Alright, another question for the home gurus. We moved into a relatively new build (~5 years old) with new-ish appliances to match. The oven/stove combo is gas, which is actually new for us since our previous apartments were all electric appliances. Whenever we turn on the oven or light the stove, though, we smell gas. It clears after a minute or two, and we never smell anything apart from right when we turn it on.
Is this normal? Is it just the gas coming through the line before it ignites? Google seems to disagree whether this is ok or not, and I'm going to feel real dumb if I bring someone out to check a normally-operating stove.
Alright, another question for the home gurus. We moved into a relatively new build (~5 years old) with new-ish appliances to match. The oven/stove combo is gas, which is actually new for us since our previous apartments were all electric appliances. Whenever we turn on the oven or light the stove, though, we smell gas. It clears after a minute or two, and we never smell anything apart from right when we turn it on.
Is this normal? Is it just the gas coming through the line before it ignites? Google seems to disagree whether this is ok or not, and I'm going to feel real dumb if I bring someone out to check a normally-operating stove.
If you have a vent hood, make sure to use it. Apparently there are some health risks associated with using natural gas stoves, but I believe they’re all pretty much erased if you’ve got proper venting (at least what I’ve gathered from having a gas stove the last two years).
It definitely got rid of the random gas smells for us, at least.
Alright, another question for the home gurus. We moved into a relatively new build (~5 years old) with new-ish appliances to match. The oven/stove combo is gas, which is actually new for us since our previous apartments were all electric appliances. Whenever we turn on the oven or light the stove, though, we smell gas. It clears after a minute or two, and we never smell anything apart from right when we turn it on.
Is this normal? Is it just the gas coming through the line before it ignites? Google seems to disagree whether this is ok or not, and I'm going to feel real dumb if I bring someone out to check a normally-operating stove.
Normal. You'll always have some small amount of gas that flows out before it ignites. It intentionally takes just a tiny, non-dangerous amount of gas present to be able to smell it. It's only a danger if you are smelling gas while the stove is off. Or if the stove doesn't light within several seconds.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Alright, another question for the home gurus. We moved into a relatively new build (~5 years old) with new-ish appliances to match. The oven/stove combo is gas, which is actually new for us since our previous apartments were all electric appliances. Whenever we turn on the oven or light the stove, though, we smell gas. It clears after a minute or two, and we never smell anything apart from right when we turn it on.
Is this normal? Is it just the gas coming through the line before it ignites? Google seems to disagree whether this is ok or not, and I'm going to feel real dumb if I bring someone out to check a normally-operating stove.
Normal. You'll always have some small amount of gas that flows out before it ignites. It intentionally takes just a tiny, non-dangerous amount of gas present to be able to smell it. It's only a danger if you are smelling gas while the stove is off. Or if the stove doesn't light within several seconds.
Yep, and just to add to this if your ignitors are dirty, old, or poor quality, it can just take longer to ignite the gas, which means more unignited gas comes out before ignition which is likely what you're smelling. A new gas stove with properly working ignitors ignites the gas so fast there shouldn't even be enough that escapes to smell it.
Thanks. We have one of those combo microwave/hood setups, which I'm pretty convinced is just a loud noisemaker with no actual ventilation properties.
Yes those microwave vents - unless you have one that ducts to outside (and even then) are basically useless for anything. If they are just sucking the air through a mesh and blowing out vents in the top / front instead of ducting they are essentially pointless.
If they duct to the outside they aren't as good as a hood, but they aren't pointless. Just noisy.
Thanks. We have one of those combo microwave/hood setups, which I'm pretty convinced is just a loud noisemaker with no actual ventilation properties.
Yes those microwave vents - unless you have one that ducts to outside (and even then) are basically useless for anything. If they are just sucking the air through a mesh and blowing out vents in the top / front instead of ducting they are essentially pointless.
If they duct to the outside they aren't as good as a hood, but they aren't pointless. Just noisy.
If you can spare the counter space the upgrade to a real vent hood is absolutely worth it, I just did it myself.
life's a game that you're bound to lose / like using a hammer to pound in screws
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
Just put the final coat of polycrylic on my first actual woodworking project. It’s essentially a box to cover half of a double vanity and convert it into a split level countertop/sink (covering one of the sinks).
This took so much longer than it needed to and I made a huge number of minor (but noticeable!) mistakes, not least choosing to start with a large project with visible joints that will be mostly white.
Really couldn’t have asked for a less forgiving starter project, but it feels good to be in the final drying period.
Next project will be small… or a full-sized workbench
Learning how to cover up your mistakes is half the battle!
The one clever move I gathered for covering up some real shoddy seams on the top surface (themselves only visible due to an earlier mistake when I rabbeted the wrong board and decided to roll with it) was adding mitered trim to the top face’s edges. They completely cover the joint seams and provide a kind of guardrail so it should be harder for things to fall off.
It’s made me realize that more tables need guardrails.
When I made my kids a double desk for pandemic school-from-home I put a moulding to catch rolling pencils around the back and both sides. If you look at historical pieces, they have all sorts of sloppy work hidden in places you can't see so well and lots of short cuts, and as you get more experience you'll learn to plan your designs to hide anything that would otherwise be tricky to pull off perfectly. Mortise & Tenon magazine does nice photoshoots of this sort of thing. It really helps put in perspective what sort of quality of work to hold yourself to as a single craftsman vs stuff a factory line is using machines to piece out. Making dovetails in solid wood is awesome but if you need to get something done fast, plywood with kreg screws is still stronger than a chipboard and doweled ikea piece. It's like if you're finishing a room and learn that baseboard helps hide the gap made when you flush the wall's drywall to the ceiling, all the 'normal' ways to get things done are to avoid precision but leave things looking nice.
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AbsoluteZeroThe new film by Quentin KoopantinoRegistered Userregular
So I had a guy come out to give me an estimate for replacing trim around a garage door (2 car width), a regular people door, scrape and paint fascia and replace a damaged fascia board. Came out to roughly $1000. Trying to figure out if that's reasonable? Google is not much help, all the pricing I can find seem to be for regular doors and not big ass garage doors.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
That's materials and labor?
Sounds pretty good, maybe a little high depending on the area. Could be labor intensive if a lot of scraping is needed.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
It's tough to say without pictures. If it's 2 people for 10 hours, that's about right. Scraping is very time consuming, especially with cleanup. If it's 1 person for 4 hours. That's a bit high.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
edited October 2021
Roofers are making a hell of a racket, my dog is upset by it. Luckily they brought 15 dudes, so it's going to be only a day with maybe some work tomorrow.
Asked a contractor what it would cost to turn some windows into french doors. 10k not including the cost of the doors. I didn't think I was asking for a lot here...
Asked a contractor what it would cost to turn some windows into french doors. 10k not including the cost of the doors. I didn't think I was asking for a lot here...
If that's just for one that sounds like a "I don't want this job" quote
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Asked a contractor what it would cost to turn some windows into french doors. 10k not including the cost of the doors. I didn't think I was asking for a lot here...
If that's just for one that sounds like a "I don't want this job" quote
It’s a pain in the ass more than anything. If it’s exterior they’ll need to get it permitted and an engineer to do drawing.
And the doors are super expensive. You might be better off getting a quote from a windows and doors company.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
Also when your home inspector says, “your roof has maybe a year, 2 tops left on it.”
Asked a contractor what it would cost to turn some windows into french doors. 10k not including the cost of the doors. I didn't think I was asking for a lot here...
If that's just for one that sounds like a "I don't want this job" quote
It’s a pain in the ass more than anything. If it’s exterior they’ll need to get it permitted and an engineer to do drawing.
And the doors are super expensive. You might be better off getting a quote from a windows and doors company.
Yeah, this contractor is already doing some other work for me, but I'll probably do exactly that and get more quotes later after he finishes...
Also when your home inspector says, “your roof has maybe a year, 2 tops left on it.”
Believe them.
How old was the roof and what was causing the degradation? Water?
Roof was installed 2003, so 17 years at time of inspection.
Water is correct. Water is the enemy of homes. But when they put the roofs on all the homes in the development, they didn’t use proper underlayment. So it was essentially singles on paper on plywood.
Also when your home inspector says, “your roof has maybe a year, 2 tops left on it.”
Believe them.
How old was the roof and what was causing the degradation? Water?
Roof was installed 2003, so 17 years at time of inspection.
Water is correct. Water is the enemy of homes. But when they put the roofs on all the homes in the development, they didn’t use proper underlayment. So it was essentially singles on paper on plywood.
Wait, not even tar paper (technically asphalt-saturated felt) but just paper?
According to my roof inspection from when I bought my house, they stopped saturating tar paper at some point due to the runoff from it poisoning rainwater, so what you'd end up with (and what I have) is unsaturated tar paper instead (aka just basically paper). In a related question, since said inspection also said the same "you should get this replaced within a few years" phrase, anyone know what full roof replacements in the PNW are going for nowadays?
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ShadowfireVermont, in the middle of nowhereRegistered Userregular
I see a lot of metal roofs here and I'm tempted to go that route since we're going to have to replace a couple small roofs here (over the front porch and back kitchen).
According to my roof inspection from when I bought my house, they stopped saturating tar paper at some point due to the runoff from it poisoning rainwater, so what you'd end up with (and what I have) is unsaturated tar paper instead (aka just basically paper). In a related question, since said inspection also said the same "you should get this replaced within a few years" phrase, anyone know what full roof replacements in the PNW are going for nowadays?
That's seems like it'd almost be worse than not even putting down an underlayment
Though looking into it I guess now they use a synthetic?
I see a lot of metal roofs here and I'm tempted to go that route since we're going to have to replace a couple small roofs here (over the front porch and back kitchen).
A lot of houses in my neighborhood have metal roofs for little spots like that just because it looks cool. I believe they're fairly practical otherwise anyway, but whether painted steel or copper they look nice on porches in my opinion.
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webguy20I spend too much time on the InternetRegistered Userregular
We have a full on metal roof and love it. It's done a great job and barely looks worn at 20 years.
physi_marcPositron TrackerIn a nutshellRegistered Userregular
My wife and I are closing on a house tomorrow and the anxiety is in overdrive. We used to own a house back in Canada and we’ve had a lot of issues with it, even had to sell at a large loss. But here we are again. Wish us good fortunes…
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
I see a lot of metal roofs here and I'm tempted to go that route since we're going to have to replace a couple small roofs here (over the front porch and back kitchen).
If my HOA allowed it I would have gone with a metal roof.
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zepherinRussian warship, go fuck yourselfRegistered Userregular
According to my roof inspection from when I bought my house, they stopped saturating tar paper at some point due to the runoff from it poisoning rainwater, so what you'd end up with (and what I have) is unsaturated tar paper instead (aka just basically paper). In a related question, since said inspection also said the same "you should get this replaced within a few years" phrase, anyone know what full roof replacements in the PNW are going for nowadays?
That's seems like it'd almost be worse than not even putting down an underlayment
Though looking into it I guess now they use a synthetic?
Here's what they used on my roof. Which is synthetic
I see a lot of metal roofs here and I'm tempted to go that route since we're going to have to replace a couple small roofs here (over the front porch and back kitchen).
Added benefit, rain on a metal roof sounds amazing.
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MichaelLCIn what furnace was thy brain?ChicagoRegistered Userregular
I see a lot of metal roofs here and I'm tempted to go that route since we're going to have to replace a couple small roofs here (over the front porch and back kitchen).
Added benefit, rain on a metal roof sounds amazing.
The giant oak tree right in front of our house seems like it’s probably rotting - there’s been a smell that came and went, but I couldn’t identify for months now. Finally cleared out the bushes and realized the shady side of the tree is just covered with mushrooms, and the base itself is fairly soft. The mushroom smell is rank.
I’ve been putting off getting it pruned, but this finally got me to setup an appointment with a local arborist. Be nice if there’s a way to save it - it’s one of the largest trees on the property, and while the branch growth has been annoying, it’s also providing a lot of shade and cover for the house.
…
That said, given the woodworking hobby, I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll be worth salvaging for my own use if the whole thing does have to come down.
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Red Raevynbecause I only take Bubble BathsRegistered Userregular
In a related question, since said inspection also said the same "you should get this replaced within a few years" phrase, anyone know what full roof replacements in the PNW are going for nowadays?
It varies too much depending on the size of your house and complexity of the roof to give a broad number. But for shingles comparison, the 3? quotes we got for shingles (to try and satisfy the infuriating insurance company, don't get me started) were around $13-15,000, and our metal roof cost something like $22,000. We're very glad we did it - it's attractive, should last a long time, sounds amazing in the rain, and if it does eventually fail it won't be a bunch of petroleum product going into a landfill.
Our neighbor is prepping their house to sell. They've been away during Covid, so we've had a couple years of no neighbors on either side, and it's been glorious.
I'm both excited to see how well/fast they sell and who moves in and also terrified that it'll be a pack of assholes.
I also feel kinda bad thinking like that, but man, houses infect you with NIMBY if you're not careful.
Our neighbor is prepping their house to sell. They've been away during Covid, so we've had a couple years of no neighbors on either side, and it's been glorious.
I'm both excited to see how well/fast they sell and who moves in and also terrified that it'll be a pack of assholes.
I also feel kinda bad thinking like that, but man, houses infect you with NIMBY if you're not careful.
Doesn't matter if you rent or own, we're all terrified of getting a psycho neighbor.
The giant oak tree right in front of our house seems like it’s probably rotting - there’s been a smell that came and went, but I couldn’t identify for months now. Finally cleared out the bushes and realized the shady side of the tree is just covered with mushrooms, and the base itself is fairly soft. The mushroom smell is rank.
I’ve been putting off getting it pruned, but this finally got me to setup an appointment with a local arborist. Be nice if there’s a way to save it - it’s one of the largest trees on the property, and while the branch growth has been annoying, it’s also providing a lot of shade and cover for the house.
…
That said, given the woodworking hobby, I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll be worth salvaging for my own use if the whole thing does have to come down.
If it is rotted you might not be able to do flat work with it but since the branches should be sound enough you will have a good excuse to get a lathe. Spalted wood chunks from the trunk will look cool turned if you stabilize it first.
In a related question, since said inspection also said the same "you should get this replaced within a few years" phrase, anyone know what full roof replacements in the PNW are going for nowadays?
It varies too much depending on the size of your house and complexity of the roof to give a broad number. But for shingles comparison, the 3? quotes we got for shingles (to try and satisfy the infuriating insurance company, don't get me started) were around $13-15,000, and our metal roof cost something like $22,000. We're very glad we did it - it's attractive, should last a long time, sounds amazing in the rain, and if it does eventually fail it won't be a bunch of petroleum product going into a landfill.
How big's your roof and how steep?
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Grudgeblessed is the mind too small for doubtRegistered Userregular
The giant oak tree right in front of our house seems like it’s probably rotting - there’s been a smell that came and went, but I couldn’t identify for months now. Finally cleared out the bushes and realized the shady side of the tree is just covered with mushrooms, and the base itself is fairly soft. The mushroom smell is rank.
I’ve been putting off getting it pruned, but this finally got me to setup an appointment with a local arborist. Be nice if there’s a way to save it - it’s one of the largest trees on the property, and while the branch growth has been annoying, it’s also providing a lot of shade and cover for the house.
…
That said, given the woodworking hobby, I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll be worth salvaging for my own use if the whole thing does have to come down.
Oaks can live on for hundreds of years after they've started rotting - old oaks are often completely hollow but still otherwise healthy. Maybe keeping the bushes away will dry it out enough for the mushrooms to go away? Or maybe they can be killed without harming the tree? It would be a shame to take down a nice old tree unless it threatens to come falling down by itself.
The giant oak tree right in front of our house seems like it’s probably rotting - there’s been a smell that came and went, but I couldn’t identify for months now. Finally cleared out the bushes and realized the shady side of the tree is just covered with mushrooms, and the base itself is fairly soft. The mushroom smell is rank.
I’ve been putting off getting it pruned, but this finally got me to setup an appointment with a local arborist. Be nice if there’s a way to save it - it’s one of the largest trees on the property, and while the branch growth has been annoying, it’s also providing a lot of shade and cover for the house.
…
That said, given the woodworking hobby, I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll be worth salvaging for my own use if the whole thing does have to come down.
Oaks can live on for hundreds of years after they've started rotting - old oaks are often completely hollow but still otherwise healthy. Maybe keeping the bushes away will dry it out enough for the mushrooms to go away? Or maybe they can be killed without harming the tree? It would be a shame to take down a nice old tree unless it threatens to come falling down by itself.
I’ll be finding out on Tuesday, but my hopes are pretty firmly in check for now. I’ve been kind of uncomfortable with it’s proximity to the house since we moved in (it’s maybe 6 feet from the foundation). If there’s a risk of the tree (or any of the several larger branches) falling, it’s likely to do catastrophic damage given it’s location and size.
Frankly, after digging around the base a bit and seeing just how soft the outer layer of the trunk has gotten (and reading that this amount of mushrooms is likely an indicator that the decay is well-established), I’m going to need a lot of reassurance to not push to get rid of it. There’s probably multiple tons resting on an increasingly weak support structure.
Posts
Is this normal? Is it just the gas coming through the line before it ignites? Google seems to disagree whether this is ok or not, and I'm going to feel real dumb if I bring someone out to check a normally-operating stove.
If you have a vent hood, make sure to use it. Apparently there are some health risks associated with using natural gas stoves, but I believe they’re all pretty much erased if you’ve got proper venting (at least what I’ve gathered from having a gas stove the last two years).
It definitely got rid of the random gas smells for us, at least.
Normal. You'll always have some small amount of gas that flows out before it ignites. It intentionally takes just a tiny, non-dangerous amount of gas present to be able to smell it. It's only a danger if you are smelling gas while the stove is off. Or if the stove doesn't light within several seconds.
Yep, and just to add to this if your ignitors are dirty, old, or poor quality, it can just take longer to ignite the gas, which means more unignited gas comes out before ignition which is likely what you're smelling. A new gas stove with properly working ignitors ignites the gas so fast there shouldn't even be enough that escapes to smell it.
Yes those microwave vents - unless you have one that ducts to outside (and even then) are basically useless for anything. If they are just sucking the air through a mesh and blowing out vents in the top / front instead of ducting they are essentially pointless.
If they duct to the outside they aren't as good as a hood, but they aren't pointless. Just noisy.
If you can spare the counter space the upgrade to a real vent hood is absolutely worth it, I just did it myself.
fuck up once and you break your thumb / if you're happy at all then you're god damn dumb
that's right we're on a fucked up cruise / God is dead but at least we have booze
bad things happen, no one knows why / the sun burns out and everyone dies
When I made my kids a double desk for pandemic school-from-home I put a moulding to catch rolling pencils around the back and both sides. If you look at historical pieces, they have all sorts of sloppy work hidden in places you can't see so well and lots of short cuts, and as you get more experience you'll learn to plan your designs to hide anything that would otherwise be tricky to pull off perfectly. Mortise & Tenon magazine does nice photoshoots of this sort of thing. It really helps put in perspective what sort of quality of work to hold yourself to as a single craftsman vs stuff a factory line is using machines to piece out. Making dovetails in solid wood is awesome but if you need to get something done fast, plywood with kreg screws is still stronger than a chipboard and doweled ikea piece. It's like if you're finishing a room and learn that baseboard helps hide the gap made when you flush the wall's drywall to the ceiling, all the 'normal' ways to get things done are to avoid precision but leave things looking nice.
Sounds pretty good, maybe a little high depending on the area. Could be labor intensive if a lot of scraping is needed.
Looks like I was close to a huge problem.
If that's just for one that sounds like a "I don't want this job" quote
And the doors are super expensive. You might be better off getting a quote from a windows and doors company.
Believe them.
Yeah, this contractor is already doing some other work for me, but I'll probably do exactly that and get more quotes later after he finishes...
How old was the roof and what was causing the degradation? Water?
Selling Board Games for Medical Bills
Water is correct. Water is the enemy of homes. But when they put the roofs on all the homes in the development, they didn’t use proper underlayment. So it was essentially singles on paper on plywood.
Wait, not even tar paper (technically asphalt-saturated felt) but just paper?
I'm amazed it lasted 17 years.
That's seems like it'd almost be worse than not even putting down an underlayment
Though looking into it I guess now they use a synthetic?
A lot of houses in my neighborhood have metal roofs for little spots like that just because it looks cool. I believe they're fairly practical otherwise anyway, but whether painted steel or copper they look nice on porches in my opinion.
Origin ID: Discgolfer27
Untappd ID: Discgolfer1981
Nintendo Network ID: PhysiMarc
If my HOA allowed it I would have gone with a metal roof.
https://www.gaf.com/en-us/products/felt-buster
Added benefit, rain on a metal roof sounds amazing.
Except when it's raining cats.
I’ve been putting off getting it pruned, but this finally got me to setup an appointment with a local arborist. Be nice if there’s a way to save it - it’s one of the largest trees on the property, and while the branch growth has been annoying, it’s also providing a lot of shade and cover for the house.
…
That said, given the woodworking hobby, I’m wondering if there’s anything that’ll be worth salvaging for my own use if the whole thing does have to come down.
I'm both excited to see how well/fast they sell and who moves in and also terrified that it'll be a pack of assholes.
I also feel kinda bad thinking like that, but man, houses infect you with NIMBY if you're not careful.
Doesn't matter if you rent or own, we're all terrified of getting a psycho neighbor.
If it is rotted you might not be able to do flat work with it but since the branches should be sound enough you will have a good excuse to get a lathe. Spalted wood chunks from the trunk will look cool turned if you stabilize it first.
How big's your roof and how steep?
Oaks can live on for hundreds of years after they've started rotting - old oaks are often completely hollow but still otherwise healthy. Maybe keeping the bushes away will dry it out enough for the mushrooms to go away? Or maybe they can be killed without harming the tree? It would be a shame to take down a nice old tree unless it threatens to come falling down by itself.
I’ll be finding out on Tuesday, but my hopes are pretty firmly in check for now. I’ve been kind of uncomfortable with it’s proximity to the house since we moved in (it’s maybe 6 feet from the foundation). If there’s a risk of the tree (or any of the several larger branches) falling, it’s likely to do catastrophic damage given it’s location and size.
Frankly, after digging around the base a bit and seeing just how soft the outer layer of the trunk has gotten (and reading that this amount of mushrooms is likely an indicator that the decay is well-established), I’m going to need a lot of reassurance to not push to get rid of it. There’s probably multiple tons resting on an increasingly weak support structure.