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[PC Build Thread] Someday we'll all be able to buy GPU's again

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Posts

  • V1mV1m Registered User regular
    GnomeTank wrote: »
    Infidel wrote: »
    750W is solid for almost any modern gaming setup single GPU. Went 850W for a 3090 though.

    Unless you’re over clocking fairly hard everything these days is sitting pretty well in there. And it’s rarer to see a lot of drives/peripherals on top.

    I ran my 3090 + 5900X on a 750W and had zero issues. 850W is probably smart, but 750W was fine. Had a mild OC on the 3090 but nothing that caused the power draw to spike exponentially.

    I bought a very good 750w PSU last year and now my policy is: if 750w won't run it then I don't want it.

    GnomeTank
  • gBAZgBAZ Registered User regular
    Looking over my new pc, that has two M.2 slots, and after looking over the manual,
    one is PCIe 4.0 x4 and the other is PCIe 3.0 x4 (mine is hooked up here to the 3.0 slot).

    Which one would be better for gaming?
    Does the 4.0 slot reduce my cpu and/or gpu or something? (lanes clog or something)

    I'm asking because, if it is better overall to put my M.2 card into the 4.0 slot, why did the pc peeps instal my M.2 card into the 3.0 slot.

    M2_1 slot (from AMD® Processor)
    -Supports PCIe 4.0 x4 (3rd Gen AMD Ryzen™)
    -Supports PCIe 3.0 x4 (2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™/ Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Vega Graphics and 2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Graphics)
    -Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280/ 22110 storage devices
    M2_2 slot (from AMD® X570 Chipset)
    -Supports PCIe 3.0 x4 and SATA 6Gb/s
    -Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280 storage devices

    In debt, budget gog+steam collector.
  • ZythonZython Registered User regular
    edited August 14
    Got the replacement motherboard in. But now I have an issue.

    When I put everything in, the board wouldn’t turn on. I took out the CPU, RAM, and Graphics card, and put them in the old motherboard out of the case, which seems to POST. Tested the new one the same way, and it POSTS, too.

    So the question is: What the hell is going on?

    Edit: Took another look at it, and the debug LED for the CPU is turning on. I think I may have messed it up when trying to move it to the new motherboard.

    Zython on
    Switch: SW-3245-5421-8042 | 3DS Friend Code: 4854-6465-0299 | PSN: Zaithon
    Steam: pazython
  • schussschuss Registered User regular
    3080TI means I can now play fallen order in full 4k on high settings. My basement has an 80 inch sony 4k. This is great.

    GnomeTankDixonemp123BetsuniJimboDarkewolfean_alt
  • ZythonZython Registered User regular
    Update: I put the motherboard back in the case and everything seems to work. Weird.

    Switch: SW-3245-5421-8042 | 3DS Friend Code: 4854-6465-0299 | PSN: Zaithon
    Steam: pazython
    Xeddicusemp123Betsuni
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    gBAZ wrote: »
    Looking over my new pc, that has two M.2 slots, and after looking over the manual,
    one is PCIe 4.0 x4 and the other is PCIe 3.0 x4 (mine is hooked up here to the 3.0 slot).

    Which one would be better for gaming?
    Does the 4.0 slot reduce my cpu and/or gpu or something? (lanes clog or something)

    I'm asking because, if it is better overall to put my M.2 card into the 4.0 slot, why did the pc peeps instal my M.2 card into the 3.0 slot.

    M2_1 slot (from AMD® Processor)
    -Supports PCIe 4.0 x4 (3rd Gen AMD Ryzen™)
    -Supports PCIe 3.0 x4 (2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™/ Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Vega Graphics and 2nd Gen AMD Ryzen™ with Radeon™ Graphics)
    -Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280/ 22110 storage devices
    M2_2 slot (from AMD® X570 Chipset)
    -Supports PCIe 3.0 x4 and SATA 6Gb/s
    -Supports 2242/ 2260/ 2280 storage devices

    Sounds like a B550 board? If so you should be fine putting an SSD in the PCIE4 M.2 slot. It’s controlled by the CPU rather than the motherboard chipset, but this is the entire point if the B550 chipset - to give you a PCIE4 M.2 slot and video card slot controlled by the CPU without needing a full PCIE4 X570 chipset.

    I think you need a 5000 series Ryzen CPU though for PCIE4 to work in those slots, otherwise they’re PCIE3. I think.

  • NamrokNamrok Registered User regular
    Well, recapping the old Gigabyte Socket 939 board went well. I mean, at least I think it did. Haven't turned the board on again yet, on account of the traces.

    Repairing the traces did not go well.

    I had all my tools squared away. Studied a video for a long while. Went to go do it, and shit immediately hit the fan.

    For starters, the copper wire constantly curled away from the soldering iron! It was so squirrely I could not get it to stay still for even a second. If I could get it to stay still over the trace I was trying to adhere it to, the iron would immediately push it to the side. Just once I got a copper wire to bridge one of the damaged traces, and then when I went to do the trace next to it, the mother fucking thing just stuck to the iron instead the moment it accidentally touched it!

    So yeah, none of those things happened in any of the videos I watched. It was unknown copper wire that came in a cheap Chinese soldering kit off Amazon. Went ahead and ordered some better stuff maybe? That'll take a week or more to get here.

    Oh well.

    I thought about using the trimmed off leads from the capacitors, but those are way too fucking big I'm pretty sure. They sure are sturdy though. I donno, maybe I'll give it another try tomorrow. I'm man handling this thing so badly I'll be shocked if it works when I'm done. But it was a set aside learning board. This is how we learn.

    zagdrob
  • jungleroomxjungleroomx It's not a "weapon art", it's an ANIMATION Registered User regular
    Zython wrote: »
    Update: I put the motherboard back in the case and everything seems to work. Weird.

    To put it in technical terms:

    The shit just be like that sometimes

    MulletudeZythonV1mzagdrobschuss3cl1ps3emp123BetsuniElvenshaeDarkewolfe
  • BlazeFireBlazeFire Registered User regular
    Namrok wrote: »
    Well, recapping the old Gigabyte Socket 939 board went well. I mean, at least I think it did. Haven't turned the board on again yet, on account of the traces.

    Repairing the traces did not go well.

    I had all my tools squared away. Studied a video for a long while. Went to go do it, and shit immediately hit the fan.

    For starters, the copper wire constantly curled away from the soldering iron! It was so squirrely I could not get it to stay still for even a second. If I could get it to stay still over the trace I was trying to adhere it to, the iron would immediately push it to the side. Just once I got a copper wire to bridge one of the damaged traces, and then when I went to do the trace next to it, the mother fucking thing just stuck to the iron instead the moment it accidentally touched it!

    So yeah, none of those things happened in any of the videos I watched. It was unknown copper wire that came in a cheap Chinese soldering kit off Amazon. Went ahead and ordered some better stuff maybe? That'll take a week or more to get here.

    Oh well.

    I thought about using the trimmed off leads from the capacitors, but those are way too fucking big I'm pretty sure. They sure are sturdy though. I donno, maybe I'll give it another try tomorrow. I'm man handling this thing so badly I'll be shocked if it works when I'm done. But it was a set aside learning board. This is how we learn.

    Were you using flux? Did you apply solder to the trace first? How about using tweezers to hold the wire in place with one hand?

  • NamrokNamrok Registered User regular
    BlazeFire wrote: »
    Namrok wrote: »
    Well, recapping the old Gigabyte Socket 939 board went well. I mean, at least I think it did. Haven't turned the board on again yet, on account of the traces.

    Repairing the traces did not go well.

    I had all my tools squared away. Studied a video for a long while. Went to go do it, and shit immediately hit the fan.

    For starters, the copper wire constantly curled away from the soldering iron! It was so squirrely I could not get it to stay still for even a second. If I could get it to stay still over the trace I was trying to adhere it to, the iron would immediately push it to the side. Just once I got a copper wire to bridge one of the damaged traces, and then when I went to do the trace next to it, the mother fucking thing just stuck to the iron instead the moment it accidentally touched it!

    So yeah, none of those things happened in any of the videos I watched. It was unknown copper wire that came in a cheap Chinese soldering kit off Amazon. Went ahead and ordered some better stuff maybe? That'll take a week or more to get here.

    Oh well.

    I thought about using the trimmed off leads from the capacitors, but those are way too fucking big I'm pretty sure. They sure are sturdy though. I donno, maybe I'll give it another try tomorrow. I'm man handling this thing so badly I'll be shocked if it works when I'm done. But it was a set aside learning board. This is how we learn.

    Were you using flux? Did you apply solder to the trace first? How about using tweezers to hold the wire in place with one hand?

    Yes, I used flux. I tinned the trace and the wire first. I used tweezers to try to hold it in place. The problem was the wire was just too squirrelly. Attempting to tin it, it would just arc away from the iron. I'm not even sure it got any solder on it. Holding it in tweezers, it would move seemingly on it's own all over the place despite being held down. This was some extremely floppy wire. It was virtually impossible to work with.

  • ZythonZython Registered User regular
    So now that I've got my rig finally set up. What should I look at if I'm interested in overclocking my Ryzen 5 5600x?

    Switch: SW-3245-5421-8042 | 3DS Friend Code: 4854-6465-0299 | PSN: Zaithon
    Steam: pazython
  • BlazeFireBlazeFire Registered User regular
    Namrok wrote: »
    BlazeFire wrote: »
    Namrok wrote: »
    Well, recapping the old Gigabyte Socket 939 board went well. I mean, at least I think it did. Haven't turned the board on again yet, on account of the traces.

    Repairing the traces did not go well.

    I had all my tools squared away. Studied a video for a long while. Went to go do it, and shit immediately hit the fan.

    For starters, the copper wire constantly curled away from the soldering iron! It was so squirrely I could not get it to stay still for even a second. If I could get it to stay still over the trace I was trying to adhere it to, the iron would immediately push it to the side. Just once I got a copper wire to bridge one of the damaged traces, and then when I went to do the trace next to it, the mother fucking thing just stuck to the iron instead the moment it accidentally touched it!

    So yeah, none of those things happened in any of the videos I watched. It was unknown copper wire that came in a cheap Chinese soldering kit off Amazon. Went ahead and ordered some better stuff maybe? That'll take a week or more to get here.

    Oh well.

    I thought about using the trimmed off leads from the capacitors, but those are way too fucking big I'm pretty sure. They sure are sturdy though. I donno, maybe I'll give it another try tomorrow. I'm man handling this thing so badly I'll be shocked if it works when I'm done. But it was a set aside learning board. This is how we learn.

    Were you using flux? Did you apply solder to the trace first? How about using tweezers to hold the wire in place with one hand?

    Yes, I used flux. I tinned the trace and the wire first. I used tweezers to try to hold it in place. The problem was the wire was just too squirrelly. Attempting to tin it, it would just arc away from the iron. I'm not even sure it got any solder on it. Holding it in tweezers, it would move seemingly on it's own all over the place despite being held down. This was some extremely floppy wire. It was virtually impossible to work with.

    What wire did you end up ordering?

  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    Finalized my PC build and I've started buying components. The more meaty bits - anyone have any negative experiences with any of these?

    Corsair RM850x
    ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming Wifi
    AMD Ryzen 7 5800X
    Cooler Master MasterAir MA624 Stealth
    Sapphire PULSE RX 6800 XT
    G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR4 3600MHz CL16

  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Any particular reason for the 6800XT over the 3080? Availability or just AMD preference? For as good as the 6800XT is, I feel like the 3080 is more future proof.

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited August 15
    First, price. There’s roughly a $600au - $1000au price difference.

    Second, I’ve never had a Radeon card before, I’m curious, and it’s not chipset limited. If I don’t like it, I can get decent resell value and grab a nVidia card.

    -Loki- on
    GnomeTank
  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    Fair enough!

    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    I may splurge an extra couple of hundred for the Nitro+ if any stock appears before I buy the card though.

  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Namrok wrote: »
    BlazeFire wrote: »
    Namrok wrote: »
    Well, recapping the old Gigabyte Socket 939 board went well. I mean, at least I think it did. Haven't turned the board on again yet, on account of the traces.

    Repairing the traces did not go well.

    I had all my tools squared away. Studied a video for a long while. Went to go do it, and shit immediately hit the fan.

    For starters, the copper wire constantly curled away from the soldering iron! It was so squirrely I could not get it to stay still for even a second. If I could get it to stay still over the trace I was trying to adhere it to, the iron would immediately push it to the side. Just once I got a copper wire to bridge one of the damaged traces, and then when I went to do the trace next to it, the mother fucking thing just stuck to the iron instead the moment it accidentally touched it!

    So yeah, none of those things happened in any of the videos I watched. It was unknown copper wire that came in a cheap Chinese soldering kit off Amazon. Went ahead and ordered some better stuff maybe? That'll take a week or more to get here.

    Oh well.

    I thought about using the trimmed off leads from the capacitors, but those are way too fucking big I'm pretty sure. They sure are sturdy though. I donno, maybe I'll give it another try tomorrow. I'm man handling this thing so badly I'll be shocked if it works when I'm done. But it was a set aside learning board. This is how we learn.

    Were you using flux? Did you apply solder to the trace first? How about using tweezers to hold the wire in place with one hand?

    Yes, I used flux. I tinned the trace and the wire first. I used tweezers to try to hold it in place. The problem was the wire was just too squirrelly. Attempting to tin it, it would just arc away from the iron. I'm not even sure it got any solder on it. Holding it in tweezers, it would move seemingly on it's own all over the place despite being held down. This was some extremely floppy wire. It was virtually impossible to work with.

    I recently watched a console repair vid and the guy had a smaller iron that has a cooler working temp, for doing work on individual chip leads. It could be your iron.

  • SmurphSmurph Registered User regular
    I have a 3070 Ti coming so I guess it's finally time to order the rest of my parts for my new PC build I've been waiting on since like January 2020. Here's what I have so far:

    https://pcpartpicker.com/user/smurph0404/saved/q36MVn

    I still need to pick out case fans. I'm trying to do some RGB stuff on this one after my current PC being strict no-lights. I've never really done RGB before though. Basically I'm wondering if I need to stick with the same brand for everything? Is there any way to make the RGB light on my ASUS mobo play nice with a bunch of Corsair stuff?

  • HexDexHexDex Registered User regular
    I've got the Rog Strix B550 F (non-wifi) and there seems to be issues with the Intel 2.5gbs LAN chipset in this board.

    My ethernet connection drops out randomly, Tried updating Intel drivers, mobo bios, no dice, still would randomly drop out.

    I ended up buying a USB ethernet dongle to stop having to deal with it.

    The wifi version of the board has the same chipset, so I would pick a different board in your shoes. The issues with the LAN adapter were annoying and last I looked there did not seem to be a full time fix.

    If you are reading this add me.
    D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter

  • ZythonZython Registered User regular
    Smurph wrote: »
    I have a 3070 Ti coming so I guess it's finally time to order the rest of my parts for my new PC build I've been waiting on since like January 2020. Here's what I have so far:

    https://pcpartpicker.com/user/smurph0404/saved/q36MVn

    I still need to pick out case fans. I'm trying to do some RGB stuff on this one after my current PC being strict no-lights. I've never really done RGB before though. Basically I'm wondering if I need to stick with the same brand for everything? Is there any way to make the RGB light on my ASUS mobo play nice with a bunch of Corsair stuff?

    So I’m not gonna claim to be an expert on the matter, but it looks like you’ve selected a Pcie 3 m2 drive, while I’m pretty sure your motherboard has a pcie v4 m2 slot. I’d suggest springing for the pcie 4 m2 drive to make the most of it.

    Switch: SW-3245-5421-8042 | 3DS Friend Code: 4854-6465-0299 | PSN: Zaithon
    Steam: pazython
    Smurph
  • OrcaOrca Registered User regular
    Zython wrote: »
    Smurph wrote: »
    I have a 3070 Ti coming so I guess it's finally time to order the rest of my parts for my new PC build I've been waiting on since like January 2020. Here's what I have so far:

    https://pcpartpicker.com/user/smurph0404/saved/q36MVn

    I still need to pick out case fans. I'm trying to do some RGB stuff on this one after my current PC being strict no-lights. I've never really done RGB before though. Basically I'm wondering if I need to stick with the same brand for everything? Is there any way to make the RGB light on my ASUS mobo play nice with a bunch of Corsair stuff?

    So I’m not gonna claim to be an expert on the matter, but it looks like you’ve selected a Pcie 3 m2 drive, while I’m pretty sure your motherboard has a pcie v4 m2 slot. I’d suggest springing for the pcie 4 m2 drive to make the most of it.

    If it's a small delta in price, go for it. It's not worth spending a lot of money on because the performance difference is small.

    * It's not HDD to SSD improvement
    * It's not even SSD to nVME improvement

    It's just a small improvement in performance. If it's $20 and you can swing it, sure, why not. But you can just as easily skip it and be none the worse off. Getting nVME is worth it over SSD, but PCIe 3 is fine.

    IMO.

    I have both PCIe 3 and 4 nVME drives in my system, and it feels much the same as when I had just PCIe 3 nVME drives in my system.

    Zython
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited August 15
    HexDex wrote: »
    I've got the Rog Strix B550 F (non-wifi) and there seems to be issues with the Intel 2.5gbs LAN chipset in this board.

    My ethernet connection drops out randomly, Tried updating Intel drivers, mobo bios, no dice, still would randomly drop out.

    I ended up buying a USB ethernet dongle to stop having to deal with it.

    The wifi version of the board has the same chipset, so I would pick a different board in your shoes. The issues with the LAN adapter were annoying and last I looked there did not seem to be a full time fix.

    I’m getting the wifi board because I’m not going to be connecting it with an Ethernet cable.

    However, any alternate B550 suggestions I should look at?

    -Loki- on
  • HexDexHexDex Registered User regular
    -Loki- wrote: »
    HexDex wrote: »
    I've got the Rog Strix B550 F (non-wifi) and there seems to be issues with the Intel 2.5gbs LAN chipset in this board.

    My ethernet connection drops out randomly, Tried updating Intel drivers, mobo bios, no dice, still would randomly drop out.

    I ended up buying a USB ethernet dongle to stop having to deal with it.

    The wifi version of the board has the same chipset, so I would pick a different board in your shoes. The issues with the LAN adapter were annoying and last I looked there did not seem to be a full time fix.

    I’m getting the wifi board because I’m not going to be connecting it with an Ethernet cable.

    However, any alternate B550 suggestions I should look at?

    Well, if you are going full time wifi and do not intend to use your ethernet port ever, you would probably be fine.

    If I were buying again today, I would probably get the MSI Tomahawk. That seems to be the board I've seen recommended most for people who are going B550. It has a 1g ethernet port as well if the 2.5g port is flakey.

    If you are reading this add me.
    D3: HexDex#1281, PSN: DireOtter, Live: DireOtter

  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    I’ve already considered the Tomahawk, unfortunately I can’t find a wifi B550, so I’d be buying a wifi card on top of it, which aren’t exactly cheap.

  • MugsleyMugsley Registered User regular
    Zython wrote: »
    Smurph wrote: »
    I have a 3070 Ti coming so I guess it's finally time to order the rest of my parts for my new PC build I've been waiting on since like January 2020. Here's what I have so far:

    https://pcpartpicker.com/user/smurph0404/saved/q36MVn

    I still need to pick out case fans. I'm trying to do some RGB stuff on this one after my current PC being strict no-lights. I've never really done RGB before though. Basically I'm wondering if I need to stick with the same brand for everything? Is there any way to make the RGB light on my ASUS mobo play nice with a bunch of Corsair stuff?

    So I’m not gonna claim to be an expert on the matter, but it looks like you’ve selected a Pcie 3 m2 drive, while I’m pretty sure your motherboard has a pcie v4 m2 slot. I’d suggest springing for the pcie 4 m2 drive to make the most of it.

    I'm 95% certain that current boards with more than one m.2 slot "downclock" both slots to PCIe3 when they're both populated. Even if one of the drives is PCIe4

  • GnomeTankGnomeTank Registered User regular
    edited August 15
    Depends on the chip set. X570 has chip set PCI-e 4.0 lanes, so it can run multiple drives at 4. B550 only supports PCI-e 4.0 through the CPU lanes. In fact it's chip set/CPU bridge only runs at PCI-e 3.0, so even if it had chip set lanes they'd be worthless.

    I assume B550 will still run one drive at 4.0 if it can, direct link to the CPU, and the second drive at 3.0 to the chip set.

    GnomeTank on
    Sagroth wrote: »
    Oh c'mon FyreWulff, no one's gonna pay to visit Uranus.
    Steam: Brainling, XBL / PSN: GnomeTank, NintendoID: Brainling, FF14: Zillius Rosh SFV: Brainling
  • NamrokNamrok Registered User regular
    Ok, after much struggle, I have successfully soldered wires repairing 2 out of the 7 damaged traces on the motherboard.

    The trick turned out to be roughing up the wire with an exacto knife blade normal to it. Also ditching the precision tweezers that were recommended and going with a blunter instrument with a wider gripping surface. Also not holding them in the tweezers so much as just pressing them down into place. The wire was so prone to leaping off the trace because it wanted to curl, holding them down with the flat of the tweezers right next to the soldering iron kept them in place long enough to cool and bond. Also not spending too long on the second end after the first because the heat will conduct down and just release it from the solder on that end instead.

    If this thing actually POSTs again after I'm done with it, I'm gonna be unbearable for a while. Way too proud of myself.

    GnomeTankJimboRed RaevynBahamutZEROSnicketysnickV1m3cl1ps3BetsuniMugsleyLD50an_alt
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    edited August 16
    Man this ROG Strix B550 thing is bumming me out. I might actually want to use ethernet at some point and don't want to have to deal with that.

    I might go back to my first choice and pay a bit more for the x570 MSI MEG Unify.

    edit - MSI have a deal going in Australia where you get Steam vouchers buying products before November 15th. The x570 Unify comes with a $50usd voucher.

    I think that'll push me over to getting this board. I spend enough on Steam that this is effectively a price reduction.

    -Loki- on
  • OrcaOrca Registered User regular
    edited August 16
    For comparison:

    Current PCIE4 drive (current boot drive, Western Digital 2TB WDS200T1X0E-00AFY0):
    x7le1fvzzfh0.png

    PCIE3 drive (old boot drive, Samsung SSD 970 EVO Plus 2TB):
    pdiuf4tjwc97.png

    Orca on
  • jungleroomxjungleroomx It's not a "weapon art", it's an ANIMATION Registered User regular
    It’s nuts PCIe 5.0 is already coming out

    OrcaThawmus
  • -Loki--Loki- Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining. Registered User regular
    We're not even fully utilizing PCIE4, so PCIE5 coming out already seems kind of redundant.

    At least for gaming, PCIE 4 will likely remain the standard now for the foreseeable future for the sample fact that the PS5 and XSX use it.

    OrcaSnicketysnick
  • NamrokNamrok Registered User regular
    Whatever is driving PCIE5 has got to be in the server space. For all we know it's an AI breakout scenario where Google Deepmind needs the extra board bandwidth to begin manipulating matter at the subatomic level and paperclip us all.

  • wunderbarwunderbar What Have I Done? Registered User regular
    yeah, in the consumer space we're really at the point where storage speed is fast enough. Even under gaming workloads the difference between a 3.0 and a 4.0 drive are not going to be material.

    and for GPU speeds, a 3090 can saturate PCIe 3.0 x16, but it still doesn't come close to the max bandwidth that PCIe 4.0x16 can hit.

    But in the enterprise workloads, if you're dealing with huge datasets and a lot of data that needs to be accessed or moved around a lot, these speeds can actually matter.

    XBL: thewunderbar PSN: thewunderbar NNID: thewunderbar Steam: wunderbar87 Twitter: wunderbar
  • Romantic UndeadRomantic Undead Registered User regular
    Hey guys, can anyone recommend me an HDMI/USB switch box?

    I want to switch my dual monitor setup between my work laptop and my home pc, but most of the switchers I find online only seem to do variations on multiple inputs/1 output. I'm looking for 2 HDMI in, 2 HDMI out, with accompanying USB ports. Nothing too fancy, just something that lets me easily switch computer video output and accessories easily and with minimal performance loss. Thanks!

    3DS FC: 1547-5210-6531
  • InfidelInfidel Heretic Registered User regular
    Sounds like you're looking for a Dual Monitor KVM? Don't have any recommendations in particular, but the right term may help ya out.

    OrokosPA.png
  • emp123emp123 Registered User regular
    Hey guys, can anyone recommend me an HDMI/USB switch box?

    I want to switch my dual monitor setup between my work laptop and my home pc, but most of the switchers I find online only seem to do variations on multiple inputs/1 output. I'm looking for 2 HDMI in, 2 HDMI out, with accompanying USB ports. Nothing too fancy, just something that lets me easily switch computer video output and accessories easily and with minimal performance loss. Thanks!

    When I was looking for something similar I ended up just going with a USB hub since the only real difference between the hub and the KVM is that I'm saving hundreds of dollars in exchange for using the buttons on my monitors to change what input their showing.

    I went with this, it was $10 cheaper in 2017 though.

  • NamrokNamrok Registered User regular
    Good luck. Once upon a time I tried finding a good KVM switch with HDMI and USB. Every single one I looked at had complaints about peripheral shenanigans when they switched. Or complaints about their high performance gaming mouse having a gimped refresh rate. Or unacceptable delays for the OS to pick the devices back up when they switched. Or the HDMI handshake failing. Or the HDMI resolution/refresh rate not being supported properly. And on and on and on.

    I'd probably just steer clear of Amazon completely for this, since you'll likely encounter nothing but the cheapest, does the bare minimum, Chinese garbage. Dozens of seemingly identical boxes all branded slightly differently, with hundreds of fake 5 star reviews, and just as many legitimate 1 star reviews because the things didn't work and/or broke immediately.

    Lately even trying to research what a good piece of kit is has been hard, because you search for "Best KVM switch" and you get these algorithmically generated lists that just tabulate, you guessed it, the best sellers on Amazon.

    It's not all bad news. I did eventually find a good enough 2 port PS/2, VGA KVM for my retro setup from TRENDnet. If there HDMI/USB KVM is as good, I'd say it's worth a shot. Although it does seem to have some negative reviews on Amazon relating to HDMI handshake issues and being powered entirely over USB not keeping up. I suppose you can always return it if it doesn't work for your needs.

    https://www.trendnet.com/products/4k-hdmi-kvm-switch/2-port-4k-hdmi-kvm-switch-TK-216i

    OrcaRed Raevyn
  • jungleroomxjungleroomx It's not a "weapon art", it's an ANIMATION Registered User regular
    -Loki- wrote: »
    We're not even fully utilizing PCIE4, so PCIE5 coming out already seems kind of redundant.

    At least for gaming, PCIE 4 will likely remain the standard now for the foreseeable future for the sample fact that the PS5 and XSX use it.

    I wasn't expecting DDR5 and PCIE5 on my next PC, but it looks like that will be what I'm going for.

  • Trajan45Trajan45 Registered User regular
    hrm, seems I'm going to have to send my new machine back to Maingear. Today my video card just stopped outputting anything. Nothing special, just had Firefox and Discord open in Windows, and then boom no signal. Tried unplugging the cable from the card and the TV then re-plugging, no dice. Booted up my PS4, made sure the cable worked, then moved it over to the PC, no dice. Tried moving the cable that worked over to my work Dell monitors, no dice. Tried the DP ports on the 3080 with my DP cable from my work Dell monitor, no dice. Tried unplugging the power cable to the card and unplugging the card itself and re-seatting, no dice.

    I have Argus temp monitor and temps were in the 28C range I believe. The fans on the card weren't even spinning due since it was just Windows, so I'd have to imagine the temp was accurate. Sucks, I just finished playing Control and everything was fine. I got the machine right around Christmas.

    Normally I'd just have them send me a new card, but while working on unplugging the 3080, I noticed the Coolermaster AIO pump was making clicking noises and vibrating. I couldn't hear it when the case was closed up over the normal fan noise, but once in the machine it was quite audible. Putting my finger on the pump dampened the noise a bit. Replacing the AIO is more than I want to do in my tiny apartment. If I had my old house, clear of cat hair and plenty of table space, I'd have given it a shot.

    Sucks, the whole point of paying double what it would have cost me to build was supposed to be better build quality and not having issues like this. But then, it's not Maingears fault if a Founders 3080 dies or the coolmaster AIO is a lemon.

    Is there anything I might not be thinking of to check? We reset the CMOS, but it didn't make a difference. The motherboard is a ASUS crosshair viii hero and has boot codes, which told us it was booting just fine. Kind of wish motherboards had the old VGA or some video output to test against. Though I have a 1070 I could try, that doesn't fix the AIO issue.

    Origin ID\ Steam ID: Warder45
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