For small bits that's probably a good idea so they don't fly away
A true story
I went to prime a bunch of things a couple of weeks ago so I set it up days in advance just in case work kicked my ass I would not miss out on that window to prime in
one of the minis I planned on priming was Lelith
The force of the air from the spray can tore her from the tape I use to prime with and her hair and that hairband snapped off
Because I prime in the side yard which is all dirt it was some miracle I found her hairband
When I rebuilt her it took an effort as reattaching her head to the hairband and the massive ton of hair to it was again took some skill
As mine is now not quite right the swoop of hair is higher
Trying to build a Skaven plague furnace and I am dreading painting this. I want to paint it in sub assembly but I don't know how to prime them without holding the pieces individually. I guess I should just do that.
As someone who has done two, do sub assemblies. I did one with and one without. The one I didnt do it on was a nightmare to get painted. Get floral wire, bluetack, and stick all to something to paint so it all stands up. Or as other people have mentioned, just have it lean on something minimizing touching surfaces and just get all the sides and try to lift/hold/rest on the parts that connect and wont be seen.
You can always touch up with brush primer too.
edit: I think you mentioned this in another thread, priming the sprues is also a good idea. I was able to do one but not the other and it was rough.
DiannaoChong on
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
edited May 2021
Skeletons and an undead cat today. I am getting very close to having all of Cursed City actually painted and ready to play with! It's worth noting I have never spent more time on a battleline style model than those skeletons. They got multiple coats, some highlighting and a drybrush. That's not usual! I was going to do highlights on the cloaks but by this point I was over it and decided to move on. At the same time, I do kind of what to go back and do them in future, so who knows. Making it a little dirtier and degraded would look really good. I will say the skeleton models are like 90% cloak and the cloaks should be the first thing you paint on all of these models. If you do anything else first you will end up endlessly correcting cloak on all the models for the rest of your life.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Thank you everyone for all the advice. I am feeling a lot better about moving forward with painting this model. I have a 5 day weekend coming up next week so I'm trying to decide if I want to try to finish the cursed city stuff or focus on busting out a bunch of Skaven.
I have way too much stuff to paint. Gonna try to at least finish all of the cursed city skeletons this week.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
edited June 2021
Is there any actual difference in using GW's contrast primer or scale 75's instant paint primer compared to a similar non-contrast primer color?
Stragint on
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
Finally painted the Cursed City Zombies. I made them as much of a random hodgepodge of different colors and styles as I could. They look suitably disgusting in person. I could probably go back and do more highlights to these models, but at this point I'm not particularly keen on spending that long.
As for contrast paint, generally speaking I find it does better on Grey Seer/Wraithbone, but it still works on anything else that I've tried. Really the tone of the base is what sets the overall color, with some contrast paints looking considerably different depending on the primer (so you might want to check a color swatch to make sure).
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Mostly my issue is price. The instant color primers I can use in an airbrush are $9 for 60ml while I can get a 200ml bottle of vallejo primer for about $18.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
edited June 2021
I'm not 100% confident on that, but I've had considerably better results from Wraithbone/Grey Seer than most non-contrast paint basing. At the same time, a plain black or white hasn't gone wrong, but I do find that Gulliman Flesh (as an example) is very heroin-chic colored on white compared to the more vibrant color you get out of Wraithbone.
Basically if you paint using a lot of contrast paint, which I certainly do, it's worth buying the contrast paint primer. It does work better. If you're using only a handful or doing a lot of other stuff on top of your contrast paint? Probably not worth it.
Vallejo has a few different colours in their primer range including light grey and light brown and with a airbrush they go on really smooth. Theoretically that should be a good substitute for GW's wraithbone and grey seer.
People raved about an army painter skeleton bone before wraithbone came out
but these are the same people carelessly using auto primer and kylon cans....
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Mr_Rose83 Blue Ridge Protects the HolyRegistered Userregular
Physically the important part is a smooth application to allow the natural wicking effect that contrast/instant relies on. The base colour will also affect the final tone much, much more due to the translucency of the colours.
Any colour you can persuade to go on with a smooth/semi-gloss finish that is relatively light will work, therefore.
This guy was painted over a can of white designed for outdoor furniture, for example:
(Please ignore the compression artefacts)
AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
I actually do not know why there are two undead cats in cursed city, but I finished painting the other last night. The other cat is based on my IRL cat who died, Arfur. I feel he would think highly of returning from the dead to terrorise the living once more.
This also means I am nearly done painting cursed city. Only around 14 models remaining, of which 12 are small objective markers or just the bat swarms.
Lord_AsmodeusgoeticSobriquet:Here is your magical cryptic riddle-tumour: I AM A TIME MACHINERegistered Userregular
I decided to get a Flock Box for static grass, I hope I use it enough to make it worth it.
Capital is only the fruit of labor, and could never have existed if Labor had not first existed. Labor is superior to capital, and deserves much the higher consideration. - Lincoln
I've FINALLY managed to find something I'm happy with for my Kabal portion of my Drukhari.
The art, mainly going for the green semi-metallic tone in these. Also desperately trying to avoid the GW style edge highlighted panel thing that they do with Drukhari, since I really don't like it.
The mini. It has a lot more tone in real life... I need to get an actual camera or something.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
As I put together my next 20 Skaven plague monks to reach 140, I can't help but think about how Nick Nanavati painted 2000 points of orks in 72 hours and kind of wish I had done the same with my Skaven.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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VanguardBut now the dream is over. And the insect is awake.Registered User, __BANNED USERSregular
3 more models down - maybe my favorite yet, with this one in particular
6 more to go until I’m fully painted for the tournament on the 19th
I'm not 100% confident on that, but I've had considerably better results from Wraithbone/Grey Seer than most non-contrast paint basing. At the same time, a plain black or white hasn't gone wrong, but I do find that Gulliman Flesh (as an example) is very heroin-chic colored on white compared to the more vibrant color you get out of Wraithbone.
Basically if you paint using a lot of contrast paint, which I certainly do, it's worth buying the contrast paint primer. It does work better. If you're using only a handful or doing a lot of other stuff on top of your contrast paint? Probably not worth it.
I don't use contrast paint at all and I still prefer Grey Seer or Wraithbone as a primer due to how much better they are to work with compared to the disaster-in-a-can that is Corax White.
Chaos Black and Leadbelcher are the best citadel rattlecans but Grey Seer and Wraithbone are giod. Corax White is for creating no slip flooring in an industrial kitchen.
My state is in lockdown again and also I'm on holidays, so it paint time.
More super powered individuals for the super throne.
I put models on Instagram now: asher_paints
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
I can't wait until I get my Crisis Protocol and can paint them. Going to be such an interesting challenge, because I am going to try and replicate the movie characters look where possible.
StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
As I try to get into the mood to paint my Skaven, rest of cursed city, my Necrons, my Tau, my AdMech, or my Space Wolves, I'm starting to realize I desperately need an organization system for my paints and other hobby stuff.
Does anyone have suggestions? I don't know if I have room for paint racks, I easily have over 100 GW paints and a shit ton of scale 75 along with vallejo, army Painter, green stuff world, and secret weapon miniatures.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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AegeriTiny wee bacteriumsPlateau of LengRegistered Userregular
My biggest piece of advice? Once you've decided how to paint a model in an army write it down once you're down. If you need to add models to that army months down the line this is going to save you a LOT of trouble.
Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
We doing hobby organization porn?
What's on my desk? My painting notes, the minis I'm working on right now, clean water/towel, and the next paint I'm going to apply. That's it. This isn't staged, this is literally how I left it last night. I just adjusted the light and took the picture.
I always try to reset to this at the end of the night in case I can't paint for a long stretch. Then when I come back I know where I was and it's easy to pick back up.
My biggest piece of advice? Once you've decided how to paint a model in an army write it down once you're down. If you need to add models to that army months down the line this is going to save you a LOT of trouble.
The alternative is to have a scheme so simple it's literally not possible to forget.
E.g., literally every piece of metal I paint is leadbelcher with dark tone on top and no highlights. Hard to forget that.
So the more recentish Battletech game is just the two boxes right?
Odd place for the question, but still!
There's the A Game Of Armored Combat box, and it's companion the Beginner Box. The AGoAC box contains eight miniatures, and the BB contains two, one of which is a duplicate (Wolverine) from the AGoAC box. The Beginner Box is literally there to help new players start playing the game, from zero. The AGoAC box is the "main" box to expand into the game fully.
There is also, now, the Clan Invasion box, which includes seven miniatures (five 'Mechs, two stands of Battle Armor Infantry) and includes more advanced rules and equipment.
And for the record and to stay on topic, the miniatures are really nice to paint.
Oh wrong thread, but a task accomplished nonetheless
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StragintDo Not GiftAlways DeclinesRegistered Userregular
Mostly I need something to store stuff. I have this little sliding shelf thing from ikea but it is kind of inconvenient for the amount of paints I have. I also have a bunch of bottles of pigment, oil paints, and bunches of other basing and specialty stuff I use on the models. I bought a decently sized utility box that barely fits in dropper bottles standing to hold paints but my stuff is so cluttered that I have stuff on top of it so opening it is a pain cause then I need to find a place for the stuff on top of it and now every thing is basically in piles on this tiny table next to the desk I paint on.
The clutter is making it real difficult for me to want to paint cause it bothers me but I don't know what I can use to organize it all. I'm not confident in paint racks since the desk is next to the stairs with no walls on any sides of it to lean a paint rack against. Plus that would be a bunch of paint racks with how much paint I have.
PSN: Reaper_Stragint, Steam: DoublePitstoChesty
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
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Dr_KeenbeanDumb as a buttPlanet Express ShipRegistered Userregular
You don't need 100s of paints. Get rid of paint. I don't use most of the paint in the photo I posted, it's just there because I just got a bunch from Kickstarters and haven't figured out what can go yet. When I do it's getting given/thrown away or at the very least placed out of sight.
What's more valuable? The $3 bottle of paint that you never use and that's going to dry out or the square inch of desk space you'd get back by tossing it now?
Paint racks come in lots of shapes & sizes. They don't all have to stand up, those just take up less desk surface.
Posts
A true story
I went to prime a bunch of things a couple of weeks ago so I set it up days in advance just in case work kicked my ass I would not miss out on that window to prime in
one of the minis I planned on priming was Lelith
The force of the air from the spray can tore her from the tape I use to prime with and her hair and that hairband snapped off
Because I prime in the side yard which is all dirt it was some miracle I found her hairband
When I rebuilt her it took an effort as reattaching her head to the hairband and the massive ton of hair to it was again took some skill
As mine is now not quite right the swoop of hair is higher
As someone who has done two, do sub assemblies. I did one with and one without. The one I didnt do it on was a nightmare to get painted. Get floral wire, bluetack, and stick all to something to paint so it all stands up. Or as other people have mentioned, just have it lean on something minimizing touching surfaces and just get all the sides and try to lift/hold/rest on the parts that connect and wont be seen.
You can always touch up with brush primer too.
edit: I think you mentioned this in another thread, priming the sprues is also a good idea. I was able to do one but not the other and it was rough.
I have way too much stuff to paint. Gonna try to at least finish all of the cursed city skeletons this week.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
As for contrast paint, generally speaking I find it does better on Grey Seer/Wraithbone, but it still works on anything else that I've tried. Really the tone of the base is what sets the overall color, with some contrast paints looking considerably different depending on the primer (so you might want to check a color swatch to make sure).
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
Basically if you paint using a lot of contrast paint, which I certainly do, it's worth buying the contrast paint primer. It does work better. If you're using only a handful or doing a lot of other stuff on top of your contrast paint? Probably not worth it.
but these are the same people carelessly using auto primer and kylon cans....
Any colour you can persuade to go on with a smooth/semi-gloss finish that is relatively light will work, therefore.
This guy was painted over a can of white designed for outdoor furniture, for example:
(Please ignore the compression artefacts)
Nintendo Network ID: AzraelRose
DropBox invite link - get 500MB extra free.
This also means I am nearly done painting cursed city. Only around 14 models remaining, of which 12 are small objective markers or just the bat swarms.
The art, mainly going for the green semi-metallic tone in these. Also desperately trying to avoid the GW style edge highlighted panel thing that they do with Drukhari, since I really don't like it.
The mini. It has a lot more tone in real life... I need to get an actual camera or something.
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
3 more models down - maybe my favorite yet, with this one in particular
6 more to go until I’m fully painted for the tournament on the 19th
I don't use contrast paint at all and I still prefer Grey Seer or Wraithbone as a primer due to how much better they are to work with compared to the disaster-in-a-can that is Corax White.
EDIT: Well, titanium white artist paints (oil or heavy body acrylic) are fairly decent.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
Actually prefer it to my Mephiston Red Citadel rattle can, which always seems to have too much liquid coming out.
MWO: Adamski
Except it doesnt match the paint by the same name in the pot
I've had no problem with the Vallejo white paint myself.
I also avoid white other than zenithal shading, so.... yeah
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
Bonus shot of the Arena Champion because she kicks ass. Red lens helm on the Blaster Reaver so know which one it is
Gamertag - Khraul
PSN - Razide6
More super powered individuals for the super throne.
Does anyone have suggestions? I don't know if I have room for paint racks, I easily have over 100 GW paints and a shit ton of scale 75 along with vallejo, army Painter, green stuff world, and secret weapon miniatures.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What's on my desk? My painting notes, the minis I'm working on right now, clean water/towel, and the next paint I'm going to apply. That's it. This isn't staged, this is literally how I left it last night. I just adjusted the light and took the picture.
I always try to reset to this at the end of the night in case I can't paint for a long stretch. Then when I come back I know where I was and it's easy to pick back up.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705
The alternative is to have a scheme so simple it's literally not possible to forget.
E.g., literally every piece of metal I paint is leadbelcher with dark tone on top and no highlights. Hard to forget that.
Odd place for the question, but still!
There's the A Game Of Armored Combat box, and it's companion the Beginner Box. The AGoAC box contains eight miniatures, and the BB contains two, one of which is a duplicate (Wolverine) from the AGoAC box. The Beginner Box is literally there to help new players start playing the game, from zero. The AGoAC box is the "main" box to expand into the game fully.
There is also, now, the Clan Invasion box, which includes seven miniatures (five 'Mechs, two stands of Battle Armor Infantry) and includes more advanced rules and equipment.
And for the record and to stay on topic, the miniatures are really nice to paint.
The clutter is making it real difficult for me to want to paint cause it bothers me but I don't know what I can use to organize it all. I'm not confident in paint racks since the desk is next to the stairs with no walls on any sides of it to lean a paint rack against. Plus that would be a bunch of paint racks with how much paint I have.
What is the point of being alive if you don't at least try to do something remarkable? ~ Mario Novak
I never fear death or dyin', I only fear never trying.
What's more valuable? The $3 bottle of paint that you never use and that's going to dry out or the square inch of desk space you'd get back by tossing it now?
Paint racks come in lots of shapes & sizes. They don't all have to stand up, those just take up less desk surface.
3DS: 1650-8480-6786
Switch: SW-0653-8208-4705