Painting Thread a retrospective

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.

    Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.

    How does gold or brass rust?

    It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.

    Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.

    I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.

    The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
    4OQf2nE.jpg
    9QAO9CO.jpg
    W9Rxhzs.jpg
    q2D2OzV.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    Elvenshae
  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.

    Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.

    How does gold or brass rust?

    It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.

    Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.

    I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.

    The 'boring' method is only boring to do en masse. I did it for my AoS skellington, not Bonercast, army and it was fun for 10 models. 50 models after that it truly was boring AF.

    Something else I just thought of is doing your brass base color, then hitting it with Typhus Corrosion in patches, and then putting in some thinned down Nihilakh Oxide on those patches might look kinda neat.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.

    Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.

    How does gold or brass rust?

    It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.

    Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.

    I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.

    The 'boring' method is only boring to do en masse. I did it for my AoS skellington, not Bonercast, army and it was fun for 10 models. 50 models after that it truly was boring AF.

    Something else I just thought of is doing your brass base color, then hitting it with Typhus Corrosion in patches, and then putting in some thinned down Nihilakh Oxide on those patches might look kinda neat.

    That could definitely look good. I'll try that and see how I like it.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    @Stragint

    I love that Plague Monk's robes.

    omgbfz5lzi1s.png
    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
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  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

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  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. 5386-8443-8937Registered User regular
    edited February 28
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    Go slow with consecutive layers of a couple different shaders?

    Styrofoam Sammich on
    wq09t4opzrlc.jpg
  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    OR, here's a better idea: wait for someone who's good at painting to give you advice.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    ElvenshaeNipswebguy20H3KnucklesKhraul
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.

    God, flesh bodies suck.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    H3Knuckles
  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.

    God, flesh bodies suck.

    I wrote that post while looking at my raging psoriasis plaques, so yeah. Flesh bodies do suck.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    NipsKhraul
  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited February 28
    Nips wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.

    God, flesh bodies suck.

    Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.

    Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.

    This is the mini in question.

    scoeucoccs2j.jpeg

    webguy20 on
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  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Nips wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.

    God, flesh bodies suck.

    Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.

    Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.

    At first you had my curiosity. But now you have my interest.

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    webguy20
  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Nips wrote: »
    webguy20 wrote: »
    I need some advice too. Im doing a big fleshy beholder esque monster and due to some 3d printer issues it has some rough patches. Ive decided these would be perfect texture wise for the kind of dried cracked grey skin you can get on your elbows and heels and stuff. How would ya’ll go about painting something like that? Im unsure of the blend of colors to use. For contrast the rest of the monster is going to be pale skin tone with a handful of small red lesions.

    If you're going with caucasian flesh tone for the monster, I would use a thinned red wash like Carroburg Crimson to get an aggravated skin color into the recesses and small surrounding area to make it look raw, then lightly drybrush your base skin tone over that once it's dry.

    Then drybrush the highlight for that skin tone over aslightly smaller smaller area. Then, once you have those colors down, I'd do a very small drybrush of white in a very controlled fashion to pick up the most gribbly areas to make it look like dry, dead skin.

    Staring at my repugnant, fleshy bits that have fallen foul to calloused scuffing (on my knees, chasing a two year old everyday), I can confirm this would likely work. My recommendation here is that you make sure the most scuffed parts are very matte at completion; dry skin is dry, and exhibits zero of that juicy vibrancy associated with healthy flesh.

    God, flesh bodies suck.

    Ooh sounds good. I might hit the whole thing with gloss varnish to give it that wet sweaty look, and then do a brush on matte coat for the dry bits.

    Thanks folks. This thing is hopefully going to look disgusting and somewhat...phallic when done. Im still debating giving it hair around the base of its eye stalks. I want to maximize the repulsiveness of this thing.

    At first you had my curiosity. But now you have my interest.

    Yea this mini has veins on the sides of it’s eyestalks. You better believe I'm painting them blue then washing over them with skin tone.

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  • DayspringDayspring the Phoenician Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.

    Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.

    How does gold or brass rust?

    It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.

    Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.

    I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.

    The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
    4OQf2nE.jpg
    9QAO9CO.jpg
    W9Rxhzs.jpg
    q2D2OzV.jpg

    Considering how vivid the robes are, I'd suggest going with a super rusty, almost orangey-brown for the metals. It'd be a good combination with the robes

    H3KnuckleshonovereHermanoElvenshae
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Dayspring wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I'm feeling very torn doing rusty weapons on my plague monks. I'm not happy about this.

    Does the Typhus corrosion dry brushed with ryza rust still work over gold or something? I at least want to do a different color besides leadbelcher.

    How does gold or brass rust?

    It is a fantasy world. What does it matter? I'm just curious if it will look good or not.

    Typus Corrosion/Ryza Rust isn't going to show up that well on brass or gold, despite what my high school trumpet looks like now. It will not look good, I've tried. If you want rusty brass/gold, go with a heavy brown wash and oxide colors. OR, go brass/gold, but base and outline the parts you want to corrode with Leadbelcher so that it actually reads as corrosion.

    I'll test that out and see if it is something I want to try. I might just go boring and do leadbelcher, typhus corrosion, ryza rust, and then highlight with stormhost silver. I don't want to take too long on finalizing the scheme for these.

    The first test monk is going pretty well so far. I am realizing I am going to go insane doing this and it will take longer than I want it to but whatever.
    4OQf2nE.jpg
    9QAO9CO.jpg
    W9Rxhzs.jpg
    q2D2OzV.jpg

    Considering how vivid the robes are, I'd suggest going with a super rusty, almost orangey-brown for the metals. It'd be a good combination with the robes

    That is what I decided to do. It is gonna be kind of tough to do though. I wish I had sub assembled them because painting the arms is going to suck. Still need to do another layer on the weapons but after that I'm gonna shade the few warplock bronze parts with either agrax or reikland shade and then gonna get those swords hella rusty.

    The albino look isn't going well so far, don't really have anything to work with for this one though.
    kBBbH5g.jpg
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    p7pDiUv.jpg
    U1Xrdtk.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    Elvenshae
  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. 5386-8443-8937Registered User regular
    Just in time for coronavirus, its the Death Guard
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  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    Don't judge the rats till you've done a whole bunch. Make sure you base them first too.

    Also his left arm you've gone over with teal but it's furry. :)

    DiannaoChong
  • HermanoHermano Registered User regular
    Battle sisters squad pretty much done, though I'll probably be adding snow to the bases once all the models in the box are done and based

    9iwkffk7e192.jpg


    PSN- AHermano
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  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Even with just a single layer of skin tone this thing is looking ewww.

    f6akmt2i9atp.jpeg

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  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Oh yeah, those eye stalks are gonna dick up nicely

    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
    Nipswebguy20KhraulWhelkBloodySlothElvenshaeCalicaJandaru
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    edited February 29
    Pretty quick repost, but I finished Kairos today after a big push last night and this morning. The base doesn't show up correctly in pics, but it's got a cool blue to pink colorshift going on. I was tempted to hit the whole model with it, but I think I'm going to hold off. Basing with some quick and dirty GW product this time was so much easier than that resin base on the great unclean one.

    There's a few little things I don't like that I've done with this model, but I think that might just be part of the hobby.

    All in all I'm pretty happy.

    44sarnrsmfwd.jpg
    cfabyyplgbdi.jpg
    fk0g3wrokufm.jpg

    Khraul on
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited February 29
    J wrote: »
    Don't judge the rats till you've done a whole bunch. Make sure you base them first too.

    Also his left arm you've gone over with teal but it's furry. :)

    Can't believe I missed the left arm. Thank you for saying something. I tried to do the fur white but I'm not sure it came out how I really wanted but luckily I have 79 more plague monks to paint so I'm sure at some point it will come out how I want it.

    I also might add more stormhost silver to the blades.

    For the base I was thinking of a kind of warpstone cracked earth thing. I'm thinking of painting the base randomly in warpstone colors and then adding the black crackle paint. Each clan was going to have their own color essentially. Skryre are gonna be blue or orange depending on the color I go with for them.
    t354Ya2.jpg
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    cq0WILs.jpg
    idiB3wc.jpg

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    KhraulHermanoH3Knuckleswebguy20BrainleechNipsDayspring
  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    So still pretty early on with detail painting, but I just want to say I think I nailed the eye stalks. I was going to do a skin colored wash over the veins but I think I'm not. I just love how they pop.

    3f72iujaue1q.jpg

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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    edited March 1
    I've got a boatload of flesh eater court to paint, and that's probably going to be my next project, but I'm also trying to figure a paint scheme for my space wolves.

    I don't like the robin egg blue that they typically are... I can't decide between a dark to medium Grey or a dark grey blue

    To work towards a decision I've done two things
    1) post about it here in the hope that thoughts into text will help me decide
    2) order some new Vallejo paints that I might fall in love with as soon as I see them... A variety of dark Grey's and blues

    Khraul on
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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Pretty done with this test model. Gonna do a dry brush of incubi darkness on the base and then do black around the rim and calling the test model complete. Pretty happy with how it came out. This is gonna kind of suck though, more detail and precision work than I wanted.
    sekDJns.jpg
    cF8HUga.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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  • TheGerbilTheGerbil Registered User regular
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited March 2
    Cross posting, final post of this plague monk. I did the rim in warpstone green. Just need to figure out what varnish to use. I'm not sure and would appreciate suggestions.

    Gonna finish that terrain I started before I go into full paint mode on my plague monks.
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    What are some good colors for Skaven themed terrain? I plan on doing my warcry starter terrain in this theme.

    Stragint on
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  • JJ Rabbit GangmemberRegistered User regular
    I'm not a fan of the rim in green, its fighting for my eyes attention over the mini. Everything else is rad and seems easily duplicated for the horde.

    Terrain wise, match the sink holes you did already?

    Extreaminatushonovere
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited March 2
    J wrote: »
    I'm not a fan of the rim in green, its fighting for my eyes attention over the mini. Everything else is rad and seems easily duplicated for the horde.

    Terrain wise, match the sink holes you did already?

    Yea, I'm unsure of the green rim. I like it but it does feel kind of off. I just didn't really want to do black like I do with everything and I figured since the base color was warpstone green I'd do the rim to. I don't know though, like I said I do like it but I can see it being a bit off. I'm leaning towards keeping it though.

    Sink holes? Do you mean the gnawholes? I did the swirly warp energy in them fluorescent but I don't think I'd be able to apply anything like that on the warcry terrain.

    Stragint on
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    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

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  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Beholder is done, working on the base right now. I think it turned out quite well. Didnt end up doing the dry skin look, there would have been too many big patches. I ended up painting red “sores” over some of the printer errors.

    These have been uploaded on mobile so please yell at me if they’re too big.

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    Steam ID: Webguy20
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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Neat but since you have some of the Nolzur's D&D minis I had a few questions. I know they say it's pre primed. I have the Aasimar fighter one that I plan on painting when it gets warmer
    But you can just slap on the paint as it would be primed?

  • webguy20webguy20 I Spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Neat but since you have some of the Nolzur's D&D minis I had a few questions. I know they say it's pre primed. I have the Aasimar fighter one that I plan on painting when it gets warmer
    But you can just slap on the paint as it would be primed?

    I wash them just like i would an unpainted mini before priming but yes otherwise i paint right on them.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
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  • TheGerbilTheGerbil Registered User regular
    I tried my hand at converting stormcast paladins to Chaos Chosen for AoS.

    Here is the first model I painted: (Album is here)

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    uNwWAHDh.jpg


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  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    That beholder could definitely use some Visine!

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    Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Them dick veins tho.

    PSN: Dr_Keenbean LIVE: Dr Keenbean Battle.net Drkeenbean#1951
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  • TheGerbilTheGerbil Registered User regular
    One thing I will say about Stormcast Paladins is they have a shitload of lightning bolts on them. So much filing.


  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    edited March 4
    Them dick veins tho.

    It also works for Snickers
    ubakbv9eq0e6.jpg

    Extreaminatus on
    Preacher wrote: »
    There are plenty of people out there that believe in white supremacy and sweet sweet big foot dick.
  • Golden YakGolden Yak Burnished Bovine The PIT, level 26Registered User regular
    Okay. ...okay.
    It sort've makes sense when you read the last couple of posts.

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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Any opinions on scale 75 paint?

    I typically use Vallejo and GW, but I saw a project online I'd like to replicate on some armor but it uses a really specific color (decayed metal) that I can't seem to find outside of a $40 set (alchemy something or other).

    I'm sure I could find a use for the rest of the metallics in the set, but I don't really want to splash out $40 plus shipping without knowing what I'm getting.

    I'm also stuck at work and can't watch youtube review tonight :lol:

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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    edited March 4
    Scale75 metallics are the absolute tits; probably some of the best available.

    The rest of the range is great too, the caveat being that they're gel-based so a wet palette is a good idea and they dry incredibly matte which is not to many tastes. Coverage is decent and they thin well but it can be tricky to find the right balance for what you want to do. They tend to not separate nearly so much as Vallejo.

    They also do a Fantasy & Games range that dries more satin. The black from that range is probably the best black I've ever used. The metallics and inks are shared between the ranges.

    EDIT: are you in the US? Hit up Competition Minis, he does free shipping on orders over $49 and carries, like, all the paint.

    Dr_Keenbean on
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    Khraul
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Well hell, that's the review I was looking for. I really don't like GW metallics for the most part. I've gotten a ton of mileage from some of the Vallejo line... good to hear scale is better than that.

    I've never used a gel based paint... do you still thin with water or would airbrush thinner or lahmian medium be a better option?

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
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