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The Painting exhibition a thread

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Posts

  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    I'm painting a Legio Gryphonicus Warlord for Adeptus Titanicus.

    There is a specific word for getting thrown out of a window (defenestration), a specific word for playing a harp (citharize), and there's even a specific word for shitty handwriting (griffonage), but I really wish there was a specific word to describe that sinking feeling that occurs when you apply the first layer of Averland Sunset and your model goes from looking like a WIP to looking like a four year old's fingerpainting project.

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    edited May 2021
    It's a smart move for them since it should lessen production cost & time for their core brushes and they can still peddle their 'artificer' line (rebranded Winsor & Newton) for more premium brushes.

    Also 'paint like a pro'? Come on. Name me one pro aside from Sam Lenz who uses synthetic brushes.

    EDIT: I guess Duncan uses those dogshit Army Painter brushes and I'm pretty sure they're synthetic.

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    edited May 2021
    Are they changing or adding? The article sound like the latter. Maybe a slow phase out of the regular line?

    honovere on
  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    My guess is replacing the basic brush line with synthetics and keeping the 3 artificer brushes. I could see them dropping the artificers at some point too. I can't imagine there's a big market for them since most painters who understand why they're better probably also know about Raphael, Rosemary & Co., Winsor & Newton, Artis Opus, etc.

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  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Hey Painting Hivemind, I'm looking for advice.

    I'm going to try painting a few figs separate from their bases for the first time ever, and I'm wondering how exactly you go about attaching the fig to the base after you've done all the painting work. Without ruining the painting work on either?

    I'm a little hesitant because I've always affixed the base to the figure before priming, and I really make sure those fuckers never come off. Pinning, heavy-handed with epoxies or commercial-grade CA, etc.

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Depends on the base generally I just know to use super glue to do it

    honovere
  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. normal (not weird)Registered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    Hey Painting Hivemind, I'm looking for advice.

    I'm going to try painting a few figs separate from their bases for the first time ever, and I'm wondering how exactly you go about attaching the fig to the base after you've done all the painting work. Without ruining the painting work on either?

    I'm a little hesitant because I've always affixed the base to the figure before priming, and I really make sure those fuckers never come off. Pinning, heavy-handed with epoxies or commercial-grade CA, etc.

    Super glue, used sparingly. Whats the base like?

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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Just using superglue can create the issue where you're just gluing two layers of paint together so there's no sturdiness.

    A popular method is to drill a small hole into each foot (or wherever there's going to be contact) and gluing in a metal rod (like a piece of paperclip). Then you drill 2 matching holes into the base, drop a little glue on, and put the pins in place. Much stronger that way.

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  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Nips wrote: »
    Hey Painting Hivemind, I'm looking for advice.

    I'm going to try painting a few figs separate from their bases for the first time ever, and I'm wondering how exactly you go about attaching the fig to the base after you've done all the painting work. Without ruining the painting work on either?

    I'm a little hesitant because I've always affixed the base to the figure before priming, and I really make sure those fuckers never come off. Pinning, heavy-handed with epoxies or commercial-grade CA, etc.

    Super glue, used sparingly. Whats the base like?

    I'm trying the baking soda+CA style base like in this video. The base underneath is a 1/8" MDF cut to my needs (a hex).

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  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Another option is to set up for pinning but don’t glue the mini down before creating the base. Then you have reference points for the feet so you know where to put that Tactical Rock™ and you can then drill and pin through the base material.
    Adds a couple extra steps but…

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
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  • DiannaoChongDiannaoChong Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Are they changing or adding? The article sound like the latter. Maybe a slow phase out of the regular line?

    Covid hit minks pretty badly, I assumed sables as well which is really impacting stuff with brushes. A lot of Europe is phasing out the industry all together, so I suspect this is at minimum a slow march to full replacement.

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  • AegeriAegeri Plateau of LengRegistered User regular
    edited May 2021
    As long as these brushes put paint on models I don't really care much.

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  • webguy20webguy20 I spend too much time on the Internet Registered User regular
    Aegeri wrote: »
    As long as these brushes put paint on models I don't really care much.

    The issue is some do it much better than others. Modern synthetics are much better than older ones, but they still aren't as nice as high quality natural bristles.

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  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    Another thing was finished, my ability to take pictures that don't suck was not among them.
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  • Dr_KeenbeanDr_Keenbean Dumb as a butt Planet Express ShipRegistered User regular
    Sometimes I paint things too! And sometimes I speed paint them.

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  • ExtreaminatusExtreaminatus Registered User regular
    MKII and MKIII armor is surprisingly satisfying to paint

    valhalla130
  • GR_ZombieGR_Zombie Krillin It Registered User regular
    If the waist proportions on the mkiii were a little bit better, they’d be perfect. Not too difficult to modify though.

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    MK3 works great for human power armour next to modern primaris marine armour, too, I think.

  • Lord_AsmodeusLord_Asmodeus goeticSobriquet: Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered User regular
    I can't seem to get painting these cloaks/cloth down and I don't know why.

    Also should Sororitas gloves be the same color as the armor, or their cloaks?

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  • Mr_RoseMr_Rose 83 Blue Ridge Protects the Holy Registered User regular
    Up to you. I paint all the “soft” parts the same but there’s no reason not to do otherwise.

    ...because dragons are AWESOME! That's why.
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  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    Legio Gryphonicus walks! (Sort of). I'm trying to decide how to base this guy, any suggestions? I'm thinking desert/dry earth using sealed down very thin layers of Agrellan Earth to get very tiny cracks to help sell the scale, plus maybe some rocks and an Epic Rhino or something.

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    This was also the first time I have ever used transfers (it was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be) and weathering (I uhh, learned a bit).

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  • honoverehonovere Registered User regular
    Desert base sounds like a good idea. A bit of light dusting on the feed should also work well with the blue-grey legs

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  • [Expletive deleted][Expletive deleted] The mediocre doctor NorwayRegistered User regular
    I suggest a dessert base. Just have it wading through a nice creme brule or a tub of neapolitan ice cream.

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  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    honovere wrote: »
    Desert base sounds like a good idea. A bit of light dusting on the feed should also work well with the blue-grey legs
    I suggest a dessert base. Just have it wading through a nice creme brule or a tub of neapolitan ice cream.

    The way I remembered the difference between Desert and Dessert when I was a little kid was that DeSert has one S for "Sand", but DeSSert has two esses for "Strawberry Shortcake".

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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    Still needs all the detail work obviously, but I ended up rolling to determine which Kabal to play for my Crusade list as a way of narrowing down color schemes.

    Ended up Obsidian Rose and after multiple tries, have a red I'm happy with as well as a highlight color for the sails.

    Gotta figure out a color to use to throw some DE runes on the hull probably, then maybe a metallic for the floor of the raider and all the pokey bits.

    Still.... PROGRESS. And it's in the same tonal range as my Wych cult colors, so that's a win.


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  • AegeriAegeri Plateau of LengRegistered User regular
    edited May 2021
    Been painting my Cursed City. Again, was so lucky to get this so I have been taking as much care as possible with every model in the box.

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    The first character there was my genuine attempt to paint a model white for once. It worked out really well, even if the white is powdery, the Vallejo whites did a very good job in the end. Much better than citadel white paints at least. The second character IMO is one of my best models, especially because I deliberately tried to use no metal paints on the model if I could avoid it. Only a hint of metallic paint across the paint job and I think that worked out extremely well. The big Vargskyr was a very fun model and actually didn't take me very long to paint at all. I did consider making him a lighter skin tone, but the more I painted it the more I actually liked the darkoth flesh with the gore-grunta fur as a general combination. The rat swarms were pretty easy to paint, but just lots of tiny details to pop paint into like wounds and eyes etc. The paint on those rats is Vermin Fur, which I got from my friend giving me back my old paints. It's 23 years old! Don't make paint to last like that anymore.

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  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    Since I really only really get to paint on the weekend. I have been working on what I had primed but I keep running into switching out minis on the painting handle. I only have two the old black one and a red one
    When they were selling the 5 pack I was tempted but again this was the start of the rollercoaster so I have been debating about getting the new handle and maybe more than 1

  • BrainleechBrainleech 機知に富んだコメントはここにあります Registered User regular
    I finally broke down and took an inventory of what paints do I have
    After that was done I worked on some of the wyches and thought I did prime them last year might as well start them
    my DoK Melusai
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    I know I have to do the highlights and washes but at least I started
    Flayed one flesh is weird for a layer paint. In swapping around wyches on the two handles I have and then the melusai I feel I am going to get at least 3 more handles since they are cheaper than i think and it will help me instead of juggling the models around as I paint them

    The handle really helps me paint with my large hands it's at times hard to hold the model right to get certain angles

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  • AegeriAegeri Plateau of LengRegistered User regular
    I believe this to be the best model I have ever painted.

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    Normally, all I can think about is what I did wrong or criticisms, but while this model has a couple of flaws - the extra part of the coat being grey instead of yellow or a light brown didn't work out too well - it's just pleases me so much I can actually overlook it (for once).

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    Should I be worried at all if some acetone got into a vallejo airbrush paint bottle? I was rinsing my airbrush nozzle, tip, paint well with acetone and I aimed the paint brush wrong and the acetone ended up hitting the paint bottle and my empty wet palette. I wiped them off but I think the acetone evaporated away before I could grab some paper towel and wipe them off cause I couldn't feel any wetness on them.

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  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. normal (not weird)Registered User regular
    edited May 2021
    If the acetone is going to seriously damage the plastic bottle itd be readily apparent.

    Styrofoam Sammich on
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  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. normal (not weird)Registered User regular
    Years later Ive finally figured out power swords

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  • StragintStragint Do Not Gift Always DeclinesRegistered User regular
    edited May 2021
    If the acetone is going to seriously damage the plastic bottle itd be readily apparent.

    Cool, thank you! Just got these paints and was kind of freaking out that I had some how ruined them.

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  • SmokeStacksSmokeStacks Registered User regular
    @Aegeri, where did you get the cobblestone base for that fellow?

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  • AegeriAegeri Plateau of LengRegistered User regular
    edited May 2021
    @Aegeri, where did you get the cobblestone base for that fellow?

    From a model train/scenic hobby store. The cobblestone comes in sheets and is fairly expensive at $27 NZ, but it's unbelievably easy to work with. Simply glue your warhammer base to it, then cut it out and trim the edges. Simple, quick and looks fabulous with zero effort required. I'll get the exact brand next time I visit my local hobby store. You should be able to do around 30 or so miniatures depending on the size and even bigger models (180mm bases) it's wide enough to cover. I was cutting it up to use in thin strips with mud on some bases, but then I realized how easy it was just to put it on the base entirely and started doing that.

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  • ElvenshaeElvenshae Registered User regular
    That guy looks like he'd fit right in with the Zaporozhian Cossacks, @Aegeri . :D

  • NipsNips Luxuriating in existential crisis.Registered User regular
    Hey, it's a blue moon once again, and I finished more STOMPY ROBOTS!

    I tried drybrushing with a makeup brush for the first time, and BOY HOWDY does that react differently than with traditional brushes. It really lays down the pigment fast if you've overloaded the brush even slightly. That said, the brush gave a very uniform covering that I really, really appreciate.

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    Glamour shots under the spoiler.
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  • Styrofoam SammichStyrofoam Sammich WANT. normal (not weird)Registered User regular
    For a lot of techniques, a makeup brush dry brushing is a viable alternative to an airbrush

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  • KhraulKhraul Registered User regular
    I find makeup brushes a little harder to gauge when loading paint, but the result is worth it. Much smoother shading than a regular drybrush, especially on "organics" like skin or cloth.

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