IIRC Robert Charrette (Wolves on the Border) made a statement that the Clan didn’t exist when he was writing that book, but that they had put down several story seeds and stuff he wrote end up becoming Clan words.
Yesterday I got the thought at work that maybe the Helm Memory Core was introduced to give the Inner Sphere a better chance at standing up to the Clans.
Looking in Sarna, I see that was more of a gap between Helm and the Invasion then I thought.
Any old enought to remember the timeline of releases, or just know the release times?
Also, reading the sarna article on the Helm discovery sounds very much like the synopsis of a book, but the references look more like it was a campagne book.
A guess my real qustion is, was the Helm Core found as a prelude to the clans, or to inject some variance into the normal game?
The Helm memory core is discovered and distributed in the Price of Glory book (1987). The Clans get some hints with Wolf's Dragoons in Wolves on the Border (Mar 1989). But the Clans were officially introduced with the Blood of Kerensky trilogy (Sept 1989), TRO3050 (1990), and the TT rules in the Battletech Compendium (Sept 1990).
Edit:TRO 2750 (1989) has Star League equipment from the Helm core with rules in the same Compendium. Helm was a seed that opened up options for them later, but game-wise the SL stuff was essentially added at the same time as clan tech.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
At last, our (my) long national nightmare is over! The premium Hammerhead is back in stock at the CGL webstore.
Finally going to pick up that one, the Timber Wolf TC and the new Eris.
Have there ever been an interview where any of the designers hinted at what the original plan was for the return of the Kerensky exodus?
Or was it just a very rough outline of an idea?
They might have had notes on a napkin.
The Wolf's Dragoons were a part of BT from the get go and they were written to be purposefully mysterious, but there was no concrete plans.
According to Mike Stackpole the idea of the Clans sprung to life when he and Jordan Weisman were attending some Con '88. They tossed around the idea of whether Natasha Kerensky might really be related to Aleksandr Kerensky. At one point Stackpole said to Weisman, "Oh my god, they're not Wolf's Dragoons, they're the Wolf Dragoons". Which is a line Phelan Kell would say in a later book. After that Stackpole hammered out a basic concept and things went from there.
Charrette would write Wolves on the Border, the first book about the Wolf's Dragoons (IIRC). This book would have some, in retrospect, references to the Clans. Humorously Charrette didn't actually know anything about the Clans at the time and was just asked to drop these little hints in his book.
A Capellan's favorite sheath for any blade is your back.
I really hope you're just that artsy and understood the reference well enough to grab and 'shop that. Because otherwise you already had that
and
W H Y ? !
40,000 hours in MSPAINT
Also, this guy is still a work in progress, but let me tell you something - the Crusader is a giant PSO RAcast who dropped his gun and I staunchly refuse to believe any differently.
+6
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
So after letting them sit 90% finished on my bench for like a month, I just finished up a star of SharkFoxes. Nothing terribly special, aside from the dirt-simple paint method I happened to work out. I will say I'm pretty proud of the cockpit glass; I feel like my blending and understanding of how to highlight the volumes really improved with this bunch.
The latest lance... Not really sure where to go from here. Never done shiny silver before. Suggestions?
+3
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Okay, so you've got a lot of room to play with here. A few suggestions:
1. Dirty Look: Slap that sucker all over with a black/dark brown wash. It'll dull the metallic sheen and mute the red details, but it will give a bunch of depth to the nooks and crannies. Just make sure the wash doesn't pool on the panels too much.
2. Cleaner Look: Same as in 1, but then go back over with a light drybrush of your original metallic. That'll help bring the edges back up to Shiny, and give the panels a bit of a brushed look, while ideally keeping the recesses shaded.
3. The Hyper-Clean Look: Pin wash JUST the panel grooves and lines with a black wash. This is going to take a dog's year, with a steady hand and a very fine brush, but really pushes value separation between the crevices versus the panels and edges.
4. The "It Makes My Eyes Bleed From Sheen" Look: As with 4, but then use a straight chrome to highlight all of the panel edges. Again, dog's year on dog's year here.
Then follow up with detailing (lenses/ports, joints, cockpit, redoing the red details).
Okay, so you've got a lot of room to play with here. A few suggestions:
1. Dirty Look: Slap that sucker all over with a black/dark brown wash. It'll dull the metallic sheen and mute the red details, but it will give a bunch of depth to the nooks and crannies. Just make sure the wash doesn't pool on the panels too much.
2. Cleaner Look: Same as in 1, but then go back over with a light drybrush of your original metallic. That'll help bring the edges back up to Shiny, and give the panels a bit of a brushed look, while ideally keeping the recesses shaded.
3. The Hyper-Clean Look: Pin wash JUST the panel grooves and lines with a black wash. This is going to take a dog's year, with a steady hand and a very fine brush, but really pushes value separation between the crevices versus the panels and edges.
4. The "It Makes My Eyes Bleed From Sheen" Look: As with 4, but then use a straight chrome to highlight all of the panel edges. Again, dog's year on dog's year here.
Then follow up with detailing (lenses/ports, joints, cockpit, redoing the red details).
Noice!
Every time i hear pin wash i think of taking a syringe and doing the cracks that way.
0
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
Okay, so you've got a lot of room to play with here. A few suggestions:
1. Dirty Look: Slap that sucker all over with a black/dark brown wash. It'll dull the metallic sheen and mute the red details, but it will give a bunch of depth to the nooks and crannies. Just make sure the wash doesn't pool on the panels too much.
2. Cleaner Look: Same as in 1, but then go back over with a light drybrush of your original metallic. That'll help bring the edges back up to Shiny, and give the panels a bit of a brushed look, while ideally keeping the recesses shaded.
3. The Hyper-Clean Look: Pin wash JUST the panel grooves and lines with a black wash. This is going to take a dog's year, with a steady hand and a very fine brush, but really pushes value separation between the crevices versus the panels and edges.
4. The "It Makes My Eyes Bleed From Sheen" Look: As with 4, but then use a straight chrome to highlight all of the panel edges. Again, dog's year on dog's year here.
Then follow up with detailing (lenses/ports, joints, cockpit, redoing the red details).
Noice!
Every time i hear pin wash i think of taking a syringe and doing the cracks that way.
It's not for the faint of heart, but there's another method that the more experienced painters use that does almost exactly that through capillary action: pin lining with an oil base paint. Zumikito Miniatures shows a bunch of different wash methods, including oil. The bonus to going the oil base route is that since you have to gloss seal the miniature before you apply the oil, you can use a q-tip with white spirits to very quickly and easily wipe away any excess that gets on panels or in places you don't want the wash.
There's a ton of other videos from other pro painters showing similar techniques, if you dig around.
Okay, so you've got a lot of room to play with here. A few suggestions:
1. Dirty Look: Slap that sucker all over with a black/dark brown wash. It'll dull the metallic sheen and mute the red details, but it will give a bunch of depth to the nooks and crannies. Just make sure the wash doesn't pool on the panels too much.
2. Cleaner Look: Same as in 1, but then go back over with a light drybrush of your original metallic. That'll help bring the edges back up to Shiny, and give the panels a bit of a brushed look, while ideally keeping the recesses shaded.
3. The Hyper-Clean Look: Pin wash JUST the panel grooves and lines with a black wash. This is going to take a dog's year, with a steady hand and a very fine brush, but really pushes value separation between the crevices versus the panels and edges.
4. The "It Makes My Eyes Bleed From Sheen" Look: As with 4, but then use a straight chrome to highlight all of the panel edges. Again, dog's year on dog's year here.
Then follow up with detailing (lenses/ports, joints, cockpit, redoing the red details).
Noice!
Every time i hear pin wash i think of taking a syringe and doing the cracks that way.
It's not for the faint of heart, but there's another method that the more experienced painters use that does almost exactly that through capillary action: pin lining with an oil base paint. Zumikito Miniatures shows a bunch of different wash methods, including oil. The bonus to going the oil base route is that since you have to gloss seal the miniature before you apply the oil, you can use a q-tip with white spirits to very quickly and easily wipe away any excess that gets on panels or in places you don't want the wash.
There's a ton of other videos from other pro painters showing similar techniques, if you dig around.
This technique takes some time and supplies but its really very easy and the results are phenomenal.
Try AK Streaking Grime, applied very liberally then cleaned away slowly
On the first day of Mechmas Calender the originator don't get any prep done, pass out on the sofa, says fuck it work is not going to kill my private life, and stays up until 2am watchting the yogscast raise £1mil in the first day.
This is the first model I finished in something like 15 years.
This is the first model I finished in something like 15 years.
You still got it.
Thanks
I will say that the picture makes it look a bit better IMO.
It's more dark in real life. And up close it's easier to see where I used nuln olie til hide my overpaint of the metal.
Also, I have been painting on and off, but with year long gaps.
It's more fun to buy models, and easier to assemble them.
And once they are assembled, you can use them in a game.
Played my first game of Alpha Strike! Quick, dirty, bloody….. and 200 points was definitely not enough. We were done in like, an hour. 4 mechs with higher skills versus 6 with regular skill. Played on hex maps, due to kitchen table space concerns and terrain availability.
I really liked it! An excellent second way to play BT. Once we get bigger forces in play we’ll get a better taste for it.
Day two got done at the same time as day one. 2-3am.
It's a bit hard to see, but the second one is a bit darker.
The first one was done with black undercote, grey zenithal and then white drybrush to the exposed edges.
Imperial Fist yellow contrast. And then sepia wash, since the panel lines didn't show up. More on that in a few lines.
Day two I wanted to do something that helped the yellow, but was a bit lazy so tried to do it the way I seemed to remember Dana Howl said in a video I watched more that a year ago.
So black primer first then a brown vallejo air colour I had all over that. A citadel air tan over that as a zenithal and a light drybrush of white, that didn't behave as well as the one the day before.
Imperial Fist yellow. The result was darker this time, and again no panel lines, but after some sepia wash it was a bit too dark.
Tried to fix it with some more Imperial Fist yellow,while avoiding the recesses.
Oh, and I found out why I didn't get any panel lines when looking up the colour Dana Howl used for the bases during her big contrast/speedpaint test.
The video I looked at was the one with the new contrast paint, in which she says Imperial Fist isn't really a contrast paint in the same way the first wave was.
I also saw Vince Ventrellas video on zenithal/under paint/slapchop under red, yellow and orange.
So today I bought Iyanden Yellow, and will try the zenithal the way Vince showed it, on todays mech.
Also also. The first mech was the first time I have tried lense/jewel effect and I'm amazed at how well it turned out.
All you nerds with the patience to jewel the cockpits and lenses make me jealous. May Kerensky bless your loins with only the strongest of mechwarrior offspring.
Day two got done at the same time as day one. 2-3am.
It's a bit hard to see, but the second one is a bit darker.
The first one was done with black undercote, grey zenithal and then white drybrush to the exposed edges.
Imperial Fist yellow contrast. And then sepia wash, since the panel lines didn't show up. More on that in a few lines.
Day two I wanted to do something that helped the yellow, but was a bit lazy so tried to do it the way I seemed to remember Dana Howl said in a video I watched more that a year ago.
So black primer first then a brown vallejo air colour I had all over that. A citadel air tan over that as a zenithal and a light drybrush of white, that didn't behave as well as the one the day before.
Imperial Fist yellow. The result was darker this time, and again no panel lines, but after some sepia wash it was a bit too dark.
Tried to fix it with some more Imperial Fist yellow,while avoiding the recesses.
Oh, and I found out why I didn't get any panel lines when looking up the colour Dana Howl used for the bases during her big contrast/speedpaint test.
The video I looked at was the one with the new contrast paint, in which she says Imperial Fist isn't really a contrast paint in the same way the first wave was.
I also saw Vince Ventrellas video on zenithal/under paint/slapchop under red, yellow and orange.
So today I bought Iyanden Yellow, and will try the zenithal the way Vince showed it, on todays mech.
Also also. The first mech was the first time I have tried lense/jewel effect and I'm amazed at how well it turned out.
the results of all them steps looks great. I'm far too lazy for that.
Next mech is just AP Gravelord Grey. I'll paint the shiny bits, and cockpit, base it black, done.
I decided to buy the Humble Bundle today and gift the box set to my friend as a Christmas present. Didn't read the page and see that they are sold out till January 2023. Guess I'll save it for his birthday present instead.
My package from Catalyst arrived; Alpha Strike box, Reinforcements box, and the Eris. Had a great time unboxing and organizing and planning for future play.
Question: what type of glue do people recommend for assembling the premium miniatures? Is regular old super glue ok?
I used loctite for a bit, like the exact bottle Hydro’s showing off, but the nozzle straight up snapped off once when I was screwing the lid back on. I think I still have some other brand with a good applicator that will work. Thx as always y’all.
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NipsHe/HimLuxuriating in existential crisis.Registered Userregular
I used loctite for a bit, like the exact bottle Hydro’s showing off, but the nozzle straight up snapped off once when I was screwing the lid back on. I think I still have some other brand with a good applicator that will work. Thx as always y’all.
Yeah, that's my only complaint about that bottle of Loctite: the tip gets clogged and crusted, and I have to clean it off and drill it out on the regular.
Posts
Found it, use the chapter break for 52:40
The Helm memory core is discovered and distributed in the Price of Glory book (1987). The Clans get some hints with Wolf's Dragoons in Wolves on the Border (Mar 1989). But the Clans were officially introduced with the Blood of Kerensky trilogy (Sept 1989), TRO3050 (1990), and the TT rules in the Battletech Compendium (Sept 1990).
Edit:TRO 2750 (1989) has Star League equipment from the Helm core with rules in the same Compendium. Helm was a seed that opened up options for them later, but game-wise the SL stuff was essentially added at the same time as clan tech.
Finally going to pick up that one, the Timber Wolf TC and the new Eris.
They might have had notes on a napkin.
The Wolf's Dragoons were a part of BT from the get go and they were written to be purposefully mysterious, but there was no concrete plans.
According to Mike Stackpole the idea of the Clans sprung to life when he and Jordan Weisman were attending some Con '88. They tossed around the idea of whether Natasha Kerensky might really be related to Aleksandr Kerensky. At one point Stackpole said to Weisman, "Oh my god, they're not Wolf's Dragoons, they're the Wolf Dragoons". Which is a line Phelan Kell would say in a later book. After that Stackpole hammered out a basic concept and things went from there.
Charrette would write Wolves on the Border, the first book about the Wolf's Dragoons (IIRC). This book would have some, in retrospect, references to the Clans. Humorously Charrette didn't actually know anything about the Clans at the time and was just asked to drop these little hints in his book.
That's wild.
Now I just wanna know who decided to steal from Greco-Macedonian and Mongolian/Pan-Asian histories
40,000 hours in MSPAINT
Also, this guy is still a work in progress, but let me tell you something - the Crusader is a giant PSO RAcast who dropped his gun and I staunchly refuse to believe any differently.
Glamour shots under the spoiler.
Right off the Sea Fox showroom floor!
1. Dirty Look: Slap that sucker all over with a black/dark brown wash. It'll dull the metallic sheen and mute the red details, but it will give a bunch of depth to the nooks and crannies. Just make sure the wash doesn't pool on the panels too much.
2. Cleaner Look: Same as in 1, but then go back over with a light drybrush of your original metallic. That'll help bring the edges back up to Shiny, and give the panels a bit of a brushed look, while ideally keeping the recesses shaded.
3. The Hyper-Clean Look: Pin wash JUST the panel grooves and lines with a black wash. This is going to take a dog's year, with a steady hand and a very fine brush, but really pushes value separation between the crevices versus the panels and edges.
4. The "It Makes My Eyes Bleed From Sheen" Look: As with 4, but then use a straight chrome to highlight all of the panel edges. Again, dog's year on dog's year here.
Then follow up with detailing (lenses/ports, joints, cockpit, redoing the red details).
Noice!
Every time i hear pin wash i think of taking a syringe and doing the cracks that way.
It's not for the faint of heart, but there's another method that the more experienced painters use that does almost exactly that through capillary action: pin lining with an oil base paint. Zumikito Miniatures shows a bunch of different wash methods, including oil. The bonus to going the oil base route is that since you have to gloss seal the miniature before you apply the oil, you can use a q-tip with white spirits to very quickly and easily wipe away any excess that gets on panels or in places you don't want the wash.
There's a ton of other videos from other pro painters showing similar techniques, if you dig around.
This technique takes some time and supplies but its really very easy and the results are phenomenal.
Try AK Streaking Grime, applied very liberally then cleaned away slowly
This is the first model I finished in something like 15 years.
To quote Farscape, Thank god it's friday.
.
Island. Being on fire.
You still got it.
Thanks
I will say that the picture makes it look a bit better IMO.
It's more dark in real life. And up close it's easier to see where I used nuln olie til hide my overpaint of the metal.
Also, I have been painting on and off, but with year long gaps.
It's more fun to buy models, and easier to assemble them.
And once they are assembled, you can use them in a game.
.
Island. Being on fire.
Oosik 351st Heavy Company. The Silver Foxes.
Steam: betsuni7
Man i aint got that MWO Whale kinda money...
As is the painting.
.
Island. Being on fire.
Big "'I'm not wearing makeup' makeup" energy
Love it
I really liked it! An excellent second way to play BT. Once we get bigger forces in play we’ll get a better taste for it.
It's a bit hard to see, but the second one is a bit darker.
The first one was done with black undercote, grey zenithal and then white drybrush to the exposed edges.
Imperial Fist yellow contrast. And then sepia wash, since the panel lines didn't show up. More on that in a few lines.
Day two I wanted to do something that helped the yellow, but was a bit lazy so tried to do it the way I seemed to remember Dana Howl said in a video I watched more that a year ago.
So black primer first then a brown vallejo air colour I had all over that. A citadel air tan over that as a zenithal and a light drybrush of white, that didn't behave as well as the one the day before.
Imperial Fist yellow. The result was darker this time, and again no panel lines, but after some sepia wash it was a bit too dark.
Tried to fix it with some more Imperial Fist yellow,while avoiding the recesses.
Oh, and I found out why I didn't get any panel lines when looking up the colour Dana Howl used for the bases during her big contrast/speedpaint test.
The video I looked at was the one with the new contrast paint, in which she says Imperial Fist isn't really a contrast paint in the same way the first wave was.
I also saw Vince Ventrellas video on zenithal/under paint/slapchop under red, yellow and orange.
So today I bought Iyanden Yellow, and will try the zenithal the way Vince showed it, on todays mech.
Also also. The first mech was the first time I have tried lense/jewel effect and I'm amazed at how well it turned out.
.
Island. Being on fire.
the results of all them steps looks great. I'm far too lazy for that.
Next mech is just AP Gravelord Grey. I'll paint the shiny bits, and cockpit, base it black, done.
Steam: betsuni7
Waiting on decals, but Barbers Marauder IIs has its first mech.
Reference image:
You could just say it is frost on the cockpit and be fine that way.
Steam: betsuni7
New Rec Guide and more Pseudotech!!
Question: what type of glue do people recommend for assembling the premium miniatures? Is regular old super glue ok?
Ayyyyyyy. Loctite club!
Yeah, that's my only complaint about that bottle of Loctite: the tip gets clogged and crusted, and I have to clean it off and drill it out on the regular.