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Painting Thread a retrospective

2456712

Posts

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    If I get that silicone for making the mold and the releasing stuff (I did not have that in my cart before) I'm sitting at $126.96 total after shipping.

    The clear cast resin is just a bit cheaper than the one you are using. The color tints I'm buying are $9 a bottle which is a pain because I need orange but they don't sell orange so I have to buy yellow and red to mix together.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ChrysisChrysis Registered User regular
    So my plans for today fell through, and instead I spent it painting up a pair of Warhounds. AT scale of course. I'm happy with how they've turned out, but need some suggestions for what to do for the bases.

    They're Legio Xestobiax warhounds, Prosperine Vigil, so based on Prospero. Descriptions I've seen include temperate and verdant, so green stuff. Problem for me is the scale, as they are of course supposed to be significantly larger than a space marine. Any suggestions for this scale?

    Sorry about the grainy cell phone photos, lighting is bad here at the moment and I'm not going to get out the light tent and big camera for WiP shots.
    b2irjkrj1008.jpg
    xh4n6zxr7wcz.jpg
    r419ft4atztb.jpg

    Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
    DayspringBrainleechNipsKhraulExtreaminatusTheColonelvalhalla130JandaruHappy Little Machine
  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Tamiya Cement is the best plastic glue ever, fight me nerds

    JKhraulExtreaminatusCasually HardcoreNorgoth
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Chrysis wrote: »
    So my plans for today fell through, and instead I spent it painting up a pair of Warhounds. AT scale of course. I'm happy with how they've turned out, but need some suggestions for what to do for the bases.

    They're Legio Xestobiax warhounds, Prosperine Vigil, so based on Prospero. Descriptions I've seen include temperate and verdant, so green stuff. Problem for me is the scale, as they are of course supposed to be significantly larger than a space marine. Any suggestions for this scale?

    Sorry about the grainy cell phone photos, lighting is bad here at the moment and I'm not going to get out the light tent and big camera for WiP shots.
    b2irjkrj1008.jpg
    xh4n6zxr7wcz.jpg
    r419ft4atztb.jpg

    Z scale model train scenery stuff is pretty much the right scale for AT. I think Busch and Noch are some of the bigger names for that

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I wanna try to get all the mold stuff together at once, the mann 200 stuff has a bit of a longer shipping time.

    https://www.brickintheyard.com/collections/releases/products/2500

    Will this work in its place? Since I'm buying the resin and tint from this site I figured I will look into mold release as well.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I wanna try to get all the mold stuff together at once, the mann 200 stuff has a bit of a longer shipping time.

    https://www.brickintheyard.com/collections/releases/products/2500

    Will this work in its place? Since I'm buying the resin and tint from this site I figured I will look into mold release as well.

    That should probably be fine.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
  • Alistair HuttonAlistair Hutton Dr EdinburghRegistered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Chrysis wrote: »
    So my plans for today fell through, and instead I spent it painting up a pair of Warhounds. AT scale of course. I'm happy with how they've turned out, but need some suggestions for what to do for the bases.

    They're Legio Xestobiax warhounds, Prosperine Vigil, so based on Prospero. Descriptions I've seen include temperate and verdant, so green stuff. Problem for me is the scale, as they are of course supposed to be significantly larger than a space marine. Any suggestions for this scale?

    Sorry about the grainy cell phone photos, lighting is bad here at the moment and I'm not going to get out the light tent and big camera for WiP shots.
    b2irjkrj1008.jpg
    xh4n6zxr7wcz.jpg
    r419ft4atztb.jpg

    Z scale model train scenery stuff is pretty much the right scale for AT. I think Busch and Noch are some of the bigger names for that

    Yeah, Z gauge is 1:220 and AT is 1:228 so go hog wild in the model railway shop.

    I have a thoughtful and infrequently updated blog about games http://whatithinkaboutwhenithinkaboutgames.wordpress.com/

    I made a game, it has penguins in it. It's pay what you like on Gumroad.

    Currently Ebaying Nothing at all but I might do in the future.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Chrysis wrote: »
    So my plans for today fell through, and instead I spent it painting up a pair of Warhounds. AT scale of course. I'm happy with how they've turned out, but need some suggestions for what to do for the bases.

    They're Legio Xestobiax warhounds, Prosperine Vigil, so based on Prospero. Descriptions I've seen include temperate and verdant, so green stuff. Problem for me is the scale, as they are of course supposed to be significantly larger than a space marine. Any suggestions for this scale?

    Sorry about the grainy cell phone photos, lighting is bad here at the moment and I'm not going to get out the light tent and big camera for WiP shots.
    b2irjkrj1008.jpg
    xh4n6zxr7wcz.jpg
    r419ft4atztb.jpg

    Z scale model train scenery stuff is pretty much the right scale for AT. I think Busch and Noch are some of the bigger names for that

    Yeah, Z gauge is 1:220 and AT is 1:228 so go hog wild in the model railway shop.

    the problem for me is the model train place I knew of that was deep into trains and models closed years ago
    I don't know if bigot lobby and Michael's carry trains anymore so I do have the warhounds titans I got on ebay just to paint but I was kind of dismissed buy it only having a set of the Vulcan bolter so I might magnet them so I can swap the weapons for the look I want

  • HefflingHeffling No Pic EverRegistered User regular
    Cross posting because I'm a proud daddy.

    About six months ago I got my annual bonus at work. I talked to my wife about wanting a bigger project to work on over the next year, and she looked at some model kits with me. She really liked the look of the Strike Rouge, so we came up with the plan for me to get the PG Strike Rouge + Skygrasper set and paint them her in color selection. She wanted purple and gold.

    To start with, I wanted a test bed for my paint scheme. I already own the PG Skygrasper + Aile Strike Pack set as I wanted the Aile for my PG Astray Red Frame, so I had a backup in case things went wrong. So, I started with this. We talked about the color scheme and decided on a very light purple to replace the white/pink parts, a very dark royal purple for the darker parts, and an intermediate purple that I didn't use on this kit.

    It pleases me to present to you the Skygrasper Royale.

    cI8lLaj.png

    Oq0rsD6.png

    8TddRSe.png

    wl3ffZi.jpg

    iorCAjd.jpg

    Here's the original color scheme for reference.
    img_85761.jpg?resize=1200%2C800&crop=1

    All feedback is welcome.

    Next up is painting the Aile pack, then the Strike Rouge.

    If a movement doesn't have someone that can sit down opposite those in a position of power and strike a deal, how can that movement achieve success?
    BrainleechStragintWatcherRiusIanatorJLord_AsmodeusArcticLancerNipsElvenshaevalhalla130DiannaoChongAsherExtreaminatusHermanoironsizide
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    So I started my carnifex that has sat unprimed for years
    g107w6mfujey.png
    This is just the base coats I did khrone red for something different I think I am either going to do agrax or crimson as a wash on it?
    Just sadly the Gw store is closed here mon/Tuesday so I know I have to get ushabti bone for various things as well as another paint so I cannot justify just buying those two from the online store {I could just crack out the 12 I need to do the harlequins and throw in the other 3]

    As a side I plan on doing all my armies with jungle themed bases [all flavors of eldar, the tyranids , my black templars, and the necrons} So I was kind of annoyed when looking at Z scale trees that they came in various sized packs when I looked online {I plan on keeping the theme with my warhound titan just adding the trees}

    ElvenshaeDiannaoChongHermano
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited September 17
    Slowly figuring out the paint scheme for the next BB team.
    goiuw9nvkthn.jpg
    For now they're called Les Feuilles Mortelles
    Red continues to be the worst to photograph

    honovere on
    DayspringNipsKhraulElvenshaeHalos Nach TariffHermano
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    I don't know enough about BB to have an informed comment, but I feel you should be working towards including "Picanté" in their name. ;P

    ElvenshaeExtreaminatus
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    I feel like I've spent way too long painting this thing which literally costs 0 in game points, but on the other hand it will be on the board for 100 percent of the battles I fight with this army, so I suppose it's not inappropriate to put some time into it.

    d0vcnj0goakc.jpg
    25305x7paxqb.jpg
    dqllaa7zar3n.jpg

    Plus it does give me an opportunity to practise some freehand work, I didn't like the big plastic demon head on the base sculpt so I chopped it out and painted my own. Plus a little curséd portrait for good measure.

    w6ofdpj81sss.jpg
    pn04foauh6x1.jpg






    StraginthonovereDescendant XJam WarriorDiannaoChongNipsElvenshaeBrainleechOrogogusArcticLancerGaryOKhraulVikingIanatorvalhalla130GR_ZombieDayspringHefflingWatcherMaydayExtreaminatusJandaruHermanoDocSamsonKoregKetarHappy Little MachineCalicaA Dabble Of Theloniusironsizide
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    The freehands are pretty good. But I'm in love with the night sky water on the other side. So pretty!

    ElvenshaeDayspringJCalica
  • Halos Nach TariffHalos Nach Tariff Can you blame me? I'm too famous.Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    The freehands are pretty good. But I'm in love with the night sky water on the other side. So pretty!

    Hah, I'm most proud of that bit myself, it wasn't looking too hot until I got round to adding the stars and stuff when it all pulled together. That's definitely my intended 'front' of the piece for games.



    honovereElvenshae
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    What is a good way to encase the silicone while creating to mold? Video I saw used acrylic panes but I have no idea where to get those

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    What is a good way to encase the silicone while creating to mold? Video I saw used acrylic panes but I have no idea where to get those

    You can use cardboard, metal cookie cutters things like that
    With cardboard just make sure it's stiff enough to take the liquid and be sure to tape the edges but you can get sheets of acrylic at home despot or lowes

    StragintDiannaoChong
  • Sharp101Sharp101 TorontoRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    What is a good way to encase the silicone while creating to mold? Video I saw used acrylic panes but I have no idea where to get those

    Lego bricks.

    BrainleechStragintMr_RosehonovereElvenshaevalhalla130Daenris
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    edited September 19
    Sharp101 wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    What is a good way to encase the silicone while creating to mold? Video I saw used acrylic panes but I have no idea where to get those

    Lego bricks.

    This is good, and I've done it. Be aware that unless your bricks are perfectly tight, you'll get some minor leakage along seams. You'll probably get some leakage anyway. You'll also need to fix it to some sort of substrate, which is another point of leakage.

    For the most part, I followed the instructions that Bruce Hirst put together, and had good success.

    http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html

    Nips on
    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    StragintDiannaoChong
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I have mad amounts of lego so I'll use that.

    Thank you for the help and suggestions. I plan on starting the silicone mold tonight or tomorrow morning. I am pretty excited to do this project, I've always wanted to do stuff like this for modeling and terrain stuff.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • 3lwap03lwap0 Registered User regular
    Hello my hobby friends.

    I've been tooling around with Impcat. I caught wind of it on Fauxhammer via a social media ad. I immediately suspected it was malware, but figured it might be worth a gamble - so I ran it in a virtual android environment.

    Long story short - it's legit. This is a nifty tool for testing out paint schemes. It's fairly customizable, and there's a decent Reddit community for custom .svg's and color palettes. I'm still struggling with the highlights/layering. There's some logic here that does it automatically - but - I haven't figured it out just yet. It's hit or miss. And honestly, this thing is early beta, so I can't complain too much. For the few bucks it cost me, my expectations aren't too high.

    Here's some examples:

    3p25nzik4vva.png

    zu7g5yedjyyj.png

    Might be worth your time - I don't hate it so far.

    I think Pringles original intention was to make tennis balls... but on the day the rubber was supposed to show up a truckload of potatoes came. Pringles is a laid-back company, so they just said, "Fuck it, cut em up!".
    IanatorDaenris
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I looked around at z scale palm trees online most of what I found was a mixed bag with other scales
    I found on ebay people in china selling groups but I just don't know so I looked on youtube and found someone building them with just wire paper and paint


    It is z scale or 1:220 so I can fake it

    DiannaoChong
  • BucketmanBucketman Call me SkraggRegistered User regular
    How do people feel about those lights with a magnifying glass on it? I feel like it would help me paint details better

  • TheColonelTheColonel ChicagolandRegistered User regular
    I have one, and basically never use it. I found that the distortion effect of the magnifier lens was causing me more issues than I would normally have had.

    valhalla130TomantaDiannaoChong
  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    I've used the maximum magnification reading glasses you get from the cheap rack at the pharmacy, as well as the magnifying headband with a couple of different flippable magnifications lenses. It was also quite cheap and useful, because easy to push out of the way in between needing to see real close and then look at more distant things.

  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    I spent a lot on a light with a big ol'magnifying glass and I too almody never use it. It's judt more natural using the reading glasses I too bought at the Walmart cheap rack.

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I have a desk lamp with a magnifying lens but I lost the stand in the years I did not play/paint I still have the lamp. I really disliked how hot it would get and the smell of it getting hot.
    Still when I got the LED lamp a few weeks before I got fired it did help painting as my house it cave like

  • BadablackBadablack Registered User regular
    edited September 20
    Finished up a pair of dudes to run as Guard commanders for my Grey Knights allies. Eventually I’m hoping Inquisition get some love and they can graduate to Inquisitors, but for now they’ll hide behind buildings from all the snipers.
    XzO4Inz.jpg

    Badablack on
    FC: 1435-5383-0883
    BloodySlothElvenshaeDiannaoChongIanatorWatcherArcticLancerHefflingHappy Little Machineironsizide
  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    I always followed the logic of "if you need a magnifying glass to paint it, noone without a maginifying glass is going to see it anyways". But I'm a mediocre painter.

    steam_sig.png
    BrainleechNipsvalhalla130JandaruExtreaminatusTheColonel
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    So I got everything for casting and I'm starting to feel a bit anxious about starting. I'm kind of unsure how I'm gonna get the resin into the mold. I have some ideas like having the bottom part of the stuff I'm casting against the sides of the mold so I have a space to pour into.

    I feel like I'm gonna over think myself out of doing it and just play WoW like I've been doing constantly with my paint projects. Haven't touched my knights, tau, or one corvus cabal I started painting in quite a while now.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    I always followed the logic of "if you need a magnifying glass to paint it, noone without a maginifying glass is going to see it anyways". But I'm a mediocre painter.
    I guess? But you're making some baseline assumptions about your eyesight VS others which may not be universal. :P

  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I got everything for casting and I'm starting to feel a bit anxious about starting. I'm kind of unsure how I'm gonna get the resin into the mold. I have some ideas like having the bottom part of the stuff I'm casting against the sides of the mold so I have a space to pour into.

    Some thoughts:

    You can put one side of the object against the side wall of the box to make an aperture to pour into, but this works best with objects that have one flat side, and relatively simple geometry. This won't work as well for spindly parts with lots of branches and that don't have a solid flat edge to work with.

    What kind of vessel are you using to mix your resin in? If you use a graduated beaker with a pour spout, and the opening to your mold is large enough, you could pour it straight from the beaker.

    One way you can overcome both of these problems is to do what I call "gravity-assisted low-pressure injection molding". I did this with the following mold:

    OA9zDSdh.jpg

    After casting the pieces I used an Exacto knife to cut channels into the mold, to pour into, to connect the pieces, and to let the air out. After mixing my resin I poured it into a syringe, and then used the syringe to push the resin into the center channel from above (standing the mold on its edge so the channel openings faced up), allowing the pressure from the syringe and gravity to help fill the resin into the mold.

    It's important that you're using a low-viscosity resin for this, so that it flows properly into the voids. Also, you want to make sure you're not creating any undercuts or pockets where air could get trapped, by properly positioning the parts when you make the mold.

    If you need more examples, let me know.

    [NOT AN EDIT] Thing the last: It occurred to me while I wrote this that you could create a sizable "sprue block" for any spindly parts, and make sure that block is positioned against a side wall of the mold box. This would give you a larger opening to pour into. Let me know if you want a diagram or something.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    So I got everything for casting and I'm starting to feel a bit anxious about starting. I'm kind of unsure how I'm gonna get the resin into the mold. I have some ideas like having the bottom part of the stuff I'm casting against the sides of the mold so I have a space to pour into.

    Some thoughts:

    You can put one side of the object against the side wall of the box to make an aperture to pour into, but this works best with objects that have one flat side, and relatively simple geometry. This won't work as well for spindly parts with lots of branches and that don't have a solid flat edge to work with.

    What kind of vessel are you using to mix your resin in? If you use a graduated beaker with a pour spout, and the opening to your mold is large enough, you could pour it straight from the beaker.

    One way you can overcome both of these problems is to do what I call "gravity-assisted low-pressure injection molding". I did this with the following mold:

    OA9zDSdh.jpg

    After casting the pieces I used an Exacto knife to cut channels into the mold, to pour into, to connect the pieces, and to let the air out. After mixing my resin I poured it into a syringe, and then used the syringe to push the resin into the center channel from above (standing the mold on its edge so the channel openings faced up), allowing the pressure from the syringe and gravity to help fill the resin into the mold.

    It's important that you're using a low-viscosity resin for this, so that it flows properly into the voids. Also, you want to make sure you're not creating any undercuts or pockets where air could get trapped, by properly positioning the parts when you make the mold.

    If you need more examples, let me know.

    [NOT AN EDIT] Thing the last: It occurred to me while I wrote this that you could create a sizable "sprue block" for any spindly parts, and make sure that block is positioned against a side wall of the mold box. This would give you a larger opening to pour into. Let me know if you want a diagram or something.

    I diagram for a sprue block would be very much appreciated.

    This is what I am working with as far as parts to cast.
    2tuqy6tm4er3.jpeg

    I was thinking of cutting the pieces I needed off with sprue attached to use as a potential pour point on the edge.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I definitely need to cut stuff off the sprues to make this work. Or at least cut them off with some sprue left for an easy spot for resin to get in.

    The logistics of this are frustrating me.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I definitely need to cut stuff off the sprues to make this work. Or at least cut them off with some sprue left for an easy spot for resin to get in.

    The logistics of this are frustrating me.

    I'm prepping dinner now, but later this evening I can post up some more in-depth help.

    For now, I'm going to say the existing sprues aren't going to help much. Those were designed for high-pressure injection molding, and so their aperture is probably going to be too narrow for a gravity-fed pour.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    BrainleechStragint
  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks The Myth, the Legend, the Bowman, the Shambler FuckerRegistered User regular
    If Nuln Oil is "Liquid Skill" that makes your minis look ten times better than a camera is liquid anti-skill that makes my minis look ten times worse.

    gRAhjXV.gif
    valhalla130TheColonelHefflingCasually Hardcore
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    If Nuln Oil is "Liquid Skill" that makes your minis look ten times better than a camera is liquid anti-skill that makes my minis look ten times worse.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I definitely need to cut stuff off the sprues to make this work. Or at least cut them off with some sprue left for an easy spot for resin to get in.

    The logistics of this are frustrating me.

    I'm prepping dinner now, but later this evening I can post up some more in-depth help.

    For now, I'm going to say the existing sprues aren't going to help much. Those were designed for high-pressure injection molding, and so their aperture is probably going to be too narrow for a gravity-fed pour.

    I really appreciate that, thank you!

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    @Stragint

    Okay, I've spent the last twenty minutes looking at your sprue pic, and the pics of the Warriors on GW's website.

    I'm not going to lie: you've got a bit of tough sledding ahead, trying to get good casts of these parts. I'm going to assume you've read everything on that Hirst Arts page I linked earlier. That page does a really good job of covering the why's and whatfor's for the basics, so I'm just going to work on helping you with specifics here.

    With that said, I want to say this up top: This is going to take a little bit of trial and error. You're going to make some mistakes. Don't get discouraged! I don't think this is going to be easy, but I believe it's possible. Working with the silicone and resin, materially speaking, is actually the easier part; getting the parts positioned in an ideal way to mold them is going to be 85% of the battle here.

    First, here's some light commentary on that pic you posted:
    mh1zkHx.png

    We're up against a number of problems:
    1. The pieces are pretty small and/or thin and/or spindly, and several have some likely impossible-to-cast undercuts. (That axe-head on the gun is just straight up...woof).
    2. Some of the more desirable parts (the arms especially) have weird bends in them that will make casting difficult.
    3. There's surface detail on these parts (especially the torsos) that will collect air bubbles during casting; having a low-viscosity resin will help take care of this, but it might not be 100% perfect with every cast.

    Remember, we're just aiming to cast something workable and not 100% accurate. It's important to realize that we don't care about the shape these parts come in by default. We're going into full on kitbashing territory here anyway, so we have 100% liberty to cut things up, reposition them, and do all that with the expectation that we'll need to do some post-casting assembly and cleanup work.

    In fact, let's start with the easiest example: here's how I'd position an arm bit in a two-part mold. This is close to the ideal way to position them, and the more complicated of the parts will follow similar positioning.
    Making the mold using the RTV Silicone. The black dotted parts are the LEGO walls and substrate, the red the volume of the eventual mold itself, the blue line divides the top and bottom halves of the mold. The important thing to note here is that you want the arm parts (and the attached sprue block) to be as close to centered between the two halves as possible. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the further away from the seam the part goes, the more difficult it will be to access and cut gates for (if necessary).
    X3ZjZC8h.png

    Pouring Resin into the mold. The sprue block should have created a large blocked-out void in the mold you made, giving you easy access to pour your resin in. Once you've poured your resin, make sure to take a wire and poke it down into the void where the miniature part was; you absolutely want to make sure that there's no air bubbles down in there, or they'll ruin the part you're casting.
    f9QiowYh.png

    That sprue block? Your best bet is something like modeling clay, where you've buried the end of the bit into the clay by around a half millimeter or so, enough to give it purchase and create enough contact area between the sprue block and the part that it forms a decent aperture for the void it will create in the eventual mold. Alternately, you could shave the round nub a bit flat, and superglue it to a block of [anything that rubber won't stick to].

    So that's like ten-thousand words trying to describe this. Hopefully it's helpful! Remember: You're not making commercial-quality parts here. You're making something that's "good enough" that you wouldn't otherwise notice it at the table once it's painted up.

    Good luck, have fun, and let me know if you have any more questions!


    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    RiusKhraulStragintbobAkirafettElvenshaeTheColonel
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    @Stragint

    Okay, I've spent the last twenty minutes looking at your sprue pic, and the pics of the Warriors on GW's website.

    I'm not going to lie: you've got a bit of tough sledding ahead, trying to get good casts of these parts. I'm going to assume you've read everything on that Hirst Arts page I linked earlier. That page does a really good job of covering the why's and whatfor's for the basics, so I'm just going to work on helping you with specifics here.

    With that said, I want to say this up top: This is going to take a little bit of trial and error. You're going to make some mistakes. Don't get discouraged! I don't think this is going to be easy, but I believe it's possible. Working with the silicone and resin, materially speaking, is actually the easier part; getting the parts positioned in an ideal way to mold them is going to be 85% of the battle here.

    First, here's some light commentary on that pic you posted:
    mh1zkHx.png

    We're up against a number of problems:
    1. The pieces are pretty small and/or thin and/or spindly, and several have some likely impossible-to-cast undercuts. (That axe-head on the gun is just straight up...woof).
    2. Some of the more desirable parts (the arms especially) have weird bends in them that will make casting difficult.
    3. There's surface detail on these parts (especially the torsos) that will collect air bubbles during casting; having a low-viscosity resin will help take care of this, but it might not be 100% perfect with every cast.

    Remember, we're just aiming to cast something workable and not 100% accurate. It's important to realize that we don't care about the shape these parts come in by default. We're going into full on kitbashing territory here anyway, so we have 100% liberty to cut things up, reposition them, and do all that with the expectation that we'll need to do some post-casting assembly and cleanup work.

    In fact, let's start with the easiest example: here's how I'd position an arm bit in a two-part mold. This is close to the ideal way to position them, and the more complicated of the parts will follow similar positioning.
    Making the mold using the RTV Silicone. The black dotted parts are the LEGO walls and substrate, the red the volume of the eventual mold itself, the blue line divides the top and bottom halves of the mold. The important thing to note here is that you want the arm parts (and the attached sprue block) to be as close to centered between the two halves as possible. It doesn't have to be perfect, but the further away from the seam the part goes, the more difficult it will be to access and cut gates for (if necessary).
    X3ZjZC8h.png

    Pouring Resin into the mold. The sprue block should have created a large blocked-out void in the mold you made, giving you easy access to pour your resin in. Once you've poured your resin, make sure to take a wire and poke it down into the void where the miniature part was; you absolutely want to make sure that there's no air bubbles down in there, or they'll ruin the part you're casting.
    f9QiowYh.png

    That sprue block? Your best bet is something like modeling clay, where you've buried the end of the bit into the clay by around a half millimeter or so, enough to give it purchase and create enough contact area between the sprue block and the part that it forms a decent aperture for the void it will create in the eventual mold. Alternately, you could shave the round nub a bit flat, and superglue it to a block of [anything that rubber won't stick to].

    So that's like ten-thousand words trying to describe this. Hopefully it's helpful! Remember: You're not making commercial-quality parts here. You're making something that's "good enough" that you wouldn't otherwise notice it at the table once it's painted up.

    Good luck, have fun, and let me know if you have any more questions!


    I really appreciate how detailed this is. It is definitely giving me more confidence.

    I did want ask, should I do multiple small molds because of the size of the pieces or could I manager a larger mold to get them all?

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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