NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited June 2022
Mmmmm, power up tokens.
Nips on
+7
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited June 2022
Alright, triple post is triple, but I need eyes on this. I'm trying to come up with a very minimal, simple set of additional rules for moving a ball around with 'Mechs. Assume all the rest of the rules are as normal except as noted. Here's what I've got so far. I'm mentally played it out in my head, and it's a smidge on the side of Calvinball, but I think it'll mostly work as intended.
Scenario Rules
Heat tracking is disabled. (Mostly just to remove one layer of number crunching. Plus, I tried to pick Intro tech 'Mechs that won't take too much advantage of the heat.)
Weapons fire is only allowed on every Nth turn. (I'm not sure here; I want to encourage the Rocket League aspect of the game, but I don't want to completely disallow PEW PEW BANG.)
Roster per Team (Each team of 4 will be able to pick one each from this list; it's what I've got on hand, painted in duplicate. I'm not settled on the list, especially with the Wasp vs. the Phoenix Hawk since the Wasp is demonstrably worse for the same movement profile)
Locust LCT-1E
Wasp WSP-1A
Phoenix Hawk PXH-1D
Wolverine WVR-6R
Griffin GRF-1N
Shadow Hawk SHD-2H
Additional Movement Rules
Ground Dribble
When your ‘Mech walks or runs into a hex adjacent to the ball with it in the ‘Mech’s front arc, you may make a PSR with a +2 penalty. If successful, the ball moves with the ‘Mech. At the end of your ‘Mech’s movement, place the ball in one of the three forward arc hexes adjacent to the ‘Mech If the PSR is unsuccessful, the ball is considered kicked in a random forward-arc direction from your ‘Mech one hex (as with a missed Kick, see Kick the Ball below); resolve the movement of the ball before resuming the ‘Mech’s movement.
Air Dribble
When your ‘Mech begins its movement in a hex adjacent to the ball and uses Jump movement, you may declare the end point of the Jump and make a PSR with a +3 penalty. If successful, the ball moves with the ‘Mech. At the end of your ‘Mech’s movement, place the ball in one of the three forward arc hexes adjacent to the ‘Mech. If the PSR is unsuccessful, the ball does not move with the ‘Mech during its jump.
Additional Melee Attack
Kick the Ball
In the Physical Attack phase, if your ‘Mech is adjacent to the ball with it in the front arc, your ‘Mech may make a Kick attack against the ball. If successful, you may move the ball up to your ‘Mech’s weight divided by 10 rounded down in hexes in a straight line from its hex. If unsuccessful, the ball moves one hex in a random forward arc direction. Roll 1d6 and consult the Missed Kick diagram for ball placement.
While we're on the subject of clan mechs, the Annihilator is the dumbest looking mech I have ever seen. It looks like an upright panda bear with a beer gut.
Oh sweet summer child, you know nothing of dumb looking mechs:
The Imp
The vulcan
The yeoman
The jackrabbit.
4 mechs, 4 weight classes all so much worse.
*huff*
*huff*
I heard someone was talking shit about my boy the yeoman
While we're on the subject of clan mechs, the Annihilator is the dumbest looking mech I have ever seen. It looks like an upright panda bear with a beer gut.
Oh sweet summer child, you know nothing of dumb looking mechs:
The Imp
The vulcan
The yeoman
The jackrabbit.
4 mechs, 4 weight classes all so much worse.
*huff*
*huff*
I heard someone was talking shit about my boy the yeoman
It's like if Baba Yaga owned a Waffle House
+12
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
edited June 2022
I had a flash of insight this morning, and realized that I have two Hammers painted up. Stock designs, they're kinda crap for Rocket Mech League, but with some tweaking I was able to put together something interesting to replace the Wasps in the roster.
Hammer HMR-RML
Mass: 30 tons
Tech Base: Inner Sphere
Chassis Config: Biped
Rules Level: Tournament Legal
Dry Cost: 2,486,965 C-Bills
Total Cost: 2,513,965 C-Bills
Battle Value: 781
Chassis: Unknown Standard
Power Plant: Unknown 210 Fusion Engine
Walking Speed: 75.6 km/h
Maximum Speed: 118.8 km/h
Jump Jets: None
Jump Capacity: 0 meters
Armor: Unknown Standard Armor
Armament:
2 Medium Lasers
2 SRM-2s
1 Small Laser
================================================================================
Equipment Type Rating Mass
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Internal Structure: Standard 51 points 3.00
Engine: Fusion Engine 210 9.00
Walking MP: 7
Running MP: 11
Jumping MP: 0
Heat Sinks: Single Heat Sink 10 0.00
Heat Sink Locations: 2 LT
Gyro: Standard 3.00
Cockpit: Standard 3.00
Actuators: L: SH+UA+LA+H R: SH+UA+LA+H
Armor: Standard Armor AV - 104 6.50
Internal Armor
Structure Factor
Head 3 9
Center Torso 10 15
Center Torso (rear) 4
L/R Torso 7 10
L/R Torso (rear) 4
L/R Arm 5 10
L/R Leg 7 14
================================================================================
Equipment Location Heat Critical Mass
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2 Medium Lasers CT 6 2 2.00
SRM-2 RT 2 1 1.00
SRM-2 LT 2 1 1.00
Small Laser LT 1 1 0.50
@SRM-2 (50) HD - 1 1.00
Free Critical Slots: 39
Also, I keep simulating those rules up above in my head, and I wonder if Ground Dribble should be altered. The way it's written you move into the ball, and then make a PSR. In the case you miss the PSR, the ball scatters, but depending on the scatter you could potentially still have movement left to try and Ground Dribble again. This feels like, potentially, a lot of extra rolls (imagine a Locust at a run, fumbling the ball around), so I'm pondering changing Ground Dribble to just Push The Ball, where the ball moves ahead of you in any straight-line movement you make with no PSRs required.
I also wonder if anyone will actually pull off an Air Dribble, simply for the fact of positioning. Outside of a Power Up, having to start the jump with the ball adjacent to your 'Mech might make this difficult to impossible to accomplish, on top of the PSR to do it.
0. 'Mech starts its move, placing the movement die as normal.
1. 'Mech walks into the hex with the ball.
2. 'Mech finishes its move.
3. Make a PSR
4. If Success: Player places the ball in front of the 'Mech in a hex of their choice.
5. On Fail: Ball scatters from the midpoint between where the ball started and where the 'Mech ended; 1 hex if walking, 2 hexes if running.
While we're on the subject of clan mechs, the Annihilator is the dumbest looking mech I have ever seen. It looks like an upright panda bear with a beer gut.
Oh sweet summer child, you know nothing of dumb looking mechs:
The Imp
The vulcan
The yeoman
The jackrabbit.
4 mechs, 4 weight classes all so much worse.
*huff*
*huff*
I heard someone was talking shit about my boy the yeoman
Liesten, I ain't saying shit about how good this mech is in terms of performance, but the Yeoman absolutely has a derpy silhouette; almost looks like a midget duel wielding accordions.
While we're on the subject of clan mechs, the Annihilator is the dumbest looking mech I have ever seen. It looks like an upright panda bear with a beer gut.
Oh sweet summer child, you know nothing of dumb looking mechs:
The Imp
The vulcan
The yeoman
The jackrabbit.
4 mechs, 4 weight classes all so much worse.
*huff*
*huff*
I heard someone was talking shit about my boy the yeoman
Liesten, I ain't saying shit about how good this mech is in terms of performance, but the Yeoman absolutely has a derpy silhouette; almost looks like a midget duel wielding accordions.
He's a billboard and the message on that billboard is Fuck You
+9
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
0. 'Mech starts its move, placing the movement die as normal.
1. 'Mech walks into the hex with the ball.
2. 'Mech finishes its move.
3. Make a PSR
4. If Success: Player places the ball in front of the 'Mech in a hex of their choice.
5. On Fail: Ball scatters from the midpoint between where the ball started and where the 'Mech ended; 1 hex if walking, 2 hexes if running.
Yeah, I can work with that. I've rewritten the rule, but now I'm wondering which is more interesting on a PSR miss: leave the ball where it is (you just whiffed; one less roll to make), or random bump the ball (you made contact but bobbled, deviation roll and an extra diagram to handle it).
When your ‘Mech’s walk or run movement crosses through the hex containing the ball, complete the movement then make a PSR with a +2 penalty. If the PSR is successful place the ball in one of the three forward arc hexes adjacent to the ‘Mech at the endpoint of its movement. If the PSR is unsuccessful, the ball
[does not move]
[is randomly bumped one hex; roll 1d6 and consult the Ground Dribble Bump diagram for the ball’s final position.]
[Edit] Also, Powerups!
Powerups
Powerups spawn in the end phase of each turn, in designated hexes on the map if there is no powerup currently present in the hex. A powerup is collected when a ‘Mech moves through the hex. A ‘Mech may only carry one powerup at a time; if a ‘Mech collects a second while carrying one, the older one is discarded. A powerup may be activated when noted below by the carrying ‘Mech, and takes effect immediately and lasts until it ends as noted.
Speed Boost (sprint)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Movement Phase. Add +7 to this ‘Mech’s Walk and Run movement values for this turn (Do not recalculate the Run value). Discard after use.
Jump Boost (jetpack)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Movement Phase. Add +5 to this ‘Mech’s Jump movement value for this turn; if the ‘Mech has no Jump value, it gains the ability to jump for this turn. Discard after use.
Weapons Free (supersonic bullet)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Weapon Attack phase. This ‘Mech may fire its weapons this turn with a -2 modifier to each weapon attack. Discard after use.
Power Kick (boot-kick)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Physical Attack phase. If this ‘Mech succeeds at a Kick the Ball attempt, add five hexes to the amount the ball is moved. Discard after use.
Hyper Dribble (mesh ball)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Movement Phase. If this ‘Mech attempts a Ground Dribble or Air Dribble as part of its movement, it automatically succeeds at its PSR. Discard after use.
Shield (shieldmesh)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of the Initiative Phase. Ignore the next 10 cumulative damage that is dealt to this ‘Mech. Discard after all 10 damage is ignored.
Magnetize (magnet-zap)
Activate this powerup at the beginning of this ‘Mech’s movement. If the ball is within six hexes of this ‘Mech, move the ball to one of the three forward arc hexes of this ‘Mech. Discard after use.
This is my WIP interpretation of the Brewer's Legion armor scheme, but while I think it needs something, I can't decide what:
I think maybe painting the small panel at the very front of the chest white and then putting some type of transfer on it might look alright, but I don't know. Any suggestions?
+9
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
My first inclination is that the upper half needs some definition in the panel lines, say with a pin line wash. Otherwise, I think it looks great!
I forgot to link this glorious destription I found on thingyverse on a Yeoman stl.
"This a remix of Siberian Troll's Yeoman. I took away the waste and rescaled to fit similar volume to my other mechs.
There has been a push to "fix" the Yeoman. Siberian Troll, Juodas Varnas, Bishop Steiner, etc all try to add hips and make it look less... derpy. But I say no!! The Yeoman is the living embodiment of an meme mech, especially when scaled properly as it drops the mech's height all the way down to a very girthy 37mm (the height of a Stinger). Remember fellas: Extra Girth = Extra Mirth. This chode runs around the battlefield alpha striking its 50 lurms with no regard for heat, and with 6 tons of ammo it can splatter a lot of cockpit glass with its incessant clagstorm. Torso twisting is for serious mechs, real trolls hold those locks and keep firing wave after wave of stupid at the enemy. Long live the stupid stumpy lurmtard! Long live the Yeoman!"
My first inclination is that the upper half needs some definition in the panel lines, say with a pin line wash. Otherwise, I think it looks great!
Also some colour on the cockpit canopy. Maybe even just a wash in a different colour.
I was confused at first because I did paint the canopy a bright blue (its just hard to see since its so small), but after looking up pictures of other people's painted Thunderbolts there seems to be some differing interpretations on what part of the model actually is the canopy. The part that a lot of people paint as cockpit glass looks like an access hatch to me, with the actual glass being the flat sections below, and the mech art on Sarna seems to confirm it.
With the cockpit itself being off-center, if the cockpit is where some people (and I) painted it, than the mechwarrior inside basically has a giant blindspot due to their view being blocked on one side by body bulk and weapons, but if the cockpit is where some other people paint it than the battlemech has a giant "Shoot me here!" target on the front, so I don't know which one would be better from a tactical standpoint.
+1
Options
AxenMy avatar is Excalibur.Yes, the sword.Registered Userregular
My first inclination is that the upper half needs some definition in the panel lines, say with a pin line wash. Otherwise, I think it looks great!
Also some colour on the cockpit canopy. Maybe even just a wash in a different colour.
I was confused at first because I did paint the canopy a bright blue (its just hard to see since its so small), but after looking up pictures of other people's painted Thunderbolts there seems to be some differing interpretations on what part of the model actually is the canopy. The part that a lot of people paint as cockpit glass looks like an access hatch to me, with the actual glass being the flat sections below, and the mech art on Sarna seems to confirm it.
With the cockpit itself being off-center, if the cockpit is where some people (and I) painted it, than the mechwarrior inside basically has a giant blindspot due to their view being blocked on one side by body bulk and weapons, but if the cockpit is where some other people paint it than the battlemech has a giant "Shoot me here!" target on the front, so I don't know which one would be better from a tactical standpoint.
If it helps, with the neurohelmet the MechWarrior sees everything. The location of the cockpit doesn’t matter.
In fact some cockpits on Mechs are actually located deep inside the Mech and the “cockpit canopy” is really just for show.
A Capellan's favorite sheath for any blade is your back.
0
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
In case anyone is wondering what the canonical cockpit glass is, one the CGL artists (Bishop Steiner) is doing a series marking out the glass on every new model.
Started seeing rumors that (some) B&Ns are discounting Wolfs Dragoon boxes and salvage boxes, may be worth checking out if you’re looking for multiples
+4
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Started seeing rumors that (some) B&Ns are discounting Wolfs Dragoon boxes and salvage boxes, may be worth checking out if you’re looking for multiples
Fact. There's multiple posts on FB of people showing off discounted swag, stickered up to 30% off. It doesn't seem to be ALL B&Ns, so you'll have to check your local store to be sure.
Started seeing rumors that (some) B&Ns are discounting Wolfs Dragoon boxes and salvage boxes, may be worth checking out if you’re looking for multiples
Fact. There's multiple posts on FB of people showing off discounted swag, stickered up to 30% off. It doesn't seem to be ALL B&Ns, so you'll have to check your local store to be sure.
I have not, for fear of what might happen.....
Whelp. looks like I'm about to make a potentially stupid trip.
Wish me luck.
Edit: Nope, mechs were not discounted at my B&N. Though Wolf's Dragoons were available.
So, I only got one box of them.
see317 on
+8
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Crossposting because Smoke Jaguars!
Hey hivemind, I need some input.
I'm working on a Jaguars Delta scheme, lots of grey on grey but broken up with yellow accents. I decided I don't want to do the joint accents in a flat color, and chose to use gold metallic to sorta match up to the other yellows. However, my paint (VMC Gold) feels really hard to manipulate on these small surfaces, and I don't know that I like the look.
I ended up applying it somewhere between a drybrush and a wetbrush, and it clearly didn't go on smooth. I'm not convinced this paint can go on smooth, honestly, it's so thick and thinning it makes it behave weird.
So, first: is the choice of gold even a good-looking choice? I could go back to a gunmetal or whatever, but've done that over grey so much lately I'm kinda getting tired of it. I also considered a copper color, but I don't think the color would line up as nicely.
Do I need to change metallic paints? This pot of VMC Gold feels barely above a craft paint in terms of usability. Maybe change the paint?
My initial thought is to paint the joint accents in a grey metal rather than the gold look that it has. Make it look more like the worky bitz of a machine than a decorative "Shoot me in the knee" golden target.
But then, I picked ComStar for my stuff from the kickstarter. So maybe don't trust me for stompy bot color scheme advice.
see317 on
+2
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
My initial thought is to paint the joint accents in a grey metal rather than the gold look that it has. Make it look more like the worky bitz of a machine than a decorative "Shoot me in the knee" golden target.
The problem with this is I've done that a ton lately, basically everything for the last forever, and I'm really starting to hate that I go to the trouble of picking out these details and then with grey camo styles the greyscale metallic just blends them back into the grey-painted model.
Either I need to find a different greyscale metallic that I like (I've yet to find one, three or four pots across three different lines so far), something drastically darker or lighter, or find a different way to pick out the joint details. Or just quit picking out those details, and focusing on some other thing to make the models pop.
I am so fucking sick of grey on grey on grey, and I keep doing it to myself, and it's damaging my hobby morale. And I'm lining up a Grey Death Legion force after these Jaguars, so there's no end in sight! Goddamn it.
[Edit] Oh shit, epiphany: I was scanning through Camospecs, and saw a pic of a Stormcrow that has super-bright chrome gun barrels, but with just a hint of a yellow filter tint over top of the metallic. Maybe that's the way to go instead. I have a Chrome-ass Chrome paint, and then I can wash it down to dirty it up and hue it toward yellow a smidge. Oooof, though, I'm still not very good at applying the chrome paint. Gotta just take a stab at it I suppose!
Nips on
0
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
That Feeling When you discover what the secondary market value on CGL UrbanMechs is at, and you can't find one of your three spare in-box models.
That Feeling When you discover what the secondary market value on CGL UrbanMechs is at, and you can't find one of your three spare in-box models.
It wouldn't be one you sent me would it?
Naw, that one's accounted for. Unless my spreadsheet is wrong (possible!), I had one each earmarked for Capellans, Fronc Reaches, Solaris VII, and Oosiks.
I'm guessing one of the first three was me going cross-eyed at my spreadsheet some night.
So I STILL have 2 regiments to paint and the Oosik paint brigade has been closed for a looooooooong time. In an attempt to remediate this issue and get the fighting force looking good, i picked up some of them army painter speed paints ive been hearing about. Luckily the new ownership at the FLGS is all about getting new product on the shelves and i can impulse buy decent paint finally.
Took an old primed mini i had laying around. Just one coat of Blood Red. Took like 2 min and the panel lines are already sticking out! Picture doesnt really do it justice. And im not exactly sure where to take it from here, but its quick. And that's top priority right now. Its not going to look as good as a regularly painted mech, but at a quarter of the regular paint time, i'll take it.
+4
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
So I STILL have 2 regiments to paint and the Oosik paint brigade has been closed for a looooooooong time. In an attempt to remediate this issue and get the fighting force looking good, i picked up some of them army painter speed paints ive been hearing about. Luckily the new ownership at the FLGS is all about getting new product on the shelves and i can impulse buy decent paint finally.
Took an old primed mini i had laying around. Just one coat of Blood Red. Took like 2 min and the panel lines are already sticking out! Picture doesnt really do it justice. And im not exactly sure where to take it from here, but its quick. And that's top priority right now. Its not going to look as good as a regularly painted mech, but at a quarter of the regular paint time, i'll take it.
Four things, because I also just bought Blood Red for the exact same reason and tried it on a spare fantasy demon model:
1. Don't let it pool in big blobs, that stuff will absolutely set into a goo state that gets weird. If you see pooling on say, the underside of a hand, wick it away with a brush.
2. Depending on how it lays, it's going to lighten up considerably on the highest surfaces. YMMV, but one coat left the shoulders and chest of my demon looking more light cherry than blood red.
3. Give the paint a looooong while to dry. It dries much, much slower than typical acrylic paint.
4. I've heard that going over with a second Speedpaint, or even some normal acrylics, has a tendency to reactivate the first Speedpaint coat. I haven't investigated this myself, but The More That You Know(tm).
The Runic Grey is pretty good. Zealot Yellow really contaminates your brush rinse cup. Just cant seem to get it off the brush.
Its pretty good for rush jobs, but the splotchy primer job on these guys really shines through with the light colors. Dont think im good enough to make these look like id like them too without a lot more time. So i think they may be limited in mech painting use. But ive got a shitload of zombies that still need done for another game. And the huge backlog of other minis for board games. So not a total waste. Just not great on all these flat panels. Maybe i'll do a second coat of paint later tonight.
So I STILL have 2 regiments to paint and the Oosik paint brigade has been closed for a looooooooong time. In an attempt to remediate this issue and get the fighting force looking good, i picked up some of them army painter speed paints ive been hearing about. Luckily the new ownership at the FLGS is all about getting new product on the shelves and i can impulse buy decent paint finally.
Took an old primed mini i had laying around. Just one coat of Blood Red. Took like 2 min and the panel lines are already sticking out! Picture doesnt really do it justice. And im not exactly sure where to take it from here, but its quick. And that's top priority right now. Its not going to look as good as a regularly painted mech, but at a quarter of the regular paint time, i'll take it.
Four things, because I also just bought Blood Red for the exact same reason and tried it on a spare fantasy demon model:
1. Don't let it pool in big blobs, that stuff will absolutely set into a goo state that gets weird. If you see pooling on say, the underside of a hand, wick it away with a brush.
2. Depending on how it lays, it's going to lighten up considerably on the highest surfaces. YMMV, but one coat left the shoulders and chest of my demon looking more light cherry than blood red.
3. Give the paint a looooong while to dry. It dries much, much slower than typical acrylic paint.
4. I've heard that going over with a second Speedpaint, or even some normal acrylics, has a tendency to reactivate the first Speedpaint coat. I haven't investigated this myself, but The More That You Know(tm).
So hitting the ol youtube for some better painter than me input has paid off. If you have the speed paint medium dropper, you can thin out any other paint into a speed paint and you can paint over top of a previous layer without activating it like water will. But still, you gotta let the layers dry a bit. Also, wet blending is a breeze it seems with the paints.
But my big take away here is I can use my Oosik blue color I use, thin it with the medium and slap it on. Again, not sure how thattl be with a big blocky robot, but we'll see I guess? Maybe I prime up some clanner scum tomorrow and see how it goes?
0
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I'll be curious to see how that works out, mostly because the pigments in actual Speedpaint seem very aggressive, and I wonder if the pigments in a normal acrylic paint are going to behave in quite the same way, medium or no.
Like, I made myself a "Not Contrast" heavy body grey wash to use for GDL units, and it's like two different inks and three different mediums and additives to get to the flow and consistency of Contrast/Speedpaint. If their Speedpaint Medium is just "boom, magic bullet", I'll be genuinely astonished.
Nips, if you're curios, Dana Howl did a video on youtube where she got the speed paints to work. There is propably others, but I just really like her videos.
My first inclination is that the upper half needs some definition in the panel lines, say with a pin line wash. Otherwise, I think it looks great!
Also some colour on the cockpit canopy. Maybe even just a wash in a different colour.
I was confused at first because I did paint the canopy a bright blue (its just hard to see since its so small), but after looking up pictures of other people's painted Thunderbolts there seems to be some differing interpretations on what part of the model actually is the canopy. ...
You're rigth. I think the scale of battletech is messing with how I look at the mechs.
Which most likely explains why I'm not the only one.
I'll be curious to see how that works out, mostly because the pigments in actual Speedpaint seem very aggressive, and I wonder if the pigments in a normal acrylic paint are going to behave in quite the same way, medium or no.
Like, I made myself a "Not Contrast" heavy body grey wash to use for GDL units, and it's like two different inks and three different mediums and additives to get to the flow and consistency of Contrast/Speedpaint. If their Speedpaint Medium is just "boom, magic bullet", I'll be genuinely astonished.
AP Crystal Blue & SpeedPaint Medium. Very roughly 1:4-1:5 mix. And i dont hate it. It pools up a bit too easy in some areas, just gotta brush it down. Im actually surprised this worked so well. this is 1 coat on the ol Jager.
2nd pic is a side by side of a mech primed with the crystal blue rattle can
Honestly, i wonder if this is a good way to just fill in the panel lines easily. Maybe start with a dark grey, then come back and highlight over the entire thing with the blue.
+1
Options
NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
You're doing the lord's work, Hydro, and those results are super encouraging.
@Nought I watched one of Dana's videos (I'm actually subscribed to her channel, but just have been away from it for a bit) where she mixes Speedpaint and its medium with some VMC acrylic, and honestly I'm surprised by how well it works. Granted, she's essentially a professional painter and she was basically working with wet blends, but the important part stands: you can get the Speedpaint to not activate and rub off.
I'm impressed, but I do wonder that for the purposes of STOMPY ROBOTS if what Hydro's up to here is probably more applicable. Regardless, credit where credit's due!
Posts
*huff*
*huff*
I heard someone was talking shit about my boy the yeoman
It's like if Baba Yaga owned a Waffle House
Hammer HMR-RML Mass: 30 tons Tech Base: Inner Sphere Chassis Config: Biped Rules Level: Tournament Legal Dry Cost: 2,486,965 C-Bills Total Cost: 2,513,965 C-Bills Battle Value: 781 Chassis: Unknown Standard Power Plant: Unknown 210 Fusion Engine Walking Speed: 75.6 km/h Maximum Speed: 118.8 km/h Jump Jets: None Jump Capacity: 0 meters Armor: Unknown Standard Armor Armament: 2 Medium Lasers 2 SRM-2s 1 Small Laser ================================================================================ Equipment Type Rating Mass -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Internal Structure: Standard 51 points 3.00 Engine: Fusion Engine 210 9.00 Walking MP: 7 Running MP: 11 Jumping MP: 0 Heat Sinks: Single Heat Sink 10 0.00 Heat Sink Locations: 2 LT Gyro: Standard 3.00 Cockpit: Standard 3.00 Actuators: L: SH+UA+LA+H R: SH+UA+LA+H Armor: Standard Armor AV - 104 6.50 Internal Armor Structure Factor Head 3 9 Center Torso 10 15 Center Torso (rear) 4 L/R Torso 7 10 L/R Torso (rear) 4 L/R Arm 5 10 L/R Leg 7 14 ================================================================================ Equipment Location Heat Critical Mass -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2 Medium Lasers CT 6 2 2.00 SRM-2 RT 2 1 1.00 SRM-2 LT 2 1 1.00 Small Laser LT 1 1 0.50 @SRM-2 (50) HD - 1 1.00 Free Critical Slots: 39Also, I keep simulating those rules up above in my head, and I wonder if Ground Dribble should be altered. The way it's written you move into the ball, and then make a PSR. In the case you miss the PSR, the ball scatters, but depending on the scatter you could potentially still have movement left to try and Ground Dribble again. This feels like, potentially, a lot of extra rolls (imagine a Locust at a run, fumbling the ball around), so I'm pondering changing Ground Dribble to just Push The Ball, where the ball moves ahead of you in any straight-line movement you make with no PSRs required.
I also wonder if anyone will actually pull off an Air Dribble, simply for the fact of positioning. Outside of a Power Up, having to start the jump with the ball adjacent to your 'Mech might make this difficult to impossible to accomplish, on top of the PSR to do it.
0. 'Mech starts its move, placing the movement die as normal.
1. 'Mech walks into the hex with the ball.
2. 'Mech finishes its move.
3. Make a PSR
4. If Success: Player places the ball in front of the 'Mech in a hex of their choice.
5. On Fail: Ball scatters from the midpoint between where the ball started and where the 'Mech ended; 1 hex if walking, 2 hexes if running.
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
Liesten, I ain't saying shit about how good this mech is in terms of performance, but the Yeoman absolutely has a derpy silhouette; almost looks like a midget duel wielding accordions.
He's a billboard and the message on that billboard is Fuck You
Yeah, I can work with that. I've rewritten the rule, but now I'm wondering which is more interesting on a PSR miss: leave the ball where it is (you just whiffed; one less roll to make), or random bump the ball (you made contact but bobbled, deviation roll and an extra diagram to handle it).
[Edit] Also, Powerups!
I think maybe painting the small panel at the very front of the chest white and then putting some type of transfer on it might look alright, but I don't know. Any suggestions?
Also some colour on the cockpit canopy. Maybe even just a wash in a different colour.
.
Island. Being on fire.
"This a remix of Siberian Troll's Yeoman. I took away the waste and rescaled to fit similar volume to my other mechs.
There has been a push to "fix" the Yeoman. Siberian Troll, Juodas Varnas, Bishop Steiner, etc all try to add hips and make it look less... derpy. But I say no!! The Yeoman is the living embodiment of an meme mech, especially when scaled properly as it drops the mech's height all the way down to a very girthy 37mm (the height of a Stinger). Remember fellas: Extra Girth = Extra Mirth. This chode runs around the battlefield alpha striking its 50 lurms with no regard for heat, and with 6 tons of ammo it can splatter a lot of cockpit glass with its incessant clagstorm. Torso twisting is for serious mechs, real trolls hold those locks and keep firing wave after wave of stupid at the enemy. Long live the stupid stumpy lurmtard! Long live the Yeoman!"
.
Island. Being on fire.
I was confused at first because I did paint the canopy a bright blue (its just hard to see since its so small), but after looking up pictures of other people's painted Thunderbolts there seems to be some differing interpretations on what part of the model actually is the canopy. The part that a lot of people paint as cockpit glass looks like an access hatch to me, with the actual glass being the flat sections below, and the mech art on Sarna seems to confirm it.
With the cockpit itself being off-center, if the cockpit is where some people (and I) painted it, than the mechwarrior inside basically has a giant blindspot due to their view being blocked on one side by body bulk and weapons, but if the cockpit is where some other people paint it than the battlemech has a giant "Shoot me here!" target on the front, so I don't know which one would be better from a tactical standpoint.
If it helps, with the neurohelmet the MechWarrior sees everything. The location of the cockpit doesn’t matter.
In fact some cockpits on Mechs are actually located deep inside the Mech and the “cockpit canopy” is really just for show.
https://www.patreon.com/posts/cockpit-painting-66579534
The THUD has three glass windows, one to the front and two small side glass.
I just checked and it looks like basically everything is out of stock, but they do have the AGoAC boxes in stock for only $38 still.
Thanks for this callout. I was just thinking about the box being priced a bit high for me, but now I have one on the way.
Fact. There's multiple posts on FB of people showing off discounted swag, stickered up to 30% off. It doesn't seem to be ALL B&Ns, so you'll have to check your local store to be sure.
I have not, for fear of what might happen.....
Whelp. looks like I'm about to make a potentially stupid trip.
Wish me luck.
Edit: Nope, mechs were not discounted at my B&N. Though Wolf's Dragoons were available.
So, I only got one box of them.
Hey hivemind, I need some input.
I'm working on a Jaguars Delta scheme, lots of grey on grey but broken up with yellow accents. I decided I don't want to do the joint accents in a flat color, and chose to use gold metallic to sorta match up to the other yellows. However, my paint (VMC Gold) feels really hard to manipulate on these small surfaces, and I don't know that I like the look.
I ended up applying it somewhere between a drybrush and a wetbrush, and it clearly didn't go on smooth. I'm not convinced this paint can go on smooth, honestly, it's so thick and thinning it makes it behave weird.
So, first: is the choice of gold even a good-looking choice? I could go back to a gunmetal or whatever, but've done that over grey so much lately I'm kinda getting tired of it. I also considered a copper color, but I don't think the color would line up as nicely.
Do I need to change metallic paints? This pot of VMC Gold feels barely above a craft paint in terms of usability. Maybe change the paint?
But then, I picked ComStar for my stuff from the kickstarter. So maybe don't trust me for stompy bot color scheme advice.
The problem with this is I've done that a ton lately, basically everything for the last forever, and I'm really starting to hate that I go to the trouble of picking out these details and then with grey camo styles the greyscale metallic just blends them back into the grey-painted model.
Either I need to find a different greyscale metallic that I like (I've yet to find one, three or four pots across three different lines so far), something drastically darker or lighter, or find a different way to pick out the joint details. Or just quit picking out those details, and focusing on some other thing to make the models pop.
I am so fucking sick of grey on grey on grey, and I keep doing it to myself, and it's damaging my hobby morale. And I'm lining up a Grey Death Legion force after these Jaguars, so there's no end in sight! Goddamn it.
[Edit] Oh shit, epiphany: I was scanning through Camospecs, and saw a pic of a Stormcrow that has super-bright chrome gun barrels, but with just a hint of a yellow filter tint over top of the metallic. Maybe that's the way to go instead. I have a Chrome-ass Chrome paint, and then I can wash it down to dirty it up and hue it toward yellow a smidge. Oooof, though, I'm still not very good at applying the chrome paint. Gotta just take a stab at it I suppose!
It wouldn't be one you sent me would it?
Steam: betsuni7
*glancing side eyes at my ramen bucket of mechs with 4 urbies in it*
Naw, that one's accounted for. Unless my spreadsheet is wrong (possible!), I had one each earmarked for Capellans, Fronc Reaches, Solaris VII, and Oosiks.
I'm guessing one of the first three was me going cross-eyed at my spreadsheet some night.
Took an old primed mini i had laying around. Just one coat of Blood Red. Took like 2 min and the panel lines are already sticking out! Picture doesnt really do it justice. And im not exactly sure where to take it from here, but its quick. And that's top priority right now. Its not going to look as good as a regularly painted mech, but at a quarter of the regular paint time, i'll take it.
Four things, because I also just bought Blood Red for the exact same reason and tried it on a spare fantasy demon model:
1. Don't let it pool in big blobs, that stuff will absolutely set into a goo state that gets weird. If you see pooling on say, the underside of a hand, wick it away with a brush.
2. Depending on how it lays, it's going to lighten up considerably on the highest surfaces. YMMV, but one coat left the shoulders and chest of my demon looking more light cherry than blood red.
3. Give the paint a looooong while to dry. It dries much, much slower than typical acrylic paint.
4. I've heard that going over with a second Speedpaint, or even some normal acrylics, has a tendency to reactivate the first Speedpaint coat. I haven't investigated this myself, but The More That You Know(tm).
Its pretty good for rush jobs, but the splotchy primer job on these guys really shines through with the light colors. Dont think im good enough to make these look like id like them too without a lot more time. So i think they may be limited in mech painting use. But ive got a shitload of zombies that still need done for another game. And the huge backlog of other minis for board games. So not a total waste. Just not great on all these flat panels. Maybe i'll do a second coat of paint later tonight.
So hitting the ol youtube for some better painter than me input has paid off. If you have the speed paint medium dropper, you can thin out any other paint into a speed paint and you can paint over top of a previous layer without activating it like water will. But still, you gotta let the layers dry a bit. Also, wet blending is a breeze it seems with the paints.
But my big take away here is I can use my Oosik blue color I use, thin it with the medium and slap it on. Again, not sure how thattl be with a big blocky robot, but we'll see I guess? Maybe I prime up some clanner scum tomorrow and see how it goes?
Like, I made myself a "Not Contrast" heavy body grey wash to use for GDL units, and it's like two different inks and three different mediums and additives to get to the flow and consistency of Contrast/Speedpaint. If their Speedpaint Medium is just "boom, magic bullet", I'll be genuinely astonished.
You're rigth. I think the scale of battletech is messing with how I look at the mechs.
Which most likely explains why I'm not the only one.
.
Island. Being on fire.
AP Crystal Blue & SpeedPaint Medium. Very roughly 1:4-1:5 mix. And i dont hate it. It pools up a bit too easy in some areas, just gotta brush it down. Im actually surprised this worked so well. this is 1 coat on the ol Jager.
2nd pic is a side by side of a mech primed with the crystal blue rattle can
@Nought I watched one of Dana's videos (I'm actually subscribed to her channel, but just have been away from it for a bit) where she mixes Speedpaint and its medium with some VMC acrylic, and honestly I'm surprised by how well it works. Granted, she's essentially a professional painter and she was basically working with wet blends, but the important part stands: you can get the Speedpaint to not activate and rub off.
I'm impressed, but I do wonder that for the purposes of STOMPY ROBOTS if what Hydro's up to here is probably more applicable. Regardless, credit where credit's due!