Painting Thread a retrospective

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  • VikingViking Registered User regular
    that is a lovely green, nice change from the Olive Drab

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  • italianranmaitalianranma Registered User regular
    Viking wrote: »
    that is a lovely green, nice change from the Olive Drab

    Thanks! I was never interested in Plague Marines before, but that art panel (reprinted in KT:Commanders) really caught my eye, and suddenly all the Blight Guard models I’d been ignoring since I bought Dark Imperium a few years back jumped to the top of my queue.

    I primed white, then airbrushed Sybarite, followed by a 1:2 mix of Biel-tan green: Lahmian Medium. Healthy dry brush of Hellion green (Gauss Blaster Green is the layer version) and a final glaze of 1:4 hex wraith flame:Lahmian Medium.

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    Stragint
  • Golden YakGolden Yak Burnished Bovine The PIT, level 26Registered User regular
    Did a bunch more 3D printing, developing ways to make modular variants.

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    All my test prints have given me quite the army of horrible spooky body-horror creatures.

    Sometime this month I want to try more humanoid characters with modular equipment and weapons.

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  • DocSamsonDocSamson Registered User regular
    My painting process:

    This is shit. I hate this. Why is this so bad. Wait now it's not terrible. I kind of like this! Next model: start all over again.

    eLOhdOM.jpg

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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Ok you folks are all amazing at this. I got the itch again and I painted up a few orcs today. Nothing special. And I am having a HELL of a time with facial features on these guys (they are Reaper minis are are pretty small in the face) don't know if I just don't have the skill yet or if I need a smaller/finer brush.

    Just a few questions for someone whos painted maybe like 10 minis ever. What do you guys use as a work surface and what do you use for pallets? I have been putting news paper down and tossing it out for a work surface, but that feel kind of wasteful. Similarly, I have been using those plastic art pallets from the craft store but after like 2 uses are they useless and gotta get thrown out. I've seen people talking online about home made wet pallets, and I have seen those pallet books that they have at games workshop (which I assume is similar to this at my local craft store?) but I wanted to know what you guys recommend using. I'll post pictures of my like 4 color orcs tomorrow for you all, nothing fancy but I think they turned out pretty good.

    McGibs
  • PiptheFairPiptheFair Registered User regular
    DocSamson wrote: »
    My painting process:

    This is shit. I hate this. Why is this so bad. Wait now it's not terrible. I kind of like this! Next model: start all over again.

    eLOhdOM.jpg

    "Perfect is the enemy of good"

    also that is a real clean looking job

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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Ok you folks are all amazing at this. I got the itch again and I painted up a few orcs today. Nothing special. And I am having a HELL of a time with facial features on these guys (they are Reaper minis are are pretty small in the face) don't know if I just don't have the skill yet or if I need a smaller/finer brush.

    Just a few questions for someone whos painted maybe like 10 minis ever. What do you guys use as a work surface and what do you use for pallets? I have been putting news paper down and tossing it out for a work surface, but that feel kind of wasteful. Similarly, I have been using those plastic art pallets from the craft store but after like 2 uses are they useless and gotta get thrown out. I've seen people talking online about home made wet pallets, and I have seen those pallet books that they have at games workshop (which I assume is similar to this at my local craft store?) but I wanted to know what you guys recommend using. I'll post pictures of my like 4 color orcs tomorrow for you all, nothing fancy but I think they turned out pretty good.

    I use cardboard from my amazon boxes, they last multiple uses easily.

    I'm not sure why you are throwing the plastic pallets out. just keep putting more paint on top of the dried paint to work with? A spare/waste piece of tile works, but I recommend getting a wet palette if you are going to start putting in time. They are cheap (as is the paper to use with them), and when you close them up they keep paint good for days so you can come back to your project. You can make one yourself, but smaller ones are really affordable.In the end I guess they are just a plastic box with a spounge in them. GW can make quality products, but they are way overpriced. You can get a decent wet palette for like $10.

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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Alright, not the best but for my like 6th-9th paints not the worst.
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited January 6
    A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.
    For your criticism I submit this Plague Marine test model:
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    The intent is to reproduce the color scheme found in the cover art of Strike Team, and I’m mostly happy with the results.
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    I wanted the organic mutation parts to look like slimy maggot skin and the horn to look like yellowed nails, but I don’t think I achieved my vision. I’d like a more dynamic horn, maybe going from brown to ivory and then glazed in yellow. I’d also like the fleshy parts to stand out a bit more, maybe painting them an angry inflamed skin? I’m open to suggestions.

    I really like that green, it looks very good.

    For the guts depending on how much you want them to stand out my brother usually paints them fleshy and then covers them in blood for the blood god or nurgle's rot to make them look extra nurgely. Just not sure how gross you want to get the gross bois.

    Alternate color Death Guard are my favorite. When season 3 of Space Marine Heroes gets to the US I plan on buying some and trying some cool color schemes with them.
    DocSamson wrote: »
    My painting process:

    This is shit. I hate this. Why is this so bad. Wait now it's not terrible. I kind of like this! Next model: start all over again.
    eLOhdOM.jpg


    I really like this blue. I really need to start painting my Dreadnoughts. I have so many of them.
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Alright, not the best but for my like 6th-9th paints not the worst.
    9kojfyz0cnix.jpg[/spolier]

    Those Orcs look good. I like how the blood on the sword looks.

    As far as your other post about painting faces and what to use for painting. A good wet pallet is fantastic. A home made one is literally as easy as getting a small Tupperware container, some folded up paper towel to hold the water and a sheet of parchment baking paper to put on top and smear paint onto.

    I did eventually upgrade to a brand wet pallet and it has been noticeably better but the home made version always did me well. I also use a booth I bought for airbrushing as my primary paint surface and if I'm not using that I'll use cardboard.

    For painting faces I 100% recommend contrast paints from GW. I'm lazy as fuck when it comes to faces. I'm honestly lazy as fuck when it comes to any small details so I try to cut as many corners as I can. I basically only paint bone with skeleton horde contrast and rocks with basilicanum grey.

    If you do want to get that real nice classic paint method look on the faces then I recommend giving some of the Warhammer TV painting tutorials a watch. They are really good about going into detail for painting stuff and they have an absurd amount of videos that are really useful.

    Stragint on
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    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

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  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    PiptheFair wrote: »
    DocSamson wrote: »
    My painting process:

    This is shit. I hate this. Why is this so bad. Wait now it's not terrible. I kind of like this! Next model: start all over again.

    "Perfect is the enemy of good"

    also that is a real clean looking job

    No, no, you got it wrong. Chaos, xenos and heretics are the enemies of good.

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
    italianranmaBucketman
  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    I actually grabbed 2 of the Contrast paints this past weekend. The wife and I were up on the other side of Chicago and swung by the GamesWorkshop store in Palatine, Illinois. They had a good selection and the dude was super helpful and friendly (oddly enough he use to run the Orland Park location and has helped me several times in the past). He recommended I give the contract paints a try.

    Also I guess the one closest to me in Orland Park is the #1 store in the nation. I know some people prefer Valjaro paints or the P3 paints but I've really liked all my Citadel paints and I enjoy being able to see them in person at a store to pick my colors as opposed to buying them online.

  • Golden YakGolden Yak Burnished Bovine The PIT, level 26Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.

    Leave them in. On top of the lighting potential, the concept that these inter-dimensional magic wormholes bored through the aether of the cosmos by ruinous sorcery are all held up with rickety wooden support beams is hilariously Skaven.

    ..."That's so Skaven!" must be a thing.

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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Oh hey another of the half million question I have for all of you. Its too cold to spray prime, so I got some Liqutex Professional grade Gesso, black and white. I did 2 parts Gesso to 1 part water more or less, but it was really thin. Do you guys thin your Gesso?

  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited January 6
    I grab an alchohol based primer from vallejo and put it straight on (you cant really thin it with water, you'd need actual thinner). The black usually comes out good but the white comes out really streaky and I am questioning if using the white is worth the hassle, I'm about to run some tests using contrast paints and im crossing my fingers there.

    If you are painting reaper bones material(which is what I think I see above), you don't have to prime at all. For better results, wash the minis to make sure you get rid of all the mold release stuff on them or your paints can go on like super thinned water color and get splotchy. Putting on a really thick layer of primer will wreck the details of the mini if you aren't careful, and contrast paints can be thick and are meant to go on thick. A lot of this hobby is trial and error sometimes, and learning when to do the thing vs not do the thing for a specific effect.

    edit: one of the tests im going to do this week is contrast on bones/on primed bones/ on base coated bones&primed base coated bones, I'll try to post the results but it sounds like you are getting to painting faster than I.

    DiannaoChong on
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    Bucketman
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Oh hey another of the half million question I have for all of you. Its too cold to spray prime, so I got some Liqutex Professional grade Gesso, black and white. I did 2 parts Gesso to 1 part water more or less, but it was really thin. Do you guys thin your Gesso?

    Depends on the mini and the paint you can hand prime
    I don't really use gesso on minis

    Bucketman
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    I grab an alchohol based primer from vallejo and put it straight on (you cant really thin it with water, you'd need actual thinner). The black usually comes out good but the white comes out really streaky and I am questioning if using the white is worth the hassle, I'm about to run some tests using contrast paints and im crossing my fingers there.

    If you are painting reaper bones material(which is what I think I see above), you don't have to prime at all. For better results, wash the minis to make sure you get rid of all the mold release stuff on them or your paints can go on like super thinned water color and get splotchy. Putting on a really thick layer of primer will wreck the details of the mini if you aren't careful, and contrast paints can be thick and are meant to go on thick. A lot of this hobby is trial and error sometimes, and learning when to do the thing vs not do the thing for a specific effect.

    edit: one of the tests im going to do this week is contrast on bones/on primed bones/ on base coated bones&primed base coated bones, I'll try to post the results but it sounds like you are getting to painting faster than I.

    Vallejo grey primer is super close to white, with better coverage, and is maybe a couple shades lighter than the GW grey contrast primer, but works just as well for cooler tones.

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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    I've had a few people tell me you should still prine the reaper and "preprimed" D&D minis. And I saw some people saying gesso is good for a paint on primer. Guess we'll see how they all turn out. Those guys all had a thin layer of black gesso.

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Bucketman wrote: »
    I've had a few people tell me you should still prine the reaper and "preprimed" D&D minis. And I saw some people saying gesso is good for a paint on primer. Guess we'll see how they all turn out. Those guys all had a thin layer of black gesso.

    I got at Target for some odd reason they had the Aasimar fighters Nolzur's mini I have yet to paint it as it's been too cold. It looks primed but I am still very curious about them

    Bucketman
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Golden Yak wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    A bunch of people in the Skaven page I'm in on FB have told me to leave the wooden beams on the Gnawholes off and like I kinda want to but I also kind of want to try and rig each beam going over the hole to be rigged with a UV LED diode so I can light them up when I want to. I need to do some testing and see how I might pull that off but I think I can do it.

    Leave them in. On top of the lighting potential, the concept that these inter-dimensional magic wormholes bored through the aether of the cosmos by ruinous sorcery are all held up with rickety wooden support beams is hilariously Skaven.

    ..."That's so Skaven!" must be a thing.

    Yea, it feels very in theme. I just need to clip out a set and try to figure out how I'll put in the lights. I might try to bore out a channel and then cover it with green stuff once the wires are in.

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular



    Still I am now very curious how I can do the veiled path in contrast paint. Also what black is Corvus Black? A darker black than Chaos? Or Darker than Abaddon or somewhere in-between?

    Bucketmanwarder808
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I ordered the last set of colorshift paints from green stuff world on Friday to complete the set and they haven't shipped them yet. Usually they are so fast. I hope my email about their white fluorescent paint basically being chalk isn't messing things up.

    I'm still unsure what to do as far as painting my colorshifed Tau. I should probably focus on finishing the Gnawholes but I keep thinking about my poor Tau that I haven't touched in months.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    My tau even though I got them over 10 years ago still are untouched {because of my debate of Farsight vs generic tan tau}

  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Corvus Black is really dark neutral gray. It is intended to give a starting point for black that still allows for shading.

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Corvus Black is really dark neutral gray. It is intended to give a starting point for black that still allows for shading.

    I was looking at it to do the proto black templars. I also had an idea to do a few of them in a different way.
    Since I am making my imperial first Horus Heresy force proto black templars I am going to do half? or so still in the yellow armor most in the black armor yellow pauldrons and helm

  • HermanoHermano Registered User regular
    Got a little photo booth thingy for Christmas so hopefully I can show off all the flaws and mistakes in my painting a bit better!



    New Chaos models are very nice, although the push fit makes sub assemblies a nightmare, so the Knights are going to be a pain to paint


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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Is there a way to zoom in on Instagram images on mobile?

  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    I don't think there's much of a way to zoom in on Instagram images regardless of platform. <_<

    Nips
  • MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    Holy shit Hermano...

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Last models finished in 2019:
    t2f8i4zvqyzw.jpg
    Maybe I also need a set-up for making photos.

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    After trying to take some pictures of my Tau that I've used colorshift paints on I've decided that I very much do not like how they look which sucks because it is a pretty decent quantity of painted up minis.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • HermanoHermano Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Is there a way to zoom in on Instagram images on mobile?

    You sort of can on the app, I was really using it on my phone because I don't want to post pics the size of Belgium or mess around resizing it

    Non Instagram one-
    i5tztu6gcivc.jpg


    PSN- AHermano
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  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited January 8
    I don't really want to clean the Tau off since it would be such a pain but I do want to start over.
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    Bucketman wrote: »
    Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.

    GW paints are definitely fine. I think it mostly comes down to what color you want and how you want it to dry. I have GW classic and contrast paints, vallejo game air and metallic, I have scale 75 paints and inks, and I have the green stuff world colorshift and fluorescent paints.

    Just depends on what you want to do and which brand will give you the desired color in the end.

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    HermanoBucketman
  • HermanoHermano Registered User regular
    Sticking with Citadel paints is going to make following their guides and videos easier if you're doing that. Vallejo are slightly better value for money, and the model air mettalics are fantastic, but there's no need to move on from GW paints if you're starting out


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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    So when I dove back into the hobby a couple years back, I swore by reaper paints, you could get a ton for very little and they worked(and dropper bottles were a plus). But man are they chalky in comparison to GW's satin finish. I still think they have their uses, but stay away from their metallics, they just tend to do bad things for some reason when I try to do anything with them.

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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    edited January 9
    Bucketman wrote: »
    Another newbie question: What paints do you recommend? I have mostly Citadel paints because there are a few GW stores near me and the staff is always super friendly and its easy to get. I also have some Reaper paints from their starter set but its been a few years and their starting to separate a bit.

    GW paints are outstanding. The pots are shit. Coat d' Arms and P3 paints are also outstanding and come in good pots (CtD, P3 & GW paints are all produced by HMG in the UK). CtD is actually the old Citadel line with updated names in most cases, eg: Boltgun Metal = Gun Metal.

    Dr_Keenbean on
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I decided to try and clean off the Tau. Gonna have them sit in a bath of simple green, I might also by a sonic cleaner. I just want to clean them off and start over.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    Working on my pork chops (ironguts). I saw an ogre army converted to be the Monty Python Knights, and ever since I always loved the idea of mock nobility.
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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Because of a piece seller doing an odd deal I had to get 3 of Icepelt last year. So my brother was building Wolf guard from leftover parts . I decided to make a primaris wolf guard for him
    odpesqfjyns2.png
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    I jsut need to fix some of the joints with green stuff when it gets warmer

    H3KnucklesCalicaBucketman
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    The Tau are coming surprisingly clean after only 24 hours in simple green.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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