I finally got around to using my pour type markers, definitely seems like I'll want some normal types around for really thin lines but man it's like magic just tapping a panel line and watching it automatically fill with black
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IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
edited May 2020
Bleh. Gundam Planet is still tossing me "An error occured on the server" things when I try to check out. Why won't you let me give you money?
EDIT: Finally got it to work using the PayPal option.
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I finally got around to using my pour type markers, definitely seems like I'll want some normal types around for really thin lines but man it's like magic just tapping a panel line and watching it automatically fill with black
@Kanden what kind/brand of markers are you using for this?
Gundam Markers are made by GSI Creos but they also own the Mr. Hobby line. I use mine for panel lining and covering up bad nub marks. If you want to paint entire pieces with them then there is a Gundam Marker airbrush but you are better off getting a real airbrush.
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Der Waffle MousBlame this on the misfortune of your birth.New Yark, New Yark.Registered Userregular
said it before and I'll say it again the fill type panel lining pens are literally some kind of space magic and I need to get more.
I'm not sure if I did something wrong, but does the pour type make plastic brittle like the Tamiya bottles of panel liner? Im building a mobile pod ball and the hands just kinda started falling apart as soon as I used the pour type on em.
The white one in that pack I posted, it started crumbling before I even start d the cleanup, i used the normal non-pour marker for the other hand and it's totally fine. Super weird I used it for everything else and no problems anywhere but the arm, wonder if it's just a weird type of plastic
The white one in that pack I posted, it started crumbling before I even start d the cleanup, i used the normal non-pour marker for the other hand and it's totally fine. Super weird I used it for everything else and no problems anywhere but the arm, wonder if it's just a weird type of plastic
The GM300 marker? That is an eraser so it would of been just thinner so depending on the type of thinner and plastic stuff can break. I always use acrylic thinner to clean up after my Gundam Markers.
Yeah, but like I said it started breaking apart before I had even started the cleaning process, I think I'm just gonna be more careful and test on runners before I go ham with it in the future
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
edited May 2020
I've never seen my pour markers do that kind of thing.
For reference, here's my current supply:
And then some close-ups, from left to right:
GM01 200 - Fine point black
GM302 200 - Pour type gray
GM21 200 - Brush type (I think that's right?) gray
GM10 200 - Chisel type black
That white marker (300) doesn't look like any pour type I've ever used. But it appears to be in the right numbering range?
Edit: Oh shit I lined up those two pictures decently well without even trying!
The white marker that comes with the pour type pack is the cleaner. The pour type markers, as with all of the Gundam markers, are oil based. They shouldn't cause your plastic to become brittle, but it depends on what GSI Creos thins the markers with. I know for a fact it's not enamel thinner like in the Tamiya Panel Line bottles, because that stuff has caused parts to disintegrate on me.
The green panel lining on my Nu Gundam's beam rifle is from a metallic green Gundam Marker which is a chisel tip. They are messy and a pain on edges but metallic red might work for you otherwise probably hand painting acrylic or lacquer.
turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
Grabbed a florescent pink gundam marker. The G-Else HG doesn't have a ton of surface detail so I think I can make it work. Grabbed a white one too cause if I'm gonna mess around with em I might as well make the rifle color accurate.
In my experience, the white, yellow, red, and pink Gundam markers are all kind of translucent. The red especially results in kind of a candy red translucent shell. Good for some uses.
Like I don't know how you're supposed to get solid white from a Gundam marker. It's a little better with the yellow and pink. Enough layers on a light background and you'll get there.
You can also decant the paint from the marker and use a brush or a plastic toothpick like I do.
I guess what I'm saying is good luck with pink on black. I truly hope it turns out better for you than it has for me.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
In my experience, the white, yellow, red, and pink Gundam markers are all kind of translucent. The red especially results in kind of a candy red translucent shell. Good for some uses.
Like I don't know how you're supposed to get solid white from a Gundam marker. It's a little better with the yellow and pink. Enough layers on a light background and you'll get there.
You can also decant the paint from the marker and use a brush or a plastic toothpick like I do.
I guess what I'm saying is good luck with pink on black. I truly hope it turns out better for you than it has for me.
Wouldn't it work to do some layers of white, and then when it's nice and dry, do the pink over top?
In my experience, the white, yellow, red, and pink Gundam markers are all kind of translucent. The red especially results in kind of a candy red translucent shell. Good for some uses.
Like I don't know how you're supposed to get solid white from a Gundam marker. It's a little better with the yellow and pink. Enough layers on a light background and you'll get there.
You can also decant the paint from the marker and use a brush or a plastic toothpick like I do.
I guess what I'm saying is good luck with pink on black. I truly hope it turns out better for you than it has for me.
Wouldn't it work to do some layers of white, and then when it's nice and dry, do the pink over top?
That would work better, but I seem to remember dry Gundam marker paint reactivating when new paint is applied. It doesn't handle coats well like acrylic paints, for example.
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H3KnucklesBut we decide which is rightand which is an illusion.Registered Userregular
In my experience, the white, yellow, red, and pink Gundam markers are all kind of translucent. The red especially results in kind of a candy red translucent shell. Good for some uses.
Like I don't know how you're supposed to get solid white from a Gundam marker. It's a little better with the yellow and pink. Enough layers on a light background and you'll get there.
You can also decant the paint from the marker and use a brush or a plastic toothpick like I do.
I guess what I'm saying is good luck with pink on black. I truly hope it turns out better for you than it has for me.
Wouldn't it work to do some layers of white, and then when it's nice and dry, do the pink over top?
That would work better, but I seem to remember dry Gundam marker paint reactivating when new paint is applied. It doesn't handle coats well like acrylic paints, for example.
In general, it’s grey on white, brown on red, and black on everything else, right?
Is there a way to get a black pour type? The only set I’ve seen is the one pictured above.
I take back what I said about the RG Gold Frame...the HG was enough of a pain in the ass. I almost lost the mouth piece at least twice.
That's the general advice. If you want to get more detailed it would be:
1) Grey - White, off whites, light desaturated colors (e.g. pale blues, pale purples, light greys, etc)
2) Brown - Yellow, light earthtones (tan, brown, etc), oranges. Personally, I don't like using the brown marker on reds and use the black. Don't use on greens unless you want a really rusted crevice corrosion look.
3) Black - Medium/dark greys, all saturated colors (yellows can be in brown or black), all darker colors.
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@Kanden what kind/brand of markers are you using for this?
I haven't used them a ton, mostly because I can't seem to get the coats to go down evenly. but they help, a lot, with spot treating things.
Am I looking for fill type?
The GM300 marker? That is an eraser so it would of been just thinner so depending on the type of thinner and plastic stuff can break. I always use acrylic thinner to clean up after my Gundam Markers.
For reference, here's my current supply:
And then some close-ups, from left to right:
GM01 200 - Fine point black
GM302 200 - Pour type gray
GM21 200 - Brush type (I think that's right?) gray
GM10 200 - Chisel type black
That white marker (300) doesn't look like any pour type I've ever used. But it appears to be in the right numbering range?
Edit: Oh shit I lined up those two pictures decently well without even trying!
Behold the 4 pieces that I put together, and then spent a lot of time panel lining them:
I hope those 5 markers I bought will be sufficient
He has a toy now.
And here is a side view of the beam rifle.
Kinda want to panel line the G-Else in hot pink when I get it.
Is there a way to get a black pour type? The only set I’ve seen is the one pictured above.
I take back what I said about the RG Gold Frame...the HG was enough of a pain in the ass. I almost lost the mouth piece at least twice.
https://www.redraccoongames.net/shop/c/p/Mr-Hobby---Pour-Type-Gundam-Marker---Black-x43053019.htm
https://www.redraccoongames.net/shop/c/p/Mr-Hobby---Pour-Type-Gundam-Marker---Grey-x43053020.htm
https://www.redraccoongames.net/shop/c/p/Mr-Hobby---Pour-Type-Gundam-Marker---Brown-x43703775.htm
The kit in question, just for reference
Like I don't know how you're supposed to get solid white from a Gundam marker. It's a little better with the yellow and pink. Enough layers on a light background and you'll get there.
You can also decant the paint from the marker and use a brush or a plastic toothpick like I do.
I guess what I'm saying is good luck with pink on black. I truly hope it turns out better for you than it has for me.
Wouldn't it work to do some layers of white, and then when it's nice and dry, do the pink over top?
Maybe I got the last one then
Whoops! Sorry!
That would work better, but I seem to remember dry Gundam marker paint reactivating when new paint is applied. It doesn't handle coats well like acrylic paints, for example.
Ah, that's a shame.
Also the two markers cost me $5 total so not like it's a huge deal if it doesnt work out.
That's the general advice. If you want to get more detailed it would be:
1) Grey - White, off whites, light desaturated colors (e.g. pale blues, pale purples, light greys, etc)
2) Brown - Yellow, light earthtones (tan, brown, etc), oranges. Personally, I don't like using the brown marker on reds and use the black. Don't use on greens unless you want a really rusted crevice corrosion look.
3) Black - Medium/dark greys, all saturated colors (yellows can be in brown or black), all darker colors.