I said "if they want to upgrade primarily for games" and specifically in the context of someone who "isn't already using a Zen3".
The 5800X3D isn't a cheap CPU, but as I said, as an upgrade it costs less than the AM5 motherboard and DDR5 RAM alone. If someone has an existing Zen1 or Zen2 setup, and they want more CPU for games then the X3D is a very strong choice. Lotta people bought into the B450/3600 combo a couple of years ago. Those people will get good bang for their buck with one.
I don't disagree with any of that, but in a world where many games are GPU bound, it's worth noting that 5700X ($249) is $170 less than the X3D ($419) and will get you similar performance in GPU-bound games. And perhaps an even better value proposition is the 5900X ($399), which also gets you similar performance, four more cores, and costs $20 less.
The 5800X3D has amazing performance in some gaming scenarios: in particular, 1080P and a few highly competitive titles where really, really high frame rates can reduce input lag. But... if you game at 1440P or 4K, or you don't play CS:GO, or you want to save some money, or you want more than eight cores, or you want to overclock, then virtually any other 5X00 Zen3 chip will get you many years of excellent gaming performance while being a better value proposition than the 3D.
Anyone with the Gamers Nexus mouse mat here? Tempted to pick one up. My current mouse mat slips around the desk and curls up quite easily requiring frequent ironing. It's trash but was cheap so expected. Need a good 90cm by 30-36cm mat that won't shift around.
I have the blue (PC components) and red mouse mat for a second desk - it’s more of a keyboard and mouse deskcover. IMO it feels premium and hasn’t been worn after 1/2 years of constant use.
I said "if they want to upgrade primarily for games" and specifically in the context of someone who "isn't already using a Zen3".
The 5800X3D isn't a cheap CPU, but as I said, as an upgrade it costs less than the AM5 motherboard and DDR5 RAM alone. If someone has an existing Zen1 or Zen2 setup, and they want more CPU for games then the X3D is a very strong choice. Lotta people bought into the B450/3600 combo a couple of years ago. Those people will get good bang for their buck with one.
I don't disagree with any of that, but in a world where many games are GPU bound, it's worth noting that 5700X ($249) is $170 less than the X3D ($419) and will get you similar performance in GPU-bound games. And perhaps an even better value proposition is the 5900X ($399), which also gets you similar performance, four more cores, and costs $20 less.
The 5800X3D has amazing performance in some gaming scenarios: in particular, 1080P and a few highly competitive titles where really, really high frame rates can reduce input lag. But... if you game at 1440P or 4K, or you don't play CS:GO, or you want to save some money, or you want more than eight cores, or you want to overclock, then virtually any other 5X00 Zen3 chip will get you many years of excellent gaming performance while being a better value proposition than the 3D.
Looking at benchmarks there is still a significant uplift on 1440p. But it is definitely game dependant. I game on a [email protected] monitor and don't do any productivity work on my desktop. I just spent the day looking through 7700x reviews and the 5800x3D still comes out ahead in a lot of cases for 1440p.
It seems to be the best VR cpu currently as well, the minimum frame average is a lot higher according to a lot of benchmarks.
I don't think you can really go wrong at the moment though with a 5800x, 5800x3d or 5900x though, especially at the reduced prices. The 7000 series though doesn't really appear to be that big of an uplift for gaming.
I have the blue (PC components) and red mouse mat for a second desk - it’s more of a keyboard and mouse deskcover. IMO it feels premium and hasn’t been worn after 1/2 years of constant use.
Cool. I'll pick one up when finances improve. Whenever that is.
Biggest thing I noticed is more L2 cache per SM compared to Ampere
Note: I am employed by NVIDIA
+8
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Between Ray Tracing and DLSS 3, I might end up going with Nvidia. It's going to be hard for AMD to match this with the 7000 series. If frame interpolation is as good as the early tests make it look, it's going to be a total paradigm shift.
It broke my heart selling off my AMD shares this year but I did it before it started falling, and I need the liquid savings to prepare for changing jobs next years. I won big these past three years.
That_GuyI don't wanna be that guyRegistered Userregular
Unless you have a high end server grade UPS, it's generally not worth it to replace the batteries in a little 550va. It's better to just replace the whole thing.
Unless you have a high end server grade UPS, it's generally not worth it to replace the batteries in a little 550va. It's better to just replace the whole thing.
Really? I've done it before (not for that exact model, it was Cyberpower 850VA which...is a lot more, in retrospect); well-regarded replacement batteries were basically 20 to 30% the price of the whole unit.
(Granted, it's plugged into my LG C1, an Xbox Series X and some other usual A/V electronics, and not a hospital life support or something. And I almost never lose power, it's probably just to keep my modem and router up for a minute or two if I do lose power.)
I also wasn't looking a crystal growth on the contacts either...
Unless you have a high end server grade UPS, it's generally not worth it to replace the batteries in a little 550va. It's better to just replace the whole thing.
If you like throwing money away. A replacement battery is 1/5 to 1/4 the cost of a new UPS.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Unless you have a high end server grade UPS, it's generally not worth it to replace the batteries in a little 550va. It's better to just replace the whole thing.
If you like throwing money away. A replacement battery is 1/5 to 1/4 the cost of a new UPS.
The circuitry that conditions the power and detects surges doesn't last forever. Those cheap UPSs generally don't get top tier capacitors, resistors or diodes. After years of use, things degrade and won't protect your equipment as effectively. 5-8 years is generally as long as you want to push it. After that, you really should replace the whole thing.
If you're interested, I have some old 550va UPSs floating around my office. I can tear one apart and show you want goes bad on them.
This was a good investment but I cannot fucking remember when I bought it. The desktOP it powers has been thesius'd to a large degree and.....*checks email*
Oh fuck me, i waited 8 years to pop the fucker open
Edit: i bought this unit at a circuit city that is now a hotel
Unless you have a high end server grade UPS, it's generally not worth it to replace the batteries in a little 550va. It's better to just replace the whole thing.
If you like throwing money away. A replacement battery is 1/5 to 1/4 the cost of a new UPS.
The circuitry that conditions the power and detects surges doesn't last forever. Those cheap UPSs generally don't get top tier capacitors, resistors or diodes. After years of use, things degrade and won't protect your equipment as effectively. 5-8 years is generally as long as you want to push it. After that, you really should replace the whole thing.
If you're interested, I have some old 550va UPSs floating around my office. I can tear one apart and show you want goes bad on them.
And the batteries should be replaced about every 2-3 years even if they don't go bad (internal short, swelling, outgassing) so you still should be changing batteries more often than you need to replace the whole unit. You aren't wrong that the units also have a lifespan or can fail themselves, but that doesn't square with your original statement of always throw the whole thing away instead of replacing the batteries.
SiliconStew on
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
Only issue is my Gigabyte b450 Aorus M Motherboard didn’t seem to come with a cable, or at least I can’t find it.
I’d like to order the cable/s from the same site I’m ordering the ssd from in the same purchase, they have an enormous list though and I have no idea what I need. Apparently a data cable and a power cable? Which would people recommend I get, here’s the site list of what they have
Only issue is my Gigabyte b450 Aorus M Motherboard didn’t seem to come with a cable, or at least I can’t find it.
I’d like to order the cable/s from the same site I’m ordering the ssd from in the same purchase, they have an enormous list though and I have no idea what I need. Apparently a data cable and a power cable? Which would people recommend I get, here’s the site list of what they have
The sata cable itself makes zero difference other than the right angle connector might work better in your case than the straight connector. Just buy the cheapest one that's 30cm long. Spending more than $5-7 dollars on a single sata cable is insanity. You can buy 3-5 packs of cables from Amazon for under $10.
Your power supply already has the power cable you need. Just find the sata power connector in the bundle of cables and plug it into the drive.
Spend a few minutes cleanly routing the power and sata cable through your case. Your case should have cutouts to route the sata cable from the motherboard to where ever the drive is secured. Same with the power cable.
jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
"cleanly routing"
So like, stuffing it behind the motherboard tray but making it look good from the outside?
+19
Idx86Long days and pleasant nights.Registered Userregular
Yeah sex is great, but nothing beats the feeling I have right now of seeing my first ever PC build post on its initial startup.
LOTS to do (including cable management which i'm awful at) but I am so fucking filled with adrenaline after seeing that BIOS screen pop up. Trying to work on it in between calls and meetings at my home office.
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
Should I update the BIOS and stuff before I install Windows or after I have everything on that side stood up?
Unless there's a bios bug or required update (other hardware is newer than the motherboard and needs an update for support) that prevents the Windows install/boot, it's usually less effort to just download and run a bios update inside Windows. It'll apply on the reboot.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
+2
jungleroomxIt's never too many graves, it's always not enough shovelsRegistered Userregular
I can't decide if its more likely he looks at the other slot and whimpers "It's still good, it's still good." like Homer losing his cooked pig or if he awkwardly tries to piece it back together like Chunk in the Goonies gluing the statue of David's penis back on upside down.
Just remember that half the people you meet are below average intelligence.
+1
Idx86Long days and pleasant nights.Registered Userregular
Okay, so I've hit a bit of a snag. I connected the rest of the control panel headers, set up the rest of the fans and that's it. Now my PC turns on for a second, restarts, and then starts back up again. I get a red, then yellow light on my Mobo and then it just sits there. I am trying to double check connections to make sure everything is in the right place. I reseated my GPU and RAM just in case. It actually did post again once into BIOS, but then when i did a restart it did the same weird cycle.
Only thing I can think of is that I changed the DRAM speed from auto (it was picking up 2100 mhz on the mobo) and forced it to go to 3200 mhz since that's what the actual speed is. Would that cause an issue?
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
0
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
Okay, so I've hit a bit of a snag. I connected the rest of the control panel headers, set up the rest of the fans and that's it. Now my PC turns on for a second, restarts, and then starts back up again. I get a red, then yellow light on my Mobo and then it just sits there. I am trying to double check connections to make sure everything is in the right place. I reseated my GPU and RAM just in case. It actually did post again once into BIOS, but then when i did a restart it did the same weird cycle.
Only thing I can think of is that I changed the DRAM speed from auto (it was picking up 2100 mhz on the mobo) and forced it to go to 3200 mhz since that's what the actual speed is. Would that cause an issue?
From the way you talk about it, I'm guessing you just manually are trying to set your DRAM settings and just changed the clock speed, instead of setting an "XMP" profile that auto adjusts things based on what your memory itself says is the right settings.
The symptom you describe is easily one of not POSTing due to failing to run at memory settings you used, which then eventually cycles into it with stock settings so you can try again and such.
Make sure you use the XMP cause there are the timings and voltage settings that go with it, and if you don't know what I'm talking about then you really should be using the "ez mode" RAM settings. If you can't find anything "XMP" or such that easily is set in your BIOS then share your exact motherboard and we could look up the specifics.
+3
Idx86Long days and pleasant nights.Registered Userregular
edited October 2022
I finally got it to Post after reseating the memory a couple different ways, switched it back to Auto and now it boots just fine again.
Yeah, I don't see anything about XMP in the BIOS but I'm also really tired and am just happy to get back to where I was when I put things down a few hours ago. I am using an ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A motherboard.
Edit: Googled some stuff in bed and think I know where to look tomorrow. So much for installing Windows tonight. 😂
Idx86 on
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
0
-Loki-Don't pee in my mouth and tell me it's raining.Registered Userregular
edited October 2022
What motherboard?
My bios had two huge 'XMP-1' and 'XMP-2' buttons right in your face on the bios quick setup screen. Enabling the first set my RAM to its advertised frequency.
edit - ah, I need to keep reading. yeah, I'm using an MSI motherboard.
I finally got it to Post after reseating the memory a couple different ways, switched it back to Auto and now it boots just fine again.
Yeah, I don't see anything about XMP in the BIOS but I'm also really tired and am just happy to get back to where I was when I put things down a few hours ago. I am using an ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A motherboard.
Edit: Googled some stuff in bed and think I know where to look tomorrow. So much for installing Windows tonight. 😂
Reminder that dual channel RAM has double speed, so the speed you want in BIOS is 1600MHz; not 3200. Granted, that changes in every single BIOS. Just pointing out it's possible you mistakenly set the speed too high.
And if XMP is turned on, you can use Task Manager (Ctrl + Shift +Esc) to view memory speed. Click the "More Details" down arrow and go to the Performance tab.
Posts
I don't disagree with any of that, but in a world where many games are GPU bound, it's worth noting that 5700X ($249) is $170 less than the X3D ($419) and will get you similar performance in GPU-bound games. And perhaps an even better value proposition is the 5900X ($399), which also gets you similar performance, four more cores, and costs $20 less.
The 5800X3D has amazing performance in some gaming scenarios: in particular, 1080P and a few highly competitive titles where really, really high frame rates can reduce input lag. But... if you game at 1440P or 4K, or you don't play CS:GO, or you want to save some money, or you want more than eight cores, or you want to overclock, then virtually any other 5X00 Zen3 chip will get you many years of excellent gaming performance while being a better value proposition than the 3D.
I have the blue (PC components) and red mouse mat for a second desk - it’s more of a keyboard and mouse deskcover. IMO it feels premium and hasn’t been worn after 1/2 years of constant use.
Spinny, unless they found a way to make flash rotate 5400 times per minute just to confuse people 😄
Dear God that would be fantastic
Looking at benchmarks there is still a significant uplift on 1440p. But it is definitely game dependant. I game on a [email protected] monitor and don't do any productivity work on my desktop. I just spent the day looking through 7700x reviews and the 5800x3D still comes out ahead in a lot of cases for 1440p.
It seems to be the best VR cpu currently as well, the minimum frame average is a lot higher according to a lot of benchmarks.
I don't think you can really go wrong at the moment though with a 5800x, 5800x3d or 5900x though, especially at the reduced prices. The 7000 series though doesn't really appear to be that big of an uplift for gaming.
guru3d 7700 review - 1440p benchmarks
EDIT: My DCS is so much smoother, but this was coming from a 3700x.
Cool. I'll pick one up when finances improve. Whenever that is.
Biggest thing I noticed is more L2 cache per SM compared to Ampere
Note: I am employed by NVIDIA
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE650G1/dp/B005GZRUZW
I in fact had a working battery i bought but forgot to install it.
Now the battery leads look funky, as does the cables going to the battery.
I might be fucked
Edit: crystal growth damaged the casing of the white wire. Maybe inside clip of white wire
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
Really? I've done it before (not for that exact model, it was Cyberpower 850VA which...is a lot more, in retrospect); well-regarded replacement batteries were basically 20 to 30% the price of the whole unit.
(Granted, it's plugged into my LG C1, an Xbox Series X and some other usual A/V electronics, and not a hospital life support or something. And I almost never lose power, it's probably just to keep my modem and router up for a minute or two if I do lose power.)
I also wasn't looking a crystal growth on the contacts either...
If you like throwing money away. A replacement battery is 1/5 to 1/4 the cost of a new UPS.
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
The circuitry that conditions the power and detects surges doesn't last forever. Those cheap UPSs generally don't get top tier capacitors, resistors or diodes. After years of use, things degrade and won't protect your equipment as effectively. 5-8 years is generally as long as you want to push it. After that, you really should replace the whole thing.
If you're interested, I have some old 550va UPSs floating around my office. I can tear one apart and show you want goes bad on them.
This was a good investment but I cannot fucking remember when I bought it. The desktOP it powers has been thesius'd to a large degree and.....*checks email*
Oh fuck me, i waited 8 years to pop the fucker open
Edit: i bought this unit at a circuit city that is now a hotel
http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=16534
And the batteries should be replaced about every 2-3 years even if they don't go bad (internal short, swelling, outgassing) so you still should be changing batteries more often than you need to replace the whole unit. You aren't wrong that the units also have a lifespan or can fail themselves, but that doesn't square with your original statement of always throw the whole thing away instead of replacing the batteries.
https://www.pccasegear.com/products/50721/samsung-870-qvo-2-5in-sata-ssd-2tb
Only issue is my Gigabyte b450 Aorus M Motherboard didn’t seem to come with a cable, or at least I can’t find it.
I’d like to order the cable/s from the same site I’m ordering the ssd from in the same purchase, they have an enormous list though and I have no idea what I need. Apparently a data cable and a power cable? Which would people recommend I get, here’s the site list of what they have
https://www.pccasegear.com/category/19_104/cables/sata-cables
The sata cable itself makes zero difference other than the right angle connector might work better in your case than the straight connector. Just buy the cheapest one that's 30cm long. Spending more than $5-7 dollars on a single sata cable is insanity. You can buy 3-5 packs of cables from Amazon for under $10.
Your power supply already has the power cable you need. Just find the sata power connector in the bundle of cables and plug it into the drive.
Spend a few minutes cleanly routing the power and sata cable through your case. Your case should have cutouts to route the sata cable from the motherboard to where ever the drive is secured. Same with the power cable.
So like, stuffing it behind the motherboard tray but making it look good from the outside?
LOTS to do (including cable management which i'm awful at) but I am so fucking filled with adrenaline after seeing that BIOS screen pop up. Trying to work on it in between calls and meetings at my home office.
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
Unless there's a bios bug or required update (other hardware is newer than the motherboard and needs an update for support) that prevents the Windows install/boot, it's usually less effort to just download and run a bios update inside Windows. It'll apply on the reboot.
https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/xvcnt4/i_felt_that_in_my_stomach/
Ouch
Blizzard: Pailryder#1101
GoG: https://www.gog.com/u/pailryder
I can't decide if its more likely he looks at the other slot and whimpers "It's still good, it's still good." like Homer losing his cooked pig or if he awkwardly tries to piece it back together like Chunk in the Goonies gluing the statue of David's penis back on upside down.
Only thing I can think of is that I changed the DRAM speed from auto (it was picking up 2100 mhz on the mobo) and forced it to go to 3200 mhz since that's what the actual speed is. Would that cause an issue?
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
Videos like this are what scared me away from PC building for so long.
From the way you talk about it, I'm guessing you just manually are trying to set your DRAM settings and just changed the clock speed, instead of setting an "XMP" profile that auto adjusts things based on what your memory itself says is the right settings.
The symptom you describe is easily one of not POSTing due to failing to run at memory settings you used, which then eventually cycles into it with stock settings so you can try again and such.
Make sure you use the XMP cause there are the timings and voltage settings that go with it, and if you don't know what I'm talking about then you really should be using the "ez mode" RAM settings. If you can't find anything "XMP" or such that easily is set in your BIOS then share your exact motherboard and we could look up the specifics.
Yeah, I don't see anything about XMP in the BIOS but I'm also really tired and am just happy to get back to where I was when I put things down a few hours ago. I am using an ASUS ROG Strix Z690-A motherboard.
Edit: Googled some stuff in bed and think I know where to look tomorrow. So much for installing Windows tonight. 😂
2008, 2012, 2014 D&D "Rare With No Sauce" League Fantasy Football Champion!
My bios had two huge 'XMP-1' and 'XMP-2' buttons right in your face on the bios quick setup screen. Enabling the first set my RAM to its advertised frequency.
edit - ah, I need to keep reading. yeah, I'm using an MSI motherboard.
Reminder that dual channel RAM has double speed, so the speed you want in BIOS is 1600MHz; not 3200. Granted, that changes in every single BIOS. Just pointing out it's possible you mistakenly set the speed too high.
And if XMP is turned on, you can use Task Manager (Ctrl + Shift +Esc) to view memory speed. Click the "More Details" down arrow and go to the Performance tab.