Szeras is on my List. It’s a very exclusive list so far; just him and Eldrad, but man does he deserve it.
That is all.
What?
Goddamn insane GW 3D puzzle characters. Szeras really raised the bar though:
Dude has six arms and they all overlap, somehow. That swirl of goo coming off the guy on the floor? The gunstaff laser bit is integral to it, like structurally, and worse, it’s also part of the fourth and final leg which is pinning the poor dissolving guy. Then the swirl in his upper left hand which is also attached to his lower right hand, his extra probe-arm, and, via a pipe, to the blackstone gubbins on his back.
Just wow; I mean it all comes together but it also means subassembly is right out so he’s going to be an absolute pain to paint.
I haven't clipped Szeras off the sprue yet but I've seen people posting WIP pictures with Szeras in sub assembly.
Then they have vastly more delicate fingers than I; nearly snapped the laser bit off the end of his staff just picking the sprue up. Did snap one of the tiny swirl bits in his hand but fortunately it went back on OK and connects to another bit so it’s stable. If people can repeatedly pick up and put down the individual pieces like that without breaking things, more power to ‘em.
Yea, the fiddly bits is part of why I haven't started with Szeras yet. I don't want to bust the model up.
Reminds me of that one model in Blackstone Fortress that broke a bunch.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I'm scared of any spindly flying GW model after using some Spirit Hosts to test a paint scheme
I have Lady olynder that I got just to paint but not built her yet as I am scared to
This is my problem about storage as models like Ynnead the resin necons {Szeras has broken a few times of his old model} The spiritseer's stave snaps often. Khinerai of the Dok and many others are the reason I need to look into storage because the old metal and plastic eldar the pistol case I had worked fine for years some of the newer eldar I need to find a different way
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Using the green stuff world texture rolling pins is a pain in the ass. It kept sticking even when wet so I sprayed it with the release agent I use for resin stuff and it still stuck. Also forgot to put on my face mask when spraying the release agent so that sucks and I'm feeling kind of paranoid.
Also decided to setup a mold for Scarab swarms so I can use them as detail for other models. Hopefully they come out well.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
When working with green stuff, I use a tube of chapstick on my tools, and that works really well for me. I'm sure you could smear it over a rolling pin all right. Or Vaseline.
Just checking it is actually greenstuff green stuff? My GSW roller works fucking great with Green Stuff provided I get it nice and wet, but has been a nightmare for other similar sculpting mediums and stuck like buggery.
Szeras is on my List. It’s a very exclusive list so far; just him and Eldrad, but man does he deserve it.
That is all.
What?
Goddamn insane GW 3D puzzle characters. Szeras really raised the bar though:
Dude has six arms and they all overlap, somehow. That swirl of goo coming off the guy on the floor? The gunstaff laser bit is integral to it, like structurally, and worse, it’s also part of the fourth and final leg which is pinning the poor dissolving guy. Then the swirl in his upper left hand which is also attached to his lower right hand, his extra probe-arm, and, via a pipe, to the blackstone gubbins on his back.
Just wow; I mean it all comes together but it also means subassembly is right out so he’s going to be an absolute pain to paint.
I haven't clipped Szeras off the sprue yet but I've seen people posting WIP pictures with Szeras in sub assembly.
Then they have vastly more delicate fingers than I; nearly snapped the laser bit off the end of his staff just picking the sprue up. Did snap one of the tiny swirl bits in his hand but fortunately it went back on OK and connects to another bit so it’s stable. If people can repeatedly pick up and put down the individual pieces like that without breaking things, more power to ‘em.
The plastic is that brittle?
0
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Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
Just checking it is actually greenstuff green stuff? My GSW roller works fucking great with Green Stuff provided I get it nice and wet, but has been a nightmare for other similar sculpting mediums and stuck like buggery.
It's all about finding what works best for your own process. I prefer astroglide and it's a hell of a lot more pleasant to work with then release agent.
Also, when was the last time I had less than one hundred pages between completed minis? I can't even remember. But I finished painting my relic contemptor dread. One of these days I'll stop being pissed about it being a recast - maybe once it's claimed enough kills to prove itself to me.
I've also engineered up a better way to rotate models than using a plastic container on top of a sheet of paper with alignment marks.
Okay, -slightly- better. :biggrin:
+12
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Szeras is on my List. It’s a very exclusive list so far; just him and Eldrad, but man does he deserve it.
That is all.
What?
Goddamn insane GW 3D puzzle characters. Szeras really raised the bar though:
Dude has six arms and they all overlap, somehow. That swirl of goo coming off the guy on the floor? The gunstaff laser bit is integral to it, like structurally, and worse, it’s also part of the fourth and final leg which is pinning the poor dissolving guy. Then the swirl in his upper left hand which is also attached to his lower right hand, his extra probe-arm, and, via a pipe, to the blackstone gubbins on his back.
Just wow; I mean it all comes together but it also means subassembly is right out so he’s going to be an absolute pain to paint.
I haven't clipped Szeras off the sprue yet but I've seen people posting WIP pictures with Szeras in sub assembly.
Then they have vastly more delicate fingers than I; nearly snapped the laser bit off the end of his staff just picking the sprue up. Did snap one of the tiny swirl bits in his hand but fortunately it went back on OK and connects to another bit so it’s stable. If people can repeatedly pick up and put down the individual pieces like that without breaking things, more power to ‘em.
The plastic is that brittle?
It’s that thin. The swirly bits in his hand are less than a mm thick, closer to half.
I'm scared of any spindly flying GW model after using some Spirit Hosts to test a paint scheme
I have Lady olynder that I got just to paint but not built her yet as I am scared to...
She is very delicate ayyye! The hand holding the staff is very petite and the flowers are very spindly but once she is actually built, she is like most of the other nighthaunt ghost models. Quite springy. Take your time and test fit each piece as you go. It'll be fine. Having been dabbling with scale models recently, GW models are by comparison. Very forgiving :P
Just checking it is actually greenstuff green stuff? My GSW roller works fucking great with Green Stuff provided I get it nice and wet, but has been a nightmare for other similar sculpting mediums and stuck like buggery.
It's all about finding what works best for your own process. I prefer astroglide and it's a hell of a lot more pleasant to work with then release agent.
Also, when was the last time I had less than one hundred pages between completed minis? I can't even remember. But I finished painting my relic contemptor dread. One of these days I'll stop being pissed about it being a recast - maybe once it's claimed enough kills to prove itself to me.
I've also engineered up a better way to rotate models than using a plastic container on top of a sheet of paper with alignment marks.
Okay, -slightly- better. :biggrin:
I honestly would not have noticed the plastic container with marks till you pointed it out to me. That is brilliant!
Gabriel_Pitt(effective against Russian warships)Registered Userregular
If you can remember back across the pages to my previous spinning models, they were always a little jumpy and inconsistent because I could never manually turn it without sliding it around a little. Then I thought 'a lazy susan costs as much as a pot of paint. So why haven't I gotten one and glued everything into position yet?'
If you can remember back across the pages to my previous spinning models, they were always a little jumpy and inconsistent because I could never manually turn it without sliding it around a little. Then I thought 'a lazy susan costs as much as a pot of paint. So why haven't I gotten one and glued everything into position yet?'
I honestly didn't notice much... Mainly because I know how pain in the rear it is to do this. I always assumed it was a motorized turning device.
That’s a really nice blue-grey; what’s your process/colours?
Thanks :biggrin:
Basecoat black
Arbrush zenithal from about 45 degrees above with vallejo air engine grey
Airbrush zenithal from above, and spot highlight with, GW administratum grey
Wash the whole model with a Windsor and Newton "paynes grey" oil wash. (Like, "fuck the whole thing up wash"... no tidy line and panel washing here)
Clean the whole thing up with q-tips dipped in white spirits
Spot and zenithal highlight with administratum grey to brighten things back up.
From there it's just metallics and details then a satin varnish so the oils stay set.
The goal is to be quick and easy to duplicate. Basecoats and oils took an evening after dinner, details/metallics I knocked out a couple nights ago in a few hours.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
I'll try using chapstick or vaseline next time I use the roller. As for the green stuff I bought a big roll from green stuff world so I don't know if it is real green stuff or knock off.
The texture I made came out decent enough, the plan is to break off pieces and put them on bases to make it look like buried Necron ruins. The resin mold for Necron scarabs also came out well enough since I plan on just having them crawling around over stuff as basing material. Some are definitely messed up but I'm going to paint those ones as battle damaged.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
+8
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Not giving up...
that thin coat of primer, 2 ultra thin coats of matte white, 2 coats of ultramarine blue.
(On the left you can see the poor red ranger, whose matte varnish over-application means I'm probably going to redo him)
i am gonna sign up for Duncan's painting academy. Also, I had an epiphany that I really was watering down my paints WAY too much and essentially making washes. I was loading my brush into water, usually when cleaning it of, and then adding that to the paints on the wet palette. Which was just making a runny nothing-burger.
I am not sure if you can see my paint strokes or if that's just the unevenness of the model. I really want to get a uniform blue.
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Ultramarine Blue is a Contrast paint. They're essentially heavy washes, designed to be painted on right from the pot. Don't thin it with water.
You're also going to have a lot of difficulty getting a uniform blue with a Contrast paint. Try a Layer (Calgar Blue) or Base (Macragge Blue). Base colours are heavy pigmented normal acrylic paints, designed to get a solid colour down in fewer coats. Layers are a bit thinner and less pigmented than Base colours, basically normal acrylic paints.
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Grrr. Stupid naming conventions.
Army Painter Ultramarine Blue. Trust me, not a contrast paint.
If you can remember back across the pages to my previous spinning models, they were always a little jumpy and inconsistent because I could never manually turn it without sliding it around a little. Then I thought 'a lazy susan costs as much as a pot of paint. So why haven't I gotten one and glued everything into position yet?'
I honestly didn't notice much... Mainly because I know how pain in the rear it is to do this. I always assumed it was a motorized turning device.
Various turntables are fairly cheap, but using containers you have on hand is free .99. :biggrin:
Also if you had a turntable you wouldn't need to stich a gif together and could just take a smoooth ass video.
I want to convert some spare reivers into wulfen but wulfen heads have little pits in their heads instead of nubs for necks like primaris heads.
I've got green stuff to make little balls for necks, but I've never really used green stuff.
Do I need to make the necks then leave them separate to dry then super glue them? Or does green stuff adhere enough to plastic that I can model everything and then just let it set in place?
I want to convert some spare reivers into wulfen but wulfen heads have little pits in their heads instead of nubs for necks like primaris heads.
I've got green stuff to make little balls for necks, but I've never really used green stuff.
Do I need to make the necks then leave them separate to dry then super glue them? Or does green stuff adhere enough to plastic that I can model everything and then just let it set in place?
I shape the green stuff, stick it all, green stuff and plastic parts, together like I'll want it in the final product, leave it to dry for a day, then carefully detach the green stuff from the model and super glue it to the plastic.
It won't really stick to the plastic when its dry except in so far as its worked into any crevices or whatever.
If you can remember back across the pages to my previous spinning models, they were always a little jumpy and inconsistent because I could never manually turn it without sliding it around a little. Then I thought 'a lazy susan costs as much as a pot of paint. So why haven't I gotten one and glued everything into position yet?'
I honestly didn't notice much... Mainly because I know how pain in the rear it is to do this. I always assumed it was a motorized turning device.
Various turntables are fairly cheap, but using containers you have on hand is free .99. :biggrin:
Also if you had a turntable you wouldn't need to stich a gif together and could just take a smoooth ass video.
Asking as someone who just bought a motorized turntable...
What's the best way to actually put together a video for online? Stuff like instagram/twitter or facebook are pretty good at just uploading/formatting right from your phone, but forums like this seem to dislike having formats like webm and the like. Even getting a gif conversion of a video was a massive pain in the ass.
I noodled around a bit, but stitching together a gif from a set of photos still seems like the way to go? Am I just being tech-illiterate? How do the kids these days do?
+1
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I ordered some of the Stirland Mud technical paint from GW to start sponging mud splatter on my tanks. Anyone have a good suggestion for a color to use for battle damage/wear on silver? Notably leadbelcher, which is the base color of the grav pads on my repulsors.
I ordered some of the Stirland Mud technical paint from GW to start sponging mud splatter on my tanks. Anyone have a good suggestion for a color to use for battle damage/wear on silver? Notably leadbelcher, which is the base color of the grav pads on my repulsors.
A brighter silver, like whatever Mithril Silver is called these days. If I want to do chipped, battle damaged metal my usual recipe is:
Base Leadbelcher
Wash Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade depending on desired filth level
Apply chips/thin lines for sword blows with Mithril
If you want to be really fancy, do a think line of black or dark grey in the centre of the mithril chip or line to make it look really deep.
To give an example:
All the battle scars on The Mountain are just mithril over washed down leadbelcher.
The ding on Obryn's chest is a a larger patch of mithril I've then filled in with black to make it look like a deep dent
Runefang Steel, or something like it, as a highlight is pretty perfect for wear and tear on any darker metal
Styrofoam Sammich on
+1
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited July 2020
Tried to find the parts to use a .15mm or .18mm needle on my airbrush and it looks like I'm gonna have to buy a whole new airbrush if I want to have a needle that small.
Kind of a bummer.
Found out today that my LGS is not going to be carrying vallejo paints anymore and I've been waiting for them to restock the florescent. I guess it has something to do with issues ordering the paints. Gonna call the only other LGS I know of but it might just be better to order them since the LGS is 36 miles away and I'm not sure that drive is worth it.
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
I've heard from two different local game stores that they've had problems ordering stuff from Vallejo
gt: Bobby2Socks | steam: Billy Boot-Snatcher
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
edited July 2020
Tried my hand at masking off some lines last night for the doors on my Repulsor:
Overall happy with the result. There was a tiny bit of bleed through on the bottom where it was tough to get the tape completely tight, but I can easily correct it with a brush. The lines also aren't perfectly straight on one, and not perfectly equal in size...but since they are on opposite sides of the tank, and there will be decals over the area, I highly doubt anyone but me and my perfectionism will notice.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Is the brass primer GW used for the Indomitus Necrons not going on sale yet? They have it up for pre order in a pot but not the primer.
I'm also considering buying a whole new set of brushes, would getting that expensive set from GW with all the brushes be worth it or should I looking into other brushes?
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Is the brass primer GW used for the Indomitus Necrons not going on sale yet? They have it up for pre order in a pot but not the primer.
I'm also considering buying a whole new set of brushes, would getting that expensive set from GW with all the brushes be worth it or should I looking into other brushes?
Windsor and Newton kolinsky series 7 brushes are the light.
GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I swear by my Series 7s. I have the 1, 0, and 00 and they are all I've found I really need. Get some good brush soap and they'll last for a really long time. I use The Masters Brush Cleaner, it comes in a brown tub with old timey writing.
I've used both the W&N Series7 and Rosemary and Co Series 33, the latter has slightly longer bristles. Both extremely good and last for a very long time if cared for. I think the W&N ones are harder to come by across in the states based on folks experiences in this thread? Raphael 8404's are supposed to be good too. Next time I am in the market, ill probably try the Artis Opus ones, just because white.
Here is a pretty decednt list of kolinsky brushes and how they compare.
+1
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GnomeTankWhat the what?Portland, OregonRegistered Userregular
I got my Series 7s at Blick Art Supply. I live less than a mile from one so I just went down and grabbed some. I've heard they can be hard to order online here in the states, but I've never really tried so I can't confirm or deny.
Posts
Yea, the fiddly bits is part of why I haven't started with Szeras yet. I don't want to bust the model up.
Reminds me of that one model in Blackstone Fortress that broke a bunch.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
I have Lady olynder that I got just to paint but not built her yet as I am scared to
This is my problem about storage as models like Ynnead the resin necons {Szeras has broken a few times of his old model} The spiritseer's stave snaps often. Khinerai of the Dok and many others are the reason I need to look into storage because the old metal and plastic eldar the pistol case I had worked fine for years some of the newer eldar I need to find a different way
Also decided to setup a mold for Scarab swarms so I can use them as detail for other models. Hopefully they come out well.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
The plastic is that brittle?
It's all about finding what works best for your own process. I prefer astroglide and it's a hell of a lot more pleasant to work with then release agent.
Also, when was the last time I had less than one hundred pages between completed minis? I can't even remember. But I finished painting my relic contemptor dread. One of these days I'll stop being pissed about it being a recast - maybe once it's claimed enough kills to prove itself to me.
I've also engineered up a better way to rotate models than using a plastic container on top of a sheet of paper with alignment marks.
Okay, -slightly- better. :biggrin:
It’s that thin. The swirly bits in his hand are less than a mm thick, closer to half.
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
She is very delicate ayyye! The hand holding the staff is very petite and the flowers are very spindly but once she is actually built, she is like most of the other nighthaunt ghost models. Quite springy. Take your time and test fit each piece as you go. It'll be fine. Having been dabbling with scale models recently, GW models are by comparison. Very forgiving :P
I honestly would not have noticed the plastic container with marks till you pointed it out to me. That is brilliant!
Steam: betsuni7
I honestly didn't notice much... Mainly because I know how pain in the rear it is to do this. I always assumed it was a motorized turning device.
Steam: betsuni7
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
That's a personal first
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
Thanks :biggrin:
Basecoat black
Arbrush zenithal from about 45 degrees above with vallejo air engine grey
Airbrush zenithal from above, and spot highlight with, GW administratum grey
Wash the whole model with a Windsor and Newton "paynes grey" oil wash. (Like, "fuck the whole thing up wash"... no tidy line and panel washing here)
Clean the whole thing up with q-tips dipped in white spirits
Spot and zenithal highlight with administratum grey to brighten things back up.
From there it's just metallics and details then a satin varnish so the oils stay set.
The goal is to be quick and easy to duplicate. Basecoats and oils took an evening after dinner, details/metallics I knocked out a couple nights ago in a few hours.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
The texture I made came out decent enough, the plan is to break off pieces and put them on bases to make it look like buried Necron ruins. The resin mold for Necron scarabs also came out well enough since I plan on just having them crawling around over stuff as basing material. Some are definitely messed up but I'm going to paint those ones as battle damaged.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
that thin coat of primer, 2 ultra thin coats of matte white, 2 coats of ultramarine blue.
(On the left you can see the poor red ranger, whose matte varnish over-application means I'm probably going to redo him)
i am gonna sign up for Duncan's painting academy. Also, I had an epiphany that I really was watering down my paints WAY too much and essentially making washes. I was loading my brush into water, usually when cleaning it of, and then adding that to the paints on the wet palette. Which was just making a runny nothing-burger.
I am not sure if you can see my paint strokes or if that's just the unevenness of the model. I really want to get a uniform blue.
You're also going to have a lot of difficulty getting a uniform blue with a Contrast paint. Try a Layer (Calgar Blue) or Base (Macragge Blue). Base colours are heavy pigmented normal acrylic paints, designed to get a solid colour down in fewer coats. Layers are a bit thinner and less pigmented than Base colours, basically normal acrylic paints.
Army Painter Ultramarine Blue. Trust me, not a contrast paint.
Various turntables are fairly cheap, but using containers you have on hand is free .99. :biggrin:
Also if you had a turntable you wouldn't need to stich a gif together and could just take a smoooth ass video.
I've got green stuff to make little balls for necks, but I've never really used green stuff.
Do I need to make the necks then leave them separate to dry then super glue them? Or does green stuff adhere enough to plastic that I can model everything and then just let it set in place?
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
I shape the green stuff, stick it all, green stuff and plastic parts, together like I'll want it in the final product, leave it to dry for a day, then carefully detach the green stuff from the model and super glue it to the plastic.
It won't really stick to the plastic when its dry except in so far as its worked into any crevices or whatever.
Asking as someone who just bought a motorized turntable...
What's the best way to actually put together a video for online? Stuff like instagram/twitter or facebook are pretty good at just uploading/formatting right from your phone, but forums like this seem to dislike having formats like webm and the like. Even getting a gif conversion of a video was a massive pain in the ass.
I noodled around a bit, but stitching together a gif from a set of photos still seems like the way to go? Am I just being tech-illiterate? How do the kids these days do?
A brighter silver, like whatever Mithril Silver is called these days. If I want to do chipped, battle damaged metal my usual recipe is:
Base Leadbelcher
Wash Nuln Oil/Agrax Earthshade depending on desired filth level
Apply chips/thin lines for sword blows with Mithril
If you want to be really fancy, do a think line of black or dark grey in the centre of the mithril chip or line to make it look really deep.
To give an example:
All the battle scars on The Mountain are just mithril over washed down leadbelcher.
The ding on Obryn's chest is a a larger patch of mithril I've then filled in with black to make it look like a deep dent
Kind of a bummer.
Found out today that my LGS is not going to be carrying vallejo paints anymore and I've been waiting for them to restock the florescent. I guess it has something to do with issues ordering the paints. Gonna call the only other LGS I know of but it might just be better to order them since the LGS is 36 miles away and I'm not sure that drive is worth it.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
You talk clean and bomb hospitals, so I speak with the foulest mouth possible
Overall happy with the result. There was a tiny bit of bleed through on the bottom where it was tough to get the tape completely tight, but I can easily correct it with a brush. The lines also aren't perfectly straight on one, and not perfectly equal in size...but since they are on opposite sides of the tank, and there will be decals over the area, I highly doubt anyone but me and my perfectionism will notice.
God I bet there are 3d printer files to print the damn things.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
I'm also considering buying a whole new set of brushes, would getting that expensive set from GW with all the brushes be worth it or should I looking into other brushes?
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Windsor and Newton kolinsky series 7 brushes are the light.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Here is a pretty decednt list of kolinsky brushes and how they compare.