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Painting Thread a retrospective

16791112

Posts

  • CalicaCalica Registered User regular
    Question for the thread: I backed Tsuro: Phoenix Rising on Kickstarter, and I want to reshape and paint the phoenix playing pieces that came with it. This update has a close-up of one (well, a prototype; but if there's a difference between that and what's in the box I can't see it). In the photo, the wings point straight up. On the actual pieces I have, the wings are all bent slightly inward, so that the wingtips touch. The creators suggest dunking the models in hot water and then straightening them out, but I want to go further and bend them out a bit so they look more natural.

    I'm not sure what exactly they're made of, but they look and feel kind of cheap - both more flexible and less detailed/more blurry than GW minis. That may be a good thing, because the wings will definitely flex to the position I want them in; they just won't stay there on their own. Question is, will the plastic get brittle or something if I try to force it into a shape other than how it was molded? Is it even possible to get plastic to do that without completely destroying the model?

    This is a low-stakes practice project - the phoenixes are, frankly, kind of ugly; and I won't be too torn up if I break one or two. Super glue exists and I'm unlikely to ever play this with a full 8 players anyway. I have very little idea what I'm doing, though :smile:

    Jedoc wrote: »
    The GOP cares about babies until they're born, soldiers until they're in need of care, and families until they interfere with stockholder dividends.
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Asher wrote: »
    If you're set on airbrushing the fur, get some liquid mask. Then do the fur first, then mask it off while you paint the rest of the model, then remove the mask when you're done.

    That could definitely work. Does it come off pretty easy without pulling off paint?

    Also got more work done, was trying go finish at least the armigers tonight but it was a lot more than expected for small details.

    Also tried mixing nuln oil and leadbelcher for the ridged tubes on the head of my castellan. Looks alright but not what I was hoping for.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • MaydayMayday Cutting edge goblin tech Registered User regular
    If you're masking a glaze or a wash, it is absolutely recommended to varnish it first.

    BrainleechArcticLancerNips
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    edited November 3
    Calica wrote: »
    Question for the thread: I backed Tsuro: Phoenix Rising on Kickstarter, and I want to reshape and paint the phoenix playing pieces that came with it. This update has a close-up of one (well, a prototype; but if there's a difference between that and what's in the box I can't see it). In the photo, the wings point straight up. On the actual pieces I have, the wings are all bent slightly inward, so that the wingtips touch. The creators suggest dunking the models in hot water and then straightening them out, but I want to go further and bend them out a bit so they look more natural.

    I'm not sure what exactly they're made of, but they look and feel kind of cheap - both more flexible and less detailed/more blurry than GW minis. That may be a good thing, because the wings will definitely flex to the position I want them in; they just won't stay there on their own. Question is, will the plastic get brittle or something if I try to force it into a shape other than how it was molded? Is it even possible to get plastic to do that without completely destroying the model?

    This is a low-stakes practice project - the phoenixes are, frankly, kind of ugly; and I won't be too torn up if I break one or two. Super glue exists and I'm unlikely to ever play this with a full 8 players anyway. I have very little idea what I'm doing, though :smile:

    Soak in hot (like, out of a kettle) water until soft, bend into shape, and then dunk into ice water immediately afterward. Without knowing exactly what it's made out, it's probobly safe to guess it's some kind of polystyrene, which is a thermoplastic. It will get hard when it's cold, which is what will "lock in" your changes, and they should stay when it returns to room temperature.

    McGibs on
    website_header.jpg
    ElvenshaeCalicaJandaru
  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    McGibs wrote: »
    Calica wrote: »
    Question for the thread: I backed Tsuro: Phoenix Rising on Kickstarter, and I want to reshape and paint the phoenix playing pieces that came with it. This update has a close-up of one (well, a prototype; but if there's a difference between that and what's in the box I can't see it). In the photo, the wings point straight up. On the actual pieces I have, the wings are all bent slightly inward, so that the wingtips touch. The creators suggest dunking the models in hot water and then straightening them out, but I want to go further and bend them out a bit so they look more natural.

    I'm not sure what exactly they're made of, but they look and feel kind of cheap - both more flexible and less detailed/more blurry than GW minis. That may be a good thing, because the wings will definitely flex to the position I want them in; they just won't stay there on their own. Question is, will the plastic get brittle or something if I try to force it into a shape other than how it was molded? Is it even possible to get plastic to do that without completely destroying the model?

    This is a low-stakes practice project - the phoenixes are, frankly, kind of ugly; and I won't be too torn up if I break one or two. Super glue exists and I'm unlikely to ever play this with a full 8 players anyway. I have very little idea what I'm doing, though :smile:

    Soak in hot (like, out of a kettle) water until soft, bend into shape, and then dunk into ice water immediately afterward. Without knowing exactly what it's made out, it's probobly safe to guess it's some kind of polystyrene, which is a thermoplastic. It will get hard when it's cold, which is what will "lock in" your changes, and they should stay when it returns to room temperature.

    Also, be sure to give it enough time in the ice bath. You want to get all of the heat put into the plastic out to make sure it doesn't reset to its former resting shape.

    JXUBxMxP0QndjQUEnTwTxOkfKmx8kWNvuc-FUtbSz_23_DAhGKe7W9spFKLXAtkpTBqM8Dt6kQrv-rS69Hi3FheL3fays2xTeVUvWR7g5UyLHnFA0frGk1BC12GYdOSRn9lbaJB-uH0htiLPJMrc9cSRsIgk5Dx7jg9K8rJVfG43lkeAWxTgcolNscW9KO2UZjKT8GMbYAFgFvu2TaMoLH8LBA5p2pm6VNYRsQK3QGjCsze1TOv2yIbCazmDwCHmjiQxNDf6LHP35msyiXo3CxuWs9Y8DQvJjvj10kWaspRNlWHKjS5w9Y0KLuIkhQKOxgaDziG290v4zBmTi-i7OfDz-foqIqKzC9wTbn9i_uU87GRitmrNAJdzRRsaTW5VQu_XX_5gCN8XCoNyu5RWWVGTsjJuyezz1_NpFa903Uj2TnFqnL1wJ-RZiFAAd2Bdut-G1pdQtdQihsq2dx_BjtmtGC3KZRyylO1t2c12dhfb0rStq4v8pg46ciOcdtT_1qm85IgUmGd7AmgLxCFPb0xnxWZvr26G-oXSqrQdjKA1zNIInSowiHcbUO2O8S5LRJVR6vQiEg0fbGXw4vqJYEn917tnzHMh8r0xom8BLKMvoFDelk6wbEeNq8w8Eyu2ouGjEMIvvJcb2az2AKQ1uE_7gdatfKG2QdvfdSBRSc35MQ=w498-h80-no
    ArcticLancerCalicaElvenshae
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Mayday wrote: »
    If you're masking a glaze or a wash, it is absolutely recommended to varnish it first.

    Alright, I'll finish the armor and varnish it before I start on the fur.

    This is the result of the leadbelcher mixed with nuln oil. Not sure how I feel about it.

    5q2j5ld5102y.jpg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    Nuln oil has never made my Leadbelcher look brown or golden. That's weird.

    BrainleechExtreaminatus
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Nuln oil has never made my Leadbelcher look brown or golden. That's weird.

    The tube was the same gold color as the rest of the head so I think that is part of what happened. I should have probably done a base coat before applying the nuln oil mixed with leadbelcher.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I have used nuln oil on gold and it just dulled it
    6n9yictyxdkc.png
    2xtgyrrvkhso.png
    The same on leadbelcher
    My Akhelian King for the deepkin was painted with grey knight steel with the old green glaze done over
    a1840wjx1agt.png
    So I don't understand why it went wrong for you?

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited November 3
    I mixed the nuln oil with the leadbelcher and the applied it.

    I'm also not sure it went entirely wrong but I probably should have used more leadbelcher.

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I mixed the nuln oil with the leadbelcher and the applied it.

    I'm also not sure it went entirely wrong but I probably should have used more leadbelcher.

    Maybe you could dilute the leadbelcher with medium and then mix in the nuln oil As I think you just had a bad mix

    Stragint
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited November 4
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I mixed the nuln oil with the leadbelcher and the applied it.

    I'm also not sure it went entirely wrong but I probably should have used more leadbelcher.

    Maybe you could dilute the leadbelcher with medium and then mix in the nuln oil As I think you just had a bad mix

    Yea, I think you're right. I'll try diluting the leadbelcher first and see how it comes out. Hopefully I get it right this time so I don't feel compelled to clean the head off and start over.

    I want to be lazy and paint the white on the shoulder pads I'm working on with white scar or ceramite white but I really like how the the build up from celestra grey to ulthuan grey looks.
    ak27iid67bu9.jpeg

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • MatriasMatrias Registered User regular
    edited November 4
    A Disciple of Morkai. My take on what a Space Wolves Helix Adept would look like. Heavily inspired by the Gameday Wolf Priest model - Space Wolves don't have Apothecaries - Wolf Priests, their Chaplains, do the job, so I was trying to get something like a Junior Chaplain going here instead of a Junior Apothercary

    Trying to improve my sculpting with this model. Added a mohawk, modified a reiver helmet to have sharp wolfy teeth, and sculpted a second pelt over top the first.
    jsm9JVr.jpg

    KlInwny.jpg

    Matrias on
    3DS/Pokemon Friend Code - 2122-5878-9273 - Kyle
    BrainleechKhraulStraginthonovereVikingLord_AsmodeusDarkewolfeArcticLancerElvenshaeNipsExtreaminatusHalos Nach TariffCalicaDayspringironsizide
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I mixed the nuln oil with the leadbelcher and the applied it.

    I'm also not sure it went entirely wrong but I probably should have used more leadbelcher.

    Maybe you could dilute the leadbelcher with medium and then mix in the nuln oil As I think you just had a bad mix

    Yea, I think you're right. I'll try diluting the leadbelcher first and see how it comes out. Hopefully I get it right this time so I don't feel compelled to clean the head off and start over.

    I want to be lazy and paint the white on the shoulder pads I'm working on with white scar or ceramite white but I really like how the the build up from celestra grey to ulthuan grey looks.
    ak27iid67bu9.jpeg

    Celestra grey as a base then over with Ulthuan to white scar as a edge highlight is how I did that marble head that I messed up on
    kbbpud4lfgus.png

    I did my black templar shoulders with wraithguard with celestra and palid wych flesh as a highlight to do a different white on some

    A Dabble Of Thelonius
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I mixed the nuln oil with the leadbelcher and the applied it.

    I'm also not sure it went entirely wrong but I probably should have used more leadbelcher.

    Maybe you could dilute the leadbelcher with medium and then mix in the nuln oil As I think you just had a bad mix

    Yea, I think you're right. I'll try diluting the leadbelcher first and see how it comes out. Hopefully I get it right this time so I don't feel compelled to clean the head off and start over.

    I want to be lazy and paint the white on the shoulder pads I'm working on with white scar or ceramite white but I really like how the the build up from celestra grey to ulthuan grey looks.
    ak27iid67bu9.jpeg

    Celestra grey as a base then over with Ulthuan to white scar as a edge highlight is how I did that marble head that I messed up on
    kbbpud4lfgus.png

    I did my black templar shoulders with wraithguard with celestra and palid wych flesh as a highlight to do a different white on some

    I did part of my first knight's shoulder pad white by using celstra grey and ulthuan. It looks really nice but the video I watched said they do it so they can still highlight with white scar but I don't plan on highlighting the part I'm doing so I'm not sure it is worth it. I might just do white scar.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    White scar is really thin fyi

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited November 4
    Brainleech wrote: »
    White scar is really thin fyi

    Would ceramite white be better? Or maybe corax white?

    I'm honestly not sure what the difference between ceramite, corax, and white scar is.

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Brainleech wrote: »
    White scar is really thin fyi

    Would ceramite white be better? Or maybe corax white?

    I'm honestly not sure what the difference between ceramite, corax, and white scar is.

    Read the label as the layer paints are rather thin paints so they will lighten or such the paint under it

  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Nuln oil has never made my Leadbelcher look brown or golden. That's weird.

    The tube was the same gold color as the rest of the head so I think that is part of what happened. I should have probably done a base coat before applying the nuln oil mixed with leadbelcher.

    Can I ask why you're mixing the wash with the base paint? Why not just base with leadbelcher then wash after with nuln oil?

    akirasig.jpg
    valhalla130
  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    Presumeably to darken up the leadbelcher, without reducing the metalic look too much. There's a reason why I use Tamiya Gunmetal when I need a good dark metal base.

    Im this case, I might've tried a leadbelcher base with one or two black washes, and a light drybrush of.leadbelcher.

    BrainleechExtreaminatusvalhalla130
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Still experimenting with my haunted Chaos Warband "The Blessed" and trying out that rust pigment I'd ordered... really neat stuff.

    Happy with the rust, less happy with the verdigris. This HQ needed a little something extra, so I tried some blood technical. I think I like it


    96wcj9wy792s.jpg
    vu467qirom9y.jpg
    l42mot32akka.jpg
    Rust product spoilered
    zxan7twblpy2.jpg

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
    StragintBrainleechDarkewolfeNipsDiannaoChongIanatorWatchervalhalla130DayspringLord_AsmodeusKoregArcticLancer
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Presumeably to darken up the leadbelcher, without reducing the metalic look too much. There's a reason why I use Tamiya Gunmetal when I need a good dark metal base.

    Im this case, I might've tried a leadbelcher base with one or two black washes, and a light drybrush of.leadbelcher.

    Pretty much this. I saw a dreadnought where someone mixed nuln oil and leadbelcher and I really liked how it looked.

    So far my attempts have been very watery so maybe I'm using too much nuln oil. I could just use vallejo metallic burnt iron or gunmetal grey instead though.

    I think I am going to clean off the head and redo it though.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Decided to try and see if I could use isopropyl alcohol on an old tooth brush to clean off just the tubes on the castellan head. It was working but then I realized it was taking off the primer too so I just dunked it real quick and cleaned it off. Took like 5 minutes and it is entirely bare plastic, looks like it has never had paint on it.

    Kind of weird, never had a model come this clean. Maybe it is something with vallejo air paints that just come off real easy by cleaning this way.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    I can't decide on what other accent/weapon colors to use on this model/gang. I'm probably going to paint the metal plates on their backs in a bronze type color, but I wanted an undead red cross/apothecary look. Not sure what color to paint the gun casings, wasn't sure if I wanted more red or a third color for contrast. And yeah I need to work on the white balance on my phone camera, and was too lazy to whip out/charge an actual digital camera.

    RAZ13Gz.jpg

    akirasig.jpg
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited November 5
    I'd go for black. Kinda inverted black templars look. it's a colour combination that just works. I'd probably also paint the armour plates red or black then.

    honovere on
  • DaenrisDaenris Registered User regular
    Definitely not up to the standards of some of the awesome stuff in this thread, but my 8 year old daughter and I just painted our first mini together the other day. She was ecstatic about how it turned out. Need to touch up the ends of the tentacles a bit.
    ve100iojj1j1.jpg

    DarkewolfeStragintExtreaminatushonovereHalos Nach TariffNipsKhraulRiusElvenshaeDiannaoChongRedcoat-13ArcticLancervalhalla130BrainleechW2Mr_RoseDayspringEchosullijoMcGibsBouwsTCalicaA Dabble Of TheloniusLord_AsmodeusJandarumildlymorbid
  • valhalla130valhalla130 13 Dark Shield Perceives the GodsRegistered User regular
    You tell your 8 year old daughter that that is an awesome displacer beast and she should keep painting models!

    NipsMr_RoseKhraulEchoDaenrisHalos Nach TariffStragintBouwsTDiannaoChongIanatorArcticLancerironsizideLord_Asmodeusmildlymorbid
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited November 7
    I finally got into the mood to paint again and finished up some details I had been meaning to do. Next is the touch up phase.
    nssouyki4t1t.jpg
    8ys2sfmkb6hp.jpg

    Edit: The bottle of corax white I bought is literally just a blob in the center. The fuck is with white paint?

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    DiannaoChongvalhalla130
  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I finally got into the mood to paint again and finished up some details I had been meaning to do. Next is the touch up phase.
    nssouyki4t1t.jpg
    8ys2sfmkb6hp.jpg

    Edit: The bottle of corax white I bought is literally just a blob in the center. The fuck is with white paint?

    Don't paint with pure white :( Use a really light bone color, or extremely pale blue. Looking good though, I'll have to post the Space Wolves titan I've been working on.
    honovere wrote: »
    I'd go for black. Kinda inverted black templars look. it's a colour combination that just works. I'd probably also paint the armour plates red or black then.

    I forgot about White Scars! Time to steal-borrow some inspiration. Maybe a mix of reverse Black Templars and White Scars. Thanks for the tip.

    akirasig.jpg
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited November 7
    Almost done with the armigers. Just need to paint the eyes on the heads.

    I also fucked up kind of badly. Didn't realize the little hood part over the head goes on after the carapace is in place and I glued them to the carapace while painting so there goes my plan of entering them into a painting competition at my LGS in a diorama.

    The hood is part of the 3d printed stuff I bought so it is pretty brittle and I don't think I can remove it and get it into place. The parts hanging down already broke on each of the gold ones.
    hffvt3yhpcek.jpeg
    efvmkpuhj4un.jpeg
    tael9nmfiwcz.jpeg
    m9wp8psaoc3g.jpeg
    moxwgzkg5x8p.jpeg
    xzp98ef19lio.jpeg

    Stragint on
    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    KhraulNips
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I finally got into the mood to paint again and finished up some details I had been meaning to do. Next is the touch up phase.
    nssouyki4t1t.jpg
    8ys2sfmkb6hp.jpg

    Edit: The bottle of corax white I bought is literally just a blob in the center. The fuck is with white paint?

    Don't paint with pure white :( Use a really light bone color, or extremely pale blue. Looking good though, I'll have to post the Space Wolves titan I've been working on.
    honovere wrote: »
    I'd go for black. Kinda inverted black templars look. it's a colour combination that just works. I'd probably also paint the armour plates red or black then.

    I forgot about White Scars! Time to steal-borrow some inspiration. Maybe a mix of reverse Black Templars and White Scars. Thanks for the tip.

    I forgot about them, too.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    I guess I kind of fixed them. Need to paint the broken spots though. I wonder if that break showing would still hurt me in a painting competition. Might try to get some liquid green stuff in there.
    8n8y2l73rgze.jpeg
    sr8svldd4c8s.jpeg
    kscabhz6cm5o.jpeg

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
    KhraulElvenshaeKoregDiannaoChongLord_Asmodeus
  • WatcherWatcher Registered User regular
    Those look clean and smooth Stragint. Keep up the good work.

    KhraulStragint
  • see317see317 Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    I guess I kind of fixed them. Need to paint the broken spots though. I wonder if that break showing would still hurt me in a painting competition. Might try to get some liquid green stuff in there.
    8n8y2l73rgze.jpeg
    sr8svldd4c8s.jpeg
    kscabhz6cm5o.jpeg

    Do what the AM do when something breaks: slap a wad of purity seals over it.
    If it's good enough for the Omnissiah...

    Ringo wrote: »
    Well except what see317 said. That guy's always wrong.
    Elvenshae
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Watcher wrote: »
    Those look clean and smooth Stragint. Keep up the good work.

    Thank you, I always worry about messing up so I tend to be real cautious with painting.
    see317 wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    I guess I kind of fixed them. Need to paint the broken spots though. I wonder if that break showing would still hurt me in a painting competition. Might try to get some liquid green stuff in there.
    8n8y2l73rgze.jpeg
    sr8svldd4c8s.jpeg
    kscabhz6cm5o.jpeg

    Do what the AM do when something breaks: slap a wad of purity seals over it.
    If it's good enough for the Omnissiah...

    Yeah, purity seals could definitely work. I might do a mix of purity seals and more battle damage added.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Is 80 degrees farenheit too hot to airbrush something? I repainted the castellan head and let it sit for 20 minutes and then started a shade wash with gloss agrax and the paint came right off.

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • ArcticLancerArcticLancer Best served chilled. Registered User regular
    Snazzy, so while I was away for 10 days my extra gun bits came in at least, which puts me in an excellent spot to properly resume working on my little ship.
    Not the most interesting update, but I figured I'd post a few shots of where I'm at all the same. While I was waiting for the other stuff to arrive, I started making one of the catapults. Shit is fucking crazy, guys. The photo makes it look pretty alright, but I did a middling job at best. I genuinely don't know how to approach the other one to actually do a better job, but that's a problem for future Nick.
    2bozhb9odcpl.jpg

    Tiny guns are tiny! I was too lazy to open up the box last night, but the photo etch you can see on top are bits like the base it gets mounted to and the railings for them. Not pictured, but a number of the 20mm guns I got have their barrels broken, which I kind of expected would be the case, but like ... TBD if I can actually fix that or if they were just "miscast" from the beginning.
    r0x2w5n9za2j.jpg

    And the actual thing I'm working on right now: I needed to raise the pit for the Bofors to make it more authentic (plus I'm going to need to scratch-build the second set anyway), so I've glued together bits of sheet styrene to sand down to circles. You can see the test piece I did, which actually came out pretty great~
    h05mjf09w394.jpg

    ElvenshaeExtreaminatusNipsKhraul
  • Gabriel_PittGabriel_Pitt (effective against the Irish) Registered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Is 80 degrees farenheit too hot to airbrush something?
    No.

    Probably chemical residue from stripping.

  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Is 80 degrees farenheit too hot to airbrush something?
    No.

    Probably chemical residue from stripping.

    Maybe, I made sure to wash it off with soap. I'll do it again just to be sure.

    What is a good material to use for gravel on a base?

    PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
    What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak

    I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    Stragint wrote: »
    Stragint wrote: »
    Is 80 degrees farenheit too hot to airbrush something?
    No.

    Probably chemical residue from stripping.

    Maybe, I made sure to wash it off with soap. I'll do it again just to be sure.

    What is a good material to use for gravel on a base?

    Gravel.

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
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