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[Homeowner/House] Thread. How long is it going to take? Two weeks!

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Posts

  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    Most of the strength of I-beams comes from their shape, so engineered wood I-beams absolutely are very strong.

  • electricitylikesmeelectricitylikesme Registered User regular
    zagdrob wrote: »
    Do the unsupported 2x4 joints run underneath complementary rafters? If that's the case, you can probably drop short 2x4 posts straight down from the rafter and use tie plates to essentially turn them into trusses. You will lose a few feet on either side of the attic, but it should remove any fear of unsupported spans.

    You could probably even do just a single one in the middle dividing the attic in half since they are 12 and 16 foot spans.

    Another consideration would be running a single 2x6 or 2x8 the length of the attic and trying it to each of the 2x4s using a saddle tie. Hang it on either end and it'll definitely handle any weight and take care of sagging. Might not be officially the 'right' way to do things but if the ceiling hasn't fallen and isn't really sagging it should be more than adequate.

    Edit - also, I wouldn't sweat the 12' span. One foot further than code is kinda a shrug and it might have been to code when it was built. The only place I might consider doing something if its where the AC unit is set and dealing with some extra weight. Otherwise I'd just consider bracing / reinforcing the 16' span.

    Honestly I was thinking about this earlier - your standard static loading safety factor is 1.7x. Is there really a problem here? Does the area look like it's got a problem (sagging, cracking?).

  • matt has a problemmatt has a problem Points to 'off' Points to 'on'Registered User regular
    The 12 foot span has about a 1 inch sag in the center compared to the sides, which, if that was the only room I'd just grit my teeth and accept it. The 16 foot span is sagging 3 inches in the middle compared to the sides though. So since I'm fixing one I might as well fix both.

    nibXTE7.png
  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    I just used so much roundup on these weeds on gravel under my deck... how do I get rid of the weeds after they die?

  • CarpyCarpy Registered User regular
    More gravel

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    While enticing I think scalding the HOA won't actually do much good.

  • Romantic UndeadRomantic Undead Registered User regular
    Well, it finally happened! After what seems like a million bids, we finally got 2(!) offers accepted!

    We opted for a suburban bungalow right next to a lovely park/playground and bike path that travels the entire town. Final price, $343k

    3DS FC: 1547-5210-6531
  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    edited June 2021
    I picked up some old work electrical boxes for some Ethernet drops, but the damn things don't have those tabs that clamp onto the back of the drywall. I don't know how you're supposed to install these without obliterating the sheetrock.
    2sxqelmvpgwl.png

    I'm going to pick up some old work low voltage brackets instead.
    vpqdfc7avdqb.png

    Mugsley on
  • ShadowfireShadowfire Vermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered User regular
    edited June 2021
    Those are meant to be screwed into the studs when the walls are still open. You want low voltage gang boxes.

    Edit: wait, those are weird. There's usually a couple screws with arms that will swing wide like any other low voltage box, but yours doesn't even have the openings for them.

    Uh...

    Shadowfire on
    WiiU: Windrunner ; Guild Wars 2: Shadowfire.3940 ; PSN: Bradcopter
  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    Yeah. It's confusing af

  • CptHamiltonCptHamilton Registered User regular
    edited June 2021
    Mugsley wrote: »
    Yeah. It's confusing af

    I went to a hardware store on the weekend for old work boxes. They had exactly one 1-gang old work box which, like yours, had no tabs. I don't understand it. They also had some "old/new work" boxes which had the usual new work integrated nails plus a weird semicircular break-away tab with a bunch of holes. No idea how that's meant to work, either.

    For ethernet the low-voltage "box"es should be fine. Dunno if there's an "old work, 1-gang" shortage due to the pandemic or what.

    Edit: I guess that old work box in the photos could have four screws into the drywall which would be hidden by the outlet/switch plate. Guess you'd probably want drywall anchors. And maybe one of the extra-large plates...

    Double Edit: Unrelated-ish: My new house is all brick. Anybody have a "box of anchor screws" recommendation for mounting things on brick? I got a box of masonry anchor screws on Amazon. Tried one today. I guessed at a masonry bit size for my hammer drill and then tried driving the screw with my normal driver. It got it in there far enough to hang the outdoor clock/themometer I was trying to hang but it still stuck out like most of an inch. Works for this application but not, like, hanging plant hooks or similar. My doorbell came with brick anchors and my various TV mounts had brick/masonry anchors I didn't use. I've got a big box of drywall anchors and screws in different sizes. Does something similar not exist for brick? Can I just use the drywall ones? That seems wrong but I guess it's just "squeeze and deform the plastic so it doesn't slip out" either way...

    CptHamilton on
    PSN,Steam,Live | CptHamiltonian
  • zagdrobzagdrob Registered User regular
    Get a longer masonry bit and drill out deeper than the anchors. Pound the anchor into the hole flush or a 16th of an inch more.

    Hang whatever on it tight using the screw that fits the anchor but not over tight so it starts getting depressed.

    There are tapcon sets for this specific purpose. Run the anchor tapcon in deep with a big philips and then screw the mount into it.

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

  • HappylilElfHappylilElf Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

    How much clearance is there between the underside of your deck and the ground?

  • SiliconStewSiliconStew Registered User regular
    edited June 2021
    That blue box is a standard electrical box but for shallow mounting, that is, what you have have with a cinder block wall with 1" furring strips and drywall or paneling over it. That's why it's not as deep as a normal box and so isn't deep enough to have the flip out mounting tabs. It's not a low voltage box for Ethernet cable.

    SiliconStew on
    Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
  • CorvusCorvus . VancouverRegistered User regular
    Well, the one tree in the middle of our south and west exposed back yard is starting to die. It's a plum that's probably at least 50 years old.

    Anyone got a recommendation for a good shade tree that's low maintenance.? We probably don't want to replace this with another fruit tree, we've got a second plum at the back of the property, a huge grape vine, and some new dwarf fruit trees in our front yard.

    :so_raven:
  • CarpyCarpy Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

    If they start to die fast enough and you have enough clearance under the deck you could probably do a good enough job to get the HOA off your back by just getting in there with a shovel and turning the gravel over.

  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    CptHamilton, if you're using a drill driver, you'll find it easier if you use an impact driver, although they can break the fasteners occasionally if they're plated zinc.

  • CptHamiltonCptHamilton Registered User regular
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    CptHamilton, if you're using a drill driver, you'll find it easier if you use an impact driver, although they can break the fasteners occasionally if they're plated zinc.

    I used an impact drill to make the initial hole, then switched to a regular driver for driving in the screw. I should also drive the screw with the impact tool? I worried that would either damage the threads or the impact would widen the grooves made by the threads, rendering them ineffective.

    PSN,Steam,Live | CptHamiltonian
  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    CptHamilton, if you're using a drill driver, you'll find it easier if you use an impact driver, although they can break the fasteners occasionally if they're plated zinc.

    I used an impact drill to make the initial hole, then switched to a regular driver for driving in the screw. I should also drive the screw with the impact tool? I worried that would either damage the threads or the impact would widen the grooves made by the threads, rendering them ineffective.

    You probably used a hammer drill to drill the hole? An impact driver provides twisting impact rather than forward impact like a hammer drill does. You definitely don't want to drive screws with a drill in hammer mode. This is an impact driver: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/2453-22 It is only useful for driving screws or lag bolts but it is very good at it. While a drill/driver sounds like a whine when it drives and then brrr when it clutches out and stops trying, an impact driver whines until enough resistance is met that it goes brr and hammers the screw in as you would if you were doing it by hand and jerking the screwdriver rather than applying constant pressure, if that makes sense.

  • CptHamiltonCptHamilton Registered User regular
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    CptHamilton, if you're using a drill driver, you'll find it easier if you use an impact driver, although they can break the fasteners occasionally if they're plated zinc.

    I used an impact drill to make the initial hole, then switched to a regular driver for driving in the screw. I should also drive the screw with the impact tool? I worried that would either damage the threads or the impact would widen the grooves made by the threads, rendering them ineffective.

    You probably used a hammer drill to drill the hole? An impact driver provides twisting impact rather than forward impact like a hammer drill does. You definitely don't want to drive screws with a drill in hammer mode. This is an impact driver: https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Fastening/2453-22 It is only useful for driving screws or lag bolts but it is very good at it. While a drill/driver sounds like a whine when it drives and then brrr when it clutches out and stops trying, an impact driver whines until enough resistance is met that it goes brr and hammers the screw in as you would if you were doing it by hand and jerking the screwdriver rather than applying constant pressure, if that makes sense.

    You're correct. When shopping for a hammer drill I kept mixing up the term with an impact driver in my head. I actually own an impact driver that came with a tool set which I've never used. The question now, then, is whether I can find it easily amongst the boxes of stuff the moving company packed from my garage...

    Thanks for the info, though!

    PSN,Steam,Live | CptHamiltonian
  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    Oh well you're in for a treat if you can find it, you'll wonder why you ever drove screws with anything else!

  • KetarKetar Come on upstairs we're having a partyRegistered User regular
    Felix Dennis is a publisher who created PC World, MacUser and Maxim among other magazines. He was also apparently a big fan of Treasure Island and tithe barns.

    Sometimes, people who have a lot of money decide to build a house that really highlights their favorite things. Like this house that he built in Shakespeare's hometown.

    Imagine trying to relax while this gazes down upon you:
    lt321ztdzifl.jpeg




  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    That's basically a big hall with a giant pool instead of a living room. It's even open to the kitchen and dining area. I wonder what the climate in there is like.

    Also, so much wood, so little natural light. And everything is so busy.

  • SimpsoniaSimpsonia Registered User regular
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    Oh well you're in for a treat if you can find it, you'll wonder why you ever drove screws with anything else!

    The one caveat to keep in mind though is delicate(ish) things an impact driver can destroy via torque it applies. Most prefab furniture you assemble, screws for cabinet hardware/hinges, etc, you'll still want to use a drill on the appropriate clutch setting so you don't overdrive the screw.

  • zagdrobzagdrob Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    Oh well you're in for a treat if you can find it, you'll wonder why you ever drove screws with anything else!

    The one caveat to keep in mind though is delicate(ish) things an impact driver can destroy via torque it applies. Most prefab furniture you assemble, screws for cabinet hardware/hinges, etc, you'll still want to use a drill on the appropriate clutch setting so you don't overdrive the screw.

    Yeah I am driving cement counter forms into hardy board and it takes a delicate touch to drive tight without stripping the hole out.

    But if you are just blasting construction / deck screws through wood? A good impact is heaven. Our old Porter Cable was nice but we just upgraded to the Dewalt ecosystem for lithium and it it is amazing. The LEDs are a great touch so you can see what you are doing, but I might get one of their Atomic impacts just for close quarter / confined work where the XR is too big.

    And I thought the flashlight was a gimmick / padding out the number of pieces, but it is absolutely invaluable throwing the 2 amp battery on it and setting where it illuminates under the cabinet.

  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    Oh well you're in for a treat if you can find it, you'll wonder why you ever drove screws with anything else!

    The one caveat to keep in mind though is delicate(ish) things an impact driver can destroy via torque it applies. Most prefab furniture you assemble, screws for cabinet hardware/hinges, etc, you'll still want to use a drill on the appropriate clutch setting so you don't overdrive the screw.

    Very true! The milwaukee I linked has four different settings to help with that and one is for self taping screws so you don't shoot it straight on through.but there is definitely finess to it. For fine furniture sometimes I'll only power screws most of the way and finish by hand.

  • CptHamiltonCptHamilton Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    That's basically a big hall with a giant pool instead of a living room. It's even open to the kitchen and dining area. I wonder what the climate in there is like.

    Also, so much wood, so little natural light. And everything is so busy.

    Considering it's a GBP 4 million "house" and the "library" is wallpaper pictures of books, I'm gonna guess it tends toward damp. Having stayed at a hotel in Costa Rica in the rain forest where the HVAC only ran when you were present in the room, I'm gonna guess the linens in that weird-ass pirate bed are real unpleasant.
    zagdrob wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    Gilgaron wrote: »
    Oh well you're in for a treat if you can find it, you'll wonder why you ever drove screws with anything else!

    The one caveat to keep in mind though is delicate(ish) things an impact driver can destroy via torque it applies. Most prefab furniture you assemble, screws for cabinet hardware/hinges, etc, you'll still want to use a drill on the appropriate clutch setting so you don't overdrive the screw.

    Yeah I am driving cement counter forms into hardy board and it takes a delicate touch to drive tight without stripping the hole out.

    But if you are just blasting construction / deck screws through wood? A good impact is heaven. Our old Porter Cable was nice but we just upgraded to the Dewalt ecosystem for lithium and it it is amazing. The LEDs are a great touch so you can see what you are doing, but I might get one of their Atomic impacts just for close quarter / confined work where the XR is too big.

    And I thought the flashlight was a gimmick / padding out the number of pieces, but it is absolutely invaluable throwing the 2 amp battery on it and setting where it illuminates under the cabinet.

    The Dewalt 20V Max bundle is what's got my yet-unused impact driver in it. They are quite nice. And the drill flashlight really is a revelation.

    PSN,Steam,Live | CptHamiltonian
  • GilgaronGilgaron Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    That's basically a big hall with a giant pool instead of a living room. It's even open to the kitchen and dining area. I wonder what the climate in there is like.

    Also, so much wood, so little natural light. And everything is so busy.

    I bet the timber framers had a ball building all that stuff, though!

  • evilmrhenryevilmrhenry Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    That's basically a big hall with a giant pool instead of a living room. It's even open to the kitchen and dining area. I wonder what the climate in there is like.

    Also, so much wood, so little natural light. And everything is so busy.

    Considering it's a GBP 4 million "house" and the "library" is wallpaper pictures of books, I'm gonna guess it tends toward damp. Having stayed at a hotel in Costa Rica in the rain forest where the HVAC only ran when you were present in the room, I'm gonna guess the linens in that weird-ass pirate bed are real unpleasant.

    Guess what I missed the first time. (Thought there were books, just behind glass, and that's why they looked glossy and flat.)

    Anyway, for such a large house, there's very little actual room there. There's two bedrooms, and various entertainment spaces, but if you wanted a model train set, or a gym, or a sex dungeon, or an actual library, your options are terrible. (It does come with a large cottage, but I'm critiquing the main house.) Hope you like the pool, because there's not much else to do.

  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    The cottages seem to have almost as much sensible spaces as the main building.

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

    How much clearance is there between the underside of your deck and the ground?
    Decks off the second floor so 10 feet.

  • zepherinzepherin Russian warship, go fuck yourself Registered User regular
    Carpy wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

    If they start to die fast enough and you have enough clearance under the deck you could probably do a good enough job to get the HOA off your back by just getting in there with a shovel and turning the gravel over.
    ...That is a really good idea.

  • HappylilElfHappylilElf Registered User regular
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Shadowfire wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Simpsonia wrote: »
    zepherin wrote: »
    Carpy wrote: »
    More gravel
    The internet have me
    Weed wacker and fire.

    So this is just as good.

    I mean also depends on how much you'll be looking at that area. Time will clear up those dead weeds just as surely, just might take a little (or a lot) longer.
    The HOA says I have till June 9th.

    Fucking HOAs.

    Already throw boiling water all over them?

    I’m sure the weeds will be killed. Like I drowned them in Roundup. After the weeds are dead how do I remove them easily?

    If they start to die fast enough and you have enough clearance under the deck you could probably do a good enough job to get the HOA off your back by just getting in there with a shovel and turning the gravel over.
    ...That is a really good idea.

    That or, with a 10' clearance, fire.

    Have a garden hose turned on with a sprayer nozzle on the end nearby just in case but a can of AquaNet and a bic lighter will get the job done.

  • MugsleyMugsley DelawareRegistered User regular
    If you're considering the Atomic line for tight quarters work, take a look at the Bosch and Milwaukee offerings that have the battery in the handle.

    I've got DeWalt for the major project tools but I have the Bosch kit for small jobs for just that reason. Even with its own batteries, it's worth the purchase. Plus toolkits are on sale again.

  • That_GuyThat_Guy I don't wanna be that guy Registered User regular
    Mugsley wrote: »
    If you're considering the Atomic line for tight quarters work, take a look at the Bosch and Milwaukee offerings that have the battery in the handle.

    I've got DeWalt for the major project tools but I have the Bosch kit for small jobs for just that reason. Even with its own batteries, it's worth the purchase. Plus toolkits are on sale again.

    If you have the money for them Makita Red tools (the ones made in Japan for the Japanese) are some of the best out there. They are one of the very few tool lines that haven't been value engineered into oblivion.

This discussion has been closed.