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For those who don't know, forums.penny-arcade.com will be closing soon. However, we're doing the same kind of stuff over at coin-return.org with (almost) all the same faces! Please do feel welcome to
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For those who don't know, forums.penny-arcade.com will be closing soon. However, we're doing the same kind of stuff over at coin-return.org with (almost) all the same faces! Please do feel welcome to
join us.
For those who don't know, forums.penny-arcade.com will be closing soon. However, we're doing the same kind of stuff over at coin-return.org with (almost) all the same faces! Please do feel welcome to
join us.
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3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy
3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy
Also, I built the Aegrit and it's pretty neat. I rarely use this kind of weapon so I dunno how it compares to others, but it's been fun so far.
Oh, and I've been using my old speedy crit dagger zaw, and modded it up to be even faster and crittier then before. I'm going to bed now, but if I remember I'll post a screenshot of it after work tomorrow
I figured out the reason I had such a hard time panel lining the HG was I didn't click in the nib all the way, so I was getting almost no flow.
With the FM, I was able to do a lot of panel lining on the sprues, but I'm also doing quite a bit during assembly, and let me tell you, this is the way to do it. There are places you just can't reach once it's together.
The clear plastic parts are still a little nerve wracking, I've got stress marks on the chest piece even though I was extra careful. You can't tell from 2 feet away but in hand you can see them. Oh well.
Oof.
To conclude, 55 rolls on event banner gave me 2x 6* and 2x 5*, which seems to be a good point to stop rolling for now, as my limited pity counter is reseted now anyway.
⬜🟩🟩🟨⬜
⬜🟩🟩🟨🟩
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
PARLE
LARGE
It's definitely a longer process, doing 3 operations instead of 1. But it leaves a much better finish, which is essential for tight parts. Sometimes I have to re-find where I clipped things, though, because it can be hard to notice them after being removed from the runner.
My friend who does painting and gluing and all sorts of additional steps also adds in a step where she half-cuts the pins that hold pieces together, so that she can easily dry-fit them and then get them separated again to glue them together and work on removing seam lines and other stuff.
I also didn't watch the whole thing because ... my EYES are BlEeDiNg.
Playstation: Dipuc4Life
Warframe_Switch IGN: ONVEBAL
-Antje Jackelén, Archbishop of the Church of Sweden
As far as panel lining goes, do people paint actual seams post-assembly at all? Is that even recommended?
Depends if they've learned their lessons about multiplicative scaling.
3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy
3DS: 0473-8507-2652
Switch: SW-5185-4991-5118
PSN: AbEntropy
Maybe I am the hard carry though 🤔
As long as it isn’t worn down, a pair of nail clippers are fantastic for chipping away at the rest of a nub, taking off small pieces t a time if that’s what you feel more comfortable with until you get down flush or to where you can sand the rest off.
I forget what brand they were, but years back I even got a set of sprue cutters from my hobby shop that are literally just a set of nail clippers where they tweaked the design of the blades so they’re angled in a way that lets you swoop them into tight spots on a runner
I think people who do nice paint and detailing jobs tend to work in subassemblies so they can get to the hard to reach areas. That and so they can fill in and smooth away seam lines before they paint.
I don't panel line obvious seams because the ink will tend to run and go places you don't want it to. But if the pieces look like they are meant to leave a panel line (like a thinner piece plugging into a larger piece and leaving a chamfer), I'll go for it.
It depends on the seam. If it's obviously meant not to have a seam there, I won't panel line it. If I think either the seam would add a good line to the kit, or they have a recessed edge so the joint has a groove, then I panel line it. Please note that I only use the fine tipped pens and not the Tamiya panel lining solution, because the Tamiya panel liner is basically a thinned out oil paint, and the thinner can attack ABS plastic. And it's flowing properties means it can flow into joints, so I would never use it on a seam unless it's on a painted kit.
If you have leftover white marks after cleanup, press them firmly with a fingernail. It will help resolve some of the surface stresses that are causing the white marks. Not great on the hard clear plastic, but works a treat on their normal ABS and PS parts.
I should spend this
Survival, though? Outside of getting lucky and rolling with a loot frame, there's not really a trick for that. It's get lucky with your weapons/decrees/teammates or it's an early bail.
PSN: ShogunGunshow
Origin: ShogunGunshow
Never in a million years did I think Roy’s coaching return would be with the Islanders.
every_warframe_boss.txt
I actually think ambulas is one of the worst, so slow waiting for the stupid dropship
"Don't talk to me or my daughter ever again."
I remember the original Jackel fight not involving any hacking, just shooting the legs then the body. Are you thinking of the Razorback?
YEs! man, I had been reading through patch notes for the last hour, thank you. Not sure why I get them mixed up so often.