Steam: MyiagrosX27
  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    So, my board gaming table is kind of tucked in the corner of my large basement and doesn't really have good lighting. There's a ceiling boob light a couple feet away from one of the corners of the table, so it's not like, dark, but it is kinda dim and less than ideal. I'm trying to think of some good ways to light it. Obviously, installing some sort of drop down light from the ceiling over the middle of the table is an option (though probably more expensive and permanent than I'm thinking for the meantime), but I also wanna avoid direct lighting on the table to prevent glare and whatnot. I was thinking I could get a floor lamp that points up and use that reflected/indirect light, but I don't know if that's my best option. Plus, I think most floor lamps that throw light at the ceiling are kinda ugly. Another option is maybe some China balls strung from the ceiling and plugged into an outlet somewhere? I don't know how effective they'd be at lighting, though, and I'd need to figure out mounting, running the wire, and finding LED's that are spaced properly between the balls (unless I got something that came wired together already, I guess). I wanna strike that balance between a harsh, overly bright light and something that doesn't really help light at all.

    Anyway, any thoughts or suggestions?

    I'd see what bulbs you have installed in the ceiling light. We live in a age of really powerful lightbulbs, so you might be able to get a noticeable increase in light just by heading down to the store and seeing what's available with high lumens. Also, if the ceiling fixture only has 1-2 bulbs, you could replace it with something that has space for 3. Replacing a ceiling light fixture isn't that hard.

    Yeah check out Crees or any of the better LED bulbs with a high Color Rendering Index (CRI) - basically the quality of the light; 90 or so is the target. Thinking around 4000K color temp, since you may not want full daylight 5K?

    Other option that requires more work is a good LED shoplight. If you look for one with a good shade/diffuser, it shouldn't be too much glare. Maybe not super-stylish though. Plus slide is some have BT speakers for added ridiculousness. :)

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
  • CauldCauld Registered User regular
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Cauld wrote: »
    Doodmann wrote: »
    Myiagros wrote: »
    Hello again house thread! I'm going back on the market for a new house at some point this year after 9+ years improving my farm. Not really something I want to do but broken relationships end up here.

    Positives - My original purchase at $220,000 is now in the appraisal range of $750,000-800,000 which means after sale and paying the bank back I should have close to $200K to start fresh and pay off my loans. When I bought the place all I had was debts so that will be a good change. I'll also be buying something closer to work which will cut down at least an hour of travel each day if I get in the right area.

    Negatives - Feeling like I wasn't even close to having this place where I wanted it to be before I was done here, having to give up on my grand plans really sucks. I'll also be going out into a sellers market, the cheapest place I can find is in the $350K range and that's for a townhouse or semi-detached. I might just sit on the sale money and rent for a while to see where the market goes, at 2% interest I'd bank $3-4K a year.

    Congratulations! Get paid! Also that sucks I'm sorry.

    With 200k down shouldn't you be looking in the 450-500k range? or are local taxes enough to keep you from doing that?

    Also don't time the market.

    Also it's becoming a buyers market in my estimation, start lowballing people on stuff that's been on the market for 1-3 months.

    Congrats! Sounds like you've done well! Make sure you account for capital gains tax. I believe single people have a 250k exemption, and you can also deduct the costs of improvements you've made... but still something to consider.

    I thought Capital Gains only kicks in over 500k and if you did not live in it as your primary residence or for under 2 years, but that might be a California thing.

    My quick googling says it's 500k for a married couple. 250k/person for your primary residence.

    Doodmannzepherin
  • DelzhandDelzhand Hard to miss. Registered User regular
    Don't paint latex over oil paint, folks.

    56cztvdnk8n3.jpg

    Steam|FFXIV|Switch SW-3472-4893-0802
    ElvenshaeBlackDragon480AbsoluteZeroSporkAndrewDaimarSteel AngelStabbity StyleMichaelLCBullheaddispatch.oShadowfirewebguy20IncenjucarKruite
  • DaimarDaimar A Million Feet Tall of Awesome Registered User regular
    Delzhand wrote: »
    Don't paint latex over oil paint, folks.

    True, though there are a couple of higher end latex paints that are formulated to be able to paint over oil, or on glass or anything you want. I used to work at an interior decorating store and General Paint's Kitchen and Bath paint was able to go over oil paint so I imagine every brand has something similar.

    steam_sig.png
    twitch.tv/kragaar
  • DelzhandDelzhand Hard to miss. Registered User regular
    edited February 21
    I'm actually not mad at this at all, because I realized that even after painting them white, I still don't like them at all. They're from the 1960s and solid wood, so it'd be silly to rebuild them, so what I'm gonna do is convert them to shaker cabinets by adding stiles/rails and filling out the beveled edge with wood putty. I'm gonna sand them and repaint them as part of that, so if anything the fact that it's peeling means I can take off a layer of paint with ease.

    Delzhand on
    Steam|FFXIV|Switch SW-3472-4893-0802
    ElvenshaeBullheadIncenjucar
  • SyngyneSyngyne Registered User regular
    Drilling question: I need to mount a safe to a wall stud. If I'm using, say, a 1/4" lag screw, should the pilot hole I drill in the stud also be 1/4", or should it be slightly smaller diameter?

    5gsowHm.png
  • DevoutlyApatheticDevoutlyApathetic Registered User regular
    Yes, definitely smaller. The nominal size is the size of the shank before they cut the threads into it. If you drill a 1/4" pilot you won't have any material into the threads. You'd have a slip fit safe mount.

    zepherina5ehrenAbsoluteZeroSyngyneElvenshaeStabbity StyleShadowfireIncenjucar
  • AbsoluteZeroAbsoluteZero The new film by Quentin Koopantino Registered User regular
    I always just eyeball it holding the screw or bolt against different drill bits until I find one that hides the shank but not the threads. Figure that's close enough. I'm sure there's a "right way" to do it.

    DaenrisAiouaHappylilElfElvenshaedjmitchellaJebus314chrishallett83
  • That_GuyThat_Guy I don't wanna be that guy Registered User regular
    Ehh, pre drilling holes is overrated. I just use self tapping screws.

    camo_sig.png
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    I always just eyeball it holding the screw or bolt against different drill bits until I find one that hides the shank but not the threads. Figure that's close enough. I'm sure there's a "right way" to do it.

    I do this, too. In this case, a 1/4" lag screw would probably use a 3/16" or 1/8" drill bit. You just want to get a good percentage of the material out of the way so the threads are doing most of the work.

  • DevoutlyApatheticDevoutlyApathetic Registered User regular
    Unsurprisingly there are like actual answers and it involves just how hard your wood is:
    https://www.fastenermart.com/lag-bolts.html

    Though I'd agree if you just used like a 3/16th you'd probably be fine.

    Shadowfire
  • The WolfmanThe Wolfman Registered User regular
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    "The sausage of Green Earth explodes with flavor like the cannon of culinary delight."
    PSN: TheWolfman64 3DS/Pokemon Y: 0774-4614-4065/NNID: the_wolfman64
    AbsoluteZeroHappylilElfwebguy20
  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    Unsurprisingly there are like actual answers and it involves just how hard your wood is:
    https://www.fastenermart.com/lag-bolts.html

    Though I'd agree if you just used like a 3/16th you'd probably be fine.

    Hey-o!

    :so_raven:
    Jebus314DelzhandDevoutlyApathetic
  • MichaelLCMichaelLC In what furnace was thy brain? ChicagoRegistered User regular
    Unsurprisingly there are like actual answers and it involves just how hard your wood is:
    https://www.fastenermart.com/lag-bolts.html

    Though I'd agree if you just used like a 3/16th you'd probably be fine.

    That's a fiesty site; "We have what they don't." I like it.
    Reminds me of Binnys Beverage Depot; "If you can’t find it at Binny’s, it’s probably not worth drinking"

    "Never believe management about anything anywhere." -Aistan
  • SyngyneSyngyne Registered User regular
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    5gsowHm.png
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
    schussa5ehren
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    I really like the Walabot DIY - it's a scanner that hooks into your smartphone, and uses radar to scan the interior of the wall.

    XBL: Nox Aeternum / PSN: NoxAeternum / NN:NoxAeternum / Steam: noxaeternum
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    I really like the Walabot DIY - it's a scanner that hooks into your smartphone, and uses radar to scan the interior of the wall.

    Ew.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
    a5ehren
  • OptyOpty Registered User regular
    My rule of thumb for predrilling holes has been half the bolt size, so 1/8" for a 1/4" bolt, for example. Sounds like that might be too small in most cases based on that chart.

  • DelzhandDelzhand Hard to miss. Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    I really like the Walabot DIY - it's a scanner that hooks into your smartphone, and uses radar to scan the interior of the wall.

    Ew.

    I dunno, I see the appeal of a device which saves the cost of a built in high res screen given that most of us walk around with high res screens in our pockets all day.

    My stud finder just has 3 LEDs and it sucks ass trying to interpret what it's telling me.

    Steam|FFXIV|Switch SW-3472-4893-0802
    ElvenshaeBullheadDaenris
  • Jebus314Jebus314 Registered User regular
    Delzhand wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    I really like the Walabot DIY - it's a scanner that hooks into your smartphone, and uses radar to scan the interior of the wall.

    Ew.

    I dunno, I see the appeal of a device which saves the cost of a built in high res screen given that most of us walk around with high res screens in our pockets all day.

    My stud finder just has 3 LEDs and it sucks ass trying to interpret what it's telling me.

    Look, finding an actual STUD is a tough job. I mean I guess you can just go off of how HARD it is, but that just doesn't seem reliable these days. I think we all know the only real method is to just DRILL everything in sight, until you find something that FEELS GOOD.

    "The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
    ElvenshaeExtreaminatus
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Delzhand wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Syngyne wrote: »
    You mean you're not supposed to just drill the screw itself into the wood? :)

    I have spent too much time being asked to put screws in various places around the house... by friggin' hand. The happiest day of my life was when we finally bought a cordless drill.

    I’m paranoid about splitting the stud. :p

    If you split the stud I'll give you ten bucks. I've never seen it happen. Throw an eighth inch bit in and send the lag bolt chasing after it. Just make sure you have a good stud finder. My work one is crap, I've been making do with a magnet lately while I hunt for a decent replacement.

    I really like the Walabot DIY - it's a scanner that hooks into your smartphone, and uses radar to scan the interior of the wall.

    Ew.

    I dunno, I see the appeal of a device which saves the cost of a built in high res screen given that most of us walk around with high res screens in our pockets all day.

    My stud finder just has 3 LEDs and it sucks ass trying to interpret what it's telling me.

    Look, finding an actual STUD is a tough job. I mean I guess you can just go off of how HARD it is, but that just doesn't seem reliable these days. I think we all know the only real method is to just DRILL everything in sight, until you find something that FEELS GOOD.

    I've been training a guy, and the first time we mounted a TV together I put my stud finder on my own chest, hit the button and said "oh hey, found a stud."

    But then the damn thing didn't turn on and I was sad. My partner had to go out to the van because he was laughing so hard.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
    Al_watElvenshaeAbsoluteZerodjmitchellachromdomHappylilElfMNC DoverBanzai5150MugsleyDevoutlyApatheticManning'sEquationGnizmoCarpychrishallett83Captain InertiaQanamilMvrckN1tSt4lkerSatanic JesusCptHamiltonSporkAndrewExtreaminatusDaenrisa5ehrenAimCampydavidsdurions
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    edited February 22
    @Shadowfire I was going to PM you but this is probably good general info. I got a soundbar for my LG TV. Do you recommend a specific brand of mounting bracket so I can hang it with my TV? The TV is already on the wall and I don't want to drill more holes.

    I found some generic stuff on Amazon but wasn't sure if I should just go with that.

    Mugsley on
  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    Look at all of you with your fancy high tech stud finders, or magnets, or knocking and listening for hollow spaces. In my house (110 years old) I have plaster and both wood and metal lathe. So I essentially have no way of detecting studs whatsoever beyond drilling pilot holes and sticking a piece of wire in and hope I hit something. At least I know my studs are 16" OC. Some of these old places played fast and loose and went non-standard 18" or 24".

    I mostly really just try not to hang things on the wall at this point.

    Doodmann
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    You've got wood and metal lathe, so the only thing you hang that should need a stud would be a TV. (yes I'm being facetious)

  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    edited February 22
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Shadowfire I was going to PM you but this is probably good general info. I got a soundbar for my LG TV. Do you recommend a specific brand of mounting bracket so I can hang it with my TV? The TV is already on the wall and I don't want to drill more holes.

    I found some generic stuff on Amazon but wasn't sure if I should just go with that.

    You're either taking the TV off the wall to hang a bracket from the mount, or you're punching a couple holes in the wall. Either is fine, just depends on the amount of work you want to do.

    If you're talking the TV off and using a soundbar bracket I highly recommend the one from rocketfish. I use it all the time and since it was redesigned I've never had a problem with one slipping or keeping centered. They're only like $40.

    Quick note, I work for Best Buy so it's one of the company's products. But I don't make commission and could care less where you buy your stuff. I just find them easy to work with.

    Edit: I just realized the old one is still floating around out there. You want this one.

    https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-universal-soundbar-mounting-system-black/6354301.p?skuId=6354301

    Shadowfire on
    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    You've got wood and metal lathe, so the only thing you hang that should need a stud would be a TV. (yes I'm being facetious)

    Honestly, it's not wrong. If you're hanging pictures, a decent picture hanger into the lathe is all you really need. Heavier stuff should use anchors and I find the zinc ones work really well.

    That said, half decent stud finders will have a deep scan mode that should be able to tell the difference between lathe and studs.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • OneAngryPossumOneAngryPossum Registered User regular
    The half-finished basement has been an incredible lab for testing what my stud finder thinks is going on inside my walls.

    MichaelLCElvenshaeSageinaRage
  • Captain InertiaCaptain Inertia Registered User regular
    Fack!

    Got home from visiting SoCal and I hate my house:
    Cat missed us and acts out by peeing on the dog bed
    Little dog missed us and acts out by dribbling pee on the carpet
    Shower head missed us and acts out by just breaking and leaking everywhere

    So getting a new dog bed, new bath fixtures and maybe also new carpet

    I guess it’s a sign to pull the trigger and just move to SoCal to start over with a fresh house

    Doodmann
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    Probably a fresh dog and cat too.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Probably a fresh dog and cat too.

    At least try dry cleaning first.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Probably a fresh dog and cat too.

    At least try dry cleaning first.

    They charge extra for animals

    Captain Inertia
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Shadowfire I was going to PM you but this is probably good general info. I got a soundbar for my LG TV. Do you recommend a specific brand of mounting bracket so I can hang it with my TV? The TV is already on the wall and I don't want to drill more holes.

    I found some generic stuff on Amazon but wasn't sure if I should just go with that.

    You're either taking the TV off the wall to hang a bracket from the mount, or you're punching a couple holes in the wall. Either is fine, just depends on the amount of work you want to do.

    If you're talking the TV off and using a soundbar bracket I highly recommend the one from rocketfish. I use it all the time and since it was redesigned I've never had a problem with one slipping or keeping centered. They're only like $40.

    Quick note, I work for Best Buy so it's one of the company's products. But I don't make commission and could care less where you buy your stuff. I just find them easy to work with.

    Edit: I just realized the old one is still floating around out there. You want this one.

    https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rocketfish-universal-soundbar-mounting-system-black/6354301.p?skuId=6354301

    I initially had my eye on this:
    https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DW1XOCY/

    I'm assuming your link is probably more robust since it actually has the soundbar sitting on something.

    And, yes, the plan is to take the tv off the wall bracket and have the sound bar mounted to the tv (at least that's the plan so far)

  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    I just used one of those! They're... fine. The one thing that I've found about them is that over time the soundbar can start to sag on one side or both. Use some zip ties to snug the arms into place so they can't droop over time and you should be fine.

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
    Mugsley
  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    Mugsley wrote: »
    You've got wood and metal lathe, so the only thing you hang that should need a stud would be a TV. (yes I'm being facetious)

    Honestly, it's not wrong. If you're hanging pictures, a decent picture hanger into the lathe is all you really need. Heavier stuff should use anchors and I find the zinc ones work really well.

    That said, half decent stud finders will have a deep scan mode that should be able to tell the difference between lathe and studs.

    Yeah, pretty much everything has been fine so far. We don't have a fireplace, but the wife is really missing a mantel for her knicknacks in the living room so I've been tasked with creating a faux mantel shelf, which is definitely gonna require studs.

    And before I knew that I had metal lathe, I bought a top of the line Zircon stud finder, hoping to use either deep scan or metal scanning (for nails). Neither work at all. My outside walls might as well be a brick wall for all that thing can sense. It also doesn't help that in some rooms instead of tearing down the plaster they just threw 3/8" drywall over the plaster.

Sign In or Register to comment.