Contrast paints work great with metallics (many YouTube videos attest to this if you want visual evidence of how they look) but I don’t think the range includes the exact hue you had there.
Yeah, the contrast blues are all way more vibrant. To get that smokey blue, you'd probably have to mix in some grey
It might look like a smokey blue because of how intensely dusty those models were.
I think the metal look I'm trying for is too dark to make the blue show well though.
This is gloss black primer, black metal, 2 washes of gloss nuln, and then talassar blue.
This is gloss black primer, black metal, black templar, and talassar blue.
Really leaning towards the first one. Tried to get the best picture I could.
Me too. That first one has a really incredible anodized titanium look, imho.
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Painted up a second test model to try orange and it doesn't really look orange which is kind of a bummer.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
So looking for some quick tips and tricks for some Age of Sigmar modelling
Trying to attach a model to its base, but the top of the base is a roughed texture and not smooth, and the bottom of the models feet were where it attached to the sprue so I can’t tell if they are fully flat or have a slight crease.
The model will stand and balance properly on its own, but when I tried applying glue, it wouldn’t adhere to the base.
Should I use an nail file / Emory board on the feet to try and smooth them? Or maybe use an intermediary like tissue paper?
Also having some issues with the snap together models where the shoulder pauldrons are split down the middle with each half being on different parts and after snapping them together per the instructions the shoulders don’t form a nice smooth piece and still have a minor to moderate gap between the two pieces.
For the press fit models, I started shaving down the pegs so the halves press together with basically no friction. I then plastic cement them together. There's still a line where the halves meet, but no or next to no gap.
+1
Options
Halos Nach TariffCan you blame me?I'm too famous.Registered Userregular
When fitting to the bases make sure to dry-fit the pieces first without any glue so you know where the feet/legs need to go, assuming you're talking about the underworlds models you mentioned in the AoS thread they are designed to only fit on the base in one location, but sometimes it can be a little tricky to see exactly where! Filing down any bits of excess sprue that's not been totally clipped to make sure the fit is smooth is a good idea, then just hold it flush to the base with some plastic glue or 60 seconds or so and you should be good.
I'm not a huge fan of the push-fit design they use for the underworlds models, as you've noted on the bigger pieces you sometimes get pretty big gaps, and it's hard to jimmy the pieces back apart to fix it once you've tried to squeeze them together. I've found it easier sometimes to just clip off the little push-fit pegs and glue the pieces as if it were a normal miniature.
+1
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Speaking of bases, I need to 80 32mm for my Necron warriors. Does anyone know a place that sells bases in bulk at a good price and fast?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The base problem is actually with a non Underworld model, so it’s just a standard base with the slight rough texture on top that I’m trying to attach.
Also, I forgot to ask earlier, for primer, when I last did modeling I just used some Citadel spray on primer, but now I’m seeing some paint on primers? Any tips for which to use or what colour to use? I’m thinking of going with a white primer after seeing other people’s work where that gave brighter colours
But you have to prepare the surface of the mdf if you want paint directly on it.
Speaking of.
Do any of you have any experiance with mdf terrain?
Over the last few year I have bought between on and two feet of lasercut buildings, with the idea being that it would be fast and cheap.
The problem is that mdf soaks up a lot of paint if you don't put down a base layer to seal it. And the guides I have read/seen the mdf puffs up a bit and needs sanding.
In my mind I could avoid this if I could get something to sit on top without soaking in.
I'm thinking about doing a test where I spray mat varnish from a rattle can, but do any of you have any experiance that says this won't work?
Nought on
On fire
.
Island. Being on fire.
0
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
But you have to prepare the surface of the mdf if you want paint directly on it.
Speaking of.
Do any of you have any experiance with mdf terrain?
Over the last few year I have bought between on and two feet of lasercut buildings, with the idea being that it would be fast and cheap.
The problem is that mdf soaks up a lot of paint if you don't put down a base layer to seal it. And the guides I have read/seen the mdf puffs up a bit and needs sanding.
In my mind I could avoid this if I could get something to sit on top without soaking in.
I'm thinking about doing a test where I spray mat varnish from a rattle can, but do any of you have any experiance that says this won't work?
Base extenders are a thing, right? That might be easier but I have no idea who sells those.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Do any of you have any experiance with mdf terrain?
Over the last few year I have bought between on and two feet of lasercut buildings, with the idea being that it would be fast and cheap.
The problem is that mdf soaks up a lot of paint if you don't put down a base layer to seal it. And the guides I have read/seen the mdf puffs up a bit and needs sanding.
In my mind I could avoid this if I could get something to sit on top without soaking in.
I'm thinking about doing a test where I spray mat varnish from a rattle can, but do any of you have any experiance that says this won't work?
Use an enamel based rattle can, like most of the Tamiya ones, and you shouldn't have much trouble. I've done MDF both ways, sealing with lacquer and straight to spray, and after painting I can't tell which is which. Just make sure you spray all the exposed surfaces, and get a good solid coat on it.
Tri-Optimum reminds you that there are only one-hundred-sixty-three shopping days until Christmas. Just 1 extra work cycle twice a week will give you the spending money you need to make this holiday a very special one.
0
Options
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Painted up a second test model to try orange and it doesn't really look orange which is kind of a bummer.
You could probably get a nice orange with a gold base, but then you'd have to repaint all the silver parts. Maybe a bit too much work.
edit: I really like the effect on the torso in the second picture. It looks like polished metal reflecting the ground. I bet you could achieve that effect on purpose with a nadir spray of the orange from over the metal base
The base problem is actually with a non Underworld model, so it’s just a standard base with the slight rough texture on top that I’m trying to attach.
Also, I forgot to ask earlier, for primer, when I last did modeling I just used some Citadel spray on primer, but now I’m seeing some paint on primers? Any tips for which to use or what colour to use? I’m thinking of going with a white primer after seeing other people’s work where that gave brighter colours
I use black primer for most things, except when I'm doing contrast; then it's cream or very light grey.
I usually use rattle-can primer, and brush-on for spots I didn't catch with the can. (I on occassion also just to brush-on.) It doesn't have to be GW brand.
But if you are using a rattle-can, for god's sake to it outdoors. The fumes are highly toxic. I use a mask, too, and a giant empty cardboard box to place the models in when spraying so I don't paint my veranda, too.
I have painted my first space mans in approximately a decade
They're not great by any means but I'm pretty happy with them considering how long it's been since I painted anything
They look great! How are you thinking of basing them? IMHO you always are harder on your models until they're based because they "feel" unfinished.
I'm not sure yet because I still haven't decided which colour scheme I'm going to commit to, Alpha Legion or Word Bearers. I'm thinking something a bit more subdued if I settle on Alpha Legion, because that teal really pops, and something a bit lighter if I go with Word Bearers
Wasn't too sure about my Squig herd but I'm actually pretty pleased with how the Loonboss turned out. I wanted to write "pretty chuffed" and I have no idea why, not British.
+15
Options
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Finished the 6 Acolytes. Only got a picture of 5 of them.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm trying to make use of my time while furloughed. Its beyond hot in the UK just now though and its killing me.
I used a tamiya metal on this dude as a basecoat and I find the flecks are a little large for my tastes. I also managed to grab some of the skeleton horde and dunes contrast paints, which im told will make my b1 droids a snap.
Speaking of bases, I need to 80 32mm for my Necron warriors. Does anyone know a place that sells bases in bulk at a good price and fast?
Check public library 3d printing services if you can't find anything reasonably priced? Bulk bases would take forever to print, but 3d printers have been a godsend for my base needs. I think Arachnarok bases are going for like ~18$ and printing 3 of them for like buck or two each in material has paid for 1/3rd of my printer alone. (Sorry if this isnt super helpful(because 3d printing becomes a hobby to maintain itself that some dont want to venture into and I dont blame them).
Someone mentioned MDF, I generally don't like the look and I thought that unless the whole army was done in them they wouldn't look similar enough to plastic ones. But online or a local shop could cut those for you really cheap/er.
Snippet from my current project. Skin is fun to paint.
+17
Options
webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
Fuck me. I was part of that Scale 75 kickstarter, and as part of the add-on process you can order any of their current paint sets for 25% off. I ended up getting the 48 color fantasy games set and the 8 color velvet skin set.
I'm going to have ALOT of paint here later this year.
Fuck me. I was part of that Scale 75 kickstarter, and as part of the add-on process you can order any of their current paint sets for 25% off. I ended up getting the 48 color fantasy games set and the 8 color velvet skin set.
I'm going to have ALOT of paint here later this year.
6 of the 8 paints in the velvet skin set are already in the fantasy & games set. You'd be better off getting the non-fantasy flesh set which would give you the other 2 plus more and no doubles. Or neither because the fantasy & games set has all the flesh colors you need. A metallic set would probably be best as the fantasy range has none.
I haven't made my choices yet. I'm sitting here debating how hard I want to go into the artist colors while I can get them dirt cheap. It looks like we also get 10% off everything on their site for the next year too.
Fuck me. I was part of that Scale 75 kickstarter, and as part of the add-on process you can order any of their current paint sets for 25% off. I ended up getting the 48 color fantasy games set and the 8 color velvet skin set.
I'm going to have ALOT of paint here later this year.
6 of the 8 paints in the velvet skin set are already in the fantasy & games set. You'd be better off getting the non-fantasy flesh set which would give you the other 2 plus more and no doubles. Or neither because the fantasy & games set has all the flesh colors you need. A metallic set would probably be best as the fantasy range has none.
I haven't made my choices yet. I'm sitting here debating how hard I want to go into the artist colors while I can get them dirt cheap. It looks like we also get 10% off everything on their site for the next year too.
Already have a metalics set. I might just drop the skins set then.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Is there a good way to paint like an industrial flooring look on bases? I bought a 6x4 mat and I want my Necrons to match it but I also don't want to try to get them off their bases cause their spindly little twig legs break with a stiff breeze.
Play mat for reference.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I would paint directly on the basecoated base. Some different grey's, either drybrushes or randomly wet in wet. Maybe start lighter and a light brownish wash over it for a grimey look. Done?
I'll put some photos together for the bit of skin I do tomorrow, but it's basically:
-Basecolour with Kislev Flesh
-Wash with Reikland fleshshade
-Highlight with 2:1 mix of Kislev Flesh and Screaming Skull
-Mid tone blend with pure Kislev Flesh
-Extreme highlight with pure Screaming Skull
-Use Bloodletter Glaze to pick out the "blushed" parts (very important!)
-Pick out the grosses pimples and boyles with Screaming Skull again.
@Stragint I have been thinking about getting a double sided mat from EU gamemats for a few years.
One of my concerns is whether the printing on the back means it can slide around, or if the size of the mat holds it down.
My only experiance with that type of mat has been x-wing. And while the mat was great to roll dice on, and the mousepad backing held it firm, we did experiance that the top was a bit too slippery to keep the bases from sliding.
Posts
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Me too. That first one has a really incredible anodized titanium look, imho.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Trying to attach a model to its base, but the top of the base is a roughed texture and not smooth, and the bottom of the models feet were where it attached to the sprue so I can’t tell if they are fully flat or have a slight crease.
The model will stand and balance properly on its own, but when I tried applying glue, it wouldn’t adhere to the base.
Should I use an nail file / Emory board on the feet to try and smooth them? Or maybe use an intermediary like tissue paper?
Also having some issues with the snap together models where the shoulder pauldrons are split down the middle with each half being on different parts and after snapping them together per the instructions the shoulders don’t form a nice smooth piece and still have a minor to moderate gap between the two pieces.
MWO: Adamski
I'm not a huge fan of the push-fit design they use for the underworlds models, as you've noted on the bigger pieces you sometimes get pretty big gaps, and it's hard to jimmy the pieces back apart to fix it once you've tried to squeeze them together. I've found it easier sometimes to just clip off the little push-fit pegs and glue the pieces as if it were a normal miniature.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Also, I forgot to ask earlier, for primer, when I last did modeling I just used some Citadel spray on primer, but now I’m seeing some paint on primers? Any tips for which to use or what colour to use? I’m thinking of going with a white primer after seeing other people’s work where that gave brighter colours
MWO: Adamski
Something like this is probably the cheapest you can get.
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/inicio/266-mdf-wood-laser-cut-bases-round-32mm.html
But you have to prepare the surface of the mdf if you want paint directly on it.
Speaking of.
Do any of you have any experiance with mdf terrain?
Over the last few year I have bought between on and two feet of lasercut buildings, with the idea being that it would be fast and cheap.
The problem is that mdf soaks up a lot of paint if you don't put down a base layer to seal it. And the guides I have read/seen the mdf puffs up a bit and needs sanding.
In my mind I could avoid this if I could get something to sit on top without soaking in.
I'm thinking about doing a test where I spray mat varnish from a rattle can, but do any of you have any experiance that says this won't work?
.
Island. Being on fire.
Base extenders are a thing, right? That might be easier but I have no idea who sells those.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Use an enamel based rattle can, like most of the Tamiya ones, and you shouldn't have much trouble. I've done MDF both ways, sealing with lacquer and straight to spray, and after painting I can't tell which is which. Just make sure you spray all the exposed surfaces, and get a good solid coat on it.
You can even find them on Etsy.
I feel like we've had this conversation before, but it also comes up so often, who knows.
Get two spring arm desk lamps, three if you really want to hit all angles. I've seen them on sale for $10 each.
Buy a pack of daylight bulbs.
Get some tracing paper.
Use a sheet, or t-shirt, or anything that works as a backdrop to use as a backdrop.
You could probably get a nice orange with a gold base, but then you'd have to repaint all the silver parts. Maybe a bit too much work.
edit: I really like the effect on the torso in the second picture. It looks like polished metal reflecting the ground. I bet you could achieve that effect on purpose with a nadir spray of the orange from over the metal base
I use black primer for most things, except when I'm doing contrast; then it's cream or very light grey.
I usually use rattle-can primer, and brush-on for spots I didn't catch with the can. (I on occassion also just to brush-on.) It doesn't have to be GW brand.
But if you are using a rattle-can, for god's sake to it outdoors. The fumes are highly toxic. I use a mask, too, and a giant empty cardboard box to place the models in when spraying so I don't paint my veranda, too.
They're not great by any means but I'm pretty happy with them considering how long it's been since I painted anything
I'm not sure yet because I still haven't decided which colour scheme I'm going to commit to, Alpha Legion or Word Bearers. I'm thinking something a bit more subdued if I settle on Alpha Legion, because that teal really pops, and something a bit lighter if I go with Word Bearers
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
He is giving that squig such a pinch to hang onto it.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I know, I almost want to suggest lightening the squigflesh in and around the bosses grip to help show that.
MWO: Adamski
I used a tamiya metal on this dude as a basecoat and I find the flecks are a little large for my tastes. I also managed to grab some of the skeleton horde and dunes contrast paints, which im told will make my b1 droids a snap.
Check public library 3d printing services if you can't find anything reasonably priced? Bulk bases would take forever to print, but 3d printers have been a godsend for my base needs. I think Arachnarok bases are going for like ~18$ and printing 3 of them for like buck or two each in material has paid for 1/3rd of my printer alone. (Sorry if this isnt super helpful(because 3d printing becomes a hobby to maintain itself that some dont want to venture into and I dont blame them).
Someone mentioned MDF, I generally don't like the look and I thought that unless the whole army was done in them they wouldn't look similar enough to plastic ones. But online or a local shop could cut those for you really cheap/er.
I'm going to have ALOT of paint here later this year.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
6 of the 8 paints in the velvet skin set are already in the fantasy & games set. You'd be better off getting the non-fantasy flesh set which would give you the other 2 plus more and no doubles. Or neither because the fantasy & games set has all the flesh colors you need. A metallic set would probably be best as the fantasy range has none.
I haven't made my choices yet. I'm sitting here debating how hard I want to go into the artist colors while I can get them dirt cheap. It looks like we also get 10% off everything on their site for the next year too.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Already have a metalics set. I might just drop the skins set then.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
+ Configuration +
List Configuration: Matched Play: Kill Team
+ Leader [17pts] +
Incursor Sergeant [17pts]: *No Chapter*, Bolt pistol, Frag and krak grenades, Occulus bolt carbine, Paired combat blades
. Leader: Level 1: Resourceful
+ Specialists [65pts] +
Intercessor Sergeant [24pts]: *No Chapter*, Auto bolt rifle, Bolt pistol, Frag grenades, Krak grenades, Thunder hammer [8pts]
. Medic: Level 1: Reassuring
Reiver Sergeant [18pts]: *No Chapter*, Combat knife, Frag grenades, Grapnel Launcher [1pts], Heavy bolt pistol, Krak grenades, Shock grenades
. Combat: Level 1: Expert Fighter
Vanguard Sergeant [23pts]: *No Chapter*, Frag and krak grenades, Jump Pack [6pts], 2x Lightning claw [3pts]
. Zealot: Level 1: Frenzied
+ Non-specialists [43pts] +
Tactical Sergeant [16pts]: *No Chapter*, Frag grenades, Krak grenades, Plasma pistol [1pts], Power sword [2pts]
Veteran Sergeant [27pts]: *No Chapter*, Frag and krak grenades, Storm shield [5pts], Thunder hammer [8pts]
++ Total: [125pts] ++
Created with BattleScribe (https://battlescribe.net)
I will post what my brother and I did the other day later
It is a pain in the ass that's why I was meh about getting pickles for my black templars
But have Duncan painting the Idoneth deepkin instead
Play mat for reference.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Or you could if any hobby shops were open.
Do you have an Instagram tutorial or written recipe for your pigskin on your porcine crew?
I'd like to aim for something similar on my maggotkin but I don't know where to start.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
-Basecolour with Kislev Flesh
-Wash with Reikland fleshshade
-Highlight with 2:1 mix of Kislev Flesh and Screaming Skull
-Mid tone blend with pure Kislev Flesh
-Extreme highlight with pure Screaming Skull
-Use Bloodletter Glaze to pick out the "blushed" parts (very important!)
-Pick out the grosses pimples and boyles with Screaming Skull again.
One of my concerns is whether the printing on the back means it can slide around, or if the size of the mat holds it down.
My only experiance with that type of mat has been x-wing. And while the mat was great to roll dice on, and the mousepad backing held it firm, we did experiance that the top was a bit too slippery to keep the bases from sliding.
.
Island. Being on fire.
He starts with a clean base, but I think you can use some of the ideas to fill in part of a base with a miniature already glued to it.
.
Island. Being on fire.