Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
edited June 2022
I'm mixing up the colors to use on my MG Hazel Custom, using the exact ratios and paints listed in the manual and... kinda feel like either the color guide is way off, or my paints are?
Those are meant to be the grey for the frame and the "dark blue" (I'd call it black) for the chest and shield, but like...
Nowhere close, right? The frame is more of a purple, the armor closer to black. Any ideas? :<
Paint it in your own colors and call it the Custom MG Hazel Custom.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I might have a conspiracy theory solution here. So the official ratios are...
Frame:
- 80% Grey
- 10% Black
- 10% Purple
Dark Blue:
- 50% Cobalt Blue
- 30% Bright Blue
- 20% Black
- Small Dose Red, White
And I'm no color theory artiste, and am too sleepy to go test it at the moment, but... anyone else think they should be reversed, top to bottom? I bet 80% purple would be a lot closer to the frame color shown in the painted sample pic.
worth a shot, but do try testing what it looks like dry
also I think 80% purple would look overwhelmingly purple, the ratios for that one look about right to me
were you using mr. hobby paints?
I think he's probably right. Keep in mind that black is extremely desaturating. I would take the colors and just do some tests until you find a mix you think is close enough. I agree doing test paints and seeing how it dries.
Jumping back a page and been using these glass files from Dr Mode and it's been fantastic.
I just got a USAGS single-bladed nipper as well and between the two, my entire process has reduced to snip, glass file, balancer sand, balancer polish. Still getting some stress marking but I think that's more my issue from how I snipped it out.
Worked a little bit on my Heavyarms after getting the USAGS nippers. Forgot to take a picture of the torso before I put it all away.
Pictures show how smooth it gets.
Pre-filing, just snipped close
Nail file
Post-filing, can see the stress mark
Tilted in the light, can see the smoothness and shine
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
I think he's probably right. Keep in mind that black is extremely desaturating. I would take the colors and just do some tests until you find a mix you think is close enough. I agree doing test paints and seeing how it dries.
Alright! I tested. Interestingly, shaking up the frame mix this morning had it turn much darker, surprised me as I had thoroughly whisked the heck out of it already. Guess it just marinated together overnight...
Frame:
Black armor:
Grey primer on top spoon, black on bottom spoon.
Mm, I'm somewhat OK with these! They do indeed look better than they did in the jar, but I still think they're kinda off from the painted sample photos. Think I'm gonna mix up my own to try and match.
The top spoon looks really good. As I mentioned, black is extremely strong as something you add to paint. I would cut the amount of black used in half, if not in quarter. There's no way that desaturated purple has a ton of black in it.
I haven't seen the Transformers: Bumblebee movie, but I really like some of the designs from there, most notably Optimus Prime's. There's an officially-licensed premium-quality model kit coming out from YOLOPARK (I don't know anything about this company, they seem to style their name in all caps so I'll do the same) any minute now. Here's the promo video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ic_UUYnz4_w
Well, looks like some Chinese reviewers received their copies a few days ago, and now reviews are popping up on YouTube. Just came across this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=krSBbdr7020
I don't speak any Chinese language, and YouTube's auto-translation captions are not ideal, but I can sorta get the general idea of what's being said.
It looks pretty dang rad, man. As big as a PG Gundam, and this reviewer says that it's more complicated to build than one. There's a very complicated, sophisticated inner skeleton, and my impression is that at least some of the outer plates are painted. It's pretty expensive - USAGundamStore has it for $200; ShowZStore (a China-based retailer I frequently buy 3rd party Transformers from) has it for $150 - but looks really pretty, and interesting. I'm very, very tempted.
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turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
P Bandai has just released a line of Slegger Law merch.
so i'm a person who generally thinks there should be less worrying about continuity in stuff
but i am kind of weirdly fascinated by where they're putting cucuruz doan's island. like if sleggar's there it's gotta be post-jaburo and...right before they go back to space? interested to see why the re-arrangement
so i'm a person who generally thinks there should be less worrying about continuity in stuff
but i am kind of weirdly fascinated by where they're putting cucuruz doan's island. like if sleggar's there it's gotta be post-jaburo and...right before they go back to space? interested to see why the re-arrangement
oh is that why those are there? when did they start doing that with V-fins?
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miscellaneousinsanitygrass grows, birds fly, sun shines,and brother, i hurt peopleRegistered Userregular
safety flags have been around since the start of the HGUC line, maybe earlier
you can sand down your vfins even sharper after clipping them if you'd like, but i do agree that depending on the design, some look good left on (the one on the pale rider's antenna comes to mind)
Yeah, it’s a safety thing on the HG kits because they’re an all ages demographic. You see Bandai do similar things for, say, the Antennae on any Riders in their So-Do action figure line where they’re like, solid horns of plastic instead of pointy antennae
MG, RG and PG don’t feature them, I presume because Bandai assumes those are mainly going to be built by older modelers.
I trim them off for a more show accurate look and I noticed there is like an almost imperceptible notch between the fin and the flag that once i noticed it broke the image of it being part of the design rather than a safety bit
Also reminds me, the ones for the Turn A are so bad
Lanz on
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turtleantGunpla Dadis the best.Registered Userregular
Just be careful if you do trim them. I've got more than one kit with a shorter vfin than they aught to have cause of a slip.
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Dark Raven XLaugh hard, run fast,be kindRegistered Userregular
Man. I am just... garbage at painting. :I
I try building up in light coats I get sandy, grainy finish. I try doing heavy, wet coats and I get totally uneven finish.
Time to reset, gonna paint like a hundred spoons until I'm good at this.
Light coats - Some of your paint is drying before it reaches the part, which gives that dusted grainy finish. You can either try to spray from closer or add something like Slo-Dri to your paint.
Anyone know if the LR41 batteries the PGU Gramps requires might go by a different name in the US? They look like the small button batteries that hearing aids and similar very small devices might use, but I can't find anything locally with an LR naming convention. I know I can grab some online, I just would prefer to not have a truck burn some diesel just to bring me something that weighs a few grams.
I suppose I'll absolutely have to order the BR435 battery for the beam saber. Never seen a battery with that form factor before.
Behold! A scale plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits! The best part? It has a to-scale copy within itself... of the mold for the plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits.
Depending on the manufacturer, batteries of the same size and capability of LR41, are referred to in a few different variations. Direct replacements for LR41 would be 192, 92A,LR736, and AG3. These batteries are exact equivalents for the LR41 battery, the only difference being the name.
There are also some batteries that are the same size and dimensions as the LR41 battery, but are not exact equivalents or direct replacements as they are constructed of different chemistries offering different performances for varying applications. Examples of these could be the 384, SR41, and 392 silver oxide batteries. Although these batteries are of the exact same dimensions as an LR41 battery, the silver oxide chemistry offers a very low drain performance allowing the battery to work over extended periods of time in low use applications such as in a watch.These batteries may not work in all applications that require a LR41 battery.
For the best results, always consult the owner’s manual of your device to determine the exact battery that is required.
So it looks like there's a couple of different names you want to look out for.
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cj iwakuraThe Rhythm RegentBears The Name FreedomRegistered Userregular
Behold! A scale plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits! The best part? It has a to-scale copy within itself... of the mold for the plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits.
We can still go deeper, have it be able to make actual kits that you can then build yourself.
Posts
Those are meant to be the grey for the frame and the "dark blue" (I'd call it black) for the chest and shield, but like...
Nowhere close, right? The frame is more of a purple, the armor closer to black. Any ideas? :<
Frame:
- 80% Grey
- 10% Black
- 10% Purple
Dark Blue:
- 50% Cobalt Blue
- 30% Bright Blue
- 20% Black
- Small Dose Red, White
And I'm no color theory artiste, and am too sleepy to go test it at the moment, but... anyone else think they should be reversed, top to bottom? I bet 80% purple would be a lot closer to the frame color shown in the painted sample pic.
also I think 80% purple would look overwhelmingly purple, the ratios for that one look about right to me
were you using mr. hobby paints?
Inner frame done. Waiting on an Ex Yellow Gold Gundam Marker to get delivered since the Phenex is a different shad then the standard gold markers.
Mr Color lacquers, yeah. I believe they're meant to be exactly equivalent with the Mr Hobby Aqueous line.
I just got a USAGS single-bladed nipper as well and between the two, my entire process has reduced to snip, glass file, balancer sand, balancer polish. Still getting some stress marking but I think that's more my issue from how I snipped it out.
Worked a little bit on my Heavyarms after getting the USAGS nippers. Forgot to take a picture of the torso before I put it all away.
Pictures show how smooth it gets.
Nail file
Post-filing, can see the stress mark
Tilted in the light, can see the smoothness and shine
Alright! I tested. Interestingly, shaking up the frame mix this morning had it turn much darker, surprised me as I had thoroughly whisked the heck out of it already. Guess it just marinated together overnight...
Frame:
Black armor:
Grey primer on top spoon, black on bottom spoon.
Mm, I'm somewhat OK with these! They do indeed look better than they did in the jar, but I still think they're kinda off from the painted sample photos. Think I'm gonna mix up my own to try and match.
Well, looks like some Chinese reviewers received their copies a few days ago, and now reviews are popping up on YouTube. Just came across this one:
I don't speak any Chinese language, and YouTube's auto-translation captions are not ideal, but I can sorta get the general idea of what's being said.
It looks pretty dang rad, man. As big as a PG Gundam, and this reviewer says that it's more complicated to build than one. There's a very complicated, sophisticated inner skeleton, and my impression is that at least some of the outer plates are painted. It's pretty expensive - USAGundamStore has it for $200; ShowZStore (a China-based retailer I frequently buy 3rd party Transformers from) has it for $150 - but looks really pretty, and interesting. I'm very, very tempted.
I'm sure all the Slegger Law heads are hyped.
Those exist, right?
the beefy guy who died in original gundam?
The latest Gundam film that's coming out soon is a reversioning of an infamous episode of OG Gundam.
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
but i am kind of weirdly fascinated by where they're putting cucuruz doan's island. like if sleggar's there it's gotta be post-jaburo and...right before they go back to space? interested to see why the re-arrangement
also c'mon sleggar fans have to be sleggheads
Sleggarnauts
Rock Band DLC | GW:OttW - arrcd | WLD - Thortar
It's not a great movie, but it's definitely not bad, and they nail the G1 aesthetic.
Got head and arm finished tonight.
Am I supposed to clip these tabs on the V? Assembled shots show them, but show art doesn't.
Weirdly I kind of like them with the tabs.
you can sand down your vfins even sharper after clipping them if you'd like, but i do agree that depending on the design, some look good left on (the one on the pale rider's antenna comes to mind)
MG, RG and PG don’t feature them, I presume because Bandai assumes those are mainly going to be built by older modelers.
I trim them off for a more show accurate look and I noticed there is like an almost imperceptible notch between the fin and the flag that once i noticed it broke the image of it being part of the design rather than a safety bit
Also reminds me, the ones for the Turn A are so bad
I try building up in light coats I get sandy, grainy finish. I try doing heavy, wet coats and I get totally uneven finish.
https://imgur.com/a/IczUtbR
Time to reset, gonna paint like a hundred spoons until I'm good at this.
Light coats - Some of your paint is drying before it reaches the part, which gives that dusted grainy finish. You can either try to spray from closer or add something like Slo-Dri to your paint.
Heavy coats - Look up Orange Peel texture.
Don Onitaijin MiniPla, for a fraction of the price of the DX toy
I wonder if the skirt moves so it can actually sit like the suit can
MATSURI, MATSURI DA!! HA HA HA HA HA!
I suppose I'll absolutely have to order the BR435 battery for the beam saber. Never seen a battery with that form factor before.
Behold! A scale plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits! The best part? It has a to-scale copy within itself... of the mold for the plastic model kit of the machine Bandai uses to make plastic model kits.
So it looks like there's a couple of different names you want to look out for.
We can still go deeper, have it be able to make actual kits that you can then build yourself.