Japanese P Bandai is releasing this Maneuver Striker pack for the upcoming MG Eclipse Gundam kit
Honestly this might be the first time I’ve been excited by a CE unit design since the Astray. It’s just fucking wild as hell and I can’t shake the impression it’s riffing on the Xi and maybe a bit of the F91 in its design ethos
Japanese P Bandai is releasing this Maneuver Striker pack for the upcoming MG Eclipse Gundam kit
Honestly this might be the first time I’ve been excited by a CE unit design since the Astray. It’s just fucking wild as hell and I can’t shake the impression it’s riffing on the Xi and maybe a bit of the F91 in its design ethos
*sigh* how much does it cost...
3300 Yen for the striker pack; also compatible with the Strike MG or any other SEED kits that use that connector?
If memory serves the main kit is a standard release; still not quite sure why it’s released an MG first before even an HG is announced
Lanz on
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
edited July 2021
Ok that's not to bad.
I've already got the Eclipse preordered so in for a penny and all that.
edit: man that rear shot has huge Xenogears energy.
turtleant on
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LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
Finally finished one arm, might have gotten both but these wires. Even with the dalong guide, the official instructions and a video I couldn’t get those shoulder wires to route in any way that actually ever stays in place as soon as you extend the arm out.
Either way, with one arm done you know what I had to do.
LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
Are you talking about the wires you jam into the back of the chest? I don’t have the back plates on yet but the dalong method of routing those wires around and into the shoulder joint seems to work well. The wires I’m having a problem with are the ones in the arm/shoulder pad connection.
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
Honestly, the pictures on Amazon made me think it would be a plastic pot for my airbrush, but in retrospect I guess it makes sense that it would be glass.
On the plus side, I bet all the hardware and plastic bits are fine, and the glass should be replaceable. Amazon can't replace the item so they are issuing a refund. And at the end of the day it was like $11 anyways.
LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
In today's build report, disaster.
I completed the other arm without much fuss considering I had just done all of that. I started on the head excited to have the body complete except for the backpack. So for touch ups on the gold bits I had been using a gold gundam paint marker, at one point I had the fins closed and was trying to touch up a part near the base and I guess the mix was off because some of it leaked down in between and stripped the gold coating off so I had to touch that up too. Anyways maybe people see how i've fucked up already but I continued on to the head assembly. I was real worried about the head LED since it's just a bare circuit board and the instructions say be careful not to damage it. It's fairly uneventful so I get to the point where I'm putting the V fin in the head and one of the grey bits that attaches it and facilitates rotation snaps.
Turns out you should not get paint markers on ABS (I still had the grey pieces attached and the one that snapped did get fairly coated). Also while typing this I looked and the V-fins are ABS as well. Greeeeaaaaat, since I happened to mess up the base I'm real worried about snapping them off at some point now.
I am completely baffled why gunpla markers are made using thinners that will damage ABS
Like I figured their point was to be the most beginner friendly way of painting kits, which this seems to kind of undermine
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AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
edited July 2021
Lasbrook, my friend..
I spent so much of page 35 talking about the perils of using different kinds of paints on this gunpla, and also in the Nextlander chat! I tried to warn youuuuuu!!!! *Cries*
Honestly? Given how important that piece is, reach out to Bluefin and see if they can replace it. And if not, ask around if anyone has replacement parts or something in the gunpla building community.
You got this!
Edit: The markers have very clear markers saying not to use on ABS.... In Japanese.
Edit2: I could also try to send you the ABS plastic cement I'm theoretically supposed to be getting in soon, maybe that would fix it...
IanatorGaze upon my works, ye mightyand facepalm.Registered Userregular
This week my local store got in a couple Penelope kits. They may need to clear off some more shelves if my friend wants to display his after he builds it.
Meanwhile, a little robot birdie showed up on my doorstep today. And by doorstep I mean I caught the UPS truck right as I was leaving for the bus.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg) Backlog Challenge List
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LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
Lasbrook, my friend..
I spent so much of page 35 talking about the perils of using different kinds of paints on this gunpla, and also in the Nextlander chat! I tried to warn youuuuuu!!!! *Cries*
Honestly? Given how important that piece is, reach out to Bluefin and see if they can replace it. And if not, ask around if anyone has replacement parts or something in the gunpla building community.
You got this!
Edit: The markers have very clear markers saying not to use on ABS.... In Japanese.
Edit2: I could also try to send you the ABS plastic cement I'm theoretically supposed to be getting in soon, maybe that would fix it...
I’ll be honest, I’ve never really paid attention to what types of material gunpla are. To make it weirder not all the gold sprues are ABS! Granted that wouldn’t have helped with the piece that broke. Really wish they had included a spare set.
I just had to break one of the showiest parts of the kit too.
Lasbrook, my friend..
I spent so much of page 35 talking about the perils of using different kinds of paints on this gunpla, and also in the Nextlander chat! I tried to warn youuuuuu!!!! *Cries*
Honestly? Given how important that piece is, reach out to Bluefin and see if they can replace it. And if not, ask around if anyone has replacement parts or something in the gunpla building community.
You got this!
Edit: The markers have very clear markers saying not to use on ABS.... In Japanese.
Edit2: I could also try to send you the ABS plastic cement I'm theoretically supposed to be getting in soon, maybe that would fix it...
I’ll be honest, I’ve never really paid attention to what types of material gunpla are. To make it weirder not all the gold sprues are ABS! Granted that wouldn’t have helped with the piece that broke. Really wish they had included a spare set.
I just had to break one of the showiest parts of the kit too.
Come hell or high water, I will do what I can to get ya hooked up. Unless you don't want me too.
Yeah checking, ABS runners will have ABS in a kind of punch out style of font.
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LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
So Lanz hit me up and sent me this site they found that sells replacement parts/runners. They don’t have any PG Banshee parts listed(I’ll probably try and contact them tomorrow to see if maybe they have anything not listed) but thankfully the Unicorn is like 80% the same kit. Down to the fact that the sheet name and numbers match up for the parts I need. Hell, they probably just sent me this one.
@Lanz the good news is that the V-fin is going to be fine. The main point of failure due to the thinner is on stressed parts. The reason for this is that the thinner doesn't have much penetration into ABS plastic, so really only the surface is made brittle. But on a stressed part, the surface is under tension, so you get micro-cracks. The thinner can then get into the cracks and make the root brittle, which allows it to crack more. This cycle of flow and cracking is what leads the parts to fail.
For your V-fin, the thinner has already evaporated. So while the surface may be brittle and develop non-visible micro cracks, they won't propogate through the part.
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LasbrookIt takes a lot to make a stewWhen it comes to me and youRegistered Userregular
I assume that was for me, thanks for the info.I’m definitely less depressed about it now that I have replacements for the grey pieces that let it swivel. I wasn’t worried about the fin breaking immediately but rather at some point down the line. There would be a non-zero amount of stress on it though. The magnets that hold the fin closed are pretty decent and they’re closer to the tip whereas I damaged it closer to the base. I feel like I could see that causing problems if I’m not careful. But I guess with the way the forces are going it would be more of a problem if I had painted the outside?
I dunno, I’m no physics major.
Either way, I would still like to get a replacement V-fin and either live with the nub marks or use actual paint I guess? But it’s not an immediate concern.
Fake edit: I just got an email from mecha parts guy that they do have a PG Banshee inbound but 2 people already have first dibs and one might be after the A runner as well. @Athenor there’s a good chance they’ll have the part you were going to fix too but they say since it’s their first listing of this kit they’re only going to sell full runners, not individual pieces.
AthenorBattle Hardened OptimistThe Skies of HiigaraRegistered Userregular
I was just thinking the same thing. I'd be fine buying the full runner, but given that it's used for a ton of the Banshee's inner frame, I would be surprised. I'll investigate though!
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*sigh* how much does it cost...
3300 Yen for the striker pack; also compatible with the Strike MG or any other SEED kits that use that connector?
If memory serves the main kit is a standard release; still not quite sure why it’s released an MG first before even an HG is announced
I thought I was getting out of MGs...
I've already got the Eclipse preordered so in for a penny and all that.
edit: man that rear shot has huge Xenogears energy.
Either way, with one arm done you know what I had to do.
Steam
Steam
new gelgoog just dropped
i look forward to getting a pbandai version in ten years
Or at least reprint all the aquatic Zeon MG kits.
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
MG Dandelion would be my dream unit. It's basically a prototype Baund Doc built around a prototype Marasai.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
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*looks up the Dandelion*
Wow I've heard the expression "chicken walker" before but this is ridiculous
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
I'd like it more if it had a smaller gun and bigger shield (closer to traditional Gelgoog models), but the MS itself does look pretty cool.
Some assembly required, I guess.
On the plus side, I bet all the hardware and plastic bits are fine, and the glass should be replaceable. Amazon can't replace the item so they are issuing a refund. And at the end of the day it was like $11 anyways.
I completed the other arm without much fuss considering I had just done all of that. I started on the head excited to have the body complete except for the backpack. So for touch ups on the gold bits I had been using a gold gundam paint marker, at one point I had the fins closed and was trying to touch up a part near the base and I guess the mix was off because some of it leaked down in between and stripped the gold coating off so I had to touch that up too. Anyways maybe people see how i've fucked up already but I continued on to the head assembly. I was real worried about the head LED since it's just a bare circuit board and the instructions say be careful not to damage it. It's fairly uneventful so I get to the point where I'm putting the V fin in the head and one of the grey bits that attaches it and facilitates rotation snaps.
Turns out you should not get paint markers on ABS (I still had the grey pieces attached and the one that snapped did get fairly coated). Also while typing this I looked and the V-fins are ABS as well. Greeeeaaaaat, since I happened to mess up the base I'm real worried about snapping them off at some point now.
But hey, the magnet mechanic is cool!
Steam
Like I figured their point was to be the most beginner friendly way of painting kits, which this seems to kind of undermine
I spent so much of page 35 talking about the perils of using different kinds of paints on this gunpla, and also in the Nextlander chat! I tried to warn youuuuuu!!!! *Cries*
Honestly? Given how important that piece is, reach out to Bluefin and see if they can replace it. And if not, ask around if anyone has replacement parts or something in the gunpla building community.
You got this!
Edit: The markers have very clear markers saying not to use on ABS.... In Japanese.
Edit2: I could also try to send you the ABS plastic cement I'm theoretically supposed to be getting in soon, maybe that would fix it...
Meanwhile, a little robot birdie showed up on my doorstep today. And by doorstep I mean I caught the UPS truck right as I was leaving for the bus.
Twitch | Blizzard: Ianator#1479 | 3DS: Ianator - 1779 2336 5317 | FFXIV: Iana Ateliere (NA Sarg)
Backlog Challenge List
I’ll be honest, I’ve never really paid attention to what types of material gunpla are. To make it weirder not all the gold sprues are ABS! Granted that wouldn’t have helped with the piece that broke. Really wish they had included a spare set.
I just had to break one of the showiest parts of the kit too.
Steam
Come hell or high water, I will do what I can to get ya hooked up.
more recent kits are also pretty good about having the runner types labeled in the manual, too
https://mechapartsguy.com/pg-unicorn-runner-n-single-piece/
I can’t find any reviews outside of their Facebook page but it’s cheap enough and I paid through PayPal so I figure the risk is minimal.
Steam
Yeah, that makes sense. The fin/crest is unique, but all the other parts are shared. So as long as the crest isn't damaged, you should be fine.
For your V-fin, the thinner has already evaporated. So while the surface may be brittle and develop non-visible micro cracks, they won't propogate through the part.
I dunno, I’m no physics major.
Either way, I would still like to get a replacement V-fin and either live with the nub marks or use actual paint I guess? But it’s not an immediate concern.
Fake edit: I just got an email from mecha parts guy that they do have a PG Banshee inbound but 2 people already have first dibs and one might be after the A runner as well. @Athenor there’s a good chance they’ll have the part you were going to fix too but they say since it’s their first listing of this kit they’re only going to sell full runners, not individual pieces.
Steam
The Monster Baru Cormorant - Seth Dickinson
Steam: Korvalain
dalong.net has images of runners, instructions, stickers, decals
and images of snapped-together kits with some panel lining. It's like the opposite of the official cool painted promo images