As was foretold, we've added advertisements to the forums! If you have questions, or if you encounter any bugs, please visit this thread: https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/240191/forum-advertisement-faq-and-reports-thread/

Painting Thread a retrospective

1899092949597

Posts

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I use the corner protector cardboard things that come on pallets of tvs or other things at work
    6xaqggu6scjb.jpg
    7eygnerg16hl.jpg

    I don't have problems with the corax white just missing spots is my problem

    I will go through a lot of chaos black as it is the base coat for a lot of my armies {that or white} as it is my plan latter this month to get a bunch of them so I can start painting again

    Extreaminatus
  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. 5386-8443-8937Registered User regular
    GW corax spray is stucco

    wq09t4opzrlc.jpg
  • frayfray Registered User regular
    Yeah, I've never had any issues just spraying it on straight, it works just fine as a first coat.

    Awesome, now I just need to find somewhere that has the sprays in stock.

    "I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
    "And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
  • Gnome-InterruptusGnome-Interruptus Registered User regular
    I got a can of the army painter matte white and it works very well.

    Also recently managed to pick up a can of citadel mephiston red and runebreaker bronze for my indomitus box, that metallic spray was a lot more than I expected.

    steam_sig.png
    MWO: Adamski
  • frayfray Registered User regular
    Yeah, after doing a bit more research it sounds like Army Painter dragon red is pretty close to Mephiston red and it's actually available, maybe I'll try that.

    "I told you," said Ford. "Eddies in the space-time continuum."
    "And this is his sofa, is it?" said Arthur.
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    I use Army Painter Pure Red on my Behemoth Tyranids.

    Goes straight over bare plastic just fine.

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited March 4
    Wasn't someone here trying to do something like this base and figuring out how to achieve that? This post has a quick rundown:

    I think it's been quite a while ago, but anyway, I just stumbled upon the artist's Twitter and Instagram.

    It's Luise Sudgen. She has a really nice painting style I think, very colourful and lots of contrast.
    She also does als the maps and drawings of necromunda and planets for forgeworld.

    honovere on
    CalicaGnome-InterruptusNipsDiannaoChongElvenshaeIanatorDaenrisH3Knuckles
  • NorgothNorgoth cardiffRegistered User regular
    fray wrote: »
    Yeah, I've never had any issues just spraying it on straight, it works just fine as a first coat.

    Awesome, now I just need to find somewhere that has the sprays in stock.

    This seems to be a thing at the moment, most GW sprays are just unavailable. Seems like there's a problem making them.

  • Jam WarriorJam Warrior Registered User regular
    With the big lass done, my Burrows and Badgers warband is complete.

    P3REjH4.jpg?1

    ZmLf1pS.jpg?1

    rx62S2k.jpg?1

    MhCw7nZ.gif
    Sharp101NipsElvenshaeDocSamsonwebguy20KhraulBetsuniHalos Nach TariffWhelkWatcherironsizideAdelliosCalicaNechriahJGnome-InterruptusArcticLancerINeedNoSaltIanatorDaenrisH3Knuckles
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    GW corax spray is stucco

    It is far & away the most temperamental rattle can I've ever used. Which sucks because it's a perfect almost white for basecoating stormtroopers that still allows you to highlight up to pure white.

    PSN/NNID/Steam: Dr_Keenbean
    3DS: 1650-8480-6786
    Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
    ExtreaminatusMazzyx
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Finally finished up my Frost Giant. Everything except for the metallics was done with Scale75 Instant Color. It turned out ok for a first time without using the specific primer for the most part. I only re-primed the beard and skull helmet. The Helmet to Bone and the Beard to White.

    8pbs4v1cbbwg.jpg
    uoe77cu6mo7l.jpg
    qum5up3ne8h0.jpg

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
    ElvenshaeBrainleechDocSamsonNipsRenzoBetsuniGnome-InterruptusironsizideKhraulRedcoat-13VikingNechriahWatchermildlymorbidGroveIanatorBurnageDaenrisH3KnucklesHermano
  • Gnome-InterruptusGnome-Interruptus Registered User regular
    Success! Managed to finish a small squad in one weekend. Primed them previously, but painted models on Saturday and bases on Sunday.
    x1yum8xu6ptk.jpeg

    steam_sig.png
    MWO: Adamski
    webguy20BetsuniNipsironsizideHalos Nach TariffKhraulVikingElvenshaeAsherNechriahBrainleechRenzoWatchermildlymorbidIanatorDiannaoChongJandaruH3KnucklesHermano
  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Instant color looks a shitload better than contrast IMO

    Bnet - Khraul#1822
    Gamertag - Khraul
    PSN - Razide6
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    One thing I found in using it is using different colors on top of each other. The furry parts of the boots are a tan with a medium brown on top, the beard is a light blue then a blue green. It helps give it some depth I think.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    One thing I found in using it is using different colors on top of each other. The furry parts of the boots are a tan with a medium brown on top, the beard is a light blue then a blue green. It helps give it some depth I think.

    With contrast, that has the same effect as just pre-mixing the colors. E.g., yellow over blue gives green.

    Sic transit gloria mundi.
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    I started painting another mini last night with regular scale75 paints and damn do they lay down smooth. 4-5 drops of paint and one of thinner medium seems perfect. Im real impressed.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    I was looking at some pigments and weathering materials and stumbled up AK interactive's condemnation book and PR campaign. WTF?! How to model your own war crime and genocide? Using racist slurs in the promo material plus sensationalist language describing the holocaust for inspiration? I guess I'll look elsewhere for now.

  • AsherAsher Registered User regular
    Yeah they really could not have handled it worse hey! Fortunately these days there is no shortage of good alternatives. MiG seems good, Broken Toad makes some really fun weathering powders in exciting colours. Even the Forgeworld powders are good, though I assume overpriced.

    I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    It is annoying the kingdom death figures don't have instructions as I was building the 10th anniversary white speaker with the vague pictures I could find
    but I did not know it had two upper chest/neck area pieces so i built it with the non ruffed neck as I thought that is what it used? And it takes a lot of dry fitting to fit some pieces like the cloak together because again vague pics

    I know I have said it in the SE++ job thread about my fingers being a tender mess because of work
    Building models was keeping me sane so the lack of it was just driving me insane

  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    edited March 9
    Whoops wrong thread!

    DiannaoChong on
    steam_sig.png
  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    Cool, but wrong thread?

    KhraulDiannaoChongWhelk
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Anybody have some good tutorial videos on doing transitions? I'm going to be painting a dragon that has dark brown on his back and upper limbs, but transitions to a lighter shade on his belly. I've never really messed with that kind of technique before, especially on a large model.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    edited March 10
    Finished up Farleon Tarvish. My Battlemaster fighter that I played in a Curse of Strahd campaign about 4 years ago. Better late than never right? Everything painted with Scale75 Fantasy paints and Army Painter strong tone wash.

    yh2gec9tp90b.jpg
    sjhs7tpx071j.jpg
    3gt1wc4lpt1s.jpg
    txa1c5hej9c3.jpg


    webguy20 on
    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
    ElvenshaeDiannaoChongNipsArcticLancerKhraulBetsuniWhelkWatcherINeedNoSaltironsizidemildlymorbidIanatorH3KnucklesHermano
  • VanguardVanguard A wretched country of duskRegistered User, __BANNED USERS regular
    93stcfm62s4w.jpeg

    wqsecxkzr28t.jpeg

    Cross post from 40K

    Progress on the death guard - added the corrosion, rust, and patina

    Should be on track to finish over the weekend - basically just have horns, cloaks, gross Nurgle bits, and bases

    BetsuniKhraulElvenshaeGnome-Interruptuswebguy20NipsWatcherironsizidemildlymorbidGroveIanatorH3KnucklesHermano
  • McGibsMcGibs TorontoRegistered User regular
    Haven't been painting much lately, just kitbashing.

    A primaris'ed grav-cannon Devastator, because I can't stand squat marines and with 2 wounds, I cant think of any reason not to do this.
    v6wnxvdmxlvk.jpg6k6311rz77oo.jpg

    An Eradicator team, made from some spare aggressor bodies I had and terminator arms to give a more chonky feel. I'm not a fan of the awkward melta-rifle grips.
    ztlfyx25dkui.jpg

    And a cheeky little Culexus assassin!
    b96is1pw1vac.jpg

    website_header.jpg
    BetsuniElvenshaewebguy20Sharp101KhraulhonovereArcticLancerINeedNoSaltDayspringironsizideNechriahmildlymorbidWatcherIanatorH3KnucklesJandaruDocSamsonCalicaHermano
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    That's an adorable little soulless terror death machine.

    ElvenshaeH3Knuckles
  • Gnome-InterruptusGnome-Interruptus Registered User regular
    edited March 11
    Started painting the last of my assembled and primed backlog last night, my Underworlds Fyreslayer warband.

    I have to say after painting Steelhearts Champions last week, I really enjoy painting these early warbands more than the more recent ones. The more recent ones like the ones in Beastgrave just have way too many tiny details for me to enjoy painting them.

    I could see enjoying painting a highly detailed commander / hero units occasionally, but the feeling of accomplishment from being able to quickly finish troops is a nice feeling right now.

    Also once I finish this it means I get to open some more boxes and do some assembly, which will hopefully be finished and line up with the weather taking a turn to good outdoor rattlecan priming weather.

    Gnome-Interruptus on
    steam_sig.png
    MWO: Adamski
  • INeedNoSaltINeedNoSalt with blood on my teeth Registered User regular
    edited March 12
    d2h19co3r5le.jpg

    Death Knight by Stonehaven and Juliet, Female Sorceress by Reaper // was trying to do some fancier basing. I'm not sure I'm totally happy with the frosting on the dk but I really love the mini and I'm really happy with how these both turned out tbh

    Edit: actually that isn't Juliet. I don't know that minis name. This is Juliet by Reaper:
    n092lhzlo2c3.jpg

    INeedNoSalt on
    KhraulBetsuniNipswebguy20DiannaoChongIanatorH3KnucklesHermano
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Dang I gotta get some longer grass for my basing. All your mini's look great.

    I'm working on a Minotaur Skeleton mini right now, and I think the biggest thing I'm improving upon is being able to lay down base coats quick and accurately, and don't over complicate the mini, especially a monster mini that might see table time every 6 months. I am going to try to do a rust effect on the armor though, so we'll see how it goes.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • MazzyxMazzyx Comedy Gold Registered User regular
    edited March 12
    Finished painting my Apothecary. Been a while since I finished a model. And he was a beast. Apothecary Galen reporting for duty.

    N0leG1Hl.jpg
    rbMckX3l.jpg
    3WuzBGkl.jpg
    Pi009PLl.jpg

    Mazzyx on
    03x29di.png
    BetsuniNipsDiannaoChongINeedNoSaltKhraulArcticLancerElvenshaeNechriahWatcherIanatorironsizide
  • VanguardVanguard A wretched country of duskRegistered User, __BANNED USERS regular
    164x03kutx4d.jpeg

    WIP from today's progress - just showing a selection of models but I got the horns done on all of them

    sooooo close to being done

    BetsuniArcticLancerNipsKhraulWhelkGnome-InterruptusElvenshaeMcGibsAsherNechriahINeedNoSaltIanatorVikingironsizideCalicaHermano
  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Hey what are some good cheap paintbrushes? Like paintbrushes that will hold a point and won't fall apart that would be good for varnishes, metals, contrast paints, washes and such. Also any makeup brush recommendations for dry brushing?

    I don't need high quality sable or anything, but just a solid set of affordable brushes. I have nice brushes.

    Steam ID: Webguy20
    Origin ID: Discgolfer27
    Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Hey what are some good cheap paintbrushes? Like paintbrushes that will hold a point and won't fall apart that would be good for varnishes, metals, contrast paints, washes and such. Also any makeup brush recommendations for dry brushing?

    I don't need high quality sable or anything, but just a solid set of affordable brushes. I have nice brushes.

    Dollar store makeup brushes have been great for drybrushing in my experience.

    04xkcuvaav19.png
    Khraul
  • bobAkirafettbobAkirafett Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Hey what are some good cheap paintbrushes? Like paintbrushes that will hold a point and won't fall apart that would be good for varnishes, metals, contrast paints, washes and such. Also any makeup brush recommendations for dry brushing?

    I don't need high quality sable or anything, but just a solid set of affordable brushes. I have nice brushes.

    The Wet n Wild Eyeshadow brushes should be good for drybrushing. $1 and the right size.

    akirasig.jpg
    webguy20
  • Jam WarriorJam Warrior Registered User regular
    Anyone got any experience with crackle media? Got some from Vallejo hoping for quick effective bases, and early experiments aren’t going great. First try crackled, but the cracks were all tiny. Figured it was too thin so put a thicker layer on top, getting some nice texture, before it started falling off in chunks. Was the mistake in layering it?

    MhCw7nZ.gif
  • BloodySlothBloodySloth Registered User regular
    edited March 13
    One thick layer seems to do the trick. It will still want to flake off, so be ginger with it until you can lay some varnish down. That'll help keep it in place.

    BloodySloth on
    webguy20honovere
  • VikingViking Registered User regular
    What I have been doing forever with crackle bases is to....
    Lay it down in one thick layer (3-4mm) and leave to dry (24 hours), then wash it with watered down PVA (white wood glue) to prevent flaking off. dries clear.
    then varnish with a matte medium to remove any shine.

    You can go quite thick with the wood glue.

    steam_sig.png
    Bravely Default / 3DS Friend Code = 3394-3571-1609
    KhraulGnome-Interruptus
  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    edited March 13
    Yeah, the thicker the layer of crackle medium (or crackle paint) the larger the chunks and wider the cracks. That said the Vallejo stuff is kind of too runny to really pile up like that. I use it mostly for ancient ceramic and distressed leather effects. Though maybe if you mixed it with heavy body artist’s acrylic you might achieve the right consistency. Or maybe some slow-dry?
    Actually, slow-dry might make the cracks bigger on its own since they’re a function of moisture leaving the liquid as it sets. I’ll have to find some and experiment.

    Would either of the GW crackle paints work for you? I know they aren’t the most flexible of colours.

    Mr_Rose on
    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
    Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
    DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
  • AdelliosAdellios Registered User regular
    webguy20 wrote: »
    Hey what are some good cheap paintbrushes? Like paintbrushes that will hold a point and won't fall apart that would be good for varnishes, metals, contrast paints, washes and such. Also any makeup brush recommendations for dry brushing?

    I don't need high quality sable or anything, but just a solid set of affordable brushes. I have nice brushes.

    So I got back into painting minis last month after about a decade and I feel like I can recommend the mod podge detail brushes. They are made for decoupage and I'm finding the bristles hold up well for mini painting. The set is usually inexpensive and comes with different sizes as well as a couple of wide bristle brushes. I don't know if they'll hold up to long term varnish use but they were made for podge so they should tolerate it a bit more than a standard brush.

  • BloodySlothBloodySloth Registered User regular
    A lot of the texture paints for GW come in really lame colors, but the textures themselves are nice, so I just apply it before priming, and repaint as whatever I need. I guess their snow texture would be the obvious exception.

    Khraul
Sign In or Register to comment.