Homeowner/House Thread: It's going to cost how much, now?

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  • zagdrobzagdrob Registered User regular
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Because rates are great and all that shit, I'm being persuaded I should consider doing a refinance to a shorter term mortgage, which might save me a decent chunk of change in the long run.

    Does anyone know what the correct way is to rate shop from several places to get a refinance rate? There seems to be quite a bit of variability and I can't tell at which point you're getting useful/non-marketing information and if you can do that at all PRIOR to paying for them to run the full background pull and write you a rate guarantee.

    I’m doing this right now too. Refi high five!

    So far I’ve just been going to banks I already have accounts with (local credit union and BofA) banks other people have said good things about (other local credit unions), and a few random online places (better mortgage, rocket mortgage).

    They all did a soft pull of my credit rating right off the bat. I mostly just filled out some application sheets with things like home value, loan value, income, savings, etc. Pretty much all of it I just put in values that were close enough (no verification paperwork yet). Nobody has asked for any money yet.

    Online places I got rate offers right away (although they are presumably contingent on them being able to verify the numbers I gave them).

    Banks have all called me to ask for more information (have not yet seen a rate). I will be calling them back this week, but I will not be paying any money without seeing at least a rate estimate first.

    Major thing to look out for is closing costs. Online places were around $1-3k in closing costs. They also offered to give me credit towards the closing costs if I took a worse rate (basically negative points).

    One thing I’m currently trying to figure out, before I go further, is if the inevitable home value assessment will significantly increase my taxes since places like Zillow are saying my home is worth a lot more than when I bought it. This could have a pretty big affect on whether the refi is worth it or not.

    A refinance shouldn't cause a tax reassessment unless you are doing something really screwy. There isn't an ownership change or anything like that.

    Elvenshae
  • DarkewolfeDarkewolfe Registered User regular
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Because rates are great and all that shit, I'm being persuaded I should consider doing a refinance to a shorter term mortgage, which might save me a decent chunk of change in the long run.

    Does anyone know what the correct way is to rate shop from several places to get a refinance rate? There seems to be quite a bit of variability and I can't tell at which point you're getting useful/non-marketing information and if you can do that at all PRIOR to paying for them to run the full background pull and write you a rate guarantee.

    I’m doing this right now too. Refi high five!

    So far I’ve just been going to banks I already have accounts with (local credit union and BofA) banks other people have said good things about (other local credit unions), and a few random online places (better mortgage, rocket mortgage).

    They all did a soft pull of my credit rating right off the bat. I mostly just filled out some application sheets with things like home value, loan value, income, savings, etc. Pretty much all of it I just put in values that were close enough (no verification paperwork yet). Nobody has asked for any money yet.

    Online places I got rate offers right away (although they are presumably contingent on them being able to verify the numbers I gave them).

    Banks have all called me to ask for more information (have not yet seen a rate). I will be calling them back this week, but I will not be paying any money without seeing at least a rate estimate first.

    Major thing to look out for is closing costs. Online places were around $1-3k in closing costs. They also offered to give me credit towards the closing costs if I took a worse rate (basically negative points).

    One thing I’m currently trying to figure out, before I go further, is if the inevitable home value assessment will significantly increase my taxes since places like Zillow are saying my home is worth a lot more than when I bought it. This could have a pretty big affect on whether the refi is worth it or not.

    Did you call and speak to someone to get this, or go through an online app? I started applying for what I thought was a soft pull with one of the banks I'm with, but then they were like "Ok pay for us to pull your credit report and also give us copies of your w-2, etc." so I figured I was on the wrong course.

    What is this I don't even.
  • N1tSt4lkerN1tSt4lker Registered User regular
    Any recommendations on an edger? I've been trying to do the job with a string trimmer but it suuuuuucks.

    I have a Ryobi cordless edger and I love it.

    AbsoluteZero
  • Jebus314Jebus314 Registered User regular
    edited July 28
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Jebus314 wrote: »
    Darkewolfe wrote: »
    Because rates are great and all that shit, I'm being persuaded I should consider doing a refinance to a shorter term mortgage, which might save me a decent chunk of change in the long run.

    Does anyone know what the correct way is to rate shop from several places to get a refinance rate? There seems to be quite a bit of variability and I can't tell at which point you're getting useful/non-marketing information and if you can do that at all PRIOR to paying for them to run the full background pull and write you a rate guarantee.

    I’m doing this right now too. Refi high five!

    So far I’ve just been going to banks I already have accounts with (local credit union and BofA) banks other people have said good things about (other local credit unions), and a few random online places (better mortgage, rocket mortgage).

    They all did a soft pull of my credit rating right off the bat. I mostly just filled out some application sheets with things like home value, loan value, income, savings, etc. Pretty much all of it I just put in values that were close enough (no verification paperwork yet). Nobody has asked for any money yet.

    Online places I got rate offers right away (although they are presumably contingent on them being able to verify the numbers I gave them).

    Banks have all called me to ask for more information (have not yet seen a rate). I will be calling them back this week, but I will not be paying any money without seeing at least a rate estimate first.

    Major thing to look out for is closing costs. Online places were around $1-3k in closing costs. They also offered to give me credit towards the closing costs if I took a worse rate (basically negative points).

    One thing I’m currently trying to figure out, before I go further, is if the inevitable home value assessment will significantly increase my taxes since places like Zillow are saying my home is worth a lot more than when I bought it. This could have a pretty big affect on whether the refi is worth it or not.

    Did you call and speak to someone to get this, or go through an online app? I started applying for what I thought was a soft pull with one of the banks I'm with, but then they were like "Ok pay for us to pull your credit report and also give us copies of your w-2, etc." so I figured I was on the wrong course.

    So far everything has been an online application. I clicked on whatever button mentioned home loans until it said start application, then I filled out whatever details they asked for, and hit submit (usually took like 10-15 minutes to fill out). Of course the actual banks have all called and said they need more information and/or they want to talk to me about the process. So I'll report back later if they are going to ask for payment or other documents.

    Only ones that gave me rates already where the online only places (I did better mortgage and rocket mortgage). At which point I realized I probably need to make some spreadsheets to see what my break even point would be for different closing costs and different rate reductions (I'm not planning on owning this house forever, will probably sell in like 5-10 years).

    Jebus314 on
    "The world is a mess, and I just need to rule it" - Dr Horrible
  • CarpyCarpy Registered User regular
    edited July 28
    Daenris wrote: »
    Any recommendations on an edger? I've been trying to do the job with a string trimmer but it suuuuuucks.

    We might have different thresholds for good edging, but I just use my black and decker cordless string trimmer that has a shaft that rotates to do edging and it works well enough for me. Are you using a trimmer like that, or just trying to hold a string trimmer sideways to do it?

    Mine also rotates for edging but it burns through trimmer line extremely quickly doing that and the trimmer head almost never automatically feeds more line like it's supposed to when used in that configuration. So I have to stop, disassemble the head and manually pull out more string every 2 minutes. I've tried a few different trimmer lines in there but it's always the same. I feel like I need something that has an actual blade for this job.

    Back when I had a lawn/sidewalk that needed edging a good manual rotary edger worked great. The first pass took some effort but after that as long as I hit it every couple weeks it was real easy to keep it looking clean.

    Carpy on
  • QuidQuid I don't... what... hnnng Registered User regular
    “We do have a credit card option but it does have a % fee.”

    *does math*

    “Yeah I ain’t paying $230 for the same effort it takes to buy a pack of gum. I’ll go pick up a cashier’s check.”

    All in all we’re out ~$7,600 but we no longer have to worry about a flooded basement.

    NINJA EDIT: Turns out he sent us the invoice that included the fee. He came back to let me know I overpaid and gave me cash back to cover the difference.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Quid wrote: »
    “We do have a credit card option but it does have a % fee.”

    *does math*

    “Yeah I ain’t paying $230 for the same effort it takes to buy a pack of gum. I’ll go pick up a cashier’s check.”

    All in all we’re out ~$7,600 but we no longer have to worry about a flooded basement.

    NINJA EDIT: Turns out he sent us the invoice that included the fee. He came back to let me know I overpaid and gave me cash back to cover the difference.

    FWIW, the credit card companies charge a % fee so the contractor is just passing that fee on to you.

    Also I just find it weird and a little uncomfortable paying that much via cashier's check and it not being a property closing.

    Doodmann
  • zepherinzepherin Registered User regular
    My yard slopes hard, but also slightly towards our home, so I just need to get some distance for the water to disperse more evenly and further into the yard itself for gravity to do it’s work. Right now it comes out away from the house, some runs back towards the house, some out into the yard.

    Didn’t realize how pop-up drains work, that might be my end solution. I guess if it’s closed off it’s not a problem that there would be residual standing water in the pipe? Or am I missing an element of how they work?
    Generally pop up drains move the water from one are of the lawn to the a different discharge point. You might want to go with a french drain which pulls in the water and slowly leaches it out into the soil. It's roughly the same amount of effort, but I think you'll get a better result.

  • QuidQuid I don't... what... hnnng Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Quid wrote: »
    “We do have a credit card option but it does have a % fee.”

    *does math*

    “Yeah I ain’t paying $230 for the same effort it takes to buy a pack of gum. I’ll go pick up a cashier’s check.”

    All in all we’re out ~$7,600 but we no longer have to worry about a flooded basement.

    NINJA EDIT: Turns out he sent us the invoice that included the fee. He came back to let me know I overpaid and gave me cash back to cover the difference.

    FWIW, the credit card companies charge a % fee so the contractor is just passing that fee on to you.

    Also I just find it weird and a little uncomfortable paying that much via cashier's check and it not being a property closing.

    Beats the original deck that cost $12,000 >>

    I got really lucky with per diem that year.

  • redfield85redfield85 Registered User regular
    Two things today.

    So, was gonna crawl under the deck out back to fill the old concrete step cracks (between them and the house) with steel wool. After sweeping a little under there, it seems like said crack is....just all along the base of the house as well (between the concrete and the house). Any recommendations for a stop gap to fill presumably the whole back of the house along there? Haven't used "mason" stuff before.

    2nd thing. We have a bunch of small holes in the backyard. Last time I mowed I noticed one. When I was out back dealing with the crack stuff, I walked on the lawn and noticed significantly more holes (seemingly). Thoughts on what that could be? I didn't think there was dug up dirt around the holes and they weren't big enough for rabbits.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    The holes are likely squirrels looking for buried seeds or potentially those hornets that lays eggs in cicadas.

    For the crack, get a caulk gun and run a bead along the whole house, in the crack. It fills the gap and is flexible. If there's no specific "outdoor" formula you can find, get bathroom caulk since it can handle moisture. You don't need any sort of cement mixture just because it's masonry

  • QuidQuid I don't... what... hnnng Registered User regular
    Oh, squirrels would make sense. They dig up holes all over my garden and don’t refill them.

  • cncaudatacncaudata Registered User regular
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    PSN: Broodax- battle.net: broodax#1163
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

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  • cncaudatacncaudata Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    PSN: Broodax- battle.net: broodax#1163
    BullheadElvenshae
  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

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  • QanamilQanamil life cheated us all and i'm full of angst Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    I'm sure if it's freshly built it won't be an issue, but feel like I would give a good look at all the plumbing seals and such. Maybe look at the main line from house to city sewer if possible, but only because that's the big issue with the house I bought (it settled such that it goes up/down at each joint and pools water in the lower sections, etc).

  • IcemopperIcemopper Registered User regular
    RE: holes in the yard, it could be any number of creatures from what I've seen. I have a few quarter-sized holes in my yard too, and I'm not sure I know exactly what the cause is yet. This website might help tell you more.

  • evilmrhenryevilmrhenry Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Take pictures, so you know what things look like inside the walls in a few years if you need to make changes.

    DoodmannQanamilAbsoluteZeroShadowfireAimMichaelLCPhoenix-DzagdrobBullheadcncaudataHappylilElfElvenshaeMvrckFoolOnTheHill
  • KruiteKruite Registered User regular
    Just had some friends come over to quote for a job; redoing the master bath.

    Hopefully it is not "murder me" priced

  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    I went to Lowe's yesterday and they had no pressure treated lumber. Literally, none, just empty racks. Mill shutdowns because of covid and the Canadian border closing are causing a massive shortage. They said it'll probably be October before it even starts to recover.

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  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

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  • AngelHedgieAngelHedgie Registered User regular
    edited July 29
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

    Well, not every run needs to be Cat7 - the cameras definitely can be Cat6 or even 5e. But if I was having my house run today, I'd have the backbone runs done in Cat7 just for futureproofing.

    Edit: But yes, running wire for surround sound is worth it as well. I'd have it set for 5.1 at least, and preferably either 5.1.2 or 7.1.

    AngelHedgie on
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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

    Well, not every run needs to be Cat7 - the cameras definitely can be Cat6 or even 5e. But if I was having my house run today, I'd have the backbone runs done in Cat7 just for futureproofing.

    Edit: But yes, running wire for surround sound is worth it as well. I'd have it set for 5.1 at least, and preferably either 5.1.2 or 7.1.

    Honestly, I don't think it's that bad to run Cat6 or Cat6A now. It'll be good for the foreseeable future, and if it comes time that you actually need to replace it, replacing the cables is waaaay less of a hassle than running new cable.

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  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    External sockets and lights. Think about everywhere you might want to plug in a lawn mower or whatever, and where you want external lighting.

    As others have said, get it wired for Ethernet. I had an opportunity to do this with a house reno and didn't as the contractor was pro doing wireless everything which has been a mistake.

    :so_raven:
    zagdrobBullheadAbsoluteZero
  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    How else will you discover wires run randomly through walls if you don't cut holes in them to run your own wires?

    Jebus314
  • schussschuss Registered User regular
    Also see if they can insulate to a higher spec and get better doors and insulate between floors. Noise reduction and heat/cold retention is great

    zagdrobBullheadchr1sh4ll3ttb3Jebus314
  • zagdrobzagdrob Registered User regular
    schuss wrote: »
    Also see if they can insulate to a higher spec and get better doors and insulate between floors. Noise reduction and heat/cold retention is great

    We redid our basement over the winter and I framed our air distribution in with 2x3 that I put a non-stop drop ceiling around.

    Just running the 2x3 frame and tying it into our existing joists - to say nothing of the noise absorbent ceiling - has cut the squeaks and creaks down by an incredible amount and firmed up our whole house.

    Not going to do much for new construction, but the more things solidly tied together the quieter and stronger things will be.

    Granted, local building codes might have you doing hurricane ties or weird earthquake resistant stuff anyway.

  • cncaudatacncaudata Registered User regular
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Take pictures, so you know what things look like inside the walls in a few years if you need to make changes.

    This is a great idea and I am stupid for not thinking of it.

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    FoolOnTheHill
  • electricitylikesmeelectricitylikesme Registered User regular
    zagdrob wrote: »
    schuss wrote: »
    Also see if they can insulate to a higher spec and get better doors and insulate between floors. Noise reduction and heat/cold retention is great

    We redid our basement over the winter and I framed our air distribution in with 2x3 that I put a non-stop drop ceiling around.

    Just running the 2x3 frame and tying it into our existing joists - to say nothing of the noise absorbent ceiling - has cut the squeaks and creaks down by an incredible amount and firmed up our whole house.

    Not going to do much for new construction, but the more things solidly tied together the quieter and stronger things will be.

    Granted, local building codes might have you doing hurricane ties or weird earthquake resistant stuff anyway.

    The house me and Bulgarian girl bought recently is, like everything in Sydney, pre-everything in it's build. Last weekend we finally got around to filling in all the old ventilation holes in the bricks.

    What a difference. Even the relatively leaky basement now is actually way warmer, and the air conditioner is not working full power the whole time. My overall mood has improved a lot too - turns out when your constantly feeling a chill everywhere in your house, it's kind of miserable!

  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    Oh, and a house buying tip for anyone who might be buying a house in the fall or winter. Find out what kind of trees are on the property. We bought our house in the winter and only discovered later that the two tall trees out front (on city property) are linden trees which are super prone to Aphids. This means that the Aphids are basically shitting a steady stream of partially digested sap all over the front lawn and any vehicles parked in front of the house for several months in the summer. This stuff is a super pain to clean off the car.

    :so_raven:
  • HappylilElfHappylilElf Registered User regular
    I went to Lowe's yesterday and they had no pressure treated lumber. Literally, none, just empty racks. Mill shutdowns because of covid and the Canadian border closing are causing a massive shortage. They said it'll probably be October before it even starts to recover.

    We need our fence repaired (well, at this point entirely replaced tbh) and the best contractor here is flat out of wood. Like they build their own panels (because they're hurricane rated which actually isn't as absurd as you'd think in the upper midwest) but despite buying up everything they could from their suppliers at the start of the pandemic? With the windstorms in the last couple of months they're literally out of wood.

    Which means the only thing we can go with is vinyl and ok great it's way less maintenance which I'm a fan of but it's also much more expensive.

    The good news is if we can afford it the fence has a 50 year warranty (that transfers to new owners if the house is sold within 10 years) but the bad news is we're probably looking at between 7-8k to have them replace our fence and with all of the other expenses my roommates have dealt with recently I don't know if that's in the cards. I'm thinking we may end up having to go buy some stainless steel rods and chicken wire so that we can at least patch the fence enough that the dog can be let out without needing supervision.

  • redfield85redfield85 Registered User regular
    Our oven seems to have crapped the bed. Our green beans got toasted yesterday on a regular temp. And then it wouldn't shut off. We had to flip the breaker for it. FUN.

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  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

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  • SeptusSeptus Registered User regular
    Solar panels installed! Now I just need to wait like... a month for the inspection to get them turned on.

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  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    You'd drill a hole through a concrete and have a drainage pipe run underneath the walk and gravel and drain into the lawn somewhere. I'm surprised they aren't having the downspout on the corner next to the garage door.

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  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    The "best" option is to run a PVC drain under the walk, but that would require breaking up the walk or at least cutting a channel in it. Letting it drain over the walk is the cheaper and arguably more practical option.

    You could try directing the downspout to spill down the driveway instead but that's up to you if it's a better option.

  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    You'd drill a hole through a concrete and have a drainage pipe run underneath the walk and gravel and drain into the lawn somewhere. I'm surprised they aren't having the downspout on the corner next to the garage door.

    The driveway goes down into my house from the street, so if it was there, it would just pool in the little dip the driveway makes before coming back up into my house. Which is another thing I need to address at some point. I dunno how much it costs to get a drain across a driveway, hopefully not too much.
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Welp, got an estimate back for gutters. Gonna be about $1800 with tax, which is about what I was expecting (I was thinking a bit under $2k, so that tracks). The only thing I'm kind of sketch on is one of the downspouts comes down on the walkway to my front door. I get why they're gonna do it that way, looking at the area I'm not sure there's really any other options.

    sMTTKd6.png

    It's the gutter covering that slope above the walkway to the door. The downspout will be on the right side by that corner. Ideally it'd go across somehow, but I'm not sure how it'd work going across above the doorway, I guess. Having the downspout there is better than not having gutter there at all, though. Idk

    The "best" option is to run a PVC drain under the walk, but that would require breaking up the walk or at least cutting a channel in it. Letting it drain over the walk is the cheaper and arguably more practical option.

    You could try directing the downspout to spill down the driveway instead but that's up to you if it's a better option.

    Yeah, that'd probably be a good option. If I ever have someone out to do a drain across my driveway, that'd probably be something I'd have them look at while they're at it. Might be kinda sketchy cause I think there's some yard sprinkler pipe somewhere in that gravel, too, though.

    SijLqhH.png
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  • SeñorAmorSeñorAmor !!! Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

    $55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.

    Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.

    Stabbity Style
  • Stabbity StyleStabbity Style Warning: Mothership Reporting Kennewick, WARegistered User regular
    SeñorAmor wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    cncaudata wrote: »
    Building a new house (i.e. someone is building it for me). About to do a walkthrough in a few days to look at roughed-in electrical and plumbing.

    What should I look for that I haven't thought of already?

    Have you had the electrician pull Ethernet as well?

    Yes, I've got data pulled to all three floors, multiple drops by the TV/gaming area and in the office.

    Make sure they used at least Cat6, if not Cat7. Also, if you're thinking about external cameras, you'll want to get PoE drops to where they'll be placed. It's best to do all this now, while the walls are open.

    A spool of Cat6 can be had for $55ish. Cat7 is like $350 for the same length. There's little need for that kind of boost at seven times the price, especially for IP cameras.

    Though if we're talking about spools of wiring... I'd throw some speaker wires in the walls of the living room and take pictures of the locations just for shits and giggles.

    $55 for a box of cat6 sounds like CCA pricing. Decent cat6 is over $100 a box.

    Unless you have some awesome source of pure copper cat6.

    Yeah, you want a spool of something like this:

    https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103

    SijLqhH.png
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