Is there any rule/recommendation for how high or low to put an exterior wall vent for a stacked dryer in the garage?
No, but code is a maximum of 25 feet from the dryer itself. Subtract 2.5 feet for every 45 degree bend and 5 feet for every 90 degree.
Does it need to be rigid pipe if it's horizontal?
It's not required, bit I'd recommend rigid anywhere it's possible yeah. A short run of the flexible stuff from the dryer to make positioning easier is fine, but the main run being rigid means far fewer clogging problems.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Is there any rule/recommendation for how high or low to put an exterior wall vent for a stacked dryer in the garage?
No, but code is a maximum of 25 feet from the dryer itself. Subtract 2.5 feet for every 45 degree bend and 5 feet for every 90 degree.
Does it need to be rigid pipe if it's horizontal?
It's not required, bit I'd recommend rigid anywhere it's possible yeah. A short run of the flexible stuff from the dryer to make positioning easier is fine, but the main run being rigid means far fewer clogging problems.
Code limits flex duct to 5 feet or 14 feet depending on if your state follows the Uniform Mechanical Code (UMC) or the International Building Code (IBC).
A lintel is typically just a piece of angle iron that you grout into place. For a vent, I'd expect a big box store to have some small pieces you can buy but you can potentially look for ironworkers/welder companies/erectors to at least provide the steel (if not do the job fully).
A lintel is typically just a piece of angle iron that you grout into place. For a vent, I'd expect a big box store to have some small pieces you can buy but you can potentially look for ironworkers/welder companies/erectors to at least provide the steel (if not do the job fully).
Yeah, I just have no experience with grouting or masonry beyond putting holes in it. Cutting a hole seems straight-forward. The lintel has to be a good bit wider than the hole, though, and digging out the grout from between the remaining bricks to get the lintel in, and then grouting it into place in the narrow hole, seems easy to fuck up.
I tried a couple more HVAC companies and got shot down. Guess I'll either try some random handymen or look into doing the round duct version.
In other news: my old place got appraised at full sale price today for the buyers, so that's cool. And further evidence appraisals are full of shit right now considering how (seemingly, to me, anyway) nuts the sales price is.
A lintel is typically just a piece of angle iron that you grout into place. For a vent, I'd expect a big box store to have some small pieces you can buy but you can potentially look for ironworkers/welder companies/erectors to at least provide the steel (if not do the job fully).
Yeah, I just have no experience with grouting or masonry beyond putting holes in it. Cutting a hole seems straight-forward. The lintel has to be a good bit wider than the hole, though, and digging out the grout from between the remaining bricks to get the lintel in, and then grouting it into place in the narrow hole, seems easy to fuck up.
I tried a couple more HVAC companies and got shot down. Guess I'll either try some random handymen or look into doing the round duct version.
In other news: my old place got appraised at full sale price today for the buyers, so that's cool. And further evidence appraisals are full of shit right now considering how (seemingly, to me, anyway) nuts the sales price is.
The appraisal is basically a low level due diligence element - the appraiser is there to make sure that there isn't something massively overlooked to protect the bank.
Curious if tradespeople in your respective areas suck as much as they do here.
At times I feel like it would be easier to conjure and evil spirit from the ether than to get a tradesperson to do some work.
And around here it's literally all of them - doesn't matter the job. Getting one on the phone is a near Herculean feat.
A lintel is typically just a piece of angle iron that you grout into place. For a vent, I'd expect a big box store to have some small pieces you can buy but you can potentially look for ironworkers/welder companies/erectors to at least provide the steel (if not do the job fully).
Yeah, I just have no experience with grouting or masonry beyond putting holes in it. Cutting a hole seems straight-forward. The lintel has to be a good bit wider than the hole, though, and digging out the grout from between the remaining bricks to get the lintel in, and then grouting it into place in the narrow hole, seems easy to fuck up.
I tried a couple more HVAC companies and got shot down. Guess I'll either try some random handymen or look into doing the round duct version.
In other news: my old place got appraised at full sale price today for the buyers, so that's cool. And further evidence appraisals are full of shit right now considering how (seemingly, to me, anyway) nuts the sales price is.
I replaced some shitty basement windows with glass block, and S Mortar is actually pretty easy to use, thinking back I removed a cinderblock garden wall I didn't like with a ball pein hammer and a pair of cold chisels, so it may not really be too bad if you're confident about getting the location of the hole right. You use cold chisels instead of other tools because the steel isn't hardened so much so it won't break off or shatter, just mushroom after a while.
Curious if tradespeople in your respective areas suck as much as they do here.
At times I feel like it would be easier to conjure and evil spirit from the ether than to get a tradesperson to do some work.
And around here it's literally all of them - doesn't matter the job. Getting one on the phone is a near Herculean feat.
That's pretty typical if you don't have a relationship with them or referral from family / friends. And even then it can be tough.
Most of the big trades make their money off either contracted jobs or people who are over a barrel - i.e. emergency plumbing / HVAC. Coming out to do a small or moderate job typically isn't worth their time.
One of our family friends is a plumber and said he's said he won't get out of bed for less than $1000. So even though it seems like a job that's $500 for two hours of work would be well worth their time, by the time they plan it, get there, do the job, and leave it's half a day assuming everything went well.
If you were a general contractor who they could make $10k for a week's worth of work I guarantee you they would be on the line with you. Just the breaks.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Curious if tradespeople in your respective areas suck as much as they do here.
At times I feel like it would be easier to conjure and evil spirit from the ether than to get a tradesperson to do some work.
And around here it's literally all of them - doesn't matter the job. Getting one on the phone is a near Herculean feat.
That's pretty typical if you don't have a relationship with them or referral from family / friends. And even then it can be tough.
Most of the big trades make their money off either contracted jobs or people who are over a barrel - i.e. emergency plumbing / HVAC. Coming out to do a small or moderate job typically isn't worth their time.
One of our family friends is a plumber and said he's said he won't get out of bed for less than $1000. So even though it seems like a job that's $500 for two hours of work would be well worth their time, by the time they plan it, get there, do the job, and leave it's half a day assuming everything went well.
If you were a general contractor who they could make $10k for a week's worth of work I guarantee you they would be on the line with you. Just the breaks.
Yeah you kind of end up stuck with a few of the purely residential medium sized job firms, and they often suck.
That being said when you have a million dollar sub contract they pick up anytime I call.
It drives me nuts because a good number of my friends are successful tradespeople and even dealing with them is tough.
Common things I hear are "I spend my time on job sites, not answering calls/emails". Which, like, fine but SOMEBODY needs to do that? Then inevitably they complain about work shortages come the winter.
It drives me nuts because a good number of my friends are successful tradespeople and even dealing with them is tough.
Common things I hear are "I spend my time on job sites, not answering calls/emails". Which, like, fine but SOMEBODY needs to do that? Then inevitably they complain about work shortages come the winter.
It's been almost impossible for us too. We finally had someone come out and look at the things we needed done, then flaked on providing the estimate. Another one who actually got back to us had just booked a job doing a complete retail location reno, so they suggested we go with Home Depot/Lowes recommended people for some of our work as it would be easier than trying to find someone on our own.
All this, and yet, my cousin's son, who is 14 and interested in going into trades is being discouraged from doing so by his teachers who seem to be stuck on the "everyone must go to university" bullshit they were doing when I was in jr. high like 25 years ago.
This marks the end of all the wall and door moving and reframing I had to do for the bedrooms, bathrooms and hallways.
The closet on the right use to end where that mess on the far wall is. We expanded it to 40" deep to turn it into a laundry room, I had to move the door to the master bedroom over about 10" to accommodate it. The master bathroom is behind the wall on the right, which is how I'm getting water for the washer. I added 2" to the bathroom side of that wall to turn it into a 2x6 depth so I can run plumbing and the 4" dryer duct up through the ceiling and outside. It's about 119" wide which was just enough space for a 60" opening and a 48" opening with 2x4 supports on either side and a triple in the middle. It's not structural so all the wall has to hold up is itself and the bifold doors that'll go in.
Shot opposite the laundry room, this'll be an office.
Shot from inside the office. It all use to be one room, with the full width closet. The opening to the right on the near side of the stud wall where you see yellow use to be the doorway to the office, it's getting drywalled over. The opening to the right on the far side of the stud wall is the new hallway I cut out. The master bedroom was previously only connected to the house through the office, making it by code not technically a bedroom, since it didn't open to a hallway.
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
Oh also all the drywall is cut 12" up from the floor because since I'm putting in hardwood, the underlayment and flooring will raise the floor up 1.5 inches, and there'd be nothing for the bottom of the drywall to nail into. So I have to put 2x4 blocking in between all the studs all the way around.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
It drives me nuts because a good number of my friends are successful tradespeople and even dealing with them is tough.
Common things I hear are "I spend my time on job sites, not answering calls/emails". Which, like, fine but SOMEBODY needs to do that? Then inevitably they complain about work shortages come the winter.
With the exception of exterior painting and furnace work, I definitely recommend having renovations done late fall or winter. I need to replace my roof, but it’s not actively leaking so I’m waiting for the fall.
Oh also all the drywall is cut 12" up from the floor because since I'm putting in hardwood, the underlayment and flooring will raise the floor up 1.5 inches, and there'd be nothing for the bottom of the drywall to nail into. So I have to put 2x4 blocking in between all the studs all the way around.
I gotta ask: how much help do you have and do you have training (or does the person helping you)? I'm ok doing basic repairs, especially mechanical, minor plumbing, painting (with mishaps), and some minor repair work, but I'm always so envious of people who have learned enough to open a wall, reframe, just straight up build. It's such an awesome skill to have.
Regardless, that looks great and best of luck building it out.
My dad helps with heavy lifting, and I bounce stuff off him when I'm stuck, but besides that I'm doing it by myself. My parents added or reconfigured at least one room in every house we lived in so I was exposed to it my whole life really, just picked things up as I grew up and learned what I didn't know when I needed to. I worked at a 100 year old bed & breakfast all through high school too doing maintenance, so I got exposed to the horrors of old construction there and all the things you have to do to fix decades of neglect. Spent time after college doing drywall finish work and painting houses.
My dad helps with heavy lifting, and I bounce stuff off him when I'm stuck, but besides that I'm doing it by myself. My parents added or reconfigured at least one room in every house we lived in so I was exposed to it my whole life really, just picked things up as I grew up and learned what I didn't know when I needed to. I worked at a 100 year old bed & breakfast all through high school too doing maintenance, so I got exposed to the horrors of old construction there and all the things you have to do to fix decades of neglect. Spent time after college doing drywall finish work and painting houses.
Yeah I'm in the same place restoring the farm.
I'm sure 50-60 years (or my own self, six years later) is gonna be wondering what dumbass did this stupid janky shit. But recognize it worked and learn and do better.
I had an entire room where the walls were old boxes from the late 40s stapled to studs and wall papered over. Having that as the bar you need to clear is...surprisingly freeing.
Our real house I do take more seriously with the associated anxiety. But there are places I've been like 'fuck it, paneling works' and moved on with no regrets.
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
Do you not have to use noggings / dwangs when framing a wall? The rule of thumb I've always gone by is any wall that's higher than about 4' needs one to maintain rigidity.
Just seems odd to me seeing all those vertical runs without any horizontal between them, but it may be a UK / US difference
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The one about the fucking space hairdresser and the cowboy. He's got a tinfoil pal and a pedal bin
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BrodyThe WatchThe First ShoreRegistered Userregular
Oh also all the drywall is cut 12" up from the floor because since I'm putting in hardwood, the underlayment and flooring will raise the floor up 1.5 inches, and there'd be nothing for the bottom of the drywall to nail into. So I have to put 2x4 blocking in between all the studs all the way around.
I gotta ask: how much help do you have and do you have training (or does the person helping you)? I'm ok doing basic repairs, especially mechanical, minor plumbing, painting (with mishaps), and some minor repair work, but I'm always so envious of people who have learned enough to open a wall, reframe, just straight up build. It's such an awesome skill to have.
Regardless, that looks great and best of luck building it out.
After having helped my brother in law with replumbing my house, I'm starting to come to the conclusion that a lot of this isn't particularly difficult, its just being confident, and obviously somewhat physically demanding. Except drywall, fuck drywall. I mean, obviously its not nothing, but also with like, framing. Its a piece of wood top and bottom, and then vertical pieces on 12"/16" centers (I'm going to pretend like the door framing isn't there, cause I have no idea what that requires (although it looks like its just 2 x 6's, two deep, making the outside of the door space)). Plumbing, other than all the things about pipe diameter, which admittedly I wouldn't have known off the top of my head like my brother, was just cold water from the street to the water heater, with a t for the bathroom/kitchen and one for the washer/dryer, then hot water coming back. Ofc, having said "oh, it wasn't that complicated", it still took us ~6 months of working weekends to get it done...
"I will write your name in the ruin of them. I will paint you across history in the color of their blood."
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
Do you not have to use noggings / dwangs when framing a wall? The rule of thumb I've always gone by is any wall that's higher than about 4' needs one to maintain rigidity.
Just seems odd to me seeing all those vertical runs without any horizontal between them, but it may be a UK / US difference
Nah, I've never seen a wall in the US with one. Thats an interesting difference.
Edit: I guess I've never really looked at the exterior/load bearing walls of a two story structure, they maybe be more common there?
Brody on
"I will write your name in the ruin of them. I will paint you across history in the color of their blood."
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
Do you not have to use noggings / dwangs when framing a wall? The rule of thumb I've always gone by is any wall that's higher than about 4' needs one to maintain rigidity.
Just seems odd to me seeing all those vertical runs without any horizontal between them, but it may be a UK / US difference
In the US, putting drywall or plywood sheathing up counts as horizontal bracing for code. Technically I should be putting fire blocking, a row of 2x4 spacers horizontally halfway up the wall, to be strictly within code but the entire rest of the house isn't fire blocked so I'm skipping it.
Same goes for floors, the subfloor counts as horizontal bracing on the floor joists.
It may be different in other parts of the country that are prone to hurricanes or earthquakes though, I'm not sure.
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
Do you not have to use noggings / dwangs when framing a wall? The rule of thumb I've always gone by is any wall that's higher than about 4' needs one to maintain rigidity.
Just seems odd to me seeing all those vertical runs without any horizontal between them, but it may be a UK / US difference
In the US, putting drywall or plywood sheathing up counts as horizontal bracing for code. Technically I should be putting fire blocking, a row of 2x4 spacers horizontally halfway up the wall, to be strictly within code but the entire rest of the house isn't fire blocked so I'm skipping it.
Same goes for floors, the subfloor counts as horizontal bracing on the floor joists.
It may be different in other parts of the country that are prone to hurricanes or earthquakes though, I'm not sure.
I get the purpose of fire blocking, but boy does it make running cable a chore.
homeowner in Michigan found an unusual surprise when renovating his porch.
David Olson, 33, said he uncovered over 150 bowling balls when he demolished the concrete slab of the porch at his home in Norton Shores.
"Before I smashed anything with a hammer, I was able to pull one of the cinder blocks on the side out and take a peek," Olson said. "I saw a bunch of sand and half of a black and blue sphere, and that's when I was intrigued and started brushing the sand off of it and realized it was a bowling ball."
He then began to dig further into the sand and realized there wasn't just one ball under his stoop -- before he knew it he uncovered 15 bowling balls. Since he had no idea how long the balls had been there, or how they got there, Olson called the manufacturer, Brunswick Bowling Products, to confirm that none of the materials used to make the balls had turned toxic.
Olson said Brunswick confirmed they were clean and had him take pictures. Some balls had serial numbers and engravings that dated back to the 1950's, the same time frame in which Olson's house was built. However, it's unclear when they were put under the home."
The article mentions the owners' intent to use them as decoration. Personally I think using them as ammunition for a home-made trebuchet would be much more entertaining.
Also trying to fathom the thinking that goes into using bowling balls as some kind of in-fill.
Photosaurus on
"If complete and utter chaos was lightning, then he'd be the sort to stand on a hilltop in a thunderstorm wearing wet copper armour and shouting 'All gods are bastards'."
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
Oh also all the drywall is cut 12" up from the floor because since I'm putting in hardwood, the underlayment and flooring will raise the floor up 1.5 inches, and there'd be nothing for the bottom of the drywall to nail into. So I have to put 2x4 blocking in between all the studs all the way around.
I gotta ask: how much help do you have and do you have training (or does the person helping you)? I'm ok doing basic repairs, especially mechanical, minor plumbing, painting (with mishaps), and some minor repair work, but I'm always so envious of people who have learned enough to open a wall, reframe, just straight up build. It's such an awesome skill to have.
Regardless, that looks great and best of luck building it out.
Yeah same here. I'm putting off what is by all accounts a pretty easy Quickcrete job to fix our front steps.
Just worried about screwing something up, even though i know outside of plumbing or electrical, the cost of failure is usually low.
homeowner in Michigan found an unusual surprise when renovating his porch.
David Olson, 33, said he uncovered over 150 bowling balls when he demolished the concrete slab of the porch at his home in Norton Shores.
"Before I smashed anything with a hammer, I was able to pull one of the cinder blocks on the side out and take a peek," Olson said. "I saw a bunch of sand and half of a black and blue sphere, and that's when I was intrigued and started brushing the sand off of it and realized it was a bowling ball."
He then began to dig further into the sand and realized there wasn't just one ball under his stoop -- before he knew it he uncovered 15 bowling balls. Since he had no idea how long the balls had been there, or how they got there, Olson called the manufacturer, Brunswick Bowling Products, to confirm that none of the materials used to make the balls had turned toxic.
Olson said Brunswick confirmed they were clean and had him take pictures. Some balls had serial numbers and engravings that dated back to the 1950's, the same time frame in which Olson's house was built. However, it's unclear when they were put under the home."
The article mentions the owners' intent to use them as decoration. Personally I think using them as ammunition for a home-made trebuchet would be much more entertaining.
Also trying to fathom the thinking that goes into using bowling balls as some kind of in-fill.
I assume whomever it was had access to a very large number of bowling balls for some reason (owned a bowling alley? joke bid in a bowling alley's going out of business auction gone awry?) at the same time they were building their porch.
Whomever digs up the raised garden bed in the back yard at my old house is probably going to be pretty confused about there being a bunch of window screens under it. I needed something to keep bugs out, didn't have any handy cardboard, and did have a pile of torn window screens ripped up by my dog.
homeowner in Michigan found an unusual surprise when renovating his porch.
David Olson, 33, said he uncovered over 150 bowling balls when he demolished the concrete slab of the porch at his home in Norton Shores.
"Before I smashed anything with a hammer, I was able to pull one of the cinder blocks on the side out and take a peek," Olson said. "I saw a bunch of sand and half of a black and blue sphere, and that's when I was intrigued and started brushing the sand off of it and realized it was a bowling ball."
He then began to dig further into the sand and realized there wasn't just one ball under his stoop -- before he knew it he uncovered 15 bowling balls. Since he had no idea how long the balls had been there, or how they got there, Olson called the manufacturer, Brunswick Bowling Products, to confirm that none of the materials used to make the balls had turned toxic.
Olson said Brunswick confirmed they were clean and had him take pictures. Some balls had serial numbers and engravings that dated back to the 1950's, the same time frame in which Olson's house was built. However, it's unclear when they were put under the home."
The article mentions the owners' intent to use them as decoration. Personally I think using them as ammunition for a home-made trebuchet would be much more entertaining.
Also trying to fathom the thinking that goes into using bowling balls as some kind of in-fill.
I assume whomever it was had access to a very large number of bowling balls for some reason (owned a bowling alley? joke bid in a bowling alley's going out of business auction gone awry?) at the same time they were building their porch.
Whomever digs up the raised garden bed in the back yard at my old house is probably going to be pretty confused about there being a bunch of window screens under it. I needed something to keep bugs out, didn't have any handy cardboard, and did have a pile of torn window screens ripped up by my dog.
There was a bowling alley boom in the 1950s and subsequent bust in the early 1960s, so it wouldn't surprise me to find out that they were from a bowling alley going out of business.
All this, and yet, my cousin's son, who is 14 and interested in going into trades is being discouraged from doing so by his teachers who seem to be stuck on the "everyone must go to university" bullshit they were doing when I was in jr. high like 25 years ago.
https://www.npr.org/2021/07/01/1012310352/desperately-seeking-construction-workers
Yeah sheesh. I heard this recently, wherein they speak to a woman running a Kansas City based carpentry firm that can't find enough skilled tradepersons. She pays "hourly all-in wage, we probably start about $45 dollars an hour: then. Now we're about $65." That includes benefits, and for anyone not familiar with USD that is a damned fine (approaching if not well into upper middle-class) wage anywhere in the country, never mind the mid-west.
All this, and yet, my cousin's son, who is 14 and interested in going into trades is being discouraged from doing so by his teachers who seem to be stuck on the "everyone must go to university" bullshit they were doing when I was in jr. high like 25 years ago.
https://www.npr.org/2021/07/01/1012310352/desperately-seeking-construction-workers
Yeah sheesh. I heard this recently, wherein they speak to a woman running a Kansas City based carpentry firm that can't find enough skilled tradepersons. She pays "hourly all-in wage, we probably start about $45 dollars an hour: then. Now we're about $65." That includes benefits, and for anyone not familiar with USD that is a damned fine (approaching if not well into upper middle-class) wage anywhere in the country, never mind the mid-west.
That's seems pretty standard for a unionized/certified carpenter. It's a skilled trade, which means its a hard job but it pays well. This isn't crazy.
Toronto townhouse goes for $420k over asking and I've gone cross-eyed:
A Toronto townhouse on a busy street that drew multiple offers and sold for $420,000 above asking is a sign there is still plenty of heat left in the city’s red-hot market.
But even as sellers are celebrating, there are warnings that the true costs of the high prices will be borne by local businesses facing labour shortages and a generation unable to own their homes.
We just re did our deck in Trex but as part of the construction they peeled back part of the vinyl siding to get the deck fascia against the house.
Low and behold, there's no fucking Tyvek (house wrap) behind the vinyl. They did me a favor went around the house and yeah no Tyvek anywhere.
Got a referral to a siding company and they did an inspection and found no Tyvek but luckily almost no signs of moisture damage. So we want to take the opportunity to get this fixed now as the existing siding is 28 years old (installed prior to house wrap being code required).
We live in Minnesota so moisture and storms is a real concern, as well as temperature swings from -60 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
I already know we will not be doing aluminum, wood, stucco, or brick based on cost and look. That basically leaves us with vinyl or those new "Hardie Boards" which is like a composite wood pulp and cement, but are also supposed to be bulletproof.
This is our forever home and I intend to die here so I'd like to do this once and do it right.
@MegaMan001 - at my firm (architecture) we often specify HardieBoard siding and get good results from it over vinyl. It comes out looking clean and sharp. Not sure about bulletproof, but it seems to be a solid product that would last a good long while.
Toronto townhouse goes for $420k over asking and I've gone cross-eyed:
A Toronto townhouse on a busy street that drew multiple offers and sold for $420,000 above asking is a sign there is still plenty of heat left in the city’s red-hot market.
But even as sellers are celebrating, there are warnings that the true costs of the high prices will be borne by local businesses facing labour shortages and a generation unable to own their homes.
What. The. Fuck.
so a weird trend (and i don't know the details on this house) is that people are starting to underlist their house to get more hits/views knowing that people are going to upbid it. So maybe the place should have gone for 600k and they listed at 300 and it went for 720k. It's STILL insane and i just don't think sustainable but it's not "quite" as overblown...i mean it's still insane...
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No, but code is a maximum of 25 feet from the dryer itself. Subtract 2.5 feet for every 45 degree bend and 5 feet for every 90 degree.
Does it need to be rigid pipe if it's horizontal?
It's not required, bit I'd recommend rigid anywhere it's possible yeah. A short run of the flexible stuff from the dryer to make positioning easier is fine, but the main run being rigid means far fewer clogging problems.
Yeah, I just have no experience with grouting or masonry beyond putting holes in it. Cutting a hole seems straight-forward. The lintel has to be a good bit wider than the hole, though, and digging out the grout from between the remaining bricks to get the lintel in, and then grouting it into place in the narrow hole, seems easy to fuck up.
I tried a couple more HVAC companies and got shot down. Guess I'll either try some random handymen or look into doing the round duct version.
In other news: my old place got appraised at full sale price today for the buyers, so that's cool. And further evidence appraisals are full of shit right now considering how (seemingly, to me, anyway) nuts the sales price is.
The appraisal is basically a low level due diligence element - the appraiser is there to make sure that there isn't something massively overlooked to protect the bank.
At times I feel like it would be easier to conjure and evil spirit from the ether than to get a tradesperson to do some work.
And around here it's literally all of them - doesn't matter the job. Getting one on the phone is a near Herculean feat.
I replaced some shitty basement windows with glass block, and S Mortar is actually pretty easy to use, thinking back I removed a cinderblock garden wall I didn't like with a ball pein hammer and a pair of cold chisels, so it may not really be too bad if you're confident about getting the location of the hole right. You use cold chisels instead of other tools because the steel isn't hardened so much so it won't break off or shatter, just mushroom after a while.
That's pretty typical if you don't have a relationship with them or referral from family / friends. And even then it can be tough.
Most of the big trades make their money off either contracted jobs or people who are over a barrel - i.e. emergency plumbing / HVAC. Coming out to do a small or moderate job typically isn't worth their time.
One of our family friends is a plumber and said he's said he won't get out of bed for less than $1000. So even though it seems like a job that's $500 for two hours of work would be well worth their time, by the time they plan it, get there, do the job, and leave it's half a day assuming everything went well.
If you were a general contractor who they could make $10k for a week's worth of work I guarantee you they would be on the line with you. Just the breaks.
That being said when you have a million dollar sub contract they pick up anytime I call.
Common things I hear are "I spend my time on job sites, not answering calls/emails". Which, like, fine but SOMEBODY needs to do that? Then inevitably they complain about work shortages come the winter.
It's been almost impossible for us too. We finally had someone come out and look at the things we needed done, then flaked on providing the estimate. Another one who actually got back to us had just booked a job doing a complete retail location reno, so they suggested we go with Home Depot/Lowes recommended people for some of our work as it would be easier than trying to find someone on our own.
The closet on the right use to end where that mess on the far wall is. We expanded it to 40" deep to turn it into a laundry room, I had to move the door to the master bedroom over about 10" to accommodate it. The master bathroom is behind the wall on the right, which is how I'm getting water for the washer. I added 2" to the bathroom side of that wall to turn it into a 2x6 depth so I can run plumbing and the 4" dryer duct up through the ceiling and outside. It's about 119" wide which was just enough space for a 60" opening and a 48" opening with 2x4 supports on either side and a triple in the middle. It's not structural so all the wall has to hold up is itself and the bifold doors that'll go in.
Shot opposite the laundry room, this'll be an office.
Shot from inside the office. It all use to be one room, with the full width closet. The opening to the right on the near side of the stud wall where you see yellow use to be the doorway to the office, it's getting drywalled over. The opening to the right on the far side of the stud wall is the new hallway I cut out. The master bedroom was previously only connected to the house through the office, making it by code not technically a bedroom, since it didn't open to a hallway.
Also I only bought enough 3/4" underlayment to do these two walls because 3/4" underlayment is still $75 a sheet...
Now to do electrical and plumbing, and tile the bathrooms, and hopefully by then lumber will have dropped at least a little bit.
With the exception of exterior painting and furnace work, I definitely recommend having renovations done late fall or winter. I need to replace my roof, but it’s not actively leaking so I’m waiting for the fall.
I gotta ask: how much help do you have and do you have training (or does the person helping you)? I'm ok doing basic repairs, especially mechanical, minor plumbing, painting (with mishaps), and some minor repair work, but I'm always so envious of people who have learned enough to open a wall, reframe, just straight up build. It's such an awesome skill to have.
Regardless, that looks great and best of luck building it out.
Yeah I'm in the same place restoring the farm.
I'm sure 50-60 years (or my own self, six years later) is gonna be wondering what dumbass did this stupid janky shit. But recognize it worked and learn and do better.
I had an entire room where the walls were old boxes from the late 40s stapled to studs and wall papered over. Having that as the bar you need to clear is...surprisingly freeing.
Our real house I do take more seriously with the associated anxiety. But there are places I've been like 'fuck it, paneling works' and moved on with no regrets.
Do you not have to use noggings / dwangs when framing a wall? The rule of thumb I've always gone by is any wall that's higher than about 4' needs one to maintain rigidity.
Just seems odd to me seeing all those vertical runs without any horizontal between them, but it may be a UK / US difference
After having helped my brother in law with replumbing my house, I'm starting to come to the conclusion that a lot of this isn't particularly difficult, its just being confident, and obviously somewhat physically demanding. Except drywall, fuck drywall. I mean, obviously its not nothing, but also with like, framing. Its a piece of wood top and bottom, and then vertical pieces on 12"/16" centers (I'm going to pretend like the door framing isn't there, cause I have no idea what that requires (although it looks like its just 2 x 6's, two deep, making the outside of the door space)). Plumbing, other than all the things about pipe diameter, which admittedly I wouldn't have known off the top of my head like my brother, was just cold water from the street to the water heater, with a t for the bathroom/kitchen and one for the washer/dryer, then hot water coming back. Ofc, having said "oh, it wasn't that complicated", it still took us ~6 months of working weekends to get it done...
The Monster Baru Cormorant - Seth Dickinson
Steam: Korvalain
Nah, I've never seen a wall in the US with one. Thats an interesting difference.
Edit: I guess I've never really looked at the exterior/load bearing walls of a two story structure, they maybe be more common there?
The Monster Baru Cormorant - Seth Dickinson
Steam: Korvalain
https://www.amazon.com/Code-Check-9th-Illustrated-Building/dp/1641551461/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=building+code&qid=1626361151&sr=8-13
I also refer to this one frequently when doing any rewiring:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-Complete-Wiring-Updated/dp/0760353573/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=black+and+decker+electrical&qid=1626361210&sr=8-3
Also, while this may vary regionally, the local inspectors are super friendly. Remember that if you've pulled permits, you've paid to have a professional consultant check out your work and verify it is correct and safe.
No, I think those are unique to the Hollowed Earth campaign setting …
Steam: Elvenshae // PSN: Elvenshae // WotC: Elvenshae
Wilds of Aladrion: [https://forums.penny-arcade.com/discussion/comment/43159014/#Comment_43159014]Ellandryn[/url]
In the US, putting drywall or plywood sheathing up counts as horizontal bracing for code. Technically I should be putting fire blocking, a row of 2x4 spacers horizontally halfway up the wall, to be strictly within code but the entire rest of the house isn't fire blocked so I'm skipping it.
Same goes for floors, the subfloor counts as horizontal bracing on the floor joists.
It may be different in other parts of the country that are prone to hurricanes or earthquakes though, I'm not sure.
I get the purpose of fire blocking, but boy does it make running cable a chore.
Home renovation leads to the discovery of over 150 bowling balls under a family's porch
The article mentions the owners' intent to use them as decoration. Personally I think using them as ammunition for a home-made trebuchet would be much more entertaining.
Also trying to fathom the thinking that goes into using bowling balls as some kind of in-fill.
Yeah same here. I'm putting off what is by all accounts a pretty easy Quickcrete job to fix our front steps.
Just worried about screwing something up, even though i know outside of plumbing or electrical, the cost of failure is usually low.
I assume whomever it was had access to a very large number of bowling balls for some reason (owned a bowling alley? joke bid in a bowling alley's going out of business auction gone awry?) at the same time they were building their porch.
Whomever digs up the raised garden bed in the back yard at my old house is probably going to be pretty confused about there being a bunch of window screens under it. I needed something to keep bugs out, didn't have any handy cardboard, and did have a pile of torn window screens ripped up by my dog.
There was a bowling alley boom in the 1950s and subsequent bust in the early 1960s, so it wouldn't surprise me to find out that they were from a bowling alley going out of business.
Yeah sheesh. I heard this recently, wherein they speak to a woman running a Kansas City based carpentry firm that can't find enough skilled tradepersons. She pays "hourly all-in wage, we probably start about $45 dollars an hour: then. Now we're about $65." That includes benefits, and for anyone not familiar with USD that is a damned fine (approaching if not well into upper middle-class) wage anywhere in the country, never mind the mid-west.
That's seems pretty standard for a unionized/certified carpenter. It's a skilled trade, which means its a hard job but it pays well. This isn't crazy.
What. The. Fuck.
We just re did our deck in Trex but as part of the construction they peeled back part of the vinyl siding to get the deck fascia against the house.
Low and behold, there's no fucking Tyvek (house wrap) behind the vinyl. They did me a favor went around the house and yeah no Tyvek anywhere.
Got a referral to a siding company and they did an inspection and found no Tyvek but luckily almost no signs of moisture damage. So we want to take the opportunity to get this fixed now as the existing siding is 28 years old (installed prior to house wrap being code required).
We live in Minnesota so moisture and storms is a real concern, as well as temperature swings from -60 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
I already know we will not be doing aluminum, wood, stucco, or brick based on cost and look. That basically leaves us with vinyl or those new "Hardie Boards" which is like a composite wood pulp and cement, but are also supposed to be bulletproof.
This is our forever home and I intend to die here so I'd like to do this once and do it right.
so a weird trend (and i don't know the details on this house) is that people are starting to underlist their house to get more hits/views knowing that people are going to upbid it. So maybe the place should have gone for 600k and they listed at 300 and it went for 720k. It's STILL insane and i just don't think sustainable but it's not "quite" as overblown...i mean it's still insane...
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
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